WO2016206036A1

WO2016206036A1 - Pearlescent base and composition comprising it

Info

Publication number: WO2016206036A1
Application number: PCT/CN2015/082307
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wei Zhang; Yuanlin SHI; Minya YAN; Hui Liu
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-06-25
Filing date: 2015-06-25
Publication date: 2016-12-29
Also published as: CN107708658A

Abstract

A pearlescent base comprises a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 20 carbon atoms; b) at least one fatty amide of formula (I) R₁CONR₂R₃, wherein R₁ is C₁₇-₂₆ hydrocarbon group, R₂ is hydrogen, or C_1-4 alkyl group, R₃ is C_2-10 alkanol group, c) at least one pearlescent agent chosen from mono or diester of a fatty acid and ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol; and d) at least one nonionic surfactant. A composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one pearlescent base as described, and at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof is also provided.

Description

Pearlescent base and composition comprising it

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. More specifically, the present invention relates to a pearlescent base which has an improved stability, pearlescent effect, and whiteness when using in a composition comprising surfactants. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, such as the hair.

Background of the invention

In the field of cosmetics, products with iridescent, shimmering, metalized effect, combining with whiteness shades are widely favored by the consumers, due to their aesthetic appeal and the fact that they give the product an appearance of richness.

To this end, pearling agents, or pearlescent agents are used. By “pearling agents” or “pearlescent agents” we intend to mean compounds or substances which produce an iridescent, shimmering or metalized appearance or effect. These compounds or substances have crystals in the dispersion to reflect light.

Efforts have been made to improve the stabilities of compositions comprising the pearlescent agents. US 6, 521, 238B disclosed a composition comprising surfactant base, linear, saturated, long-chain fatty alcohols, and additional opacifiers and/or pearlescent agents (for example fatty dialkyl ethers) . Such a product enables the compositions with a surfactant base to have improved pearling effect. However the conventional method involves a heating process, which limits the use of this technology. The pearlescent effect may fade at high temperature, for example at 45℃.

It is also known to use “cold pearlescent agent” , which is a pre-crystallized organic pearlescent dispersion, in formulations. PCT/CN2012/077188 disclosed a pearlescent agent comprising at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, at least one fatty amide, at least one alkylpolyglycoside, and at least one conditioning agent.

However the pearlescent effect of a composition containing this type of cold pearlescent agent is still not satisfying, especially shampoo products, and the pearlescent effect fades over time at high temperature, such as 45℃.

Mentions may also be made of the products on the market using pearlescent agent such as glycol distearate to provide the expected aesthetic appearance, however it is observed that the product has a dull appearance, which is not favored by the consumers.

Therefore there is a need for a pearlescent base which has an improved pearlescent effect and whiteness appearance, when using in a composition caring for keratin fibers, especially for washing keratin fibers.

Furthermore, there exists a need for a pearlescent base with a stable pearlescent effect at high temperature, such as 45℃, when using in a cosmetic composition treating keratin fibers.

In addition, there is also a need for a pearlescent base which, when using in a composition caring for keratin fibers, comprising specific conditioning ingredients provides an improved cosmetic performance thereof, such as softness, suppleness, conditioning effect, and manageability.

By “manageability” we intend to mean that when applying the compositions of the present invention onto keratin fibers, such as hair, it enables an improved detangling and long-lasting alignment of the hair.

Summary of the invention

An objective of the current invention is to provide a pearlescent base with an improved pearlescent effect and whiteness when formulating in a composition for treating keratin fibers. Moreover, such a pearlescent base, while formulating in the composition, provides stable pearlescent effect at high temperature, for example, at 45℃.

This objective is achieved by a pearlescent base comprising fatty alcohols, specific fatty amides, specific pearlescent agents, and nonionic surfactant (s) . In one aspect, the present invention provides a pearlescent base comprising:

a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 20 carbon atoms；

b) at least one fatty amide of formula (I) ,

R₁ CONR₂R₃ (I)

wherein

R₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 17 to 26 carbon atoms,

R₂ is hydrogen, or a linear or a branched, saturated or unsaturated C_1-4 alkyl group,

R₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_2-10 alkanol group,

c) at least one pearlescent agent chosen from mono or diester of a fatty acid and ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol； and

d) at least one nonionic surfactant.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one pearlescent base as described, and at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof. The composition as such exhibits an improved manageability, and an improved stability of pearlescent effect at high temperature, such as at 45℃.

The term “manageability” used herein, refers to mean that when applying the compositions of the invention onto keratin fibers, such as hair, it enables an improved detangling and long-lasting alignment of the hair.

For the purpose of the present invention, “keratin fiber” as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example hair.

In another aspect, the present invention provides a process for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition according to the present invention.

Detailed Description of the Present Invention

Fatty alcohol

The pearlescent base of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 20 carbon atoms.

The term “fatty alcohol” used herein is intended to mean R-OH (formula (II)) , in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 40 and preferably from 20 to 30 carbon atoms. Optionally, R may be substituted with two or more hydroxyl groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, R denotes a saturated C _20-30 alkyl group. Examples of such fatty alcohols are arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, 1-heptacosanol, montanyl alcohol, 1-Nonacosanol, myricyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

According to an even more preferred embodiment, R denotes a saturated C _20-24 alkyl group, such as arachydyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or a mixture thereof.

In a specific embodiment, the pearlescent base of the invention can contain a mixture of fatty alcohols. In that case, the fatty alcohols other than the one with the alkyl chain having at least 20 carbon atoms may contain from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 19 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohol other than the one with the alkyl chain having at least 20 carbon atoms that can be present in the pearlescent based are for example cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

When the pearlescent base contains a mixture of fatty alcohols, the fatty alcohol with a fatty chain having at least 20 carbon atoms represents at least 50 ％by weight of the total weight of all the fatty alcohol in the composition, more particularly at least 70％by weight.

As an example of fatty alcohols useful in the pearlescent base of the invention, the commercial product,

1822 C from Sasol, can be cited. Nafol 1822 C is referenced as behenyl alcohol in the Seventh Edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Volume 1, page 123 and is defined to be a mixture of fatty alcohols containing chiefly n-docosanol, a C₂₂ alcohol.

Another commercial product that can be used in the composition of the invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF) that contains behenyl alcohol. Another representative mixture of fatty alcohols is the product sold under the name Nafol 2298 by the company Condea, which contains 98％C₂₂ alcohol.

When a mixture of fatty alcohols is used, according to one embodiment, C₁₈represents less than 7％by weight, and the C₂₀ fatty alcohol represents less than 20％by weight, relative to the total weight of the alcohol mixture.

In particular, said at least one fatty alcohol containing at least 20 carbon atoms is present in amount ranging from 0.1％to 20％by weight, more preferably 3％to 10％by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.

Fatty amide

The pearlescent base of the invention comprises at least one fatty amide of formula (I) :

R₁CONR₂R₃ (I)

wherein R₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 17 to 26 carbon atoms, and R₂ is hydrogen, or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_1-4 alkyl group, whereas R₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_2-10 alkanol group.

Preferably, R₁ is a fatty acid group having 17 to 24 carbon atoms, R₂ is hydrogen, and R₃ is a C_2-4 alkanol group.

More preferably, R₃ is an ethanol group, propanol group, or isopropanol group, especially an ethanol group.

More specific examples include stearic acid monoethanolamide (stearamide MEA) , oleic acid monoethanolamide, oleic acid diethanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, or a combination thereof.

Among them, stearic acid monoethanolamide is preferable. Such product is commercially available, for example, such as the one sold by Rhodia under the trade name Mackamide SMV, which is a mixture of stearamide MEA, ethanolamine, and stearic acid.

In the pearlescent base of the invention, the fatty amide is present in amount ranging from 0.5％to 15％by weight, preferably from 1％to 10％by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.

Pearlescent agent

The pearlescent base of the present invention comprises at least one pearlescent agent, chosen from at least one mono or diester of a fatty acid and ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol.

The fatty acid according to the present invention is preferably a C_8-30 fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Examples of the fatty acid of the invention are, for example, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the fatty acid according to the present invention is a C_12-24 fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. When a polyethylene glycol is included, the mono or diester comprises preferably 2 to 10 ethylene glycol units, more preferably 2 to 5 ethylene glycol units.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pearlescent agent is chosen from a monoester or diester of C_12-24 fatty acid and ethylene glycol.

Examples of the monoester or diester as such are, for example, glycol stearate, glycol distearate, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the ester is a diester of stearic acid and ethylene glycol. Such product is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Ercarel EGDO sold by the company Erca.

Preferably, in the pearlescent base of the invention, the pearlescent agent is present in amount ranging from 1％to 50％by weight, preferably from 2％to 40％by weight, more preferably from 5％to 30％by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.

Nonionic surfactant

The pearlescent base of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

They may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C_1-20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30； or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, for example laureth-12 which is sold, for example, by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Rewopal 12； polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups； ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N- (C₆-₂₄ alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C_10-14 alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C_10-14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly) glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula (III) :

R₄O- (R₅O) _t- (G) _v (III)

in which:

-R₄ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms；

-R₅ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

-G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

-t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

-v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

-R₄ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

-R₅ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

-t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

-G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose；

-the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4； the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. C₈/C₁₆ alkyl (poly) glycosides 1, 4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names

(600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or

(818, 1200 and 2000) ； the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10； the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of C₈/C₁₆-alkyl (poly) glycosides 1, 4, especially as an aqueous 53％solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference

2000 UP.

Preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from condensates of ethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C_6-24 alkyl) polyglycosides, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a polyethoxylated C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol, such as capryl alcohol, pelargonic alcohol, capric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, 1-heptacosanol, montanyl alcohol, 1-nonacosanol, myricyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, or a (C_8-18 alkyl) (poly) glycoside such as caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, undecyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof, wherein these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention is chosen from polyethoxylated laury alcohol comprising from 4 to 24 mol of ethylene oxide, (C_8-14 alkyl) (poly) glycoside, or a mixture thereof.

Even more preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is chosen from laureth-12 (polyethoxylated lauryl alcohol containing in average 12 ethylene groups) , decyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the pearlescent base according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant (s) in an amount ranging from 0.01％to 20％by weight, especially ranging from 0.1％to 15％by weight, better still from 0.2％to 10％by weight and preferentially from 0.5％to 5％by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a pearlescent base comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the base:

a) from 01％to 20％of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (II)

R-OH (II)

wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 22 to 24 carbon atoms；

b) from 0.5％to 15％of at least one fatty amide of formula (I) ,

R₁ CONR₂R₃ (I)

wherein

R₂ is hydrogen, or a C_1-4 alkyl group,

R₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_2-10 alkanol group,

c) from 1％to 50％of at least one pearlescent agent of diester of stearic acid and ethylene glycol； and

from 0.01％to 20％of at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohols, (C_8-18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, or a mixture thereof, wherein these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, or a mixture thereof； more preferably chosen from polyethoxylated laury alcohol comprising from 4 to 24 mol of ethylene oxide, (C_8-14 alkyl) (poly) glycoside, or a mixture thereof.

Composition for treating keratin fibers

The present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one pearlescent base as described above, and at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof.

The composition of the present invention is for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises, as the pearlescent base described above, from 0.5％to 30％by weight, preferably from 1％to 15％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

i) Anionic surfactants

The composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant or “surface-active agent” .

Anionic surfactant is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound with a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic part wherein the hydrophilic part carries as ionic or ionisable group only anionic group with a cationic counterion which is generally metallic (alkali metal, such as Na or K) or ammonium, capable of dissociating to give anions in aqueous solution.

More particularly the anionic group of the anionic surfactant is belonging to the group chosen from: C (O) OH, –C (O) O^-, -SO₃H, -S (O) ₂O^-, -OS (O) ₂OH, -OS(O) ₂O^-, -P (O) OH₂, -P (O) ₂O^-, -P (O) O₂ ^-, -P (OH) ₂, ＝P (O) OH, -P (OH) O^-, ＝P(O) O^-, ＝POH, ＝PO^-, the cationic counter anion being usually selected from alkali metal such as sodium, or alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or organic cationic counter anion such as ammonium salts, amine salts, or aminoalcohol salts. The surfactants may also occur in their acid forms.

Mention may be made, as anionic surfactants, of surfactants comprising carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactosiduronic acids, salts of ether carboxylic acids surfactants and their mixtures.

More particularly, the anionic surfactants according to the invention are chosen from:

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates or monoglyceride sulfates； preferably for this type of anionic surfactants, (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, or a mixture is used. Mentions may be made of sulfate of ether of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxide, containing from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups.

More preferably, the anionic surfactants is chosen from sulfate of ether of lauryl alcohol and alkylene oxide containing from 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene oxide groups. For example, sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 2.2 ethylene oxide groups that are sold by the companie Cognis (BASF) under the name

AOS 225 UP, Rhodia under the name

esb-70/fla3, and Clariant under the name

LRO L’O, and sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 1 ethylene oxide group that is sold by the company Zhejiang Zanyu Technology under the name SLES (N1 EO) .

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfonates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkylamidesulfonates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates；

· (C₆-C₃₀) akyl phosphates；

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or (C₆-C₃₀) alkylamido sulfosuccinates；

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfoacetates；

· (C₆-C₂₄) acylsarcosinates；

· (C₆-C₂₄) acylglutamates；

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers；

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates；

· (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfosuccinamates；

· (C₆-C₂₄) acyl isethionates, for example sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isthionate； mentiones may be made of the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate which is sold under the trade name

LQ-CLR-SB by the company Innospec Active Chemicals；

· N- [ (C₆-C₂₄) acyl] taurates；

· salts of fatty acids；

· (C₈-C₂₀) acyl lactylates；

· salts of (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids；

· salts of (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, of (C₆-C₃₀) alkylaryl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids or of (C₆-C₃₀) -alkylamido polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids；

· and their mixtures.

The alkyl or acyl radicals of these various anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably from 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.

Advantageously, according to an embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, (C₆-C₃₀) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, (C₆-C₂₄) acyl isethionates, or a mixture thereof.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is preferably chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups.

As an example, the product sodium laureth sulfate containing averagely 1 ethylene oxide group sold by the company Galaxy Surfactants under the trade name Calaxy Les 170 may be used in the present invention.

Advantageously, the content of anionic surfactant (s) represents from 0.1％to 50％by weight, preferably from 1％to 40％by weight, more preferably from 5％to 25％by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

ii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

According to an embodiment of the invention the at least one surfactant is chosen from the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made in particular of (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈-C₂₀ alkyl) amido (C₂-C₈ alkyl) betaines and (C₈–C₂₀ alkyl) amido (C₂-C₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Among the (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, mentions may be made of behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename

BB/FLA.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1) and (A2) below:

(A1) R_a-CON (Z) CH_2- (CH₂) _m-N⁺ (R_b) (R_c) (CH₂COO^-)

in which:

R_a represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R_b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R_c represents a carboxymethyl group；

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group；

(A2) R_a’ -CON (Z) CH_2- (CH₂) _m’ -N (B) (B')

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX' , with X' representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ’ , -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ’ , or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents - (CH₂) _z-Y' , with z ＝ 1 or 2, and Y'representing -COOH, -COOZ’ , -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z’ ,

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium； an ammonium ion； or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

R_a' represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C₁₇ alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

The compounds corresponding to formula (A1) are preferred.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A1) , mentions may be made of cocamidopropyl betaine, for example the product sold under the tradename Dehyton PK 45 by Cognis (BASF) .

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3) :

(A3) R_a” -NH-CH (Y” ) - (CH₂) n-C (O) -NH- (CH₂) n’ -N (R_d) (R_e)

in which:

-R_a” represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a” -C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil；

-Y'’ represents the group –C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ” , -CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃H or the group -CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃-Z” , with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine；

-R_d and R_e represent, independently of each other, a C₁-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical； and

-n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3) , mention may in

particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is present in an amount ranging from 1％to 70％by weight, preferably from 3％to 50％by weight, more preferably from 5％to 15％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 1％to 15％of at least one pearlescent base as described above, from 5％to 25％of at least one anionic surfactant, and from 5％to 15％of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 1％to 15％of at least one pearlescent base as described above, from 5％to 25％of at least one anionic surfactant of sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups, and from 5％to 15％of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines.

Additional ingredient

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one cationic polymer.

The cationic polymer, when exists, is chosen from:

(1) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, such as quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising one or more fatty chains, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

In a more preferred embodiment, the cationic cellulose is chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least an alkyl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more specifically from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

The cationic cellulose is preferably a cationic polymer having the INCI name

POLYQUATERNIUM-67.

POLYQUATERNIUM-67 is offered commercially under the names SoftCAT^TMSL, SoftCAT^TM, or SoftCAT^TMSK (Dow) .

(2) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII) :

in which:

-k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1；

-R₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group；

-R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C₁-C₄ amidoalkyl group； or alternatively R₁₀ and R₁₁ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl； R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms；

-Y^-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

Preferably, the cationic polymer, when present, is chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least an alkyl group containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, dimethyldiallylammonium salt homopolymers, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, when present, the amount of the cationic polymer is present from 0.01％to 10％by weight, preferably from 0.05％to 5％by weight, more preferably from 0.1％to 2％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

Formulation example

The following formulas of pearlescent bases were prepared:

Comparative 1’ contains Cocamide MEA instead of the fatty amide of the present invention； besides, it doesn’ t contain Glycol distearate.

The pearlescent bases were formulated following the steps of: heating phase A to 85℃and mixing until homogeneous；

adding phase A to phase B at 80℃using homogenizer Rotor/Stator for 10 minutes；

cooling the mixture to 25℃at the speed of 0.5℃to 1℃per minute.

Both the invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1’ have good pearlescent effects.

Then the following shampoo formulas were prepared using the invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1’a s described above:

The formulas listed above were prepared by mixing the pearlescent bases of the invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1’ , respectively, with the other ingredients under room temperature (25℃) .

Evaluation example

The pearlescent effects, whiteness, stability of pearlescent effect at 45℃, as well as the cosmetic performance, especially the manageability of the formulas listed above were evaluated, and scores 1-5 were given to each of the effects listed above, by 6 experts, wherein:

1:very poor pearlescent effect, very dull appearance, no stability, or very bad cosmetic performance, or a mixture of all effects；

2:poor pearlescent effect, dull appearance, bad stability, or bad cosmetic performance, or a mixture of all effects；

3:good pearlescent, white appearance, good stability, and good cosmetic performance；

4:very good pearlescent, white and pleasant appearance, very good stability, and very good cosmetic performance；

5:excellent pearlescent effect, white and pleasant appearance, excellent stability, and excellent cosmetic performance.

Pearlescent effect and whiteness of the formulas were evaluated by observing the formulas under the natural light by the 6 experts.

Stability of the formulas was evaluated by placing the formulas at 45℃for 2 months.

Cosmetic effect of the formulas was evaluated by applying the shampoo formulas as listed above on to the middle-length hair, i.e., hair length is at the shoulder (light damaged hair swatch sold by the company IHIP) . The hair was massaged and foam was formed. After 3 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water, and dried for evaluating the cosmetic effect.

The evaluation results were as follow.

According to the evaluation results listed above, it is observed that:

The invention formulas 2 to 4 have stable pearlescent effect at 45℃, whereas the comparative formula 2’ is not stable at 45℃；

while all formulas exhibit good pearlescent effects, the invention formulas have in general better pearlescent effects comparing to the comparative formula 2’ ； the whiteness of the shampoo formulas according to the invention are improved, as comparing to the comparative formula 2’ ； in terms of cosmetic performances, specifically softness, suppleness, and manageability, the invention formula 2 exhibits excellent effects and is a preferred embodiment of the invention. Both the invention formulas 3 and 4 possess improved manageability, comparing to the comparative formula 2’ .

Claims

A pearlescent base comprising:

a)at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 20 carbon atoms,

b)at least one fatty amide of formula (I) ,

R₁ CONR₂R₃ (I)

wherein

R₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 17 to 26 carbon atoms,

R₂ is hydrogen, or a linear or a branched, saturated or unsaturated C_1-4 alkyl group,

R₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_2-10 group,

c)at least one pearlescent agent chosen from mono or diester of a fatty acid and ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, and

d)at least one nonionic surfactant.
The pearlescent base of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 20 carbon atoms is a fatty alcohol of formula (II)

R-OH (II)

wherein

R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 20 to 40, preferably 20 to 30, wherein optionally substituted with two or more hydroxyl groups； R denotes a saturated C _20-30 alkyl group； more preferably R denotes a saturated C _20-24 alkyl group.
The pearlescent base of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty alcohol is present in amount from 0.1％ to 20％ by weight, more preferably 3％ to 10％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein in the formula (I)

R₁CONR₂R₃ (I) ,

R₁ is a fatty acid group having 17 to 24 carbon atoms,

R₂ is hydrogen, and

R₃ is a C_2-4 ethanol group, more preferably an ethanol group；

preferably, the fatty amide of formula (I) is chosen from stearic acid monoethanolamide, oleic acid monoethanolamide, oleic acid

diethanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, or a mixture thereof； more preferably the fatty amide is stearic acid monoethanolamide.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein said fatty amide is present in amount from 0.5％ to 15％ by weight, preferably from 1％ to 10％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the pearlescent agent is chosen from a monoester or diester of C_12-24 fatty acid and ethylene glycol； preferably chosen from glycol stearate, glycol distearate, or a mixture thereof.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the pearlescent agent is present in an amount from 1％ to 50％ by weight, preferably from 2％ to 40％ by weight, more preferably from 5％ to 30％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the nonionic surfactant is chosen from condensates of ethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C_6-24 alkyl) polyglycosides, or a mixture thereof； preferably chosen from polyethoxylated C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohols, (C_8-18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, or mixtures thereof, wherein these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, or a mixture thereof； more preferably chosen from polyethoxylated laury alcohol comprising from 4 to 24 mol of ethylene oxide, (C_8-14 alkyl) (poly) glycoside, or a mixture thereof.
The pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.01％ to 20％ by weight, especially ranging from 0.1％ to 15％ by weight, better still from 0.2％ to 10％ by weight and preferentially from 0.5％ to 5％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the pearlescent base.
A composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

a)at least one pearlescent base according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10； and

b)at least one surfactant chosen from chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof.
The composition of claim 11, wherein the pearlescent base is present in an amount from 0.5％ to 30％ by weight, preferably from 1％ to 15％ by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of claim 11, wherein the surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate containing in average 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups, (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, or a mixture thereof.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 11 to 13, further comprises at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, or a mixture thereof； preferably chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least an alkyl group containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, dimethyldiallylammonium salt homopolymers, or a mixture thereof； more preferably the cationic polymer is a mixture thereof.
A process for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition of any one of the preceding claims 11 to 14.