WO2018098821A1

WO2018098821A1 - Process for shaping hair using nanoemulsion composition

Info

Publication number: WO2018098821A1
Application number: PCT/CN2016/108438
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xuekun LV; Gautier Deconinck; Wanlu WANG
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-02
Filing date: 2016-12-02
Publication date: 2018-06-07

Abstract

A process for the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, comprises a step of applying to said fibres a reducing composition (A), and a step of applying to said fibres a neutralizing composition (B) in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type, and (iii) one or more fatty substances.

Description

Process for shaping hair using a nanoemulsion composition

The present invention relates to a process for the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibres a reducing composition (A) , and a step of applying to said fibres a neutralizing composition (B) in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type, and (iii) one or more fatty substances.

The invention also deals with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type, and, as fatty substance, (iii) a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.

Many people wish to shape their hair to be different from the original statuses； in particular, people who have curly hair often wish to obtain straight hair and, conversely, those who have straight hair wi sh to have curly hair.

One of the techniques commonly used in order to obtain permanent deformation of the hair involves a two-step procedure, the first step of which is to reduce the disulfide bridges present in the keratinous fibre, using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step) . Once these disulfide bridges have been reduced, the hair is then shaped in the desired manner. This shaping step may involve frizzing the hair or else smoothing it, the result being dependent on the means employed to tension the hair and on the nature of the original keratinous fibres. This tensioning operation may be carried out before, during or after the application of the reducing composition to the hair. Once this first step has been performed, a neutralizing step is necessary in order to recreate the disulfide bridges and to stabilize the shape obtained. This operation is commonly carried out using a neutralizing composition (in a step also called the setting step)

This technique therefore allows the hair to be waved (perming procedure) and/or smoothed (straightening) . The new shape imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as stated above is durable over time and resistant particularly to the action of washing with water or using shampoos, as opposed to simple, conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as setting.

The reducing compositions which can be used for the implementation of the first stage of a permanent shaping generally comprise, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. Among the latter, those commonly used are cysteine and various derivatives thereof, cysteamine and derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, and salts thereof and also esters thereof, especially glyceryl thioglycolate.

The neutralizing compositions required for performing the fixing step are usually compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.

In the context of hair shaping or perming techniques, this permanent shaping operation is generally performed on straight hair so as to obtain more or less pronounced wavy and an increase in the volume and apparent mass of the hair.

However, such a technique is still not entirely satisfactory. This is because, although this technique proves to be very effective in modifying the shape of the hair, it still remains damaging to the hair fibres, which is mainly due to the high contents of reducing agents used in the reducing compositions and to the various, more or less lengthy, leave-in times which may occur during such a method.

This technique can thus bring about, in the long term, a detrimental change in the quality of the hair, resulting in a decline in its cosmetic properties, such as its gloss and its smoothness, and a deterioration in its mechanical properties, more particularly in its mechanical strength, due to swelling of the individual hairs during the rinsing between the reduction stage and the oxidation stage, which may also be reflected by an increase in the porosity of the individual hairs. These disadvantages are observed in particular with thioglycolic acid, which is generally used in a basic medium at pH values of between 8.5 and 9.5.

Moreover, if the technique of permanent shaping of the hair described previously is applied to hair that has undergone a prior artificial coloration, it usually leads to degradation or stripping of this artificial coloration.

Similarly, if a dyeing composition is applied to permanent-waved hair according to the technique described previously, the colour obtained is very different from the colour normally obtained on non-permanent-waved natural hair.

Therefore there is a real need to employ methods for the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres, more particularly human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, which do not exhibit the set of disadvantages described above, that is to say which make it possible to shape efficiently keratinous fibres, meaning in a lasting way, while conferring satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially smoothness.

In other words, there is a real need to provide a method for the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres which are able to improve the hair conditioning.

In particular, one of the goals of the present invention is to enhance conditioning during a process for shaping keratinous fibres.

The Applicant has discovered that it is possible to achieve the desired properties by employing a method for the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres, more particularly human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous fibres, a reducing composition, and a neutralizing composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type, and (iii) one or more fatty substances.

Indeed the use of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion as previously defined is able to provide good cosmetic properties on keratinous fibres that have been permanently shaped with a permanent shaping process.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention has improved cosmetic properties compared with the classic compositions, in particular in terms of a smooth and homogeneous feel, softness, suppleness and detangling.

Due to the small oil drop size, the stability of the composition is improved； a further observation is that the oil deposit on hair is more homogeneous and more persistent upon washing.

The composition in the form of a nanoemulsion also has the advantage of having an average oil drop size by number that can advantageously be less than 200 nm, even better less than or equal to 100 nm.

Furthermore, it is observed that the composition according to the invention is stable over time under conditions of storage at room temperature (25℃) or at temperatures less than or equal to 45℃, for a number of days after their manufacture, i.e. it presents no changes in appearance (no decantation, remains in nanoemulsion form) or in the concentration of the chemical oxidizing agents.

Accordingly, the composition according to the invention has controlled particle size.

The composition according to the invention may be obtained by any type of preparation process, for example a high pressure homogenization process, a phase inversion process (PIT) or a dilution process.

All of these advantages also mean that the treatment process according to the invention makes the hair smooth, both to the touch and visually, gives it softness and affords gentle curl relaxation. These properties are advantageously persistent upon washing.

In addition, the tone of curly or wavy hair is also improved during a method for waving the hair.

Moreover, compared with standard permanent shaping method involving applying a composition not comprising fatty substances, the method according to the present invention enhance the keratinous fibres smoothness.

The present invention likewise relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type, and, as fatty substance, (iii) a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.

Other subjects and characteri stics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

According to the invention, the oxidizing composition is in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion.

According to the present invention, the term "oil-in-water nanoemulsion" denotes a true emulsion, i.e. a thermodynamically unstable dispersion of oil droplets in a continuous aqueous phase.

Nanoemulsions are to be distinguished from microemulsions, which are thermodynamically stable dispersions in the form of micelles of oil-swollen surfactants, and which form spontaneously by simple mixing of the constituents, without substantial input of energy.

The composition according to the invention is presented in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion whose particles have preferably a number-average size less than 200 nm, preferentially comprised between 10 and 150 nm, and better between 20 and 100 nm, and even better between 25 and 90 nm, or even between 25 and 80 nm, even better between 25 and 75 nm.

The number-average size of the particles may be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering. As a machine that may be used for this determination, mention may be made of the Brookhaven brand machine equipped with an SX 200 optical bed (with a 532 nm laser) and a BI 9000 correlator. This machine gives a measurement of the mean diameter by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) , which makes it possible to determine the number-average diameter from the polydispersity factor, which is also measured by the machine.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has very low polydispersity, i.e. the particles have very homogeneous size. The particles present in the composition according to the invention are liquid oil (or oil phase) particles inside the dispersing aqueous phase.

The nanoemulsion may also be characterized by measuring its turbidity according to the NTU method using a 2100P model turbidimeter from the company HACH, at room temperature. The turbidity of the nanoemulsions used in the process of the invention is generally less than 400 NTU units and preferably between 50 and 250 NTU units.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously presented in the form of a transparent to milky fluid, preferably transparent to translucent.

The composition according to the invention may present a viscosity ranging for example 1 to 500 cPoises (1 to 500 mPa. s) , and preferably from 1 to 200 cPoises (1 to 200 mPa. s) , viscosity generally being measured (25℃) with a Rhéomat RM 180 (generally using spindle 1 or 2) .

In the process according to the invention, the reduction in the size of the oil globules makes it possible especially to promote the penetration of the active ingredients of the oxidizing composition into the keratin fibres, for example through the surface layers of the hair (vehicle effect) .

According to the present invention, a reducing composition (A) is used.

In particular, the reducing composition according to the invention is applied in order to reduce the disulfide links in the keratin, with the keratinous fibres being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after said application.

The reducing composition used for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sulfureous reducing agents, preferably chosen from the reducing agents of formula:

H (X’) _q (R’) _r

in which X'represents S or SO₂, q is 0 or 1, r is 1 or 2 or 3, and R'is a linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxyl group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxyl group, a (C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy) carbonyl group, an amido group, a (C₁-C₃₀ alkyl) aminocarbonyl group, a (C₁-C₃₀ acyl) amino group, a monoalkylamino or dialkylamino group, or a monohydroxyamino or dihydroxyamino group, or a salt thereof in combination with a base.

The sulfureous reducing agent (s) used in the reducing composition (A) are chosen from thiol-based and non-thiol-based reducing agents.

As thiol-based reducing agents that may be used in the reducing composition, mention may be made of thiol-based reducing agents chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and N-acetylcysteine, and salts thereof.

As non-thiol-based reducing agents that may be used in the reducing composition (A) , mention may be made especially of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal sulfites.

Preferably, the reducing agent (s) used in the reducing composition (A) are thiol-based reducing agents, in particular thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or salts thereof, and even more preferentially thioglycolic acid.

The reducing agent (s) generally represent from 0.1％to 20％by weight, preferably from 0.5％to 15％by weight and better still from 3％to 10％by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

As indicated previously, the composition used in the process according to the invention comprises (i) one or more oxidizing agents.

Advantageously, the oxidizing agent used in the context of the invention is a chemical oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

The said oxidizing agent (s) are preferably chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates, and most particularly hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent (s) may represent from 0.01％to 20％, preferably from 0.1％to 10％and better still from 2％to 8％by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

As indicated previously, the composition used in the process according to the invention comprises (ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type.

The nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are compounds having the following formula (I) :

R- (O-CH₂-CH₂) _n-OH

Formula (I) in which:

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain ranging from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and

n represents an integer greater than 2, preferably greater than or equal to 4.

Preferably, R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably linear, ranging from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably ranging from 10 to 18.

Preferably, n is an integer less than or equal to 12.

More preferentially, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and in particular from 4 to 12.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants have a melting temperature less than 35℃ and preferentially a melting temperature less than or equal to 30℃, and even more preferentially a melting temperature less than or equal to 25℃, which makes them easier to manipulate during a preparation process, in particular a phase inversion process (PIT) .

According to one embodiment, R represents a linear unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

In accordance with this embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is preferably oleth-10.

According to another embodiment, R represents a linear saturated hydrocarbon-based chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

In accordance with this embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is preferably laureth-4.

The nonionic surfactants (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1％to 20％by weight, in particular from 1.5％to 15％by weight, more preferably from 2％to 12％by weight relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

As indicated hereinbefore, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion contains (ii) one or more fatty substances, preferably having a melting point less than 35℃ chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5％, preferably less than 1％and even more preferentially less than 0.1％) . The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) , liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances of the invention preferably do not contain any salified carboxylic acid groups.

Particularly, the fatty substances of the invention are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated ethers.

The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg； i.e. 1.013×10⁵ Pa) .

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant or synthetic oils of triglyceride type, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes other than fatty alcohols, and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, squalane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names

810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

Use will preferably be made of triglyceride oils of plant origin.

The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names

PC1 and

PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals； perfluoro-1, 2-dimethylcyclobutane； perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF

and PF

by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name

by the company Atochem； nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane； perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF

by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

As regards the fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate； octyldodecyl behenate； isocetyl behenate； cetyl lactate； C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl lactate； isostearyl lactate； lauryl lactate； linoleyl lactate； oleyl lactate； (iso) stearyl octanoate； isocetyl octanoate； octyl octanoate； cetyl octanoate； decyl oleate； isocetyl isostearate； isocetyl laurate； isocetyl stearate； isodecyl octanoate； isodecyl oleate； isononyl isononanoate； isostearyl palmitate； methyl acetyl ricinoleate； myristyl stearate； octyl isononanoate； 2-ethylhexyl isononate； octyl palmitate； octyl pelargonate； octyl stearate； octyldodecyl erucate； oleyl erucate； ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate； dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids and of C₂-C₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate； diisopropyl sebacate； diisopropyl adipate； di (n-propyl) adipate； dioctyl adipate； diisostearyl adipate； dioctyl maleate； glyceryl undecylenate； octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate； pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate； pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate； pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate； pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate； pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate； propylene glycol dicaprylate； propylene glycol dicaprate； tridecyl erucate； triisopropyl citrate； triisostearyl citrate； glyceryl trilactate； glyceryl trioctanoate； trioctyldodecyl citrate； trioleyl citrate； propylene glycol dioctanoate； neopentyl glycol diheptanoate； diethylene glycol diisononanoate； and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferably made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular mono-or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name

DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:

-the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitate/stearates formed from 73％monoester and 27％diester and triester, from 61％monoester and 39％diester, triester and tetraester, from 52％monoester and 48％diester, triester and tetraester, from 45％monoester and 55％diester, triester and tetraester, from 39％monoester and 61％diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate；

-the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20％monoester and 80％diester-triester-polyester；

-the sucrose mono-dipalmitate/stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name

PSE.

The non-silicone wax (es) other than fatty alcohols are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated j ojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France) , or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) ； other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

The fatty substance (s) according to the invention may be chosen from silicones.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone (s) are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) , and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Silicones are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) , Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

The volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from silicones with a boiling point of between 60℃ and 260℃, and even more particularly silicones chosen from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile

7207 by Union Carbide or

70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile

7158 by Union Carbide, and

70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile

FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra (trimethylsilyl) pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, 1’-bis (2, 2, 2’, 2’, 3, 3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane；

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10^-6 m²/sat 25℃. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

The non-volatile silicones that may be used according to the invention may preferably be non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organic functional groups chosen from amine groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups, and also mixtures thereof.

The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10^-5 to 5×10^-2 m²/s at 25℃.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

-the

oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia；

-the oils of the

70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia；

-the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning；

-the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20；

-the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000；

-certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

-substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are, in particular, C₁-C₄ aminoalkyl groups；

-alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil

2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than 35℃.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from mineral oils, vegetable oils and mixture thereof.

Among mineral oils, mention may in particular be made of liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly.

Among vegetable oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as, for example, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coriander oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, groundnut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, rice bran oil, maize oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, passionflower oil, rye oil or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises as fatty sub stance having a melting point less than 35℃, a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.

The fatty substance (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1％to 50％by weight, preferentially from 0.5％to 40％by weight, more preferentially in a content from 1％to 30％by weight； even better from 2％to 20％by weight, or even from 3％to 15％by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 7, better still between 5 and 6.

The composition according to the invention may also contain additives such as cationic surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic, other than the fatty acid ether polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants according to the invention, or amphoteric polymers, anionic surfactants, natural or synthetic polymeric thickening agents, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickening agents such as electrolytes, styling polymers, agents for colouring keratin fibres, sugars, pearlizers, opacifiers, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, fragrances, colourants, organic or inorganic particles, preservatives, pH stabilization agents, sugars.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition used in the process according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the oxidizing composition.

The cationic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C₈-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include those corresponding to the general formula (II) below:

in which the groups R₈ to R₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈ to R₁₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy (C₂-C₆) alkylene, C₁-C₃₀ alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂) alkylamido (C₂-C₆) alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂) alkyl acetate and C₁-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups； X^-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄) alkyl sulfates, and (C₁-C₄) alkyl-or (C₁-C₄) alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) , those that are preferred are, for instance behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, hydroxyethyl oleyldimethylammonium salts for example those sold under the name Chimexane CL by the company Chimex, cetyltrimethylammonium salts sold under the name Dehyquart A OR by the company BASF, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salt sold under the name

70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.

The cationic surfactant (s) , when exists, may be present in the neutralizing composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1％to 50％by weight, preferentially from 0.5％to 20％by weight, more preferentially in a content from 1％to 15％by weight； even better from 2％to 10％by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more silicones especially polyorganosiloxanes including one or more substituted or unsubstituted amino substituents.

In other words, the silicones used are preferentially chosen from amino-silicones.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino silicone” means any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino-silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:

the compounds corresponding to the following formula (III) :

(R₁) _a (T) _3-a-Si [OSi (T) ₂] _n- [OSi (T) _b (R₁) _2-b] _m-OSi (T) _3-a- (R¹) _a

(III)

in which,

T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C₁-C₈ alkyl substituent, and preferably methyl, or a C₁-C₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,

b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range especially from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10；

R₁ is a monovalent substituent having formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-N (R²) -CH₂-CH₂-N (R²) ₂；

-N (R²) ₂； -N⁺ (R²) 3 Q^-；

-N⁺ (R²) (H) ₂ Q^-；

-N⁺ (R²) ₂HQ^-；

-N (R²) -CH₂-CH₂-N⁺ (R²) (H) ₂ Q^-,

in which R² can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based substituent, for example a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl substituent, and Q^-represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino-silicones corresponding to the definition having formula (III) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (IV) :

in which R, R’and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl substituent, preferably CH₃； a C₁-C₄ alkoxy substituent, preferably methoxy； or OH； A represents a linear or branched, C₃-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene substituent； m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and the sum of which is between 1 and 2,000.

According to a first possibility, R, R’and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl substituent, A represents a C₃ alkylene substituent and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately. The compounds of this type are named “amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.

According to a second possibility, R, R’and R”, which are identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl substituent, at least one of the R or R”substituents is an alkoxy substituent and A represents a C₃ alkylene substituent. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2, 000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1,000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1,000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, among others, of the product

ADM 652 sold by Wacker and the product Silsoft 253 by Momentive.

By way of examples, mentions may also be made of a product sold by Wacker under the tradename

ADM LOG 1 which, besides amodimethicone, comprises non-ionic surfactant trideceth-5, trideceth-10, phenoxyethanol, and solvents such as water, glycerine.

According to a third possibility, R and R”, which are different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl substituent, at least one of the R and R”substituents is an alkoxy substituent, R’represents a methyl substituent and A represents a C₃ alkylene substituent. The hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and is advantageously equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2,000 and 200,000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1,000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1,000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid

1300 sold by Wacker.

According to a fourth possibility, R and R”represent a hydroxyl substituent, R’represents a methyl substituent and A is a C₄-C₈ and preferably C₄ alkylene substituent. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2,000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1, 999 and m is between 1 and 2,000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2,000.

A product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow Corning.

It should be noted that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature； polystyrene standard； μ styragem columns； eluent THF； flow rate of 1 mm/m； 200 μL of a 0.5％by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected and detection is carried out by refractometry and UV spectrometry) .

A product corresponding to the definition having formula (III) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (III) .

Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238； a compound having formula (V) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

Preferably, the silicones are chosen from amino-silicones having formula (IV) .

The silicones, when exist, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05％to 20％by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1％to 10％by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1％to 5％by weight relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

Preferably, the neutralizing composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer chain or be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

The cationic polymers used in the composition generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5×10⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3×10⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type.

These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Advantageously, among the said polymers, mention may be made of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XII) or (XIII) :

in which formulae k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1； R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical； R₇ and R₈, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower (C₁-C₄) amidoalkyl group, or R₇ and R₈ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl； R₇ and R₈, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms； Y^-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are especially described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.

The cationic polymer (s) , if exist, may be present in a content ranging from 0.001％to 5％by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 0.005％to 3％by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the permanent shaping of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, comprising:

-a step of applying onto the said fibres a reducing composition； and

-a step of applying onto the said fibres a neutralizing composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising:

(i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents,

(ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type chosen from formula (I) as previously described wherein R represents a linear unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and

(iii) one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than 35℃ especially chosen mineral oils, vegetable oils and mixture thereof.

According to this preferred embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agents is advantageously hydrogen peroxide.

According to this preferred embodiment, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion may comprise at least one additive chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, and the mixture thereof.

The waiting time allowed to elapse following application of the reducing composition is generally from 5 to 60 minutes, in particular from 3 to 30 minutes.

The neutralizing composition as previously described is subsequently used after the reducing composition.

The waiting time for the neutralizing composition is generally from 2 to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 to 15 minutes.

When a perming operation is desired, preference is given to using mechanical means such as curlers in order to place the keratinous fibres under tension, with the reducing composition according to the invention being applied before, during or after the hair-shaping means, preferably after.

The reducing composition in accordance with the present invention may be applied to wetted hair which has been wound beforehand onto rollers with a diameter of from 2 to 30 mm. The reducing composition may also be applied in line with the winding of the hair. Generally speaking, the reducing composition is then allowed to act for a time of 5 to 60 minutes.

Following application of the reducing composition according to the invention, it is also possible to subj ect the whole hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 250℃ for all or part of the leave-on time. In practice, this operation may be performed using a hairstyling hood, a hairdryer, a round or flat iron, an infrared ray dispenser and other heating appliances.

In particular it is possible, both as heating means and as hair-shaping means, to use heating tongs at a temperature of between 60 and 230℃, and preferably between 120 and 230℃, the heating tongs being used after the step of interim rinsing following the application of the reducing composition.

The curler itself may be a heating means.

The neutralizing composition of the present invention for reforming the keratin disulfide bonds is then applied to the rolled-up or unrolled hair, generally for a leave-on time of from 2 to 30 minutes.

In the case of a hair relaxing or straightening process, the reducing composition is applied to the hair, and the hair is then subjected to mechanical deformation for fixing the hair in its new shape, by means of a hair straightening operation, with a wide-toothed comb, with the back of a comb, by hand or with a brush. The leave-on time is generally from 5 to 60 minutes.

This application may also be followed with a heating treatment, especially using an iron.

The straightening of the hair may also be performed, totally or partly, using a heating iron at between 60 and 230℃ and preferably between 120 and 230℃.

The neutralizing composition as defined above is then applied, and is left to act generally for around 2 to 30 minutes, after which the hair is optionally rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.

After the permanent deformation treatment method has been performed, the keratinous fibres are optionally rinsed.

Preferably, the keratinous fibres impregnated with the oxidizing composition are rinsed thoroughly with water. The keratinous fibres may optionally be separated, before or after, from the means needed to keep them under tension.

The keratinous fibres may then be washed with a shampoo, rinsed and dried or left to dry.

The permanent deformation treatment method is preferably a method for smoothing of keratinous fibres, more particularly of human keratinous fibres such as the hair.

The present invention also deals with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type and a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.

The present invention also relates to a treatment process for keratin substances, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined hereinabove to the keratin substances, and in optionally rinsing, for example after an optional leave-on time.

The examples that follow illustrate the present invention, and should not in any way be considered as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLES:

The following composition is prepared from the ingredients indicated as a weight percentage of the composition as it is in the table below:

Composition B is a comparative composition which does not contain fatty substances.

Invention composition A and comparative composition B had been prepared in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion by a phase inversion process (PIT) (Phase Inversion Temperature) by following the protocol below:

Water was mixed with the polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type (Oleth-10) and the fatty substance (Coconut oil and Mineral oil) , when existed.

The mixture was then heated under stirred up to 80-90℃ and was then quickly cooled down also under stirred.

Another composition comprising the other components of the composition was then added to this mixture under stirred.

The pH was then adjusted at 2.2 ± 0.2.

Composition B cannot form a nanoemulsion, the appearance of the composition is white or milky dispersion.

Composition A, in which the size of the oil globules is measured by quasi-elastic light scattering, is less than 100 nm. Therefore invention composition A is a nanoemulsion.

Both compositions A and B are stable on storage for at least 2 months at room temperature and at 45℃.

A reducing composition C was prepared for evaluation.

The evaluations of the smoothness of hair were conducted on both dry and wet hair swatches.

Dry sliding:

12 slightly bleached hair swatches were cleaned with a commercial shampoo, and divided into two equivalent groups.

All the swatches were dried by hair dryer, (60℃ for 15-20min) , then put it in oven (temp. 25℃, RH 50％) overnight.

A first group of 6 swatches was treated according to the following protocol in accordance with the present invention:

2g/g of swatch reducing composition C was applied onto the swatches, leave for 15min, then rinse off.

Use flat iron to straighten the hair (230℃, 30S) .

Then 2g/g of neutralizing composition A according to the invention was applied onto the swatches. Leave for 10min, then rinse off.

Then the swatches were left to dry, then put in oven (temp. 25℃, RH 50％) overnight.

A second group of 6 swatches was treated according to the following comparative protocol:

Use flat iron to straighten the hair (230℃, 30S) .

Then 2g/g of neutralizing composition B outside of the present invention was applied onto the swatches. Leave for 10min, then rinse off.

Sliding tests were conducted on the swatches in dry state just after the above protocols.

Measurement principle:

The force needed to make each hair swatch slide between 2 others is measured.

2 swatches are put in parallel to each other, the third swatch is put reversely. Fix the first 2 swatches then pull the third swatch against the 2 fixed swatches using a notch, with a speed of 48 cm/min, and measure the sliding force by a sensor. The measurement is realized from roots to tips.

The average force is calculated and the evolution of the sliding force is recorded to quantify the surface state (homogeneous or heterogeneous) along the fiber (from roots to tips) . The sliding force is representative of the smoothness of the hair.

Wet sliding:

All the swatches were dried by hair dryer, (60C for 15-20min) , then put it in oven (temp. 25C, RH 50％) overnight.

Use flat iron to straighten the hair (230℃, 30S) .

Then 2g/g of swatch neutralizing composition B outside of the invention was applied onto the swatches. Leave for 10min, then rinse off.

Then the swatches were wringing by a hair clip with plastic tubes to remove the extra water.

Sliding tests were conducted on the swatches in wet state just after the above protocols. The protocol is same as the one mentioned above.

The result is as follow:

It is observed that the neutralizing composition A is a stable nanoemulsion.

Besides, in terms of hair smootheness, the composition A of the invention has a much better cosmetic performance on the hair swatches, both under dry and wet sliding.

Claims

Process for the permanent reshaping of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, comprising:

-a step of applying onto the said fibres a reducing composition (A) ； and

-a step of applying onto the said fibres a neutralizing composition (B) in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising:

(i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents,

(ii) one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type,

(iii) one or more fatty substances.
Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (s) have a melting point less than or equal to 35℃, preferably less than or equal to 30℃ and even more particularly preferably less than or equal to 25℃.
Process according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) :

R- (O-CH₂-CH₂) _n-OH

Formula (I) in which:

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain ranging from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and

n represents an integer greater than 2, preferably greater than or equal to 4.
Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that n is an integer less than or equal to 12.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances have a melting point strictly less than 35℃.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances are chosen from mineral oils, vegetable oils and/or mixtures thereof.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the neutralizing composition comprises, as fatty substance, a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides and peroxygenated salts, and is preferably hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate, or a mixture thereof.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent (s) represent from 0.01％ to 20％, preferably from 0.1％ to 10％ and better still from 2％ to 8％ by weight relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition.
Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compositions (A) and (B) , respectively, further comprises one or more ionic surfactants chosen anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably cationic surfactants.
Process according to claim 1, wherein the reducing composition (A) comprises at least one reducing agent.
Composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, one or more polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of the fatty alcohol ether type and a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil.