WO2017001804A1

WO2017001804A1 - Cosmetic product made up of two gels forming a film for topical application

Info

Publication number: WO2017001804A1
Application number: PCT/FR2016/051669
Authority: WO
Inventors: Soumya TAHIRI
Original assignee: Achaladanelle
Priority date: 2015-07-02
Filing date: 2016-07-01
Publication date: 2017-01-05
Also published as: FR3038226A1; FR3038226B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic product intended to be topically applied to the skin, made up of: a first composition in the form of a gel, including at least the following components: o at least one cosmetic active principle, o at least one gelling agent, o at least one alginate and/or alginic acid. A second composition in the form of a gel includes at least the following components: o at least one gelling agent, o at least calcium ions, the two compositions being arranged in two separate containers. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use thereof.

Description

COSMETIC PRODUCT CONSISTING OF TWO GELS

FORMING A TOPICAL APPLICATION FILM

The present invention relates to a cosmetic product consisting of two separate compositions which, applied to one another on the skin, form a film which makes it possible to improve the state of the skin and in particular to moisturize and / or or soothe the skin.

Some areas of the face are more sensitive and have special features requiring appropriate cosmetic care. This is particularly the case of the contour of the mouth and especially the eye contour. Many people suffer from the presence of puffiness and dark circles that are unsightly, that age the face, and that create feelings of discomfort and discomfort in everyday life.

Faced with this problem, several solutions are currently proposed.

Firstly there are anti-pocket and concealer creams which are easily applied but which have a low efficiency, without immediate and visible results after application.

Patches imbued with natural active ingredients, such as blueberry water, are also known. These products are mainly refreshing and slightly decongestant. They have an immediate effectiveness sometimes visible but does not last in time so that these products are not satisfactory either.

Other forms of patches but fabric or silicone also exist. These patches must be glued under the eye and left to rest before removing. These products have a relatively disappointing efficiency especially in the medium and long term. In addition, these products are expensive to buy and the application is very simple and unpleasant, the very thin and very sensitive skin of the eye contour poorly supporting the aggressive effect of removal of the patch by taking off.

More recently patches made of seaweed have been proposed with a playful texture fresh and soft, easy to apply, but these products had less effectiveness on puffiness and dark circles and a lack of stability. There remains therefore a need for a product for local application, particularly suitable for the eye contour, with significant efficiency both immediate and medium / long term, and an easy and enjoyable application.

For this purpose the invention provides a product consisting of two gels which, applied to the skin, crosslink together to form a film, a flexible patch.

In particular, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic product intended for topical application to the skin, consisting of:

a first composition in the form of a gel comprising at least the following constituents:

at least one cosmetic active ingredient,

at least one gelling agent,

at least one alginate and / or alginic acid.

a second composition in the form of a gel comprising at least the following constituents:

at least one gelling agent,

at least calcium ions,

both compositions being arranged in two separate containers.

Alginate is a known natural polysaccharide extracted from brown algae. It is a bio-compatible polymer used in many applications in biotechnology, agri-food, pharmacy or cosmetics. It is known to possess the particularity of gelling in the presence of divalent cations and in particular of calcium ions. Its sol-gel transition is very rapid and gives rise to an irreversible physical hydrogel in pure water, the dissociation constant of the calcium-alginate bond being very low. Only the use of calcium chelating ions such as citrate lowers the energy barrier: calcium ions precipitate with citrate ions and the alginate gel is dissolved. Alginates are used in particular as thickeners, gelling agents, emulsifiers and stabilizers of industrial products. Alginate beads are also known in medicine for encapsulating drugs or brittle biological substances.

In cosmetics, a product in the form of a spray dedicated to beauty institutes implementing the alginate / calcium ion reaction has recently been proposed, but this product is not practical to use, it flows, it is slow to apply, causes risk of reactions and is not at all suitable for local application. Similarly, application FR2782923 describes a kit consisting of a cosmetic composition, an alginate salt and a calcium salt which consists in mixing the cosmetic composition with the alginate salt on the one hand, then with a calcium salt of on the other hand to form a mask. According to one variant, the cosmetic composition directly comprises the alginate salt and the mixture is mixed with a calcium salt before use. This product is not practical and requires the user to make himself mixtures and to use a spray. The calcium salt is in aqueous form and must be sprayed once the composition, previously mixed with the alginate, is spread on the face. The disadvantages are therefore the same as the previously mentioned products.

Advantageously, the cosmetic product according to the invention is in the form of gels based on essentially natural products which, when applied to one another, crosslink together to form a flexible film or patch. It presents a facility of application both playful and pleasant, with an effectiveness on the improvement of the skin in general and the fight against puffiness and dark circles in particular, visible immediately but also in the medium and long term, amplified by the pleasant sensation of freshness linked to fresh gels and the total absence of irritation even on the eye contour.

The invention therefore also relates to the use of the product for the cosmetic treatment of the skin in topical application, in particular a cosmetic skin care treatment method, characterized in that it consists in the implementation of the following steps :

o apply locally to the skin the first composition of the cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, o apply the second composition of the cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims over the first composition,

o wait at least 1 minute,

o remove the film formed by the reaction of the two compositions on the skin.

The method is particularly adapted to the treatment of the contour of the mouth, in particular for a moisturizing or anti-aging effect, or for the eye contour for an anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness effect, anti wrinkles / anti-wrinkles, hydrating and / or soothing and / or plumping.

Other features and advantages will become apparent from the following detailed description of the invention.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic product intended for topical application to the skin, consisting of: a first composition in the form of a gel comprising at least the following constituents:

at least one cosmetic active ingredient,

at least one gelling agent,

at least one alginate and / or alginic acid.

at least one gelling agent,

at least calcium ions,

both compositions being arranged in two separate containers.

The two compositions are in two separate containers which may nevertheless be arranged in the same application device. Preferably each container has its own dispensing device such as a metering pump. The first composition is therefore a gel comprising at least the following constituents:

at least one cosmetic active ingredient,

at least one gelling agent,

at least one alginate and / or alginic acid.

The active ingredient (s) active (s) cosmetic (s) present in this composition is (are) preferably present (s) at a concentration between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. They are preferably chosen from the draining and / or decongestant cosmetic active ingredients and in particular from esculoside, a Hamamelis extract, a cornflower extract and a red vine extract. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the first composition comprises esculoside, especially if it is dedicated to an application for the eye contour.

The first composition also comprises alginate and / or alginic acid. Alginate is a bio-polymer derived from brown algae. Preferably, the first composition comprises sodium alginate.

The alginate and / or the alginic acid may be present in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

The second composition of the cosmetic product according to the invention comprises:

at least one gelling agent,

o at least calcium ions. The calcium ions are preferably present in the form of calcium salt (s), in particular in the form of calcium carbonates. The salt (s) of calcium are preferably present in a proportion of 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

The second composition also preferably comprises at least one cosmetic active agent, still more preferably at least two cosmetic active agents, in particular at least one softening and / or moisturizing cosmetic active ingredient and a soothing and / or anti-inflammatory cosmetic active ingredient. The softening and / or hydrating active ingredient may be chosen from Aloe Vera, hyaluronic acid, glycerol, collagen or resveratrol and the soothing and / or anti-inflammatory active ingredient may be chosen from a Portulaca extract, chamomile, candela, pomegranate extract and jojoba oil. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the second composition comprises Aloe Vera and an extract of Portulaca especially if it is dedicated to an application for the eye contour.

The presence of at least one gelling agent in each of the two compositions is necessary to confer the gel form of these compositions. The gelling agents are preferably gelling agents having at least one of the following characteristics, even more preferably all the following characteristics:

good resistance to ionic solutions,

- non-spinning,

non-sticky,

natural.

They must allow a good grip of the composition and a good spreading.

The gelling agent (s) may be chosen for example from xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose.

According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the compositions of the product according to the invention each comprise at least two gelling agents, preferably they contain two gelling agents. It may be in particular xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose.

The agent (s) gelling in the first or the second composition may be present in amounts of 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The choice of gelling agents and their concentration in the compositions should make it possible to obtain gels preferably having viscosities greater than 4000 cps (R4 RPM20), more preferably greater than 9000 cps (R5 RPM20).

For reasons of ease of use and efficiency, a cosmetic product is preferred in which the first and second compositions have viscosities that are identical to plus or minus 40%, preferably to plus or minus 20%.

They may also contain preservatives. In this case the preservatives must be adapted to the envisaged applications (no irritations) and compatible with the other constituents, in particular the active ingredients. It may be, for example, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol or tropolone.

It may also contain conventional excipients known to those skilled in the art compatible with the other constituents of the compositions.

The cosmetic product according to the invention is intended to be used for topical application to the skin to improve the condition of the skin.

In particular, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic skin care treatment method, characterized in that it consists in the implementation of the following steps:

o wait at least 1 minute,

o remove the film formed by the reaction of the two compositions on the skin. By film or patch within the meaning of the invention is meant the product of the crosslinking of the two gels through the reaction of the alginate of the first composition with calcium ions of the second composition. Indeed, when the second composition is applied to the first, the electrostatic interactions between the divalent Ca ²⁺ ions and the carboxylate groups C 00 ^" of the alginate lead to a rapid precipitation leading to the formation of a single gel or film or patch .

This film must remain applied locally for at least 1 minute, preferably at least 3 minutes, and even more preferably between 3 and 10 minutes, so that the active ingredients act. Advantageously, the active ingredients penetrate well into the skin and the product provides an original sensation of freshness and wellbeing where it is applied.

According to a suitable embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention can be useful for:

a moisturizing and / or anti-wrinkle effect applied to the contour of the mouth,

- an anti-puffiness and anti-dark circles effect, anti wrinkles / anti-wrinkles, moisturizing, soothing in application at the level of the eye contour.

The invention is now illustrated by two examples of non-limiting composition and test results.

Example 1

Example 1 of cosmetic product according to the invention comprises

a first composition constituted by:

Final quantity

INCI designation

%

AQ.UA QSP100

GLYCERIN 4.0 to 8.0

ALGIN 1.0 to 3.0

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.2 to 0.5

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.2 to 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.3

ESCULIN 0.1 to 0.5

PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.01 to 0.05

ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE

0.01 to 0.05

POWDER a second composition constituted by:

Final quantity in

INCI designation

%

AQ.UA QSP100

CALCIUM CHLORIDE 1 to 5

GLYCERIN l to 5

XANTHAN GUM 1-3

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.5 to 1.0

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.1 to 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.3

TROPOLONE 0.02 to 0.08

This product is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of the eye contour and has a very good anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness, anti wrinkles / anti-wrinkles, moisturizing and soothing.

Tests have been carried out on this formulation applied to the eye contour.

The operating procedure is described below concerning the effects on dark circles and puffiness:

- Number of volunteers and main characteristics: 20 female adult volunteers aged 30 to 65, with normal to dry eye skin, with 20 volunteers, 50% smokers, 50% with pockets and 50% with undereye bags ;

- Modality of application: application once a day of the product on the eye contour (application according to the method according to the invention);

- Evaluation criteria: clinical evaluation by a dermatologist after 14 and 28 days of application.

The average of the results obtained is:

- an improvement of the rings at day 14 of 14.89% and at day 28 of 17.02%,

an improvement of the bags at day 14 of 28.57% and at day 28 of 40.00%. The operating protocol is described below with respect to the hydrating potential, with the same formula comprising the same two compositions:

- Number of volunteers: 10 women aged 18 to 70 with dry skin in the legs, defined by corneometric values less than 50 ua,

- Application rules :

o application of the first composition and then the second composition on a site of 35 cm ² in single application on the outer face of the legs,

o wait 10 minutes,

o removal of the flexible patch formed by the two layers, o light massage to absorb the excess.

Evaluation criteria: measurement of the hydration gain up to 4 hours after application The results of the corneometric test, obtained, are indicated in Table 1 below:

Table 1

There is excellent hydration capacity of the cosmetic product according to the invention and an ability to extend over time.

Example 2

Example 2 of cosmetic product according to the invention comprises: a first composition constituted by:

INCI designation Final quantity in% AQ.UA QSP100 GLYCERIN 4.0 to 8.0 ALGIN 1.0 to 3.0

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.2 to 0.5

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.2 to 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.3

SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.01 to 0.5

PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.01 to 0.5

ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE

0.01 to 0.05

POWDER

a second composition constituted by:

Final quantity in

INCI designation

%

AOUA QSP100

CALCIUM CHLORIDE 1 to 5

GLYCERIN l to 5

XANTHAN GUM 1-3

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.5 to 1.0

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.1 to 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.3

TROPOLONE 0.02 to 0.08 This product is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of the contour of the mouth and has a very good anti-wrinkle, wrinkle filler and plumping effect.

Example 3

Example 3 of cosmetic product according to the invention comprises:

a first composition constituted by:

INCI designation Final quantity in% AQ.UA QSP100

GLYCERIN 4.0 to 8.0

ALGIN 1.0 to 3.0

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.2 to 0.5

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.2 to 0.6

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.4

ESCULIN 0.1 to 0.5

PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.01 to 0.05

ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE

0.01 to 0.05

POWDER

TROPOLONE 0.002 to 0.008

Cl 14700 0.008 to 0.001

a second composition constituted by:

Final quantity in

INCI designation

%

AQ.UA QSP100

CALCIUM CHLORIDE 1 to 5

GLYCERIN l to 5

XANTHAN GUM 1-3

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.5 to 1.0

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.1 to 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.1 to 0.3

1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.1 to 0.4

TROPOLONE 0.002 to 0.008

This composition has been tested to evaluate the effectiveness of the invention on puffiness and dark circles.

The study was carried out on 22 adult female volunteers of 48 years of age, between 33 and 55 years old, with all skin types around the eyes, 11 with pockets and 11 with dark circles.

Each volunteer was examined at the beginning and end of the study by a dermatologist who evaluated and noted the cutaneous signs observed on the contours of the eyes and checked the inclusion and non-inclusion criteria.

At the beginning of the study, each volunteer received a sample to be tested as well as the conditions of use of the product.

The product was applied by the volunteers once a day for 28 days in the eye area.

At the end of the study, the dermatologist again evaluated and noted the cutaneous signs.

To evaluate the efficacy of the product according to the invention, at the beginning of the test at D1 and at the end of the test at D28, the dermatologist noted the following items from 0 to 7 for the bags and from 0 to 9 for the rings. : - Pockets: 0 = not significant pockets - 7 = large pockets,

- Dark circles: 0 = important rings - 9 = dark circles.

The results of the efficacy on the bags evaluated by the dermatologist after 28 days of application are presented in Table 2 below:

Table 2 Under the conditions of this study, the cosmetic product according to the invention makes it possible to reduce eye bags by 34.62%.

The results of the efficacy on dark circles evaluated by the dermatologist after 28 days of application are presented in Table 3 below: N ° Inclusion Dark Circles

Jl J2

1 2 2

2 1 2

4 2 2

6 2 2

7 1 1

9 3 3

11 5 6

16 5 5

19 2 3

20 3 4

21 1 1

Average 2.45 2.82

Standard deviation 1.44 1.60

% of variation 14.81

Table 3

Under the conditions of this study, the cosmetic product according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the pockets of the eyes by 34.62%.

The cosmetic product according to the invention thus makes it possible both to improve the bags and the rings.

In addition the product is well tolerated, no skin reaction was found during the dermatological examination.

Claims

1. Cosmetic product for topical application to the skin, consisting of:

at least one cosmetic active ingredient,

at least one gelling agent,

at least one alginate and / or alginic acid.

at least one gelling agent,

at least calcium ions,

both compositions being arranged in two separate containers.

2. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that the active principle (s) of the first composition is (are) present at a concentration of between 0.01 and 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active ingredient (s) (s) of the first composition is (are) chosen (s) from the cosmetic active ingredients draining and / or decongestant.

4. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active ingredient (s) (s) of the first composition is (are) chosen from esculoside, an extract of Hamamelis, an extract of cornflower and a red vine extract.

5. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alginate in the first composition is present in the form of sodium alginate.

6. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alginate is present in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

7. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition also comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

8. Cosmetic product according to claim 7, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one softening and / or moisturizing cosmetic active ingredient and a soothing and / or anti-inflammatory cosmetic active ingredient.

9. Cosmetic product according to claim 8, characterized in that the active ingredient softening and / or moisturizing is selected from Aloe Vera, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, collagen, resveratrol, and the soothing active ingredient and / or or anti-inflammatory is selected from Portulaca extract, chamomile, candela, pomegranate extract and jojoba oil.

10. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one calcium salt.

11. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least calcium carbonates.

12. Cosmetic product according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the salt (s) of calcium are present in a proportion of 1 to 8% by weight of the total weight of the second composition.

13. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and the second composition each comprise at least two gelling agents.

14. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gelling agent (s) present in each of the compositions are chosen from xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose.

15. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent (s) gelling agent (s) present in each of the compositions is (are) present (s) at a rate of 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions have viscosities greater than 4000 cps (R4 RPM20).

17. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions have viscosities greater than 9000 cps (R5 RPM20).

18. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions have viscosities identical to plus or minus 40%.

19. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and the second composition are in two separate containers arranged in the same application device.

20. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each of the two containers has its own dispensing device.

21. Cosmetic product according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dispensing device is a metering pump.

22. Use of the product according to one of the preceding claims, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin for topical application.

23. Cosmetic skin care treatment method, characterized in that it consists in the implementation of the following steps:

o apply locally to the skin the first composition of the cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 to 21,

o applying the second composition of the cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 to 21 over the first composition, o wait at least 1 minutes,

o remove the film formed by the reaction of the two compositions on the skin.

24. A cosmetic skin care treatment method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the compositions are applied at the level of the eye contour or the contour of the mouth.

25. A method of cosmetic skin care treatment according to claim 22 or 23, for the fight against puffiness and / or dark circles, and / or against wrinkles and fine lines and / or for a moisturizing and / or soothing action and / or plumping.