WO2018033821A1 - Hair straightening combined with color correction using aerosol foam delivery - Google Patents

Hair straightening combined with color correction using aerosol foam delivery Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018033821A1
WO2018033821A1 PCT/IB2017/054748 IB2017054748W WO2018033821A1 WO 2018033821 A1 WO2018033821 A1 WO 2018033821A1 IB 2017054748 W IB2017054748 W IB 2017054748W WO 2018033821 A1 WO2018033821 A1 WO 2018033821A1
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hair
aerosol composition
dyes
linking agents
cross
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PCT/IB2017/054748
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French (fr)
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Daniel Moyal
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Saffron Secret Llc
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Publication of WO2018033821A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018033821A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Abstract

An aerosol composition comprising: synthetic conditioners and emollients; cationic or non-ionic or amphoteric or anionic surfactants and emulsifiers; keratin cross-linking agents; propellant comprising one or more gases; water phase; and one or more cationic or acidic or non-ionic or metallic salt hair dyes.

Description

HAIR STRAIGHTENING COMBINED WITH COLOR CORRECTION USING

AEROSOL FOAM DELIVERY

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a new efficient hair straightening combined with hair coloring system and method of use and formulations based on aerosol formulation.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Human hair has many textures, from fine to coars and from straight to curly. Hair is made of keratin which in turn is made of polypeptide chains bonded together by cysteine (or disulfide) bonds, hydrogen bonds and salt linkages. Curly hair is made of hair strands that have irregular surfaces that mesh and tangle with each other to make combing more difficult. Among individuals with very curly hair, e.g., individuals of African or Middle Eastern descent, it is especially popular to relax or straighten hair to increase hair manageability and ease of styling. Threads are composed of proteins of spiral structures, linked by a sulfur double-bond. These bonds are responsible for the hair structure and they may be broken by certain reduction reactions.

Hair straightening or hair relaxing products have been commercially available for over forty years for people who want straighter and more manageable hair. Most commercially available hair relaxers are composed of a strong hydroxide base that breaks the bonds in the hair. The first straightening chemicals were developed around 1940. They were rudimental preparations of

sodium or potassium hydroxide blended with starch and they were highly irritating to the scalp.

By the 1950s, several kits for chemical straightening, based on sodium hydroxide, were introduced in the professional market. In 1965, the market already had a chemical straightening product for home use, based on sulfites. In 1985, Avon Industries introduced a straightening system based on types of hair and scalp sensitivity (i.e., normal and sensitive). The first one used sodium hydroxide as its active ingredient and the other used guanidine hydroxide. However, the results provided by existing straightening products are not optimal, nor is their safety. Current products present inconvenience issues, such as weakening of threads, irritation of the scalp and difficulty in rinsing. Due to their instability, these formulations degrade rapidly. Also, degradation of hair color that can be damaged due to hot ironing step and/or chemical reactions is a very common inconvenience.

Hair Straightening

The most common reductive agents are thioglycolic acid and its derivatives such as ammonium thioglycolate and bisulfite. These act on the hair keratin by breaking disulfide bonds that link cysteine units; this way, they form cysteine, the main component of keratin. The hair to be relaxed is exposed to a relaxer that chemically transforms cysteine bonds of the hair to lanthionine bonds. For this reason, the term for the chemical relaxing process is lanthionization.

One treatment method often referred to as the Japanese treatment, for example, relies on lye and other harsh chemicals, while another treatment often called the Brazilian hair treatment uses high levels of formaldehyde in at least some versions.

For Japanese hair straightening, relaxers for hair are known but generally comprise harsh chemicals such as guanidine hydroxide, ammonium

thioglycolate, and sodium hydroxide (lye).

There is a need for hair straightening systems with reduced thioglycolates levels and that do not require elevated pH levels.

For Brazilian hair straightening, when a high concentration of formol

(formaldehyde) is used, the reagents polymerize upon heating the hair with a hot iron, sealing some of the un-reacted agents into the hair shaft for long periods of time.

Both methods (Japanese and Brazilian) are very time and labor consuming and as a result are also expensive and non-convenient for the clients.

Hair Dyeing/Coloring

Hair coloring is always a time consuming process that can be classified as: Permanent oxidative hair dyeing, Semi-Permanent non-oxidative hair dyeing and Temporary Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing, depending on the coloring methods and dyes chemistry. Permanent Oxidative Hair Dyeing provides greater efficacy of permanent dyeing, resistance to shampoo washes and other external factors, such as drying, friction, light, and others. This category represents about 80% of the sold hair dyes and gets any shade, covering up to 100% of white hair strands. Also, it is possible to have dark and light natural hair color due to the combination of the oxidizing agents with the ammonia hydroxide. The principal difference between the demipermanent hair dye in comparison with a permanent one is the alkalizing agent used because, in the first,

monoethanolamine with low color lightening power is used. Color formation happens upon mixture and involves complex reactions between precursors in the presence of an oxidizing agent. The precursors can be classified into two categories: oxidation basis or primary intermediaries, and the couplers or reaction modifiers. The reaction occurs in an alkaline medium that promotes the opening of the cuticles that allows the penetration of the dyes' molecules into the cortex. The oxidizing agent permits the beginning of the reaction that occurs in the cortex and results in a colorful complex with high molar mass, which avoids the exit of molecules formed in the hair. Part of the reaction also happens on the cuticles and the molecules are removed in the first washes. The ammonia hydroxide and ethanolamines are the most alkalizing agents used. A mixture of surfactants and solvents is used to disperse the dye molecules and ensure the hair wetting. A small amount of reducing agent is added to prevent auto-oxidation of the dyes during storage of the finished product which may be formulated as an emulsion, gel, solution and powder. The reactions involved in the formation of permanent dyes are redox types and require four major components: the aromatic amine with substitutions at positions ortho or para (hydroxy or amino) as the coupling bases; the reaction modifiers; an alkalizing compound; and an oxidizing agent.

Examples of dyes suitable for Permanent Oxidative Hair Dyeing:

Oxidation dyes precursors: COVASTYLE LP-PPD (p-phenylenediamine), COVASTYLE PPDS (p- phenylenediamine sulfate), COVASTYLE PAP(p-aminophenol), Jarocol 4A3MP(4-Amino-m-cresol), Jarocol AHP(1 -Hydroxyethyl-4,5-Diaminopyrazole sulfate), Jarocol BHP(N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate), Jarocol BTX(Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate), Jarocol PAP(p- Aminophenol), Jarocol PMAP(p-Methylaminophenol sulfate), Jarocol PPD(p- Phenylenediamine), Jarocol TAP(Tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate), Jarocol TDS(Toluene-2, 5-diamine sulfate).

Oxidation dyes couplers:

Covastyle MAP(m-aminophenol), COVASTYLE RCN(resorcinol),

COVASTYLE AHEAS(2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate),

COVASTYLE 2-4 DAPE(2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCI), COVASTYLE LP- AHT(4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene), COVASTYLE LP-4CLR(4-chlororesorcinol), Jarocol 2A3HP(2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine), Jarocol 2M5AP(4-Amino-2- hydroxytoluene), Jarocol 2M5HEAP(2-Methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol), Jarocol 2MR(2-Methylresorcinol), Jarocol ACC(5-Amino-6-chloro-o-cresol), Jarocol AHEA(2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate), Jarocol AN(1 - Naphthol), Jarocol DPE (2HCI) (2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol dihydrochloride), Jarocol DPE (H2SO4) (2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol sulfate), Jarocol MAP(m- Aminophenol), Jarocol PMP(Phenyl methyl pyrazolone), Jarocol

RL(Resorcinol), Jarocol 4CLR(4-Chlororesorcinol).

Semi-Permanent Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing (Direct Dyeing) provides basic or cationic dyes with low molar mass, which has a high affinity for hair keratin and resists from three to six washes. The hair dyeing process does not involve oxidation reaction; the application is simple and lasts from 10 to 40 min, followed by rinsing. Dyes with low molar mass penetrate slightly in the cortex, especially because of the high pH value of the product that promotes the cuticles opening. Demi-permanent hair products promote major hair color durability (resistance up to 20 washes) because they consist of a mix of semipermanent molecules with oxidation dye precursors, applied with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Another option of formulation involves mixing nitro aniline dyes with basic or acid dyes which aim for a better color result and a bigger resistance to washes, considering the high affinity of the two families of dyes. The hair space not filled with the basic dyes will be occupied by nitro anilines, thus promoting a much more uniform color in the first application. The nitro anilines are molecules comprised of a neutral aromatic amine or anthraquinone derivatives and all are classified as highly polar and present mono, di, or tri nuclear rings. These dyes are diffused through the hair fiber and are retained by weak Van de Waals bonds. Under similar conditions, the larger molecules with tri aromatic rings are removed more slowly from the hair than the smaller, mononuclear ones. The cationic dyes are used in both temporary and semipermanent dyeing. They permit reflective effects and are excellent for instantaneous color effects. The similarities between the size of the cationic molecules grant substantivity to the hair in a homogenous way, ensuring the color reproducibility and the resistance to washing uniformly. The good performance of semipermanent dyes is directly related to their great water solubility. In general, the nitro anilines are not soluble in water and require a glycol or glycol derivative, such as glycerin, to be solubilized in the formulation. Specific solvents, such as mixtures of quaternary salts of high molecular weight, such as Quaternium-80, benzyl alcohol, and glycols are used to ensure not only their solubility in the formulation but also during application and product storage. Cationic dyes exhibit excellent affinity for damaged hair, because positive sites of the dye molecule bind to negative sites on the hair fiber by an ionic bond. They allow greater resistance to washing when compared to nitro anilines.

The cationic dyes are water-soluble; however, they also require the addition of solvents to ensure the homogeneity of the color and prevent recrystallization during storage because, in recrystallized form, the molecule does not provide the cationic sites to bind to hair strands. The pH control is essential for color stability - optimal pH considered 6.0-9.0.

Other dyes, such as metallic and vegetables derivatives, are also considered to be semipermanent dyes and can be used in hair dyeing. Henna is the most widely used vegetable dye for hair, promoting reddish orange color shades. In some commercial products, it is mixed with other dyes to increase the range of color. It consists of the dried leaves of the Lawsonia alba plant, growing in North Africa, in the Midwest, and in India. Its coloring properties are due to the presence of the substance 2-hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthoquinone, soluble in hot water and substantive to hair keratin in pH 5.5. Another vegetable dye commonly used to obtain yellow shades is chamomile that promotes greater light reflection. Of all the species of chamomile, only Anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile) and Matricaria chamomillae (German chamomile) have cosmetic applications, and both are substantive to hair. The active ingredient of the flowers is 1 ,3,4-trihydroxyflavone, also known as apigenin. The metallic dyes are derived from silver salts, lead, and bismuth and are traditionally used by men because the dyeing effect is not immediate and does not promote 100% of the white hair coverage. The darkening of the hair strands occurs gradually, promoting a more natural appearance, which satisfies the general public. The use is limited to the number of gray hair strands. Therefore, hair with a lot of white fibers cannot have a satisfactory result because of the leak of homogeneity in the final color. Products containing diluted lead acetate are applied to the hair daily and do not require washing, so the metal salt is exposed to air oxygen and also reacts with sulfur from keratin. These reactions generate a mixture of metallic oxides and insoluble sulfides, responsible for gradual darkening of gray hair. A disadvantage of the metallic dyeing process is the lack of control in the color progression because of the composition of hair, which is based on keratin. The keratin reduction will result in different colors, so after the first applications, hair can present greenish or yellowish shades. However, the final result is natural because the color develops progressively to more usual shades, such as brown and black, and coverage of 100% of white hair strands is impossible. Temporary Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing (Direct Dyeing) provides a reduced permanence time on the fiber, leaving the hair after the first shampoo washing because dye presents high molecular weight and deposits on the hair surface without the capacity of penetrating the cortex. This type of dye does not have the power of whitening the hair strand and, therefore, it is indicated only to add new nuance and not to change its color. In white, blond or bleached hairs, it is possible to add a new color with a more noticeable effect because the hair strand's background color allows the visualization of the new applied color. The temporary dye can be used for specific purposes such as adding colorful reflections, removing the yellowish effects of the white hair, and covering a small quantity of white hair. It allows the dyeing of hair containing up to 15% white hair, due to their ability to deposit on the hair strands. These dyes, that present acid characteristics usually have high molar mass. They contain anionic characteristics and are selected to allow the maximum solubility in water and the minimum penetration in hair so it is removed in the first washing. They are presented as shampoo, gel, emulsion and solution (liquid) with two different forms of application: continuous application (progressive) or single application, with one wash at the end of the application process to remove the unabsorbed dye excess on the hair strand.

Frequently, two to five substances are necessary to reach the desired hair color because just one substance does not achieve natural shades. Some formulations use two molecules to remove the yellowish effect in white hair and also four to five substances are mixed to reach the red, brown, and black shades. The temporary non-oxidative formulations as single applications, present higher dye concentrations, ranging from 0.1 % to 2.0% (w/w) and have the purpose of promoting a stronger dyeing effect. However, the limit of deposition must be always respected because this type of application will not cover gray hair satisfactorily in people with more than 30% of white hair fibers. The formulation must get in contact with hair for about 30 min and results will occur immediately. It is suitable for those who wish for fantasy colors. It resists from three to six washes when applied to bleached hair, like semipermanent dyeing.

Examples of direct dyes suitable for Temporary Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing:

· Basic dyes are suitable for temporary and semi-permanent

applications. Have cationic character. Best dyeing effect at pH 6-9

Commercial Basic direct dyes presently allowed for personal care hair dyeing:

306002 Arianor Mahogany(Basic Brown 16), 306003 Arianor Madder Red or Jarocol Madder Red(Basic Red 76), 306005 Arianor Straw Yellow or Jarocol Straw Yellow(Basic Yellow 57), 306008 Arianor Cherry Red or Jarocol Cherry Red(Basic Red 51 ), 30601 1 Arianor Sienna Brown or Jarocol Sienna Brown (Basic Brown 17), 306014 Arianor Steel Blue or Jarocol Steel Blue(Basic Blue 99), Arianor Lemon Yellow 306087 or Jarocol Citrus Yellow(Basic Yellow 87), Arianor Fire Orange 306081 (Basic Orange 51 ), Arianor Magenta 306082 (Basic Violet 2), Jarocol Flame Orange (Basic Orange 31 ), Jarocol

Mahogany(Basic Brown 16), etc.

• Acid dyes are large molecules that have anionic character and suitable for temporary and semi-permanent applications. Provide intense

"crazy" shades and classic shades. Often used for Anti yellowish or Silver shampoo / shading products for previously colored hair. After bleaching, better long lasting results can be obtained versus smaller nitro dyes. The large molecule acid dyes once absorbed into the hair shaft show exceptional durability and washfastness. Successive applications give a gradual increase in the quantity of dyestuff fixed progressively intensifying the color. Dyeing effect is a function of the pH: best result at pH= 2 - 4.

Commercial Acid direct dyes presently allowed for personal care hair dyeing: Jarocol Violet 43 or UNICERT VIOLET K71 16-J (Acid Violet 43), UNICERT BLUE 05601 -J(ACID BLUE 9), UNICERT ORANGE K701 1 -J(ACID ORANGE 7), PONCEAU 4R 80% E124-C(ACID RED 18), Unicert Yellow 08005-J(Acid Yellow 23), Jaune de quinoleine 70% E104-C(Acid Yellow 3), Unicert Orange K701 1 -J(Acid Orange 7), Unicert Red K7057-J(Acid Red 33), Unicert Yellow K7164-J(Acid Yellow 1 ), Unicert Red K7054-J (Acid Red 92), Noir W699(Acid Black 1 ), FD&C Red 40 07700-C(Curry Red), Ponceau 4R 80% E124-C(Acid Red 18), Rose Covasol W4002(Acid Red 52), Unicert Green K7015-J(Acid Green 25), etc.

• Nitro dyes are small molecules with non-ionic character and poor water solubility. Nitro dyes are suitable for semi-permanent applications and in combination with other dyes. Have Vibrant highlights.

Nitro direct dyes presently allowed for personal care hair dyeing:

Jarocol Yellow 2 or Jaune W 1 122 (HC Yellow 2), Jarocol Red 3 or Rouge W 3123 (HC Red 3), Rouge W 3127 or Jarocol Red BN(4-hydroxypropylamino- 3-nitrophenol), Jarocol Violet 14D or Pourpre W 512 (N,N'-bis(2- hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine), Jarocol Blue 2 or Bleu W 6122-LP (HC Blue 2), Arianor Jade Blue 306085(HC Blue No. 15), Jarocol Red 13(HC Red 13), Jarocol Yellow 5(HC Yellow 5), Jarocol Blue 15 (HC Blue 15), Jarocol Blue 12 (HC Blue 12), Jarocol 2NPPD(2-Nitro-p-phenylenediamine), Jarocol NHEAP(3-Nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol), Jarocol 4A3NP(4- Amino-3-nitrophenol), Jarocol 4NOPD(4-Nitro-o-phenylenediamine), Jarocol HNT(Hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-p-toluidine), etc.

SUMMARY

The present invention includes a hair straightening formulation consisting of a hair fixative that will straighten the hair for at least 2-3 months after one application despite frequent washings of the hair as well as methods for obtaining said formulation. The present invention provides a stable aerosol mousse composition. Surprisingly, it was found that it can provide enhanced hair straightening, smooth touch, alignment, volume reduction to the hair, with low or reduced fuming and "smoking" during the hair hot ironing step and hair coloring, both for correction to restore original color which can be damaged due to hot ironing step and for semi-permanent hair coloring. The aerosol composition is based on the combination of component (A) an emollient and conditioners such as silicones, (B) cationic or non-ionic or amphoteric or anionic surfactants, (C) Keratin cross-linking agents such as aldehydes and non-aldehydes, (D) Propellants such as carbon dioxide, propan and butan, (E) Basic or Acid or Nitro dyes for temporary or semi-permanent hair coloring, (F) Oxidation dyes precursors and Oxidation dyes couplers for Permanent Oxidative Hair Dyeing. The invention is further directed to a hair straightening system based on energy of foam micro bubbles. The invention is further directed to a method for straightening hair using said formulation.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that in one embodiment, keratin crosslinking agent is delivered more efficiently into hair fiber, driven by energy of micro bubbles of propellant gas trapped in mousse foam.

Keratin cross-linking agent can react with other sulfur groups on other hair keratin molecules to form methylenic bridges between keratin molecules instead of disulfide bonds, via reactions of the form

RSCH20H+RSH→RSCH2SR+H20.

Hair colorants are also delivered more efficiently into hair fiber, driven by energy of micro bubbles of propellant gas trapped in mousse foam. Thus, according to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided an aerosol composition comprising: synthetic conditioners and emollients;

cationic or non-ionic or amphoteric or anionic surfactants and emulsifiers; keratin cross-linking agents; propellant comprising one or more gases; water phase; and one or more cationic or acidic or non-ionic or metallic salt hair dyes.

The synthetic conditioners may be emollients comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of said aerosol composition.

The surfactants may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of said aerosol composition.

The keratin cross-linking agents may comprise 0.1 to 25% by weight of said aerosol composition.

The propellants may comprise 0.1 to 30% by weight of said aerosol composition.

The water phase may comprise 60.0 to 98% by weight of said aerosol composition.

The hair dyes may comprise 0.1 to 20% by weight of said aerosol

composition.

The aerosol composition may further comprise one or more amino acids. The aerosol composition may comprise hair conditioning agents.

The aerosol composition may further comprise fragrance.

The emollients may comprise one or more of: a silicone compound, a triglyceride and fatty acid ester.

The silicones may comprise soluble silicones comprising one or more of: silicone copolyols, polyether siloxane-modified polymers and polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane.

The silicones may comprise highly arylated silicones.

The aerosol composition may further comprise one or more cationic polymer conditioning agents. The cationic surfactants may contain amino or quaternary ammonium moieties.

The propellant may comprise carbon dioxide.

The propellant may further comprise at least one of: propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, N20 and water steam.

The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said water phase comprises water-miscible, or water-soluble solvents.

The aerosol composition may have a pH of from 1 .0 to 1 1 .

The keratin cross-linking agents may comprise one of aldehyde cross-linking agents and non-aldehyde cross-linking agents.

According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of straightening and dyeing hair comprising: (a) washing the hair with shampoo; (b) drying said washed; (c) applying the hair straightening formulation of claim 1 to said dried hair; (d) combing the treated hair of step (c) to obtain efficient spreading and absorption of cross-linking agents in hair; (e) maintaining the treated hair in step (d) for a sufficient amount of time to obtain absorption and cross-linking of hair; (f) hot ironing or hot air blowing the treated hair to obtain straightened hair; (*) optionally applying Rebonding Mask strand/tress by strand/tress; and (g) washing the straightened hair of step (f) with aerosol.

Step (e) may be maintained for not more than 30 minutes.

The method may further comprise, after said step (e), rinsing the treated hair in step (e) with water to remove from hair all treatment formulation residue and traces.

The method may further comprise drying said washed hair.

The method may further comprise, after said step (g), rinsing the shampooed hair of step (g) with conditioner for a sufficient amount of time, to obtain conditioned hair.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and oxidation dyes precursors and oxidation dyes couplers for use in a single treatment. According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct basic-cationic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct acid-anionic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct nitro-aniline non- ionic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct metallic or pigment hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes for use in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of hair treatment using formol derivates or (formol-free) aldehydes or aldehyde-free keratin cross-linking agents in combination with various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes in a single treatment.

According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of combined treatment of hair straightening and hair dyeing, which combines keratin cross-linking agents and various hair dyes, at various ratios and combinations, said method performed in a delivery formulations selected from the group consisting of: foam, spray, emulsion, solution and gel. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

One of the disadvantages of conventional Brazilian types of hair straightening is the use of creamy and rich emulsions to improve keratin cross-linking spreading and delivery to hair fiber. Due to the presence of oily and waxy components, it takes a lot of time to dry the hair before applying the heat and the hair is "fuming" and "smoking" during hot ironing stage. Besides, the penetration of keratin cross-linking agents is not efficient due to disturbance by the oily components of the hair straightening formulations.

It is therefore an object of this invention to provide a new aerosol hair straightening formulation in a foam delivery methodology as in mousses cream, whipped cream, which can be easily applied to the hair using pressure energy of compressed propellant-gas for better penetration of keratin cross- linking agents into the hair fiber, enabling a good distribution on the hair and without having the oily or waxy heavy residue on the hair. Compressed gas can achieve rich creamy texture almost without using any hard drying emulsion components of the formulation, which also leads to less fumes and smoke emission during the hair ironing stage

Substantially, using pressure energy of compressed propellant-gas, formol derivates or formol-free aldehydes or aldehyde-free compositions may be used to provide desirable reactions with the hair of the subject according to the treatment methods of the present invention. The treatment methods generally comprise substantially fast and uniform application of a formulation of the present invention to the hair of a subject, followed by elevating the temperature of the formulation on the hair by, for example, use of a hot hair iron, followed by removal of excess formulation. During hair treatment, the foamed emulsion of the ingredients is evenly coated on all the hair shafts. Then, the emulsion is allowed to saturate the hair shaft for about 10 to 30 minutes, for example. During this process, the reactions of available aldehyde groups or non-aldehyde actives with the sulfur groups on the proteins of the hair shaft occur, leading to film formation around the hair shaft. Slow polymerization reactions occur, driven by elevated temperature and the presence of oxygen. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the reaction of sulfur groups in the hair with reactive groups in the keratin cross-linking agent result in strong covalent bonds holding a keratin film in place around the hair shaft, strengthening the hair, filling in defects, and sealing the hair surface by the keratinaceous film. The amino-functionalized silicone compounds and other compounds present are also believed to form a coating that helps seal the shaft.

Surprisingly, it was found that aerosol mousse increases the effectiveness and flexibility of hair straightening process allowing to perform hair

straightening even at low temperatures such as 50-80 deg. C by the air- blower, without using high temperature hair ironing usually done at 200-230 deg.C.

Hair coloring is always a time consuming process that can be classified as: Permanent oxidative hair dyeing, Semi-Permanent non-oxidative hair dyeing and Temporary Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing, depending on the coloring methods and dyes chemistry.

Hair dyeing and hair straightening are always separate procedures that are done apart at different regimen and different time.

The current invention combines both disciplines in one action and one formulation - hair straightening and hair dyeing.

Surprisingly, these two actions can be combined and done at once at the same procedure.

Addition of hair dyeing to hair straightening solves both the problem of color fading that is very common at hair straightening procedures and serves as permanent oxidative, semi-permanent and temporary non-oxidative hair dyeing, such as removing yellowish effects in white, blond or bleached hairs. All Oxidation dyes precursors and Oxidation dyes couplers can be used in the current invention, providing non-oxidative hair dyeing simultaneously with keratin rearrangements typical to hair straightening. They can be used each type alone or in combination of a few types.

All direct dye types - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic, can be used in the current invention, providing non-oxidative hair dyeing simultaneously with keratin rearrangements typical to hair straightening. They can be used every type alone or in combination of a few types.

Basic or cationic dyes with low molar mass, water soluble, which have a high affinity for hair keratin penetrate slightly in the cortex. They permit reflective effects and are excellent for instantaneous color effects. Best dyeing effect considered at pH 6-9.

Acid dyes are large molecules that have anionic character and are suitable for temporary and semi-permanent applications, provide intense "crazy" shades and classic shades, are often used for Anti yellowish or Silver shampoo / shading products for previously colored hair. After bleaching, better long lasting results can be obtained versus smaller nitro dyes. The large molecule acid dyes once absorbed into the hair shaft show exceptional durability and washfastness. Successive applications give a gradual increase in the quantity of dyestuff fixed progressively intensifying the color. Dyeing effect is a function of the pH: best result at pH= 2 - 4.

Nitro dyes are small molecules with non-ionic character and poor water solubility. Nitro dyes are suitable for semi-permanent applications and in combination with other dyes and have vibrant highlights. Mixing nitro aniline dyes or acid dyes with basic or acid dyes aim for a better color result and a bigger resistance to washes, considering the high affinity of the two families of dyes. The hair space not filled with the basic dyes is occupied by nitro anilines, thus promoting a much more uniform color in the first application. The highly polar nitro anilines are diffused through the hair fiber and are retained by weak Van de Waals bonds. Under similar conditions, the larger molecules with tri aromatic rings are removed more slowly from the hair than the smaller, mononuclear ones.

Usually, optimal pH for dyeing with basic-cationic dyes is considered as 6.0- 9.0 but even at pH=1 .0, basic dyes perform hair dyeing simultaneously with hair straightening by glyoxylic acid formulation. The same hair dyeing simultaneously with hair straightening is achieved with acid and nitro dyes.

Hair straightening with formol (formaldehyde) combined with hair dyeing using direct dyes is even easier, because it can be done at 6.0-9.0 range.

Other dyes, such as metallic and vegetables derivatives, such as henna can also be used in simultaneous hair dyeing with straightening. Hair color stability and resistance to wash, is even enhanced by cuticles sealing, which occurs during hair straightening. Keratin rearrangements contributes to better "sealing" of dyes molecules which were already deposited and penetrated into the cortex and will prevent these molecules from "leaching" out of the hair fiber due to hair washing.

Among the advantages and benefits that can be achieved in some

embodiments of the present invention are:

1 . A foam formulation can use lower concentrations of keratin cross-linking agents, thus providing a method of treatment which does not expose hair to harsh chemicals such as high alkaline, strong oxidizing or reducing agents and high concentrations of aldehydes.

2. A method of treatment which effectively saturates the hair with keratin cross-linking agents before hot ironing step.

3. A method of treatment which increases the effectiveness by significantly reducing the duration of a treatment, relative to existing hair straightening processes.

4. A method of treatment which can easily use both formol derivates or (formol-free) aldehydes or aldehyde-free keratin cross-linking agents.

5. A method of treatment which prevents a long hair-drying stage before applying the heat of ironing.

6. A method of treatment which prevents the hair from "fuming" and "smoking" during hot ironing stage.

7. A method of treatment which prevents hair damage due to using lower temperatures than usual hot ironing stage. Thermal stage can be done by fan blower at temperatures of 70-80 deg.C instead of at 200-230 deg.C.

8. A solution and method which adds shine to hair using silicones and the phenol groups of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone.

9. A hair revitalizing and repairing solution and method of treatment which permits the user to swim and wash hair on the same day.

10. A solution and method for treating curly or damaged hair which is easy to use and practice and is safe and inexpensive.

1 1 . A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and hair dyes at the same single treatment. 12. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and oxidation dyes precursors and oxidation dyes couplers at the same single treatment.

13. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and direct basic-cationic hair dyes at the same single treatment.

14. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and direct acid- anionic hair dyes at the same single treatment.

15. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and direct nitro- aniline non-ionic hair dyes at the same single treatment.

16. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and direct metallic or pigment hair dyes at the same single treatment.

17. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations at the same single treatment.

18. A formulation which combines keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes at the same single treatment.

19. A method of treatment which can easily use both formol derivates or (formol-free) aldehydes or aldehyde-free keratin cross-linking agents in combination with various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes at the same single treatment.

20. A method of combined treatment of hair straightening and hair dyeing, which combines keratin cross-linking agents and various hair dyes, at various ratios and combinations, can be performed at various delivery formulations: Foams, sprays, emulsions, solutions and gels.

Formulation

All percentages herein are by weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. All ratios are weight ratios unless otherwise indicated. Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages, ratios, and levels of ingredients referred to herein are based on the actual amount of the raw material. Combined hair straightening and dyeing formulations

One or more aerosol hair straightening formulations are provided. These hair straightening formulations comprise as active ingredients an aerosol hair straightening formulation composition comprising:

(A) 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more silicone or other synthetic conditioners and emollients.

(B) 0.1 to 5% by weight of one or more cationic or non-ionic or amphoteric or anionic surfactants.

(C) 0.1 to 25% of one or more keratin cross-linking agents and mixtures thereof.

(D) 0.1 to 30% by weight of a propellant comprising one or more gases.

(E) 60.0 to 98% by weight of water.

(F) 0.1 to 20% by weight of one or more cationic or acidic or non-ionic or metallic salt hair dyes.

In one embodiment, the hair straightening is performed by reaction of a low- molecular weight aldehyde such as formol or glutaraldehyde or with other suitable aldehydes such as glyoxal with hair keratin.

In some embodiments, the hair straightening is performed by reaction of non- aldehyde cross-linking agents, such as Glyoxyloyl Carbocisteine, Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Glyoxilic acid, Cysteamine Hydrochloride.

The formulations may also comprise one or more amino acids, hair

conditioning agents, fragrance.

The essential ingredients as well as a non-exclusive variety of preferred and optional ingredients are described below.

Surfactants and Emulsifiers

Ingredients which may be included in these hair straightening formulations are one or more cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or anionic surfactants and emulsifiers. Surfactants are surface-active agents that are able to reduce the surface tension of water and cause the product to slip across or onto the skin. Surfactants also include detergents and soap and are responsible for foam creation together with propellant. In one embodiment, the surfactants are nonionic. Anionic or cationic or amphoteric surfactants may be used as well. Cationic surfactants preferably used in the compositions of the present invention, contain amino or quaternary ammonium moieties. Suitable amine salts include the halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, citrate, lactate, and alkyl sulfate salts.

Surfactants that may be used comprise, or alternatively include but are not limited to:

Cocamidopropyl betaine, Cocamidopropylamine oxide, ammonium C12-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate, apricot kernel oil PEG-6 esters, C1 1 -15 pareth-12, C1 1 -15 pareth-20, C1 1 -15 pareth-30, C1 1 -15 pareth-40, C1 1 -15 pareth-9, C1 1 -21 -pareth-10, C12-13 pareth-7, C12-15 pareth-1 1 , C12-15 pareth-12, C12-15 pareth-9, C14-15 pareth-13, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, cocamide MIPA, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred cationic surfactants are Genamin® CTAC, i.e., cetyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, diesterquats as for example dipalmitylethyl dimethylammoniumchloride (Armocare VGH70 of Akzo),

The surfactants and emulsifiers may be present in an amount of about 0.1 %- 5.0% by weight with a preferred range of about 1 .0%-3.0% by weight.

Conditioning and Emollient Agents

Further ingredients of the present hair straightening formulations are one or more conditioners and/or emollients. Emollients used comprise one or more of: a silicone compound (e.g., amodimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, cationic silicone polymer, Amine-functional silicones), a triglyceride such as

caprylic/capric triglyceride and fatty acid ester such as cetearyl isononanoate. Silicone conditioning agent is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase or insoluble but in the form of microemulsion or water soluble silicone derivative.

Soluble silicones include silicone copolyols, such as dimethicone copolyols, polyether siloxane-modified polymers, such as polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane, wherein the level of ethylene and/or propylene oxide is sufficient to allow solubility in the composition. For enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, the present hair straightening formulation may use highly arylated silicones, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive indices of about 1 .46 or higher, preferably about 1 .52 or higher.

Suitable silicones are silicone gums, polydimethyl siloxane,

polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane, for example from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid or diquaternary silikones as for example INCI Quaternium-80 (e.g., Abil® Quat 3272 of Th. Goldschmidt AG). The silicone hair conditioning agent can be used in the compositions hereof at levels of from about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention can also contain one or more cationic polymer conditioning agents. The cationic polymer conditioning agent is preferably water soluble.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone.

Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-1 1 ) such as those commercially available from Ashland under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GA17QUAT 755N); Cationic cellulose is available from AkzoNobel in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-10.

Useful are also imidazolidinyl derivatives as for example INCI Quaternium-87 (Rewoquat® W 575 from Evonic.

Propellants

Also it is preferred that carbon dioxide as the sole propellant (blowing agent) or in combination with other propellants, such as e.g., propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, N20 and water steam, may also be present without disadvantage.

The amount of propellant is preferably 0.5% to 30.0% by weight, more preferably 1 .0% to 20.0% by weight, and most preferably 10.0% to 15.0% by weight of the composition.

The composition is applied as foam from an aerosol dispenser under C02 pressure that can be generated by effervescent reaction of a solid alkali metal carbonate and/or bicarbonate (I) with the acidified composition or by heating solid bicarbonate.

According to embodiments of the invention the composition may be applied as foam from an aerosol dispenser under water steam pressure that can be generated by heating water.

Water Phase

The water phase preferably contains about 60% to about 98% by weight, more preferably from about 85% to about 96% by weight, and most preferably from about 90% to about 95% by weight of water.

The water phase can optionally include other liquid, water-miscible, or water- soluble solvents such as lower alkyl alcohols, e.g., C1 -C5 alkyl monohydric alcohols, preferably C2-C3 alkyl alcohols.

A wide variety of additional small amount ingredients can be formulated into the present composition. These include: other conditioning agents, e.g., betaine, amino acids, peptides, proteines and vitamines; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, formic acid, glyoxylic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, one or more

preservatives, fragrances and antioxidants.

Examples of such preservatives comprise one or more ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, benzoic acid.

Such optional ingredients generally are used individually at levels from about 0.01 % to about 1 .0%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% of the composition. The compositions of the present invention preferably have a pH of from about 1 .0 to about 1 1 .0, more preferably from about 1 to about 7.0, depending on keratin cross-linking agent used. Keratin Cross-Linking Agents

In various embodiments, present in physiologically tolerable amounts, the aldehyde cross-linking agents are selected from the group consisting of: Formaldehyde (methanal), 1 ,3,5-Trioxane, Acetaldehyde (ethanal),

Propionaldehyde (propanal), Butyraldehyde (butanal), Benzaldehyde, Cinnamaldehyde, Tolualdehyde, Furfural, Retinaldehyde, Octanal, Glyoxal, Malondialdehyde, Succindialdehyde, Glutaraldehyde(glyceral),

Phthalaldehyde, Dialdehyde starch, Glycolaldehyde dimer, Adipaldehyde, Lodopropynyl Buytlcarbamate Glyoxal, Galactose dialdehyde, Vanillin glyceraldehydes.

Other embodiments include chemicals selected from non-aldehydes and the like, present in physiologically tolerable amounts:

Dihydroxyacetone, Dimethylol ethyleneurea, Dimethyl Urea, Glyoxyloyl Carbocisteine, Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Glyoxilic acid, Cysteamine Hydrochloride.

In fact, since the effect is mediated by the Maillard Reaction and cross-linking of the keratin fibers, all other Maillard reactants and cross-linking agents can also be potentially substituted for the above list and may thereby assist in the formation of a sealing layer around the hair shaft. This chemical cross-linking effect can involve sugars, such as dihydroxyacetone, acetones and ethers that undergo the Maillard reaction. Chemical compounds which are known to be useable as fixatives for cross-linking keratin (or collagen) besides the aldehydes, include hexamethylene diisocyanate and certain polyepoxy compounds, imidoesters, N-hydroxysuccinimide-esters, maleimides, haloacetyls, pyridyl disulfides, hydrazides, carbodiimides, and aryl azides. Representative epoxy-type reactants include epihalohydrins, e.g.,

epichlorohydrin and epibromohydrin with epichlorohydrin being the preferred epihalohydrin, diepoxides, e.g., 1 ,4-butanediol-diglycidyl ethers, and precursors of epihalohydrins and diepoxides, e.g., 1 ,3-dichloropropanol-2 and 1 ,4-dichloro-2,3-dihydroxybutane.

Polyepoxy compounds which have heretofore been known for use as collagen cross linking agents are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,806,959 (Noishiki et al.) and 5,080,670 (Imamura et al.). At least some of these heretofore-known polyepoxy fixatives are commercially available under the trademark

Denacol™ from Nagase Chemicals, Ltd., Osaka, Japan. For example

Denacol Ex-810, Denacol Ex-313 and Dencacol Ex-314.

In general, cross-linking agents of low molecular weight cause relatively fast cross-linking of keratin while cross-linking agents of high molecular weight are relatively slow acting in this regard. Thus, at a given temperature and pressure, the cross-link density or number of cross-linkages formed may be affected by both time of exposure of the fixative (i.e., cross-linking agent) solution and the molecular weight (or molecular weight distribution) of the particular cross linking agent(s) being used. Additionally, the crosslink density or number of cross linkages formed in the keratin network may be affected by other factors including a) the concentration of the cross-linking agent in the fixative solution, b) the pH of the fixative solution, and c) any alteration or change in the physical conditions such as temperature and pressure.

The keratin cross-linking agent may be present in an amount of about 0.1 to 50% by weight. In a preferred embodiment, the cross-linking agent is present in the amount of about 1 .0-25.0% by weight.

Heat

A commercially available hot iron comb with a maximum temperature of 450 degrees Fahrenheit can be used to heat the hair after the application of the hair fixative.

Dyes

Oxidation dyes precursors:

COVASTYLE LP-PPD (p-phenylenediamine), COVASTYLE PPDS (p- phenylenediamine sulfate), COVASTYLE PAP(p-aminophenol), Jarocol 4A3MP(4-Amino-m-cresol), Jarocol AHP(1 -Hydroxyethyl-4,5-Diaminopyrazole sulfate), Jarocol BHP(N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate), Jarocol BTX(Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate), Jarocol PAP(p- Aminophenol), Jarocol PMAP(p-Methylaminophenol sulfate), Jarocol PPD(p- Phenylenediamine), Jarocol TAP(Tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate), Jarocol TDS(Toluene-2, 5-diamine sulfate).

Oxidation dyes couplers:

Covastyle MAP(m-aminophenol), COVASTYLE RCN(resorcinol),

COVASTYLE AHEAS(2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate),

COVASTYLE 2-4 DAPE(2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCI), COVASTYLE LP- AHT(4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene), COVASTYLE LP-4CLR(4-chlororesorcinol), Jarocol 2A3HP(2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine), Jarocol 2M5AP(4-Amino-2- hydroxytoluene), Jarocol 2M5HEAP(2-Methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol), Jarocol 2MR(2-Methylresorcinol), Jarocol ACC(5-Amino-6-chloro-o-cresol), Jarocol AHEA(2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate), Jarocol AN(1 - Naphthol), Jarocol DPE (2HCI) (2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol dihydrochloride), Jarocol DPE (H2SO4) (2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol sulfate), Jarocol MAP(m- Aminophenol), Jarocol PMP(Phenyl methyl pyrazolone), Jarocol

RL(Resorcinol), Jarocol 4CLR(4-Chlororesorcinol).

Basic direct dyes:

306002 Arianor Mahogany(Basic Brown 16), 306003 Arianor Madder Red or Jarocol Madder Red(Basic Red 76), 306005 Arianor Straw Yellow or Jarocol Straw Yellow(Basic Yellow 57), 306008 Arianor Cherry Red or Jarocol Cherry Red(Basic Red 51 ), 30601 1 Arianor Sienna Brown or Jarocol Sienna Brown (Basic Brown 17), 306014 Arianor Steel Blue or Jarocol Steel Blue(Basic Blue 99), Arianor Lemon Yellow 306087 or Jarocol Citrus Yellow(Basic Yellow 87), Arianor Fire Orange 306081 (Basic Orange 51 ), Arianor Magenta 306082 (Basic Violet 2), Jarocol Flame Orange (Basic Orange 31 ), Jarocol

Mahogany(Basic Brown 16), etc.

Acid direct dyes: Jarocol Violet 43 or UNICERT VIOLET K71 16-J (Acid Violet 43), UNICERT BLUE 05601 -J(ACID BLUE 9), UNICERT ORANGE K701 1 -J(ACID ORANGE 7), PONCEAU 4R 80% E124-C(ACID RED 18), Unicert Yellow 08005-J(Acid Yellow 23), Jaune de quinoleine 70% E104-C(Acid Yellow 3), Unicert Orange K701 1 -J(Acid Orange 7), Unicert Red K7057-J(Acid Red 33), Unicert Yellow K7164-J(Acid Yellow 1 ), Unicert Red K7054-J (Acid Red 92), Noir W699(Acid Black 1 ), FD&C Red 40 07700-C(Curry Red), Ponceau 4R 80% E124-C(Acid Red 18), Rose Covasol W4002(Acid Red 52), Unicert Green K7015-J(Acid Green 25), etc. Nitro direct dyes:

Jarocol Yellow 2 or Jaune W 1 122 (HC Yellow 2), Jarocol Red 3 or Rouge W 3123 (HC Red 3), Rouge W 3127 or Jarocol Red BN(4-hydroxypropylamino- 3-nitrophenol), Jarocol Violet 14D or Pourpre W 512 (N,N'-bis(2- hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine), Jarocol Blue 2 or Bleu W 6122-LP (HC Blue 2), Arianor Jade Blue 306085(HC Blue No. 15), Jarocol Red 13(HC Red 13), Jarocol Yellow 5(HC Yellow 5), Jarocol Blue 15 (HC Blue 15), Jarocol Blue 12 (HC Blue 12), Jarocol 2NPPD(2-Nitro-p-phenylenediamine), Jarocol NHEAP(3-Nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol), Jarocol 4A3NP(4- Amino-3-nitrophenol), Jarocol 4NOPD(4-Nitro-o-phenylenediamine), Jarocol HNT(Hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-p-toluidine), etc.

Pigments Dispersions

Hair shading coloring concept with surface treated pigments is given by pigment surface deposition and/or adsorption in an optimized base

composition. Can be combined with basic hair dyes. Covarine Black WS9199 Dispersion of carbon black (D&C Black No.2), UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 GCA, Natural triple amino-acid surface treated UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 GCA (CI77492 sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) l-cystine (and) lauroyl arginine), UNIPURE RED LC381 GCA (CI77491 , sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) l-cystine (and) lauroyl Arginine) UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 GCA (CI77499, sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) I- cystine (and) lauroyl arginine), UNIPURE WHITE LC987 GCA (CI77891 , sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) l-cystine (and) lauroyl arginine). Metallic and natural plant derived hair dyes

Minerals such as lead acetate (<1 % aqueous), lead sulfide (kohl); silver nitrate; salts of bismuth, copper, and cobalt (commonly called "gradual" colorants), Chromium Hydroxide Green, Bronze Powder, Copper Powder, Iron Oxides

Vegetable materials such as henna (flowers and leaves of Lawsonia inermis that contain acidic naphthoquinone), Woad (Isatis tinctoria), Walnut (Juglans regia), Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria), Cassia obovata,

Catechu(Ourouparia gambir and Acacia catechu), Saffron also called Sadr (Crocus sativus L), Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis), Rhubarb Root (Rheum rhapoticum),

One or more of the methods comprise the following steps

In general, from about 1 g to about 50 g of the composition of the present invention is applied to the hair. The composition is distributed throughout the hair, typically by rubbing or massaging the hair and scalp with ones' hands or by another's hands.

A method for straightening hair comprising:

(a) washing said hair with shampoo to obtain washed relaxed hair;

(b) drying the washed hair of step (a) to obtain dried hair;

(c) applying the hair straightening formulation to the dried hair of step (b) to obtain treated hair;

(d) combing the treated hair of step (c) to obtain efficient spreading and absorption of cross-linking agents in hair;

(e) maintaining the treated hair in step (d) for a sufficient amount of time to obtain absorption and cross-linking of hair;

(f) rinsing the treated hair in step (e) with water to remove all treatment formulation residue and traces from hair;

(g) slightly drying with a towel the washed hair of step (f) to obtain semi-dried hair;

(h) hot ironing or hot air blowing the treated hair to obtain straightened hair; (*) optionally applying Rebonding Mask strand/tress by strand/tress, using a tint brush; gently combing the strands/tresses; leaving the mixture in the hair for at least 30 minutes; rinsing with abundant warm water, until the product has been completely removed.

(i) washing the hair of step (h) with shampoo;

(j) rinsing the shampooed hair of step (i) with conditioner for a sufficient amount of time, to obtain conditioned hair;

Step (e) is maintained for not more than 30 minutes.

In some methods, steps (f) and (g) and (j) can be skipped.

Formulation Examples

The following examples illustrate the present invention.

All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions. The levels given reflect the weight percent of the active material, unless otherwise specified.

Example 1

Figure imgf000028_0001
Wherein the composition has a pH of 4 to 7. Example 2

Figure imgf000029_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of 4 to 7. Example 3

Figure imgf000029_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of 4 to 7. Example 4

Figure imgf000030_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 4 to 7. Example 5

Figure imgf000030_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0. Example 6

Figure imgf000031_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0.

Example 7

Figure imgf000031_0002
Figure imgf000032_0003

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1 .0 to 2.0.

Figure imgf000032_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1 .0 to 2.0.

Figure imgf000032_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1 .0 to 2.0.

Figure imgf000033_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0.

Figure imgf000033_0002
Figure imgf000034_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1 .0 to 2.0.

Example 12

Figure imgf000034_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1 .0 to 2.0.

Example 13

Figure imgf000034_0003

Figure imgf000035_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0.

Example 14

Figure imgf000035_0001
Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0.

Example 15

Figure imgf000036_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0.

Example 16(a)

Figure imgf000036_0002

Figure imgf000037_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0. Gives a rich shade of auburn. Example 16(b)

Figure imgf000037_0001

Figure imgf000038_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 3.0-4.0

Figure imgf000039_0001
Figure imgf000040_0001

Figure imgf000041_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 3.0-4.0

Figure imgf000041_0001
Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0. Gives a rich shade of dark brown.

Example 18(b)

Figure imgf000042_0001

Figure imgf000043_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 3.0-4.0

Figure imgf000043_0002

Figure imgf000044_0002

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 1.0 to 2.0. Gives a rich shade of dark brown.

Example 19(b)

Figure imgf000044_0001
Figure imgf000045_0001
Figure imgf000046_0001

Wherein the composition has a pH of from 3.0-4.0 Half Head Test

Further half head tests done by stylists show performance advantages of the aerosol mousse according to the present invention examples. The aerosol mousse performs much more efficiently in comparison to the same

concentration of keratin cross-linking active delivered in common emulsion platform. Half-head comparisons enable the hairstylist to evaluate the effects of hair products in comparison with a defined standard. This involves a sample of the test product being applied to the head of one model, and then being directly compared to a comparison sample or the untreated hair according to various technical hairstyling criteria. This test is termed a half- head comparison because the test samples are applied to one half the head respectively, thus enabling a direct comparison under absolutely identical test conditions (identical hair structure, degree of damage, hair color etc.).

A hot iron comb with a wide-tooth comb as commonly used in the hair care business was used to evaluate the effects. The hair characteristics of the clients receiving the hair relaxing treatment were as follows:

TEXTURE: Medium DENSITY: Thick/dense CURL PATTERN: Slightly wavy LENGTH: Above shoulder COLOR-TREATED: Permanent % OF GRAY: None PRIOR STRAIGHTENING: None

The dried straightened hair was evaluated with respect to the presence of electrostatic charge scatter at low humidity of about 40% Relative Humidity, 72 degree F. and at high humidity of about 80% Relative humidity, 72 degrees F. The straightening formulation was tested using a blow dryer to evaluate the silkiness.

The results indicated clearly that the aerosol mousse according to the present invention leads to better distribution in the hair during the application, faster absorption and hair drying, and more intense hair shine. Analysis of the hair immediately after the hair relaxing treatment showed the hair was straightened in a satisfactory manner with minimal damage. All five clients stated that the hair felt less thick and heavy. The analysis of the hair (every two weeks for up to three months) after the hair relaxing treatment showed that the hair was in good condition, silky and straight, although it felt a bit dry and perceptively dry to the touch. No frizzing or curling was found up to 2 inches from the root of the hairs. Scatter and wind free-scatter response was tested to determine the silkiness and smoothness of the hair. The hair flow and shine responded just like natural straight silky hair does. The conclusion was that the formulation with the addition of heat yields very good hair straightening and very little damage to the hair for a prolonged period of time.

Claims

1 . An aerosol composition comprising:
synthetic conditioners and emollients;
cationic or non-ionic or amphoteric or anionic surfactants and emulsifiers;
keratin cross-linking agents;
propellant comprising one or more gases;
water phase; and
one or more cationic or acidic or non-ionic or metallic salt hair dyes.
2. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said synthetic conditioners and emollients comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of said aerosol composition.
3. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said surfactants comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of said aerosol composition.
4. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said keratin cross-linking agents comprise 0.1 to 25% by weight of said aerosol composition.
5. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said propellants comprise 0.1 to 30% by weight of said aerosol composition.
6. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said water phase
comprises 60.0 to 98% by weight of said aerosol composition.
7. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said hair dyes comprise 0.1 to 20% by weight of said aerosol composition.
8. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , further comprising one or more amino acids.
9. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , further comprising hair conditioning agents.
10. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , further comprising fragrance.
1 1 . The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said emollients comprise one or more of: a silicone compound, a triglyceride and fatty acid ester.
12. The aerosol composition of claim 1 1 , wherein said silicones comprise soluble silicones comprising one or more of: silicone copolyols, polyether siloxane-modified polymers and polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane.
13. The aerosol composition of claim 1 1 , wherein said silicones comprise highly arylated silicones.
14. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , further comprising one or more cationic polymer conditioning agents.
15. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said cationic surfactants contain amino or quaternary ammonium moieties.
16. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said propellant comprises carbon dioxide.
17. The aerosol composition of claim 16, wherein said propellant further comprises at least one of: propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether,
N20 and water steam.
18. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said water phase
comprises water-miscible, or water-soluble solvents.
19. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , having a pH of from 1 .0 to 1 1.
20. The aerosol composition of claim 1 , wherein said keratin cross-linking agents comprise one of aldehyde cross-linking agents and non- aldehyde cross-linking agents.
21 . A method of straightening and dyeing hair comprising:
(a) washing the hair with shampoo;
(b) drying said washed;
(c) applying the hair straightening formulation of claim 1 to said dried hair;
(d) combing the treated hair of step (c) to obtain efficient spreading and absorption of cross-linking agents in hair;
(e) maintaining the treated hair in step (d) for a sufficient amount of time to obtain absorption and cross-linking of hair;
(f) hot ironing or hot air blowing the treated hair to obtain straightened hair;
(*) optionally applying Rebonding Mask strand/tress by strand/tress; and
(g) washing the straightened hair of step (f) with aerosol.
22. The method of claim 21 , wherein said step (e) is maintained for not more than 30 minutes.
23. The method of claim 21 , further comprising, after said step (e), rinsing the treated hair in step (e) with water to remove from hair all treatment formulation residue and traces.
24. The method of claim 23, further comprising drying said washed hair.
25. The method of claim 21 , further comprising, after said step (g), rinsing the shampooed hair of step (g) with conditioner for a sufficient amount of time, to obtain conditioned hair.
26. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
27. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and oxidation dyes precursors and oxidation dyes couplers for use in a single treatment.
28. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct basic- cationic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
29. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct acid- anionic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
30. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct nitro- aniline non-ionic hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
31 . A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and direct metallic or pigment hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
32. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations for use in a single treatment.
33. A formulation combining keratin cross-linking agents and various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes for use in a single treatment.
34. A method of hair treatment using formol derivates or (formol-free) aldehydes or aldehyde-free keratin cross-linking agents in combination with various direct hair dyes - basic-cationic, acid anionic and nitro-aniline non-ionic at various ratios and combinations and metallic or pigment hair dyes in a single treatment.
35. A method of combined treatment of hair straightening and hair dyeing, which combines keratin cross-linking agents and various hair dyes, at various ratios and combinations, said method performed in a delivery formulations selected from the group consisting of: foam, spray, emulsion, solution and gel.
PCT/IB2017/054748 2016-08-15 2017-08-03 Hair straightening combined with color correction using aerosol foam delivery WO2018033821A1 (en)

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US62/374,933 2016-08-15

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Citations (8)

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US6958080B2 (en) * 1999-12-02 2005-10-25 Lion Corporation Compositions for dyeing keratinous fiber
DE102005042411A1 (en) * 2005-09-06 2006-08-03 Henkel Kgaa Hair treating kit, useful for natural and multi-tonal hair coloring, comprises a coloring compartment containing a hair-coloring agent; and a stain protecting compartment containing a stain-protecting agent with a defined melting point
US7780742B2 (en) * 2006-12-20 2010-08-24 L'oreal S.A. Composition comprising a compound X and A compound Y, at least one of which is a silicone, and a hydrophobic direct dye
US7811335B2 (en) * 2005-06-16 2010-10-12 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corp. Styryl sulfide dyes
US20110104089A1 (en) * 2009-11-02 2011-05-05 Symrise Ag Compositions comprising fragrance substances and neopentyl glycol diisononanoate
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5468256A (en) * 1992-08-19 1995-11-21 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Substitute 4-{4'-{bis-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino{phenylazo{-benzenesulfonic acid amides and hair dye compositions containing same
US6958080B2 (en) * 1999-12-02 2005-10-25 Lion Corporation Compositions for dyeing keratinous fiber
US7811335B2 (en) * 2005-06-16 2010-10-12 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corp. Styryl sulfide dyes
DE102005042411A1 (en) * 2005-09-06 2006-08-03 Henkel Kgaa Hair treating kit, useful for natural and multi-tonal hair coloring, comprises a coloring compartment containing a hair-coloring agent; and a stain protecting compartment containing a stain-protecting agent with a defined melting point
US7780742B2 (en) * 2006-12-20 2010-08-24 L'oreal S.A. Composition comprising a compound X and A compound Y, at least one of which is a silicone, and a hydrophobic direct dye
US20110104089A1 (en) * 2009-11-02 2011-05-05 Symrise Ag Compositions comprising fragrance substances and neopentyl glycol diisononanoate
US9326926B2 (en) * 2014-05-16 2016-05-03 Liqwd, Inc. Keratin treatment formulations and methods
CN105496804A (en) * 2015-12-25 2016-04-20 知识产权全资有限公司 Formula for hair treatment and head psoriasis treatment, reagent kit thereof and application

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