WO2015118395A1 - Method for milling sheets of fabric - Google Patents
Method for milling sheets of fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2015118395A1 WO2015118395A1 PCT/IB2014/067237 IB2014067237W WO2015118395A1 WO 2015118395 A1 WO2015118395 A1 WO 2015118395A1 IB 2014067237 W IB2014067237 W IB 2014067237W WO 2015118395 A1 WO2015118395 A1 WO 2015118395A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- sheet
- milling
- milling drum
- grammage
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C19/00—Breaking or softening of fabrics
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
- A43B23/021—Leather
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
- A43B23/0215—Plastics or artificial leather
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
- A43B23/0235—Different layers of different material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/026—Laminated layers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B7/00—Footwear with health or hygienic arrangements
- A43B7/12—Special watertight footwear
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
- C08G18/00—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
- C08L75/00—Compositions of polyureas or polyurethanes; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- C08L75/04—Polyurethanes
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for milling sheets of fabric comprising high density polyethylene, a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the method for milling, and a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water.
- Milling is a process used in the tanning of leather.
- the aim of milling is to soften leather. This process is performed by introducing skins in a milling drum and rotating the drum for several hours. Thereby, the skins are shaken and creased until a softer feel and a dynamic aesthetical effect are obtained.
- the rotation of the milling drum also allows a faster absorption of possible chemical substances which are used in the process.
- the milling drums used for tanning are watertight cylindrical machines similar to industrial washing machines.
- the milling drums can be manufactured with different materials: wood, stainless steel, polypropylene.
- the drum is formed by a large horizontally positioned cylinder supported by a hollow shaft, placed on ball bearings which allow the rotation. thereof; the cavity in the shaft allows the introduction in the cylinder of water and substances required for the desired processing and the removal of possible gases which are formed during the process.
- the shaft is provided, at one end thereof, with a crown wheel which, by means of a pinion, is displaced by an engine which rotates the milling drum.
- the milling drum is provided with an opening for introducing material, which has a watertight hatch.
- US5489389 discloses a process for oiling leather or skins in a drum with an aqueous dispersion of anionically modified urethane fatty oligomers.
- US2010/310882 discloses a method for applying a coating composition on the surface of natural leather, the composition containing a two-component aliphatic polyurethane , silica particles, a cross-linking agent, a silicone-based touch agent and water.
- the Applicant has developed a series of new materials, from which shoes, bags and various accessories (e.g. wallets and belts) may be obtained.
- An object of the present invention is therefore to provide a milling method which is applicable in a simple and cost-effective manner to materials other than leather and in particular to a sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) .
- HDPE high density polyethylene
- the above object is achieved by the present invention, as it relates to a method for milling at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m 2 comprising the steps of:
- HDPE high density polyethylene
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, which comprises the above said method for milling and is suitable for the processing of the specific material having particular features.
- the above object is by the present invention as it relates to a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the above said milling method, and the steps of:
- FIG. 1 shows a picture of a shoe, in particular a ballet flat, on which the effect obtained by the milling method according to the invention may be observed.
- the method for milling at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) according to the invention comprises several steps.
- a) the at. least one sheet of fabric is introduced in a milling drum together with a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water.
- a second step b) the milling drum is rotated for a time period.
- the high density polyethylene (HDPE) of the sheet of fabric is preferably a material that belongs to the group of products identified by the trademark Tyvek ⁇ manufactured by DuPont , in particular Tyve k 1073.
- the sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) has a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m 2 . If grammages higher than 105 g/m 2 are used, the fabric becomes excessively plasticated and is not sufficiently soft. If grammages lower than 40 g/m 2 are used, the fabric becomes excessively fragile for use in the production of articles and accessories such as shoes or bags .
- the sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) preferably has a grammage from 70 g/m 2 to 80 g/m 2 , more preferably a grammage of 75 g/m 2 .
- the sheet of fabric preferably also comprises a portion of paper, preferably recycled paper and/or recyclable paper.
- the sheet of fabric may be obtained from a high density polyethylene sheet having a grammage from 70 g/m 2 to 80 g/m 2 , laminated with a recycled and/or recyclable paper having a grammage from 25 g/m 2 to 35 g/m 2 (preferably about 26 g/m 2 ), soaked in a vinyl adhesive.
- the lamination with recycled and/or recyclable paper may be performed before step a) or after step b) , i.e. before or after milling, depending on the desired effect. Lamination before milling results in a smoother sheet of fabric, whereas lamination after milling results in a more creased sheet of fabric.
- the sheet of fabric may have a size from 50 cm to 200 cm in length and from 50 cm to 100 cm in width.
- the preferred size is 100 cm in length and 70 cm in width.
- the milling drum used for the milling method according to the invention is preferably a wooden drum for dry milling (without direct and continuous introduction of water) , such as for example the milling drum manufactured by Gozzini, model 3.5 X 3.5 GIG 3500.
- the at least one sheet of fabric is crumpled before step a) .
- step a) from 200 to 800 sheets of fabric, more preferably from 450 to 550 sheets of fabric, even more preferably from 480 a 520 sheets of fabric are preferably introduced into the milling drum.
- the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is from 0.5 litres to 5 litres.
- the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is from 0.5 litres to 2 litres.
- the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is about 1 litre.
- At least one non-processed white skin is also preferably introduced into the milling drum.
- the creasing effect of the sheets of fabric is increased.
- from 450 to 550 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, from 5 to 20 non- processed white skins, each having a weight from 0.5 to 1.5 kg, are preferably used. More preferably, when during step a) , from 480 to 520 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, from 10 to 15 non-processed white skins, each having a weight from 0.75 to 1.25 kg, are used.
- the skin/s is/are recovered and may be reused for following cycles.
- the milling drum is rotated at a speed from 3 rounds/minute to 10 rounds /minute , more preferably at a speed from 5 rounds/minute to 7 rounds /minute , even more preferably at a speed of about 6 rounds/minute.
- the milling drum is rotated for a time period from 60 minutes to 240 minutes, more preferably for a time period from 100 minutes to 200 minutes, even more preferably for a time period of about 120 minutes.
- the method according to the present invention also preferably comprises a step c) of drying in open air the at least one sheet of fabric for a time period from 30 minutes to 2 hours, more preferably about 1 hour.
- the method according to the present invention preferably comprises a step d) , following step b) or c) when present, of coupling to the sheet of fabric a reinforcing sheet made of pure cotton with a grammage from 20 to 30 g/m 2 , more preferably about 25 g/m 2 .
- the coupling is a cold coupling and the reinforcing sheet is attached with a water-based vinyl adhesive.
- a polyester reinforcing sheet is preferably used, allowing disposal of the whole material with plastic. Further alternatives to cotton and polyester are Jersey and viscose .
- the method according to the present invention also preferably comprises a step e) of dyeing the sheet of fabric before step a) or following step b) or c) when present or d) v/hen present.
- step e) of dyeing is preferably performed before step a) because this results in a finer aesthetical effect.
- step e) is preferably performed following step b) or c) when present or d) when present.
- the sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HOPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m 2 milled by the method according to the present invention has very special features.
- the sheet of fabric acguires a special structure in virtue of the integration of the components of the aliphatic polyurethane emulsion with the high density polyethylene. This structure displays features, such as softness, lightness, resistance and waterproof features as well as having a very attractive aesthetical appearance.
- the method for manufacturing an article according to the present invention comprises the milling method disclosed above and the steps of f) cutting at least one profile having an appropriate shape from, the at least one sheet of fabric by die-cutting, and g) stitching the at least one profile having an appropriate shape to obtain the article.
- the article may be a shoe, a bag, a wallet, a keyholder, a belt, a hat etc.
- the article is preferably a shoe .
- the resulting article is extremely light in weight and has excellent resistance, waterproof and aesthetical features .
- a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water is used for milling a sheet of paper comprising high density polyethylene.
- Non-limitative examples of the aliphatic polyurethane emulsion are products of the Urelux group manufactured by Kemiter, in particular Urelux B 129.
- the method according to the invention was used to manufacture different variants of a ballet flat and of a sneaker .
- Example 1 a neutral colour ballet flat was obtained .
- the sheets were crumpled one by one and introduced into a milling drum (Gozzini, model 3.5 X 3.5 GIG 3500) together with 1 litre of a composition comprising 20% Urelux B129 (Keminter) and 80% water and 10 non-processed white skins weighing 1 kg each.
- a milling drum Gozzini, model 3.5 X 3.5 GIG 3500
- the milling drum was rotated at 6 rounds/minute for 120 minutes.
- the sheets were extracted from the milling drum and were left drying for one hour in open air.
- the skins were extracted from the milling drum arid kept for following milling cycles. In virtue of the milling, the sheets of fabric became soft and had an aesthetically pleasant appearance.
- a milled sheet of fabric was cut by a dye-cutting process into several appropriately shaped pieces. The pieces were then assembled and stitched with a needle with a round point (Goz Beckert needle, model 134 DPx5 class R size 65) using a distance between stitches of 2 stitches per centimetre with a low thread tension.
- Example 1 The shoe obtained in Example 1 was subjected to tests for measuring resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexure to verify the quality thereof.
- the tests were standard tests in the shoe manufacturer industry. Table 1 summarises the results of the tests. Table 1
- Example 3 the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were laminated with a recycled and recyclable paper (grammage 26 g/m 2 ) soaked in a vinyl adhesive (latex) .
- Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness these results will not be shown. Furthermore the resulting shoe was more comfortable and softer.
- Example 4 the procedure was the same as in Example
- the reinforcing cotton sheet had a grammage of 25 g/m 2 and was cold coupled to the milled sheet of fabric with a water-based vinyl adhesive by means of a monocylindrical machinery for coupling leather (PCM Engineering) .
- Example 5 the procedure was the same as in Example
- Example 6 the procedure was the same as in Example
- each sheet of fabric was dipped at a room temperature for about 5 seconds in a dying composition comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
- each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
- the dyeing of the shoe therefore does not modify the structural features thereof and improves the aesthetic l appearance thereof.
- Example 7 the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were dyed with an orange paint after milling.
- each sheet of fabric v/as dipped for about 5 seconds in a dying composition comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
- each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
- the dyeing of the shoe therefore does not modify the structural features thereof and improves the aesthetical appearance thereof.
- Example 1 The sheet of fabric in Example 1 was subjected to a series of tests to verify the non-toxicity thereof.
- Test method 2 , 4 -Diaminoanisole (CAS 615-05-
- BBP Buthylbenzyl Phthalate
- DINP Diisononyi Phthalate
- DIDP Diisodecyl Phthalate
- DIBP Diisobuthyl Phthalate
- DnHP Di-n-hexyl Phthalate
- DIHP Diisohexyl Phthalate
- DPP Dipenthylphthalate
- the sheet of fabric obtained by the method according to the invention contains none of the tested toxic agents.
- Example 9 the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were laminated with a recycled and/or recyclable paper (grammage 26 g/m 2 ) soaked in vinyl adhesive (latex) and an additional reinforcing sheet of polyester was used.
- the reinforcing polyester sheet had a grammage of 25 g/rn 2 and was cold, coupled, to the milled sheet of fabric with a water-based vinyl adhesive by means of a monocyl indrical machinery for coupling leather (PCM Engineering) .
- each sheet of fabric was dipped for about 5 seconds in a fuchsia paint comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
- each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
- a dyed and milled sheet of fabric was cut by means of a dye-cutting process into several pieces having an appropriate shape for manufacturing a sneaker shoe.
- the pieces were then assembled and stitched with a needle heaving a round point (Goz Beckert needle, model 134 DPx5 class R size 65) using a stitching distance of 2 stitches per centimetre with a low thread tension.
- the resulting shoe WdS Subjected to a series of tests to verify thickness, resistance to stitching, tensile strength, elongation strength, flexure strength, resistance to abrasion, maintenance of colour intensity upon light exposure, rubbing and aging.
- Test method Average Value - Parallel 15.1 N/mm UNI 10606:2009 Average Value - Perpendicular 15.1 N/mm
- the shoe obtained by the method according to the invention has an excellent resistance to stitching, tensile and elongation strength, flexure strength and resistance to abrasion. Furthermore, the colour of the shoe does not vary after exposure to light, aging and rubbing.
- the method according to the invention allows to radically soften the sheet of fabric without modifying the resistance features. E'urthermore, the resulting sheet of fabric has a pleasant aesthetical appearance .
- the results of the milling method are further improved if each sheet of paper is crumpled before being introduced in the milling drum.
- the weight of the material rotating within the milling drum can be increased (and subsequently promotes the process) without interfering with the interaction between the composition comprising 20% aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water and the sheets of fabric.
- step c) of drying in open air the sheet/s of fabric for a time period from 30 minutes to 2 hours, excess water is evaporated and an ideal material is obtained for the following processing.
- a further step d) of coupling to the sheet of fabric a reinforcing sheet made of pure cotton, polyester, Jersey, or viscose with a grammage from 20 to 30 g/nr the material can be considerably reinforced for specific applications and manufacturing processes.
- the whole product can be disposed of with plastic waste.
- any desired colour can be obtained.
- the method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, according to the invention allows to obtain a soft and light article which is at the same time resistant and waterproof.
- the article also has a pleasant aesthetical appearance.
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Abstract
There is disclosed a method for milling at least one sheet, of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) having a grammage from. 40 to 105 g/m2. The method comprises the steps of: a) introducing the at least one sheet of fabric in a milling drum together with a composition, comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water; and b) rotating the drum for a time period. There is also disclosed a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the method for milling.
Description
METHOD FOR MILLING SHEETS OF FABRIC TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a method for milling sheets of fabric comprising high density polyethylene, a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the method for milling, and a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water.
BACKGROUND ART
Milling is a process used in the tanning of leather. The aim of milling is to soften leather. This process is performed by introducing skins in a milling drum and rotating the drum for several hours. Thereby, the skins are shaken and creased until a softer feel and a dynamic aesthetical effect are obtained. The rotation of the milling drum also allows a faster absorption of possible chemical substances which are used in the process.
The milling drums used for tanning are watertight cylindrical machines similar to industrial washing machines. The milling drums can be manufactured with different materials: wood, stainless steel, polypropylene. More in particular, the drum is formed by a large horizontally positioned cylinder supported by a hollow shaft, placed on ball bearings which allow the rotation.
thereof; the cavity in the shaft allows the introduction in the cylinder of water and substances required for the desired processing and the removal of possible gases which are formed during the process. The shaft is provided, at one end thereof, with a crown wheel which, by means of a pinion, is displaced by an engine which rotates the milling drum. The milling drum is provided with an opening for introducing material, which has a watertight hatch.
US5489389 discloses a process for oiling leather or skins in a drum with an aqueous dispersion of anionically modified urethane fatty oligomers.
US2010/310882 discloses a method for applying a coating composition on the surface of natural leather, the composition containing a two-component aliphatic polyurethane , silica particles, a cross-linking agent, a silicone-based touch agent and water.
The Applicant has developed a series of new materials, from which shoes, bags and various accessories (e.g. wallets and belts) may be obtained.
In view of the totally different nature of these particular materials with respect to leather, the traditional tanning and processing methods of the industry are unsuitable and it has been necessary to develop specific processing techniques.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An object of the present invention is therefore to provide a milling method which is applicable in a simple and cost-effective manner to materials other than leather and in particular to a sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) .
The above object is achieved by the present invention, as it relates to a method for milling at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m2 comprising the steps of:
a) introducing the at least one sheet of fabric in a milling drum together with a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water; and
b) rotating the milling drum for a time period.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, which comprises the above said method for milling and is suitable for the processing of the specific material having particular features.
The above object is
by the present invention as it relates to a method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the above said milling method, and the steps of:
f) cutting at least one profile having an appropriate shape from the at least one sheet of fabric by die-cutting,
and
g) stitching the at least one profile having an appropriate shape to obtain the article.
Definitions
By the term " grammage " there is intended the weight in grams of a sheet of fabric by square meter of surface .
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
A preferred embodiment is hereinafter disclosed for a better understanding of the present invention by mere way of non-limitative example and with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which:
- figure 1 shows a picture of a shoe, in particular a ballet flat, on which the effect obtained by the milling method according to the invention may be observed.
DETAILED PESORIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The method for milling at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) according to the invention comprises several steps.
In a first step a) the at. least one sheet of fabric is introduced in a milling drum together with a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water.
In a second step b) the milling drum is rotated for a time period.
The high density polyethylene (HDPE) of the sheet of
fabric is preferably a material that belongs to the group of products identified by the trademark Tyvek© manufactured by DuPont , in particular Tyve k 1073.
The sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) has a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m2. If grammages higher than 105 g/m2 are used, the fabric becomes excessively plasticated and is not sufficiently soft. If grammages lower than 40 g/m2 are used, the fabric becomes excessively fragile for use in the production of articles and accessories such as shoes or bags . The sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) preferably has a grammage from 70 g/m2 to 80 g/m2, more preferably a grammage of 75 g/m2.
The sheet of fabric preferably also comprises a portion of paper, preferably recycled paper and/or recyclable paper. By way of example , the sheet of fabric may be obtained from a high density polyethylene sheet having a grammage from 70 g/m2 to 80 g/m2, laminated with a recycled and/or recyclable paper having a grammage from 25 g/m2 to 35 g/m2 (preferably about 26 g/m2), soaked in a vinyl adhesive. The lamination with recycled and/or recyclable paper may be performed before step a) or after step b) , i.e. before or after milling, depending on the desired effect. Lamination before milling results in a smoother sheet of fabric, whereas lamination after milling
results in a more creased sheet of fabric.
The sheet of fabric may have a size from 50 cm to 200 cm in length and from 50 cm to 100 cm in width. The preferred size is 100 cm in length and 70 cm in width.
The milling drum used for the milling method according to the invention, is preferably a wooden drum for dry milling (without direct and continuous introduction of water) , such as for example the milling drum manufactured by Gozzini, model 3.5 X 3.5 GIG 3500.
Preferably, the at least one sheet of fabric is crumpled before step a) .
In step a) , from 200 to 800 sheets of fabric, more preferably from 450 to 550 sheets of fabric, even more preferably from 480 a 520 sheets of fabric are preferably introduced into the milling drum.
When during step a) , from 200 to 800 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is from 0.5 litres to 5 litres. When during step a), from 450 to 550 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is from 0.5 litres to 2 litres. When during step a), from 480 to 520 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling
drum, the amount of composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water that is preferably used is about 1 litre.
Furthermore, in order to obtain a more intense effect, at least one non-processed white skin is also preferably introduced into the milling drum. By thereby increasing the weight of the material rotating within the milling drum, the creasing effect of the sheets of fabric is increased. When during step a) , from 450 to 550 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, from 5 to 20 non- processed white skins, each having a weight from 0.5 to 1.5 kg, are preferably used. More preferably, when during step a) , from 480 to 520 sheets of fabric are introduced into the milling drum, from 10 to 15 non-processed white skins, each having a weight from 0.75 to 1.25 kg, are used.
Once the milling cycle is completed, the skin/s is/are recovered and may be reused for following cycles.
Preferably, during step b) , the milling drum, is rotated at a speed from 3 rounds/minute to 10 rounds /minute , more preferably at a speed from 5 rounds/minute to 7 rounds /minute , even more preferably at a speed of about 6 rounds/minute.
Preferably, during step) b) , the milling drum is rotated for a time period from 60 minutes to 240 minutes, more preferably for a time period from 100 minutes to 200
minutes, even more preferably for a time period of about 120 minutes.
The method according to the present invention also preferably comprises a step c) of drying in open air the at least one sheet of fabric for a time period from 30 minutes to 2 hours, more preferably about 1 hour.
The method according to the present invention preferably comprises a step d) , following step b) or c) when present, of coupling to the sheet of fabric a reinforcing sheet made of pure cotton with a grammage from 20 to 30 g/m2, more preferably about 25 g/m2. The coupling is a cold coupling and the reinforcing sheet is attached with a water-based vinyl adhesive. As an alternative to pure cotton, a polyester reinforcing sheet is preferably used, allowing disposal of the whole material with plastic. Further alternatives to cotton and polyester are Jersey and viscose .
The method according to the present invention also preferably comprises a step e) of dyeing the sheet of fabric before step a) or following step b) or c) when present or d) v/hen present. For certain colours, such as e.g. black, step e) of dyeing is preferably performed before step a) because this results in a finer aesthetical effect. For other colours, such as e.g. pastel colours, step e) is preferably performed following step b) or c)
when present or d) when present.
The sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HOPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 g/m2 milled by the method according to the present invention has very special features. Once milled by the method according to the invention, the sheet of fabric acguires a special structure in virtue of the integration of the components of the aliphatic polyurethane emulsion with the high density polyethylene. This structure displays features, such as softness, lightness, resistance and waterproof features as well as having a very attractive aesthetical appearance.
The method for manufacturing an article according to the present invention comprises the milling method disclosed above and the steps of f) cutting at least one profile having an appropriate shape from, the at least one sheet of fabric by die-cutting, and g) stitching the at least one profile having an appropriate shape to obtain the article.
The article may be a shoe, a bag, a wallet, a keyholder, a belt, a hat etc. The article is preferably a shoe .
The resulting article is extremely light in weight and has excellent resistance, waterproof and aesthetical features .
According to the present invention, a composition
comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water is used for milling a sheet of paper comprising high density polyethylene. Non-limitative examples of the aliphatic polyurethane emulsion are products of the Urelux group manufactured by Kemiter, in particular Urelux B 129.
Examples
The method according to the invention was used to manufacture different variants of a ballet flat and of a sneaker .
Example 1
In Example 1, a neutral colour ballet flat was obtained .
500 sheets of Tyvek 1073 (DuPont) having a grammage of 75 g/m2 and a size of 100 cm x 70 cm were provided.
The sheets were crumpled one by one and introduced into a milling drum (Gozzini, model 3.5 X 3.5 GIG 3500) together with 1 litre of a composition comprising 20% Urelux B129 (Keminter) and 80% water and 10 non-processed white skins weighing 1 kg each.
The milling drum was rotated at 6 rounds/minute for 120 minutes.
Once milling was completed, the sheets were extracted from the milling drum and were left drying for one hour in open air. The skins were extracted from the milling drum arid kept for following milling cycles.
In virtue of the milling, the sheets of fabric became soft and had an aesthetically pleasant appearance.
A milled sheet of fabric was cut by a dye-cutting process into several appropriately shaped pieces. The pieces were then assembled and stitched with a needle with a round point (Goz Beckert needle, model 134 DPx5 class R size 65) using a distance between stitches of 2 stitches per centimetre with a low thread tension.
Incidentally, in an alternative example which is not shown for sake of conciseness, a Schmetz 134 Serv 5 needle having size 65 was used and the results were identical,
The resulting ballet flat was not only soft, comfortable to wear, resistant and impermeable to rain, but also had a very fine aesthetical appearance. Example 2
The shoe obtained in Example 1 was subjected to tests for measuring resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexure to verify the quality thereof. The tests were standard tests in the shoe manufacturer industry. Table 1 summarises the results of the tests.
Table 1
The shoe fully passed all tests.
Example 3
In Example 3, the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were laminated with a recycled and recyclable paper (grammage 26 g/m2) soaked in a vinyl adhesive (latex) .
Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness these results will not be shown. Furthermore the resulting shoe was more comfortable and softer.
Example 4
In Example 4, the procedure was the same as in Example
3 with the difference that an additional pure cotton reinforcing sheet was used . The reinforcing cotton sheet had a grammage of 25 g/m2 and was cold coupled to the milled sheet of fabric with a water-based vinyl adhesive by means of a monocylindrical machinery for coupling leather (PCM Engineering) .
Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness hese results will not be shown. Furthermore, the shoe was much more solid.
Example 5
In Example 5, the procedure was the same as in Example
4 with the difference that as reinforcing sheet a polyester sheet having grammage of 25 g/m2 was used.
Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness these
results will not be shown . Furthermore the shoe was extremely solid and could be disposed of as a whole with plastic waste.
Example 6
In Example 6, the procedure was the same as in Example
1 with the difference that the sheets were dyed manually with a black paint before milling.
In particular, each sheet of fabric was dipped at a room temperature for about 5 seconds in a dying composition comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
After dipping, each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness these results will not be shown.
The dyeing of the shoe therefore does not modify the structural features thereof and improves the aesthetic l appearance thereof.
Example 7
In Example 7, the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were dyed with an
orange paint after milling.
In particular, each sheet of fabric v/as dipped for about 5 seconds in a dying composition comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
After dipping, each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
Results for resistance to tearing, to stitching, to abrasion and to repeated flexures were comparable to those shown in Example 2. For the sake of conciseness these results will not be shown.
The dyeing of the shoe therefore does not modify the structural features thereof and improves the aesthetical appearance thereof.
Example 8
The sheet of fabric in Example 1 was subjected to a series of tests to verify the non-toxicity thereof.
Table 2 shows the results.
Table 2
METHOD DESCRIPTION OF ANALYSIS RESULT
Method for determining Aromatic amines deri ing from azo
specific aromatic dyes on fabric
amines derived from
azoic dyes 4-Aminodiphenyi (CAS 92-67-1) N.D for all
Benzidine ( CAS 92 - 87 - 5 )
Part 1: Detection of 4-Chloro-o-Toluidine (CAS 95-69- (N.D= not the use of specific 2) detected) azoic dyes detectable 2-Naphthylamine (CAS 91-59-8)
with or without 2-Amino-4-Nitrotoluene (CAS 99- ( detectability extraction 55-8) threshold
4-Chloroaniline (CAS 106-47-8) 5 mg/kg)
Test method: 2 , 4 -Diaminoanisole (CAS 615-05-
UNI EN ISO 14362-1:2012 04 )
4-4 ' -Diaminophenylmethane (CAS
Operating Conditions 101-77-9)
-GC-MS/HPLC-DAD 3 , 3 ' -Dichlorobenzidine (CAS 91- 94-1)
3 , 3 ' -Dimethoxibenzidine (CAS 119- 90-4)
3, 3' -Dimethylbenzidine (CAS 119- 93-7)
3,3' -Dimetbyl-
4,4' Diaminodiphenylmethane (CAS
838-88-0)
4-Cresidine (CAS 120-71-8)
4,4' -Methylene-Bis- ( 2- Chloroaniline) (CAS 101-14-4)
4, 4' -Oxydianiline (CAS 101-80-4)
4, 4' -Thiodianiline (CAS 139-65-1)
2, 4-Diaminotoluene (CAS 95-80-7)
2, , 5-Trimethylaniline (CAS 137- 17-7)
o-Toluidine (CAS 95-53-4)
o-Aminoazotoluene (CAS 97-56-3)
o-Anisidine (CAS 90-04-0)
2,4-Xylidine (CAS 95-68-1)
2,6-Xylidine (CAS 87-62-7)
4-Aminoazobenzene (CAS 60-09-3)
Determination of
formaldehyde
Part 1: Free and
hydrolysed formaldehyde Free and hydrolysed formaldehyde N. D
(aqueous extraction
method ) ( detectability threshold
Test method: 16 mg/kg)
UNI EN ISO 14184-1:2011
Operating Conditions
-Calibration by linear
regression from 0.15 to
0.3 pg/l
Organostannic compounds
N.D for all
Test method:
UNI GEN ISO TS Organic Compounds of (detectabil.it y
16179:2012 Tin threshold)
DBT 0. 2 mg/kg
TBT 0. 02 mg/kg
TPhT 0. 2 mg/kg
DOT 0. 2 mg/ kg
MBT 0. 2 mg/kg
Determination of Ph halat.es in the Substrate N.
Fhthalates
Bis-2-Ethylhexyl Phthalate (DEHP) 0. 001%
Test method: (CAS N. 117-81-7)
UNI CEN ISO TS Dibuthyl Phthalate (DBF) (CAS N. 0. 001%
16181 : 2011 84-74-2)
Buthylbenzyl Phthalate (BBP) (CAS 0. 001%
Operating Conditions N. 85-68-7)
Diisononyi Phthalate (DINP) (CAS 0. 005 %
-Test performed on the N. 68515-48-0)
total mass of sample Diisodecyl Phthalate (DIDP) (CAS 0. 005%
N. 68515-49-1)
-Extraction performed Dioctyl Phthalate (DnOP) (CAS 0. 001%
with ultrasound bath N.117-84-0)
Sum of DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DIDP 0. 014% and DNOP
Diisobuthyl Phthalate (DIBP) (CAS 0. 001%
N. 84-69-5)
Di-n-hexyl Phthalate (DnHP) (CAS 0. 001%
N, 84-75-3)
Diundecyl Phthalate (DHNUP) (CAS 0. 001 %
N. 68515-42-4)
Diisohexyl Phthalate (DIHP) (CAS 0. 001%
. 146-50-9)
Dipenthylphthalate (DPP) (CAS 0. 001%
131-18-0)
Bis (2-methoxyethyl ) Phthalate 0 , 001%
( DMEP ) (CAS N.117-82-8)
Determination of the Content of Chloroalkanes
content of (CIO - C13)
chloroalkanes in the N. D
fabric ( detectabili y threshold
Chromatographic method 10 mg/kg) for short chained
chlorinated paraffins
(SCCP)
Test method:
ISO/DIS 18219
Operating Conditions
- Ultrasound ext ra c ion :
60°C for Ih.
Determination of the pH aqueous extract pH 6.9
of the aqueous extract
Test method:
UNI EN ISO 3071:2006
Operating Conditions
-Extracting solution:
water (pH=6; T=20°C)
Evaluation of Total Cadmium (Cd) Content N. D
ecological criteria: (detectability De ermination o the threshold total content of metals Total Lead (Pb) Content 0.5 mg/kg)
Test method:
UNI EN ISO 14602:2011
Operating Conditions
Microwave digestion
according to method C
Determination by ICPOES
analysis
As can be seen from Table 2, the sheet of fabric obtained by the method according to the invention contains none of the tested toxic agents.
Example 9
In Example 9, the procedure was the same as in Example 1 with the difference that the sheets were laminated with a recycled and/or recyclable paper (grammage 26 g/m2) soaked in vinyl adhesive (latex) and an additional reinforcing sheet of polyester was used. The reinforcing polyester sheet had a grammage of 25 g/rn2 and was cold, coupled, to the
milled sheet of fabric with a water-based vinyl adhesive by means of a monocyl indrical machinery for coupling leather (PCM Engineering) .
A few sheets were manually dyed with a fuchsia paint before milling.
In particular, each sheet of fabric was dipped for about 5 seconds in a fuchsia paint comprising 40% dimethyl ketone, aliphatic solvents, aniline dyes and fixing agents.
After dipping, each sheet of fabric was laid on supports covered with an absorbing material for about 2 hours. This allows the complete evaporation of the solvents contained in the paint.
A dyed and milled sheet of fabric was cut by means of a dye-cutting process into several pieces having an appropriate shape for manufacturing a sneaker shoe. The pieces were then assembled and stitched with a needle heaving a round point (Goz Beckert needle, model 134 DPx5 class R size 65) using a stitching distance of 2 stitches per centimetre with a low thread tension. The resulting shoe WdS Subjected to a series of tests to verify thickness, resistance to stitching, tensile strength, elongation strength, flexure strength, resistance to abrasion, maintenance of colour intensity upon light exposure, rubbing and aging.
Table 3 summarises the results of the tests.
Table 3
METHOD DESCRIPTION OF ANALYSIS RESULT
Average thickness
Test method: Average Thickness Result 1.6 mm
UNI EN ISO 2589:2006
Resistance to stitching Resistance to stitching
Test method: Average Value - Parallel 15.1 N/mm UNI 10606:2009 Average Value - Perpendicular 15.1 N/mm
Average Value 15.1 N/mm
("parallel" and "perpendicular"
indicate the test samples cut with
the longer sides orthogonal to one
another )
Average thickness
Ave age Thickness Result 1.6 mm
Test method:
UNI EN ISO 2589:2006
Tensile strength and
breaking percentage
elongation
Test method: Tensile strength
UNI EN ISO 3376:2012 Average Value - Parallel 6.6 N/mm'
Average Value - Perpendicular 7.0 N/mm2 Average Value 6.8 N/mm;'
Average breaking percentage
elongation
/Average Value - Parallel 25.9 % Average Value - Perpendicular 23.9 % Average Value 24.9 %
("parallel" and "perpendicular"
indicate the test samples cut with
the longer sides orthogonal to one
another )
Flexure strength
by continuous flexure -
"BALLY FLEX TEST"
Test method: No, of tested samples 1
UNI EN 13512:2002
Flexure strength
Operating Conditions WEFT
-Test in DRY conditions
No. of flexure cycles performed 50000
Detected damage No damage
( visual observation )
No. of tested samples 1
Flexure strength
WARP
No. of flexure cycles performed 50000
Detected damage No damage
(visual observation)
Flexure streng h by
continuous flexure -- "BALLY FLE TEST"
No. of tested samples 1
Test method:
UNI EN 13512:2002 Flexure strength
WEFT
Operating Conditions
-Test performed in WET No. of flexure cycles performed 10000 conditions
Detected damage No damage
( visua 1 observat.i on)
No. of tested samples 1
Flexure strength
WARP
No. of flexure cycles performed 10000
Detected damage No damage
(visua .1 observa t ion)
Resistance to abrasion
Test method:
UNT EN ISO 12947-2:2000
Operating Condi t.i rts No . of cycΪ es perforraed 2000
- Test in DRY
conditions Abrasive effect end point End point
- Pressure: 12kPa (visual
observation)
Degradation of colour 2 (grey
scale ) *
Maintenance of colour
intensity upon
a tifici3.1 1ight
exposure
- xenon arc lamp
Hours of exposure: 8h
Test method;
UNI EN ISO 105~B02:2013 Maintenance of colour intensity 6 (grey
upon artificial light exposure scale) **
Operating Conditions
- Instrument used: very slight
Xenotest chroma tic
150S+ (Atlas© ) with varia tion
Xenon arc lamp NXe 2000
HE (Atlas© )
- Radiation level: 42
W/mz
Test conditions :
Europe, normal
conditions (50°C BST;
50 % U . R . )
- Method 3
- Alternate mode not
used
Accelerated aging in
climatic chamber —
"TROPICAL TEST"
Test method:
UNI EN ISO 17228:2006 Check in changes occurred 4 (grey
scale ) *
Operating Conditions
- Aging by: Heat and No migration high humidity among
- Aging method: 7B (96+ componen ts
2h at 50±2°C and
90+5 UR)
Maintenance of colour
upon rubbing -
"Crockmeter Test"
Tested side : Right side
Test method:
ONI EN ISO 105-X12:2003 Colour release on white cotton
Operating Conditions
- Rubbing cylindrical Test in DRY conditions - 10 cycles 2/3 (grey ankle scale ) * exerting a downward
force of 9.0 ± 0.2 N Test in WET conditions - 10 cycles 3/4 (grey scale ) *
Degradation of colour of
the f abric :
Test in DRY conditions - 10 cycles 5 (grey scale ) *
Test in WET conditions - 10 cycles 5 (grey scale ) *
* Visual observation according to grey scale 1/5 (1= Clear colour release / variation ; 5= No colour release /variation) determined in the artificial light cabin using illuminating D65
** Visual observation according to the scale of the blue wool references 1/8 (1= Clear variation; 8= No variation) determined in the artificial light cabin.
As can be seen from Table 3, the shoe obtained by the method according to the invention has an excellent resistance to stitching, tensile and elongation strength, flexure strength and resistance to abrasion. Furthermore, the colour of the shoe does not vary after exposure to light, aging and rubbing.
From an analysis of the features of the method according to the present invention, the advantages it allows to obtain are apparent.
In particular, the method according to the invention
allows to radically soften the sheet of fabric without modifying the resistance features. E'urthermore, the resulting sheet of fabric has a pleasant aesthetical appearance .
The results of the milling method are further improved if each sheet of paper is crumpled before being introduced in the milling drum.
By using a specific ratio between the amount of sheets of fabric and composition, as well as adjusting the rotation speed of the milling drum and the duration of the process, optimal results can be obtained, i.e. a pleasant but not excessively creased aesthetical appearance.
In virtue of one or more non-processed 'white skins, the weight of the material rotating within the milling drum can be increased (and subsequently promotes the process) without interfering with the interaction between the composition comprising 20% aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water and the sheets of fabric.
By using a grammage from 70 to 80 g/m2, in particular 75 g/m2 for the sheets of fabric, an optimal balance between resistance, lightness and softness of the material i s obtained .
By applying a step c) of drying in open, air the sheet/s of fabric for a time period from 30 minutes to 2 hours, excess water is evaporated and an ideal material is obtained for the following
processing.
In virtue of a further step d) of coupling to the sheet of fabric a reinforcing sheet made of pure cotton, polyester, Jersey, or viscose with a grammage from 20 to 30 g/nr the material can be considerably reinforced for specific applications and manufacturing processes. In particular by using a reinforcing polyester sheet, the whole product can be disposed of with plastic waste.
In virtue of a further step e) of dyeing the sheet of fabric, any desired colour can be obtained.
The method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, according to the invention, allows to obtain a soft and light article which is at the same time resistant and waterproof. The article also has a pleasant aesthetical appearance.
The precise ratio of percentages between aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and water of the composition according to the invention allows to obtain optimal results for the method for milling a sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene.
Finally, it is clear that modifications and variants to the method, article and use disclosed and shown herein can be made without departing from the scope of protection defined by the claims .
Claims
1. A method for milling at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 q/ comprising the steps of:
a) introducing the at least one sheet of fabric in a milling drum together with a composition comprising 20% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water; and
b) rotating the milling drum for a time period.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one sheet of fabric is crumpled before step a) .
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in step a) from 200 to 800 sheets of fabric and an amount from 0.5 L to 5 L of the composition are introduced in the milling drum, and in step b) the milling drum is rotated at a speed from 3 ITOXXncls /miri to 10 rounds /min for a time period from 60 minutes to 240 minutes.
4. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein in step a) at least one non-pJTO CΘ S Sed white skin is also introduced in the milling drum.
5. The method according to claim 4, wherein in step a)
- from. 450 to 550 sheets of fabric,
- an amount from 0.5 L to 2 L of the composition, and from 5 to 20 non-processed white skins, each weighing from 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg,
are introduced in the milling drum..
6. The method according to claim 5, wherein in step a)
- from 480 to 520 sheets of fabric,
- an amount of about 1 L of the composition, and
from 10 to 15 non-processed white skins, each weighing from 0.75 kg to 1.25 kg,
are introduced in the milling drum.
7. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the grammage of the at least one sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) is from 70 g/m2 to 80 g/m2.
8. The method according to any of claims from 3 to 7, wherΘ 1 Γ1 in step b) the milling drum is rotated at a speed from 5 rounds /min to 7 rounds /min for a time period from 100 minutes to 200 minutes.
9. The method, according to any of the preceding claims, also comprising a step c) of drying in open air the at least one sheet of fabric for a time period from 30 minutes to 2 hours.
10. The method according to any of the preceding claims, also comprising a step d) , following step b) or c) when present, of coupling to the sheet of fabric a reinforcing sheet made of pure cotton, Jersey, viscose or polyester with a grammage from 20 to 30 g/m.'".
11. The method according to any of the preceding claims, also comprising a step e) of dyeing the sheet of
fabric before step a) or following step b) or c) when present or d) when present.
12. A sheet of fabric comprising high density polyethylene (HOPE) having a grammage from 40 to 105 g/nr milled by the method according to any of the preceding claims .
13. Article, in particular a shoe, comprising a sheet of fabric according to claim 12.
14. Ά method for manufacturing an article, in particular a shoe, comprising the method for milling according to any of the preceding claims, and the steps of: f) cutting at least one profile having an appropriate shape from the at least one sheet of fabric by die-cutting, and
g) stitching the at least one profile having an appropriate shape to obtain the article.
15. Use of a composition comprising 2,0% of an aliphatic polyurethane emulsion and 80% water for milling a sheet of paper comprising high density polyethylene.
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ITTO20140088 | 2014-02-05 | ||
ITTO2014A000088 | 2014-02-05 |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN109090768A (en) * | 2018-08-13 | 2018-12-28 | 广州市鸿峥实业有限公司 | A kind of production method of the leather shoes with crease-resistant function |
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GB2081303A (en) * | 1980-08-08 | 1982-02-17 | Dose Ludwig | Softening leather |
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CN109090768B (en) * | 2018-08-13 | 2020-11-20 | 广州市鸿峥实业有限公司 | Production method of leather shoes with anti-wrinkle function |
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