WO2014170876A1 - A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features - Google Patents

A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014170876A1
WO2014170876A1 PCT/IB2014/060834 IB2014060834W WO2014170876A1 WO 2014170876 A1 WO2014170876 A1 WO 2014170876A1 IB 2014060834 W IB2014060834 W IB 2014060834W WO 2014170876 A1 WO2014170876 A1 WO 2014170876A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fibers
filaments
chitosan
yarn
derivatives
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2014/060834
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Elisabetta CANEPA
Original Assignee
Canepa Elisabetta
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from IT000649A external-priority patent/ITMI20130649A1/en
Application filed by Canepa Elisabetta filed Critical Canepa Elisabetta
Priority to CN201480021688.XA priority Critical patent/CN105164333A/en
Priority to JP2016508279A priority patent/JP6504471B2/en
Priority to EP14727233.0A priority patent/EP2986772B1/en
Publication of WO2014170876A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014170876A1/en
Priority to HK16106811.6A priority patent/HK1218941A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F11/00—Chemical after-treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/001—Treatment with visible light, infrared or ultraviolet, X-rays
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
    • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/53—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with hydrogen sulfide or its salts; with polysulfides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
  • weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving .
  • the invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • a yarn preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • - thin yarns are intended to cover yarns having a yarn count ranging from 40 to 200 Nm, and preferably a yarn count ranging from 65 to 200 Nm;
  • - animal fibers are intended to cover fleece or hair fibers (such as wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere and others) ;
  • continuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by reeling from whole cocoons (such as silk) ;
  • discontinuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by unravelling from defective cocoons (such as waste silk) ;
  • - vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, roots, leaves (such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, coir, ramie, bamboo, and others);
  • - synthetic polymer fibers are intended to cover, for example, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene fibers, and others;
  • - man-made natural fibers are intended to cover, for example, rayon viscose, modal, acetate, cupro, tencel® and others.
  • the present invention is based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, which fulfills the above mentioned needs.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof in a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features as defined in claim 25.
  • the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry by ⁇ products .
  • a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
  • the core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
  • the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
  • the advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long- lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
  • the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
  • the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
  • the process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features comprises the steps of:
  • the process is characterized in that it comprises:
  • a step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before spinning said fibers and/or said filaments, and - performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
  • said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
  • Such hydrolyzing desizing solution - provides enzymatic desizing or
  • said partial and calibrated desizing step which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
  • Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
  • These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others .
  • These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
  • the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan- derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
  • the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
  • a partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
  • the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan- derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • various methods such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
  • composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
  • - chitosan preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
  • said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1- 16 to 1-24.
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be advantageously carried out during said washing step;
  • processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a blending step in a blending chamber, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out in said blending chamber during said blending step;
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the carded fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the carding step;
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the combed fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the combing step;
  • processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a step for preparation of a tuft, a top, a web, a ribbon and/or a roving
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said tuft, said top, said web, said ribbon or said roving, or
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said fibers and/or said filaments before said dyeing step.
  • such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

A process of making a yarn includes, before the weaving step, application of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments of said yarn, and subsequent crosslinking thereof.

Description

"A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features"
DESCRIPTION
The present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
As used herein, the term weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving .
The invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process. As used herein, for example:
- thin yarns are intended to cover yarns having a yarn count ranging from 40 to 200 Nm, and preferably a yarn count ranging from 65 to 200 Nm;
- animal fibers are intended to cover fleece or hair fibers (such as wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere and others) ;
- continuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by reeling from whole cocoons (such as silk) ;
- discontinuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by unravelling from defective cocoons (such as waste silk) ;
- vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, roots, leaves (such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, coir, ramie, bamboo, and others);
- synthetic polymer fibers are intended to cover, for example, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene fibers, and others;
- man-made natural fibers are intended to cover, for example, rayon viscose, modal, acetate, cupro, tencel® and others.
These yarns of the above mentioned type are known to be difficult to spin and weave, due to their thinness which makes them prone to breaking during spinning or later weaving.
Furthermore, at present the following needs are strongly felt in the field of yarns and weaving:
- enhancing mechanical properties, such as abrasion resistance, of a thin yarn, and reducing mechanical friction between weft yarns and warp yarns, for trouble-free weaving;
- developing an environment-friendly and low- power-consumption process of making a yarn having improved suitability for weaving features;
- developing a process of making a yarn having improved features in terms of high resistance to pilling, felting and rubbing, as well as superior mechanical properties while maintaining the desired softness, volume, brightness and lightness features;
- developing a process of making a yarn having improved dye affinity, or improved affinity for the later finishing steps, such as printing.
The present invention is based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, which fulfills the above mentioned needs.
This problem is solved by a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features as defined in claim 1.
In a further aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof in a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features as defined in claim 25.
According to the invention, before the step of spinning, the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry by¬ products .
A reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
The core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
Unlike prior art teachings, the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
The advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long- lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
In a further auxiliary aspect, the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
Conversely, according to a further auxiliary aspect of the present invention, the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
The process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, according to the invention comprises the steps of:
- providing natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together;
- performing one or more processing operations on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, selected from the group comprising: washing, drying, blending, cleaning, opening, reeling, unravelling, carding, combing, parallelization of fibers and/or filaments, web formation, stretching/thinning, rove formation and/or dyeing and
- spinning said fibers and/or said filaments once one or more of said processing operations have been performed on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, to obtain a yarn.
Advantageously, the process is characterized in that it comprises:
- a step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before spinning said fibers and/or said filaments, and - performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
Preferably, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
Alternatively, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
Preferably, in order to facilitate the subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, after said step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
Preferably, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers, is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
Preferably, the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
Alternatively, said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
Preferably, said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
Such hydrolyzing desizing solution: - provides enzymatic desizing or
- provides chemical desizing, using hydrolyzing acids .
Preferably, said partial and calibrated desizing step, which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces. These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others .
These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
According to an alternative embodiment, the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan- derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
Advantageously, the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
The possibility of performing partial and calibrated mechanical desizing of the crosslinked polymer on the fibers does not exclude the possibility that such step may be carried out before or after, and in addition to a partial and calibrated chemical or enzymatic desizing step.
A partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
Preferably, the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan- derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
The above mentioned step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out using various methods, such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
Preferably, the composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
- chitosan, preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
- acid aqueous solution and
- radical photoinitiator .
Preferably, said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
Such solution may be prepared through the steps of:
- dissolving the chitosan of low molecular weight in an acid aqueous solution of acetic acid,
- adding the photoinitiator in an amount of 1.4- 4% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, preferably 1.8-2.2% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, more preferably 2% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, and
- stirring the solution, preferably by magnetic stirring .
If the above mentioned step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out by dipping the latter into a bath of said composition, there will be preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1- 16 to 1-24.
According to different embodiments of the process of the invention:
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a washing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be advantageously carried out during said washing step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a blending step in a blending chamber, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out in said blending chamber during said blending step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a carding step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the carded fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the carding step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a combing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the combed fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the combing step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a step for preparation of a tuft, a top, a web, a ribbon and/or a roving, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said tuft, said top, said web, said ribbon or said roving, or
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a dyeing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said fibers and/or said filaments before said dyeing step.
A yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, which may be obtained with a process according to the present invention, comprises a crosslinked reinforcement chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer, which is applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
Preferably, such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.
In the light of the above disclosure, the process of the invention as described above, and the yarn that can be obtained with such process, can fulfill the needs addressed herein.
The above disclosure is susceptible to a number of changes and variants within the inventive concept, as outlined by the annexed claims.

Claims

1. A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, comprising the steps of:
- providing natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together;
- performing one or more processing operations on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, selected from the group comprising: washing, drying, blending, cleaning, opening, reeling, carding, combing, parallelization, web formation, stretching/thinning, rover formation and/or dyeing and
- spinning said fibers and/or said filaments once one or more of said processing operations have been performed on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, to obtain the yarn, characterized in that it comprises:
- a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments, and
- performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
2. A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 1 wherein, in order to facilitate the subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, after said step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments and said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, before carrying out said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
3. A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning of the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
4. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3, comprising a step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments.
5. A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 4, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out before said step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
6. A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 4, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out after said step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
7. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 4 to 6, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step.
8. A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 7, wherein said hydrolyzing desizing solution:
- provides enzymatic desizing or
- provides chemical desizing, using hydrolyzing acids .
9. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 4 to 9, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a mechanical desizing step, with fibers being acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers.
10. A process as claimed as claimed in claim 9, wherein said mechanical desizing step on the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by sliding the yarn in contact with rigid surfaces .
11. A process as claimed in claim 10, wherein said rigid surfaces consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn, fabric or knit, and/or by the bristles of a brush.
12. A process as claimed in any of claims 9 to 11, wherein said mechanical desizing step for physically acting upon the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out on the yarn during the weaving step.
13. A process as claimed in any of claims 9 to 11, wherein said mechanical desizing step by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by brushing the fabric or knit, or by sliding the fabric or knit in contact with rigid surfaces.
14. A process as claimed in claim 9, wherein said partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan- derived polymer from the fibers is carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers, preferably while said fibers are immersed in the bath.
15. A process as claimed in claim 14, wherein said ultrasonic treatment of the fibers is carried out at the same time as a step weaving or finishing processing step, during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath.
16. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 4 to 15, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments leaves said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9 % w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step .
17. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 16, wherein said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out by impregnation, foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of said fibers and/or said filaments.
18. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 17, wherein said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out using a solution comprising: - chitosan, preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
19. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 18, wherein:
- said processing operations for preparation to spinning include a washing step and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out during said washing step.
20. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 18, wherein:
- said processing operations for preparation to spinning comprise a blending step performed in a blending chamber and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out in said blending chamber during said blending step.
21. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 18, wherein: - said processing operations for preparation to spinning comprise a carding step and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out on carded fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the carding step .
22. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims from 1 to 18, wherein:
- said processing operations for preparation to spinning comprise a combing step and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out on combed fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the combing step .
23. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims from 1 to 18, wherein:
- said processing operations for preparation to spinning comprise a step of preparation of a tuft, a top, a web, a ribbon and/or a roving, and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out on said tuft, said top, said web, said ribbon or said roving.
24. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 18, wherein:
- said processing operations for preparation to spinning comprise a dyeing step and
- said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out on said fibers and/or said filaments, before said dyeing step.
25. A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims from 1 to 25, wherein said yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.
26. A use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof in a process as claimed in any of claims 1 t 25 for making a yarn having suitability for weaving features .
PCT/IB2014/060834 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features WO2014170876A1 (en)

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JP2016508279A JP6504471B2 (en) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Method of producing yarn having compatibility with weaving function
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (en) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving
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