WO2016030514A1 - Composition moussante comportant au moins un tensioactif du type n-acylsarcosinate - Google Patents
Composition moussante comportant au moins un tensioactif du type n-acylsarcosinate Download PDFInfo
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- WO2016030514A1 WO2016030514A1 PCT/EP2015/069765 EP2015069765W WO2016030514A1 WO 2016030514 A1 WO2016030514 A1 WO 2016030514A1 EP 2015069765 W EP2015069765 W EP 2015069765W WO 2016030514 A1 WO2016030514 A1 WO 2016030514A1
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- 230000001687 destabilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- GQOKIYDTHHZSCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M dimethyl-bis(prop-2-enyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C=CC[N+](C)(C)CC=C GQOKIYDTHHZSCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940047642 disodium cocoamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SMVRDGHCVNAOIN-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;1-dodecoxydodecane;sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCC SMVRDGHCVNAOIN-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002194 fatty esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005243 fluidization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007710 freezing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008014 freezing Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002303 glucose derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 125000004395 glucoside group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940074047 glyceryl cocoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 150000002332 glycine derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000036571 hydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006703 hydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 239000001341 hydroxy propyl starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013828 hydroxypropyl starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001530 keratinolytic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008101 lactose Substances 0.000 description 1
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940048848 lauryl glucoside Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000004668 long chain fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940044591 methyl glucose dioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000896 monocarboxylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 description 1
- 239000000346 nonvolatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- HMZGPNHSPWNGEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)=C HMZGPNHSPWNGEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N octyl beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)(=O)O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000003605 opacifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000962 organic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940086539 peg-7 glyceryl cocoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000546 pharmaceutical excipient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005191 phase separation Methods 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002857 polybutadiene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010561 standard procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000007785 strong electrolyte Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002076 thermal analysis method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001256 tonic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011200 topical administration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
Definitions
- Foaming composition comprising at least one surfactant of the
- the present invention relates to a composition containing:
- an oily phase comprising at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons
- compositions as defined according to the present invention, as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
- Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing grime from human keratin materials, characterized in that the composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin materials in the presence of water, it is massaged to form a foam, and the foam formed and the grime are removed by rinsing with water.
- Certain consumers are in search of washing products that also afford hydration benefits. In general, they are creams containing oils. These products exhibit destabilization phenomena: phase separation or fluidization at low temperature, and their foaming power remains low.
- compositions for cleansing keratin materials containing at least one oil, which remain stable after storage for at least one week under normal conditions of use. The same compositions must also have good foaming properties (good start of lathering).
- International patent application WO01/19949 discloses cleansing compositions comprising a lamellar phase with a low salt (NaCI) concentration (less than 1 .1 %). They contain:
- a lamellar phase structuring agent from the group of fatty acids, fatty esters or trihydroxystearine, or mixtures thereof;
- compositions containing less than 1 .1 % salt (NaCI) is a major formulation constraint insofar as most commercial surfactants contain a high salt (NaCI) concentration.
- compositions comprising soluble lamellar phases. These compositions contain anionic surfactants (e.g. isethionate and/or sulfosuccinate). Structuring agents such as unsaturated and/or branched Cs-C2 4 liquid fatty acids from the group of oleic/isostearic acids and mixtures thereof. It is noted in these formulations that the presence of long-chain fatty acids has a negative impact on the foam quality (start of lathering).
- anionic surfactants e.g. isethionate and/or sulfosuccinate
- Structuring agents such as unsaturated and/or branched Cs-C2 4 liquid fatty acids from the group of oleic/isostearic acids and mixtures thereof. It is noted in these formulations that the presence of long-chain fatty acids has a negative impact on the foam quality (start of lathering).
- the aim of the invention is to provide a composition, especially a cosmetic cleansing composition, which is capable of forming a lamellar phase, comprising at least one oil and at least one structuring agent, which produces good foaming performance (especially start of lathering) and which is stable on storage especially at least after one week at room temperature (20-25°C), without the drawbacks mentioned previously.
- the Applicant has found that it is possible to obtain stable compositions that are capable of forming a lamellar phase, which have good foaming performance and which are stable on storage especially at least after one week at room temperature (20-25°C), by using specific combinations of surfactants, specific oils and particular structuring agents.
- the present invention relates to a composition containing:
- an oily phase comprising at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons
- the composition comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
- Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined according to the present invention, as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
- Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing grime from human keratin materials, characterized in that the composition of the invention is applied to said keratin materials in the presence of water, it is massaged to form a foam, and the foam formed and the grime are removed by rinsing with water.
- human keratin materials means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, scalp, lips or mucous membranes.
- physiologically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this composition.
- a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a medium that has no unpleasant odor and/or appearance, and that is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
- hydrocarbon-based chain means an organic group predominantly consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
- compositions according to the invention form lamellar phases and are stable on storage especially for at least one week at room temperature and have good foaming properties.
- lamellar phase means a phase formed by the combination of surfactants and of a structuring agent which become organized in an ordered manner with an alternation of surfactant bilayer separated by an aqueous phase. These successions of surfactant bilayers and an aqueous phase may especially curve to form spherical onions.
- composition according to the invention contains a surfactant system that affords the composition its foaming nature.
- the total concentration of N-acyl sarcosinate surfactant, amphoteric surfactant(s) and fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol ranges from 12% to 50% by weight and preferably from 16% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifiers in the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule.
- HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
- the term "HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
- the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions, whereas foaming surfactants generally have an HLB of greater than 20.
- the anionic surfactant of N-acyl sarcosinate type of the invention preferably has the following chemical formula:
- radicals R mention may be made of stearyl, myristyl, oleyl, lauryl and cocoyl.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
- betaines of alkyl betaines, such as, for example, cocoyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB- 30® by Cognis, lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine® by Shin Nihon Portugal, or oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine® by Shin Nihon Portugal.
- alkyl betaines such as, for example, cocoyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB- 30® by Cognis
- lauryl betaine such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by Clariant
- oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine such as the product sold under the name Lauryl
- N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof examples that may be mentioned include the cocamidopropyl betaine sold under the name Dehyton PK 45® from BASF, Lebon 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo or sold under the name Empigen BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, or lauramidopropyl betaine, sold under the name Rewoteric AMB12P® by the company Witco.
- Sultaines that may be mentioned include hydroxysultaines, such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, for instance the product sold under the name Rewoteric AM CAS® by the company Goldschmidt-Degussa or the product sold under the name Crosultaine C-50® by the company Croda.
- hydroxysultaines such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, for instance the product sold under the name Rewoteric AM CAS® by the company Goldschmidt-Degussa or the product sold under the name Crosultaine C-50® by the company Croda.
- Alkyl polyaminocarboxylates that may be mentioned include sodium cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate, sold under the names Ampholak 7 CX/C® and Ampholak 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate, sold under the name Ampholak 7 TX C by the company Akzo Nobel, or sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine, sold under the name Ampholak XO7/C® by the company Akzo Nobel.
- APACs Alkyl polyaminocarboxylates
- alkylamphoacetates examples include N-disodium N- cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate), such as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentrate NP® by the company Rhodia, N-sodium N-cocoyl-N- hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) or sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sold under the name Miranol CSE by the company Rhodia.
- the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of the invention are preferably chosen from:
- lauryl betaine for example GENAGEN KB® from Clariant
- cocoyl betaine for example Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or Tego Betaine AB 1214® from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH
- N-alkylamido betaines and derivatives in particular cocamidopropylbetaine, for example Dehyton PK 45® from BASF, Lebon 2000 HG® from Sanyo or Empigen BB® from Albright & Wilson), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example Rewoteric AMB12P® from Witco), N-disodium N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate (for example Miranol C2M Concentrate NP® from Rhodia Chimie);
- cocamidopropylbetaine for example Dehyton PK 45® from BASF, Lebon 2000 HG® from Sanyo or Empigen BB® from Albright & Wilson
- lauramidopropyl betaine for example Rewoteric AMB12P® from Witco
- N-disodium N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate for example Miran
- cocoylamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine for example Crosultaine C-50® from Croda
- Crosultaine C-50® from Croda
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of the invention are chosen from alkyl betaines and alkylamidopropyl betaines.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use will be made more particularly of cocamidopropyl betaine or cocoyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
- concentration of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the invention also comprises at least 6.50% by weight of at least one structuring agent chosen from saturated fatty acids with a melting point of less than 45.0°C, saturated fatty alcohols with a melting point of less than 45.0°C and mixtures thereof.
- the saturated acids are preferably Cs-C2 4 and preferably have a melting point of greater than 20.0°C and less than 45.0°C.
- the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC).
- the melting point of the structuring agent may be measured using a differential scanning colorimeter (DSC) from TA instruments- Q-seriesTM Q100, according to the following protocol: A sample of 5 mg of the structuring agent is placed in a crucible. The temperature is equilibrated to 20°C for 10 minutes. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 20°C/minute, and is then cooled from 80°C to -10°C at a cooling rate of 20°C/minute. During the temperature rise, the sample absorbs heat and its physical appearance changes from solid to liquid. This absorption of heat is indicated by a dip indicating the endothermic nature of the transformation. The melting point is the lowest temperature of the dip.
- the fatty acid(s) and/or the fatty alcohol(s) in accordance with the invention are present in concentrations ranging from 6.50% to 12% by weight, preferentially from 6.50% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 6.50% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- lauric acid advantageously provides a very good compromise between the stability of the composition according to the invention and the foaming properties thereof.
- compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase, known as an oily phase.
- This phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds that make said phase water-immiscible.
- Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20- 25°C).
- the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin.
- oil means a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
- non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
- the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30 000 mPa.s.
- the linear or branched hydrocarbons are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane and more particularly liquid petroleum jelly and/or a polyisobutene.
- esters especially of fatty acids such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or C12 to Ci5 alkyl benzoate.
- R 1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
- R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or C12 to Ci5 alkyl benzoate.
- the concentration of the oily phase preferably ranges from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferentially from 5% to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention comprises:
- composition according to the invention may also contain at least one thickener.
- thickeners that may be used, mention may be made of associative polymers.
- sociative polymers means water-soluble polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.
- Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
- hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer bearing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
- hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
- the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
- the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.
- associative anionic polymers it is possible, according to a preferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising among their monomers an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
- these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a Ci-C 4 alcohol.
- acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate crosslinked copolymers such as Pemulen TR1 polymer® and Pemulen TR2® polymer sold by Lubrizol, Polyacrylate-33 sold under the trade name Rheomer 33® by Solvay, crosslinked copolymers of vinyl neodecanoate and of (meth)acrylic acid and/or of an ester thereof, for instance the copolymer of INCI name: Acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer sold under the trade name Aculyn 38® by the company Dow Chemical.
- quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® ((_1 ⁇ 2 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
- thickeners in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of non-associative crosslinked carboxyvinyl polymers, especially crosslinked polyacrylic acids such as Carbomer products such as Carbopols®; the crosslinked copolymer of ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid having the INCI name: Acrylates copolymer and sold under the name Carbopol SF1® by the company Lubrizol.
- crosslinked polyacrylic acids such as Carbomer products such as Carbopols®
- the crosslinked copolymer of ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid having the INCI name: Acrylates copolymer and sold under the name Carbopol SF1® by the company Lubrizol.
- thickeners in accordance with the invention mention may be made of starches, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, in particular the hydroxy propyl ethers of distarch phosphate having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, for instance the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C® or Farmal MS 689® from the company Avebe Stadex; or the products sold under the trade names Structure BTC®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or Structure Zea® from National Starch (corn distarch phosphate).
- Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate for instance the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C® or Farmal MS 689® from the company Avebe Stadex; or the products sold under the trade names Structure BTC®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or Structure Zea® from National Starch (corn distarch phosphate).
- associative polymers will be chosen, and more particularly crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate such as the copolymer of INCI name: Acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer sold under the trade name Aculyn 38® by the company Dow Chemical.
- the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium or aqueous phase.
- aqueous phase means a phase comprising water and generally any molecule in dissolved form in the water in the composition.
- concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 45% to 84% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferentially from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention may contain, besides water, one or more solvents chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and polyols, and mixtures thereof.
- a monoalcohol that may especially be mentioned is ethanol.
- polyols that may especially be mentioned include glycerol; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol or propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose and sucrose; and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of monoalcohols and of polyols in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight and better still from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the invention may especially contain opacifiers, cationic polymers, chelating agents, glycols, salts, active compounds, typically such as keratolytic active compounds, etc.
- composition according to the invention may contain various water-soluble or liposoluble additives, chosen from those conventionally used in skincare or makeup-removing products, insofar as these additives and the amounts thereof do not harm the desired qualities for the composition according to the invention.
- the cleansing composition in accordance with the present invention may thus comprise the following additives: cosurfactants; preserving agents; sequestrants (EDTA and salts thereof); antioxidants; fragrances; dyestuffs; encapsulated or non-encapsulated pigments or soluble dyes; conditioning agents, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric, thickening polymers.
- cosurfactants preserving agents
- sequestrants EDTA and salts thereof
- the composition may also comprise a polymeric quaternary ammonium.
- Polymeric quaternary ammoniums are cationic or amphoteric polymers containing at least one quaternized nitrogen atom.
- Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include the Polyquaternium products (CTFA name), which afford softness and creaminess to the foaming cream. These polymers may preferably be chosen from the following polymers:
- Polyquaternium 5 such as the product Merquat 5® sold by the company Nalco
- Polyquaternium 6, such as the product Salcare SC 30® sold by the company Ciba, and the product Merquat 100® sold by the company Nalco;
- Polyquaternium 7 such as the products Merquat S®, Merquat 2200® and Merquat 550® sold by the company Nalco, and the product Salcare SC 10® sold by the company Ciba;
- Polyquaternium 10 such as the product Polymer JR400® sold by the company Amerchol;
- Polyquaternium 1 1 such as the products Gafquat 755®, Gafquat 755N® and Gafquat 734 sold by the company ISP;
- Polyquaternium 16 such as the products Luviquat FC905®, Luviquat FC370®, Luviquat HM552® and Luviquat FC550 sold by the company BASF;
- Polyquaternium 22 such as the product Merquat 280® sold by the company Nalco;
- Polyquaternium 47 such as the product Merquat 2001® sold by the company Nalco.
- the polymeric quaternary ammoniums may be in an (active material) amount ranging, for example, from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- active material for example, from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the oxyalkylenated sugar esters are especially polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen, for example, from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol.
- the compositions of the invention are typically rinse-off compositions (rinsing with water or with a tonic) and they may be used in the field of makeup removal or cleansing of human keratin materials such as facial or bodily skin, the hair, including the scalp, and mucous membranes such as the lips. They may also constitute care products, for instance rinse-off masks (in the usual manner in which these products are used).
- compositions according to the invention are oil-in-water emulsions, i.e. in which the discontinuous oily phase is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
- the introduction step is performed with mechanical stirring using a paddle or impeller and rotor-stator type homogenizer.
- This step is typically performed at a speed of from 300 to 1000 rpm (for example 400 rpm) especially for 10-15 minutes.
- the composition obtained is cooled with slow stirring using a movement of the doctor blades at a speed of less than 1000 rpm.
- the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined previously as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
- compositions 5 and 6 of the invention form lamellar phases and are stable after 1 month of storage at any temperature.
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Abstract
Selon un premier aspect, la présente invention concerne une composition qui contient : a) une phase aqueuse, b) une phase huileuse comportant au moins une huile à base d'hydrocarbure non-volatile choisie parmi des hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés ; c) au moins un tensioactif du type N-acylsarcosinate, d) au moins un tensioactif amphotère ou zwitterionique et e) au moins 6,50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'au moins un agent structurant choisi parmi des acides gras saturés ayant un point de fusion inférieur à 45,0 °C, des alcools gras saturés ayant un point de fusion inférieur à 45,0 °C et des mélanges de ceux-ci. Un autre objet de l'invention est l'utilisation cosmétique de la composition, telle que définie selon la présente invention, comme agent nettoyant et/ou démaquillant de matières de kératine. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique, pour nettoyer la crasse de matières de kératine humaines, qui est caractérisé par le fait que la composition de l'invention est appliquée par massage sur lesdites matières de kératine en présence d'eau, de façon à former une mousse, la mousse formée et la crasse étant éliminées par rinçage à l'eau.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1458069 | 2014-08-28 | ||
FR1458069A FR3025101B1 (fr) | 2014-08-28 | 2014-08-28 | Composition moussante comprenant au moins un tensio-actif du type n-acylsarcosinate |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2016030514A1 true WO2016030514A1 (fr) | 2016-03-03 |
Family
ID=52358854
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2015/069765 WO2016030514A1 (fr) | 2014-08-28 | 2015-08-28 | Composition moussante comportant au moins un tensioactif du type n-acylsarcosinate |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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FR (1) | FR3025101B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2016030514A1 (fr) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3053246A1 (fr) * | 2016-07-01 | 2018-01-05 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Composition moussante concentree rheo-fluidifiante et ses utilisations, notamment pour l'hygiene corporelle |
DE102018201343A1 (de) * | 2018-01-30 | 2019-08-01 | Beiersdorf Ag | Reinigungszubereitung enthaltend Polyquaternium-6 Polymere |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US6329331B1 (en) * | 1998-04-03 | 2001-12-11 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Detergent compositions |
US20080081776A1 (en) * | 2006-09-28 | 2008-04-03 | Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever | Mild foaming personal cleansing composition with high levels of hydrocarbon wax and oil emollients |
US20080153729A1 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-06-26 | Conopco, Inc. D/B/A Unilever | Stable liquid cleansing compositions which may be prepared using broad selection of fatty acyl isethionate surfactants |
CN102764205A (zh) * | 2012-08-10 | 2012-11-07 | 南通永源服饰有限公司 | 一种瘦脸洗面奶 |
-
2014
- 2014-08-28 FR FR1458069A patent/FR3025101B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2015
- 2015-08-28 WO PCT/EP2015/069765 patent/WO2016030514A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6329331B1 (en) * | 1998-04-03 | 2001-12-11 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Detergent compositions |
US20080081776A1 (en) * | 2006-09-28 | 2008-04-03 | Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever | Mild foaming personal cleansing composition with high levels of hydrocarbon wax and oil emollients |
US20080153729A1 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-06-26 | Conopco, Inc. D/B/A Unilever | Stable liquid cleansing compositions which may be prepared using broad selection of fatty acyl isethionate surfactants |
CN102764205A (zh) * | 2012-08-10 | 2012-11-07 | 南通永源服饰有限公司 | 一种瘦脸洗面奶 |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3053246A1 (fr) * | 2016-07-01 | 2018-01-05 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Composition moussante concentree rheo-fluidifiante et ses utilisations, notamment pour l'hygiene corporelle |
FR3083447A1 (fr) * | 2016-07-01 | 2020-01-10 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Composition moussante concentree rheo-fluidifiante et ses utilisations, notamment pour l’hygiene corporelle |
DE102018201343A1 (de) * | 2018-01-30 | 2019-08-01 | Beiersdorf Ag | Reinigungszubereitung enthaltend Polyquaternium-6 Polymere |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR3025101B1 (fr) | 2017-12-29 |
FR3025101A1 (fr) | 2016-03-04 |
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