WO2016082061A1 - Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2016082061A1
WO2016082061A1 PCT/CN2014/091990 CN2014091990W WO2016082061A1 WO 2016082061 A1 WO2016082061 A1 WO 2016082061A1 CN 2014091990 W CN2014091990 W CN 2014091990W WO 2016082061 A1 WO2016082061 A1 WO 2016082061A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
sunscreen cosmetic
dimethicone
composition according
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2014/091990
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Xiaowei Chang
Yihua Jiang
Original Assignee
Henkel (China) Investment Co. Ltd.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel (China) Investment Co. Ltd. filed Critical Henkel (China) Investment Co. Ltd.
Priority to PCT/CN2014/091990 priority Critical patent/WO2016082061A1/en
Publication of WO2016082061A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016082061A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof.
  • the present invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic composition having a sun protection factor of larger than 50 and the preparation method thereof.
  • Sun radiation damage is more and more recognized as the major hazardous source that posed threat to human skin.
  • Sunscreen products have been on the market for long years to tackle the concern of UV radiation.
  • traditional UV filters no matter based on water-in-oil or oil-in-water system, largely employ organic UV filters which were perceived as oily skin feel, without mentioning their tendency to degrade as potential source of hazard to skin.
  • organic UV filters For some sunscreen products using inorganic UV filters as major constituent rather than organic ones, the high loading of inorganic UV filters is inevitable to get the sufficient sun protection.
  • the formulation in the meantime is hard to stabilize with such high amount of pigments dosage, while the perception can be too dry and too white.
  • a sunscreen cosmetic composition having advantages of a boosting SPF value, a silky sensory, no oil feel, low cost, ease to prepare and use in cosmetic product, such as BB/CC cream.
  • One aspect of the present invention is to provide a sunscreen cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • the sun protection factor of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 50, and the weight percentage is based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  • Another aspect discloses a method for preparing the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising:
  • Still another aspect discloses a sunscreen cosmetic product comprising the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • Still another aspect discloses a method for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation, comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention to said skin.
  • Still another aspect discloses the use of the sunscreen cosmetic composition or the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation.
  • the present invention provides a sunscreen cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • the sun protection factor of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 50, preferably larger than 55, and the weight percentage is based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  • sunscreen factor refers to the in vitro sun protection factor in the range of UVB and UVA wavelengths, i.e. the wavelength range from 290 nm to 400 nm, and indicates the level of performance of a sunscreen cosmetic composition in protecting against sunlight-induced erythema in the UVB and UVA wavelength range.
  • the silicone oil used in the sunscreen cosmetic composition refers to a fluid organopolysiloxane composition.
  • the silicone oil may be at least one volatile or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicone oils.
  • the silicone oil can for example be a substantially linear polydiorganosiloxane, such as a polydimethylsiloxane, or a branched and/or cyclic polysiloxanes.
  • the silicone oil may be a non-reactive fluid, for example a linear polydimethylsiloxane having trimethylsiloxy units, although it may be an organopolysiloxane fluid having reactive groups, such as hydroxyl (either Si-OH or alcohol groups) , amino, vinyl or Si-H groups.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition in the present invention contains no reactive silicone oil.
  • the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of cyclomethylpolysiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate, dilauroyl trimetylolpropane siloxy silicate, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and combination
  • the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and combination thereof. More preferably, the silicone oil is selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and combination thereof.
  • the silicone oil can for example have a kinematic viscosity in the range of 1 to 10000 cSt (centiStokes) , preferably 5 to 5000 cSt, more preferably 10 to 1000 cSt.
  • the amount of the silicone oil contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 5 to 35%, preferably 8 to 25%, more preferably 10 to 20%by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the silicone oil is lower than 5%by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 of the product may not be achieved. If the amount of the silicone oil is higher than 35%by weight, the product system may not be stable.
  • the silicone oil may be prepared by means of conventional methods known in the art or are commercially available for example under the trade name of Dow Corning Fluid or Xiameter PMX series products, e.g. Dimethicone 350 cSt or Dow Corning 556 from Dow Corning.
  • the silicone elastomer blend used in the sunscreen cosmetic composition refers to the art-recognized definition of silicone elastomer blends, which in its broadest reading includes a blend of a chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer and a carrier fluid.
  • the chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer contained in the silicone elastomer blend may be selected from the group consisting of polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, polyoxyalkylene modified polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, polyglycerin modified polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, and combination thereof.
  • the silicone elastomer blend is selected from the group consisting of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, (PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/
  • the carrier fluid contained in the silicone elastomer blend includes but is not limited to hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil.
  • the hydrocarbon used herein is selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, ozocerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, squalene, petrolatum, isohexadecane, isododecane, polybutene, hydrogenated poiyisobutene, po!ydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane, and combination thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon is selected from petrolatum, isohexadecane, isododecane, and combination thereof.
  • the silicone oil suitable for the use herein is selected from the group consisting of cyclomethylpolysiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate, dilauroyl trimetylolpropane siloxy silicate, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane
  • the silicone elastomer blend may be prepared by means of conventional methods known in the art or commercially available.
  • Examples of commercially available products of the silicone elastomer blend include but are not limited to KSG-15/16/1610, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSP-100/101/102/105, and KSP-300, 441/411, KSG-41/42/43/44, KSG-240/310/320/330/340/710/320Z/350Z from Shin-Etsu Chemical; TREFIL E-506C, E-508, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, 9702 Powder, 9027/9040/9041/9045/9046/9041/9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, EP-9215/EP-9216 TI/EP-9289 LL/EP-9293 AL, EL-8040 ID Silicone Organic Blend from Dow Coming; Wacker-Belsil RG 100 from Wacker, and NIKKOL SILBLEND-91from Nikko Chemical.
  • the amount of the silicone elastomer blend contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 20 to 50%, preferably 25 to 45%, more preferably 30 to 40%by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the silicone elastomer blend is lower than 20%by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 and a silky sensory of the product may not be achieved. If the amount of the silicone oil is higher than 50%by weight, it may cause the product system unstable.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises an organic UV filter.
  • silicone elastomer blend useful in the sunscreen cosmetic composition, and it may be selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4, 4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, dibenzoyl methane derivative, and combination thereof.
  • the organic UV filters are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, ethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl dihydroxypropyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, glyceryl para-aminobenzoic acid, homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate, triethanolamine salicylate, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 oxybenzone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulf
  • ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
  • butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and homosalicylate
  • ethylhexyl salicylate are preferred in single use or use in combination.
  • the amount of the organic UV filter in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 4 to 15%, preferably 5 to 10%, more preferably 6 to 9%by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the organic UV filter is lower than 4%by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 may not be achieved, and the boosting effect of the in vitro SPF value compared to the estimated SPF value will be compromised. If the amount of organic UV filter is higher than 15%by weight, it may result in the product unacceptable in certain regions in terms of administrative regulations for cosmetics.
  • Examples of commercially available products of the organic UV filter for example ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl, homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate include but are not limited to Uvinul MC 80, Uvinul A Plus from BASF, Neo Heliopan 357, Neo Heliopan OS from Haarmann &Reimer and Eusolex HMS from Merck.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition further contains an inorganic UV filter.
  • the inorganic UV filter suitable to use in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of a surface treated or untreated metal oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, and combination thereof.
  • a surface treated titanium dioxide is preferably contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  • the surface treated metal oxides are coated on the surface by a surface treating agent selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, higher alcohol, hydrocarbon, triglyceride, ester, silica, aluminium oxide, silane, silicone oil, silicone resin, fluorine compounds, and combination thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of silica, aluminium oxide, siliane, e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethoxycaprylylsilane, triethoxy caprylylsilane, and combination thereof.
  • inorganic UV filters useful in the sunscreen cosmetic composition include untreated titanium dioxides, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B (Tayca) ; Titandioxd P25 (Degussa) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with aluminium oxide and silicon dioxide surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA (Tayca) ; Tioveil Fin (Uniqema) ; Tego Sun T805 (Degussa) ; UV-Titan 765 (Kemira) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with aluminium oxide and/or aluminium stearate/laurate surface treatment, e.g.
  • untreated titanium dioxides e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B (Tayca) ; Titandioxd P25 (Degussa) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with aluminium oxide and silicon dioxide surface treatment, e.g. Micro
  • Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T (Tayca) , Eusolex T-2000 (Merck) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with ferric oxide and/or ferric stearate surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F (Tayca) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with silicon dioxide, aluminium oxide and silicon surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS (Tayca) , Eusolex T-AVO (Merck) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with sodium hexametaphosphate, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W (Tayca) .
  • Eusolex T-AVO, Eusolex T-2000 (Merck) Tego Sun T805 (Degussa) and UV-Titan 765 (Kemira) are preferred.
  • the amount of the inorganic UV filter in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 1 to 15%, preferably 3 to 10%, more preferably 5 to 10%, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the inorganic UV filter is lower than 1%by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 may not be achieved, and in order achieve the sufficient SPF value, there is need for more organic UV filter which is generally considered harmful to human health for long period application. If the amount of organic UV filter is higher than 15%by weight, it may result in an excessively dry and whitening performance after being applied on the skin.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition may contain an emulsifier in order to improve the ease of preparation and the stability of the product, but it is not necessary.
  • the emulsifier may include non-silicone based emulsifier and non-silicone based emulsifier.
  • Non-limiting examples of non-silicone based emulsifier are sorbitan isostearate, polyethylene glycol-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, and magnesium stearate.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicone-based emulsifiers are alkoxylated derivatives of siloxane polymers.
  • Particularly preferred emulsifiers comprise both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide groups, for example suitable commercially available materials include PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone (Dow Corning 2-5220 Resin Modifier) , lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone (Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid) , PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone (Dow Corning ES-5227 DM Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 3225c Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 5225c Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 190 Surfactant) , bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone (Abil B8832, Degussa) , cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM90, Degussa) , and bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone (Abil EM
  • the amount of the emulsifier, if present, in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 1 to 18%, preferably 3 to 15%, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention also contains water, preferably demineralized water in an amount of 5 to 40%, preferably 10 to 35%, more preferably 20 to 30%, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also contain usual cosmetic adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, organic solvents, thickeners, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizers, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, antifoaming agents, pigments or nanopigments, or any other ingredients usually formulated into cosmetic compositions.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and additives such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, organic solvents, thickeners, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizers, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, noni
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprise additives selected from the group consisting of pigment, emollient, co-solvent, preservative, pigment dispenser, perfume, and combination thereof.
  • the necessary amounts of the adjuvants and additives can be easily be chosen by a person skilled in the art and will be illustrated in the examples, without being limited hereto.
  • the in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is larger than 50, preferably larger than 55.
  • the testing of the in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is based on an assessment of the UV transmittance of a thin film of sunscreen sample spread on a roughened substrate after exposure to a controlled dose of UV radiation from a defined UV source, and the testing procedure is as follows:
  • E ( ⁇ ) refers to the erythema action spectrum (CIE (Commission Internationale de l’Eclairage) -1987) (see Appendix I of In vitro method for the determination of the UVA protection factor and “critical wavelength” values of sunscreen products, Guideline, by COLIPA, in June 2009, hereinafter the COLIPA method) ;
  • a 0 ( ⁇ ) refers to the mean monochromatic absorbance measurements per plate of the test product layer before UV exposure
  • d ⁇ refers to the wavelength step, i.e. 1 nm.
  • the testing method of the in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is similar to the corresponding part in the COLIPA method.
  • Another aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising:
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is prepared under atmosphere condition.
  • atmosphere conditions refers to surrounding conditions under about one (1) atmosphere of pressure, at about 50%relative humidity, and at about 25 °C, unless otherwise specified. All values, amounts and measurements described herein are obtained under ambient conditions unless otherwise specified.
  • the sunscreen cosmetic composition has advantages of a boosting SPF value, a silky sensory, no oil feel, low cost, ease to prepare and use in cosmetic product, such as BB/CC cream. Surprisingly, the inventor has found that the boosting of SPF value not only results from the combination of the organic and inorganic filters, but also relies on the selection of the silicone oil and silicone elastomer blend.
  • the present invention also discloses a sunscreen cosmetic product comprising the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • sunscreen cosmetic product can be in the form of cream, ointment, gel, lotion, foam, powder, etc.
  • the present invention also discloses a method for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation, comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention to said skin.
  • the present invention also discloses the use of the sunscreen cosmetic composition or the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation.
  • the organic UV filter was dispersed/dissolved in silicone oil and/or emollient, then mixed with silicone elastomer blend before the inorganic UV filter was added and mixed.
  • the emulsifier was later introduced into the obtained mixture with gentle stirring to form a uniform slurry as oil phase.
  • water phase water, glycerine and hydrophilic substances e.g. NaCl (Sinopharm) and preservative were mixed together to obtain a homogeneous aqueous solution.
  • the pigment for makeup purpose could be added into the water phase as well, with the final appearance of water phase as a colored slurry.
  • the water phase mixture was added in portions to the oil phase mixture when the latter one was under a good and sufficient stirring.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 1 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 2 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 3 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 4 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 1 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 2 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 3 is shown as below.
  • composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 4 is shown as below.
  • the testing procedure is as follows:
  • E ( ⁇ ) erythema action spectrum (CIE (Commission Internationale de l’ Eclairage) -1987) (see Appendix I of In vitro method for the determination of the UVA protection factor and “critical wavelength” values of sunscreen products, Guideline, by COLIPA, in June 2009, hereinafter the COLIPA method, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety) ;
  • a 0 ( ⁇ ) mean monochromatic absorbance measurements per plate of the test product layer before UV exposure
  • d ⁇ wavelength step (1 nm) .
  • n. a. refers to “not applicable” since the cream system of CE1 and CE3 are completely unstable so that the SPF testing could not be conducted.
  • the sunscreen creams prepared according to the present invention all exhibited a high in vitro SPF (UVB+UVA) larger than 55.
  • the in vitro SPF values of the inventive examples were all much higher than the estimated SPF value.
  • CE4 exhibited the same tendency with respect to in vitro SPF as inventive examples, the cream system of CE4 was not stable due to the lower amount of silicone oil and/or the lower amount of silicone elastomer blend.
  • compositions of CE1 and CE3 contained a higher amount of silicone oil and/or a lower amount of silicone elastomer blend than those of the inventive examples, and thus the products of CE1 and CE3 were completely instable.
  • the compositions of E1 contained twice of concentration for both organic UV filter (s) and inorganic UV filters.
  • the estimated SPF value of the product of E1 is also about twice of the composition of CE2.
  • the in vitro SPF value of the product of E1 is larger than 70, which demonstrated that the combination of silicone oil and silicone elastomer blend contributed to the boosting of in vitro SPF value and was unexpected by a person skilled in the art.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof are provided. In particular, a sunscreen cosmetic composition having a sun protection factor of larger than 50 and the preparation method thereof are provided.

Description

[Title established by the ISA under Rule 37.2] SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND THE PREPARATION METHOD THEREOF Technical Field
The present invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof. In particular, the present invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic composition having a sun protection factor of larger than 50 and the preparation method thereof.
Background
People are looking for the cosmetics which would improve the health of skin, prevent the external pressure/aggression e.g. sun radiation, while maintaining the aesthetics of formula as pleasure of daily use. Nowadays, there are the desires from consumer of pursuing both instant and long term performance of cosmetics to ease the daily application as simplified sequence.
Sun radiation damage is more and more recognized as the major hazardous source that posed threat to human skin. Sunscreen products have been on the market for long years to tackle the concern of UV radiation. However, traditional UV filters, no matter based on water-in-oil or oil-in-water system, largely employ organic UV filters which were perceived as oily skin feel, without mentioning their tendency to degrade as potential source of hazard to skin. For some sunscreen products using inorganic UV filters as major constituent rather than organic ones, the high loading of inorganic UV filters is inevitable to get the sufficient sun protection. The formulation in the meantime is hard to stabilize with such high amount of pigments dosage, while the perception can be too dry and too white. There is demand from the market, for the cost reason, or for the perception appeal, to find better sun blocker providing enough SPF while no negative sensory.
In view of this, with the development of the technology, the product combining sun protection and instant skin brightening/translucency is receiving applause among female consumers. Because the multiple merits reduce the number of applications,  this multi-functional product format was viewed as gathering the long and short term benefit. This type of product is now being called as BB or CC cream, with anti-UV benefit. This kind of formulation is based on traditional sun blocker but with additional pigment added for coverage. By using inorganic UV filters largely instead of organic ones, the formulation will show less oily/greasy feel, but the cost is also high while the stability/aesthetics is harder to control.
Accordingly, there is still a need for a sunscreen cosmetic composition having advantages of a boosting SPF value, a silky sensory, no oil feel, low cost, ease to prepare and use in cosmetic product, such as BB/CC cream.
Summary of the Invention
One aspect of the present invention is to provide a sunscreen cosmetic composition, comprising：
a) from 5 to 35％by weight of a silicone oil,
b) from 20 to 50％by weight of a silicone elastomer blend,
c) from 4 to 15％by weight of an organic UV filter,
d) from 1 to 15％by weight of an inorganic UV filter,
e) from 0 to 20％by weight of an emulsifier, and
f) from 5 to 40％by weight of water,
in which the sun protection factor of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 50, and the weight percentage is based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
Another aspect discloses a method for preparing the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising:
(1) preparing an oil phase mixture by mixing a silicone oil, a silicone elastomer blend, an organic filter, an inorganic filter and optionally an emulsifier；
(2) optionally preparing a water phase mixture by mixing water and an optional hydrophilic additive； and
(3) slowly adding water or the water phase mixture to the oil phase with stirring.
Still another aspect discloses a sunscreen cosmetic product comprising the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
Still another aspect discloses a method for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation, comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention to said skin.
Still another aspect discloses the use of the sunscreen cosmetic composition or the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation.
Other features and aspects of the subject matter are set forth in greater detail below.
Detailed Description
In one aspect, the present invention provides a sunscreen cosmetic composition, comprising：
a) from 5 to 35％by weight of a silicone oil,
b) from 20 to 50％by weight of a silicone elastomer blend,
c) from 4 to 15％by weight of an organic UV filter,
d) from 1 to 15％by weight of an inorganic UV filter,
e) from 0 to 20％by weight of an emulsifier, and
f) from 5 to 40％by weight of water,
in which the sun protection factor of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 50, preferably larger than 55, and the weight percentage is based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
As used herein, the term “sun protection factor” or “SPF” refers to the in vitro sun protection factor in the range of UVB and UVA wavelengths, i.e. the wavelength range from 290 nm to 400 nm, and indicates the level of performance of a sunscreen cosmetic composition in protecting against sunlight-induced erythema in  the UVB and UVA wavelength range.
Silicone oil
As used herein, the silicone oil used in the sunscreen cosmetic composition refers to a fluid organopolysiloxane composition.
Any suitable silicone oil can be used in in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention, so long as it is well compatible to other components used in the composition. The silicone oil may be at least one volatile or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicone oils. The silicone oil can for example be a substantially linear polydiorganosiloxane, such as a polydimethylsiloxane, or a branched and/or cyclic polysiloxanes. The silicone oil may be a non-reactive fluid, for example a linear polydimethylsiloxane having trimethylsiloxy units, although it may be an organopolysiloxane fluid having reactive groups, such as hydroxyl (either Si-OH or alcohol groups) , amino, vinyl or Si-H groups. Preferably, the sunscreen cosmetic composition in the present invention contains no reactive silicone oil.
In one embodiment, the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of cyclomethylpolysiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate, dilauroyl trimetylolpropane siloxy silicate, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and combination thereof. Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and combination thereof. More preferably, the silicone oil is selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and combination thereof.
The silicone oil can for example have a kinematic viscosity in the range of 1 to 10000 cSt (centiStokes) , preferably 5 to 5000 cSt, more preferably 10 to 1000 cSt.
The amount of the silicone oil contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 5 to 35％, preferably 8 to 25％, more preferably 10 to 20％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the silicone oil is lower than 5％by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 of the product may not be achieved. If the amount of the silicone oil is higher than 35％by weight, the product system may not be stable.
The silicone oil may be prepared by means of conventional methods known in the art or are commercially available for example under the trade name of Dow Corning Fluid or Xiameter PMX series products, e.g. Dimethicone 350 cSt or Dow Corning 556 from Dow Corning.
Silicone elastomer blend
As used herein, the silicone elastomer blend used in the sunscreen cosmetic composition refers to the art-recognized definition of silicone elastomer blends, which in its broadest reading includes a blend of a chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer and a carrier fluid.
There is no limitation to the chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer contained in the silicone elastomer blend, and it may be selected from the group consisting of polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, polyoxyalkylene modified polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, polyglycerin modified polyorganosiloxane crosspolymer, and combination thereof. In particular, the silicone elastomer blend is selected from the group consisting of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, (PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl  diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone/bis-vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, combination thereof, and dimethicone crosspolymer is more preferable.
There is no limitation to the carrier fluid contained in the silicone elastomer blend, and it includes but is not limited to hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil.
The hydrocarbon used herein is selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, ozocerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, squalene, petrolatum, isohexadecane, isododecane, polybutene, hydrogenated poiyisobutene, po！ydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane, and combination thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon is selected from petrolatum, isohexadecane, isododecane, and combination thereof.
The silicone oil suitable for the use herein is selected from the group consisting of cyclomethylpolysiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate, dilauroyl trimetylolpropane siloxy silicate, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and combination thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon is selected from cyclopentasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and combination thereof.
The silicone elastomer blend may be prepared by means of conventional methods known in the art or commercially available. Examples of commercially available products of the silicone elastomer blend include but are not limited to KSG-15/16/1610, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSP-100/101/102/105, and KSP-300, 441/411, KSG-41/42/43/44, KSG-240/310/320/330/340/710/320Z/350Z from Shin-Etsu  Chemical； TREFIL E-506C, E-508, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, 9702 Powder, 9027/9040/9041/9045/9046/9041/9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, EP-9215/EP-9216 TI/EP-9289 LL/EP-9293 AL, EL-8040 ID Silicone Organic Blend from Dow Coming； Wacker-Belsil RG 100 from Wacker, and NIKKOL SILBLEND-91from Nikko Chemical.
The amount of the silicone elastomer blend contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 20 to 50％, preferably 25 to 45％, more preferably 30 to 40％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the silicone elastomer blend is lower than 20％by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 and a silky sensory of the product may not be achieved. If the amount of the silicone oil is higher than 50％by weight, it may cause the product system unstable.
Organic UV filter
The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises an organic UV filter.
There is no limitation to the silicone elastomer blend useful in the sunscreen cosmetic composition, and it may be selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4, 4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, dibenzoyl methane derivative, and combination thereof.
In particular, the organic UV filters are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, ethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl dihydroxypropyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, glyceryl  para-aminobenzoic acid, homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate, triethanolamine salicylate, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 oxybenzone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2, 4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, menthyl anthranilate, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate, polyorganosiloxanes with benzalmalonate functional groups, 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenyl-2-propenoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 1,1-dicarboxy (2, 2’ -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and combination thereof. Among them, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate are preferred in single use or use in combination.
The amount of the organic UV filter in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 4 to 15％, preferably 5 to 10％, more preferably 6 to 9％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the organic UV filter is lower than 4％by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 may not be achieved, and the boosting effect of the in vitro SPF value compared to the estimated SPF value will be compromised. If the amount of organic UV filter is higher than 15％by weight, it may result in the product unacceptable in certain regions in terms of administrative regulations for cosmetics.
Examples of commercially available products of the organic UV filter for example ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl, homosalicylate,  ethylhexyl salicylate include but are not limited to Uvinul MC 80, Uvinul A Plus from BASF, Neo Heliopan 357, Neo Heliopan OS from Haarmann &Reimer and Eusolex HMS from Merck.
Inorganic UV filter
In addition to the organic UV filter, the sunscreen cosmetic composition further contains an inorganic UV filter.
Generally, the inorganic UV filter suitable to use in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of a surface treated or untreated metal oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, and combination thereof. In particular, a surface treated titanium dioxide is preferably contained in the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
The surface treated metal oxides are coated on the surface by a surface treating agent selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, higher alcohol, hydrocarbon, triglyceride, ester, silica, aluminium oxide, silane, silicone oil, silicone resin, fluorine compounds, and combination thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of silica, aluminium oxide, siliane, e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethoxycaprylylsilane, triethoxy caprylylsilane, and combination thereof.
Examples of inorganic UV filters useful in the sunscreen cosmetic composition include untreated titanium dioxides, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B (Tayca) ； Titandioxd P25 (Degussa) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with aluminium oxide and silicon dioxide surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA (Tayca) ； Tioveil Fin (Uniqema) ； Tego Sun T805 (Degussa) ； UV-Titan 765 (Kemira) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with aluminium oxide and/or aluminium stearate/laurate surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T (Tayca) , Eusolex T-2000 (Merck) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with ferric oxide and/or ferric stearate surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F (Tayca) , surface treated micronised titanium dioxides with silicon dioxide, aluminium oxide and silicon surface treatment, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS (Tayca) , Eusolex T-AVO (Merck) , surface treated micronised titanium  dioxides with sodium hexametaphosphate, e.g. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W (Tayca) . Among them, Eusolex T-AVO, Eusolex T-2000 (Merck) , Tego Sun T805 (Degussa) and UV-Titan 765 (Kemira) are preferred.
The amount of the inorganic UV filter in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 1 to 15％, preferably 3 to 10％, more preferably 5 to 10％, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition. If the amount of the inorganic UV filter is lower than 1％by weight, an in vitro SPF value larger than 50 may not be achieved, and in order achieve the sufficient SPF value, there is need for more organic UV filter which is generally considered harmful to human health for long period application. If the amount of organic UV filter is higher than 15％by weight, it may result in an excessively dry and whitening performance after being applied on the skin.
Emulsifier
The sunscreen cosmetic composition may contain an emulsifier in order to improve the ease of preparation and the stability of the product, but it is not necessary.
If present, the emulsifier may include non-silicone based emulsifier and non-silicone based emulsifier.
Non-limiting examples of non-silicone based emulsifier are sorbitan isostearate, polyethylene glycol-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, and magnesium stearate.
Non-limiting examples of silicone-based emulsifiers are alkoxylated derivatives of siloxane polymers. Particularly preferred emulsifiers comprise both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide groups, for example suitable commercially available materials include PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone (Dow Corning 2-5220 Resin Modifier) , lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone (Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid) , PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone (Dow Corning ES-5227 DM Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 3225c  Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 5225c Formulation Aid, Dow Corning 190 Surfactant) , bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone (Abil B8832, Degussa) , cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM90, Degussa) , and bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone (Abil EM97, Degussa) .
The amount of the emulsifier, if present, in the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitably in the range from 1 to 18％, preferably 3 to 15％, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
Water
The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention also contains water, preferably demineralized water in an amount of 5 to 40％, preferably 10 to 35％, more preferably 20 to 30％, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
Additives
The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also contain usual cosmetic adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, organic solvents, thickeners, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizers, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, antifoaming agents, pigments or nanopigments, or any other ingredients usually formulated into cosmetic compositions. Such cosmetic ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are e.g. described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) without being limited thereto. Preferably, the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprise additives selected from the group consisting of pigment, emollient, co-solvent, preservative, pigment dispenser, perfume, and combination thereof.
Based on the desired product, the necessary amounts of the adjuvants and additives can be easily be chosen by a person skilled in the art and will be illustrated in the examples, without being limited hereto.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take account of selecting the above mentioned optional additives and/or their amounts such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the combination according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
The in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is larger than 50, preferably larger than 55.
The testing of the in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is based on an assessment of the UV transmittance of a thin film of sunscreen sample spread on a roughened substrate after exposure to a controlled dose of UV radiation from a defined UV source, and the testing procedure is as follows:
1. applying the sunscreen cosmetic composition onto a roughened PMMA plate at an application rate of about 1.3 mg/cm2；
2. placing the plate containing the sunscreen cosmetic composition in the light-path of the UV source of measurement device (Varian Cary 300 Bio pectrophotometers, from Varian, Inc. ) ；
3.determining a mean value for transmission of UV radiation from the UV source through the plate from 290nm to 400nm at each 1 nm step； and
4.calculating the in vitro SPF value in UVB+ UVA wavelength range by the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000001
wherein,
E (λ) refers to the erythema action spectrum (CIE (Commission Internationale de l’Eclairage) -1987) (see Appendix I of In vitro method for the determination of the UVA protection factor and “critical wavelength” values of sunscreen products, Guideline, by COLIPA, in June 2009, hereinafter the COLIPA method) ；
I (λ) refers to the spectral irradiance of the UV source (see Appendix I of the COLIPA method) ；
A0 (λ) refers to the mean monochromatic absorbance measurements per plate of the test product layer before UV exposure； and
dλ refers to the wavelength step, i.e. 1 nm.
The testing method of the in vitro SPF value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is similar to the corresponding part in the COLIPA method.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising:
(1) preparing an oil phase mixture by mixing a silicone oil, a silicone elastomer blend, an organic filter, an inorganic filter and optionally an emulsifier；
(2) optionally preparing a water phase mixture by mixing water and an optional hydrophilic additive； and
(3) slowly adding water or the water phase mixture to the oil phase with stirring.
Preferably, the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention is prepared under atmosphere condition. The term "ambient conditions" as used herein refers to surrounding conditions under about one (1) atmosphere of pressure, at about 50％relative humidity, and at about 25 ℃, unless otherwise specified. All values, amounts and measurements described herein are obtained under ambient conditions unless otherwise specified.
The sunscreen cosmetic composition has advantages of a boosting SPF value, a silky sensory, no oil feel, low cost, ease to prepare and use in cosmetic product,  such as BB/CC cream. Surprisingly, the inventor has found that the boosting of SPF value not only results from the combination of the organic and inorganic filters, but also relies on the selection of the silicone oil and silicone elastomer blend.
The present invention also discloses a sunscreen cosmetic product comprising the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention. Such sunscreen cosmetic product can be in the form of cream, ointment, gel, lotion, foam, powder, etc.
The present invention also discloses a method for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation, comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention to said skin.
The present invention also discloses the use of the sunscreen cosmetic composition or the sunscreen cosmetic product according to the present invention for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation.
The present invention may be better understood with reference to the following examples.
Examples
The following examples were prepared by the method below under atmosphere condition:
The organic UV filter was dispersed/dissolved in silicone oil and/or emollient, then mixed with silicone elastomer blend before the inorganic UV filter was added and mixed. The emulsifier was later introduced into the obtained mixture with gentle stirring to form a uniform slurry as oil phase. As for water phase, water, glycerine and hydrophilic substances e.g. NaCl (Sinopharm) and preservative were mixed together to obtain a homogeneous aqueous solution. The pigment for makeup purpose could be added into the water phase as well, with the final appearance of water phase as a colored slurry. Next, the water phase mixture was added in  portions to the oil phase mixture when the latter one was under a good and sufficient stirring.
Example 1 (E1) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 1 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000003
Example 2 (E2) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 2 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000005
Example 3 (E3) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 3 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000007
Example 4 (E4) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Example 4 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000009
Comparative Example 1 (CE1) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 1 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000011
Comparative Example 2 (CE2) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 2 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000012
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000013
Comparative Example 3 (CE3) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 3 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000014
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000015
Comparative Example 4 (CE4) :
The composition of the sunscreen cream of Comparative Example 4 is shown as below.
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000016
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000017
Evaluation:
1.In vitro SPF values for UVB+UVA wavelength range
Testing method
The testing procedure is as follows:
1. applying the sunscreen cosmetic composition onto a roughened PMMA plate at an application rate of 1.3 mg/cm2；
2. placing the plate containing the sunscreen cosmetic composition in the light-path of the UV source of measurement device (Varian Cary 300 Bio spectrophotometers, from Varian, Inc. ) ；
3. determining a mean value for transmission of UV radiation from the UV source through the plate from 290nm to 400nm at each 1 nm step； and
4. calculating the in vitro SPF value in UVB+ UVA wavelength range by the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000018
wherein,
E (λ) ＝ erythema action spectrum (CIE (Commission Internationale de l’ Eclairage) -1987) (see Appendix I of In vitro method for the determination of the UVA protection factor and “critical wavelength” values of sunscreen products, Guideline, by COLIPA, in June 2009, hereinafter the COLIPA method, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety) ；
I (λ) ＝ spectral irradiance of the UV source (see Appendix I of the COLIPA method) ；
A0 (λ) ＝ mean monochromatic absorbance measurements per plate of the test product layer before UV exposure； and
dλ ＝ wavelength step (1 nm) .
In the evaluation, the in vitro SPF values in UVB and UVA wavelength range and the estimated SPF values for all examples were tested and compared. The estimated SPF values in UVB and UVA wavelength range were obtained from BASF sunscreen simulator available at https: //www. sunscreensimulator. basf. com/Sunscreen_Simulator/, which is a well-known and commonly used tool to a person skilled in the art.
Results
The results of the test are shown in Table 1.
Table 1. Result of the in vitro SPF value in UVB and UVA wavelength range
Figure PCTCN2014091990-appb-000019
*n. a. refers to “not applicable” since the cream system of CE1 and CE3 are completely unstable so that the SPF testing could not be conducted.
2.Stability
Testing method
All the products from each Examples and Comparative Examples as prepared were placed in a glass bottle at 40 ℃. The appearance of the products was visually measured daily until a separation of the oil phase and water phase of the product was detected during 3 months.
Results
The results of the test are shown in Table 2.
Table 2. Result of the stability test
  E1 E2 E3 E4 CE1 CE2 CE3 CE4
Stability good* good good good poor* good poor poor
* “good” means that the oil/water phase separation of the product was not detected after 3 months； and
* “poor” means that the oil/water phase separation of the product was detected within 1 day.
As shown in the table, the sunscreen creams prepared according to the present invention all exhibited a high in vitro SPF (UVB+UVA) larger than 55. Surprisingly, the in vitro SPF values of the inventive examples were all much higher than the  estimated SPF value. Although CE4 exhibited the same tendency with respect to in vitro SPF as inventive examples, the cream system of CE4 was not stable due to the lower amount of silicone oil and/or the lower amount of silicone elastomer blend.
The compositions of CE1 and CE3 contained a higher amount of silicone oil and/or a lower amount of silicone elastomer blend than those of the inventive examples, and thus the products of CE1 and CE3 were completely instable.
Compared to the composition of CE2, the compositions of E1 contained twice of concentration for both organic UV filter (s) and inorganic UV filters. According to the results from the BASF sunscreen simulator, the estimated SPF value of the product of E1 is also about twice of the composition of CE2. Surprisingly, the in vitro SPF value of the product of E1 is larger than 70, which demonstrated that the combination of silicone oil and silicone elastomer blend contributed to the boosting of in vitro SPF value and was unexpected by a person skilled in the art.
In addition, all of the products according to E1 to E4 exhibited an excellent silky sensory after being applied onto the human skin.
These and other modifications and variations of the present invention may be practiced by those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. In addition, it should be understood that aspects of the various embodiments may be interchanged both in whole or in component. Furthermore, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the foregoing description is by way of example only, and is not intended to limit the invention so further described in such appended claims.

Claims (27)

  1. A sunscreen cosmetic composition, comprising：
    a) from 5 to 35％by weight of a silicone oil,
    b) from 20 to 50％by weight of a silicone elastomer blend,
    c) from 4 to 15％by weight of an organic UV filter,
    d) from 1 to 15％by weight of an inorganic UV filter,
    e) from 0 to 20％by weight of an emulsifier, and
    f) from 5 to 40％by weight of water,
    in which the sun protection factor of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 50, and the weight percentage is based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  2. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of cyclomethylpolysiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate, dilauroyl trimetylolpropane siloxy silicate, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane, phenyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and combination thereof.
  3. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, lauryl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl dimethylpolysiloxane, phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, triphenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, and combination thereof.
  4. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, in which the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of dimethylpolysiloxane,  phenyl trimethylpolysiloxane, and combination thereof.
  5. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, in which the silicone elastomer blend is a blend of a chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer and a carrier fluid.
  6. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 5, in which the chemically crosslinked siloxane polymer is selected from the group consisting of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, (PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone/bis-vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, and combination thereof.
  7. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, in which the carrier fluid is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, and combination thereof.
  8. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, in which the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4, 4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, dibenzoyl methane derivatives, and combination thereof.
  9. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, in which the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, ethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl dihydroxypropyl para-aminobenzoic acid, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, glyceryl para-aminobenzoic acid, homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate, triethanolamine salicylate, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 oxybenzone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2, 4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4’ -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, menthyl anthranilate, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate, polyorganosiloxanes with benzalmalonate functional groups, 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenyl-2-propenoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 1, 1-dicarboxy (2, 2’ -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and combination thereof.
  10. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, in which the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, homosalicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and combination thereof.
  11. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, in which the inorganic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of a surface treated metal oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, and combination thereof.
  12. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, in which the inorganic UV filter is a surface treated titanium dioxide.
  13. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 11, in which the surface treated metal oxides are coated on the surface by a surface treating agent selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, higher alcohol, hydrocarbon, triglyceride, ester, silica, silane, silicone oil, silicone resin, fluorine compounds, and combination thereof.
  14. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 13, in which surface treating agent is selected from the group consisting of aluminium oxide, silica, silane, and combination thereof.
  15. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 14, in which the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14, sorbitan isostearate, polyethylene glycol-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, magnesium stearate, and combination thereof.
  16. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 15, in which the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, sorbitan isostearate, and combination thereof.
  17. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 16, in which the in vitro sun protection factor value of the sunscreen cosmetic composition is larger than 55.
  18. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 17, further comprising additives selected from the group consisting of pigment, emollient, co-solvent, preservative, pigment dispenser, perfume, and combination thereof.
  19. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 18, in which the silicone oil is in an amount of from 8 to 25％by weight, preferably from 10 to 20％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  20. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 29, in which the silicone elastomer blend is in an amount of from 25 to 45％by weight, preferably from 30 to 40％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  21. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 20, in which the organic UV filter is in an amount of from 5 to 10％by weight, preferably from 6 to 9％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  22. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 21, in which the inorganic UV filter is in an amount of from 5 to 10％by weight, preferably from 6 to 9％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  23. The sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 22, in which the emulsifier is in an amount of from 5 to 15％by weight, preferably from 8 to 10％by weight, based on the total weight of all components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
  24. A method for preparing the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 23, comprising:
    (1) preparing an oil phase mixture by mixing a silicone oil, a silicone elastomer  blend, an organic filter, an inorganic filter and optionally an emulsifier；
    (2) optionally preparing a water phase mixture by mixing water and an optional hydrophilic additive； and
    (3) slowing adding water or the water phase mixture to the oil phase with stirring.
  25. A sunscreen cosmetic product, comprising or consisting of the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 24.
  26. A method for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation, comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic product according to claim 25 to said skin.
  27. Use of the sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 24 or the sunscreen cosmetic product according to claim 25 for protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation.
PCT/CN2014/091990 2014-11-24 2014-11-24 Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof WO2016082061A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2014/091990 WO2016082061A1 (en) 2014-11-24 2014-11-24 Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2014/091990 WO2016082061A1 (en) 2014-11-24 2014-11-24 Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2016082061A1 true WO2016082061A1 (en) 2016-06-02

Family

ID=56073273

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2014/091990 WO2016082061A1 (en) 2014-11-24 2014-11-24 Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2016082061A1 (en)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108956606A (en) * 2018-07-09 2018-12-07 广东蓝堡生物科技有限公司 A kind of detection method of sunlight screening skin-protecting product sun-proof function
CN110913830A (en) * 2017-03-31 2020-03-24 欧莱雅 Compositions having short and long term benefits for reducing wrinkles and fine lines
WO2021035386A1 (en) * 2019-08-23 2021-03-04 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Sunscreen composition without cyclomethicones
CN113476319A (en) * 2021-03-25 2021-10-08 广州市珍榜日用化工有限公司 Sunscreen repair composition and preparation method thereof
CN113730269A (en) * 2021-09-29 2021-12-03 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 Mild gel with sun-screening effect and preparation method thereof
US11458090B2 (en) * 2019-05-02 2022-10-04 L'oreal SPF-enhanced water-releasing sunscreen composition

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1311662A (en) * 1998-06-04 2001-09-05 荷兰联合利华有限公司 Sunscreen cosmetic composition
CA2251633C (en) * 1997-02-17 2004-03-30 L'oreal Sunscreen composition comprising a solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane
CN104144676A (en) * 2012-03-01 2014-11-12 宝洁公司 Sunscreen composition comprising uv composite

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA2251633C (en) * 1997-02-17 2004-03-30 L'oreal Sunscreen composition comprising a solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane
CN1311662A (en) * 1998-06-04 2001-09-05 荷兰联合利华有限公司 Sunscreen cosmetic composition
CN104144676A (en) * 2012-03-01 2014-11-12 宝洁公司 Sunscreen composition comprising uv composite

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110913830A (en) * 2017-03-31 2020-03-24 欧莱雅 Compositions having short and long term benefits for reducing wrinkles and fine lines
CN110913830B (en) * 2017-03-31 2023-02-03 欧莱雅 Compositions having short and long term benefits for reducing wrinkles and fine lines
CN108956606A (en) * 2018-07-09 2018-12-07 广东蓝堡生物科技有限公司 A kind of detection method of sunlight screening skin-protecting product sun-proof function
US11458090B2 (en) * 2019-05-02 2022-10-04 L'oreal SPF-enhanced water-releasing sunscreen composition
WO2021035386A1 (en) * 2019-08-23 2021-03-04 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Sunscreen composition without cyclomethicones
CN113476319A (en) * 2021-03-25 2021-10-08 广州市珍榜日用化工有限公司 Sunscreen repair composition and preparation method thereof
CN113730269A (en) * 2021-09-29 2021-12-03 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 Mild gel with sun-screening effect and preparation method thereof
CN113730269B (en) * 2021-09-29 2022-08-30 广州环亚化妆品科技股份有限公司 Mild gel with sun-screening effect and preparation method thereof

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
JP5592383B2 (en) Resilient personal care composition comprising a polyalkyl ether-containing siloxane elastomer
WO2016082061A1 (en) Sunscreen cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof
US9084724B2 (en) Water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics
US20160367470A1 (en) Water-in-oil sunscreen composition having organic sunscreen actives
KR102409170B1 (en) Composition comprising an oily continuous phase, a liquid β,β-diphenylacrylate sunscreen, a liquid salicylate sunscreen and a non-cyclic volatile silicone oil
JP7482776B2 (en) Emulsified cosmetics
JP6690947B2 (en) Water-in-oil skin cosmetics
US20180311141A1 (en) Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase
US20130121939A1 (en) Water-in-Oil Emulsified Cosmetic
WO2011061864A1 (en) A cosmetic or dermatological composition with low stickiness, containing a lipophilic active ingredient
EP3334401B1 (en) Sunscreen composition containing high levels of liposoluble uv filters
JP2019038781A (en) Water-in-oil cosmetics
JP6509743B2 (en) Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine, an organic UVB screening agent and an additional organic UVA screening agent
CN105188653B (en) Cosmetics or dermatological compositions comprising merocyanine and lipophilicity benzotriazole UV-smoke agent for shielding and/or double-resorcinol group triaizine compounds
US20160367448A1 (en) Sunscreen composition containing high levels of liposoluble uv filters
CN112566616A (en) Emulsified cosmetic
JP6739153B2 (en) Composition comprising hydrophobically modified inulin and polyether modified silicone
WO2020032246A1 (en) Sunscreen effect enhancer
US20200306162A1 (en) Cosmetic mineral sunscreen compositions for skin
ES2954123T3 (en) Photoprotective composition based on carboxylic acid ester; use of said compound to increase the sun protection factor
JP7368360B2 (en) cosmetics
US20160367453A1 (en) Sunscreen composition containing high levels of liposoluble uv filters
US20230025603A1 (en) Sun care composition
EP3079779B1 (en) Clear sunscreen composition for application onto wet or dry skin
US20200222290A1 (en) Water-in-oil-type solid cosmetic

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 14906789

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 14906789

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1