CN108601713A - The composition of oil-in-water emulsion form - Google Patents
The composition of oil-in-water emulsion form Download PDFInfo
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- CN108601713A CN108601713A CN201580085411.8A CN201580085411A CN108601713A CN 108601713 A CN108601713 A CN 108601713A CN 201580085411 A CN201580085411 A CN 201580085411A CN 108601713 A CN108601713 A CN 108601713A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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Abstract
The present invention relates to the compositions of oil-in-water emulsion form, it is characterized in that poly- (2 acrylamido, the 2 methyl propane sulfonic acid) polymer of the crosslinking being neutralized it includes at least one at least 90%, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomers, at least two delustering agents, the delustering agent includes at least one talcum and cellulose bead, the bead of the lotion has 15 to 500 microns of average-size, and the oil phase exists with the amount less than 35 weight % of composition total weight.The invention further relates to the methods for keratin material of nursing and/or make up.
Description
The present invention relates to the compositions of oil-in-water emulsion form, more particularly, it relates to improved optics effect
The composition of fruit, especially blur effect.
The prior art
Due to being especially and using more comfortably(Flexibility, palliative etc.)Relevant a variety of causes, currently used for handling angle egg
The composition of white material, especially skin is usually the water packet being made of by dispersion discontinuous phase aqueous dispersion continuous phase and oiliness
Oil(O/W)The lotion of type disperses continuous phase and the aqueous Water-In-Oil formed by dispersion discontinuous phase by oiliness(W/O)Type
Lotion form.
O/W lotions are the most popular one kind of cosmetic field because they include water phase as external phase, this enables them
When being applied on skin with more pure and fresh than W/O lotion, less greasy and slimmer and more graceful feeling.
It is conventionally known to prepare huge drop lotion(giant-drop emulsion)To obtain good comfort.
Document FR-2 843 695 describes the amphipathic polymerization containing non-crosslinked 2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids
The O/W lotions of object and oil content more than 40 weight %.But such oil phase amount results in oil during being applied to skin
Greasy and shinny effect, user can not receive this.In addition, known by FR 2 927 252 includes amphipathic nature polyalcohol such as 2-
The O/W lotions of acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acid derivative and oil content less than 30%.
On the other hand, one of the final purpose of cosmetic composition is to reduce the appearance of flaw on skin, on skin
Microgroove, wrinkle and pore.This may be implemented by composition of the preparation with good optical effect, especially blur effect
Purpose.
Many trials have been carried out thus.
It is known that being constituted by using silicone elastomer combination particle for reducing microgroove, wrinkle in cosmetic field
The product that line or pore occur.For example, US2005/0100568 discloses a kind of composition, it includes cross linking polysiloxane elasticity
The combination of body, light diffusing particles in cosmetically acceptable carrier.
But the above-mentioned prior art has not been able to obtain the composition with all above-mentioned properties.
Therefore oil-in-water emulsion is needed, especially contains the lotion of " huge " drop, with slim and graceful fluid quality, and also has
There are improved optical effect, especially blur effect.
Also need to it is with sufficient stability, i.e., through when the above-mentioned composition stablized.
Summary of the invention
It has been found by the present inventors that being included in the oil phase in continuous aqueous phase by preparation, and it include 2- acrylamido -2- methyl
Propane sulfonic acid polymer(It is one or more), organopolysiloxane elastomers(It is one or more)Including talcum(It is one or more)
With the oil-in-water emulsion of two kinds of delustring fillers of cellulose bead, such needs may be implemented.
The present invention relates to the compositions of the oil-in-water emulsion form of the oil phase included in continuous aqueous phase as a result, and include:
a)At least one crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer, at least 90% is neutralized;
b)At least one organopolysiloxane elastomers;With
c)At least two delustering agents, including at least one talcum and cellulose bead
The bead of the wherein described lotion has 15 to 500 microns of average-size, and the oil phase is with the small of composition total weight
Exist in the amount of 35 weight %.
The composition of the present invention is advantageous in many aspects.
First, composition of the invention has improved optical effect.Particularly, which refers to blur effect.
" blur effect " is intended to refer to reduce skin blemishes(Such as microgroove, wrinkle and pore)The effect of appearance.
The instrument measurements of the transmissivity of the composition of blur effect through the invention, mist degree and opacity characterize.
Particularly, the machine Haze-gard Plus that are sold by BYK companies measure transmissivity(TH)And mist degree.
By using 4340 Automatic Film Applicator of machine Elcometer in hyaline membrane(BYK
- 2 mil #2871 of Byko-charts transparent polyesters)On prepare thickness and be somebody's turn to do for the film of the composition of 25 microns of the present invention
It measures.
The opacity of the composition of the present invention passes through the device Chromameter that is produced by Konica Minolta companies
CR-400 is measured, and obtains L* values.
Opacity value is calculated by following formula:
(L*Black+16) ^3/ (L*White+16) ^3 ×100。
More particularly, by using 4340 Automatic Film Applicator of machine Elcometer in black/white
Card(Erichsen Typ24/5)On prepare thickness and carry out the measurement for the films of 50 microns of compositions containing the present invention.
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition has the transmissivity more than or equal to 90(TH), it is greater than or equal to 85, is preferably big
In or equal to 90 mist degree, and the opacity less than or equal to 8.
In addition, the present invention composition through when stablize.
If in different temperatures(T=4℃、TRoom temperature, 40 DEG C and 45 DEG C)Lower storage does not observe its macroscopic view or micro- after 2 months
See appearance and its physicochemical characteristics(Drop size, pH, viscosity)Variation, then lotion is stable.
In addition, the composition itself provides comfort to skin, as flexibility, palliative, aquation and
Pure and fresh degree.
The invention further relates to make up and/or nurse keratin material, especially human skin and lip according to another aspect,
Method, include the steps that it is at least one to the keratin material apply the present invention composition.
Another aspect of the present invention is related to the purposes in terms of flaw appearance of the above-mentioned composition on reducing keratin material,
The defect includes microgroove, wrinkle and pore.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " keratin material " is intended to skin, mucous membrane(Such as lip), nail.According to this hair
Bright, special consideration should be given to skins and lip, especially skin of face.
According to the present invention, " granularity of delustring filler " refers to volume median diameter, passes through Brookhaven BI-90 light
Photon correlation spectrometer measures.
Detailed appraisal procedure is described below.
Detailed description of the invention
Bead
In the present invention, term " average-size of oily bead " refers to using business Particle Size Analyzer as from Malvern
The effective volume average diameter D [4.3] for the bead that MasterSizer 2000 is measured by static light scattering.It is dissipated in Michaelis
It penetrates on the basis of theory and data is handled.The theory(It is accurate to isotropism particle)Make it possible to aspherical
Effective grain size is measured in the case of particle.The theory is described inter alia in the publication " Light of Van de Hulst, H.C.
The Scattering by Small chapters of Particles ", the 9th and 10, Wiley, New York, in 1957.
" effective " volume mean diameter D [4.3] is defined in the following manner:
Wherein ViIndicate effective diameter diParticle volume.The ginseng is specified in the technical documentation of Particle Size Analyzer
Number.
It is measured at 25 DEG C after being diluted the composition more than 100 times with infiltration water.
It is used as the function of its property by the refractive index of regulation water and fatty phase to be somebody's turn to do " effective " diameter.
The average-size of oily bead can be 15 to 500 microns, preferably 15 to 300 microns, more preferably 15 to 150 micro-
Rice.
Polymer
In this application, " at least 90% crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer being neutralized " is stated
It is understood as referring to the homopolymer derived from 2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids, is crosslinked, and almost neutralized
Or it is fully neutralized.
These polymer are water-soluble or swellable in water.
The polymer of composition for the present invention is usually characterized by that it includes random distributions:
a)90 to 99.9 weight %'s has following general formula(I)Unit:
Wherein X+Indicate the mixture of cation or cation, the cationic X of at most 10 moles %+May be proton H+;
b)The crosslink unit for being obtained from least one monomer at least two olefinic double bonds of 0.01 to 10 weight %, relative to
The total weight of the polymer limits weight ratio.
Preferably, polymer of the invention includes a large amount of formulas with sufficiently high amount(I)Unit to obtain polymer particle,
It is uniform list that the hydrodynamic volume that the polymer particle is dissolved in water, which has 10 to 500 nanometers of radius and its distribution,
Peak.
Particularly the polymer of composition preferred for the present invention includes the formula of 98 to 99.5 weight %(I)Unit
With the crosslink unit of 0.5 to 2 weight %.
X+The mixture for indicating cation or cation, in particular selected from proton, alkali metal cation, is equivalent to alkaline-earth metal
The cation or ammonium ion of cation.
More particularly, 90 to 100 moles of % of the cation are NH4 +Cation, and 0 to 10 mole of % is proton(H+).
Cross-linking monomer at least two olefinic double bonds is for example selected from propylene glycol diallyl ether, two allyl of polyethylene glycol
Base ether, triethyleneglycol divinylether, quinhydrones diallyl ether, tetraallyl oxygen acetyl(tetraallyl oxethanoyl)
Or other multifunctional allyls or vinyl ether alcohol, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diene
Propyl ether, methylene-bis-acrylamide or divinylbenzene.
Cross-linking monomer at least two olefinic double bonds, which is particularly selected from, meets general formula(II)Those of:
Wherein R1Indicate hydrogen atom or C1-C4Alkyl, more particularly methyl.The cross-linking monomer is preferably trimethylolpropane tris third
Olefin(e) acid ester(The compound of Formula II, wherein R1For hydrogen).
Particularly preferred polymer is to use BROOKFIELD viscosimeters, and No. 4 rotors are with 100 revs/min of rotary speed
The viscosity measured at a temperature of about 25 DEG C in 2% aqueous solution is more than or equal to 1 000 cps(Or 1 000
mPa.s)More preferably 5 000 to 40 000 cps(5 000 to 40 000 mPa.s)More particularly 6 500 to 35 000
cps(6 500 to 35 000 mPa.s)Those of.
For the present invention composition crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) can according to include with
The preparation method of lower step obtains:
(a)2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids monomer is dispersed or dissolved in the tert-butyl alcohol or water and the tert-butyl alcohol in a free form
Solution in;
(b)With one or more inorganic or organic base, preferably ammonium hydroxide NH3The sulfonic acid of 90 to 100% polymer can be obtained
The amount of the neutralization levels of functional group neutralizes(a)The monomer solution or dispersion of middle acquisition;
(c)By cross-linking monomer(It is one or more)It is added to(b)In the solution or dispersion of middle acquisition;
(d)Conventional radical polymerization is carried out at a temperature of 10 to 150 DEG C in the presence of radical initiators;Polymer is in base
It is precipitated in the solution of the tert-butyl alcohol or dispersion.
For the present invention composition crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) especially can be by
Clariant companies are with trade name Hostacerin AMPS®The product of sale(CTFA titles:Polypropylene acyl group dimethyl ox sulphur
Sour ammonium).
Crosslinked poly- (the 2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) of composition for the present invention is preferably with the composition
0.1 to 10 weight %, more preferable 0.2 to the 5 weight % of total weight and the amount of more preferable 0.2 to 2 weight % exist.
Organopolysiloxane elastomers
The composition of the present invention includes at least one organopolysiloxane elastomers, and " silicon is also referred to as in specification remainder
Ketone elastomer ", it is preferably at least partial cross-linked.
Term " elastomer " is understood as referring to viscoplasticity, and the flexibility of the especially consistency of sponge or flexible ball
With deformable solid material.Its elasticity modulus makes this material deformation resistant and has limited expansion and contractility.This
Kind material can restore its original-shape after the stretch.This elastomer is formed by heavy polymer chain, mobility by
The uniform network of crosslinking points limits.
The organopolysiloxane elastomers of composition for the present invention are preferably partially or completely crosslinked.They are particles
Form.
These particles can have any shape, such as they can be spherical, flat or unbodied.When them
When being comprised in oil phase, according to oil phase content used, these organopolysiloxane elastomers are worked as and are made in the presence of a small amount of oil phase
Used time is changed into the product of sponge-like appearance, or is changed into uniform gel in the presence of relatively large oil phase.Oil phase and these
The gelling of elastomer can be all or part of.
Elastomer of the invention can be with the shape for the anhydrous gel being made of organopolysiloxane elastomers and oil phase as a result,
Formula conveys.The oil phase of anhydrous gel for manufacturing organopolysiloxane elastomers contains one or more in room temperature(25℃)Under
For the oil of liquid, the oil is selected from oil and/or silicone oil based on hydrocarbon.
Advantageously, which is silicone liquid phase, and the poly dimethyl containing straight chain or closed chain is selected from containing one or more
The oil of siloxanes is at room temperature liquid, optionally contains as side group or the alkyl or aryl chain in chain end, the alkyl
Chain contains 1 to 6 carbon atom.
Organopolysiloxane elastomers used according to the invention can be retouched in patent application EP-A-0 295 886
The cross-linked polymer stated and those of described in the patent US-A-5 266 321.
They are preferably non-emulsified.Statement " non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers " is defined without hydrophily chain such as
The organopolysiloxane elastomers of polyoxyalkylene or bound to polyglycerol unit.
It is highly preferred that the organopolysiloxane elastomers are cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane elastomers, it can be by following
Method obtains:
By two organosiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and there are at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups
Polyoxyalkylene crosslinking addition reaction;
By the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and with the olefinic unsaturation for being bonded to silicon
The crosslinking addition reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of group, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst;
By two organosiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and with the olefinic unsaturated group for being bonded to silicon
The crosslinking addition reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of group, especially in the presence of organotin compounds;
By diorganopolysiloxanecompositions with hydroxyl end groups with contain two organic poly- silicon of at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon
Dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between oxygen alkane, especially in the presence of organotin compounds;
It is reacted with the crosslinking condensation of hydrolyzable organopolysilane by the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions with hydroxyl end groups;
By the heat cross-linking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organic peroxide catalyst;With
Pass through the crosslinking of high-energy radiation organopolysiloxane as caused by gamma-rays, ultraviolet light or electron beam.
Preferably, which is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction below:
(A)The diorganopolysiloxanecompositions for the hydrogen atom for being respectively bonded to different silicon atoms containing at least two, and
(B)The diorganopolysiloxanecompositions for the ethylenically unsaturated group for being bonded to silicon at least two, especially exist(C)Platinum catalyst
In the presence of, as described in application EP-A-295 886.
Particularly, which can be poly- by the dimethyl with dimethylvinylsiloxy end group
Siloxanes and the methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane with trimethyl siloxy end-groups reacting to obtain in the presence of platinum catalyst
.
Compound(A)It is to be used to form the basic reaction object of organopolysiloxane elastomers, and pass through compound(A)With
Compound(B)In catalyst(C)In the presence of addition reaction carry out the crosslinking.
Compound(A)It is advantageously rudimentary at least two(Such as C2-C4)The diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of alkenyl;It is low
Grade alkenyl can be selected from vinyl, allyl and acrylic.
These Lower-alkenyl groups can be located at any position on organopolysiloxane molecules, it is preferred that positioned at should
The end of organopolysiloxane molecules.The organopolysiloxane(A)Can have branch, straight chain, ring-type or network structure, still
Linear chain structure is preferred.The compound(A)There can be the viscosity from liquid to colloidal state.
Preferably, the compound(A)Viscosity at least 100 centistokes at 25 DEG C.
The organopolysiloxane(A)Methyl vinyl silicone, methyl vinyl silicone/dimethyl silica can be selected from
Alkyl copolymer, the dimethyl polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end group, with dimethyl ethenyl first silicon
The dimethyl siloxane of alkoxy end group/methyl phenyl siloxane copolymer has dimethylvinylsiloxy end group
Dimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, with trimethyl siloxy end-groups
Dimethyl siloxane/methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, dimethyl siloxane/first with trimethyl siloxy end-groups
Base phenyl siloxane/methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, with dimethylvinylsiloxy end group methyl (3,3,
3- trifluoro propyls) polysiloxanes and dimethyl siloxane/methyl (3,3,3- with dimethylvinylsiloxy end group
Trifluoro propyl) silicone copolymers.
Compound(B)The organopolysiloxane for the hydrogen for being especially bonded to silicon containing at least two in each molecule, and because
This is compound(A)Crosslinking agent.
Advantageously, compound(A)Per molecule ethylenic group number and compound(B)Per molecule be bonded to the hydrogen atom of silicon
Several summations is at least 4.
Compound(B)Can have any molecular structure, especially straight or branched structure or cyclic structure.
Compound(B)Can have the viscosity of 1 to 50 000 centistoke at 25 DEG C, especially in order to compound(A)
High miscibility.
Compound(B)Advantageously so that compound(B)In be bonded to silicon hydrogen atom total amount and compound(A)Middle institute
There is the amount that the molecular proportion between the total amount of ethylenically unsaturated group is 1/1 to 20/1 to add.
Compound(B)Methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane with trimethyl siloxy end-groups can be selected from, with trimethyl
Dimethyl siloxane/methylhydrogensiloxacopolymer copolymer and cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methyl hydrogen silica of siloxy end group
Alkyl copolymer.
Compound(C)It is the catalyst of the cross-linking reaction, and especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefin complex, chlorine platinum
Acid/alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complex, platinum black and the platinum on carrier.
Catalyst(C)It is preferred that with every 1000 parts by weight compound(A)With(B)0.1 to 1000 parts by weight of total amount, more preferably
The amount addition based on pure platinum of 1 to 100 parts by weight.
Other organic groups can be bonded to aforementioned organopolysiloxane(A)With(B)In silicon, such as alkyl such as methyl,
Ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl;Replace alkyl such as 2- phenylethyls, 2- phenyl propyls or 3,3,3- trifluoro propyls;Aryl such as benzene
Base, tolyl or xylyl;Substituted aryl such as phenethyl;With group of the substituted monovalence based on hydrocarbon such as epoxy group, carboxylate
Group or sulfydryl.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomers is usually mixed at least one oil based on hydrocarbon and/or silicone oil to form gel.
In these gels, which is the form of nonspherical particle.
The organopolysiloxane elastomers of composition for the present invention may, for example, be by Shin-Etsu with title KSG
6;By Dow Corning with title Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C;By Grant Industries with title
Gransil(SR-CYC、SR DMF10、SR-DC556)Those of sell, or with those of molding gel form sale:
KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG- from Shin-Etsu
33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44;Gransil SR 5CYC gels from Grant Industries,
10 gels of Gransil SR DMF, Gransil SR DC556 gels and Gransil RPC;From General Electric
1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168.According to a preferred embodiment, there is INCI designation Dimethicones/second
Alkenyl polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer(Or GRANSIL GCM-5)Silicone elastomer make as the mixture with cyclic silicone oils
With.
For example, it can be mentioned that the mixture or cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane/ring of cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane
The mixture of own siloxanes, such as the Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from Grant Industries.
It can also refer to by Dow Corning with label DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506
The elastomer of sale.It is also possible to using the mixture of silicone elastomer, the especially mixture of these commercial products.
Organopolysiloxane elastomers used according to the invention(It is one or more)With the 0.05 of the composition total weight
The active material amount of weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 7 weight % and more preferable 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % exists.
Delustring filler
The composition of the present invention includes the combination for the delustring filler being made of talcum and cellulose bead.
Term " filler " is understood to refer to the colourless or white of any shape, mineral or compound particle, does not dissolve in
And it is dispersed in the medium of the composition, the manufacture temperature regardless of the composition.
These inorganic or organic nature fillers can make the composition soft, matt and uniform on the skin.
The filler of composition for the present invention can be stratiform(Or flake), it is spherical(Or it is spherical)Form, fiber shape
Formula or any other intermediate form between these determination forms.
In the present patent application, term " spheroidal particle " refers to the particle of spherical form or essentially spherical form, no
It is dissolved in the medium of the composition of the present invention, or even in the fusing point of the medium(About 100 DEG C)Under also so.
Term " booklike particle " in this article refers to parallelepiped shape(Rectangular or square surface), disc-shape
(Circular surface)Or ellipsoid shape(Oblong surface)Particle, by three dimensional representations:Length, width and height, this
In the medium of composition of a little particles insoluble in the present invention, or even in the fusing point of the medium(About 100 DEG C)Under also so.
The inorganic and/or organic quenching filler is preferably selected from diffusion filler.
Term " filler " refers to the solids of separation, the i.e. particle of powder type.These fillers are typically below 15
The volume median diameter of micron.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " diffusion filler " indicates that refractive index is less than or equal to 2, especially less than or equal to 1.8 Hes
Preferably 1.3 to 1.6 spherical or aspherical, porous or non-porous particle.
The refractive index of particle can be assessed by comparing erasing method.By selective refraction rate differ larger two kinds it is completely mixed
Molten solvent(Ethyl alcohol:1.36 and phenylethyl alcohol:1.529), the mixture with middle refractive index can be prepared.It will be examined
The particle of worry is suspended in these various solvent mixtures, the Hach 2100P for then using Hach companies to sell®Nephelometer is commented
Estimate the transparency of these solution.The refractive index of particle, which is equal to, obtains least muddy solution, the i.e. minimum solution of turbidity(And it is corresponding
Lowest refractive index between particle and solvent mixture is poor)The refractive index of solvent mixture.
" the diffusion filler " of the present invention is typically below or the volume median diameter equal to 15 microns.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is spherical that " should diffuse filler ".
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is porous that " should diffuse filler ".In this case, with hole
The specific surface area of the relevant particle of rate is more than 10 meters squared per grams and preferably greater than 50 meters squared per grams.
Can be by The Journal of the American Chemical Society, volume 60, the 309th
Page, it is described in 2 months 1938 and meet international standard ISO 5794/1(Appendix D)Be referred to as BET(Brunauer-
Emmett-Teller)The nitrogen absorption process of method measures the specific surface area of per unit mass.The BET specific surface area, which corresponds to, to be considered
Particle total specific surface area.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is delustring and/or " soft focus " filler that " should diffuse filler ".
Term delustring or " soft focus " filler are to instigate the colour of skin more transparent and provide dim effect and assign skin good appearance
Filler without generating greasy flash of light and shiny appearance on the skin.For this purpose, using filling out for delustring filler is commonly known as
Material is most often absorbent filler such as talcum, silica, kaolin or has scattering optical properties(These property quilts
Referred to as " soft focus " effect)Filler.
Be according to the filler that is considered of the present invention wherein delustring or " soft focus " filler specific condition in, can by with
Lower scheme characterizes the delustring power containing their compositions.
Test composition is blocked with the rate of 2 millis gram/cm in comparison using mechanical film applicator(Erichsen companies
24/5-250 square centimeters of the Prufkarte types of sale)On spread out.Then whole night, then the composition is dried at 37 DEG C
The angle reflectometer sold using Micromodule companies(gonioreflectometer)Measure its reflection.It measures in succession
The intensity of 30 ° of mirror-reflections(R)With the intensity scattered at 90 °(D).Acquired results are the ratios between mirror-reflection and diffusing reflection
R.R values are smaller, and the photoextinction which provides is proportionally bigger.In the present invention, it is less than or equal to the 2 usual table of R values
Bright extinction effect.
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition includes at least two delustrings being made of at least one talcum and cellulose bead
Filler.
As a kind of delustring filler, composition of the invention includes at least one talcum.
Talcum is the hydrated magnesium silicate for generally comprising a part of alumina silicate.
The crystal structure of talcum is made of the repetition layer of the shepardite interlayer between silicon dioxide layer.
Preferably, composition of the invention includes micronizing talcum, or micronizing magnesium silicate.
Preferably, micronizing magnesium silicate has in the volume less than or equal to 10 microns, more preferably less than or equal to 7 microns
It is worth diameter.
As example, it can be mentioned that volume median diameter is 5 microns or smaller micronizing magnesium silicate, by Nippon
Talc is sold with title Micro Ace P3, or the talcum sold with title Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, by
Imerys is with title Luzenac®Pharma UM(Volume median diameter is 3.6 microns)The talcum of sale, and by Asada
The talcum that Milling is sold with title Talc JA-46R.
Advantageously, talcum is with the 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % of composition total weight, the amount of preferably 0.5 weight % to 2 weight %
It is present in the composition of the present invention.
As other delustring fillers, composition of the invention includes cellulose bead.
For the purpose of the present invention, " cellulose bead " refers to the cellulose granules of spherical form, is had micro- less than or equal to 15
The volume median diameter of rice.
The volume median diameter of the cellulose bead is preferably lower than or equal to 10 microns.
The cellulose bead of the present invention can be porous or non-porous.
Preferably, which is porous.
The porosity of the cellulose bead can according to BET methods by 10 meters squared per grams to 1,500 meters squared per grams, more
It is preferred that the specific surface of 50 meters squared per grams to 1,000 meters squared per grams and even more preferably 50 meters squared per grams to 500 meters squared per grams
It accumulates to characterize.
In the present invention, the cellulose bead that can be used is not limited by cellulase type, such as cellulose I, cellulose
II etc..As the cellulose of composition for use in the present invention, II fiber type elements are preferred.
The cellulose bead can for example be prepared as follows.
(1)It will be added in alkali water-soluble anionic polymer aqueous solution simultaneously as the calcium carbonate slurry of agglutination inhibitor
Stirring.
(2)By viscose glue and above(1)The aqueous solution of middle acquisition is mixed to form the dispersion of viscose glue particulate.
(3)It will be above(2)The dispersion of the viscose glue particulate of middle acquisition is heated to assemble the viscose glue in dispersion, is used in combination in acid
With to form cellulose bead.
(4)By cellulose bead from above(3)It is detached in the mother liquor of middle acquisition, and washing when needed and drying.
The viscose glue is the raw material of cellulose.It is preferable to use the alkali of γ values and 4 to 10 quality % with 30 to 100 quality %
The viscose glue of concentration.As above-mentioned water-soluble anionic polymer, it can be mentioned that polyacrylic acid sodium salt, kayexalate salt etc.
Deng.Above-mentioned calcium carbonate is used to prevent the viscose glue fine particulates in dispersion, and enables the granularity smaller of cellulose granules.As carbonic acid
Calcium slurry, it can be mentioned that the Tama Pearl TP-221GS of the Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd.s sale by Japan.As
The cellulose bead of the present invention, it can be mentioned that for example by the following ball shaped cellulose particle of the Daito Kasei sale of Japan:
The Cellulobeads USF that volume median diameter is 4 microns to 7 microns(Porous cellulose);
The Cellulobeads D-5 that volume median diameter is 10 microns;
The Cellulobeads D-10 that volume median diameter is 15 microns;
Or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cellulose bead for being used for the present invention has the volume median diameter for being less than 10 microns.
Advantageously, the cellulose bead is with the 0.1 weight % to 10 weight % of composition total weight, preferably 1 weight % to 5 weights
The amount of amount % is present in the composition of the present invention.
The weight ratio of talcum and cellulose bead
According to a preferred embodiment, talcum is 0.1 to 2 to the weight ratio of cellulose bead, preferably 0.2 to 1, more preferably
0.4 to 0.8.
The weight ratio of two kinds of delustring fillers provides final blur effect to the composition of the present invention, while skin keeps day
Right skin color without excessively dimness or whitens.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the nursing of oil-in-water emulsion form and/or makeup keratin materials
The composition of material, the oil phase being included in continuous aqueous phase, and include:
A)Crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer of at least one of 0.2 to 5 weight %, at least
90% is neutralized;
B)At least one Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone copolymer of 0.1 weight % to 7 weight %;With
C)At least two delustering agents, are made up of:
C1)At least one talcum of 0.5 weight % to 2 weight %, and
C2)The cellulose bead of 1 weight % to 5 weight %,
The bead of the wherein described lotion has 15 to 500 microns of average-size, and the oil phase is with the composition total weight
Amount less than 35 weight % exists.
Water phase
The composition of the present invention includes at least one continuous water phase.
The water phase is preferably continuous phase.
The water phase of the composition of the present invention includes water and chooses any one kind of them or a variety of water miscibilities or at least partly water miscibility
Compound, such as C2To C8Lower polyol or single methanol, such as ethyl alcohol and isopropanol.
Term " polyol " is understood to refer to include any organic molecule of at least two free hydroxyl radicals.It can carry
And the example of polyalcohol include glycols, such as butanediol, propylene glycol and isoprene, glycerine and polyethylene glycol.
The water phase may also contain any common water solubility as described below or water miscibility additive.
The water phase can account for the 30 weight % to 98 weight %, preferably 30 weight % to 95 weight %, more of the composition total weight
50 weight % to 90 weight % and even better 60 weight % to 85 weight %.
Oil phase
The composition of the present invention further includes at least one oil phase.
The property of the oil phase of the lotion of the present invention is simultaneously non-key.
Particularly, which includes at least one oil.
Term oil refers in room temperature(20-25℃)With any fat-body under atmospheric pressure being liquid form.These oil can be with
With animal, plant, mineral or synthesis source.
The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
Term " volatile oil " refers in room temperature(20-25℃)And atmospheric pressure(760 millimetress of mercury)Under can be small less than one
When the interior any non-aqueous medium evaporated from skin or lip.Volatile oil is volatility cosmetics oil, is at room temperature liquid.
More specifically, volatile oil has 0.01 to 200 milli gram/cm/minute(Including endpoint)Evaporation rate.
Term " fixed oil " is intended to refer to stay in the oil on keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.More specifically,
Fixed oil has the stringent evaporation rate less than 0.01 milli gram/cm/minute.
In order to measure the evaporation rate, 15 grams of oil or oil mixture to be tested are placed in the crystallising dish of 7 centimetres of diameter,
The crystallising dish is placed at temperature to adjust in 25 DEG C and day of the humidity regulation in 0.3 cubic metre of big room of 50% relative humidity
On flat.So that liquid is freely evaporated, do not stir, while with the fan being vertically arranged in above the crystallising dish containing the solvent(PAPST-
MOTOREN, 8550 N of label are rotated with 2700 rpm)Ventilation is provided, blade is towards crystallising dish, 20 centimetres away from crystallising dish bottom.
Periodic measurement stays in the quality of the oil in crystallising dish.Evaporation rate is with per unit area(Square centimeter)Per unit time(Point
Clock)The milligram number of the oil of evaporation indicates.
Oil suitable for the present invention can be based on hydrocarbon, based on silicone or based on fluorine.
According to the present invention, term " silicone oil " refers to comprising at least one silicon atom, especially includes at least one Si-O bases
The oil of group.
Term " fluorocarbon oil " refers to the oil for including at least one fluorine atom.
Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to the main oil for including hydrogen and carbon atom.
The oil can include optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms, such as in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
More particularly, as the oil based on hydrocarbon, it is preferable to use containing the oil of at least one amide units in the structure.
Statement " oil for containing at least one amide units in the structure " is understood as referring to throughout this manual at it
It include at least one following kind of amide group in chemical constitution(Or function):
And there is any compound of following properties simultaneously:
a)It is liquid at 25 DEG C,
b)It is not soluble in water or water-immiscible at 25 DEG C,
c)Without emulsifying property.
The oil at least one amide units in the structure of the present invention(It is one or more)It is preferably selected from following formula(III)
Compound:
Wherein:
Group R1Indicate optionally functionalised, aliphatic, alicyclic or cricoid, saturated or unsaturated containing 1 to 30 carbon
Atom and preferably 1 to 22 carbon atom(Including boundary)Group of the monovalence based on hydrocarbon;
Group R2、R3And R4, can be identical or different, indicate hydrogen or it is optionally functionalised, aliphatic, alicyclic or cricoid,
It is saturated or unsaturated to contain 1 to 30 carbon atom and preferably 1 to 22 carbon atom(Including boundary)Base of the monovalence based on hydrocarbon
Group;
- r is 0 or 1;
- q is 0 to 2 integer;
- p is 0 or 1;
Condition is:
As p=1, then r is 0, as p=0, then q=0 and r=1.
Especially it can be mentioned that group of the radical of saturated aliphatic based on hydrocarbon example include linear chain or branched chain, substitution or it is unsubstituted
C1-C30With preferred C1-C22Alkyl group, especially methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, normal-butyl, isobutyl group, tertiary fourth
Base, amyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2- ethylhexyls, t-octyl, decyl, bay
Base and octadecyl group.
Especially it can be mentioned that the example of group of the saturated cyclic based on hydrocarbon include cyclopenta and cyclohexyl, optionally taken
In generation, is especially replaced by alkyl group.
Especially it can be mentioned that group of the unsaturated aliphatic based on hydrocarbon example include linear chain or branched chain, substitution or do not take
The C in generation2-C30With preferred C2-C22Alkenyl or alkynyl, especially vinyl, allyl, oleyl and sub- oil base.
Especially it can be mentioned that group of the unsaturated cyclic based on hydrocarbon example particularly including aryl such as phenyl and naphthalene,
Unsaturated cycloaliphatic base that is optionally substituted, especially being replaced by alkyl group, such as tolyl, and particularly can be mentioned that
The example of group includes benzyl and phenethyl.
Term " functionalizing group " refers to particularly in their chemical constitution, in main chain or on secondary chain element
Including one or more functional groups, especially such as ester, ether, alcohol, amine, amide and ketone, but the group of preferred ester.
Preferred formula(III)The oil based on amide be selected from wherein meet those of the following conditions:
R1Indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain1-C22Alkyl group;The C of linear chain or branched chain2-C22Alkenyl group;Aryl group;
R2Indicate hydrogen atom or the C of linear chain or branched chain1-C6Alkyl;
R3Indicate hydrogen atom or the C of linear chain or branched chain1-C6Alkyl;
R4Indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain1-C10The C of alkyl group or linear chain or branched chain2-C10Alkenyl group or sterol residue.
The formula being generally noted above(III)In, group R1(CO)-be acid acyl group, the acid is preferably selected from acetic acid, toluene first
Acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acids, linoleic acid, leukotrienes, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2- second
Base caproic acid, coco-nut oil fatty acid and palm kernel fatty acid.These acid can also contain hydroxyl group.
In formula(III)In, when p is 1, the part-N (R of amino-acid ester2)CH(R3)(CH2) q (CO)-be preferably selected from correspondence
In those of following amino acid:Glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline,
Hydroxy-proline, Beta-alanine, N- butyl-Beta-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine or N- methyl the-the third ammonia of-β
Acid.
In formula(III)In, when p is 1, correspond to group OR4Amino-acid ester part can be obtained from selected from methanol, second
Alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropanol, butanol, the tert-butyl alcohol, isobutanol, 3- methyl-1-butanols, 2-methyl-1-butene alcohol, amylalcohol, hexanol, hexamethylene
Alcohol, octanol, 2-Ethylhexyl Alcohol, decyl alcohol, laruyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohols,
The alcohol of Jojoba alcohol, 2- hexadecanols, 2- octyldodecanols and isooctadecanol.
The formula of the present invention(III)In its structure contain at least one amide functional oil be known per se.They
In some and preparation method thereof be described inter alia in patent application EP 1 044 676 and EP from Ajinomoto Co companies
In 0 928 608.It is other be in cosmetics it is known, such as pest repellant such as N- acetyl group-N- butylaminos ethyl propionate or
N, N- diethyltoluamide.
In particularly preferred formula(III)Compound in, it can be mentioned that:
(1)N- acetyl group-N- butylamino ethyl propionates with following formula:
The product such as sold with trade name Repellent R3535 by Merck companies;
(2)The N- lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl esters of following formula:
Such as by Ajinomoto companies with title Eldew®The product that SL-205 is sold;
(3)The N of following formula, N- diethyltoluamide:
The product such as sold with trade name Deet by Showa Denko companies.
Volatility as silicone oil, such as containing straight chain or cyclic silicone chain or non-volatile polymethyl siloxane
(PDMS), it is at room temperature liquid, especially volatile silicone oils, especially:
Cyclomethicone(Cyclomethicone)Such as five dimethyl siloxane of six dimethyl siloxane of ring and ring, such as hexamethylene silica
Alkane, such as by A&E Connock companies with those of trade name AEC Cyclohexasiloxane sale;
Including as side group or the dimethyl silicone polymer of the alkyl in silicone chain end, alkoxy or phenyl, these groups contain
There are 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as includes the dimethyl silicone polymer of the ethylene oxide group containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as containing
The dimethyl silicone polymer for having the ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms, such as PEG-12 dimethyl silicone polymers, by Dow
Corning companies sell, and can be obtained with trade name Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid;
Phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone siloxy two
Phenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes, 2- phenethyl trimethyl silyls
Oxygroup esters of silicon acis and polymethylphenylsiloxane;With
Their mixture.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition of the invention further includes at least one oil, and the oil is selected from
Contain the oil of at least one amide units in its structure, cyclomethicone, include as side group or in silicone chain end
Alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer(These groups contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms)And its mixture.
It is highly preferred that the composition of the present invention further includes at least one oil, the oil is selected from N- acetyl group-N- butyl
Alanine ethyl ester, N- lauroyl sarcosines isopropyl ester, N, N- diethyltoluamides, contain with 12 cyclohexasiloxane
Or mixtures thereof the dimethyl silicone polymer of ethylene oxide chain of a carbon atom.
Even further preferably, the composition of the present invention further includes at least one oil, the oil is selected from N- lauroyls
Sarcosine isopropyl ester, cyclohexasiloxane, the dimethyl silicone polymer containing the ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms or it is mixed
Close object, preferred mixture.
The amount of oil phase is less than the 35% of the composition total weight in the composition of the present invention, the preferably lower than or equal to combination
The 34% of object total weight.
The amount of oil phase can be the 1 weight % to 65 weight %, preferably 10 weight % to 35 weights of such as the composition total weight
Measure % and more preferable 15 weight % to 35 weight %.
As described above, the amount of oil phase does not include the amount of emulsifier.
Additive
In known manner, composition of the invention can also contain one or more common in cosmetics or dermatology
Additive.
It can be mentioned that adjuvant example include emulsifier, gelling agent, activating agent, preservative, antioxidant, fragrance,
Solvent, salt, additional filler, opacifier(=UV- smoke agents for shielding), dyestuff, alkaline agent(Triethanolamine, diethanol amine or sodium hydroxide)
Or acidizer(Citric acid)And the carrier of lipid vesicle or any other type(Nano capsule, microcapsules etc.), and its it is mixed
Close object.
As the additional filler of composition for use in the present invention, it can be mentioned that example include pigment such as titanium oxide, oxygen
Change zinc or iron oxide and organic pigment;Kaolin;Silica;Talcum;Boron nitride;Organic spherical powder, fiber;And its
Mixture.
It can be mentioned that the example of additional filler of organic spherical powder include polyamide powder, especially nylon powder,
Such as by Atochem companies with title Orgasol®The Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12 of sale;Polyethylene powders;Teflon;Base
In the microballoon of acrylic copolymer, such as Diakalytes(INCI titles:Methyl-monosilane alcohol/esters of silicon acis cross-linked polymer)Or
Rugby Balls(INCI titles:Dimethiconol/methyl-monosilane alcohol/esters of silicon acis cross-linked polymer), by company
Takemoto Oil & Fat are with respective name NLK 506®With NLK 602®It sells;Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/bay
Alcohol methacrylate copolymer those of is made, by Dow Corning companies with title Polytrap®It sells;Powder is expanded,
Such as hollow microsphere, especially by Kemanord Plast companies with title Expancel®The microballoon of sale is public by Matsumoto
Department is with title Micropearl F80 ED®The microballoon of sale;Silicone resin microbeads, such as by Toshiba Silicone companies with
Title Tospearl®Those of sell;Poly (methyl methacrylate) micro-sphere, by Matsumoto companies with title Microsphere
M-100®Or Microsphere M-310®It sells, or by Wackherr companies with title Covabead LH85®It sells, or by
Seppic is with title SepimatTMH10 is sold;Vinyl-acrylate copolymer powder, such as by Sumitomo Seika
Chemicals companies are with title Flobeads®Those of sell;The powder of natural organic, such as starch powder, it is especially beautiful
Rice, wheat or rice starch, may or may not be crosslinked, such as by National Starch companies with title Dry-Flo®
Sell with the crosslinked starch powder of octenyl succinic acid anhydride.
Hydrophobic silica can also be referred to, such as by Dow Corning companies with title Dow Corning VM-2270
Aerogel Fine Particles®The Aerogel of sale(INCI titles:Silica silylate).
It can be mentioned that the example of fiber include Fypro, especially such as nylon 6(Or polyamide 6)(INCI titles:
Nylon 6)Fiber, nylon 6,6(Or polyamide 66)(INCI titles:Nylon 66)Fiber or nylon 12(INCI titles:
Nylon 12)Fiber, or such as poly- (poly P phenylene diamine terephthalamide) fiber;And its mixture.
These additional fillers when it is present can be with 0 to 5 weight % of the composition total weight and preferably 0.5 weight % to 2
The amount of weight % exists.
These additives are used with common ratio in cosmetic field, for example, the composition total weight 0.01% to
30%, and according to their nature, they can be introduced into the water phase of the composition or in oil phase, or be introduced into vesica or
In the carrier of any other type.
These additives and its concentration must make them not change the required property of the lotion of the present invention.
The required viscosity of composition depending on the present invention, it is possible to be mixed into one or more hydrophily gellings wherein
Agent.
It can be mentioned that the example of hydrophilic gelling agent include modified or unmodified carboxyl vinyl polymer, such as by
Noveon companies are with title Carbopol®The product of sale(INCI titles:Carbomer);Polyacrylamide, such as from
The Ultrez 10 of Lubrizol companies®、20®With 21®;The polyacrylic acid optionally neutralized, such as the sodium of polyacrylic acid, potassium, lithium and ammonium
Neutralize salt, the Sodium Polyacrylate such as sold with trade name Cosmedia SP by BASF AG;Acrylamide and 2- acrylamides
The crosslinked anionic copolymers of base -2- methyl propane sulfonic acids are W/O emulsion forms, such as by SEPPIC companies with title Sepigel®305(CTFA titles:Polyacrylamide/C13-14Isoparaffin/laureth -7)With with title Simulgel® 600
(CTFA titles:Acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl tauric acid sodium copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate80)It sells
Those;Polysaccharide biopolymer, such as gellan gum(Such as by CP Kelco companies with trade name Kelcogel®What CG LA were sold
Gellan gum), xanthans, guar gum, alginates and modification or unmodified cellulose;And its mixture.
When they exist, these gelling agents must so that they will not change the present invention composition property amount
It introduces.
Especially it can be mentioned that lipophilic gelling agents include Sodium Polyacrylate, gellan gum and its mixture.
The gelling agent is with the 0.05 weight % to 10 weight % and preferably 0.1 weight % of the composition total weight to 5 weight %'s
Active material content exists.
Method and purposes
The composition of the present invention is advantageously prepared according to following methods, wherein uses temperature of the distributor at 20 DEG C to 40 DEG C
It is lower that the oil phase comprising oily and optional other fatty materials is emulsified in water phase(Polymer incorporated in the present invention thereto)In.
The distribution is carried out with the degree of shear of 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm.
Thus the main body of the present invention is the method for preparing above-mentioned composition, wherein being mutually introduced into oiliness fat comprising at least
In the water phase of 90% crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer being neutralized.
Emulsion process, which may be used, as a result, provides as described above any other stirring system for suitably shearing and carries out,
Such as:
The turbine-type mixer of Moritz homogenizer types is used,
Equipped with tank bottom turbine-type mixer, scraper blade or reverse rotation central mixing blade and via tank chuck heating/cooling
Tank in.It can be mentioned that example include Macef the and Maxilab tanks from Olsa companies, and it is public by Pierre Gu é rin
The tank sold is taken charge of,
Colloid mill is used,
Static emulsifying apparatus is used,
Use in-line arrangement turbine-type mixer, such as IKA®Or KMF®Brand.
The process is to obtain the determinant of the large scale oil bead of the present invention.
Preparation method can be as follows:The oil phase stirs at 1000 rpm 15 minutes by using impeller to prepare.Individually
Water phase and preservative are heated to 80 DEG C, and are stirred 10 minutes at 1000 rpm by ground.The feelings then stirred at 1000 rpm
At least 90% crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer being neutralized is added under condition, then enables the mixing
Object stirs 20 minutes at 1000-2000 rpm.
Mixture is cooled to 50 DEG C, and is optionally added to less a kind of gelling agent and is stirred 15 minutes at 1000 rpm.
The mixture is cooled to room temperature again(25℃)And delustring filler is then added.It is eventually adding fatty phase and alcohol and uses impeller
It is stirred 10 to 15 minutes at 1000-2000 rpm.
The composition of the present invention can be any galenical form of such as O/W lotions, for example, essence, emulsion or frost
The form of agent, and they are prepared according to conventional methods.
Composition as subject of the present invention is intended for local application, and especially configuration example is such as intended for nursing
(Crease-resistant, anti-aging, moisturizing, sun-proof etc.), processing, cleaning and makeup keratin material, especially human skin and lip
Cosmetic composition.
In addition, the method that the main body of the present invention is nursing and/or makeup keratin material, it is characterised in that will be defined above
Composition be applied on the keratin material.
Particularly, the present invention relates to the sides that the flaw reduced on keratin material, especially human skin and lip occurs
Method, including the composition being defined above is applied to the step on the keratin material.
The invention further relates to flaw of the above-mentioned composition on reducing keratin material, especially human skin and lip to go out
The purposes of existing aspect.
The present invention is explained in more detail by embodiment as described below, the embodiment is given as non-limitative illustration
Go out.
Percentage is the weight percent of active constituent or active material.
In the following embodiments, the weight percent is described relative to the total weight of the composition.
Embodiment
Prepare invention formula A, B and comparative formula C, D, E, F:
Comparative formula C contains boron nitride and replaces talcum and cellulose bead;
Comparative formula D only contains talcum, is free of cellulose bead;
Comparative formula E contains polymethyl methacrylate and replaces talcum and cellulose bead;
Comparative formula F only contains cellulose bead, without talcum.
Preparation process
Invention formula and comparative formula are obtained according to following scheme:
Stirred at 1000 rpm by using impeller mixed in cyclohexasiloxane within 15 minutes PEG-12 dimethyl silicone polymers,
Lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester and GRANSIL GCM-5 prepare fatty phase.
By water phase(Water, glycerine, propylene glycol and butanediol), gellan gum and preservative(2- phenoxetols and Chlorphenesin)
It is heated to 80 DEG C and is stirred 10 minutes at 1000 rpm.
Polypropylene acyl group dimethyltaurine ammonium is added and is stirred 20 minutes at 1000 rpm.
Mixture is cooled to 50 DEG C and Sodium Polyacrylate is added, and is stirred 15 minutes at 1000 rpm.
The mixture is cooled to room temperature again(25℃), delustring filler is then added.
It is eventually adding fatty phase, is stirred 15 minutes at 1000-2000 rpm using impeller.
Assessment invention formula and comparative formula
All invention formulas and comparative formula contain " huge " drop.
In addition, invention formula A and B through when stablize.
The blur effect of invention formula and comparative formula is assessed using above-disclosed measurement method.
All formulas all have good dermal sensation when being used on the skin as facial essence, such as flexibility, hydration
Effect.
Particularly, the transmissivity of invention formula and comparative formula is measured according to above-disclosed scheme(TH), mist degree and
Opacity.
As a result as follows:
。
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition has the transmissivity more than or equal to 90(TH), the higher the better;It is greater than or equal to
85, it is preferably greater than or equal to 90 mist degree, the higher the better;It is more lower better with the opacity less than or equal to 8.
It is observed by above-named result, only invents and be formulated the expection that A and B complies fully with the present invention, and comparative formula
C, unsatisfactory in one or more projects that D, E and F are enumerated above.
Compare simulation and experiment TH, mist degree and the opacity value of invention formula A and B
The simulation of the value of the TH for inventing formula A and B, mist degree and opacity is calculated according to following scheme:
TH, mist degree and the opacity of formula of the above method assessment containing one of 4.25% following four filler are used respectively
Value:Talcum, cellulose bead, boron nitride and polymethyl methacrylate;
The analogue value of invention formula A and B is calculated using following formula:
The summation of the analogue value=previously obtained value × filler weight
The analogue value of invention formula A and B is as follows:
The analogue value (*) | Invention formula A | Invention formula B |
TH* (%) | 87.9 | 90.7 |
Mist degree * (%) | 80.0 | 87.9 |
Opacity * (%) | 13.9 | 9.4 |
It observes, be based on actual value and analogue value *, invention formula shows unexpected change in terms of all values
Into.
Claims (18)
1. the composition of oil-in-water emulsion form, it includes the oil phases in continuous aqueous phase, and include:
a)At least one crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer, at least 90% is neutralized;
b)At least one organopolysiloxane elastomers;With
c)At least two delustering agents, including at least one talcum and cellulose bead,
The bead of the wherein described lotion has 15 to 500 microns of average-size, and the oil phase is with the composition gross weight
The amount less than 35 weight % of amount exists.
2. the composition of claim 1, wherein the polymer a)Be characterized in that it includes:
a)90 to 99.9 weight %'s has following general formula(I)Unit:
Wherein X+Indicate the mixture of cation or cation, the cationic X of at most 10 moles %+May be proton H+;
b)The crosslink unit for being obtained from least one monomer at least two olefinic double bonds of 0.01 to 10 weight %, relative to
The total weight of the polymer limits weight ratio;
The polymer preferably comprises the formula of 98 to 99.5 weight %(I)Unit and 0.5 to 2 weight % crosslink unit, wherein
In formula(I)In:
X+Or mixtures thereof indicate proton, alkali metal cation, the cation for being equivalent to alkaline earth metal cation, ammonium ion,;More
Particularly, the X+90 to 100 moles of % be NH4 +Cation, and 0 to 10 mole of % is proton H+。
3. the composition of claims 1 or 2, wherein the polymer a)It is polypropylene acyl group dimethyltaurine ammonium.
4. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the polymer a)With the 0.1 of the composition total weight
Amount to 10 weight %, more preferable 0.2 to 5 weight % and more preferable 0.2 to 2 weight % is present in the composition.
5. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 4, it is characterised in that the organopolysiloxane elastomers, which are selected from, to be passed through
Those of following methods acquisition:
By two organosiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and there are at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups
Polyoxyalkylene crosslinking addition reaction;
By two organosiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and with the polyglycereol of ethylenically unsaturated group
The crosslinking addition reaction for changing compound, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst;
By two organosiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon and with the olefinic unsaturated group for being bonded to silicon
The crosslinking addition reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of group, especially in the presence of organotin compounds;
By diorganopolysiloxanecompositions with hydroxyl end groups with contain two organic poly- silicon of at least one hydrogen for being bonded to silicon
Dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between oxygen alkane;
It is reacted with the crosslinking condensation of hydrolyzable organopolysilane by the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions with hydroxyl end groups;
By the heat cross-linking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organic peroxide catalyst;With
Pass through the crosslinking of organopolysiloxane caused by high-energy radiation.
6. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 5 passes through wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomers are selected from(A)Contain
There are the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of at least two hydrogen atoms for being respectively bonded to different silicon atoms, and(B)With at least two bondings
To the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the ethylenically unsaturated group of silicon, especially exist(C)Crosslinking addition reaction in the presence of platinum catalyst
Those of obtain;It is preferred that by dimethyl polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end group with trimethyl
Reaction acquisition those of of the methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane of siloxy end group in the presence of platinum catalyst.
7. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomers are polydimethylsiloxanes
Alkane/vinyldimethicone copolymer.
8. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomers are total with the composition
The amount of 0.05 weight % to the 10 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 7 weight % and more preferable 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % of weight are present in
In the composition.
9. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 8 preferably has less than wherein the talcum is micronizing magnesium silicate
Or the volume median diameter equal to 10 microns, more preferably less than or equal to 7 microns.
10. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the talcum is with 0.1 weight of the composition total weight
% to 5 weight % is measured, the amount of preferably 0.5 weight % to 2 weight % are present in the composition.
11. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the cellulose bead is less than selected from volume median diameter
Or it is equal to 15 microns, preferably lower than or equal to 10 microns of porous cellulose microballon.
12. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the cellulose bead is with the composition total weight
The amount of 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 1 weight % to 5 weight % are present in the composition.
13. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein talcum be 0.1 to 2 to the weight ratio of cellulose bead,
It is preferred that 0.2 to 1 and more preferable 0.4 to 0.8.
14. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 13, it is characterised in that the average-size of the bead of the lotion is 15
To 300 microns, preferably 15 to 150 microns.
15. the composition for keratin material of nursing and/or make up of oil-in-water emulsion form, it includes in continuous aqueous phase
Oil phase, and include:
A)Crosslinked poly- (2- acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acids) polymer of at least one of 0.2 weight % to 5 weight %,
At least 90% is neutralized;
B)At least one Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone copolymer of 0.1 weight % to 7 weight %;With
C)At least two delustering agents, are made up of:
C1)At least one talcum of 0.5 weight % to 2 weight %, and
C2)The cellulose bead of 1 weight % to 5 weight %,
The bead of the wherein described lotion has 15 to 500 microns of average-size, and the oil phase is with the composition gross weight
The amount less than 35 weight % of amount exists.
16. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 15 is, characterized in that it further comprises at least one oil, described
Oil is selected from the oil for containing at least one amide units in the structure, cyclomethicone, comprising as side group or in silicone
The alkyl containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms of chain end, the dimethyl silicone polymer of alkoxy or phenyl and its mixture;It is excellent
Choosing selected from N- acetyl group-N- butylaminos ethyl propionate, N- lauroyl sarcosines isopropyl ester, N, N- diethyltoluamides,
Cyclohexasiloxane contains or mixtures thereof the dimethyl silicone polymer of ethylene oxide chain with 12 carbon atoms.
Include by the combination of any one of preceding claims 1 to 16 17. for the method for keratin material of nursing and/or make up
Object is administered to the step on the keratin material, especially human skin and lip.
18. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 16 is on reducing keratin material, especially human skin and lip
Flaw appearance in terms of purposes.
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WO2019228996A1 (en) * | 2018-05-29 | 2019-12-05 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition with visible oil droplets |
FR3111810B1 (en) * | 2020-06-30 | 2022-07-22 | Oreal | Composition comprising a combination of fillers |
WO2024014310A1 (en) * | 2022-07-12 | 2024-01-18 | L'oreal | Composition comprising skin care active ingredient or cellulose compound |
FR3138870A1 (en) * | 2022-08-18 | 2024-02-23 | L'oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CELLULOSIC COMPOUND |
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CN1784213A (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2006-06-07 | 宝洁公司 | Personal care compositions containing a silicone elastomer and a dispersed oil phase |
WO2009053635A1 (en) * | 2007-10-11 | 2009-04-30 | L'oreal | Structured cosmetic composition |
CN101735615A (en) * | 2008-11-07 | 2010-06-16 | 莱雅公司 | oil-in-water emulsion containing an amphiphilic polymer and a siliconised elastomer |
CN103874479A (en) * | 2011-06-09 | 2014-06-18 | 莱雅公司 | Anhydrous antisun cream comprising a non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane, a matting agent and a non-silicone organic oil thickener |
WO2014128679A1 (en) * | 2013-02-25 | 2014-08-28 | L'oreal | Gel-type cosmetic composition |
WO2015181733A1 (en) * | 2014-05-28 | 2015-12-03 | L Oreal | Cosmetic composition for make up and for taking care of keratin materials |
CN105142598A (en) * | 2013-02-25 | 2015-12-09 | 欧莱雅 | Gel-type cosmetic composition |
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2015
- 2015-12-18 CN CN201580085411.8A patent/CN108601713A/en active Pending
- 2015-12-18 WO PCT/CN2015/097867 patent/WO2017101103A1/en active Application Filing
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CN1784213A (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2006-06-07 | 宝洁公司 | Personal care compositions containing a silicone elastomer and a dispersed oil phase |
WO2009053635A1 (en) * | 2007-10-11 | 2009-04-30 | L'oreal | Structured cosmetic composition |
CN101735615A (en) * | 2008-11-07 | 2010-06-16 | 莱雅公司 | oil-in-water emulsion containing an amphiphilic polymer and a siliconised elastomer |
CN103874479A (en) * | 2011-06-09 | 2014-06-18 | 莱雅公司 | Anhydrous antisun cream comprising a non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane, a matting agent and a non-silicone organic oil thickener |
WO2014128679A1 (en) * | 2013-02-25 | 2014-08-28 | L'oreal | Gel-type cosmetic composition |
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WO2015181733A1 (en) * | 2014-05-28 | 2015-12-03 | L Oreal | Cosmetic composition for make up and for taking care of keratin materials |
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