WO2014101083A1

WO2014101083A1 - Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, and the use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2014101083A1
Application number: PCT/CN2012/087792
Authority: WO
Inventors: Quan Sun; Liang Zhang; Wei LE; Yi Deng
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-12-28
Filing date: 2012-12-28
Publication date: 2014-07-03
Also published as: CN104869979A; CN104869979B

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkyl poly glucoside, at least one polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative, and/or at least one polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative, or a mixture thereof, and at least one ester oil.

Description

Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, and the use thereof FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, the hair and the nails. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials using said composition. Further more, the invention relates to the use of the said composition in cleansing the keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face.

BACKGROUD OF THE INVENTION

Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the face. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing products, for example, rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, and foaming creams, lotions and gels, are known.

Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated. However, they exhibit the

disadvantage of being heavy, of not foaming and of not conferring a feeling of freshness on application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic viewpoint. Moreover, products of this type require dry hands when applying on the skin. The process is thus inconvenient.

On the other hand, foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of the surfactants, which suspend the fatty residues on the face. They are effective and pleasant to use because they foam and because they are easy to remove. However the products of this type are not effective in terms of make-up removing, i.e., dissolving make-up pigments of make-up products.

Recently, cleansing products, in particular facial cleansing compositions, are expected to have not only dissovability of fatty residues and dispersing of make-up pigments, but also freshness, moisturizing, and pleasant feelings after application. Moreover, there exists a need of a simple and novel composition, especially cleansing composition for keratin materials which can be used by both dry hands and wet hands without influencing its efficacy.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant has discovered that these needs can be met by combining in a composition, at least one alkyl poly glucoside, at least one polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative, there organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates, and/or at least one polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative, their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates, or a mixture thereof, and at least one ester oil.

More specifically, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising: at least one alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I),

R-0-G_x< (I)

wherein R is a C6-C40, preferably C8-C34, alkyl group,

G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, x' is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside from 1 to 10, preferably from

1.4 to 3;

at least one polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative of formula (II), there organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates,

G'-(0-CH₂-CH₂)_n-0-Ri (II)

and/or at least one polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of formula III, their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates,

mixture thereof,

wherein formula (II) and (III): Ri, R₂, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C30, more preferably C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain which is optionally interrupted and/or optionally terminated at one or two of its ends by one or more divalent groups or combinations thereof selected from :

-N(R₅)-, -0-, -S-, -C(X)-, -S(0)₂- where R₅ is selected from a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or aminoalkyl radical and X represents a oxygen or sulfur atom, especially X represents oxygen ;

a saturated or unsaturated, fused or non- fused, aromatic or non-aromatic (hetero)cyclic radical optionally comprising one or more identical or non- identical heteroatoms and optionally substituted ;

the said hydrocarbon chain is optionally substituted especially by at least one hydroxy group;

G' represents an hydrogen atom or a group as defined for Ri, particularly at least one of the radical Ri or G' represents a hydrogen atom ; preferably G' represents a hydrogen atom ; the coefficients n, x, y and z, which are identical or different, each represent an integer especially equal to 1 and 500; preferably R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; and

at least one ester oil, preferably being a monoester of the formula (IV)

R₅COOR₆ (IV)

wherein R₅ represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, phenyl group, or a R₅'-0- group, wherein R₅' represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 8 carbon atoms, phenyl group;

R6 represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 8 carbon atoms, or phenyl group.

The mixture thereof makes it possible to obtain compositions that are comfortable and soft on application, having both dissovability of fatty residues and dispersing of make-up pigments, and freshness, moisturizing, and pleasant feelings after application. It also has the advantage to be used by both wet and dry hand without influencing its efficacy.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably a cleansing composition for the keratin materials, especially the skin, more particularly the face. The composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of gel, emulsion, foaming creams, or other types of fluid or solid form, preferably fluid form.

The mixture thereof maybe any type of composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular cleansing composition, and especially for the skin, such as facial cleanser, facial make up remover, body cleanser, or any other types of cleansing compostion.

Preferably, the keratin material according to the present invention is the skin. By "skin", we intend all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the skin of the face.

Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for cleansing the keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face, comprising a step of applying the composition as defined above to said keratin materials.

Another aspect of the present invention is a use of the composition in cleansing the keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face.

Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the reading of the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Alkyl poly glucoside:

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkyl poly glucoside of the formula (I):

R-0-G_x< (I)

Wherein R is a C6-40, preferably C8-34 alkyl group, G is a moiety derived from a reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and x' represents the average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside.

For a particular alkyl polysaccharide molecule, x' can only assume integral values. In any physical sample of alkyl poly glucosides, there will generally be molecules having different values of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can assume non-integral values. In the specification, the values of x' are to be understood to be average values. The polysaccharide hydrophilic portion of the alkyl poly glucoside contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1.4 to 3, saccharide units on the average. The saccharide unit maybe galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and/or galactosyl units, and preferably glucoside unit. Mixtures of these saccharide moieties may be used in the alkyl poly saccharide. Glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety, Other saccharide moieties will act similarly, but because glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety, the remaining disclosure will focus on the alkyl poly glucoside.

The hydrophilic group on the alkyl poly glucoside is an alkyl group, either saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, containing from about 6 to about 40 carbon atoms on average. Preferably the alkyl group is primarily a straight chain saturated Cs to C34 alkyl group. Useful alkyl poly glucosides of the current invention are also disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, Llenado, issued January 21, 1986, having a hydrophobic group containing from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide, e.g., a poly glycoside, hydrophilic group containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms can be used, e.g., glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties can be substituted for the glucosyl moieties (optionally the hydrophobic group is attached at the 2-, 3, 4-, etc positions thus giving a glucose or galatose as opposed to a glucoside or galactoside). The intersaccharide bonds can be, e.g., between the one position of the additional saccharide units and the 2-, 3-, 4-, and/or 6- positions on the preceding saccharide units.

Examples of alkyl poly glucoside compounds include but are not limited to: caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (and) lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside. Typically, the at least one alkyl poly glucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside, and more typically coco glucoside and decyl glucoside.According to some

embodiments, the preferred alkyl poly glucosides are available under the trade name, for example:

For coco-glucoside: Plantacare^® 818 UP sold by Cognis,

For decyl glucoside: Plantacare^® 2000 UP sold by Cognis,

For caprylyl/capryl glucoside: Oramix^™ CG 110 sold by Seppic,

For lauryl glucoside: Plantaren^® 1200 N UP sold by Cognis, For octyl glucoside: Rewosan sold by Rewo,

For sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate: Plantapon^® LGC SORB.

Preferably, mentions can be made of, for example, coco-glucoside such as products sold under the tradename Plantacare^® 818 UP by Cognis, and decyl glucoside such as the products sold under the tradename Plantacare^® 2000 UP by Cognis.

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight of the alkyl poly glucoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyethylene glycol/glyceryl and the derivatives., their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates:

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one Polyethylene glycol/glyceryl and the derivatives, their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates.

Polyethylene glycol and its derivative of the current invention is selected from the compounds of formula (II):

G'-(0-CH₂-CH₂)_n-0-Ri (II)

According to one embodiment of the invention, compounds of formula (II) bear a radical Ri which represents a linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon chain, more particularly C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, which is optionally interrupted and/or optionally terminated at one or two of its ends by one or more divalent groups or combinations thereof selected from -N(Rs)-, -0-, -S-, -C(O)-, -S(0)₂- where R5 is selected from a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl ; the said hydrocarbon chain is optionally substituted especially by at least one hydroxy group. Preferably the said hydrocarbon chain is linear, unsaturated (one or two double bounds), terminated by a carbonyl group at the extremity linked to the oxygen atom of the molecule, and optionally substituted by a hydro xyl group. More preferably Ri represents a group

(Ci-C₆)alkyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH=CH-(Ci-C₈)alkylene-C(0)- such as castor oil group:

«-hexyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH=CH-«-heptylene-C(0)-.

Another embodiment of the invention concerns compounds wherein Ri represent a linear saturated, terminated by a carbonyl group at the extremity linked to the oxygen atom of the molecule, and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. More preferably Ri represents a group (Ci-C₆)alkyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-(Ci-C₈)alkylene-C(0)- such as castor hydrogenated oil group : «-hexyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-«-heptylene-C(0)-.

According to another embodiment of the invention compound of formula (II) corresponds to an ester of polyethylene glycol. Preferably n is an integer equal to 40 and 300 more preferably equal to 50 and 100, such as 60.

The current invention also comprises the organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates of polyethylene glycol and the derivatives.

Mentions can be made to:

- polyethylene glycol PEG-60, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 60 with a theoretical mass of about 3577 g.mol^"1,

polyethylene glycol PEG-90, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 90 with a theoretical mass of about 4000 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG- 100, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 100 with a theoretical mass of about 4400 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG- 135, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 135 with a theoretical mass of about 6000 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG- 150, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 150 with a theoretical mass of about 6600 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG- 180, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 180 with a theoretical mass of about 7900 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG-200, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 200 with a theoretical mass of about 8800 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG-240, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 240 with a theoretical mass of about 10600 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG-350, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 350 with a theoretical mass of about 15400 g.mol^"1,

- polyethylene glycol PEG-454, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 454 with a theoretical mass of about 20 OOOg.moi^"1.

Preferably, the polyethylene glycol derivative is polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. According to a preferred embodiment, the current invention comprises a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated caster oil where the n represents averagely 60.

Suitable examples of the polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative is commercially available, for example, sold under the tradenames Cremophor^® RH 60 and Cremophor^® CO 60 by BASF, Eumulgin^® HRE 60 sold by Cognis, Emulsogen^® HCO 060 sold by Clariant, Croduret^™ 60 sold by Croda Eurpoe, Ltd., or Customulse HCO-60 sold by Custom Ingredients, Inc. Preferably mentions can be made of the polyethylene glycol derivative such as the products sold under the tradename Cremophor^® RH by BASF.

According to a variant polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of the current invention is selected from the compounds of formula (III):

According to some embodiments, R₂, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C30, more preferably C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain which is optionally interrupted and/or optionally terminated at one or two of its ends by one or more divalent groups or combinations thereof selected from:

-N(R₅)-, -0-, -S-, -C(X)-, -S(0)₂- where R5 is selected from a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or aminoalkyl radical and X represents a oxygen or sulfur atom, especially X represents oxygen ;

a saturated or unsaturated, fused or non-fused, aromatic or non-aromatic (hetero)cyclic radical optionally comprising one or more identical or non-identical heteroatoms and optionally substituted ;

the said hydrocarbon chain is optionally substituted especially by at least one hydroxy group; An embodiment of the invention concerns compounds of formula (II) or (IF) wherein R₂ represents a linear or branched C₁-C30 hydrocarbon chain, more particularly C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, which is optionally interrupted and/or optionally terminated at one or two of its ends by one or more divalent groups or combinations thereof selected from -N(R)-, -0-, -S-, -C(O)-, - S(0)₂- where R is selected from a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C4 alkyl ; the said hydrocarbon chain is optionally substituted especially by at least one hydroxy group. Preferably the said hydrocarbon chain is linear, unsaturated (one or two double bounds), terminated by a carbonyl group at the extremity linked to the oxygen atom of the molecule, and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. More preferably R₂ represents au group (Ci-C6)alkyl-

CH(OH)-CH₂-CH=CH-(Ci-C₈)alkylene-C(0)- such as castor oil group : n- hexyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH=CH-«-heptylene-C(0)-.

Another embodiment of the invention concerns compounds wherein R₂ represent a linear saturated, terminated by a carbonyl group at the extremity linked to the oxygen atom of the molecule, and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. More preferably R₂ represents a group (Ci-C₆)alkyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-(Ci-C₈)alkylene-C(0)- such as castor hydrogenated oil group : «-hexyl-CH(OH)-CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-«-heptylene-C(0)-. Even more preferably, R₂ is hydrogen, fatty acid derived from coconut oil, or fatty acid derived from palm kernel oil.

Preferably, R₃ and R4 represent a hydrogen atom, respectively.

The coefficients x, y and z, which are identical or different, each represent an integer especially equal to 1 and 500.

According to some embodiments, x + y + z preferably is an integer from 1 to 100, more preferably from 1 to 20, such as 7.

The current invention also comprises the organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates of polyethylene glyceryl and the derivatives.

In some embodiments, the current invention comprises a mixture of the compounds mentioned above.

The polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of the current invention is commercially available, such as products under the tradename Tegosoft^® GC sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Cetiol^® HE sold by Cognis, AEC PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate sold by A & E Connock, Acconon^® CO-7 sold by Abitec Corporation, or Cetiol^® HE sold by Cogins GmbH.

More preferably, mentions may be made of the products sold under the tradename Tegosoft GC by Evonik Goldchmidt.

The polyethylene glycol glyceryl and the derivatives, their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates is present in the current invention in an amount of from 2% to 30%, preferably from 4% to 25%, even preferably from 8% to 18%, comparing to the total weight of the composition of the current invention.

Ester oil:

According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one ester oil.

The term "ester oil" means an oil that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C), comprising at least one ester functional group. The at least one ester oil used herein is chosen, for example, from monoesters.

The ester oil may, for example, be chosen from the monoesters of formula (IV) RsCOORs (IV)

Examples of the ester oils that may be mentioned include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, triethyl hexanoin, diisostearyl maleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl

diisostearate, glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, ethylhexyl stearate, decaprylyl carbonate, dodecyl benzoate, tetradecyl benzoate, hexadecyl benzoate, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, suitable ester oils of the present invention are commercially available for example:

for Ci2-i5 alkyl benzoate, the products sold under the tradename benzoate Tegosoft^® TN by Evonik Gold Schmidt, Dub B1215 sold by Stearinerie Dubois;

for dicaprylyl carbonate, the products sold under the tradename carbonates Cetiol^® CC from Cognis;

for isopropyl myristate the products sold under the tradename Crodamol IPM-LQ-(MV) by Croda, or Dub IPM sold by Stearinerie Dubois;

for ethylhexyl stearate, the products sold under the tradename Cetiol^® 868 sold by Cognis.

According to some preferred embodiments, the current invention comprises C12-C15 alkyl benzoate such as the products sold under the tradename Tegosoft^® TN by Evonik Gold Schmidt, dicaprylyl carbonate such as the products sold under the tradename Cetiol^® CC from Cognis, or a mixture thereof.

The aforementioned at least one ester oil may be used alone or as a mixture of two or more types thereof. The aforementioned ester oil is used in an amount ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of the cleansing composition, and preferably ranging from 3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 7% to 10% by weight.

In addition, the composition of the invention can comprise one or more surfactants in addition to alkyl poly glucoside and polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative of formula (II),

G'-(0-CH₂-CH₂)_n-0-Ri (II)

polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of formula (III),

The total amount of surfactants (alkyl poly glucoside + polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative, or polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative, or mixture thereof + additional surfactants) preferably ranges from 2 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 35% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Use may be made, as other surfactant, of any surfactant commonly used in make-up-removing compositions. The surfactant can be chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, as additional surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of:

(1) among nonionic surfactants:

- oxyethylene/oxypropylene block polymers, such as the poloxamers and in particular poloxamer 184 and poloxamer 124 (CTFA name);

- sorbitan fatty acid esters and their oxyethylenated derivatives, such as the sorbitan

monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, the oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates (CTFA name: polysorbate) sold by ICI under the Tween names, in particular polysorbate 60 (Tween 60), polysorbate 65 (Tween 65), polysorbate 80 (Tween 80);

- derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides (mono-, di- and triglycerides) of caprylic acid and of capric acid having 6 or 8 ethylene oxide groups, such as that comprising 6 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name: PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides) sold under the name Softigen 767 by Sasol and that comprising 8 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name: PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides) sold under the name L.A.S. by Gattefosse;

- derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides (alkoxylated triglycerides) of vegetable origin, such as, for example, PEG- 10 olive glycerides, PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides, PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-3 oleyl ether for example products sold under the tradename BRIJ 03-LQ-(RB) by CRODA, or PEG-5-oleyl ether (oleth-5) for example the products sold under the tradename BRIJ 05-LQ-(MH) by CRODA.

(2) among anionic surfactants:

- alkyl sulphates and their salts, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the sodium laureth sulphate/magnesium laureth sulphate/sodium laureth-8 sulphate/magnesium laureth-8 sulphate mixture sold under the name of Texapon ASV by Henkel; the sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C_12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 PATE by Henkel; the ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C_12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by Henkel; the ammonium alkyl (C₁₂-C₁₄) ether (9 EO) sulphate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie;

(3) among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkyl ampho acetates, such as the N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold in saline aqueous solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone. NP by Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate); cocamides, such as the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: cocamide DEA).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular from oxyethylene/oxypropylene block polymers, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid having 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 3 or 5 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises, as other surfactant, at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of a mixture of glycerides of caprylic acid and of capric acid having 3 or 5 ethylene oxide groups. Mentions may be made of, for example, PEG-3 oleyl ether for example products sold under the tradename BRIJ 03-LQ-(RB) by CRODA, or PEG-5-oleyl ether (oleth-5) for example the products sold under the tradename BRIJ 05-LQ-(MH) by CRODA, or a mixture thereof. This combination makes it possible to obtain very good make-up-removing results with very good tolerance and good comfort on use.

The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise a monohydric C1 -C3 alcohol, in particular ethanol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises such an alcohol, the amount of alcohol is less than 3% and preferably less than 1% when a make-up remover for the eyes is involved.

The composition of the invention can comprise one or more polyols and in particular glycols. Mention may in particular be made, among the polyols which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and their mixtures. The amount of polyol(s) in the composition of the invention is preferably such that it does not confer a tacky nature on the final composition. This amount generally ranges from 0.05 to 25% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the compositions of the invention can comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field selected from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological active principles, fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents (EDTA), pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers, such as talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, soluble dyes, sunscreen agents and their mixtures.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

These adjuvants and their concentrations should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

Preferred active principles include anti-seborrheic and anti-microbial active principles which make it possible in particular to treat greasy skin.

This active principle can be chosen in particular from: β-lactam derivatives, quinolone derivatives, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline and its salts, erythromycin and its salts, amikacin and its salts, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (triclocarban), phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline and its salts, capreomycin and its salts, chlorhexidine and its salts, chlorotetracyline and its salts, oxytetracycline and its salts, clindamycin and its salts, ethambutol and its salts, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, pentamidine and its salts, gentamycin and its salts, kanamycin and its salts, lineomycin and its salts, methacycline and its salts, methenamine and its salts, minocycline and its salts, neomycin and its salts, netilmicin and its salts,

paromomycin and its salts, streptomycin and its salts, tobramycin and its salts, miconazole and its salts, amantadine salts, para-chloro-meta-xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, salicylic acid and its salts, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, 2,4,4'- trichloro-2'-hydroxydip- henyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine

hydrochloride, clotrimazole, oxtoxyglycerol, octanoylglycine, caprylylglycol, 10-hydroxy-2- decanoic acid, zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, niacinamide or vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP), and their mixtures.

Use may also be made, in the composition of the invention, as active principles, of any active principle commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as, for example, water- soluble or fat-soluble vitamins or provitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), vitamin B(panthenol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin Kl, β-carotene, and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters; steroids, such as DHEA and 7a-hydroxy-DHEA; moisturizing agents, such as glycerol, hyaluronic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) and its salts, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, trehalose, ectoin, ceramides or urea; keratolytic and anti-ageing agents, such as a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives;

enzymes and coenzymes and in particular coenzyme Q10; sunscreen agents; optical brighteners; slimming active principles, such as caffeine, theophylline or theobromine; anti-infiammatories, such as 18" -glycyrrhetinic acid and ursolic acid, and their mixtures.

Use may be made of a mixture of two or more of these active principles. The active principle or principles can, for example, be present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can constitute in particular foaming creams for topical application used in particular in the cosmetic field as products for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin (body or face, including eyes), scalp and/or hair. They can constitute more particularly a composition for cleansing the skin, in particular a face.

Another subject-matter of the invention can be a cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as products for cleaning and/or removing makeup from the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular from a face.

Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic process for cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular a face, wherein the composition of the invention is applied to the skin, to the scalp and/or to the hair, in particular the face, preferably in the presence of water and in that the foam foamed and the grime are removed by rinsing with water.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the above- described components with a conventional mixing device. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can advantageously be prepared by using, for at least one stage of the preparation process, a mixing device.

EXAMPLES

Example 1. Cleansing compositions

Cleansing compositions were prepared containing the following ingredients:

c Dicaprylyl carbonate (CETIOL^®

0 2.5 5

CC from BASF)

CI 2- 15 alkyl benzoate

c (TEGOSOFT^® TN from Evonik 1 3.5 7

Goldschmidt)

D Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

Procedure for preparation of said cleansing compositions:

Heat phase A and C to 80 °C, mixing phases A and C until transparent. Heat phase D to 80 °C, introduce mixture of phases A and C into phase D slowly, and then cooling down to 35 °C slowly. Finally introduce phase B slowly to the mixture until homogeneity.

The invention formulas 1 to 3 obtained as such are stable over time. The efficacy of the examples stays excellent when using them with either dry hands or wet hands.

Example 2: Comparative examples

Preparation of comparative formulas

Comparative formulas 1-3 were prepared containing the following ingredients in the same manner as that in Example 1.

D Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to

The comparative formulas 1 -3 are prepared using the methods same as the preparation of invention formulas 1 -3.

Evaluation of performances of the invention formulas 1 -3 and comparative formulas 1 -3 The performance of cleansing compositions of the invention formulas 1-3 and comparative formulas 1-3 are subject to evaluation method below:

Apply an amount of lipstick to the skin, wait for 5 minutes;

Apply 2 drops of invention examples 1-3, respectively, to the lipstick mark on the skin, finger massage for 20 rounds;

Rinse off the skin by water.

A group of 5 panellists are formed to evaluate the performances of the invention formulas 1-3, said performances include dissovability of fatty residues and dispersing of make-up pigments, and freshness, moisturizing, and pleasant feelings after application..

Scores from 1 to 5 are given by the panellists to each of the performances. Respectively:

dissovability of fatty residues and make-up pigments: the less the score is, less dissovability the example is;

freshness, moisturizing, and pleasant feelings after application: the higher the score is, the better the feelings after application.

The result is as follow. Invention formula Comparative formula

1 2 3 1 2 3

Dissolvability of

fatty residues and 2.7 2.6 4.4 1.5 2.4 2.1 make-up pigments

freshness,

moisturizing, and

j 4.2 2.8 1.8 2.2 2.2 pleasant feelings

after application

Based on the investigation, the invention formulas 1 -3 according to the present invention possess significantly better dissolvability of fatty residues and make-up pigments, as well as freshness, moisturizing and pleasant feelings after application, with comparison to the comparative formulas 1-3. Besides, comparing to the comparative formulas 1-3, it is much more convenient to use invention formulas 1-3, i.e., they can be used by both dry and wet hands without influencing the efficacy of the examples.

Claims

CLAIMS A cosmetic composition comprising: at least one alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I),wherein: R is a C6-C40, preferably C8-C34, alkyl group, G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, x' is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside from 1 to 10, preferably from

1.4 to 3;

G'-(0-CH₂-CH₂)_n-0-Ri (II)

and/or at least one polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of formula (III), their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates,

or a mixture thereof,

wherein formula (II) and (III):

Ri, R₂, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C30, more preferably C₈-C30 hydrocarbon chain which is optionally interrupted and/or optionally terminated at one or two of its ends by one or more divalent groups or combinations thereof selected from:

-N(R₅)-, -0-, -S-, -C(X)-, -S(0)₂- where R₅ is selected from a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or aminoalkyl radical and X represents a oxygen or sulfur atom, especially X represents oxygen;

a saturated or unsaturated, fused or non-fused, aromatic or non-aromatic (hetero)cyclic radical optionally comprising one or more identical or non-identical heteroatoms and optionally substituted;

the said hydrocarbon chain is optionally substituted especially by at least one hydroxy group; G' represents an hydrogen atom or a group as defined for Ri, particularly at least one of the radical R_\ or G' represents a hydrogen atom ; preferably G' represents a hydrogen atom ;

the coefficients n, x, y and z, which are identical or different, each represent an integer especially equal to 1 and 500; preferably R₃ and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; and

at least one ester oil of formula (IV)

RsCOORe (IV)

wherein:

R5 represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, phenyl group, or a R₅'-0- group,

wherein R₅' represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 8 carbon atoms, phenyl group; Rs represents a linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 8 carbon atoms, or phenyl group.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 is preferably a cleansing composition for the keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one alkyl poly glucoside is selected from the group consisting ofcoco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight of the alkyl poly glucoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least a polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative of formula (II), there organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates and/or at least one polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of formula (III), their organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates, is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol PEG-60, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 60 with a theoretical mass of about 3577 g.mol-1, polyethylene glycol PEG-90, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 90 with a theoretical mass of about 4000 g.mol-1 , polyethylene glycol PEG- 100, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 100 with a theoretical mass of about 4400 g.mol-1, polyethylene glycol PEG- 135, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 135 with a theoretical mass of about 6000 g.mol-1, polyethylene glycol PEG- 150, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 150 with a theoretical mass of about 6600 g.mol-1 , polyethylene glycol PEG- 180, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 180 with a theoretical mass of about 7900 g.mol-1 , polyethylene glycol PEG-200, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 200 with a theoretical mass of about 8800 g.mol-1 , polyethylene glycol PEG-240, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 240 with a theoretical mass of about 10600 g.mol-1, polyethylene glycol PEG-350, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 350 with a theoretical mass of about 15400 g.mol-1 , polyethylene glycol PEG-454, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 454 with a theoretical mass of about 20 OOOg.mol-1 or a mixture thereof, preferably polyethylene glycol PEG-60, containing an average of ethylene glycol groups of 60 with a theoretical mass of about 3577 g.mol-1 , PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or a mixture thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight, more preferably 8% to 10% by weight of the polyethylene glycol and/or its derivative of formula (II), and/or the polyethylene glyceryl and/or its derivative of formula (III), there organic or inorganic acid salts, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, and the solvates such as hydrates,, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the at least one ester oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, triethyl hexanoin, diisostearyl maleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, ethylhexyl stearate, decaprylyl carbonate, dodecyl benzoate, tetradecyl benzoate, hexadecyl benzoate, or a mixture thereof, preferably decaprylyl carbonate, dodecyl benzoate, tetradecyl benzoate, hexadecyl benzoate, or a mixture thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably 6% to 7% by weight of the ester oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises:

coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, or a mixture thereof;

PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or a mixture thereof; and decaprylyl carbonate, dodecyl benzoate, tetradecyl benzoate, hexadecyl benzoate, or a mixture thereof. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional surfactants choosing from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof, preferably nonionic surfactant, more preferably PEG-3 oleyl ether, PEG-5-oleyl ether, or a mixture thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims, further comprising one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field selected from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological active principles, fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents, pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers, such as talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, soluble dyes, sunscreen agents and their mixtures.

11. Cosmetic method for cleansing the keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face, comprising a step of applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.

12. Use of the cosmetic composition of any one of preceding claims in cleansing the keratin material, preferably the skin, more preferably the face.