WO2015169455A1 - Préparations ayant une phase de gel externe et une phase particulaire interne, qui contiennent des substances actives stabilisées sensibles à l'oxydation et/ou aux uv - Google Patents

Préparations ayant une phase de gel externe et une phase particulaire interne, qui contiennent des substances actives stabilisées sensibles à l'oxydation et/ou aux uv Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015169455A1
WO2015169455A1 PCT/EP2015/052416 EP2015052416W WO2015169455A1 WO 2015169455 A1 WO2015169455 A1 WO 2015169455A1 EP 2015052416 W EP2015052416 W EP 2015052416W WO 2015169455 A1 WO2015169455 A1 WO 2015169455A1
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group
preparations
substances
phase
preparations according
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PCT/EP2015/052416
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Sven Fey
Janne MOEBIUS
Dana Retzer
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority claimed from DE102014208441.5A external-priority patent/DE102014208441A1/de
Priority claimed from DE201420003724 external-priority patent/DE202014003724U1/de
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP15702507.3A priority Critical patent/EP3139897A1/fr
Priority to AU2015258134A priority patent/AU2015258134B2/en
Priority to BR112016025462A priority patent/BR112016025462A2/pt
Publication of WO2015169455A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015169455A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0283Matrix particles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355Quinones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/57Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to preparations having an outer gel phase and an inner particulate phase containing stabilized antioxidant and / or UV-sensitive active ingredients.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the sensitive and dry skin as well as in the foreground standing of the skin aged or aged by intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors and to support the dermatological lipid metabolism and the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • Cosmetic skincare is primarily understood as strengthening or restoring the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g., water, natural fats, electrolytes).
  • environmental influences e.g., dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • endogenous substances e.g., water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient.
  • skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.
  • the chronological skin aging is caused eg by endogenous, genetically determined factors.
  • the following structural damage and dysfunctions occur, which can also fall under the term "senile xerosis”: a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical noxae can be cumulatively effective and e.g. accelerate or supplement endogenous aging processes.
  • exogenous factors occur, e.g. on the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging: d) visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
  • the present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin, as well as for the treatment of the consequential damages of photoageing, in particular of the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or derivatives thereof) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the structural damage, however, is limited in scope. In addition, there are significant difficulties in product development in stabilizing the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative degradation. In addition, the use of vitamin A acid-containing products often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for the protection of cosmetic preparations themselves or for the protection of the components of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.
  • the present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as skin aging, in particular the skin aging caused by oxidative processes.
  • the present invention relates to active substances and preparations containing such active ingredients, for the cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythema-tuiter, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive phenomena, especially dermatoses.
  • the present invention relates to combinations of active substances and preparations which serve for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses.
  • UVC region The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays having a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC region) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB region, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • UVA range it is important to have available filter substances, since its rays can cause reactions in photosensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagenous fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be regarded as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.
  • such photochemical reaction products are free-radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals.
  • Undefined radical photoproducts which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity.
  • singlet oxygen a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur on UV irradiation, as well as short-lived epoxides and many others.
  • Singlet oxygen for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
  • UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation.
  • ionic species may also be formed upon UV exposure, which in turn may oxidatively interfere with the biochemical processes.
  • antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated in the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • vitamin E a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations, yet here again, the effect achieved lags far behind the hoped for.
  • the object of the invention was therefore also to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active ingredients and preparations as well as sunscreen formulations which serve for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.
  • Erythematous skin manifestations also appear as side effects in certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash in the appearance of acne is regularly more or less reddened.
  • Mainly antioxidants are used as protective substances against spoilage of preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.
  • antioxidants and / or radical scavengers may additionally be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • antioxidants and radical scavengers are known.
  • vitamin E a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved remains far below the hoped-for effect.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to find ways that avoid the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the effect of repairing the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the prophylaxis should be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.
  • cosmetic preparations with coenzyme Q-10 from DE-A-33 09 850 are known, which are used for the treatment of skin diseases, for the prevention of dystrophic and dysmetabolic skin conditions and for use in chemical and physical respiratory damage or delayed respiration associated with age and abuse tion are suitable.
  • Coenzyme Q-10 is characterized by the following structural formula
  • Coenzyme Q-10 for cosmetics is described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 58188010. It aims to activate skin cell metabolism and suppress oxidation. Coenzyme Q10 has as a result an important function in the prevention of skin damage caused by UV rays and the prevention of skin aging. In 20- to 40-year-olds, skin roughness is improved by moisturizing the skin.
  • the quinones can be selected from the group of biochinones.
  • Biochinones are prenylated quinones that occur in the animal and plant kingdoms and fulfill biochemical functions there. Particularly preferred are ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • the hydroquinones can be selected from the group of reduced forms of the corresponding biochinones, that is to say particularly preferably the ubiquinols and plastoquinols.
  • Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle. Plastoquinones have the general structural formula
  • a problem of the prior art is that ubiquinones and plastoquinones rapidly decompose in an oxidative environment, but also under UV radiation, and thus lose their effectiveness.
  • Liquids can be distinguished with regard to their rheological properties by their flow and deformation behavior.
  • Ideal elastic bodies suffer from external forces an elastic deformation, which causes a spontaneous, complete return of the deformation when removing the external force.
  • Ideal viscous bodies are irreversibly changed in shape by external forces. The increasing deformation is called flow.
  • Most liquids are neither viscous nor ideally elastic, but exhibit both viscous and elastic properties and are therefore referred to as viscoelastic substances.
  • Carbopol gels contain acrylic acid polymers which may be linear or cross-linked and which carry a high number of carboxyl groups. In dissolved form, these structures bind water. The neutralization of the carboxyl groups due to their electrostatic repulsion leads to an expansion and thus swelling of the polymer chains. In this state, the carbopol gels achieve their typical rheological properties, e.g. the increase in the viscosity of the cosmetic preparation and / or formation of a yield point.
  • the effect of forming a yield point is thus based on the electrostatic repulsion of the carboxyl groups. Additional electrolytes shield these charges. As a result, the networks collapse, the flow limit collapses, particles or gas bubbles can no longer be levitated.
  • a viscosity selected from the interval 1000-10000 mPas at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of about 10, preferably from 3000 to 9000 at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of about 10, particularly preferably from 5000 to 8000 at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of about 10,
  • substantially spherical particles whose mean diameter is selected from the range of 0.1 to 10 mm, preferably 2 to 7.5 mm, and wherein the particulate phase comprises
  • one or more light filter substances selected from the group of metal oxide pigments,
  • one or more light filter substances which is selected or will be remedied from the group of the customary cosmetic sunscreen filter substances to the state of the art.
  • the preparations according to the invention are in every respect extremely satisfactory preparations, which are not limited to a limited choice of raw materials. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable for serving as a basis for multi-purpose preparation forms.
  • the preparations according to the invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the spreadability to the skin or the ability to absorb into the skin, and are also distinguished by a very good light-protection effectiveness coupled with outstanding skincare data.
  • compositions which are advantageous according to the invention can be obtained by the water-based outer flowable gelatinous phase having a content of one or more hydroploids.
  • Hydrocolloid is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term “hydrophilic colloid”. Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces, which allow side and major valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partly water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.
  • the hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows:
  • organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,
  • inorganic compounds such as.
  • clay minerals such as montmorillonite te, zeolites, silicic acids.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • Natnumcarboxymethylcellulose also known as cellulose Gum under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS Aqualon available.
  • xanthan also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x10 6 to 24x10 6 .
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthan.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z.
  • B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • Another particularly advantageous gelling agent in the context of the present invention is Carrageen, a gel-forming extract similar to agar and made up of northern Atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata) belonging to the Floridae.
  • Carrageen a gel-forming extract similar to agar and made up of northern Atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata) belonging to the Floridae.
  • carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%.
  • Carrageenan which dissolves very easily in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar contains in contrast 3, 6-anhydro-aL-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ -fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals u. easily soluble in cold water.
  • the v-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-aD-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming.
  • Other types of carrageenan are also denoted by Greek letters: ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ .
  • the type of cations present (K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company).
  • the acrylate copolymer (s) according to the invention are characterized by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 from the B.F. Goodrich Company.
  • Ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers in particular those having the empirical formula [CeHgNOjm on, corresponding to a statistical structure as follows
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously from the range of 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 2.0 wt .-%, in particular between 0.25 and 0 , Selected 75 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the outer flowable gel-like phase on an aqueous basis.
  • the polymer matrix which constitutes the backbone of the particulate phase, may be selected from the group of customary, cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, substantially water-insoluble polymeric substances, for example selected from the group of the following substances: algin, carrageenan, agar, gellan gum, chitosan ,
  • alginates preferably sodium alginates, as are also used in DE 44 24 998 A1.
  • Particularly preferred metal oxide pigments according to the invention are oxides of titanium (2), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe 2 O), zirconium (ZrO 2), silicon (SiO 2), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3), Cers (eg Ce20s), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 4 ).
  • oxides of titanium (T1O2) are particularly advantageous according to the invention.
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained, for example or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • Surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3) 6, sodium metaphosphate ( NaP0 3 ) n, silica (Si0 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631 -86-9), or iron oxide (Fe20s).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 or aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3) 6 sodium metaphosphate
  • silica (Si0 2 ) also: silica, CAS No .: 7631 -86-9
  • iron oxide Fe20s
  • Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
  • advantageous UV filter substances are, for example, dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by DSM under the trade name Parsol 1789 and from Merck ® sold under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B.
  • Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS. No .: 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX of available from Chimex;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme- thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methyl-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) (INCI: bisoctyl triazole), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is furthermore the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1 ! 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are z. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2-ethylhexyl) -4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th
  • UV-A and / or broadband filters in particular Dibenzoylmethanderivate [for example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan] and or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine, individually or in any desired Combinations with each other.
  • Dibenzoylmethanderivate for example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the particulate phase contains the substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the particulate phase. It is possible and according to the invention may be advantageous, if not mandatory, to provide not only the particulate phase but also the yellow gel-based outer flowable phase with a content of UV filter substances as long as the requirements for turbidicity are met. As a rule, water-soluble UV filter substances are used in the outer gel phase.
  • water-soluble UV filter substances are to be used in the outer gel phase, it contains the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of, for example.
  • B 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the outer gel phase.
  • the composition constituting the particulate phase or optionally a composition from which the particulate phase is to develop, and which is preferably in flowable form, is shaped into a liquid jet directed to the hardening environment, and in that the formation of the portions is carried out by dividing the liquid jet into defined sections in such a way that the sections move substantially in the direction of the liquid jet before the curing environment.
  • This method can currently be configured that from the composition of which the particulate phase consists, or possibly a composition from which the particulate phase is to develop, a liquid jet is first formed in which the liquid particles move in the direction of the Move the curing environment. After the liquid jet has been formed, it is mechanically divided into defined sections, the sections thus formed continuing to move in the direction predetermined by the fluid jet. The division of the liquid jet is thus carried out by periodically removing liquid from the liquid jet, thereby forming the defined sections. The length of these sections can be kept so short that during the remaining movement to the curing environment, in particular the surface of a hardening medium, due to the surface tension of the liquid medium, an at least approximate spherical shape is formed so that spherical particles are formed.
  • liquid media which have a certain viscosity
  • this coating can optionally cure in the same environment, it is possible according to the present invention, already coating the formed portions of the liquid medium before curing by at least one Liquid transverse jet is generated with a liquid suitable for the envelope through which the formed portions pass.
  • the liquid transverse jet may expediently be formed as a flat jet, so that the possible passage area for the sections is increased.
  • a modification of the method may consist in that the nozzle arrangement is arranged to form at least one liquid jet and below the nozzle arrangement a movable sub-apparatus for the at least one liquid jet is arranged.
  • the sub-device can be positioned directly at the outlet of the nozzle assembly.
  • the moving part device is rotatably driven and equipped with the liquid jet interrupting elements.
  • the rotating drive of the sub-device By the rotating drive of the sub-device, a particularly simple construction of the device according to the invention can be achieved.
  • the elements interrupting the liquid jet can be radially oriented, radial elements which are realized by wires, plastic threads or the like.
  • the elements can be formed without their own dimensional stability and receive their radial orientation only during the rotation of the sub-device.
  • a rotating disk with liquid jet passage openings arranged close to each other on a radius can be used.
  • the webs between the passage openings thereby form the liquid jet interrupting elements.
  • the dividing device is expediently surrounded by a cylindrical housing, which is open at least in the region of the liquid jet and has a collecting recess for collecting liquid that runs down the housing wall. In this way, the liquid jet interrupting the elements is collected radially outwardly thrown liquid and can be supplied to the associated reservoir again.
  • the collecting recess is preferably formed by a circumferential groove, which is provided with a drain.
  • the apparatus may comprise a transverse jet directed at the liquid jet downstream of the sub-assembly, directed at an angle to the liquid jet and connected to a reservoir for a liquid suitable for coating.
  • the transverse nozzle can represent a flat jet nozzle.
  • a liquid jet of a cell emulsion in a sodium alginate solution can emerge from the nozzle and the transverse jet can be formed by a cell-free sodium alginate solution, while in the collecting vessel 5 a CaC solution is present as hardening medium.
  • the transverse jet which is preferably in the form of a flat jet
  • the cell-containing liquid sections are enveloped with the cell-free alginate solution for 3 minutes and then immediately crosslinked, so that migration of the cells from the core into the coating layer can not occur, since the Ca ions travel much faster into the cell Alginate droplets diffuse as the cells can move.
  • volume ratio of inner particulate phase to outer aqueous gel be selected in the range of about 20%: 80% to 74%: 26%, more preferably 30%: 70% to 65% to 35%, most preferably from 40% to 60% to 60%: 40%.
  • the dispenser head (SK) is particularly advantageous.
  • BE outer actuating element
  • SPO dispensing opening
  • RV non-return valve
  • the hollow body (H) at the two front ends (So), (Su) each have openings (Oo), (Ou),
  • dispenser head (SK) wherein in Fig. 1 a of the container (B) in the body (K) and dispenser head (SK) (here provided with an additional, unspecified cap) is shown separated.
  • 1 a shows a dispensing head (SK)
  • FIG. 1 b shows a perspective view of an embodiment of the flexible inner substantially cylindrically shaped hollow body (H)
  • 1 c shows the elevation of an embodiment of the flexible inner substantially cylindrically shaped hollow body (H)
  • the hollow body (H) at the two front ends (So), (Su) each have openings (Oo), (Ou),
  • the hollow body (H) is designed so that the lower opening (Ou) around the lower end (Su) comprises a device (V), the substance flow from the interior of the tubular body (K) into the hollow body into a plurality of partial streams cuts.
  • Fig. 1 d shows a device (V), which is provided, the substance flow from the interior of the tubular body (K) (not listed here) in the hollow body (H) (not listed here) into it by means of three two passage openings (Du ) should cut into three sub-streams.
  • the ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone are optimally protected against oxidation and harmful influence of UV radiation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be triturated to give a homogeneous emulsion which readily penetrates into the skin and is extremely pleasing both visually and haptically.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company.
  • formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza
  • iodopropyl butylcarbamates for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company.
  • the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.
  • antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants all suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or conventional antioxidants can be used.
  • water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives and D-biotin, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, alpha-glucosylrutin, panthenol, aloe vera, honokiol, magnolol.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, where preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • compositions are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. As phytoene, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, N-acetyl-hydroxyproline, taurine and / or ß-alanine.
  • the outer aqueous gel phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and, in particular, one or more thickening agents, which can be advantageously selected from the group Silica, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number
  • xanthan gum As hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.
  • carbopols for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • Moisturizers can also be used with preference.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application or spreading on the skin surface) and / or hydrating the horny layer positively to influence.
  • Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and, for example, are particularly advantageous.
  • Fucogel®1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).
  • Examples A to E are analogous to the experimental example in DE 44 24 998, column 5, processed and formed approximately spherical particles of diameter about 6 mm
  • the first value represents the particulate phase
  • the second value the gel phase
  • Each 40 ml of the preparations A1-E 8, n each individually, are filled into containers as described in the figures FIG. 1 a to FIG. 1 d.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques comprenant : - une phase de type gel, coulante, externe, à base aqueuse - qui présente une transmission pour la lumière des longueurs d'onde de 700 nm dans la plage de 30 à 100 % et/ou - qui présente une viscosité choisie dans l'intervalle de 1 000 - 10 000 mPas à une température de 25°C et une vitesse de cisaillement d'environ 10, de préférence de 3 000 - 9 000 à une température de 25°C et une vitesse de cisaillement d'environ 10, de manière particulièrement préférée de 5 000 - 8 000 à une température de 25°C et une vitesse de cisaillement d'environ 10, et - qui contient facultativement des auxiliaires et/ou additifs classiques, solubles ou dispersibles dans l'eau, - une phase particulaire solide interne, qui - comprend des particules essentiellement sous forme sphérique, dont le diamètre moyen est choisi dans la plage de 0,1 à 10 mm, de préférence 2 à 7,5 mm et dans laquelle la phase particulaire comprend - une matrice de polymère, qui est essentiellement insoluble dans l'eau, - une ou plusieurs substances choisies dans le groupe des ubiquhinones et/ou des plastoquinones - une ou plusieurs substances filtrant la lumière, qui est ou sont choisie(s) dans le groupe des pigments d'oxyde métallique, - facultativement une ou plusieurs substances filtrant la lumière, qui est ou sont choisie(s) dans le groupe des substances filtrantes photoprotectrices, cosmétiques, classiques.
PCT/EP2015/052416 2014-05-06 2015-02-05 Préparations ayant une phase de gel externe et une phase particulaire interne, qui contiennent des substances actives stabilisées sensibles à l'oxydation et/ou aux uv WO2015169455A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15702507.3A EP3139897A1 (fr) 2014-05-06 2015-02-05 Préparations ayant une phase de gel externe et une phase particulaire interne, qui contiennent des substances actives stabilisées sensibles à l'oxydation et/ou aux uv
AU2015258134A AU2015258134B2 (en) 2014-05-06 2015-02-05 Preparations having an outer gel phase and an inner particulate phase comprising stabilized oxidation-and/or UV-sensitive active ingredients
BR112016025462A BR112016025462A2 (pt) 2014-05-06 2015-02-05 preparações cosméticas

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE202014003724.8 2014-05-06
DE102014208441.5A DE102014208441A1 (de) 2014-05-06 2014-05-06 Zubereitungen mit einer äußeren Gelphase und einer inneren partikulären Phase, die stabilisierte oxidations- und/oder UV-empfindliche Wirkstoffe enthält
DE201420003724 DE202014003724U1 (de) 2014-05-06 2014-05-06 Zubereitungen mit einer äußeren Gelphase und einer inneren partikulären Phase, die stabilisierte oxidations-und/oder UV-empfindliche Wirkstoffe enthält
DE102014208441.5 2014-05-06

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Citations (8)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19537027A1 (de) * 1995-10-05 1997-04-10 Beiersdorf Ag Hautpflegemittel für alte Haut
US20020197288A1 (en) * 2001-03-23 2002-12-26 L'oreal Compositions for the skin comprising fibers and ubiquinones and methods of using the same
US6814959B1 (en) * 1999-07-13 2004-11-09 Pharmasol Gmbh UV radiation reflecting or absorbing agents, protecting against harmful UV radiation and reinforcing the natural skin barrier
EP1782792A1 (fr) * 2005-11-07 2007-05-09 Iwase Cosfa Co., Ltd. Poudre composite absorbant les rayons ultra-violet
WO2010051918A2 (fr) * 2008-11-04 2010-05-14 Pharmasol Gmbh Compositions contenant des micro ou nanoparticules lipidiques pour l'amélioration de l'action dermique de particules solides
DE202013103435U1 (de) * 2012-09-13 2013-09-13 Pm-International Ag Kosmetisches Zweikomponenten-Präparat
KR101342958B1 (ko) * 2013-08-08 2013-12-18 (주)바이오제닉스 수난용성 물질을 이용한 안정한 삼중층 캡슐, 이의 제조방법 및 이를 이용한 화장품 조성물
DE102012211790A1 (de) * 2012-07-06 2014-01-09 Beiersdorf Ag Lichtstabile kosmetische Zubereitung

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19537027A1 (de) * 1995-10-05 1997-04-10 Beiersdorf Ag Hautpflegemittel für alte Haut
US6814959B1 (en) * 1999-07-13 2004-11-09 Pharmasol Gmbh UV radiation reflecting or absorbing agents, protecting against harmful UV radiation and reinforcing the natural skin barrier
US20020197288A1 (en) * 2001-03-23 2002-12-26 L'oreal Compositions for the skin comprising fibers and ubiquinones and methods of using the same
EP1782792A1 (fr) * 2005-11-07 2007-05-09 Iwase Cosfa Co., Ltd. Poudre composite absorbant les rayons ultra-violet
WO2010051918A2 (fr) * 2008-11-04 2010-05-14 Pharmasol Gmbh Compositions contenant des micro ou nanoparticules lipidiques pour l'amélioration de l'action dermique de particules solides
DE102012211790A1 (de) * 2012-07-06 2014-01-09 Beiersdorf Ag Lichtstabile kosmetische Zubereitung
DE202013103435U1 (de) * 2012-09-13 2013-09-13 Pm-International Ag Kosmetisches Zweikomponenten-Präparat
KR101342958B1 (ko) * 2013-08-08 2013-12-18 (주)바이오제닉스 수난용성 물질을 이용한 안정한 삼중층 캡슐, 이의 제조방법 및 이를 이용한 화장품 조성물

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Title
BULE M V ET AL: "Microencapsulation of ubiquinone-10 in carbohydrate matrices for improved stability", CARBOHYDRATE POLYMERS, APPLIED SCIENCE PUBLISHERS, LTD. BARKING, GB, vol. 82, no. 4, 11 November 2010 (2010-11-11), pages 1290 - 1296, XP027266323, ISSN: 0144-8617, [retrieved on 20100713] *

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BR112016025462A2 (pt) 2017-08-15
EP3139897A1 (fr) 2017-03-15
AU2015258134A1 (en) 2016-11-24

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