WO2016001060A1 - Composition cosmétique pour le soin de fibres de kératine, procédé de traitement cosmétique et utilisation associée pour le nettoyage et la revitalisation desdites fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour le soin de fibres de kératine, procédé de traitement cosmétique et utilisation associée pour le nettoyage et la revitalisation desdites fibres de kératine Download PDF

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WO2016001060A1
WO2016001060A1 PCT/EP2015/064399 EP2015064399W WO2016001060A1 WO 2016001060 A1 WO2016001060 A1 WO 2016001060A1 EP 2015064399 W EP2015064399 W EP 2015064399W WO 2016001060 A1 WO2016001060 A1 WO 2016001060A1
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weight
group
radical
composition according
formula
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PCT/EP2015/064399
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Maxime De Boni
Virendra TRIPATHI
Dhimoy ROY
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/621—Coated by inorganic compounds

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition for caring for keratin fibers process for cosmetic treatment and use thereof for cleansing and conditioning the keratin fibers
  • the present invention relates to hair care cosmetic field; more specifically, it relates to cosmetic composition such as shampoo which has good appearance and hair care effect.
  • the conditioning agents most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives which impart to washed, dry or wet hair a disentangling, softness and a smoothness which are markedly enhanced in compari- son to what can be obtained with corresponding cleansing compositions which do not contain them.
  • the present invention is directed towards meeting this need.
  • One of the aims of the present invention is to obtain a composition for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, which possess a pleasant pearlescent appearance, a noteworthy conditioning effect which manifests itself, in particular, in disentangling as well as in providing volume, bounce, smoothness, softness, and suppleness, in particular for dry hair, and moreover in providing an increased foam quality, such as an increased aeration rate and firmness.
  • a cosmetic composition preferably for hair care, comprising, in a aqueous medium,
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said materials or fibers, preferably in a wet state, the composition described above, and optionally rinsing them with water after an optional period of exposure.
  • Yet another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition described above in cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair.
  • the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with pearlescent appearance and improved foam quality, good cleansing and conditioning properties, and meanwhile stable over time. More particularly, improved foam quality is presented by the aeration rate and firmness of the invention, and conditioning properties are pre- sented by better disentangling of dry hair.
  • aeration rate we intend to mean the amount of air present in the volume of foam generated. Higher the aeration rate, better is the foaming ability of the composition.
  • foam firmness we intend to mean the amount of force required to compress generated volume of foam in a packed container. The higher the force required, creamier the foam is.
  • composition according to the invention more particularly presents a very good foam quality (foamability) together with a good pearlescent aspect.
  • the terms "at least a” or “at least one” are equivalent to "one or more”.
  • the essential components of the composition according to the invention are A) at least one surfactant preferably selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof; B) at least one cat- ionic polymer with a charge density greater than 4 meq/g, preferably greater than 5 meq/g; C) at least one aminated silicone; and D) at least one insoluble, non-aminated silicone; E) at least one pearlescent agent; and F) at least one oxyethylenated polymer having a molecular weight (Mw) of greater than or equal to 300,000.
  • Mw molecular weight
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a hair shampoo composition.
  • It comprises at least one surfactant, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, or a mixture thereof. i) Anionic surfactant
  • the at least surfactant is chosen from the anionic surfactants or "surface-active agents".
  • Anionic surfactant is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound in which the hydrophobic part carries an anionic hydrophilic group with a cationic counterion which is generally metallic (alkali metal, such as Na or K) or ammonium; the hydrophilic group is thus polar and capable of dissociating to give anions in aqueous solution.
  • the anionic part comprising a cationic counter anion such as alkali or alkaline earth metal or organic cationic counter anion such as ammonium.
  • anionic surface-active agents of surface-active agents comprising carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate anionic groups, salts of fatty acids, salts of galactosiduronic acids, salts of ether carboxylic acids and their mixtures.
  • anionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • anionic surfactants are advantageously found in the form of salts in the com- position according to the invention, in particular of salts of alkali metals, such as sodium; of alkaline earth metals, such as, for example, magnesium; of ammonium salts; of amine salts; or of aminoalcohol salts. They might also, according to the conditions, occur in their acid form.
  • alkyl or acyl radicals of these various compounds prefera- bly comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radical denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from salts of fatty acids.
  • the anionic surfactants of the invention are sulfates, more specifically is chosen from (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 )alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, their salts such as alkali salts, such as sodium, and their mixtures.
  • anionic surfactants of the invention are chosen from (C6-C 3 o)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates, particularly (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates such as lauryl ether sulfate, their salts, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
  • Nonionic surfactant is chosen from (C6-C 3 o)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates, particularly (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates such as lauryl ether sulfate, their salts, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
  • the at least surfactant is chosen from the nonionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohols, a-diols and alkylphenols, these three types of compound being oxyalkylated such as polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or pol- yglycerolated and containing a fatty chain comprising, for example, 6 to 40 carbon at- oms, the number of alkylene oxide such as ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50 and/or the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • the nonionic surfactant is chosen from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkylpolyglycoside
  • fatty chain means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl polyglycosides or APGs these compounds are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical, wherein the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - a denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4
  • b denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
  • Preferred alkyl polyglycosides useful in the composition of the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which Ri more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, a denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, and G can denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of b in the formula (I), can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
  • the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1 .1 to 1.5.
  • glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.
  • Compounds of formula (I) are represented in particular by the products sold by Cog- nis under the names Plantaren ® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare ® (818, 1200 and 2000). Use may also be made of the products sold by Seppic under the names Triton CG 1 10 (or Oramix CG 1 10) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix ® NS 10), the products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
  • Use may also be made, for example, of C 8 -Ci 6 alkyl 1 ,4-polyglucoside as a 53% aqueous solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare ® 818 UP.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:
  • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; R may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for instance oxygen and nitrogen.
  • R - m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6;
  • R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups.
  • R preferably denotes mono- or polyhydroxylated Ci 0 -C 20 alkyl, and/or alkenyl radicals.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether sold under the name Chimexane ® IMF from Chimex.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols that are suitable for performing the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula (II):
  • R 3 representing a linear or branched C 8 -C 0 alkyl or alenyl group and preferably C 8 - C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
  • - c is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 50 and more particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE).
  • fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE).
  • nonionic surfactants use is preferably made of C6-C 24 alkyl polygluco- sides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols, C 6 -Ci 6 alkyl polyglucosides are more par- ticularly used. iii) Amphoteric surfactant
  • the at least one surfactant is chosen from the amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • R represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R -C(O)- OH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; ⁇ R 5 represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group; and • R 6 represents a carboxymethyl group;
  • ⁇ A represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX'
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)-OH, -CH 2 -C(0)-OZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -C(0)-OH, - CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)-OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • Y' represents -C(0)-OH, -C(0)-OZ' or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or -CH 2 - CH(OH)-S0 3 Z';
  • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.
  • an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminome
  • R 7 represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R 7 C(0)-OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of Ci 7 and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) are preferred.
  • N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium, or cocoamphodiacetate sold for example by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants iii) mentioned above use is preferably made of cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and the N- cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium.
  • amphoteric surfactant iii) mentioned above is cocoylbetaine.
  • Cationic surfactant iii) is cocoylbetaine.
  • composition according to the invention could additionally comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include: - a) those corresponding to the general formula (V) below:
  • formula (V) the groups Re to R-n , which may be identical or different, repre- sent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1 -C30 alkoxy, poly- oxy(C 2 -C 6 )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C-22)alkylamido(C2-C 6 )alkyl, (C12- C-22)alkylacetate, C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X " is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium halides such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance tetraalkylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium halides such as dialkyldime- thylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular halides such as behenyltrime- thylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammoni- um chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, alkoxy sulfates, especially distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipal- mitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoyleth
  • R-I 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
  • R-I 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • Ri represents a Ci-C alkyl group
  • R-I 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C alkyl group
  • X " represents an anionic counterion chosen in particular from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R-I 2 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri 4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R-15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat ® W 75 Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • R-I 6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • R-I 7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N + (R 1 6 a)(Ri7a)(Ri 8a); Rl6a, Rl7a, Rl8a, Rl8, Rl9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • - X " represents an anionic counterion chosen in particular from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C )alkyl- or (Ci-C )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75); - d) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VIII) below:
  • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C-i-C-6 hydroxyalkyi or C-i-C-6 dihydroxyalkyi groups;
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 2 i hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • r1 and t1 which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X " is an anion
  • R23 denotes R27
  • R25 denotes R 2 g
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • R23 is an R 27 hydrocarbon group, it may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is an R 2 g hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R2 4 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C-21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (C i -C 4 )a I kyl a ryl -sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anionic counterion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • R 24 , R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (VIII) examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxy- ethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxy- ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.
  • these groups may be identical or different.
  • These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric surfactant(s).
  • the composition according to the invention contains a combination of a sulfate anionic surfactant and a betaine surfactant, preferably a combination of a sodium lauryl ether sulfate and of cocoylbetain.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the surfactant(s) in a quantity ranging of from 4% to 50% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, preferably from 6% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 12% to 19% by weight, and even more preferably from 12 to 16% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer with a charge density greater than 4 meq/g, preferably greater than 5 meq/g.
  • cationic pol- ymer denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
  • the charge density of the cationic polymers according to the invention is greater than 4 meq/g and even more preferentially greater than 5 meq/g.
  • This charge density is especially determined by the Kjeldahl method. It may also be calculated from the chemical nature of the polymer.
  • the cationic polymers used generally have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers that may more particularly be mentioned are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyi group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group contain- ing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and F3 ⁇ 4 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, in particular a meth- osulfate anion or a halide, in particular chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1 ) can also contain one or more units derived from comon- omers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diace- tone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers - and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated com- pound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with
  • a crosslinked acryla- mide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Sal- care ® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrime- thylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homo- polymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
  • R-I2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R-io and R-n independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (Ci-C ) amidoalkyl group, or R 0 and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as pi- peridyl or morpholinyl;
  • Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R-io and R-n independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • dimethyldiallylammonium salt for example chloride
  • Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molar mass)
  • Alcofix 131 by the company BASF
  • R-I3, Ri 4 , R-I5 and Ri 6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 -C6 lower hydrox- yalkylaliphatic radicals, or else Ri 3 , Ri 4 , R15 and Ri 6 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than the nitrogen, or else Ri 3 , Ri 4 , R15 and R-m represent a linear or branched C-i-C-6 alkyl radical which is substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R-17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which groups may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hy- droxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid
  • A-i , Ri 3 and R15 may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH 2 ) n - CO-D-OC-(CH 2 ) p - in which n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and D denotes:
  • x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4, representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molecular weight of generally between 1000 and 100 000.
  • Ri 8 , R19, R 2 o and R 2 i which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
  • R22, R23, R24 and R25 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH radical,
  • t and u which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34
  • X denotes an anion such as a halide
  • A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
  • Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are poly- alkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquater- nary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1 ) and (2) mentioned above.
  • the cationic polymer used in the present invention is present in the composition from 0.01 % to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2%, more preferably from 0.3% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amino silicone denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine. Amino silicones do not comprise any quaternary ammonium groups.
  • aminated silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from the silicones of formula (XII) below:
  • D is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH), or Ci-C 8 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or Ci-C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, radical,
  • i denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
  • k denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
  • j and I are numbers such that the sum (j + I) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • R 37 is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8, it being possible for one or more hydrogen atoms to be substituted with a hydroxyl group, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
  • R 38 and R' 38 can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monova- lent saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C 20 alkyl radical, and Q and Q " represents an anion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • the aminated silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the formula (XIII) below:
  • R 39 , R 40 and R 4 i which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3 ; a Ci-C alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH; E represents a linear or branched, C 3 -Ce and preferably C 3 -C6 alkylene radical; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and the sum of which is between 1 and 2000.
  • R 39 , R 40 and R 4 i which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical, preferably methyl, or a hydroxyl radical
  • E represents a C-i-Ce and preferably C 3 -C 4 alkylene radical
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
  • the compounds of this type are called "aminodimethicone" in the CTFA dictionary.
  • R 3 g, R 40 and R 4 i which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R 3 g or R 4 i is an alkoxy radical and E represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R 3 g or R 4 i which are same or different, represent a Ci-C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R 40 or R 4 i is an alkoxy radical, R 0 represents a methyl radical and E represents a propyl group, isopropyl group, or a isobutyl group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 , and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • F denotes a C 2 -C 8 and preferably C 2 -C 6 , better still C 3 , linear or branched alkylene radical;
  • R 42 and R 43 denote, independently of one another, a Ci-C 4 alkyl, preferably methyl, radical or a Ci-C 4 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, radical or a hydroxyl radical, m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is greater than or equal to 75 000.
  • radicals R 42 are identical and denote a hydroxyl radical.
  • the viscosity of the amino silicone according to the invention is greater than 25 000 mm 2 /s measured at 25°C. More preferentially, the viscosity of the amino silicone is between 30 000 and 200 000 mm2/s at 25°C and even more preferentially between 50 000 and 150 000 mm 2 /s, measured at 25°C, and even better still from 70 000 to 120 000 mm 2 /s.
  • the viscosities of the silicones are, for example, measured according to standard "ASTM 445 Appendix C".
  • the cationic charge of the aminated silicone according to the invention is less than or equal to 0.5 meq/g, preferably ranging from 0.01 to 0.1 meq/g and better still from 0.03 to 0.06 meq./g.
  • the amino silicone according to the invention has a weight-average mo- lecular weight (Mw) ranging from 75 000 to 1 000 000 and even more preferentially ranging from 100 000 to 200 000.
  • Mw weight-average mo- lecular weight
  • the weight-average molecular weights of the amino silicones according to the invention are measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature, as polystyrene equivalents.
  • the columns used are ⁇ styragel columns.
  • the eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
  • a particularly preferred amino silicone corresponding to formula (XIV) is, for example, Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion from the company Dow Corning and the product Xiameter ® MEM-8299 Emulsion sold by Dow Corning.
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) is in particular the polymer called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" in the CTFA dictionary, corresponding to formula (XV) below:
  • n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XIII).
  • Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 95238; a compound of formula (XIV) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
  • amino silicones according to the invention are quaternized amino silicones, and in particular:
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical, for example methyl
  • R 44 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C-i-de alkylene radical
  • Q " is an anion, in particular chloride
  • o represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • p represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such compounds are described more particularly in Patent US 4185087.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56;
  • R 4 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C-i -Ce alkyl radical, for example methyl;
  • R 7 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C1 -C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1 -C18, and for example C-i -Ce, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R 4 6 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or a radical -R 7 -NHCOR 5 ;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 48 , R 4 9, R50 and R51 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
  • R 52 denotes a Ci-C alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • - r is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - s is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • the amino silicones of the invention are non-quaternized, i.e. they do not comprise a nitrogen atom with a permanent charge.
  • the silicones which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are polysiloxanes comprising amino groups, such as amodimethicones or trimethyl- silylamodimethicones, and in particular the compounds of formula (XIII), (XIV) and (XV).
  • the animated silicone suitable for the present invention is selected from amodimethicones of the formula (XIV).
  • aminated silicones of the invention are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Mentions may be made of the product sold under the name Xiameter ® MEM-8299 Emulsion sold by Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is cetrimonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C-13H27- (OC 2 H 4 ) 6 -OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-6.
  • Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodime- thicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci 3 H 2 7-(OC 2 H 4 )i 2 -OI-l, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
  • the silicone particles in the emulsion have a volume-average diameter [D4.3] generally ranging from 10 nm to 1000 nanometres, preferably from 50 nm to 800 nanometres, more particularly from 100 nm to 600 nanometres and even more particularly from 200 nm to 500 nanometres. These particle sizes may be determined especially using a laser granulometer, for example the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 granulometer.
  • silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions or of microemulsions.
  • the aminated silicone(s) of the present invention can represent from 0.01 % to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.4% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • insoluble is understood to mean insoluble in the final composition.
  • sicone is understood to mean, in conformity with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of appropriately func- tionalized silanes, and comprising in essence a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined to one another by oxygen atoms (siloxane link .tbd.Si-O- Si.tbd.), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • the most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C.sub.1 -C. sub.10 alkyl radicals and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, and aryl radicals and especially phenyl.
  • the silicone of appropriate viscosity is preferably selected from polydialkylsiloxanes; polydiarylsiloxanes; and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
  • linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups such as, for example, and without implied limitation, the SILBIONE oils of the 70047 series, marketed by RHONE-POULENC, or the product sold under the tradename, for example Bel- sil ® DM 60000 by the company Wacker, linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilyl groups, such as the oils of the 48 V series from RHONE- POULENC, product Xiameter ® PMX-200 silicone fluid 60000CS sold by Dow Corning, or a mixture thereof.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may more preferably be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names ABILWAX 9800 and ABILWAX 9801 , which are poly(C1 - C20)alkylsiloxanes.
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes mention may preferably be made of linear or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW CORNING.
  • the insoluble non-aminated silicone according to the present invention is polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the amount of the insoluble, non-aminated silicone of the present invention is from 0.01 % to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 1 % to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one pearlescent agent.
  • the pearlescent agent may be organic, inorganic, or a mixture thereof.
  • pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning iridescent pigments which are in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells or which alternatively are synthesized.
  • pearlescent agents such as mica covered with titanium dioxide or with bismuth oxychloride
  • coloured pearlescent pigments such as mica cov- ered with titanium dioxide and with iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium dioxide and in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide or mica covered with titanium dioxide and with an organic pigment, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • pearlescent pigments of the following pearlescent agents: Cellini sold by Engelhard (mica-TiO 2 -lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiO 2 ), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe 2 O3) or Colorona sold by Merck (mica-TiO 2 -Fe 2 O3), and Pearlescent Pigment Flonac MS 30C sold by Sundarshan Chemical.
  • pearlescent agents of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
  • Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are especially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
  • pearlescent agents of polyethylene terephthalate glitter, in particular that sold by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1 P 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter).
  • multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one inorganic pearlescent agent.
  • the pearlescent agent of the present invention is chosen from mica coated with titanium dioxide and with iron oxides.
  • the pearlescent agent is present in the composition of the invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0,01 % to 5% by weight, better from 0.03% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0,075% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxyethylenated polymers that may be used in the composition of the invention are those with a molecular weight (Mw) calculated by weight of greater than or equal to 300 000, the molecular weight preferably ranging from 400 000 to 4 ⁇ 10 6 and better still from 500 000 to 2 ⁇ 10 6 .
  • the oxyethylenated polymer is a compound of formula (A): H(OCH 2 CH 2 )aOH
  • n is an integer ranging from 7000 to 90 000, preferably from 10 000 to 75 000, more preferably from 25 000 to 65 000, even more preferably from 35 000 to 55 000.
  • oxyethylenated polymer preferably used in the composition of the invention mention may be made especially of PEG 14M (formula (A) in which n is 14 000) such as the product sold under the name Polyox WSR 205 by the company Amerchol, PEG- 45M (formula (A) in which n is 45 000) such as the product sold under the name Polyox WSR N-60 K by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxyethylenated polymer is present in the composition of the invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0,001 % to 5% by weight and better still from 0,005% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0,01 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention may naturally contain, in addition, all the standard adjuvants encountered in the field of shampoos, such as, for example, perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents, thickeners, hydrating agents, antidandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins, sunscreen agents, suspending agents and the like.
  • composition according to the invention may take the form of thickened liquid, creams or gel. They may also take the form of lotions to be rinsed.
  • the composition is a hair composition, and more preferably it is a hair shampoo composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be provided in any galenical form conventionally used and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous- alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of an aqueous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 99% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can also comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C 1 -C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of aliphatic or aromatic C 1 -C7 monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols or C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can thus be employed alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, hexyleneglycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said materials or fibers, preferably in a wet state, the composition described above, and optionally rinsing them with water after an optional period of exposure.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention is the use of the above composition of the invention for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair.
  • SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE contain13.5% AM 13.5% AM ing 1 mol of ethylene oxide
  • COCOYLBETAINE (Mirataine ® BB/FLA 2.25% 2.25% from Rhodia)
  • AMODIMETHICONE (Xiameter ® MEM- 0.4% AM 0.4% AM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning)
  • the pearlescent effect, foaming effect, and hair conditioning effect of the two shampoos, invention A and comparative B were evaluated using the following methods.
  • Pearlescent effects of the invention A and comparative B were evaluated by a group of 6 women models, who have shoulder length hair, by investigating the two shampoos under daylight, both of which have a pleasant pearlescent appearance.
  • Foam qualities of the two shampoos were evaluated and measurements of aeration rate and firmness were taken.
  • Aeration rate was measured as the amount of air present in the volume of foam generated. Higher the aeration rate (%), better is the foaming ability of the shampoo.
  • Foam firmness was measured as the amount of force required to compress generated volume of foam in a packed container. The higher the force required (g), creamier the foam is.
  • probe being a disc of 0 45mm, and thickness 5mm.
  • the scores on hair conditioning effect, especially disentangling of dry hair were evaluated by 6 women models with shoulder long hair, by applying 5g of the invention A and comparative B, respectively, on the hair of the models, rinsing the hair after 3 minutes of foam generation.
  • the hairs were dried using hair dryer.
  • the models gave the scores on the disentangling of dry hair on a rating scale as below, by combing the dry hair using a conventional comb:
  • the invention A has a pleasant pearlescent appearance, an improved conditioning effect, especially on the dry hair, and an improved foam quality.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour le soin de fibres de kératine et une utilisation associée pour le nettoyage et la revitalisation desdites fibres de kératine, en particulier des cheveux, qui comprend : a) un tensioactif choisi dans le groupe constitué par un tensioactif anionique, non ionique, amphotère, ou un mélange de ceux-ci ; B) un polymère cationique présentant une densité de charge supérieure à 4 méq/g ; C) une silicone aminée ; D) une silicone insoluble non aminée ; E) un agent nacrant ; et F) un polymère éthoxylé ayant une masse moléculaire supérieure ou égale à 300 000.
PCT/EP2015/064399 2014-07-03 2015-06-25 Composition cosmétique pour le soin de fibres de kératine, procédé de traitement cosmétique et utilisation associée pour le nettoyage et la revitalisation desdites fibres de kératine WO2016001060A1 (fr)

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Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5955066A (en) * 1995-10-16 1999-09-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Conditioning shampoo compositions having improved stability
US6190648B1 (en) * 1997-06-25 2001-02-20 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetics
US20040087668A1 (en) * 2000-04-11 2004-05-06 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Stable aqueous surfactant compositions
WO2014023440A1 (fr) * 2012-08-06 2014-02-13 Unilever N.V. Composition de shampooing

Patent Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5955066A (en) * 1995-10-16 1999-09-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Conditioning shampoo compositions having improved stability
US6190648B1 (en) * 1997-06-25 2001-02-20 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetics
US20040087668A1 (en) * 2000-04-11 2004-05-06 Noveon Ip Holdings Corp. Stable aqueous surfactant compositions
WO2014023440A1 (fr) * 2012-08-06 2014-02-13 Unilever N.V. Composition de shampooing

Non-Patent Citations (2)

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Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 May 2005 (2005-05-01), "Frizz Control Shampoo", XP002744721, Database accession no. 10219545 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 October 2010 (2010-10-01), "Shampoo", XP002744720, Database accession no. 1414985 *

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