WO2014170808A1

WO2014170808A1 - Applicator having an application surface defined by a multilayer complex

Info

Publication number: WO2014170808A1
Application number: PCT/IB2014/060651
Authority: WO
Inventors: Franck Giron; Florian GHIGLIONE; Véronique Ferrari; Eric Caulier
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-04-15
Filing date: 2014-04-11
Publication date: 2014-10-23
Also published as: FR3004321A1; FR3004321B1

Abstract

Applicator (20)intended for the application of a cosmetic or dermatological product, the applicator (20) having an application surface (21) defined by a multilayer complex having, on its surface, a skin layer (23), preferably made of polyurethane, and, under said skin layer (23), an underlying support layer (24), preferably made of silicone elastomer.

Description

"Applicator having an application surface defined by a multilayer complex"

The present invention relates to applicators for applying a cosmetic or dermatological product to the skin or the lips.

Cosmetic products may be applied directly, this being the case for example with sticks, by manual application, such as certain creams and foundations, or with dedicated applicators such as mascara brushes, foundation sponges, fine brushes, etc.

EP 1 764 019 discloses a skin cleaner with a cleaning surface made of elastically-deformable material and comprising cavities.

WO 2010/001072 discloses an applicator comprising an application surface with reliefs.

The manual application of suitable products such as foundations, care creams or sun protection products using a finger or fingers or the hand allows:

control of the quantity applied,

- the development of the product in a very particular manner,

high sensoriality, and

the possibility of application both to large surface areas using the hand and to small areas with the aid of the fingertip.

However, since product remains on the hands, this method is messy, in particular in the case of coloured products such as foundations.

A number of applicators, such as fine brushes or sponges, exist for avoiding this messy aspect. However, these applicators are only clean when used for the first time. From the second time, they are impregnated with more or less dried product, and this can visually bother the user prior to application, and can modify the characteristics of application during deposition on the skin.

In addition, the sensations felt during application are different from manual application.

Therefore, there is a need to benefit from an applicator which has the advantages of manual application without having the drawbacks thereof.

There is also interest in providing an applicator that reduces loss of product on application and retains a satisfactory appearance even after being used for the first time. The invention aims to meet this need and achieves this aim by virtue of an applicator for a cosmetic or dermatological product, the applicator having an application surface defined by a multilayer complex having, on its surface, a skin layer, preferably made of polyurethane, and, under said skin layer, an underlying layer made of elastomer, preferably silicone elastomer.

By virtue of the invention, the user benefits from an applicator having a touch similar to that of the skin, this giving the user the impression that he is applying the product with his finger.

Preferably, the skin layer is micro structured, and further preferably reproduces the skin microrelief, this making it possible to add a sensory component even closer to direct manual application.

The presence of a microstructured application surface is advantageous in that it makes it possible to shear the product like the pad of the finger or the palm of the hand.

The irregularities of the microrelief also act as product microreservoirs, in the same way as a sponge for example, this giving the applicator more autonomy than a smooth surface. However, the applicator does not absorb the product like a sponge, thereby reducing the loss of product and not leaving traces as in the case of a fine brush.

It is also advantageous that the application surface is approximately the same colour as the product applied, since this makes traces of product less visible after first use.

The expression "approximately the same colour" means a colour such that the colour difference ΔΕ is less than or equal to 15.

The colour difference is measured with the aid of a spectrocolorimeter (for example X-Rite SP62, Datacolor SF600, Minolta CM600, etc.), which measures both the applicator and the colour of the product to be applied.

A further subject of the invention is a device for packaging and applying a cosmetic or dermatological product, comprising:

the product to be applied,

an applicator according to the invention.

A further subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process, comprising the step of applying the product to human keratin materials by way of the applicator.

The product can be applied to the skin or the lips. The applicator may be designed to pick up the product. As a variant, the applicator is designed to dispense the product through at least one orifice, which may open onto the application surface.

The applicator may have the overall shape of a spatula, a dome, an end piece having a bevelled or other shape, a roller, a disc or a cloth.

The product may be selected from a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, an eyeshadow, or a face powder.

The thickness of the skin layer of the multilayer complex is preferably less than or equal to the thickness of the underlying support layer.

Preferably, the thickness of the skin layer is less than or equal to 15 μπι, better still 10 μπι, even better still 5 μπι, being preferably between 0.5 and 2 μπι. The hardness of the support layer is preferably between Shore 00-05 and Shore A- 10.

The invention may be better understood on reading the following description of non-limiting implementation examples thereof, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:

Figure 1 shows a schematic and perspective view of a packaging and application device according to the invention,

Figure 2 shows the structure of the applicator from Figure 1 in section, Figure 3 is a schematic and partial section through a variant embodiment of the applicator,

Figures 4 and 5 are views similar to Figure 2 of variant embodiments, Figures 6 to 10 show perspective views of applicator variants, and

Figure 11 shows a variant embodiment of the container.

The packaging and application device 10 shown in Figure 1 has a packaging device 11 containing at least one product P to be applied and an applicator 20 for manually applying the product P contained in the packaging device 11.

In the example in question, the latter is in the form of a casing having a base 13 and a lid 15, which is for example hinged on the base 13 and is able to move between a closed position in which the product P is packaged in a sealed or non-sealed manner, and an open position for removing the product.

The product P may be contained in a housing 16 in the base 13, as illustrated. The latter may have another housing 18 for receiving the applicator 20 when not in use. In Figure 1, the applicator 20 has been shown on an enlarged scale, removed from the base 13 for greater clarity.

The product P is for example in the form of a block of compacted powder, which may be contained in a dish, or of a block of product poured directly into the casing, or into an attached dish.

The product P may be a coloured product comprising at least one pigment and/or colourant. The product P preferably comprises one or more pigments, in particular selected from iron oxides and interference pigments. The product P may contain a silicone solvent.

The product P may be a foundation, although the invention is not limited to a particular product.

The applicator 20 may have the overall shape of a spatula, as illustrated in Figure 1, having for example an edge 100 having a larger radius of curvature on one side and an opposite edge 101 having a smaller radius of curvature on the other side.

If necessary, the applicator 20 may have, as illustrated, a stiffening rib 103, which extends in a manner set back from the edge 101.

That part of the applicator 20 that extends between the edge 101 and the rib 103 defines a tab 105 having a relatively slender shape, which may be useful for carrying out retouching operations or precise applications.

The widest part of the applicator, next to the edge 100, may act as a gripping part during application, or serve to spread the product over a wider area.

The applicator 20 has a multilayer complex, at least one face of which defines the application surface 21, as illustrated in Figure 2.

In the example in question, the application surface 21 is located on the side opposite the rib 103.

This application surface 21 may be flat or have a slight dome shape towards the outside.

The multilayer complex has a first skin layer 23, which defines the application surface 21, and a support layer 24.

The skin layer 23, which is microstructured, has a microrelief, thereby allowing better deposition and shearing action on application. The microrelief preferably reproduces the skin relief, and can thus be obtained by moulding an impression of the skin, as explained in detail below.

The multilayer complex may also having a second skin layer 29, opposite the first 23.

The second skin layer 29 preferably has the same formulation as the first 23. The second skin layer 29 may have a smooth outer face, as illustrated in Figure 2, or be microstructured.

This second skin layer 29 can improve the feel.

The presence of the skin layer or layers 23 and 29 can reduce the risk of the support layer 24 swelling when products P containing silicone solvents are used. Thus, the support layer 24 can be isolated from the outside by the skin layers 23 and 29, one of which may extend over the edge of the applicator, such that the skin layers 23 and 29 are joined together at their periphery.

Multilayer complex

Generally, the multilayer complex used in the invention comprises a skin layer that at least partially defines the application surface, better still all of the latter, and an underlying support layer in contact with the skin layer.

Skin layer

Preferably, the skin layer is made of elastomer, more preferably of polyurethane (PU). The polyurethane used is for example the one sold under the reference "Baldiez" or "SuperBaldiez" by the company Mouldlife.

Its thickness is preferably less than or equal to 15 μπι, better still than 10 μπι or 5 μπι, being preferably between 0.5 and 2 μπι.

Preferably, the skin layer reproduces the skin microrelief.

It is possible for the skin layer not to contain pigment or colourant; the colour of the application surface can result from a colouration of the support layer and the transparency of the skin layer.

The relief of the skin layer may be obtained by moulding the latter in contact with a mould wall having the negative of the relief to be reproduced. The mould relief may result from taking an impression or by micro-machining or by manufacturing with the aid of a 3D printer.

Support layer The support layer is preferably made of elastomer, and more preferably of crosslinked silicone elastomer. It may be a reactive silicone. The reactive silicone used may for example be the product sold under the reference "Plat-Sil gel 10" by the company Mouldlife.

Oil may be added to the formulation of the support layer prior to crosslinking, thereby making it possible to modify the hardness of the elastomer, depending on the quantity of oil introduced. The oil added is preferably a silicone oil. This also makes it possible to render the elastomer slightly adhesive, thus ensuring adhesion to the skin layer. The quantity of oil introduced is for example between 20 and 70% by mass, relative to the total mass of the mixture.

The support layer can thus be produced from a mixture of reactive silicone "Plat-Sil gel 10" and silicone oil "Smiths Prosthetic Deadener" from the company Mouldlife.

The support layer may be produced with a reactive silicone which, if silicone oil is not added, results in an elastomer having a Shore A hardness of between 5 and 15, better still 8 and 12.

The reactive silicone may comprise a platinum salt as catalyst.

The colour of the multilayer complex may be altered by tinting the support layer, in particular by tinting the elastomer of the support layer or the oil introduced into the latter. Pigments or colourants may be introduced into the support layer. Preferably, the application surface has a skin colour. The colour of the multilayer complex may also be obtained by printing the inner face of the skin layer, in particular with the aid of a food printer.

The multilayer complex may comprise another skin layer under the support layer, which may have the same formulation as the first skin layer, and may or may not have a microstructured surface state.

Second skin layer

As indicated above, the multilayer complex may comprise another skin layer 29 under the support layer 24, which may have the same formulation as the first skin layer 23, and may or may not have a microstructured surface state.

Process for manufacturing the multilayer complex In order to manufacture the multilayer complex with a skin relief, a mould may be produced in the following way:

a negative impression is taken of an area of the body of which the skin microrelief is to be reproduced, for example the back, with the aid of an impression-taking product such as the one known under the reference Silflo,

a positive is produced, for example with the aid of a resin, the mould is produced from the positive.

Next, in order to produce the multilayer complex according to the invention from this mould, the following steps can be carried out:

airbrush deposition of the elastomer intended to form the skin layer, said elastomer being for example diluted in acetone, the total thickness of the skin layer deposited being for example 3 μιη; a plurality of successive thin layers, for example three layers, can be deposited,

mixture of the compounds intended to form the support layer, in particular silicone elastomer and oil,

pouring of the mixture into the mould, or into a part of the latter, airbrush deposition of the elastomer intended to form the possible second skin layer, as for the first skin layer,

removal from the mould.

As a variant, the relief of the mould is produced by digital acquisition of the relief followed by reproduction with the aid of a 3D printer.

No matter how the mould is provided with the microrelief which will be used to produce that of the application surface, the mould may define a cavity, the shape of which may vary depending on the purpose of the multilayer complex.

A layer may be deposited on the first skin layer, prior to the pouring of the support layer, by printing or in some other way, this layer being intended to impart the colour.

If necessary, the applicator may have, at the application surface, a variation in the surface state and/or hardness, or even a variation in the colour, even if it is preferable for the colour of the applicator to be plain and to correspond approximately to that of the product in order to reduce the visibility of traces of product. In order to vary the surface state, the mould can be produced such that it has a number of zones corresponding to different skin reliefs for example.

In order to vary the hardness, it is possible to act on the formulation of the support layer and in particular to introduce a smaller or greater proportion of oil prior to crosslinking.

It is possible to proceed by partitioning the mould so as to avoid the mixture of compositions that are intended to form regions of the applicator having different hardness characteristics. It is also possible to successively mould each of the parts and to wait for one part to set before moulding the next.

Figure 3 shows a variant applicator 20, in which the product is dispensed onto the application surface 21 through one or more orifices 25 that open onto said surface 21. The orifice or orifices 25 may pass through the entire thickness of the multilayer complex.

The multilayer complex may be mounted on an end piece of a container 28 containing the product to the applied, the latter being in the form of a liquid or gel, so as to allow it to be dispensed through the orifice or orifices 25.

The container 28 may be equipped with a system (not shown) for forcing the product to flow through the orifice or orifices 25, such as a piston mechanism or a pump. As a variant, the container has a flexible wall.

An applicator 20 such as the one illustrated in Figure 3 is very particularly suitable for the application of a product to the lips. The relief reproduced by the application surface 21 may be a skin or lip relief.

Figure 4 shows a variant embodiment in which the multilayer complex of the applicator 20 has two opposite microstructured skin layers 23 and 29, which preferably have different surface states, so as to allow the user to vary the application properties depending on which face is chosen to apply the product.

In order to produce the applicator 20 in Figure 4, it is possible for example to put together two multilayer complexes, each comprising a support half-layer 24 and a skin layer 23, so as to combine the support half-layers and to arrange the skin layers on the outside. It is also possible, after the support layer 24 has been moulded onto the first skin layer 23, to bring a textured mould part into contact with the second skin layer after the material intended to form the latter has been poured or sprayed, such that this second skin layer adopts the relief of the mould part covering it. An applicator 20 having the two-sided structure shown in Figure 4 is in the form of a disc, for example.

In the variant embodiment in Figure 5, the second skin layer 29 which is located opposite the first skin layer 23 has abrasive properties, by virtue for example of the presence of abrasive elements 31 on its surface or within it, such as for example grains of a material harder than the elastomer of which the skin layer is made, for example grains of a powder obtained by grinding kernels of fruits or a mineral or synthetic powder. In order to produce an abrasive skin layer, the abrasive (emery, alumina) powder is sprayed directly onto the mould, and then the skin layer is airbrush-deposited. Next, the above process is applied to produce the multilayer complex.

Thus, with the applicator in Figure 5, the user can first of all carry out a light peeling of the skin using the second skin layer 29 loaded with abrasive grains, before applying the product using the first skin layer.

The support layer 24 can be moulded so as to trap a gripping part or an indicator label, as illustrated in Figure 6. It can be seen from this figure that the applicator 20 has an extension 40, a part of which, shown by way of dotted lines, is trapped within the support layer 24. For example, while the latter is being poured in the fluid state, a part of the extension 40 is partially covered before setting. When it is a label, the extension 40 may have indications 41, provided for example by printing. That part of the extension 40 which is inserted into the support layer may be perforated, so as to improve the anchoring thereof within the material.

The applicator 20 may also, as illustrated in Figure 7, be in the form of a roller, the first skin layer 23 defining the application surface 21 of the roller. The latter is guided in rotation about an axis X by a handle 50 of longitudinal axis Y, which may be perpendicular to the axis X, as illustrated. The multilayer structure may be produced in the flat state and then rolled in the form of a cylinder about an axis so as to form the roller. As a variant, the first skin layer is moulded in contact with a cylindrical surface of a mould, which has for example the impression of the skin relief to be reproduced with the applicator, and then the support layer 24 is moulded, through which a rigid axle may pass that serves to mount the handle 50 of the applicator.

The application surface 21 may also have the overall shape of a dome, as illustrated in Figure 8. The support layer and the skin layer may be carried by a gripping part 55, which may be defined by a container containing the product to be applied, in which case a passage allowing the inlet of the product may be produced between the application surface 21 and the interior of the container. As a variant, there is no passage, through the application surface 21, between the space containing the product and said application surface 21, and the product is moved onto the outside of the latter for example by pressing the applicator against the product. The applicator may also be loaded with product by being disposed in a housing of the container, with one or more product supply orifices opening into the bottom of the latter. The applicator may be designed to be fixed to the container when not in use, and the application surface may be positioned facing the product supply orifice or orifices when the applicator closes the container in a sealed manner.

Figure 9 shows an example of an applicator 20 produced in the form of a glove finger, allowing the user to introduce his finger through one end 56 in order to proceed with the application. The application surface 21 may extend all around the longitudinal axis Z of the applicator 20 or as a variant may extend on only one side. The applicator is closed at its end opposite the open end 56. The applicator 20 may have a second skin layer on its inner face, thereby making it possible to improve the feel on application and to make it easier to fit the applicator on the finger or to remove it therefrom.

Figure 10 shows an applicator 20 in the form of a disc with an application face 21 reproducing the skin microrelief and an opposite smooth face. The smooth face may be defined by a skin layer having the same formulation as the skin layer that defines the application surface. During use, the user can apply the product using the microstructured face 21 and then smooth the layer deposited using the opposite smooth face.

Advantageously, the skin layers are joined together at their periphery. As illustrated, the skin layer 23 may cover, at its edge, the support layer.

Figure 11 shows a container which contains the product to be applied. The cap 60 of this container may carry a multilayer complex according to the invention, for example fixed to the top of the cap in a removable or non-removable manner. The multilayer complex may serve to illustrate the appearance of skin made up using the product or skin for which the product is intended. The possibility for the user to bring his finger into contact with the first skin layer 21 of the multilayer complex may constitute an attraction for the consumer. The applicator may be produced in yet other forms, for example in the form of a cloth.

The applicator may have a handle that allows it to be handled or, as a variant, the user can directly grasp the multilayer complex in order to apply the product.

The product can be provided to the user together with the applicator within one and the same packaging, for example a box, case or blister pack. Preferably, the colour of the application surface is the same as that of the product, as indicated above.

The applicator may initially be separate from the container containing the product or be designed to be fixed above the latter and to be separated therefrom when the product is taken for application.

One and the same product can be provided with a number of applicators according to the invention within one and the same packaging device, it being possible for the applicators to be identical or to have different properties, for example in terms of surface state and/or hardness.

When the applicator reproduces a skin microrelief, the latter may have been produced from an impression of the skin or the lips of a known person, whose name is brought to the user's attention, being for example printed on the packaging containing the applicator and/or the product. This person may have participated in the promotion of the brand or be famous for her beauty.

If need be, the applicator may be produced in a personalized manner, in that a person selected by the user of the applicator is selected to produce the impression of the mould that is used to reproduce the skin microrelief. In this case, the process for manufacturing the multilayer structure comprises the selection of the person whose skin relief is reproduced, this selection being made by the end user of the applicator.

The packaging device may be in the form of a pot, the closure of which has a housing containing the applicator, this being closed by a removable cap.

If need be, the applicator may be mounted on a handle designed to be fixed to the container containing the product.

During removal and/or application, the applicator may be subjected to heat or cold by a heating or cooling element, disposed close to the multilayer complex, so as to raise or lower the temperature of the application surface.

The applicator may be subjected to vibrations during application. The application surface may have any desired colour.

It may be advantageous for the colour of the application surface to be close to the colour of the product to be applied, with for example a colour difference ΔΕ less than or equal to 15, since this can render the presence of the product, after first use, less visible. If need be, the applicator can be washed between two uses.

In order to give its colour to the application surface, the skin layer or the support layer can be coloured. In preferred embodiments, the support layer is coloured and the skin layer allows the colour of the support layer to appear by transparency. It is also possible to print the skin layer on its inner face, for example using trichromic printing or quadrichromic printing, for example with a solid colour intended to give its colour to the application surface or to provide a colour nuance, it being possible for the support layer to be mass-coloured.

The impression may for example provide a darker appearance to the application surface.

It is also possible to print a motif, such as a logo for example, on the inner face of the skin layer, this motif being reproduced elsewhere, for example identically or give or take one homothetic transformation, on the container or packaging containing the container and/or the applicator.

The expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one".

Claims

1. Applicator (20) intended for the application of a cosmetic or dermatological product, the applicator (20) having an application surface (21) defined by a multilayer complex having, on its surface, a skin layer (23), preferably made of polyurethane, and, under said skin layer (23), an underlying support layer (24), preferably made of silicone elastomer.

2. Applicator according to Claim 1, wherein the skin layer (23) is microstructured, preferably reproducing the skin microrelief.

3. Applicator according to either of Claims 1 and 2, which has at least one orifice (25) designed to dispense the product.

4. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, which has the overall shape of a spatula, in particular with opposite edges (100, 101) having different radii of curvature.

5. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickness of the skin layer (23) is less than or equal to the thickness of the underlying support layer (24).

6. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickness of the skin layer (23) is less than or equal to 15 μπι.

7. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hardness of the support layer (24) is between Shore 00-05 and Shore A- 10.

8. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin layer is made of polyurethane elastomer.

9. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the support layer is made of silicone elastomer.

10. Applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, which has a second skin layer (29), opposite the first, preferably a skin layer made of the same material as the first skin layer (23), in particular a second skin layer having a smooth outer face.

11. Cosmetic treatment process, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic product to human keratin materials, in particular the skin, by way of the applicator (20) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

12. Device (10) for packaging and applying a cosmetic or dermatological product, comprising :

- the product (P) to be applied;

at least one applicator (20) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10.

13. Device according to Claim 12, wherein the product is a product to be applied to the skin or the lips, in particular a foundation.

14. Device according to Claim 12 or 13, wherein the applicator is designed to pick up the product.

15. Device according to any one of Claims 12 to 14, wherein the product (P) is selected from a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, an eyeshadow or a face powder.

16. Device according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, wherein the application surface (21) is approximately the same colour as the product (P).