WO2018228847A1 - Composition de coiffure contenant un extrait de fleur de cymbidium grandiflorum - Google Patents

Composition de coiffure contenant un extrait de fleur de cymbidium grandiflorum Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018228847A1
WO2018228847A1 PCT/EP2018/064658 EP2018064658W WO2018228847A1 WO 2018228847 A1 WO2018228847 A1 WO 2018228847A1 EP 2018064658 W EP2018064658 W EP 2018064658W WO 2018228847 A1 WO2018228847 A1 WO 2018228847A1
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composition
weight
composition according
hair
amount
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PCT/EP2018/064658
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English (en)
Inventor
Mi CAO
Xiaoping Liu
Shuiping WU
Fan Wang
Zhaoxia Bao
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2018228847A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018228847A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition, especially a hair styling composition comprising Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract, at least one fixing polymer or a combination of at least one fixing polymer and at least one film-forming polymer, and at least one fatty alcohol.
  • the cosmetic composition leads to a very satisfying styling of the hair together with an improvement of the physical-optical properties of hair, especially referring to moisture, without leaving hair with an oily or coated appearance.
  • the invention also relates to use of the cosmetic composition.
  • Hair consists of a hair shaft and a hair root.
  • the hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair.
  • the hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed.
  • the hair root sticks in the skin and is the living part of the hair.
  • the hair shaft is composed of three layers: the central part, which is called hair marrow
  • marrow also called cortex
  • cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.
  • the horny layer being the external sheath of the hair, and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.
  • Cymbidium Grandiflorum is also called Cymbidium hookerianum belonging to the botanical family of Orchidaceae. Orchids are well known for their moisturizing properties in relation to skin, as well as having activities of scavenging free radicals and influencing skin immunity. Some species, like the pink orchid, are rich in minerals, especially those which are important for the skin. In addition, polysaccharides and sugars are present, helping in regulating the moisture of the skin. Flower extracts can be obtained from the Cymbidium hookerianum Rchb.f. species. After a specific extraction and separation process the resulting extract is rich in saponins. These saponins can inhibit hyaluronidase activity, thus increasing the content of hyaluronic acid in the skin. The increase in hyaluronic acid leads to a moisturizing effect, too.
  • Moisturizing hair is connected with the idea of delivering water and/or natural oils to hair.
  • the outmost structure of hair is the cuticula, which is arranged in form of shingles. If the cuticula is intact and compact, for example water and natural moisturizing factors cannot escape from the cortex of hair. The hair looks healthy and resembles hair in a freshly grown condition. If the cuticula is not intact for various reasons, water and natural moisturizing factors can escape from the cortex causing a dry condition of hair. In order to moisturize hair water binding components and natural oils can be delivered to hair helping to restore the cuticula and provide the cortex with water binding components. If the cuticula is restored, water and natural moisturizing factors can be inclosed again.
  • WO 2009/1 17626 A2 describes color cosmetics using naturally derived materials.
  • a finishing powder contains a Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract.
  • the document is silent on specific effects related to the extract. No detailed effects of the extract are disclosed.
  • FR 3016126 A1 describes the use of an extract of Artemia Salina to protect the skin against the influence and damage of cold temperatures.
  • a creme composition for men contains Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract. No effects of the Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract are disclosed.
  • WO 2006/044193 A2 describes the synthesis of rheology modifiers/hair styling resins for hair care compositions.
  • An example of a conditioning shampoo discloses the use of a Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract.
  • WO 2006/044193 A2 is directed to polymers, no effect of the Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract is mentioned.
  • one aim of hair care is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a prolonged period of time and, in the case of loss of the natural state, to restore it.
  • natural healthy hair has a silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel.
  • the components providing care contribute in restoring natural healthy hair, at least partially.
  • the aim of the present invention is to make available hair care compositions, especially styling compositions, which help to restore the natural condition of hair thus providing healthy looking hair which is no longer dry or rough.
  • the components contributing to the restoration of the natural condition of hair should be natural substances supporting a natural condition of hair.
  • the scalp should be nourished thereby influencing the condition of the scalp but also the condition of the freshly grown hair in positive manner.
  • Inventors of the present invention found out that a hair styling composition containing Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract in a concentration of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair and scalp.
  • the present invention provides a hair styling composition, comprising
  • the composition comprises preferably 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight, morepreferably 0.1 to 6.0 % by weight, even more preferably 0.5-4.0 % by weight, or most preferably 0.5-2.0 % by weight of a Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can optionally comprise at least one auxiliary component, selected from cationic polymers, pearlescent agents, colorants and mixtures thereof.
  • the auxiliary components are further described in the part of "detailed description of the invention".
  • the at least one auxiliary component is selected from silicones, further conditioning components, emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100% by weight.
  • compositions of the present invention are free from specific fatty acid dialkylamides and fatty dialkanolamides, namely cocamide mea and cocamide dea, free from specific alkanolamines, namely mea, dea and tea, and free from monoalkylamines and trialkylamines and salts thereof.
  • These substances might be regarded as substances leading to nitrosamines.
  • Nitrosamines are known to be involved in causing cancer. In the sense of the present invention "free from” means less than 0.1 %, preferably less than 0.01 %, and more preferably 0 % by weight of the total composition.
  • compositions of the invention are in form of emulsions, especially oil-in-water emulsions.
  • the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention in styling and caring hair, especially to improve the look of the hair referring to moisture and shine.
  • the use of the compositions of the present invention provides a strong hold of the styled hair without generating it stiff hair. The styled hair remains elastic.
  • the present invention relates to use of Cymbidium
  • the styling composition of the present invention leads to significantly improved qualities of the hair referring to moisture and shine together with good hold of the styled hair, indicated by the parameters of hardness and curl retention, without leaving the hair stiff, illustrated by the parameter of elasticity.
  • Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extracts are obtained from the flowers of orchids by extraction and separation processes. Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extracts are also commercially available. For instance, Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract can be purchased from Kunming Chin-herb Biotech.
  • At least one fixing polymer can be contained in the compositions of the invention.
  • Fixing polymers are able to build up very small bridges between single hairs or hair tresses thereby fixing the hair.
  • Fixing polymers are known in prior art. They can be classified as anionic, nonionic and cationic polymers. Fixing polymers can have film-forming properties as well.
  • nonionic fixing polymers According to the invention it is preferred to use nonionic fixing polymers.
  • Nonionic fixing polymers can be homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, N -
  • Vinylformamids or N-vinylcarprolactam Suitable are also copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate or vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidon, vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidon and dimethylaminomethacrylate.
  • specific polysiloxanes can be used as nonionic fixing polymers. According to the present invention, it is preferred to use a copolymer consisting of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate monomers which can be purchased as PVP/VA W-735 from Ashland Specialty Ingredients.
  • the at least one fixing polymer is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the fixing polymers.
  • the content is referring to the total content of fixing polymers in the respective composition.
  • Cationic polymers are suitable film-forming polymers.
  • Cationic polymers are characterized in that they contain nitrogen atoms containing substituents. Dependent on the substituents of the nitrogen atom it can be differentiated between primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amines.
  • These molecules as well as polymers with positively charged primary, secondary or tertiary amine residues due to a suitable pH value can electrostatically interact with negatively charged molecules on the hair surface. Due to this binding the cationic polymers can stay on the hair surface and form a film on the hair. Therefore these molecules can also be addressed as film forming polymers.
  • R2, R3, R 4 are identical or different substituents representing alkyl substituents with 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl substituent.
  • A represents a straight or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxylated alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • X is a suitable anion, for example chloride or methosulfate.
  • Polyquaterium-37 is a substance according to the above mentioned formula and is well preferred according to the present invention. Polyquaternium-37 can be purchased as COSMEDIA CTH from BASF.
  • the at least one film-forming polymer is used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the film- forming polymers.
  • At least one fatty alcohol is contained.
  • Fatty alcohols are primary alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols may be saturated or non-saturated.
  • Preferred fatty alcohols are therein characterized that they contain 14 to 20 carbon atoms. More preferred is the use of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/ or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the at least one fatty alcohol is used preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • additional conditioning components can be optionally comprised in the composition.
  • Silicones, especially dimethicones are a preferable class of hair care components.
  • Hair styling compositions according to the present invention can preferably contain dimethicones.
  • Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicon atoms connected via oxygen atoms.
  • the functional unit consisting of silicon atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane.
  • siloxane The functional unit consisting of silicon atom and oxygen atom.
  • Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length accounts for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values.
  • Dimethicones, or silicone fluids, as they are also called, can be purchased having varying values of viscosity. Commercial products have a viscosity value between 1 centistokes (est) and 1 ,000,000 est.
  • the lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications.
  • the products having 100 - 500 est are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products.
  • the silicones are preferably dimethicones having viscosity values in the range of 100 to 2,000,000 cSt. They are available as Baysilone M Dimethicone (100 - 2,000,000 cSt,), CB-50M (-500,000 cSt at
  • the dimethicones are preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 7.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.75% to 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably 1 .0 to 4.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the dimethicones.
  • the given contents are referring to the total content of silicones.
  • additional components providing an additional conditioning effect to the hair supporting especially the already provided conditioning effect of Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract.
  • These components can preferably be selected from Paraffinum Liquidum, PEG 90M + silica, and hydrogenated polydecene. Each of these components can be used alone or in combination with each other.
  • Paraffinum Liquidum consists of hydrocarbon molecules which are saturated, unbranched or branched. They can be obtained synthetically or refined from petroleum. For example, Paraffinum Liquidum can be obtained from H & R Chem Pharm with the trade name Pionier 2076.
  • Paraffinum Liquidum can be used in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • PEG 90M + silica is also advantageously contained in the compositions according to the present invention.
  • the abbreviation PEG stands for polyethylene glycols, consisting of numerous molecules of ethylene oxide.
  • 90M indicates that on average 90,000 molecules of ethylene oxide are contained.
  • M is the abbreviation for thousand.
  • polyethylene glycols consisting of from about 1000 to about 500M ethylene oxide can be used according to the present invention.
  • Said polyethylene glycols can be used in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Hydrogenated polydecene can be obtained from Exxon Mobil Corporation under the trade name SPECTRASYN 4.
  • Hydrogenated polydecene can be used in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 1 .0 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair styling compositions of the present invention preferably contain humectants.
  • Humectants are hygroscopic substances which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function.
  • Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey.
  • Preferred humectants are lactic acid and propylene glycol.
  • One or more humectants can be used according to the present invention.
  • humectants are present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the one or more humectant(s) is/are used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 12.5 % by weight, more preferably 1 .0 to 10 % by weight, still more preferably 1 .5 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the humectant.
  • the compositions can comprise preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • preservatives which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • Other preservatives can also be used, for example Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone. These preservatives can be used alone or in combination or in combination with the above mentioned preferred preservatives.
  • the preferred preservatives can be used alone or in combination.
  • the total amount of preservative, referring as well to one single preservative as to a combination of preservatives, is from 0.01 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.
  • the hair styling composition can contain at least one emulsifier.
  • emulsifiers are substances which are stabilizing emulsions. They can be classified as ionic and non-ionic emulsifiers, with the last ones being preferred. According to the present invention especially preferred are sorbitans which are esterified with fatty acids and ethoxylated.
  • Polysorbate 60 is an example of this class of emulsifiers. Polysorbate 60 can be obtained from Croda Chemical Co., Ltd with the trade name TWEEN 60 LQ (SG).
  • the at least one emulsifier is used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the emulsifiers.
  • antioxidants can be used in the hair styling compositions.
  • antioxidants are molecules which prevent other molecules from being oxidized. Oxidation processes can release free radicals which are damaging or destroying other molecules. If these other molecules are part of living cells these cells can be damaged. There are several molecules which are able to function as radical scavenger. These molecules are also called antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants can be of natural origin, for example vitamin C, gluthathione, lipoic acid, carotenes, vitamin E and coenzyme Q, or of synthetic origin, for example butylhydroanisol (BHA), butylhydroxytoluol (BHT) and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl-hydroxyhydrocinnamate. According to the invention, it is preferred to use antioxidants of synthetic origin.
  • the at least one antioxidant is used in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.07 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the antioxidants.
  • composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair styling composition.
  • the hair styling compositions can be prepared as pump creams or pump sprays.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.
  • compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are preferably produced with the following procedure (Table 1 shows the detailed composition of the examples, and table 3 shows the corresponding trade names and INCI names of the components):
  • compositions comprising Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract at different concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 4.0 % by weight (Examples 1 -5) are prepared as samples of the present invention, and as well as a comparative sample (Comparative Example), which does not comprise any Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract at all. Respective test samples are filled in syringes, not revealing any details of the composition therein. Depending on the length of the hair, the sample use amount will be 3-5 ml.
  • Subject's hair is evaluated again after four hours in normal condition. Following attributes are evaluated in dry hair: stiffness, elastic, curl retention, volume, no frizz, shine and dusty/flake (light and soft).
  • the evaluation is done based on a 10-point system, "1 point” corresponds to "bad", and "10 points” corresponds to "good”.
  • a value of 5 points is a medium value, corresponding to sufficient qualities.
  • the values of 9 to 6 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient.
  • the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.
  • Table 2 The test and evaluation results are shown in Table 2, wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample. All evaluations were done on dry hair.
  • Table 1 Composition of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example:
  • the amounts given refer to amounts of raw materials.
  • the raw materials used are disclosed in table 3.
  • Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract But also at concentrations of 0.5 and 1.0 % by weight of Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract the evaluation is almost as good as for 2.0 % Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract. Generally the concentration range of 0.5 to 2.0 % of Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract in hair styling compositions is well suited in relation to the parameter of hardness. Summing up, with regard to styling qualities as elasticity, curl retention and hardness there is an optimal amount of Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract of around 0.5 to 2.0 % by weight in the composition.
  • compositions containing 0.5 and 1 .0 % by weight lead to good evaluations regarding moisture and shine.
  • the parameter non-greasiness is evaluated equally well for a concentration range of 0.5 to 2.0 % of Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract. An evaluation of 1 means very greasy, an evaluation of 10 means not greasy at all.
  • Cymbidium Grandiflorum flower extract is used best in styling compositions in an amount of 2 % by weight leading to fine styled hair which feels moisturized and has shine.

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Abstract

L'invention porte sur le domaine cosmétique et concerne une composition de coiffure contenant un extrait de fleur de Cymbidium grandiflorum et son utilisation, la composition comprenant un polymère de fixation ou une combinaison d'un polymère de fixation et d'un polymère filmogène, un alcool gras et l'extrait de fleur de Cymbidium grandiflorum. La composition conduit à une amélioration des propriétés physico-optiques des cheveux. La composition de la présente invention améliore l'aspect des cheveux pour ce qui concerne l'humidité et le brillant, et assure également une bonne tenue des cheveux coiffés, sans produire de cheveux raides.
PCT/EP2018/064658 2017-06-16 2018-06-04 Composition de coiffure contenant un extrait de fleur de cymbidium grandiflorum WO2018228847A1 (fr)

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FR3016126A1 (fr) 2014-01-08 2015-07-10 Isp Investments Inc Utilisation cosmetique d'un extrait d'artemia salina pour proteger la peau des stress thermiques

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