WO2015052179A1

WO2015052179A1 - Cosmetic compositions for hairdressers

Info

Publication number: WO2015052179A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/071430
Authority: WO
Inventors: Fawzia INGARGIOLA
Original assignee: Ingargiola Fawzia
Priority date: 2013-10-09
Filing date: 2014-10-07
Publication date: 2015-04-16
Also published as: FR3011463A1; FR3011463B1; EP3055034A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions for use in preventing stains and/or colouring of the skin along the edge of the scalp during the application of dyes and/or colouring products on a person's hair.

Description

Cosmetic compositions for hairdressers

The subject of the present invention is cosmetic compositions that are useful for preventing stains and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation when dyeing (s) and / or dyestuffs are applied to the skin. hair of a person. In particular, the present invention relates to a peelable and peelable film useful for the prevention of staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyes on the hair of a person. The present invention also relates to a method for preventing staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of a person.

When applying dye (s) and / or dyes to a person's hair, even if the product (for example, a hair dye composition) is applied with great care, the coloring of the skin bordering the capillary implantation can not always be avoided. This coloration of the skin is particularly unsightly when it is visible on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation. From. moreover, depending on the applied products and the skin type of the person being treated, these spots may remain for several hours or even persist for a longer period of time (several days).

Thus, many color stain removers have been used after dyeing hair to remove those colored spots on the skin. However, this type of technique has several disadvantages; for example, this can cause irritation of the skin either due to the stain remover composition used, or due to the rubbing to be performed to remove stains from the skin. In addition, this cleaning operation is an obvious discomfort for the person being treated.

Another technique, called preventive and protective, is also used to prevent skin coloration when dyeing hair. This technique uses skin creams in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions that are applied directly to the hairline prior to the treatment of hair coloring. However, this technique is not satisfactory for several reasons among which we will mention: a protection of the skin that is not effective and also because it requires a cream removal step impractical and can sometimes also lead to the irritation problems mentioned above.

FIRE I LLE OF REM PLACEM ENT (RULE 26) The present invention overcomes these disadvantages by using a cosmetic composition which forms a peelable film on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation.

US8211413 claims a method for preventing skin discoloration in the vicinity of the hairline when dyeing a person's hair, including applying to the skin a very particular composition along the root of the hair. a person's hair before dyeing their hair to form a mask and removing the mask after the hair has been dyed. Although this technique partially addresses the aforementioned problems, it turns out that the particular compositions used in US8211413 do not fully meet the requirements of those skilled in the art as further explained in the description of the present invention.

The subject of the present invention is therefore cosmetic compositions that are useful for preventing staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the skin. hair of a person. In particular, the present invention relates to a peelable and peelable film useful for preventing staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or products. dyes sure the hair of a person. The major advantages of the present invention reside in the easy handling of the composition for the user, the ease of application of the composition to the skin, the rapid drying of the composition, which thus forms a sufficiently strong, impermeable and even thin film. , the possibility of proceeding very quickly to the application process dye (s) and / or coloring products after application of the composition of the present invention, and the ease of the step

removal of the film which can be effected by simple detachment (preferably in one piece) without disturbing the person treated.

The invention, with its features and advantages, will emerge more clearly on reading the description given with reference to the appended drawings in which:

Figure 1 illustrates the application to the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 illustrates the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of a person whose skin has been protected in accordance with FIG. 1;

FIREPLACE REPLACEM ENT (RULE 26) Figure 3 illustrates the one-piece separation of the protective film according to the present invention.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least:

30 to 64% by weight of a compound "a" consisting of water,

15 to 50% by weight of a compound "b" consisting of an alcohol and 5 to 18% by weight of at least one compound "c" consisting of a partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol of the formula

- (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

OH OCOCH3 wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] refers to the degree of hydrolysis.

This cosmetic composition is therefore particularly effective since it allows, after its application on the skin, to very effectively prevent skin discoloration and / or the presence of spots on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dyeing ( s) and / or coloring products on the hair of a person.

The present invention therefore also relates to a peelable and peelable film useful for preventing the coloration of the skin and / or the presence of spots on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and or dyestuffs on the hair of a person, said film consisting of a cosmetic composition which comprises at least: a. 30 to 64% by weight of a compound "a" consisting of water,

b. 15 to 50% by weight of a compound "b" consisting of an alcohol, and

vs. 5 to 18% by weight of at least one compound "c" consisting of an alcohol

partially hydrolysed polyvinyl of formula

FIREPLACE REMPLACEMENT (RULE 26) - (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

I I

OH OCOCH3 wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] refers to the degree of hydrolysis.

The present invention also relates to a method for preventing skin discoloration and / or spots on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of the skin. a person characterized in that a drying and peelable film is applied to the skin of the person before the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs, said film consisting of a cosmetic composition which comprises at least one less: a. 30 to 64% by weight of a compound "a" consisting of water,

b. 15 to 50% by weight of a compound "b" consisting of an alcohol, and

vs. 5 to 18% by weight of at least one compound "c" consisting of an alcohol

partially hydrolysed polyvinyl of formula

- (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

I I

OH OCOCH3 wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] refers to the degree of hydrolysis.

In addition to the protection of staining spots, the present invention also aims to constitute a protective screen of the skin against the irritating effects of hair products, such as permanent products, hair straightening in particular that may overflow the capillary implantation.

In addition to protecting the skin of the contour of the face, and although this does not concern its preferred field of application, the present invention can also be used on

FIREPLACE REPLACEM ENT (RULE 26) skin surfaces bordering any hair to dye or color (eyelashes, eyebrows, pubis) and likely to be stained.

The composition according to the present invention is preferably applied in the form of a gel and / or a cream on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation before the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of the skin. 'a person. The actual application of the gel and / or the cream can be carried out in any suitable manner, for example using a spatula and / or by means of the fingertips.

The Applicant has discovered that the composition according to the present invention is particularly suitable for an application made by means of a container (for example a tube) provided with a rectangular shaped tip or bevel that can be directly positioned in contact with the skin .

By way of non-limiting example of a container, mention may be made of the type applicators

"Gel / cream / lotion" depilatory. The tip of the container will preferably be of sufficient width so as to allow by means of a single passage the application of a gel tongue and / or cream of appropriate size to protect the entire skin concerned; this preferred embodiment is shown schematically in Figure 1 below.

A very important advantage of the composition according to the present invention is that this composition already has its qualities of protective screen after application to the skin of the person, which makes it possible not to delay the subsequent step of application of the dye and / or coloring products. In general, the step of applying the dye and / or coloring products is followed by a pause (or waiting time) allowing the coloring action of said products and also a rinsing step; the time taken for the first two stages (application and break) is usually well over 30 minutes, in practice more than 40 minutes or even one hour. Another very important advantage of the composition according to the present invention is that this composition dries very rapidly with a drying time well below the aforementioned 30 minutes, which makes it possible not to increase the treatment period; in practice, depending for example on the ambient temperature and the skin of the person treated, the Applicant has obtained drying times less than 20 minutes, preferably less than 10 minutes, and even less than 5 minutes. The film thus formed has optimum characteristics in terms of strength, fineness and impermeability to the products (dyes). The film

FIRE I LLE OF REM PLACEM ENT (RULE 26) is a real protective screen for the skin of the person treated; this is shown schematically in Figure 2 below where we can see the film protecting the skin during frequent overruns occurring during the application of the dye and / or dyes on the hair.

Finally, the Applicant has also discovered that after drying. and formation of the film, the latter could easily be peeled off the skin, after the application of dye and / or coloring products on the hair, gently and this without causing any particular discomfort for the person; this is shown schematically in Figure 3 below where we can see the detachment of a single piece of the protective film according to the present invention. The detachment of the film can be performed at any convenient time after drying; for example, it may be peeled off after application of the dye and / or coloring products, and / or during or after the aforementioned pause break; according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the detachment of the film takes place before the step of rinsing the hair.

The compound "a" according to the present invention therefore consists of water which constitutes from 30 to 64% by weight of the claimed composition.

The function of said compound "a" consists essentially of a diluent and / or solvent. According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the compound "a" constitutes from 40 to 60% by weight of the claimed composition, for example from 43 to 50% by weight.

The compound "b" according to the present invention therefore consists of an alcohol which constitutes from 15 to 50% by weight of the claimed composition.

The function of said compound "b" consists essentially of an agent for drying and preserving the composition.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the compound "b" constitutes from 20 to 45% by weight of the claimed composition, for example from 30 to 40% by weight.

The alcohol is preferably selected from aliphatic monohydric alcohols or mixtures thereof; preferably from primary parafficic aliphatic monohydric alcohols having less than 10 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol and / or butanol, preferably ethanol.

The compound (s) "c" according to the present invention thus consists of a partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol of formula

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) - (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

OH OCOCH3 wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] refers to the degree of hydrolysis.

The compounds "c" according to the present invention constitute from 5 to 18% by weight of the claimed composition.

The function of said compound "c" consists essentially of an agent allowing the formation of the peelable film.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the compounds "c" constitute more than 10% by weight of the claimed composition, for example from 11 to 15% by weight.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol is selected from those having a value of "n" greater than 1000, for example greater than 1500.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol is selected from those having a value of "n" of less than 3000, for example less than 2200.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol is selected from those having a value of "m" greater than 50, for example greater than 100.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol is selected from those having a value of "m" of less than 500, for example less than 350.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compounds "c" consist of a mixture of at least two different partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohols selected from the abovementioned polyvinyl alcohols.

Indeed, the Applicant has discovered that the compositions according to the present invention were particularly effective when the "c" compounds included at least two different partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohols; for example,

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) Higher results could be obtained when the difference between the degree of

The polymerization of two partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohols was at least 100, preferably at least 150.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol is selected from those having a viscosity value measured at 20 ° C in an aqueous solution comprising 4% by weight of said alcohol between 15 and 45 mPa.s. . Higher results were obtained when the "c" compounds included at least two different partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohols, and when the difference between the measured viscosity value of the two alcohols

partially hydrolysed polyvinyl was at least 2.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises

A compound "a" in a content of between 30 and 64% by weight,

A compound "b" in a content of between 15 and 40% by weight,

At least one compound "c" in a content of between 5 and 18% by weight, and an optional "d" compound which is a humectant present in a content of less than 8% by weight, preferably greater than 1% in weight.

The compound "d" optional according to the present invention therefore consists of a humectant. This humectant may advantageously be selected from the family of polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerine, hygroscopic substances such as sorbitol and / or mannitol.

According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the humectant consists of one or more polyethylene glycol, also called poly (oxyethylenes). Higher results have been obtained when at least two different polyethylene glycols have been used, in particular when the respective units of oxyethylenes of said polyethylene glycols differ by at least 10 units, for example at least 20 units or even at least 50 units. By way of example, mention may be made of an octaethylene glycol (PEG-8) combined with a PEG-90 which comprises the order of 90 oxyetylene units.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition can also include in its composition other compounds among which we will mention

FIREPLACE REMPLACEMENT (RULE 26) as an example of the pigments and / or dyes and / or skin-protecting agents and / or preserving agents and / or odorant-scented agents and / or gelling agents, etcetera.

A non-exhaustive list of said compounds includes polyvinylpyrrolidone, silicone products such as amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, hexadecylmethicone, dimethicone, methicone, vinyidimethicone and the like; calamine, kaolin, zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zinc carbonate and the like; xanthan gum and the like.

However, the compounds a, b, c and optional d (in the ranges of proportions indicated above) will preferably constitute at least 75% by weight of the final cosmetic composition, preferably at least 85% by weight, for example at less than 90% by weight, at least 95% by weight, at least 98% by weight, or even 99% by weight of the final cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a formulation of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the process comprising the following steps:

a) introducing the compound c (polyvinyl alcohol) in the compound a (water), b) stirring and heating at a temperature above 50 ° C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, this step preferably being carried out at a temperature of temperature between 70 and 80 ° C,

c) stirring and addition of the optional compound at a temperature above 50 ° C, this step preferably taking place at a temperature of between 70 and 80 ° C, and

d) cooling and addition of the compound b to a temperature below 45 ° C, this step preferably taking place under vacuum and at a temperature between 20 and 35 ° C.

The addition of optional additional ingredients such as pigments and / or dyes and / or skin-protecting agents and / or preserving agents and / or gelling agents will preferably be carried out between steps c) and d) above, this step is preferably carried out at a temperature below 45 ° C, preferably between 30 and 45 ° C.

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) Addition of optional additional ingredients such as scented perfumes will preferably be performed after step d) above, this step preferably taking place at a temperature below 45 ° C, preferably between 20 and 45 ° C. 35 ° C.

The composition thus obtained may be used directly or diluted to obtain the desired properties.

A control of these pressure and / or temperature conditions can therefore advantageously be included in the device for preparing the cosmetic composition so as to fulfill the conditions described above.

The viscosity of the composition according to the present invention may, for illustrative purposes, be between 10,000 cP (mPa.s) and 100,000 cP (mPa.s); this viscosity measurement being carried out using the BROOKFIELD viscometer RVDV-E230 (M4 V2 to V10) at 21 ° C.

It is therefore obvious to those skilled in the art that the present invention allows embodiments in many other specific forms without departing from the scope of the invention as claimed. Therefore, the present embodiments should be considered by way of illustration but may be modified in the field defined by the scope of the appended claims.

FIREPLACE REPLACEM ENT (RULE 26) Examples

The table below shows two cosmetic compositions according to the present invention. The types of compounds a, b, c and d are indicated in the table and their

percent concentration by weight.

FIREPLACE REMPLACEMENT (RULE 26)

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition useful for preventing staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of a person comprising :

at. 30 to 64% by weight of a compound "a" consisting of water,

b. 15 to 50% by weight of a compound "b" consisting of an alcohol, said compound "b" alcohol being selected from aliphatic monohydric alcohols or mixtures thereof; preferably from primary paraffinic aliphatic monohydric alcohols having less than 10 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol and / or butanol, and

vs. 5 to 18% by weight of "c" compounds consisting of polyvinyl alcohol

partially hydrolyzed formula

- (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

OH OCOCII3 wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] denotes the degree of hydrolysis,

said "c" compounds comprising at least two different partially hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohols.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the compounds "c" constitute more than 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 11 to 15% by weight.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized

in that the compounds "c" are selected from partially hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohols

having a value of "n" greater than 1000, for example greater than 1500, and / or

- having a value of "n" less than 3000, for example less than 2200, and / or

- having a value of "m" greater than 50, for example greater than 100, and / or

having a value of "m" of less than 500, for example less than 350.

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26)

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized

in that the composition also comprises a compound "d" which is a humectant present in a content of less than 8% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized

in that the compounds a, b, c and d constitute at least 75% by weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably at least 85% by weight, for example at least 90% by weight, at least 95% by weight, less than 98% by weight, or even 99% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. Securable and peelable film useful for preventing staining and / or coloring of the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and or dyestuffs on the hair of a person said film consisting of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

7. A method for preventing skin discoloration and / or spots on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of a person characterized by what is applied to the skin of the person before the application of dye (s) and / or dyes a peelable and peelable film, said film consisting of a cosmetic composition comprising:

at. 30 to 64% by weight of a compound "a" consisting of water,

b. 15 to 50% by weight of a compound "b" consisting of an alcohol, and

vs. 5 to 18% by weight of at least one compound "c" consisting of an alcohol

partially hydrolysed polyvinyl of formula

- (CH2-CH) m- (CH2-CH) n-

Wherein [m + n] is the degree of polymerization, and

[100 n / (m + n)] refers to the degree of hydrolysis.

8. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the compound "b" alcohol is selected from aliphatic monohydric alcohols or mixtures thereof; of

FIREPLACE REMPLACEMENT (RULE 26) preferably from primary paraffinic aliphatic monohydric alcohols having less than 10 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol and / or butanol.

9. Method according to any one of claims 7 or 8 characterized in that the compound "c" comprises at least two polyvinyl alcohols partially hydrolysed different.

10. A method for preventing skin discoloration and / or spots on the skin at the edge of the capillary implantation during the application of dye (s) and / or dyestuffs on the hair of a person characterized by what is applied to the skin of the person before the application of dye (s) and / or dyes a peelable and peelable film, said film consisting of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6.

FIRE I LLE OF REM PLACEM ENT (RULE 26)