WO2017101103A1 - Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion - Google Patents

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017101103A1
WO2017101103A1 PCT/CN2015/097867 CN2015097867W WO2017101103A1 WO 2017101103 A1 WO2017101103 A1 WO 2017101103A1 CN 2015097867 W CN2015097867 W CN 2015097867W WO 2017101103 A1 WO2017101103 A1 WO 2017101103A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
crosslinking
oil
polymer
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PCT/CN2015/097867
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French (fr)
Inventor
Xiaoming Wu
Saijuan NI
Xiuxia Wang
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L'oreal
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Publication date
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Priority to CN201580085411.8A priority Critical patent/CN108601713A/en
Priority to PCT/CN2015/097867 priority patent/WO2017101103A1/en
Publication of WO2017101103A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017101103A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001Preparations for care of the lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, more particularly, the present invention relates to a composition with an improved optical effect, in particular blur effect.
  • compositions for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
  • Document FR-2 843 695 describes O/W emulsions containing an amphiphilic polymer of non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and an oil content of greater than 40%by weight.
  • an amount of oily phase leads to a greasy and shiny effect during application to the skin, which the user may find unacceptable.
  • O/W emulsions comprising an amphiphilic polymer, such as a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid derivative, and an oil content of less than 30%, are known from FR 2 927 252.
  • one of the ultimate goals of a cosmetic composition is to reduce the appearance of imperfection on the skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pores on the skin. This goal can be achieved by formulating compositions with good optical effect, and in particular, blur effect.
  • an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer (s) , organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) , two mattifying fillers comprising talc (s) and cellulose microbeads.
  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • a composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects.
  • the composition according to the invention has an improved optical effect.
  • the optical effect refers to the blur effect.
  • Blu effect we intend to mean the effect of reducing the appearance of imperfection of the skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
  • the blur effect is characterized by instrumental measurement of transmittance, haze, and opacity of the composition according to the invention.
  • the transmittance (TH) and haze are measured by the machine Haze-gard Plus sold by the company BYK.
  • the measurement is conducted by preparing a film the composition of the invention with a thickness of 25 ⁇ m using the machine Elcometer 4340 Automatic Film Applicator on a transparent film (BYK Byko-charts clear polyester-2mil #2871) .
  • the opacity of the composition of the present invention is measured by the device Chromameter CR-400 produced by the company Konica Minolta, and L*values were obtained.
  • the opacity value is calculated by the following equation:
  • the measurement is conducted by preparing a film containing the composition of the present invention with a thickness of 50 ⁇ m, using the machine Elcometer 4340 Automatic Film Applicator, on a black/white card (Erichsen Typ24/5) .
  • the composition has a transmittance (TH) of greater than or equal 90, a haze of greater than or equal to 85, preferably greater than or equal to 90, and a opacity of less than or equal to 8.
  • composition of the present invention is stable over time.
  • composition as such provides to the skin a great comfort of use, such as softness, emollience, hydration, and freshness.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, in particular the human skin and lips, comprising at least a step of applying to the said keratin materials a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as described above in reducing the appearance of imperfections on a keratin material, the imperfection comprises fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
  • the term “keratin material” is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails.
  • the skin and the lips, in particular facial skin, are most particularly considered according to the invention.
  • particle size of mattifying fillers means volume-median diameter, which is measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
  • the term "mean size of the oil globules” means the effective volume-mean diameter D [4.3] of the said globules, as measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an effective particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles” , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • V i represents the volume of the particles of effective diameter d i . This parameter is in particular described in the technical documentation of the particle size analyser.
  • the measurements are performed at 25°C after diluting the composition by a factor of greater than 100 with osmosed water.
  • the "effective" diameter is obtained by specifying the refractive indices of water and of the fatty phase as a function of its nature.
  • the mean size of the oil globules may range from 15 to 500 ⁇ m, preferentially from 15 to 300 ⁇ m and better still from 15 to 150 ⁇ m.
  • crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized is understood to mean a homopolymer derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, which is crosslinked and which is practically fully neutralized or which is fully neutralized.
  • These polymers are water-soluble or are swellable in water.
  • the polymers used in the composition of the invention are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:
  • X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, it being possible for at most 10 mol%of the cations X + to be protons H + ;
  • the polymers of the invention comprise a number of units of formula (I) in a sufficiently high quantity to obtain particles of polymer whose hydrodynamic volume in solution in water has a radius ranging from 10 to 500 nm and whose distribution is homogeneous and unimodal.
  • the polymers used in the composition according to the invention which are more particularly preferred comprise from 98 to 99.5%by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.5 to 2%by weight of crosslinking units.
  • X + represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation which is the equivalent of that of an alkaline-earth metal or the ammonium ion.
  • 90 to 100 mol%of the cations are NH 4 + cations and 0 to 10 mol%are protons (H) + .
  • the crosslinking monomers having at least two olefin double bonds are chosen, for example, from the propylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyl oxethanoyl or other polyfunctional allyl or vinyl ether alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene-bis-acrylamide or divinylbenzene.
  • crosslinking monomers having at least two olefin double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (II) :
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl and more particularly methyl.
  • the crosslinking monomer is preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate (compound of formula II where R 1 is hydrogen) .
  • the polymers particularly preferred are those having a viscosity measured with a BROOKFIELD viscometer, No. 4 rotor, at a rotating speed of 100 revolutions/minute in a solution in water at 2%and at a temperature of about 25°C, greater than or equal to 1 000 cps (or 1 000 mPa.s) and more preferably ranging from 5 000 to 40 000 cps (5 000 to 40 000 mPa.s) and more particularly from 6 500 to 35 000 cps (6 500 to 35 000 mPa.s) .
  • the crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention may be obtained according to the method of preparation comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH 3 , in a quantity which makes it possible to obtain a level of neutralization of the sulphonic acid functional groups of the polymer ranging from 90 to 100%;
  • a conventional free-radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitating in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.
  • the crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention may be in particular the product marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate) .
  • CTFA name ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate
  • the crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10%by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5%by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, also referred to as “silicone elastomer” in the remainder of the description, preferably that is at least partially crosslinked.
  • the term “elastomer” is understood to mean a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or of a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited ability to expand and to contract. This material is capable of returning to its original shape after it has been stretched.
  • This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition according to the invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked. They are in the form of particles.
  • These particles may have any shape, for example they may be spherical, flat or amorphous.
  • these organopolysiloxane elastomers become transformed, depending on the content of oily phase used, into a product of spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of small amounts of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of larger amounts of oily phase.
  • the gelation of the oily phase with these elastomers may be total or partial.
  • the elastomers of the invention may be conveyed in the form of an anhydrous gel consisting of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and of an oily phase.
  • the oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous gel of organopolysiloxane elastomer contains one or more oils that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils.
  • the oily phase is a silicone liquid phase, containing one or more oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing a linear or cyclic chain, which are liquid at room temperature, optionally comprising an alkyl or aryl chain that is pendent or at the end of the chain, the alkyl chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • organopolysiloxanes elastomers used according to the invention may be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886 and from those described in patent US-A-5 266 321.
  • non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which may be obtained:
  • the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction:
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of a methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C) .
  • the compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C 2 -C 4 ) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups.
  • the organopolysiloxane (A) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred.
  • the compound (A) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
  • the compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the organopolysiloxanes (A) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinyl-siloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes having di-methylvinylsiloxy end groups and di
  • the compound (B) is, in particular, an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogens bonded to the silicon in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A) .
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon per molecule of the compound (B) is at least 4.
  • the compound (B) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • the compound (B) may have a viscosity, at 25°C, ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to be highly miscible with the compound (A) .
  • the compound (B) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon in the compound (B) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A) is within the range of 1/1 to 20/1.
  • the compound (B) may be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups and cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.
  • the compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid/alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum-on-support.
  • the catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as actual platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B) .
  • organic groups may be bonded to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) described previously, such as for example alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl groups; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl groups; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl groups; substituted aryl groups such as a phenylethyl group; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl groups
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl groups
  • aryl groups such as phen
  • the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil in order to form a gel.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition of the invention may be, for example, those sold under the names KSG 6 by Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow Corning; Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by Grant Industries, or those sold in the form of gels that are already formed: KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel and Gransil RPC from Grant Industries; 1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168 from General Electric.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of crosslinked organopoly-siloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane such as, for example, Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from Grant Industries.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) used according to the invention are present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05%to 10%, preferably from 0.1%to 7%and better still from 0.1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises a combination of mattifying fillers consisting of talc and cellulose microbeads.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
  • fillers which are mineral or organic in nature, make it possible to confer, on the composition, softness, mattness and uniformity on the skin.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar (or platelet) , spherical (or globular) form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the term "spherical particles” means particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C) .
  • lamellar particles means herein particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface) , discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface) , characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, these particles being insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C) .
  • the mineral and/or organic mattifying fillers are preferably chosen from diffusing fillers.
  • fillers means divided solid particles, i.e. particles in powder form. These fillers generally have a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the term "diffusing filler” denotes a spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous particle with a refractive index of less than or equal to 2, especially less than or equal to 1.8 and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.
  • the refractive index of the particles may be evaluated by the contrast erasure method.
  • two totally miscible solvents with relatively remote refractive indices ethanol: 1.36, and phenylethyl alcohol: 1.529
  • the particles under consideration are suspended in these various solvent mixtures and the transparency of these solutions is then evaluated using a Hach turbidimeter sold by the company Hach.
  • the refractive index of the particle is equal to that of the solvent mixture for which the least turbid solution is obtained, i.e. the solution with the least cloudiness and which corresponds to the minimum refractive index difference between the particles and the solvent mixture.
  • the "diffusing fillers" according to the invention generally have a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the “diffusing fillers” are spherical.
  • the “diffusing fillers” are porous.
  • the specific surface area of the particles which may be related to the porosity, is greater than10 m 2 /g and preferably greater than 50 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) .
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the “diffusing fillers” are mattifying and/or "soft-focus” fillers.
  • mattifying or “soft-focus” filler means filler which gives the complexion more transparency and a hazy effect and give the skin a good appearance, without conferring on it a greasy, gleaming and shiny appearance.
  • fillers generally termed mattifying fillers are used, which are most often absorbent fillers such as talc, silica, kaolin or fillers having light scattering optical properties, which properties are known under the name “soft focus” effect.
  • the mattifying power of the compositions containing them may be characterized by means of the following protocol.
  • the test composition is spread out at a rate of 2 mg/cm 2 on a contrast card (Pruf badge type 24/5-250 cm 2 sold by the company Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader.
  • the composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37°C prior to measurement of its reflection using a gonioreflectometer sold by the company Micromodule.
  • the intensity reflected specularly at 30° (R) and scattered at 90° (D) are successively measured.
  • the result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection.
  • the value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect afforded by the filler.
  • a value of R of less than or equal to 2 generally indicates a mattifying effect.
  • the composition comprises at least two mattifying fillers consisting of at least one talc and cellulose microbeads.
  • composition of the present invention comprises, as one mattifying filler, at least one talc.
  • Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising a portion of aluminum silicate.
  • the crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises micronized talc, or micronized magnesium silicate.
  • the micronized magnesium silicate has a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 10 ⁇ m, more preferably less than or equal to 7 ⁇ m.
  • micronized magnesium silicate with volume-median diameter of 5 ⁇ m or less sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs sold under the names Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, Pharma UM (volume-median diameter of 3.6 ⁇ m) by Imerys and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
  • the talc is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises, as the other mattifying filler, cellulose microbeads.
  • cellulose microbeads refers to cellulose particles in spherical form with a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the volume-median diameter of the cellulose microbeads are less than or equal to 10 ⁇ m.
  • the cellulose microbeads of the present invention may be porous or non-porous.
  • the cellulose microbeads are porous.
  • the porosity of the cellulose microbeads may be characterized by a specific surface area of from 10 m 2 /g to 1,500 m 2 /g, more preferably from 50 m 2 /g to 1,000 m 2 /g, and even more preferably from 50 m 2 /g to 500 m 2 /g according to the BET method.
  • the cellulose microbeads that may be used is not limited by the type of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II, or the like.
  • type II cellulose is preferable.
  • the cellulose microbeads can be prepared, for example, as follows.
  • a slurry of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline water-soluble anionic polymer aqueous solution, and stirred.
  • Viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in (1) above are mixed to form a dispersion of viscose fine particles.
  • the viscose is a raw material of the cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose with a gamma value of 30 to 100%by mass and an alkaline concentration of 4 to 10%by mass.
  • the above water-soluble anionic polymer mention may be made of polyacrylic acid sodium salt, polystyrene sulfonic acid sodium salt, and the like.
  • the above calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of viscose fine particles in the dispersion and to make the particle size of the cellulose particles smaller.
  • the calcium carbonate slurry mention may be made of Tama Pearl TP-221GS marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan.
  • the cellulose microbeads according to the present invention mention may be made of, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan:
  • the cellulose microbeads used in the present invention has a volume-median diameter of less than 10 ⁇ m.
  • the cellulose microbeads is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the talc to the cellulose microbeads ranges from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.2 to 1, and more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8.
  • the weight ratio of the two mattifying fillers provides to the composition of the invention an ultimate blur effect, and meanwhile the skin maintaining a natural skin tone, without too matty or white.
  • the invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
  • the aqueous phase may represent from 30%to 98%by weight, preferably from 30%to 95%by weight, better still from 50%to 90%by weight and even better still from 60%to 85%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oily phase.
  • the nature of the oily phase of the emulsion according to the invention is not critical.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • oil containing in the structure at least one amide unit is preferably used.
  • oil containing in the structure at least one amide unit will be understood throughout the text of the description to mean any compound comprising in its chemical structure at least one amide group (or function) of the type:
  • the oil (s) having in the structure at least one amide unit in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below:
  • radical R 1 represents an optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, limits inclusive;
  • radicals R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, limits inclusive;
  • -r is 0 or 1
  • -q is an integer from 0 to 2;
  • -p is 0 or 1
  • saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radicals examples include linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 30 and preferably C 1 -C 22 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, tert-octyl, decyl, lauryl and octadecyl radicals.
  • saturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based radicals examples include cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals, which are optionally substituted, in particular with alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned include linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C 2 -C 30 and preferably C 2 -C 22 alkenyl or alkynyl radicals, and in particular vinyl, allyl, oleyl and linoleyl radicals.
  • Examples of unsaturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned in particular include aryl radicals such as phenyl and naphthyl, which are optionally substituted, in particular with alkyls, for instance a tolyl radical, and examples of unsaturated cycloaliphatic radicals that may be mentioned more particularly include benzyl and phenylethyl radicals.
  • radicals more particularly means radicals comprising in their chemical structure, either in the main chain or on a secondary chain unit, one or more functional groups especially such as esters, ethers, alcohols, amines, amides and ketones, but preferably esters.
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 22 alkyl radical; a linear or branched C 2 -C 22 alkenyl radical; an aryl radical;
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • R 4 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C 2 -C 10 alkenyl radical or a sterol residue.
  • the group R 1 (CO) - is an acyl group of an acid preferably chosen from the group formed by acetic acid, toluic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These acids may also contain a hydroxyl group.
  • the portion -N (R 2 ) CH (R 3 ) (CH 2 ) q (CO) -of the amino acid ester is preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following amino acids:
  • glycine alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, ⁇ -alanine, N-butyl- ⁇ -alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine or N-methyl- ⁇ -alanine.
  • the portion of the amino acid esters corresponding to the group OR 4 may be obtained from alcohols chosen from the group formed by methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol.
  • oils containing in their structure at least one amide function of formula (III) in accordance with the invention are known per se. Some of them are especially described with their methods of preparation in patent applications EP 1 044 676 and EP 0 928 608 from the company Ajinomoto Co. Others are known in cosmetics, for instance insect repellents such as ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate or N, N-diethyltoluamide.
  • silicone oils for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid at room temperature, especially volatile silicone oils, in particular:
  • cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, such as cyclohexasiloxane, for example those sold under the tradename AEC Cyclohexasiloxane by the company A&E Connock;
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as polydimethylsiloxanes comprising ethylene oxide group containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, such as PEG-12 dimethicone, which is available under the tradename Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid sold by the company Dow Corning;
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention further comprises at least one oil chosen from oil containing in its structure at least on amide unit, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and a mixture thereof.
  • the composition of the invention further comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, N, N-diethyltoluamide, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
  • at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, N, N-diethyltoluamide, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition of the present invention further comprise at least one oil selected from isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, preferably a mixture.
  • the amount of oily phase in the composition of the invention is less than 35%of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 34%of the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 1%to 65%by weight, preferably from 10%to 35%by weight and better still from 15%to 35%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this amount of oily phase does not comprise the amount of emulsifier.
  • composition of the invention may also contain one or more additives that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • dyestuffs basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid)
  • lipid vesicles or any other type of vector nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.
  • pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments
  • kaolin silica
  • talc silica
  • boron nitride organic spherical powders, fibres; and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of additional fillers of organic spherical powders include polyamide powders and especially Nylon powders such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12, sold under the name by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as Diakalytes (INCI name: Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer) or rugby Balls (INCI name: Dimethiconol/Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, sold by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, under the respective names NLK and NLK those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name the expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, and especially the microspheres sold under the name by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F80 by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name by the company Toshiba Silicone
  • hydrophobic silicas such as Aerogel (INCI name: Silica Silylate) sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine
  • fibres examples include polyamide fibres, especially such as Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibres, Nylon 6, 6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibres or Nylon 12 (INCI name: Nylon 12) fibres, or such as poly (p-phenylene terephthamide) fibres; and mixtures thereof.
  • polyamide fibres especially such as Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibres, Nylon 6, 6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibres or Nylon 12 (INCI name: Nylon 12) fibres, or such as poly (p-phenylene terephthamide) fibres; and mixtures thereof.
  • additional fillers when exist, may be present in amount ranging from 0 to 5%by weight and preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oily phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector.
  • composition according to the invention it is possible to incorporate therein one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents examples include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides, for instance Ultrez and from the company Lubrizol; optionally neutralized polyacrylic acids, such as sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium neutralized salts of polyacrylic acid, such as sodium polyacrylate sold by the company BASF under the tradename Cosmedia SP; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name 305 (CTFA name : Polyacrylamide/C 13-14 Isoparaffin/laureth-7) and under the name 600 (CTFA name : Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; poly(INCI name
  • these gelling agents When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention.
  • Lipophilic gelling agents that may especially be mentioned include sodium polyacrylate, gellan gum, and a mixture thereof.
  • the gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05%to 10%by weight and preferentially from 0.1%to 5%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention are advantageously prepared according to a process in which the oily phase, comprising the oils and optionally the other fatty substances, is emulsified in the aqueous phase (into which have been introduced the polymer according to the invention) , using a dispenser at a temperature of from 20°C to 40°C.
  • the dispensing was performed at a degree of shear of from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm.
  • a subject of the invention is thus also a process for preparing the compositions as described above, in which the oily fatty phase is introduced into the aqueous phase, comprising the crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized.
  • the emulsification process may be performed with any other stirring system that gives proper shear as described above, for instance:
  • This process is a determining factor for obtaining large-sized oil globules in accordance with the invention.
  • a preparation method may be as follows: The oily phase is prepared by stirring using a impeller, for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm. Separately, the aqueous phase and the preserving agents are heated to 80°C with stirring at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes. The crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized is then added with stirring at 1000 rpm, then the mixture is left stirring at 1000-2000 rpm for 20 minutes.
  • the mixture is cooled to 50°C and optionally at least one gelling agent is added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • the mixture is again cooled to room temperature (25°C) and the mattifying fillers are then added.
  • the fatty phase and the alcohol are added with stirring using a impeller at 1000-2000 rpm for 10 to 15 minutes.
  • compositions according to the invention may be, for example, in any of the galenical forms of O/W emulsions, for example in the form of a serum, a milk or a cream, and they are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions that are the subject of the invention are intended for topical application and can especially constitute a cosmetic composition intended, for example, for caring for (anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, moisturizing, antisun, etc. ) , treating, cleansing and making up keratin materials, and especially human skin and lips.
  • a subject of the invention is a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the said keratin materials.
  • the present invention relates to a process for reducing the appearance of imperfections on keratin materials, in particular human skin and lips, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in reducing the appearance of imperfections on keratin materials, in particular human skin and lips.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
  • Comparative formula C contains boron nitride, instead of talc and cellulose microbeads;
  • Comparative formula D contains only talc, without cellulose microbeads
  • Comparative formula E contains polymethyl methacrylate instead of talc and cellulose microbeads
  • Comparative formula F contains only cellulose microbeads, not talc.
  • the fatty phase was prepared by mixing PEG-12 dimethicone, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and Polysilicone-11 in cyclohexasiloxane with stirring using a impeller, for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm.
  • the aqueous phase (water, glycerine, propyl glycol, and butylene glycol) , gellan gum, and the preservatives (2-phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin) were heated to 80°C with stirring at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes.
  • ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate was added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 20 minutes.
  • the mixture was cooled to 50°C and sodium polyacrylate were added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • the mixture was again cooled to room temperature (25°C) and the mattifying fillers were then added.
  • the transmittance (TH) and haze, the opacity of the invention and comparative formulas were measured, following the protocols disclosed above.
  • the composition has a transmittance (TH) of greater than or equal to 90, the higher, the better; a haze of greater than or equal to 85, preferably greater than or equal to 90, the higher the better; and a opacity of less than or equal to 8, the lower the better.
  • TH transmittance
  • Simulated Value Sum of value obtained above ⁇ weight amount of the filler (s)
  • the simulated values of the invention formula A and B are as follow:

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it comprises at least one crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, at least two mattifying agents comprising at least one talc, and cellulose microbeads, the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

Description

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion
The present invention relates to compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, more particularly, the present invention relates to a composition with an improved optical effect, in particular blur effect.
PRIOR ART
For various reasons associated in particular with greater comfort of use (softness, emollience and the like) , current compositions for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
It is known conventionally to formulate giant-drop emulsions to obtain a good comfort of use.
Document FR-2 843 695 describes O/W emulsions containing an amphiphilic polymer of non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and an oil content of greater than 40%by weight. However such an amount of oily phase leads to a greasy and shiny effect during application to the skin, which the user may find unacceptable. Besides, O/W emulsions comprising an amphiphilic polymer, such as a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid derivative, and an oil content of less than 30%, are known from FR 2 927 252.
On the other hands, one of the ultimate goals of a cosmetic composition is to reduce the appearance of imperfection on the skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pores on the skin. This goal can be achieved by formulating compositions with good optical effect, and in particular, blur effect.
Many efforts have been made to achieve such purpose.
It is known in the cosmetic field, such as make up products for reducing the appearance of the fine lines, wrinkles, or pores, by using silicone elastomers in combination with particles. For example, US2005/0100568 disclosed a composition comprising a combination of crosslinked polysiloxane elastomer, light scattering particles in a cosmetically acceptable  vehicle.
However, none of the above mentioned prior arts has made possible a composition with all the properties as described above.
There is thus a need for oil-in-water emulsions, in particular containing "giant" drops, which have a light, fluid texture, and also having an improved optical effect, in particular blur effect.
There is also a need for such a composition as mentioned above with a sufficient stability, i.e., stable over time.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by formulating an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer (s) , organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) , two mattifying fillers comprising talc (s) and cellulose microbeads.
Thus, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
a) at least one crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized;
b) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer; and
c) at least two mattifying agents comprising at least one talc, and cellulose microbeads, wherein the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects.
Firstly, the composition according to the invention has an improved optical effect. In particular, the optical effect refers to the blur effect. By “blur effect” we intend to mean the effect of reducing the appearance of imperfection of the skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
The blur effect is characterized by instrumental measurement of transmittance, haze, and opacity of the composition according to the invention.
In particular, the transmittance (TH) and haze are measured by the machine Haze-gard Plus sold by the company BYK.
The measurement is conducted by preparing a film the composition of the invention with a thickness of 25μm using the machine Elcometer 4340 Automatic Film Applicator on a  transparent film (BYK Byko-charts clear polyester-2mil #2871) .
The opacity of the composition of the present invention is measured by the device Chromameter CR-400 produced by the company Konica Minolta, and L*values were obtained.
The opacity value is calculated by the following equation:
(L*black+16) ^3/ (L*white+16) ^3 ×100
More particularly, the measurement is conducted by preparing a film containing the composition of the present invention with a thickness of 50μm, using the machine Elcometer 4340 Automatic Film Applicator, on a black/white card (Erichsen Typ24/5) .
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition has a transmittance (TH) of greater than or equal 90, a haze of greater than or equal to 85, preferably greater than or equal to 90, and a opacity of less than or equal to 8.
In addition, the composition of the present invention is stable over time.
An emulsion is stable if no change in its macroscopic or microscopic appearance and in its physicochemical characteristics (drop size, pH, viscosity) is observed after storage at various temperatures (T = 4℃, Troom, 40℃ and 45℃) for a duration of 2 months.
Moreover, the composition as such provides to the skin a great comfort of use, such as softness, emollience, hydration, and freshness.
According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, in particular the human skin and lips, comprising at least a step of applying to the said keratin materials a composition in accordance with the invention.
Yet another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as described above in reducing the appearance of imperfections on a keratin material, the imperfection comprises fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails. The skin and the lips, in particular facial skin, are most particularly considered according to the invention.
According to the present invention, “particle size of mattifying fillers” means volume-median diameter, which is measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
Detailed evaluation method will be described hereafter.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Globules
In the present invention, the term "mean size of the oil globules" means the effective volume-mean diameter D [4.3] of the said globules, as measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an effective particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles" , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
The "effective" volume-mean diameter D [4.3] is defined in the following manner:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000001
where Vi represents the volume of the particles of effective diameter di. This parameter is in particular described in the technical documentation of the particle size analyser.
The measurements are performed at 25℃ after diluting the composition by a factor of greater than 100 with osmosed water.
The "effective" diameter is obtained by specifying the refractive indices of water and of the fatty phase as a function of its nature.
The mean size of the oil globules may range from 15 to 500 μm, preferentially from 15 to 300 μm and better still from 15 to 150 μm.
Polymer (s)
In the present application, the expression “crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized” is understood to mean a homopolymer derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, which is crosslinked and which is practically fully neutralized or which is fully neutralized.
These polymers are water-soluble or are swellable in water.
The polymers used in the composition of the invention are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:
a) from 90 to 99.9%by weight of units having the following general formula (I) :
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000002
in which X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, it being possible for at most 10 mol%of the cations X+ to be protons H+
b) from 0.01 to 10%by weight of crosslinking units obtained from at least one monomer having at least two olefin double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
Preferably, the polymers of the invention comprise a number of units of formula (I) in a sufficiently high quantity to obtain particles of polymer whose hydrodynamic volume in solution in water has a radius ranging from 10 to 500 nm and whose distribution is homogeneous and unimodal.
The polymers used in the composition according to the invention which are more particularly preferred comprise from 98 to 99.5%by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.5 to 2%by weight of crosslinking units.
X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation which is the equivalent of that of an alkaline-earth metal or the ammonium ion.
More particularly, 90 to 100 mol%of the cations are NH4 + cations and 0 to 10 mol%are protons (H) +.
The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefin double bonds are chosen, for example, from the propylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyl oxethanoyl or other polyfunctional allyl or vinyl ether alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene-bis-acrylamide or divinylbenzene.
The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefin double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (II) :
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000003
in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl. The crosslinking monomer is preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate (compound of formula II where R1 is hydrogen) .
The polymers particularly preferred are those having a viscosity measured with a BROOKFIELD viscometer, No. 4 rotor, at a rotating speed of 100 revolutions/minute in a solution in water at 2%and at a temperature of about 25℃, greater than or equal to 1 000 cps (or 1 000 mPa.s) and more preferably ranging from 5 000 to 40 000 cps (5 000 to 40 000 mPa.s) and more particularly from 6 500 to 35 000 cps (6 500 to 35 000 mPa.s) . The crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention may be obtained according to the method of preparation comprising the following steps:
(a) the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid monomer is dispersed or dissolved in free form in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in a quantity which makes it possible to obtain a level of neutralization of the sulphonic acid functional groups of the polymer ranging from 90 to 100%;
(c) the crosslinking monomer (s) is (are) added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b) ;
(d) a conventional free-radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150℃; the polymer precipitating in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion.
The crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention may be in particular the product marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000004
(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate) .
The crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) used in the composition of the invention is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10%by  weight, better still from 0.2 to 5%by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organopolysiloxane elastomer (s)
The composition of the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, also referred to as “silicone elastomer” in the remainder of the description, preferably that is at least partially crosslinked.
The term “elastomer” is understood to mean a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or of a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited ability to expand and to contract. This material is capable of returning to its original shape after it has been stretched. This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.
The organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition according to the invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked. They are in the form of particles.
These particles may have any shape, for example they may be spherical, flat or amorphous. When they are included in an oily phase, these organopolysiloxane elastomers become transformed, depending on the content of oily phase used, into a product of spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of small amounts of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of larger amounts of oily phase. The gelation of the oily phase with these elastomers may be total or partial.
Thus, the elastomers of the invention may be conveyed in the form of an anhydrous gel consisting of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and of an oily phase. The oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous gel of organopolysiloxane elastomer contains one or more oils that are liquid at room temperature (25℃) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils.
Advantageously, the oily phase is a silicone liquid phase, containing one or more oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing a linear or cyclic chain, which are liquid at room temperature, optionally comprising an alkyl or aryl chain that is pendent or at the end of the chain, the alkyl chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
The organopolysiloxanes elastomers used according to the invention may be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886 and from those described in patent US-A-5 266 321.
They are preferably non-emulsifying. The expression “non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
More preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which may be obtained:
- by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups;
- by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst;
- by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound;
- by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound;
- by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane;
- by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; and
- by crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction:
(A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and
(B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in Application EP-A-295 886.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of a methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
The compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C) .
The compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups.
These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
Preferably, the compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25℃.
The organopolysiloxanes (A) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinyl-siloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes having di-methylvinylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane/methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
The compound (B) is, in particular, an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogens bonded to the silicon in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A) .
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon per molecule of the compound (B) is at least 4.
The compound (B) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
The compound (B) may have a viscosity, at 25℃, ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to be highly miscible with the compound (A) .
It is advantageous for the compound (B) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon in the compound (B) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A) is within the range of 1/1 to 20/1.
The compound (B) may be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups and cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.
The compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid/alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum-on-support.
The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as actual platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B) .
Other organic groups may be bonded to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) described previously, such as for example alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl groups; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl groups; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl groups; substituted aryl groups such as a phenylethyl group; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil in order to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
The organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition of the invention may be, for example, those sold under the names KSG 6 by Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow Corning; Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by Grant Industries, or those sold in the form of gels that are already formed: KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from  Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel and Gransil RPC from Grant Industries; 1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168 from General Electric. According to one preferred embodiment, silicone elastomers bearing the INCI name dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer (or polysilicone-11) are used as a mixture with cyclic silicone oil.
Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of crosslinked organopoly-siloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane such as, for example, Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from Grant Industries.
Mention may also be made of the elastomers sold under the references DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by Dow Corning. It is also possible to use a mixture of silicone elastomers, and especially a mixture of these commercial products.
The organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) used according to the invention are present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05%to 10%, preferably from 0.1%to 7%and better still from 0.1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Mattifying filler (s)
The composition of the present invention comprises a combination of mattifying fillers consisting of talc and cellulose microbeads.
The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
These fillers, which are mineral or organic in nature, make it possible to confer, on the composition, softness, mattness and uniformity on the skin.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar (or platelet) , spherical (or globular) form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
In the present patent application, the term "spherical particles" means particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100℃) .
The term "lamellar particles" means herein particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface) , discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface) , characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, these particles being  insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100℃) .
The mineral and/or organic mattifying fillers are preferably chosen from diffusing fillers.
The term "fillers" means divided solid particles, i.e. particles in powder form. These fillers generally have a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 μm.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "diffusing filler" denotes a spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous particle with a refractive index of less than or equal to 2, especially less than or equal to 1.8 and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.
The refractive index of the particles may be evaluated by the contrast erasure method. By choosing two totally miscible solvents with relatively remote refractive indices (ethanol: 1.36, and phenylethyl alcohol: 1.529) , it is possible to prepare mixtures having intermediate refractive indices. The particles under consideration are suspended in these various solvent mixtures and the transparency of these solutions is then evaluated using a Hach
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000005
turbidimeter sold by the company Hach. The refractive index of the particle is equal to that of the solvent mixture for which the least turbid solution is obtained, i.e. the solution with the least cloudiness and which corresponds to the minimum refractive index difference between the particles and the solvent mixture.
The "diffusing fillers" according to the invention generally have a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 μm.
In one preferential embodiment of the invention, the “diffusing fillers” are spherical.
In one preferential embodiment of the invention, the “diffusing fillers” are porous. In this case, the specific surface area of the particles, which may be related to the porosity, is greater than10 m2/g and preferably greater than 50 m2/g.
The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) . The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
In one preferential embodiment of the invention, the “diffusing fillers” are mattifying and/or "soft-focus" fillers.
The term mattifying or “soft-focus” filler means filler which gives the complexion more transparency and a hazy effect and give the skin a good appearance, without conferring on it a greasy, gleaming and shiny appearance. To do this, fillers generally termed mattifying  fillers are used, which are most often absorbent fillers such as talc, silica, kaolin or fillers having light scattering optical properties, which properties are known under the name “soft focus” effect.
In the particular case in which the fillers under consideration according to the invention are mattifying or "soft-focus" fillers, the mattifying power of the compositions containing them may be characterized by means of the following protocol.
The test composition is spread out at a rate of 2 mg/cm2 on a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250 cm2 sold by the company Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader. The composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37℃ prior to measurement of its reflection using a gonioreflectometer sold by the company Micromodule. The intensity reflected specularly at 30° (R) and scattered at 90° (D) are successively measured. The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. The value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect afforded by the filler. In the context of the present invention, a value of R of less than or equal to 2 generally indicates a mattifying effect.
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition comprises at least two mattifying fillers consisting of at least one talc and cellulose microbeads.
The composition of the present invention comprises, as one mattifying filler, at least one talc.
Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising a portion of aluminum silicate.
The crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica.
Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises micronized talc, or micronized magnesium silicate.
Preferably the micronized magnesium silicate has a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 10 μm, more preferably less than or equal to 7 μm.
Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with volume-median diameter of 5 μm or less, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs sold under the names Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc,
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000006
Pharma UM (volume-median diameter of 3.6 μm) by Imerys and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
Advantageously, the talc is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention comprises, as the other mattifying filler, cellulose microbeads.
For the purpose of the invention, “cellulose microbeads” refers to cellulose particles in spherical form with a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 μm.
Preferably the volume-median diameter of the cellulose microbeads are less than or equal to 10 μm.
The cellulose microbeads of the present invention may be porous or non-porous.
Preferably, the cellulose microbeads are porous.
The porosity of the cellulose microbeads may be characterized by a specific surface area of from 10 m2/g to 1,500 m2/g, more preferably from 50 m2/g to 1,000 m2/g, and even more preferably from 50 m2/g to 500 m2/g according to the BET method.
In the present invention, the cellulose microbeads that may be used is not limited by the type of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II, or the like. As the cellulose which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, type II cellulose is preferable. The cellulose microbeads can be prepared, for example, as follows.
(1) A slurry of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline water-soluble anionic polymer aqueous solution, and stirred.
(2) Viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in (1) above are mixed to form a dispersion of viscose fine particles.
(3) The dispersion of viscose fine particles obtained in (2) above is heated to aggregate the viscose in the dispersion, and neutralized with acid, to form cellulose microbeads.
(4) The cellulose microbeads are separated from the mother liquid obtained in (3) above, and washed and dried, if necessary.
The viscose is a raw material of the cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose with a gamma value of 30 to 100%by mass and an alkaline concentration of 4 to 10%by mass. As the above water-soluble anionic polymer, mention may be made of polyacrylic acid sodium salt, polystyrene sulfonic acid sodium salt, and the like. The above calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of viscose fine particles in the dispersion and to make the particle size of the cellulose particles smaller. As the calcium carbonate slurry, mention may be made of Tama Pearl TP-221GS marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan. As the cellulose microbeads according to the present invention, mention may be made of, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan: 
Cellulobeads USF with a volume-median diameter of 4 μm to 7 μm (porous cellulose) ;
Cellulobeads D-5 with a volume-median diameter of 10 μm;
Cellulobeads D-10 with a volume-median diameter of 15 μm;
or a mixture thereof.
Preferably, the cellulose microbeads used in the present invention has a volume-median diameter of less than 10 μm.
Advantageously, the cellulose microbeads is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Weight ratio of talc and cellulose microbeads
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the talc to the cellulose microbeads ranges from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.2 to 1, and more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8.
The weight ratio of the two mattifying fillers provides to the composition of the invention an ultimate blur effect, and meanwhile the skin maintaining a natural skin tone, without too matty or white.
According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
A) from 0.2 to 5%by weight of at least one crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized;
B) from 0.1%to 7% by weight of at least one dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer; and
C) at least two mattifying agents consisting of
C1) from 0.5%to 2%by weight of at least one talc, and
C2) from 1%to 5%by weight of cellulose microbeads,
wherein the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase. Preferably the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and  optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C2 to C8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
The aqueous phase may represent from 30%to 98%by weight, preferably from 30%to 95%by weight, better still from 50%to 90%by weight and even better still from 60%to 85%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
A composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oily phase.
The nature of the oily phase of the emulsion according to the invention is not critical.
In particular, the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
The term oil refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm2/min, inclusive.
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m3 chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The  mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm2) and per time unit (minute) .
The oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
More particularly, as hydrocarbon-based oils, oil containing in the structure at least one amide unit is preferably used.
The expression “oil containing in the structure at least one amide unit” will be understood throughout the text of the description to mean any compound comprising in its chemical structure at least one amide group (or function) of the type:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000007
and simultaneously having the following characteristics:
a) liquid at 25℃,
b) insoluble or immiscible in water at 25℃,
c) no emulsifying properties.
The oil (s) having in the structure at least one amide unit in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000008
in which:
-the radical R1 represents an optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, limits inclusive;
-the radicals R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, limits inclusive;
-r is 0 or 1;
-q is an integer from 0 to 2;
-p is 0 or 1,
-with the proviso that:
-when p = 1, then r is 0 and when p = 0, then q = 0 and r = 1.
Examples of saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned include linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted C1-C30 and preferably C1-C22 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, tert-octyl, decyl, lauryl and octadecyl radicals.
Examples of saturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned include cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals, which are optionally substituted, in particular with alkyl radicals.
Examples of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned include linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C2-C30 and preferably C2-C22 alkenyl or alkynyl radicals, and in particular vinyl, allyl, oleyl and linoleyl radicals. Examples of unsaturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based radicals that may especially be mentioned in particular include aryl radicals such as phenyl and naphthyl, which are optionally substituted, in particular with alkyls, for instance a tolyl radical, and examples of unsaturated cycloaliphatic radicals that may be mentioned more particularly include benzyl and phenylethyl radicals.
The term “functionalized radicals” more particularly means radicals comprising in their chemical structure, either in the main chain or on a secondary chain unit, one or more functional groups especially such as esters, ethers, alcohols, amines, amides and ketones, but preferably esters.
The preferred amide-based oils of formula (III) are chosen from those in which:
R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl radical; a linear or branched C2-C22 alkenyl radical; an aryl radical;
R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group;
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group;
R4 represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C2-C10 alkenyl radical or a sterol residue.
In formula (III) presented above, the group R1 (CO) -is an acyl group of an acid preferably chosen from the group formed by acetic acid, toluic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These acids may also contain a hydroxyl group.
In formula (III) , when p is 1, the portion -N (R2) CH (R3) (CH2) q (CO) -of the amino acid ester is preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following amino acids:
glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, β-alanine, N-butyl-β-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine or N-methyl-β-alanine.
In formula (III) , when p is 1, the portion of the amino acid esters corresponding to the group OR4 may be obtained from alcohols chosen from the group formed by methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol.
The oils containing in their structure at least one amide function of formula (III) in accordance with the invention are known per se. Some of them are especially described with their methods of preparation in patent applications EP 1 044 676 and EP 0 928 608 from the company Ajinomoto Co. Others are known in cosmetics, for instance insect repellents such as ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate or N, N-diethyltoluamide.
Among the compounds of formula (III) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of:
(1) ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, having the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000009
such as the product sold under the trade name Repellent R3535 by the company Merck;
(2) isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate of formula:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000010
such as the product sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000011
SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto;
(3) N, N-diethyltoluamide of formula:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000012
such as the product sold under the trade name Deet by the company Showa Denko.
As for silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid at room temperature, especially volatile silicone oils, in particular:
cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, such as cyclohexasiloxane, for example those sold under the tradename AEC Cyclohexasiloxane by the company A&E Connock;
polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as polydimethylsiloxanes comprising ethylene oxide group containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, such as PEG-12 dimethicone, which is available under the tradename  Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid sold by the company Dow Corning;
phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one oil chosen from oil containing in its structure at least on amide unit, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and a mixture thereof.
More preferably, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, N, N-diethyltoluamide, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprise at least one oil selected from isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, preferably a mixture.
The amount of oily phase in the composition of the invention is less than 35%of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 34%of the total weight of the composition.
The amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 1%to 65%by weight, preferably from 10%to 35%by weight and better still from 15%to 35%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As indicated above, this amount of oily phase does not comprise the amount of emulsifier.
Additives
In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain one or more additives that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include emulsifiers, gelling agents, active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, solvents, salts, additional fillers, sunscreens (= UV-screening agents) , dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid) , and also lipid vesicles  or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc. ) , and mixtures thereof.
As additional fillers that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talc; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibres; and mixtures thereof.
Examples of additional fillers of organic spherical powders that may be mentioned include polyamide powders and especially Nylon powders such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12, sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000013
by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as Diakalytes (INCI name: Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer) or Rugby Balls (INCI name: Dimethiconol/Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, sold by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, under the respective names NLK
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000014
and NLK
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000015
those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000016
the expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, and especially the microspheres sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000017
by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F80
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000018
by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000019
by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000020
or Microsphere M-
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000021
by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000022
by the company Wackherr, or SepimatTM H10 sold by Seppic; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000023
by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially of corn, wheat or rice starch, which may or may not be crosslinked, such as the starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000024
by the company National Starch.
Mention may also be made of hydrophobic silicas such as Aerogel (INCI name: Silica Silylate) sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000025
Examples of fibres that may be mentioned include polyamide fibres, especially such as Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibres, Nylon 6, 6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibres or Nylon 12 (INCI name: Nylon 12) fibres, or such as poly (p-phenylene terephthamide) fibres; and mixtures thereof.
These additional fillers, when exist, may be present in amount ranging from 0 to 5%by  weight and preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
These additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oily phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector.
These additives and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not modify the desired properties for the emulsion of the invention.
Depending on the desired viscosity of the composition according to the invention, it is possible to incorporate therein one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.
Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000026
(INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides, for instance Ultrez
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000027
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000028
and
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000029
from the company Lubrizol; optionally neutralized polyacrylic acids, such as sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium neutralized salts of polyacrylic acid, such as sodium polyacrylate sold by the company BASF under the tradename Cosmedia SP; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000030
305 (CTFA name : Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/laureth-7) and under the name
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000031
600 (CTFA name : Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance gellan gum, such as the ones sold by the company CP Kelco under the tradename
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000032
CG LA, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention.
Lipophilic gelling agents that may especially be mentioned include sodium polyacrylate, gellan gum, and a mixture thereof.
The gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05%to 10%by weight and preferentially from 0.1%to 5%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Method and use
The compositions of the invention are advantageously prepared according to a process in  which the oily phase, comprising the oils and optionally the other fatty substances, is emulsified in the aqueous phase (into which have been introduced the polymer according to the invention) , using a dispenser at a temperature of from 20℃ to 40℃.
The dispensing was performed at a degree of shear of from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm.
A subject of the invention is thus also a process for preparing the compositions as described above, in which the oily fatty phase is introduced into the aqueous phase, comprising the crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized.
Thus, the emulsification process may be performed with any other stirring system that gives proper shear as described above, for instance:
- with a turbomixer of the Moritz homogenizer type,
- in a tank equipped with a tank-bottom turbomixer, a scraper blade, or a counter-rotating central mixing paddle and heating/cooling via the tank jacket. Examples that may be mentioned include the Macef and Maxilab tanks from the company Olsa, and the tanks sold by the company Pierre Guérin,
- using a colloidal mill,
- using a static emulsifier,
- with an inline turbomixer, for example of
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000033
or
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000034
brand.
This process is a determining factor for obtaining large-sized oil globules in accordance with the invention.
A preparation method may be as follows: The oily phase is prepared by stirring using a impeller, for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm. Separately, the aqueous phase and the preserving agents are heated to 80℃ with stirring at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes. The crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90%neutralized is then added with stirring at 1000 rpm, then the mixture is left stirring at 1000-2000 rpm for 20 minutes.
The mixture is cooled to 50℃ and optionally at least one gelling agent is added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes. The mixture is again cooled to room temperature (25℃) and the mattifying fillers are then added. Finally, the fatty phase and the alcohol are added with stirring using a impeller at 1000-2000 rpm for 10 to 15 minutes.
The compositions according to the invention may be, for example, in any of the galenical forms of O/W emulsions, for example in the form of a serum, a milk or a cream, and they are prepared according to the usual methods.
The compositions that are the subject of the invention are intended for topical application and can especially constitute a cosmetic composition intended, for example, for caring for (anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, moisturizing, antisun, etc. ) , treating, cleansing and making up keratin materials, and especially human skin and lips.
Moreover, a subject of the invention is a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the said keratin materials.
In particular, the present invention relates to a process for reducing the appearance of imperfections on keratin materials, in particular human skin and lips, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in reducing the appearance of imperfections on keratin materials, in particular human skin and lips.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
The percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
In the examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the composition.
Example
Invention formulas A, B, and comparative formulas C, D, E, F were prepared:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000035
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000036
Comparative formula C contains boron nitride, instead of talc and cellulose microbeads;
Comparative formula D contains only talc, without cellulose microbeads;
Comparative formula E contains polymethyl methacrylate instead of talc and cellulose microbeads;
Comparative formula F contains only cellulose microbeads, not talc.
Preparation process
Invention and comparative formulas were obtained according to the following protocol:
The fatty phase was prepared by mixing PEG-12 dimethicone, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and Polysilicone-11 in cyclohexasiloxane with stirring using a impeller, for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm.
The aqueous phase (water, glycerine, propyl glycol, and butylene glycol) , gellan gum, and the preservatives (2-phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin) were heated to 80℃ with stirring at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes.
The ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate was added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 20 minutes.
The mixture was cooled to 50℃ and sodium polyacrylate were added with stirring at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes.
The mixture was again cooled to room temperature (25℃) and the mattifying fillers were then added.
Finally, the fatty phase was added with stirring using a impeller at between 1000-2000 rpm for 15 minutes.
Evaluation of the invention and comparative formulas
All the invention and comparative formulas contain "giant" drops.
Besides, the invention formulas A and B are stable over time.
The blur effect of the invention and comparative formulas were evaluated, using the measurements disclosed above.
All the formulas have a good skin sensory while using as a facial serum on the skin, such as softness, hydration.
In particular, the transmittance (TH) and haze, the opacity of the invention and comparative formulas were measured, following the protocols disclosed above.
The results are as follow:
Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-000037
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition has a transmittance (TH) of greater than or equal to 90, the higher, the better; a haze of greater than or equal to 85, preferably greater than or equal to 90, the higher the better; and a opacity of less than or equal to 8, the lower the better.
From the results listed above, it is observed that only invention formulas A and B fully meet the expectation of the present invention, whereas the comparative formulas C, D, E, and F are not satisfying in one or more of the items listed above.
Comparison of simulated and experimental TH, Haze, and Opacity value of the invention  formula A and B
A simulation of the values TH, haze, and opacity of the invention formulas A and B were calculated, following the protocol:
evaluating the TH, haze and opacity values using the method mentioned above for the formulas containing 4.25%of one of the four fillers: talc, cellulose microbeads, boron nitride, and polymethyl methacrylate, respectively;
calculating the simulated values of the invention formula A and B, using the following formula:
Simulated Value = Sum of value obtained above × weight amount of the filler (s) The simulated values of the invention formula A and B are as follow:
Simulated Value (*) Invention formula A Invention formula B
TH* (%) 87.9 90.7
Haze* (%) 80.0 87.9
Opacity* (%) 13.9 9.4
It is observed that, based on the real values and the simulated values*, the invention formulas present an unexpected improvement in terms of all the values.

Claims (18)

  1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
    a) at least one crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90% neutralized;
    b) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer; and
    c) at least two mattifying agents comprising at least one talc, and cellulose microbeads, wherein the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  2. Composition of claim 1, wherein the polymer a) is characterized in that it comprises:
    a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units having the following general formula (I) :
    Figure PCTCN2015097867-appb-100001
    in which X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, it being possible for at most 10 mol% of the cations X+ to be protons H+
    b) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units obtained from at least one monomer having at least two olefin double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer;
    preferably the polymer comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.5 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units, wherein in formula (I) :
    X+ represents a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation which is the equivalent of that of an alkaline-earth metal, ammonium ion, or a mixture thereof; more particularly, 90 to 100 mol% of the X+ is NH4 + cations, and 0 to 10 mol% are protons H+.
  3. Composition of claims 1 or 2, wherein the polymer a) is ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl taurate.
  4. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the polymer a) is present in the composition in an quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still  from 0.2 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is chosen from those obtained:
    -by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups;
    -by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst;
    -by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound;
    -by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon;
    -by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane;
    -by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; and
    -by crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation.
  6. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is selected from those obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst; preferably obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of a methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  7. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer.
  8. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging 0.05% to 10% , preferably from 0.1% to 7% and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the talc is micronized magnesium silicate, preferably having a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 10 μm, more preferably less than or equal to 7 μm.
  10. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the talc is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the cellulose microbeads are chosen from porous cellulose microbeads with a volume-median diameter of less than or equal to 15 μm, preferably less than or equal to 10 μm.
  12. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the cellulose microbeads are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the weight ratio of the talc to the cellulose microbeads ranges from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.2 to 1, and more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8.
  14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the mean size of the globules of the said emulsion is between 15 and 300 microns and preferably between 15 and 150 microns.
  15. Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase in a continuous aqueous phase, and comprising:
    A) from 0.2 to 5% by weight of at least one crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymer which is at least 90% neutralized;
    B) from 0.1% to 7% by weight of at least one dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer; and
    C) at least two mattifying agents consisting of:
    C1) from 0.5% to 2% by weight of at least one talc, and
    C2) from 1% to 5% by weight of cellulose microbeads,
    wherein the globules of the said emulsion having a mean size ranging from 15 to 500 microns and the oily phase being present in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  16. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it further comprises at least one oil chosen from oils containing in the structure at least one amide unit, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and a mixture thereof; preferably chosen from ethyl N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, N, N-diethyltoluamide, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing an ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, or mixture thereof.
  17. Process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 16 to the keratin materials, in particular human skin and lips.
  18. Use of the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 16 in reducing the appearance of imperfections on keratin materials, in particular the human skin and lips.
PCT/CN2015/097867 2015-12-18 2015-12-18 Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion WO2017101103A1 (en)

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Cited By (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2019228996A1 (en) * 2018-05-29 2019-12-05 L'oreal Cosmetic composition with visible oil droplets
FR3111810A1 (en) * 2020-06-30 2021-12-31 L'oreal Composition comprising a combination of fillers
WO2024014310A1 (en) * 2022-07-12 2024-01-18 L'oreal Composition comprising skin care active ingredient or cellulose compound
FR3138870A1 (en) * 2022-08-18 2024-02-23 L'oreal COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CELLULOSIC COMPOUND

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CN1784213A (en) * 2003-05-08 2006-06-07 宝洁公司 Personal care compositions containing a silicone elastomer and a dispersed oil phase
WO2009053635A1 (en) * 2007-10-11 2009-04-30 L'oreal Structured cosmetic composition
WO2014128679A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 L'oreal Gel-type cosmetic composition
CN105142598A (en) * 2013-02-25 2015-12-09 欧莱雅 Gel-type cosmetic composition

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FR2938191B1 (en) * 2008-11-07 2011-01-14 Oreal OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION CONTAINING AN AMPHIPHILIC POLYMER AND A SILICONE ELASTOMER
FR2976178B1 (en) * 2011-06-09 2013-09-27 Oreal SOLAR ANHYDROUS CREAM COMPRISING A NON-EMULSIFYING ORGANOSOLYSILOXANE ELASTOMER, A MATIFYING AGENT, AN ORGANIC NON-SILICONE OIL THICKENER
FR3021533B1 (en) * 2014-05-28 2017-09-15 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE

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CN1784213A (en) * 2003-05-08 2006-06-07 宝洁公司 Personal care compositions containing a silicone elastomer and a dispersed oil phase
WO2009053635A1 (en) * 2007-10-11 2009-04-30 L'oreal Structured cosmetic composition
WO2014128679A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 L'oreal Gel-type cosmetic composition
CN105142598A (en) * 2013-02-25 2015-12-09 欧莱雅 Gel-type cosmetic composition

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2019228996A1 (en) * 2018-05-29 2019-12-05 L'oreal Cosmetic composition with visible oil droplets
FR3111810A1 (en) * 2020-06-30 2021-12-31 L'oreal Composition comprising a combination of fillers
WO2024014310A1 (en) * 2022-07-12 2024-01-18 L'oreal Composition comprising skin care active ingredient or cellulose compound
FR3138870A1 (en) * 2022-08-18 2024-02-23 L'oreal COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CELLULOSIC COMPOUND

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