WO2014131578A1 - Coloration multiton en une étape comprenant un agent dépourvu de colorant d'oxydation - Google Patents

Coloration multiton en une étape comprenant un agent dépourvu de colorant d'oxydation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014131578A1
WO2014131578A1 PCT/EP2014/052015 EP2014052015W WO2014131578A1 WO 2014131578 A1 WO2014131578 A1 WO 2014131578A1 EP 2014052015 W EP2014052015 W EP 2014052015W WO 2014131578 A1 WO2014131578 A1 WO 2014131578A1
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Prior art keywords
agent
amino
oxidation dye
phenylenediamine
minutes
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PCT/EP2014/052015
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Constanze Neuba
Frank Janssen
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2014131578A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014131578A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent

Definitions

  • the subject matter of the present application is a method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, which makes it possible to color the hair in a staining step and at the same time to produce a multitonale staining with brighter ("highlights") or darker (“lowlights”) parts (streaks).
  • highlights brighter
  • lowlights darker
  • parts sleeper
  • hair dyes are widely used, which are used either in the hairdressing area or by the home application.
  • oxidation colorants are used for permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties.
  • Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen form the actual dyes with one another.
  • oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • dyeing or toning agents are usually used which contain what are known as substantive dyes ("direct drawers") as dyeing components
  • direct drawers the dyeing or toning agents
  • the brightening of the own hair dye or bleaching is the very special wish of many consumers, since a blonde hair color If substrates are to be lightened or even bleached, the dyes coloring the substrate are usually decolorized oxidatively using appropriate oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • oxidizing agents In order to give the hair a more natural appearance, it is proposed to discolor dyed hair partially by targeted application of oxidizing agents.
  • the hair parts ("highlights") to which the oxidizing agents are applied bleach at least partially, resulting in a multitonale hair color.
  • the application of the oxidizing agent is carried out with a brush or a brush, the hair to be treated, if necessary, with aluminum foil or a so-called “highlight cap” to be protected from discoloration.
  • the present invention relates to a process for the oxidative dyeing of keratinic fibers, comprising the steps
  • (a2) has a pH of 8.0 to 14.0
  • (b1) contains one or more oxidation dye precursors
  • (b2) contains one or more oxidizing agents
  • (b3) has a pH of 8.0 to 12.0.
  • a cosmetic agent (A) is applied to the fibers.
  • This agent (A) which is also referred to below as a pretreatment agent or as a pre-penetration agent, is left on the keratinic fibers for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes (step B) of the method according to the invention).
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized by rather shorter reaction times of the pretreatment agent.
  • Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the agent (A) in step B) is allowed to act on the fibers for a period of from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes and more preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes , Particularly preferred methods of the invention are further characterized by B) exposing the agent (A) to a period of 2 to 10 minutes at a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C, preferably 25 to 55 ° C, more preferably 27 to 50 ° C and most preferably from 30 to 45 ° C.
  • the agent (A) should not be uniformly applied to the keratinic fibers. Preferably, only individual areas, more preferably only individual strands, are acted upon by the agent (A). Alternatively, the concentration of agent A on individual highlights can be varied. It is also possible first to apply uniformly the entire keratinic fibers to the agent (A) and then to treat individual regions once more with the agent (A). A repeated treatment of individual areas / strands with the agent (A) is possible according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the application of the cosmetic agent (A) to the fibers in step A) takes place only on individual highlights.
  • step C) of the method according to the invention a cosmetic agent (B) is applied to the fibers still applied with the agent (A).
  • the mixture of the agents (A) and (B) resulting from application of the agent (B) to the keratinic fibers is allowed to act in step D) of the process according to the invention for a period of 5 to 45 minutes.
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized by rather shorter reaction times of the mixture of the agents (A) and (B).
  • Particularly preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the agents (A) and (B) in step D) are allowed to act for a period of from 5 to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 to 20 minutes, particularly preferably from 5 to 15 minutes.
  • the latter exposure times relate to the mixture of the agents (A) and (B). Since the agent (A) has already acted in step B) of the method according to the invention, the fibers as a whole have longer contact with the ingredients of the agent (A) than with the agent (B). If the agent (A) has been averted only on individual strands or in individual areas, the ingredients of the agent (A) could act more intensively in these areas and thus increase or decrease the effect of the ingredients of the agent (B) in these areas a darker or lighter coloration of these areas is achieved.
  • the consumer After rinsing out the agents (A) and (B) in step E) of the method according to the invention, the consumer immediately experiences a multinal color experience without having to take another step.
  • the agent (A) has a pH of 8.0 to 14.0 (a2) and is free of oxidation dye precursors, ie of developers and of couplers (a1).
  • Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol.
  • a particularly preferred alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.
  • Suitable basic amino acids are lysine, arginine and ornithine.
  • the inorganic alkalizing agent of the present invention is preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • the agent (A) comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol in a total amount of from 0.3 to 4, 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 1, 5 wt .-% - related on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains.
  • alkalizing agents selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol in a total amount of from 0.3 to 4, 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 1, 5 wt .-% - related on the total weight of
  • the agent (A) contains one or more combinations of the following alkalizing agents: sodium hydroxide / potassium hydroxide; Sodium hydroxide / monoethanolamine; Potassium hydroxide / monoethanolamine; Sodium hydroxide / ammonia; Potassium hydroxide / ammonia; Monoethanolamine / 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol; Sodium hydroxide / 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and / or potassium hydroxide / 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
  • the pretreatment agent (A) has a pH of 8.0 to 14.0 (a2).
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the agent (A) has a pH (a3) of 8.5 to 11.5, preferably 8.8 to 110, more preferably 9.0 to 10 , 8 and more preferably from 9.2 to 10.5.
  • the pre-penetration agent (A) In order to be able to apply the pre-penetration agent (A) cleanly and locally, a higher viscosity of the composition has proved to be advantageous. It is advantageous if the agent is not present as a paste, viscous cream or thickened gel, but has sufficient fluidity. Furthermore, while the ready-to-use agent must have rheological properties that allow it to be applied to the fibers to be dyed, it also prevents bleeding or leakage of the agent from the site of action during its duration of use.
  • the agents (A) therefore preferably have a viscosity of from 5 to 100 Pas, preferably from 10 to 50 Pas, in particular from 10 to 20 Pas and especially preferably from 10 to 16 Pas (Brookfield, 22 ° C., spindle # 5, 4 rpm).
  • a further very particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the pre-penetration agent (A) has a viscosity of from 5000 to 12,000 mPas, preferably from 5,500 to 11,000 mPas, more preferably from 6000 to 10,000 mPas, and most preferably from 6500 to 9500 mPas (Brookfield, 22 ° C, spindle # 5, 4 rpm).
  • preferred agents (A) contain at least one thickener and / or at least one gelling agent.
  • preferred processes according to the invention in which the agent (A) additionally contains at least one thickener and / or at least one gelling agent are preferred according to the invention.
  • particularly preferred pre-penetration agents (A) are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one anionic, polymeric thickener.
  • Preferred anionic polymeric thickeners are selected from crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers containing at least two different monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, the CC 6 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or the CC 6 alkyl esters of methacrylic acid.
  • Particularly preferred anionic copolymers are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their CC 6 alkyl esters, which are marketed under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer. Particularly preferred is the combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and optionally crosslinking, multifunctional monomers.
  • the pre-penetration agent (A) may comprise one or more anionic, polymeric thickeners from the group of xanthans, alginates, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hyaluronic acids.
  • Xanthan is an anionic polysaccharide, which is built up among others from the structural components D-glucose, D-mannose, D-glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate and which is also known under the INCI name Xanthan Gum.
  • Alginates are the salts of alginic acid. Alginates are acidic, carboxy group-containing polysaccharides consisting of D-mannuronic acid and D-guluronic acid in different ratios, which are linked to 1 -4-glycosidic bonds. According to the invention, both the alkali metal and the alkaline earth metal salts of the Align Tarren.
  • alginic acid, sodium alginate, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate and / or calcium alginate in the compositions according to the invention has proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • Carboxyalkylcelluloses are cellulose ethers in which the hydrogen atoms of the hydroxy groups of the cellulose are partially or completely substituted by carboxyalkyl groups.
  • a preferred carboxyalkylcellulose is the carboxymethylcellulose, which may preferably be used as anionic polymer in the form of its sodium salt (sodium carboxymethylcellulose).
  • Hyaluronic acid Basic building blocks of hyaluronic acid (INCI names Hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate) is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine in 1 -3-glycosidic bond, which is linked to the next unit ⁇ -1-4-glycosidic.
  • Sodium and potassium salts of Hyaluronic acid have been found in the work leading to this invention to be particularly suitable for producing intensely coloring and optimized with regard to their viscosity dyeing formulations.
  • a further very particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the pre-penetration agent (A) comprises one or more anionic, polymeric thickeners from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid and CC 6 alkyl esters, copolymers of methacrylic acid and CC 6 alkyl esters, xanthan and caroboxymethylcellulose ,
  • the anionic polymeric thickening agents may preferably be used in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 1 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 5 to 7.5 wt .-%, wherein the Refer amounts to the total weight of the pre-penetration agent (A).
  • the pretreatment agent (A) alone is preferably not able to be used as a separate bleaching, whitening or coloring agent.
  • the preparations ready for application (A) are free of oxidizing agents, in particular free of hydrogen peroxide and / or persulfates.
  • free from means that no intentionally added compounds from the named groups are contained in the agents, although traces of these compounds can be introduced as impurities or as an additive via other raw materials into the funds ready-to-apply agent (A) - based on their weight - less than 1 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.25 wt .-%, even more preferably less than 0.1 Wt .-% and in particular less than 0.01 wt .-% of compounds from the groups mentioned.
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the agent (A) used in step A), based on its weight, is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.25 Wt .-%, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and in particular less than 0.01 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide.
  • agent (A) used in step A), based on its weight, is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0, 25 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.01 wt .-% peroxo compounds.
  • the effect of the pre-penetrating agent can be enhanced with regard to particularly natural and luminous multitonale colorations, if cationic surfactants are included in it.
  • these substances cause the inventive method less damage the keratin fibers, without affecting the success of the subsequent dyeing step.
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the agent (A) additionally contains one or more cationic surfactants.
  • cationic surfactants it is possible according to the invention to use all cationic surfactants known and customary to the person skilled in the art. Which includes:
  • Quaternary imidazoline compound The following formula Quimi-I shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. Examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91, cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2),
  • R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 1 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain
  • X is -O- or -NR 5 -
  • R is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms which may not be substituted or substituted, wherein substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution
  • R 2 , R 3 are each independently an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C - Atoms in the chain, wherein the chain can be straight or branched.
  • R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group.
  • the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:
  • Esterquats be used according to the formula (Tkat1 -2).
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • A stands for:
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and R 4 stands for:
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and Q stands for a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat®, Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • Monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms corresponding to the formula (Tkat1 -1),
  • R 1, R 2 and R 3 are each a methyl group and R 4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • R 1 -1 examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1 -1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and
  • Amines and / or cationized amines in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and X "is an anion and n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • X is an anion and n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R 1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one OH group, preference being given to a fatty acid radical comprising oils and waxes, in particular natural oils and waxes Examples of these are lanolin, beeswaxes or candellila waxes.Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or
  • the alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R2, R3 and R4 and / or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO 3 "in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both The cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred according to the invention.
  • the amidoamines to be used according to the invention which may optionally be quaternized, are, for example, amidoamines: Witcamine.RTM.
  • the anion of all of the previously described cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions.
  • these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RS ⁇ 3 " , wherein R is the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid radicals such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • the aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • the surfactants (T) are in a total amount of the surfactants in amounts of 0.05 to 45 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 30 wt.% And most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt.%, Based on the total used according to the invention.
  • the pretreatment agent (A) may contain other common ingredients, these are described in detail below.
  • a cosmetic agent (B) is applied to the keratinic fibers, which are still applied to the agent (A).
  • This agent (B) contains one or more oxidation dye precursors (b1) and one or more oxidants (b2) and has a pH of 8.0 to 12.0.
  • the agent (B) contains as oxidation dye precursor (b1) one or more oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type.
  • Preferred agents (B) contain at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the agent (B) contains one or more oxidation dye precursors of the developer type as oxidation dye precursor (b1) are preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are p-phenylenediamine derivatives.
  • Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4 -Amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylene diamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'- Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ '-diethyl-N, N
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 -hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Particularly preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-ol hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4- Amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino
  • Very particularly preferred compounds are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic Developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine and pyrazolopyrazole derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3-
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidines are the compounds which are selected from pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, pyrazolo [ 1, 5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-7 ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1, 5- a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl)
  • developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N- Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-a
  • Very particularly preferred Developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole-1 -yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4, 5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer-type oxidation dye precursors are particularly well suited for use in agent (B) and, in its applications, for particularly vivid, wash, rub, perspiration, and UV-authentic multi-tonal dyeings to lead.
  • the agent (B) as the oxidation dye precursor of the developer type contains one or more compounds from the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3 (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and / or physiologically acceptable salts thereof in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-%
  • the agent (B) as the oxidation dye precursor of the developer type contains one or more compounds from the group consisting of bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-) diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane , p-aminophenol, 4- and amino-3-methylphenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts in a total amount of from 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.4 to 2.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent (B) -.
  • the agent (B) as the oxidation dye precursor of the developer type comprises one or more compounds from the group consisting of 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine , 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazole-1 -one and / or physiologically acceptable salts thereof in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2 , 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent (B) -.
  • the agent (B) contains as developer-type oxidation dye precursors at least one of the following combinations: p-toluenediamine / 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine; p-toluenediamine / 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine; p-toluenediamine / N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine; p-toluenediamine / 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine; p-toluenediamine / N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine; p-toluenediamine / bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane; p-toluenediamine / 4-amino-3-methylphenol;
  • the agent (B) further contains one or more coupler-type oxidation dye precursors.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component. Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes: m-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, m-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and / or derivatives thereof; Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group; Di- or trihydroxybenzene; pyridine derivatives; pyrimidine derivatives; certain indole derivatives and indoline derivatives; Pyrazolone derivatives (for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one); Morpholine derivatives (for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine); Quinoxaline derivatives (for example, 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline), as well as mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes.
  • Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy 4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol , 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2, 4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2- amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morph
  • Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group are selected from at least one compound of the group 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2J-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.
  • Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and derivatives thereof are selected from at least one compound of the group resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4- trihydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2, 6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 3, 4-Diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4- methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro 2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diamino-phenyl) -propane, 2.6 Bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ ( ⁇
  • resorcinol very particularly preferred are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 1-naphthol and one of their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt .-%, each based on the agent (B).
  • coupler-type oxidation dye precursors are particularly well-suited in certain amounts to be used in the colorant (B) and to give it particularly lively, wash-, rub-, perspiration- and UV-authentic multi-tonal dyeings to lead.
  • the agent (B) as coupler-type oxidation dye precursor contains one or more compounds from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2 -Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent (B) - contains.
  • the agent (B) as coupler type oxidation dye precursor contains one or more compounds from the group consisting of 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1 Methylbenzene and / or physiologically acceptable salts thereof in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent (B) - contains.
  • the agent (B) as coupler-type oxidation dye precursor contains one or more compounds from the group resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and / or 4-chlororesorcinol in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5% by weight. %, preferably from 0.3 to 2.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.4 to 2.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1, 6 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent (B) - contains.
  • agent (B) as Oxidationsfarbstoffvorpdodukt coupler type one or more compounds from the group 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy 3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one and / or their physiologically acceptable salts in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.5 wt.
  • the agent (B) as coupler-type oxidation dye precursor contains at least one of the following combinations: resorcinol / 3-aminophenol; 2-methyl / 3-aminophenol; 4-chlororesorcinol / 3-aminophenol; Resorcinol / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 2-methyl resorcinol / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 4-chlororesorcinol / 5-amino-2-methylphenol; Resorcinol / 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol; 2-methylresorcinol / 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol; 4-chlororesorcinol / 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol; Resorcinol / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 2-methyl / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4-chlororesorcinol / 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridines; Resorcinol / 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-
  • the ready-to-use agents (B) additionally contain one or more oxidants (b2).
  • oxidative colorants are offered in the form of a two-component "kit” (multicomponent packaging unit), the first component being the oxidation dye precursors and an alkalizing agent (for example ammonia) and the second Components containing oxidizing agent.
  • alkalizing agent for example ammonia
  • oxidizing agents peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide are usually used.
  • oxidation dye precursors themselves are not colored, but the formation of the actual dyes takes place only in the course of application by the contact of the oxidation dye precursors with the oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide).
  • the developers used as oxidation dye precursors (such as p-phenylenediamine derivatives or p-aminophenol derivatives) are first oxidatively converted by hydrogen peroxide into a reactive intermediate, also quinone imine or quinonediimine, which then in an oxidative coupling reaction with the couplers for each Dye reacts.
  • agent (B) refers to the ready-to-use mixture, even if it was only obtained by mixing before the application of several preparations (B1), (B2) and so on.
  • oxidizing agent are persulfates, peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds in question.
  • oxidation dye precursors and oxidizing agents themselves are expediently prepared separately from each other and brought into contact only immediately before use.
  • agents (B) are preferred, which are characterized in that they are prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a Container a colorant (B1), which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor, and another container, an oxidizing agent preparation (B2) containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation (B2) preferably contains as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds, such as urea, melamine and sodium borate.
  • Such oxidizing agent preparations (B2) are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizing agent preparations.
  • Preferred formulations (B2) are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation (B2) - based on their weight - 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77.5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.
  • the amount of oxidizing agent in the ready-to-use agent (B) is 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 3 to 6% by weight (calculated as 100% H 2 O 2), in each case based on the ready-to-use agent (B).
  • the agent (B) is an agent for dyeing and, if appropriate, simultaneous whitening of keratinic fibers, which is preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 2 to 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent (B).
  • the oxidation dye can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the dye precursors.
  • a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the dye precursors.
  • Such catalysts are z.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations (B2) according to the invention additionally contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent for stabilizing the hydrogen peroxide.
  • stabilizers are in particular EDTA and EDDS, and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) or their sodium salts.
  • the agent (B) may further contain at least one peroxo salt.
  • Suitable peroxo salts are inorganic peroxo compounds, preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • peroxodisulfates in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the persulfates are each in an amount of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, on average (B).
  • agent (B) may contain alkalizing agent, while it has been found to be particularly preferred when agent (B) has a lower pH than agent (A). Corresponding processes according to the invention in which the agent (A) has a higher pH than the agent (B) are preferred because of the higher stabilities of the dyeings.
  • the ready-to-use colorants (B) may further contain additional active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives in order to improve the dyeing performance and to adjust further desired properties of the agents.
  • the ready-to-use colorants are preferably provided as a liquid preparation, and the surfactants are additionally additionally added to a surfactant, such surfactants being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application: They are preferably selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • the anionic surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant.
  • Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl-amidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, as coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionat and C 2 -C 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • the agents contain other, nonionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants are alkylene oxide addition products to fatty alcohols and fatty acids containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in proportions of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agents.
  • the ready-to-use colorants may contain other auxiliaries and additives.
  • the agent contains at least one thickener.
  • these thickeners there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • Suitable thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, Carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickeners, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite. Zwitterionic polymers may also be present in the agents according to the invention.
  • Preferred zwitterionic polymers are selected from the group of
  • Copolymers of dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and acrylic acid e.g. Polyquaternium-22,
  • Copolymers of 1-ethenyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium salts, 1-ethylen-1H-imidazole, 1-ethylen-2-pyrrolidinone and acrylic acid are examples of 1-ethenyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium salts, 1-ethylen-1H-imidazole, 1-ethylen-2-pyrrolidinone and acrylic acid.
  • Mixtures of the abovementioned preferred zwitterionic polymers (c) may also be present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the agents used in the process according to the invention additionally one or more fatty alcohols from the group of arachyl alcohol (Eisocan-1-ol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonealcohol ((5Z , 8Z, 1 1Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraene-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) Docos-13-en-1-ol) and brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol).
  • arachyl alcohol Esocan-1-ol
  • gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol)
  • arachidonealcohol ((5Z , 8Z, 1 1Z, 14Z) -eico
  • Particularly suitable agents contain one or more higher-chain alcohols of the abovementioned group in a total amount of from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 1.4 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.8 to 6 , 0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • an agent used in the process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains one or more fatty alcohols from the group of arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol ), Arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), behenyl (docosan-1-ol) , Erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -docos-13-en-1-ol) and brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 1, 4 to 8.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 8 to 6.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 2.0 to 4.0
  • Processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent (A) in step B) is allowed to act at a temperature of at least 40 ° C.

Abstract

Procédés de coloration oxydative de fibres kératiniques, un agent cosmétique (A) étant appliqué sur les fibres et amené à agir pendant une durée de 30 secondes à 30 minutes, un agent cosmétique (B) étant ensuite appliqué sur les fibres kératiniques qui subissent encore l'effet de l'agent (A), et les deux agents (A) et (B) étant amenés à agir pendant une durée de 5 à 45 minutes, les agents (A) et (B) étant alors éliminés par lavage. Ces procédés permettent d'obtenir des colorations multiton vives et naturelles présentant des tons plus ou moins lumineux ("highlights" ou "lowlights") lorsque l'agent (A) (a1) ne contient pas de précurseur de colorant d'oxydation, (a2) a un pH de 8,0 à 14,0, et l'agent (B) (b1) contient un ou plusieurs précurseurs de colorant d'oxydation, (b2) contient un ou plusieurs agents oxydants, et (b3) a un pH de 8,0 à 12,0.
PCT/EP2014/052015 2013-02-27 2014-02-03 Coloration multiton en une étape comprenant un agent dépourvu de colorant d'oxydation WO2014131578A1 (fr)

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Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10304923A1 (de) * 2003-02-07 2004-08-26 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Herstellung und Verwendung Polyamino- und/oder Polyammonium-Polysiloxancopolymere enthaltender Formulierungen

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10304923A1 (de) * 2003-02-07 2004-08-26 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Herstellung und Verwendung Polyamino- und/oder Polyammonium-Polysiloxancopolymere enthaltender Formulierungen

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