RU2697860C2 - Cosmetic composition containing an organosilane, a cationic surfactant and a cationic polymer having a charge density of 4 meq/g or more - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic compositions for treating keratin fibers. Disclosed is a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular keratin fibers of a human, such as hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers characterized by charge density equal to 4 meq/g or more, and one or more cationic surfactants, wherein the pH of said composition is in range of 3–7. Method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using said cosmetic composition, as well as use of said composition are proposed, too.

EFFECT: declared composition provides more pronounced conditioning properties preserved after hair washing.

16 cl, 4 ex

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair containing one or more organosilanes in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more, and one or more cationic surfactants.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers using said cosmetic composition.

The present invention ultimately relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers.

Hair is generally damaged and brittle due to external atmospheric influences, such as light and bad weather, and / or mechanical or chemical treatments, such as blow-drying, combing, dyeing, lightening, permanent waving and / or straightening.

Accordingly, in order to eliminate these drawbacks, currently, treatments for hair care are usually carried out using grooming compositions that condition the hair after these treatments, giving them, in particular, shine, softness, obedience, lightness, natural feeling and properties consisting in facilitating combing.

These hair care compositions may be, for example, shampoos or conditioning compositions intended to be applied before or after washing using shampoo, and may be in the form of gels, lotions or hair creams with different densities.

It is known that in order to improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, cosmetics are introduced into them, known as conditioning agents, intended primarily to restore or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by various treatments or effects to which hair rods are more or less often exposed.

For this purpose, the use of organosilicon compounds (organosilanes) in cosmetic care compositions has already been proposed, inter alia, to give the hair satisfactory conditioning properties.

Such compositions, for example, are described in patent applications FR 2910276, EP 2343042 and EP 2111848.

However, the care compositions described in the prior art provide conditioning and combing properties that do not last long. Indeed, these properties are, in general, insufficiently resistant to washing and tend to decrease, starting with the first wash using shampoo.

Moreover, compositions containing organosilicon compounds often have the disadvantage of significantly changing over time under normal storage conditions, in particular, changing their viscosity and appearance.

This means that their appearance may become dull and / or they may have a less satisfactory texture, which may reduce the effectiveness of these compositions.

Accordingly, there is a real need for an affordable cosmetic composition for caring for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, which does not have the aforementioned disadvantages, i.e. which, in particular, is capable of providing conditioning properties that are not only satisfactory but also persist for a long time after washing, for example, are stored for a long time for at least 3 washing sessions using shampoo. These compositions should also remain stable over time.

The applicant unexpectedly discovered that a composition containing one or more organosilicon compounds, as defined later in this document, one or more cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more, and one or more cationic surfactants, may allow achieving the goals set above.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(i) one or more organosilanes selected from compounds of the formula (I) and / or their oligomers:

R ₁ Si (OR ₂ ) _z (R ₃ ) _x (OH) _y (I),

Where

- R ₁ represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain, in particular a C ₂ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted by a group selected from amino groups NH ₂ or NHR (where R represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, in particular C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₄₀ cycloalkyl or aromatic radical C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); a hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more specifically benzyl), which is optionally substituted with an NH ₂ or NHR group; moreover, possibly R ₁ is interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),

- R ₂ and R ₃ , which are the same or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- y denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3,

- z denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3, and

- x denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 2,

- where z + x + y = 3,

(ii) one or more cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more, and

(iii) one or more cationic surfactants.

The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in which the composition in accordance with the present invention is applied to these fibers.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for providing cosmetic treatment of hair that persists for a long time after washing using shampoo.

The composition in accordance with the present invention provides, in particular, a satisfactory coating for the hair and, in particular, gives them softness, obedience, smoothness, lightness, volume and a feeling of natural lightness and lack of fat. This composition also provides hair with improved combing ability.

Moreover, the properties provided by the composition in accordance with the present invention, withstand various influences that can be subjected to hair, such as light, bad weather, washing, sweating. They remain for a long time when washed with shampoo, in particular after at least 3 washing sessions.

The composition of the present invention is also stable over time.

Under the "stable" within the framework of the present invention, it is understood that the appearance and viscosity of these compositions does not change or essentially does not change (change, in general, by less than 10% with respect to viscosity at T0) over time under standard storage conditions , for example, within a month or two months after their manufacture, at ambient temperature.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be even more clear when reading the following description and examples.

Below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "from ... to" and "in the range from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used throughout this specification are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to,” respectively.

Organosilanes

The composition in accordance with the present invention contains one or more organosilanes selected from compounds characterized by the formula (I) and / or their oligomers:

R ₁ Si (OR ₂ ) _z (R ₃ ) _x (OH) _y (I),

Where

- R ₁ represents a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain, in particular a C ₂ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted by a group selected from amino groups NH ₂ or NHR (where R represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, in particular C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₄₀ cycloalkyl or aromatic radical C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); a hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more specifically benzyl), which is optionally substituted with an NH ₂ or NHR group; moreover, possibly R ₁ is interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),

- R ₂ and R ₃ , which are the same or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- y denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3,

- z denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3, and

- x denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 2,

- where z + x + y = 3.

The term "oligomer" is intended to indicate the polymerization products of compounds characterized by the formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

Preferably, R ₁ is a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain, in particular a C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted with an amino group of NH ₂ or NHR (R is C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl in particular C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl).

Preferably R ₂ represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, even better a linear alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably an ethyl group.

Preferably z is in the range from 1 to 3.

Preferably y = 0.

Mostly z = 3, and thus x = y = 0.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the organosilane (s) is selected from compounds of formula (I) in which R ₁ is a linear alkyl group containing from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and, more specifically, from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or A C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkyl group, preferably a C ₂ -C ₄ aminoalkyl group. More specifically, R ₁ represents an octyl group.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the organosilane (s) is selected from compounds of formula (I) in which R ₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amino group of NH ₂ or NHR (where R represents C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, in particular C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₄₀ cycloalkyl or aromatic radical C ₆ -C ₃₀ ). In this embodiment, R _{1 is} preferably a C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkyl group and more preferably a C ₂ -C ₄ aminoalkyl group.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains one or more organosilanes of the formula (I) selected from octyltriethoxysilane, octadecyl triethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane) (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane) (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane) N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane and their oligome moat and mixtures thereof; and, more specifically, selected from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers and mixtures.

Organosilanes of the formula (I) used in the composition of the present invention, in particular including a basic functional group, can be partially or completely neutralized to improve their solubility in water. In particular, the neutralizing agent may be selected from organic or inorganic acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid.

Preferably, the optionally neutralized organosilanes of formula (I) according to the present invention are water soluble and, in particular, soluble at a concentration of 2% by weight, even better at a concentration of 5% by weight and even better at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm.). The term "soluble" is intended to mean the formation of a single macroscopic phase.

Organosilane (s) of the formula (I) may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably in a range of from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

The composition in accordance with the present invention further comprises one or more cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more (milliequivalents per gram).

Even more preferably, the cationic charge density is 5 meq / g or more, and more preferably may vary from 5 to 20 meq / g.

The cationic charge density of the polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cation charges per unit mass of the polymer under conditions under which it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers making up the polymer and their molar ratio or weight ratio. It can also be determined experimentally using the Kjeldahl method.

Cationic polymers having a cation charge density of 4 meq / g or more that can be used in accordance with the present invention can be selected from all those that are already known to themselves improve the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, those. especially from those described in patent application EP-A-0337354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2270846, 2383660, 2598611, 2470596 and 2519863.

Generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic polymers used in the present invention are preferably characterized by a number average molecular weight of 50,000 g / mol or more, and more preferably of 100,000 g / mol or more.

The cationic polymers used in accordance with the present invention are mainly selected from those that contain elementary units, including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amino groups, which can either form part of the main chain of the polymer, or can be located on the side substituents directly connected with her.

More specifically, the cationic polymers present in the composition of the present invention are selected from polymers such as polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium, polyalkyleneimines and mixtures thereof.

Polymers such as polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium, which can be used in accordance with the present invention, and which, in particular, may be mentioned in this connection, are described in French patents No. 2505348 or 2542997. Among these polymers, the following can be mentioned.

(1) Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers.

(2) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and bivalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms, or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2162025 and 2280361.

(3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides obtained, in particular, by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; moreover, these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked using epihalohydrin, diepoxide, dianhydride, unsaturated dianhydride, bis-unsaturated derivative, bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-halogenated, amine, bis-alkyl halide or, alternatively, by reaction a bifunctional compound which is reactive with bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyl diamine, bis-alkyl halide, epihalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated one; moreover, a crosslinking agent is used in ratios ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyamide; however, these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more functional groups of the tertiary amine, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2252840 and 2368508.

(4) Polyaminoamide derivatives obtained by condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation using bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patent 1583363.

(5) Polymers obtained by the reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; wherein the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide from 0.5: 1 to 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described, in particular, in US patents 3227615 and 2961347.

(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising elementary units corresponding to formula (IV) or (V):

(IV)

(V)

(Iv)

(V)

Where

- k and t are 0 or 1, with the sum of k + t being 1;

- R ₉ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

- R ₇ and R ₈ , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1-5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group; or, alternatively, R ₇ and R ₈ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; and

- Y ^- represents an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Such polymers are described mainly in French patent 2080759 and in its additional certificate 2190406.

Mention may be made, for example, a homopolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, sold under the name "MERQUAT ^® 100" by the company NALCO (LUBRIZOL), and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride-acrylamide.

(7) Quaternary diammonium polycondensation products containing repeating elementary units corresponding to formula (VI):

(VI),

(Vi)

Where

—R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , which may be the same or different, are aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or, alternatively, R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , together or separately, form with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or, alternatively, R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-ORD or -CO-NH-RD, where R is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group,

- A ₁ and B ₁ are polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain one or more aromatic rings attached to the main chain or inserted into it, or one or several oxygen or sulfur atoms, or a sulfoxide, sulfonic, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl group, a quaternary ammonium group, a ureido, amide or ester group, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid,

A ₁ , R ₁₀ and R ₁₂ with two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached can form a piperazine ring; in addition, if A ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B ₁ may also denote a group - (CH ₂ ) n – CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) n-, in which D means:

a) a glycol residue having the formula: —O — Z — O—, wherein Z is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) x-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -,

- [CH ₂ —CH (CH ₃ ) —O] _y —CH ₂ —CH (CH ₃ ) -,

where x and y are an integer from 1 to 4, representing a specific and unambiguous degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4, representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or, alternatively, a divalent group

—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —SS — CH ₂ —CH ₂ -;

d) a ureylene group characterized by the formula: —NH — CO — NH—.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers are characterized by number average molecular weight, as a rule, from 1000 to 100000.

Polymers of this type are described, in particular, in French patents 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907 and US patents 2273780, 2375853, 2388614, 2454547, 3206462, 2261002, 2271378, 3874870, 4001432, 3929990, 39193906, 407396254, 403906254, 406906254. , 4025653, 4026945 and 4027020.

More specifically, it is possible to use polymers that are formed from repeating elementary units corresponding to the formula (VII):

(VII),

(Vii)

Where

- each of R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , R ₁₆ and R ₁₇ , which may be the same or different, denotes an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- n and p are integers in the range of from about 2 to 20, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound characterized by formula (VII) is that in which R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , R ₁₆ and R ₁₇ represent a methyl group and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as hexadimethrin chloride in accordance with INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(8) Quaternary polyammonium polycondensation products, consisting of elementary units, characterized by the formula (VIII):

,

,

Where

- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl group or a group —CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, where p is 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ at the same time do not represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be the same or different, are integers from 1 to 6,

- q is 0 or an integer from 1 to 34,

- X represents a halogen atom, and

- A denotes a dihalide group or preferably represents

-CH ₂ —CH ₂ —O — CH ₂ —CH ₂ -.

Such compounds are described mainly in patent application EP-A-122324.

Among them, mention may be made, for example, of products Mirapol ^® A 15, Mirapol ^® AD1, Mirapol ^® AZ1 and Mirapol ^® 175, sold by Miranol.

(9) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and comprising the unit (IX), (X) and / or (XI):

(IX),

(X) и/или

(XI),

(Ix)

(X) and / or

(Xi)

Where

- R ₂₂ independently represents H or CH ₃ ,

- A ₂ independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1-4 carbon atoms,

- R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , which may be the same or different, independently denote an alkyl group containing 1-18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group,

- R ₂₆ and R ₂₇ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms, and

- X ₂ ^- denotes an anion, for example methosulfate or a halide, such a chloride or bromide.

The comonomer (s) that can be used to prepare the corresponding copolymers belongs to the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen atom with lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

(11) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyltri (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylammonium salts, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide, or copolymerization is followed by crosslinking with an olefin-unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide.

Other cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensation products of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more that can be used in the framework of the present invention, those selected from families (6), (7), (9) and (11) as defined above in this document, and more preferably selected from:

- crosslinked polymers of salts of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium,

- cyclopolymers of alkyl diallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium,

- homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including the elementary units (IX) defined above in this document, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, cationic polymer (s) having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more, present in the composition of the present invention, is selected from 2-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (polyquaternium-37), dimethyl diallylammonium chloride (polyquaternium-6), and mixtures thereof .

Cationic polymers having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic Surfactants

The composition in accordance with the present invention may further include one or more cationic polymers.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in a composition in accordance with the present invention. This surfactant may carry one or more constant positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that can be converted into cations in the composition in accordance with the present invention.

The cationic surfactant (a) is preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylene, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines typically contain at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be specifically mentioned include the following:

(a) salts corresponding to general formula (XII) below:

(XII),

(Xii)

Where

R ₂₈ -R ₃₁ groups, which may be the same or different, are a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, with at least one of R ₂₈ -R ₃₁ denotes a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkylene, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkylamido (C ₂ - C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups, X ^- represents an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfates and (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylaryl sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (XII), tetraalkyl ammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethyl ammonium or alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular salts of behenyl trimethyl ammonium ammonium, distearyl dimethyl ammonium ammonium, are preferred, on the one hand. or, on the other hand, a salt of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, a salt of stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, a salt of stearamidopropyldimethylcetate rilammoniya or salt stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. It is especially preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.

(b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, characterized by formula (VIII) below:

(XIII),

(Xiii)

Where

- R ₃₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tall oil fatty acids,

- R ₃₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

- R ₃₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,

- R ₃₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, and

- X ^- represents an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates, in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

Preferably, R ₃₂ and R ₃₃ are a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tall oil derivatives, R ₃₄ is a methyl group and R ₃₅ is a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 from Rewo;

(c) Quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular characterized by the formula (XIV):

(XIV),

(Xiv)

Where

- R ₃₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;

- R _{37 is} selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1-4 carbon atoms or a group (R _36a ) (R _37a ) (R _38a ) N- (CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _36a , R _37a , R _38a , R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and R ₄₁ , which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1-4 carbon atoms, and

- X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75).

(d) Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as characterized by the formula (XV) below:

(XV),

(Xv)

wherein

R _{42 is} selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R _{43 is} selected from:

- groups

- groups R ₄₇ , which are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R _{45 is} selected from:

- groups

- groups R ₄₉ , which are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups,

r, s and t, which are the same or different, are integers characterized by values from 2 to 6;

y is an integer characterized by a value from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^- represents a simple or complex and organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 15, which, if x is 0, then R ₄₃ is R ₄₇ , and that if z is 0, then R ₄₅ is R ₄₉ .

Alkyl groups of R ₄₂ may be linear or branched and more specifically linear.

Preferably, R ₄₂ is a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Mostly the sum x + y + z is characterized by a value from 1 to 10.

If R ₄₃ is a hydrocarbon group of R ₄₇ , then it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

If R ₄₅ represents a hydrocarbon group of R ₄₉ , then it preferably contains from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , which are the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1.

Mostly y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are 2 or 3, and even more specifically are 2.

Anion X ^{- is} preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium containing an ester functional group can be used.

Anion X ^- even more specifically, is chloride or methyl sulfate.

More specifically, in the composition in accordance with the present invention apply ammonium salts characterized by the formula (XV), in which:

R ₄₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are 1;

z is 0 or 1;

r, s and t are 2;

R _{43 is} selected from:

- groups

- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- a hydrogen atom;

R _{45 is} selected from:

- groups

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , which are the same or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups and preferably from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups .

Mostly hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Examples which may be mentioned include compounds having the formula (XV), such as salts diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diatsiloksietilgidroksietilmetilammoniya, monoatsiloksietildigidroksietilmetilammoniya, and triatsiloksietilmetilammoniya monoatsiloksietilgidroksietildimetilammoniya (chloride or methylsulfate, in particular), and mixtures thereof. Acyl groups preferably contain from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and more specifically they are obtained from vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, then they can be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylene, with fatty C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ acids or mixtures of fatty C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ plant or animal fatty acids or by transesterification of their complex methyl ethers. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds, for example, sold under the name of Dehyquart ^® company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® company Stepan, Noxamium ^® company Ceca or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 company Rewo-Witco.

The composition in accordance with the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of complex mono-, di - and triesters with a predominance by weight of salts of complex diesters.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one of the ester functional groups, which are described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, available from Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group contain two ester functional groups.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group that can be used, it is preferable to use dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts.

The cationic surfactant (a) present in the composition of the present invention is more preferably selected from quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (XII) described herein above, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group , and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the cationic surfactant (a) present in the composition of the present invention is selected from cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium metosulfate and mixtures thereof, and even better from cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.

The cationic surfactant (a) may be present in the composition in accordance with the present invention in an amount in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably in the range from 0 , 3% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty substances

The composition in accordance with the present invention may also optionally contain one or more fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0, one%). They carry in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents at the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, ethanol, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty substances of the present invention do not contain any salt-converted or salt-free carboxyl groups (—C (O) OH or —C (O) O—). More specifically, the fatty substances of the present invention are neither polyoxyalkylene nor polyglycerylated.

Preferably, the fatty substances used in the composition of the present invention are non-silicone oils.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any silicon (Si) atoms and the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More specifically, the fatty substance (a) is selected from C ₆ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type vegetable oils, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones.

It should be recalled that for the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and fatty acids more specifically contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups containing 6-30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, one or several (in particular 1-4) hydroxyl groups. These compounds, if they are unsaturated, may contain from one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As for C ₆ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic and are preferably alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

The hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that can be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably selected from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, oil grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, Australian nut oil, wormwood oil, castor oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, passionflower oil, oil meadow pennies, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter.

Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ^®.

Fluorinated oils can be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M or, alternatively, bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

Fatty alcohols that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched and include from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples that can be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyl ethanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

Wax (s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are selected (s) mainly from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for example olive wax, rice waxes, hydrogenated wax fraction of jojoba oil or absolute color waxes such as blackcurrant essential wax sold by Bertin (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that can be used in accordance with the present invention are mainly marine waxes, such as a product sold by Sophim under the name M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes.

With regard to fatty acids and / or esters of fatty alcohols, which mainly differ from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic mono- or poly-C ₁ -C ₂₆ -acids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic mono- or poly-C ₁ -C ₂₆ alcohols, with the total number of carbon atoms in esters, more specifically, equal to 10 or more.

Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate can be mentioned; octyldodecyl behenate; isoacetyl behenate; cetillactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; laurillactate; linoleyl lactate; oleillactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyloctanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetylisostearate; isoacetyl laurate; isoacetyl stearate; isodecyloctanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octylisononanoate; 2-ethylhexylisononanoate; octyl palmitate; octylpelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleylarucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyl dodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate.

Within this embodiment, it is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra or pentahydroxy -C ₂ -C ₂₆ alcohols.

Mainly mention may be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyladipate; di-n-propyladipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glycerylundecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl arucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

As the fatty acid ester, the composition may also contain sugar esters and fatty diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acids. It should be recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds that contain several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or cane sugar), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

Sugar esters of fatty acids can be selected, in particular, from the group consisting of esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acids. These compounds, if they are unsaturated, may contain from one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters in accordance with this alternative form can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters, for example, can be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates or arachinodates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate mixed esters or palmitate / stearate.

In particular, mono- and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, β-stearate, β-behenate, β-oleate / palmitate, β-linoleate, β-linolenate or β-oleate / stearate of sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose.

As an example, mention may be made of a product sold under the name Glucate ^® DO by Amerchol, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or fatty acid sugar ester mixtures that may also be mentioned include:

- products sold as Crodesta's F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, and SL40, respectively representing sucrose palmitate / stearates, formed from 73% monoester and 27% complex di- and tri-ester, from 61% monoester and 39% complex di-, tri- and tetraester, from 52% of the monoester and 48% of the di-, tri- and tetra-esters, from 45% of the mono-ester and 55% of the di-, tri- and tetra-esters and from 39% of the monoester and 61% complex di-, tri- and tetraester and sucrose monolaurate;

- products marketed as Ryoto sugar esters, for example under the name B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoesters and 80% from diesters, triesters and polyesters;

- monodipalmitate / sucrose stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ^® PSE.

Silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group selected from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

If they are volatile, silicones, in particular, are selected from those that have a boiling point of 60 ° C to 260 ° C and, in particular, from the following:

(I) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Such, for example, are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 from Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 from Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 from Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 from Rhodia, and also mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclopolymers such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, characterized by the formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra (trimethylsilyl) pentaerythritol (50/50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and hydroxy-1,1'-bis (2,2,2 ', 2', 3, 3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane.

(ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2-9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 ^-6 m² / s at 25 ° C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold, in particular, under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

Preferred are the use of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, organopolysiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups described above, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more specifically selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mainly polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mentioned. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 ° C in accordance with Appendix C of ASTM Standard 445.

Among such polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned without limitation:

- Silbione oils of series 47 and 70047 or Mirasil oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70047 V 500000;

- Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² / s;

- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as Rhodia Series 48 oils.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are poly (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) dialkylsiloxanes.

Silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the present invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes, characterized by high number average molecular weights of 200,000 to 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Products that can be used, more specifically, in accordance with the present invention are mixtures, such as:

- mixtures formed from polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA) with hydroxyl end groups and from cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;

- mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane gum and cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; this product is SF 30 gum corresponding to dimethicone having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities and, more specifically, PDMS gums and PDMS oils, such as SF 1236 from General Electric. Product SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 gum as defined above with a viscosity of 20 m² / s and SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 ^-6 m² / s. This product preferably includes 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.

Organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the present invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following elementary units:

R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 and SiO _4/2 ,

where R represents alkyl containing 1-16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those most preferred are those where R is a lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins, mention may be made of products sold as Dow Corning 593 or sold as Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 from General Electric, which are silicones having a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold, in particular, as X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 from Shin-Etsu.

Organically modified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are those previously defined and containing one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organically modified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylaryl siloxanes, functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are preferably selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity in the range of 1 × 10 ⁻⁵ to 5 × 10 ⁻² m ² / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® Series 70641 oils from Rhodia;

- Rhodorsil ^® oils of series 70633 and 763 from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid Oil from Dow Corning;

Bayer PK series silicones, such as PK20;

- Bayer PN and PH silicones, such as PN1000 and PH1000 products;

- Certain General Series SF oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Among organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes, including the following.

- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee, or products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. Substituted amino groups are, in particular, C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl groups.

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 from SWS Silicones and Abil Wax ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the fatty substances that can be used in the composition of the present invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

Preferably, the fatty substance (a) is selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, oils of mineral origin, triglyceride type vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substance (a), when present in the composition in accordance with the present invention, can be in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably in the range from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic acids

The composition may also contain one or more organic acids.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic acid" means an organic acid and / or its associated base with a pKa of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, mainly in the range from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organic acid (s) is selected from carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic acid (s) is selected from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids.

Preferably, the organic acid (s) is preferably selected from lactic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably lactic acid.

Organic acid (s), if present in the composition in accordance with the present invention, may be contained in the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratin fibers, such as hair.

A cosmetically acceptable medium is formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from lower C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

The pH of the compositions in accordance with the present invention, as a rule, is in the range from 3 to 10, preferably from 3 to 7, more preferably from 4 to 7 and even better from 4 to 6.

The composition may also further comprise one or more additional additives.

The composition in accordance with the present invention may optionally contain one or more additives other than the compounds of the present invention and among which, in particular, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, agents anti-dandruff, anti-seborrhea, anti-hair loss and / or hair growth stimulants, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, min natural or organic pigments, exfoliating agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, mainly polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, flavorings, preservatives, pigments and ceramides.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional (e) additional (e) compound (s) so that the beneficial properties inherent in the composition of the present invention do not deteriorate in any significant way due to the anticipated ( s) additives (s).

Each of the aforementioned excipients, as a rule, may be present in an amount of from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, which comprises applying to said fibers an effective amount of the composition described above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, which previously were optionally washed using shampoo. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is applied to wet keratin fibers.

After processing, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with shampoo and then rinsed with water, after which they are dried or allowed to dry.

The composition in accordance with the present invention is applied with a holding time, which is in the range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

The present invention ultimately relates to the use of the composition described hereinabove for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, which persists for a long time after washing using shampoo.

According to the present application, “keratin fibers” means human keratin fibers and more specifically hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention, however, they are not restrictive.

Examples

In the following examples, all amounts are given in percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

I. Example 1

a. Test compositions

The following compositions, A1 (according to the invention) and B1 (comparative), were obtained from ingredients whose contents are shown in the table below.

A1 (according to the invention) B1
(comparative) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C ₁₆ / C ₁₈ ) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate one one White Mineral Oil 3 3 Dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate / cetearyl alcohol (30/70) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (25% aqueous solution) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane five - Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, flavoring a sufficient amount a sufficient amount Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (40% aqueous solution) 1,2
(0.48 AI) - Water up to 100 up to 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2

AI: active ingredient

The resulting compositions A1 and B1 were applied to the same hair by applying each composition to half a head in an amount of 6 g per half head, to wet hair. The experiment was repeated on 14 models.

The experts then evaluated each of the following conditioning properties: ease of combing, obedience, smoothness. The ease of combing was evaluated using a comb, while other properties were evaluated by touch. For each of the 14 experiments, the expert attributed a rating in the range from 0 to 5, where a rating of 0 corresponded to a minimum level of conditioning and a rating of 5 corresponded to a maximum level of conditioning.

Then, the durability of each of these properties was evaluated after 3 washing sessions using shampoo in accordance with the same criteria as before.

b. results

The results of the conditioning properties are presented in the following table (average values for 14 experiments).

After application After 3 wash sessions using shampoo Ease
unraveling A1 3.6 3,1 B1 3.6 2.2 Obedience A1 3.3 3.2 B1 3.3 2.6 Smoothness A1 2,8 2.9 B1 3.2 1.9

In terms of smoothness, although the present invention works slightly worse after application than the comparison composition (at T0), it is observed that for the invention the effect persists for a long time after 3 washing sessions using shampoo, while in relation to the comparison composition, this effect is not observed.

The results above demonstrate that the hair treated with the composition according to the present invention (A1) has good conditioning properties that remain after washing with shampoo, in contrast to the conditioning effects provided by the comparison composition (B1) . Indeed, even after three washings, the hair treated with the composition (A1) retains its conditioning properties. In contrast, properties obtained using composition (B1) are degraded.

II. Example 2

a. Test compositions

The following compositions, A2 (according to the invention) and B2 (comparative), were obtained from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.

A2
(according to the invention) B2
(comparative)  Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2%
(0.8% AM) 3.2%
(0.8% AM) 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane five% five% Polyquaternium-6
(Charge density: 6 meq / g) 1.2%
(0.4% AI) - Polyquaternium-10
(Charge density: 1.1 meq / g) - 0.44%
(0.4% AI) Water up to 100% up to 100% pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2

b. Procedure

The resulting compositions A2 and B2 were applied in an amount of 1 g to locks of bleached, moist hair weighing 2.7 g.

Then the expert using a comb assessed the resistance to combing after 3 shampoo washing sessions for each of the strands being tested, attributing scores in the range from 0 to 5, where a score of 0 corresponded to minimal combing relief (very difficult combing) and a score of 5 corresponded to a very easy level combing.

c. results

The results of the properties of combing are presented in the following table (average value for 2 strands).

After 3 wash sessions using shampoo A2 (according to the invention) five B2 (comparative) one

The results above demonstrate that the presence of a cationic polymer, characterized by a charge density of 4 meq / g or more, is necessary to ensure good conditioning properties that persist for 3 hours after shampooing. Thus, hair treated with a composition containing polyquaternium-6 (according to the invention) combes much better than hair treated with a composition containing polyquaternium-10 (comparison) after 3 washings using shampoo.

III. Example 3

a. Test compositions

The following compositions, A1 (according to the invention) and B3 (comparative), were obtained from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.

A1
(according to the invention) B3
(comparative) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C ₁₆ / C ₁₈ ) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate one one White Mineral Oil 3 3 Dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate / cetearyl alcohol (30/70) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (25% aqueous solution) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane five five Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, flavoring a sufficient amount a sufficient amount Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (40% aqueous solution) 1,2
(0.48 AI) - Water up to 100 up to 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2

AI: active ingredient

The resulting compositions A1 and B3 were applied in an amount of 6 g per half head on wet hair. The experiment was carried out on 6 models with sensitive hair.

Immediately after applying compositions A1 and B3 using a comb, the expert assessed the level of combing relief for each of the 6 comparative experiments by assigning ratings in the range from 0 to 5, where a score of 0 corresponded to minimal combing relief (very difficult combing) and a score of 5 corresponded to very easy combing level.

The resistance to combing after 3 wash sessions using shampoo was also determined using the same criteria as before.

b. results

The results of the properties of combing are presented in the following table (average value for 6 experiments).

After application After 3 wash sessions using shampoo A1 (according to the invention) 3.6 3.4 B3 (comparative) 3.8 2,8

The results above demonstrate that the composition in accordance with the present invention (A1) can provide good properties that facilitate combing.

Moreover, in contrast to the properties obtained using composition B3, the properties obtained using composition A1 are retained for a long time in the case of washing using shampoo. So, even after three shampoo washing sessions, the hair treated with a composition containing a cationic polymer having a charge density of 4 meq / g (according to the invention) retains its properties of facilitating combing. On the contrary, these properties are weakened if the hair is treated with a composition that does not contain a cationic polymer having a charge density of 4 meq / g or more.

The presence of this particular type of cationic polymer is therefore necessary to provide a lasting effect of cosmetic properties.

IV. Example 4

a. Test compositions

The following compositions, A1 (according to the invention) and B4 (comparative), were obtained from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.

A1
(according to the invention) B4
(comparative) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C ₁₆ / C ₁₈ ) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate one one White Mineral Oil 3 3 Dipalmitoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate / cetearyl alcohol (30/70) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) 4,5
(1.35 AI + 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (25% aqueous solution) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3.2
(0.8 AI) 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane five - Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, flavoring a sufficient amount a sufficient amount Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (40% aqueous solution) 1,2
(0.48 AI) 1,2
(0.48 AI) Water up to 100 up to 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2

AI: active ingredient

Compositions A1 and B4 were applied in an amount of 6 g per half head on wet hair. The experiment was carried out on 6 models with sensitive hair.

Immediately after applying compositions A1 and B4, the expert using a comb evaluated the level of combing relief for each of the 6 comparative experiments by assigning ratings in the range from 0 to 5, where a score of 0 corresponded to minimal combing relief (very difficult combing) and a score of 5 corresponded to very easy combing level.

The resistance to combing after 3 wash sessions using shampoo was also determined using the same criteria as before.

b. results

The results of the properties of combing are presented in the following table (average value for 6 experiments).

After application After 3 wash sessions using shampoo A1 (according to the invention) 3.2 3.3 B4 (comparative) 3,5 2.6

The results above demonstrate that the composition in accordance with the present invention (A1) can provide properties that facilitate combing, which lasts for a long time, for at least 3 washing sessions using shampoo, in contrast to the properties provided using composition B4. Indeed, after three washings, the hair treated with the composition containing 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (according to the invention) retains their properties of facilitating combing. In contrast, these properties are weakened if the hair is processed using a composition not containing organosilane, characterized by the formula (I).

The presence of a silane characterized by the formula (I) is therefore necessary to provide a lasting effect of cosmetic properties.

Claims (55)

1. Cosmetic composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) one or more organosilanes, selected from compounds characterized by the formula (I) and / or their oligomers: R ₁ Si (OR ₂ ) _z (R ₃ ) _x (OH) _y (I), Where - R ₁ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amino group of NH ₂ or NHR, where R represents C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₄₀ cycloalkyl or aromatic radical C ₆ - C ₃₀ - R ₂ and R ₃ , which are the same or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - y denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3, - z denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 3 and - x denotes an integer in the range from 0 to 2, - where z + x + y = 3, (ii) one or more cationic polymers characterized by a charge density of 4 meq / g or more selected from (6) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium; (7) quaternary diammonium polycondensation products containing repeating elementary units corresponding to formula (VI) :

(Vi) Where - R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , which may be the same or different, are aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or, alternatively, R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , together or separately, form with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or, alternatively, R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-ORD or -CO-NH-RD, where R is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group, - A_one and B_one are polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms attached to the main chain, or sulfoxide, sulfonic, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium group, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X ^- denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; (9) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including the elementary units (IX), (X) and / or (XI):

(Ix)

(X) and / or

(Xi) Where - R ₂₂ independently represents H or CH ₃ , - A ₂ independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1-4 carbon atoms, - R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , which may be the same or different, independently denote an alkyl group containing 1-18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group, - R ₂₆ and R ₂₇ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms, and - X ₂ ^- denotes an anion, for example methosulfate or a halide, such as chloride or bromide; (11) crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium salts, and (12) mixtures thereof, and (iii) one or more cationic surfactants, moreover, the pH value of the specified composition is in the range from 3 to 7. 2. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that the organosilane (s) selected (s) from compounds characterized by the formula (I), where R_one presents by myself C_one-C₆aminoalkyl group, preferably C₂-C_fouraminoalkyl group. 3. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the organosilane (s) of formula (I) is selected (s) from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (AP) 3 , 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxymethylene and preferably mixed toxisilane (OTES), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers and mixtures. 4. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the content of organosilane (s) of the formula (I) is in the range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 8 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the charge density of the cations of the cationic polymer (s) is 5 meq / g or more, and preferably is in the range from 5 to 20 meq / g. 6. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic polymer (s) is selected (s) from: - crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium salts, - cyclopolymers of alkyl diallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, - homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including the elementary units (IX) defined in paragraph 1, and mixtures thereof. 7. A composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic polymer (s) is selected (s) from 2-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. 8. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the content of cationic polymer (s) is in the range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% up to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic surfactant (a) is selected (s) from: (a) Quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula (XII) below:

(Xii) Where R ₂₈ -R ₃₁ , which may be the same or different, are a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, with at least one of the groups R ₂₈ - R ₃₁ denotes a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and X ^- represents an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfonates and (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylaryl sulfonates, (b) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, and (c) mixtures thereof. 10. A composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic surfactant (a) is selected (s) from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof, and more preferably cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the content of cationic surfactant (s) is in the range from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0 3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, mineral oils, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type and mixtures thereof. 13. The composition according to p. 12, characterized in that the content of fatty substances (substances) is in the range from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight composition. 14. The composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the pH value of the specified composition is in the range from 4 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 6. 15. The method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, which consists in applying to these keratin fibers the composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs. 16. The use of a composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-14 for cosmetic hair treatment, which persists for a long time when washed with shampoo.