WO2014062334A1 - Cosmetic compositions comprising wax dispersions - Google Patents
Cosmetic compositions comprising wax dispersions Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2014062334A1 WO2014062334A1 PCT/US2013/060338 US2013060338W WO2014062334A1 WO 2014062334 A1 WO2014062334 A1 WO 2014062334A1 US 2013060338 W US2013060338 W US 2013060338W WO 2014062334 A1 WO2014062334 A1 WO 2014062334A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- surfactant
- wax
- weight
- chosen
- amount
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 249
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 113
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title description 29
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 72
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 64
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 190
- -1 acyl glutamates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 107
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 94
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 61
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 239000002563 ionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 35
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 33
- 239000004816 latex Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- 229920000126 latex Polymers 0.000 claims description 33
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 28
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical class OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 125000005908 glyceryl ester group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N Sorbitan monopalmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M behentrimonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 5
- VAMFXQBUQXONLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-alpha-eicosene Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=C VAMFXQBUQXONLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 229950003429 sorbitan palmitate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 5
- FPKBRMRMNGYJLA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 2-hydroxyethyl-methyl-bis(2-octadecanoyloxyethyl)azanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC[N+](C)(CCO)CCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FPKBRMRMNGYJLA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940075506 behentrimonium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- WQMJXFAFCDSZKC-UHFFFAOYSA-M bis(2-hexadecanoyloxyethyl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)-methylazanium;methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC[N+](C)(CCO)CCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC WQMJXFAFCDSZKC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960002788 cetrimonium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940090933 dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940030620 distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000956 methoxy group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940079784 disodium stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 claims 3
- WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L disodium;(2s)-2-(octadecanoylamino)pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@H](C([O-])=O)CCC([O-])=O WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L 0.000 claims 3
- 229940045898 sodium stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 claims 3
- KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M sodium;(4s)-4-amino-5-octadecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M 0.000 claims 3
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 34
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 33
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 27
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 27
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 21
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 18
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 17
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 16
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 15
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 15
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 14
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 14
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 14
- 210000000720 eyelash Anatomy 0.000 description 13
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 12
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 12
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 11
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 11
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 11
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 11
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 11
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 10
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 10
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 10
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 10
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000007046 ethoxylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 9
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 9
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 9
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000004014 plasticizer Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 7
- 239000007983 Tris buffer Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 7
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminobenzoic acid Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
- 150000003863 ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 6
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol Natural products OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 6
- WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxybenzoic acid (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl) ester Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)CC(C)CC1OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 5
- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(e)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical group CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C\C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 description 5
- 125000004185 ester group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 5
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000006254 rheological additive Substances 0.000 description 5
- ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- UWNADWZGEHDQAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,5-dimethylhexane Chemical group CC(C)CCC(C)C UWNADWZGEHDQAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940064734 aminobenzoate Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000012216 bentonite Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 4
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCC OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 4
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N (2z)-2-benzylidene-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-3-one Chemical class CC1(C)C2CCC1(C)C(=O)\C2=C/C1=CC=CC=C1 OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N 0.000 description 3
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KXTAOXNYQGASTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-benzylidenepropanedioic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C(C(O)=O)=CC1=CC=CC=C1 KXTAOXNYQGASTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical group [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Disodium Chemical compound [Na][Na] QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- JIGUQPWFLRLWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acrylate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)C=C JIGUQPWFLRLWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isobutylhexyl Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)C SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000001242 acetic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 230000036760 body temperature Effects 0.000 description 3
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- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 3
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- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 3
- SFNALCNOMXIBKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol monododecyl ether Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCO SFNALCNOMXIBKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 description 3
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000002462 imidazolines Chemical class 0.000 description 3
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- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 235000016709 nutrition Nutrition 0.000 description 3
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- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229960001173 oxybenzone Drugs 0.000 description 3
- PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pent‐4‐en‐2‐one Natural products CC(=O)CC=C PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 3
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 3
- 150000003013 phosphoric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 125000005372 silanol group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000003021 water soluble solvent Substances 0.000 description 3
- HEOCBCNFKCOKBX-RELGSGGGSA-N (1s,2e,4r)-4,7,7-trimethyl-2-[(4-methylphenyl)methylidene]bicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-3-one Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)[C@]2(C)CC[C@H]\1C2(C)C HEOCBCNFKCOKBX-RELGSGGGSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
Definitions
- the present disclosure relates to compositions comprising film forming agents and wax dispersions, and optionally thermoreversible gelling polymers.
- the present disclosure also relates to methods of increasing the volume of keratinous fibers, and methods of improving the ease of removability of compositions.
- Consumer products such as cosmetics and personal care products, may employ ingredients that allow these products to form a film or coating on various substrates, such as keratinous substrates (e.g., hair and skin).
- keratinous substrates e.g., hair and skin.
- Inclusion of a film former in a cosmetic composition can improve various properties, such as, for example, shine, adhesion, and long wear.
- latex film formers in cosmetic and personal care products
- cosmetic and personal care products such as, for example, in mascara compositions, hair styling products, topical foundations, sunscreen compositions, and water-based nail enamels.
- U.S. Patent Application No. 13/341 ,875 discloses latex film formers for use in nail compositions. Latex and latex blends have been used to provide extended- wear properties of the product into which they are formulated.
- conventional washable mascara compositions may use latex film formers in combination with an oil-in-water emulsion.
- extended-wear mascara compositions comprising latex film forming agents are known, such as, for example, in U.S. Provisional Patent Application Nos. 61 /541 ,173; 61 /542,131 ; and 61 /542,136, all of which are incorporated herein in their entireties.
- cosmetic and personal care products that incorporate latex film formers such as extended-wear mascara compositions
- extended-wear mascara compositions typically demonstrate difficulty in removability from the keratinous substrates to which they are applied, which is at least in part due to the inclusion of the latex film former.
- latex film formers typically demonstrate difficulty in removability from the keratinous substrates to which they are applied, which is at least in part due to the inclusion of the latex film former.
- latex film formers typically demonstrate difficulty in removability from the keratinous substrates to which they are applied, which is at least in part due to the inclusion of the latex film former.
- latex film formers typically demonstrate difficulty in removability from the keratinous substrates to which they are applied, which is at least in part due to the inclusion of the latex film former.
- consumers are looking for cosmetic products which make it possible to obtain an increase in the perception of the volume
- compositions having a high solids content in order to contribute material to the keratinous fibers, and thus to obtain a makeup result in which volume or loading are more or less bestowed.
- compositions such as cosmetic compositions
- compositions comprising:
- a wax dispersion comprising:
- thermoreversible gelling polymer optionally, at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer.
- compositions comprising latex film formers, such as cosmetic compositions (e.g. mascara compositions, such as extended-wear mascara compositions) and/or personal care products, said methods comprising incorporating a wax dispersion and optionally a thermoreversible gelling polymer according to various embodiments of the disclosure into said compositions.
- cosmetic compositions e.g. mascara compositions, such as extended-wear mascara compositions
- personal care products said methods comprising incorporating a wax dispersion and optionally a thermoreversible gelling polymer according to various embodiments of the disclosure into said compositions.
- the disclosure relates to methods of increasing the volume of keratinous fibers, said methods comprising applying to said keratinous fibers a composition comprising at least one latex film former, at least one wax dispersion, and at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer.
- FIG. 1 shows optical microscopy views of wax dispersions comprising solid particles of beeswax at 10 microns, 20 microns, and 80 microns;
- FIG. 2 represents the difference in ease of removability among compositions comprising film former and 0% wax dispersion, 5% wax dispersion, or 10% wax dispersion, having a particle size of 10 microns, 20 microns, or 80 microns.
- FIG. 3 shows a graph representing the difference in ease of removability among compositions comprising (i) a film former; (ii) 0% thermoreversible gelling polymer or 0.67% thermoreversible gelling polymer; and (iii) 0% wax dispersion or 10% wax dispersion, and having a particle size of 10 microns, 20 microns, or 80 microns;
- FIG. 4 shows a graph representing the percent increase in volume among compositions comprising (i) a film former; (ii) 0% thermoreversible gelling polymer or 0.67% thermoreversible gelling polymer; and (iii) 0% wax dispersion or 10% wax dispersion, and having a particle size of 10 microns, 20 microns, or 80 microns;
- FIG. 5 shows a graph representing an increase in the removability of compositions comprising (i) a film former; (ii) 0.5% thermoreversible gelling polymer; and (iii) 0% wax dispersion, 5% wax dispersion, 10% wax dispersion, or 17% wax dispersion, and having a particle size of 10 microns; and
- FIG. 6 shows a graph representing the percent increase in volume among compositions comprising (i) a film former; (ii) 0.5% thermoreversible gelling polymer; and (iii) 0% wax dispersion, 5% wax dispersion, 10% wax dispersion, or 17% wax dispersion, and having a particle size of 10 microns.
- compositions e.g. cosmetic compositions and/or personal care products, comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer.
- the composition is a mascara composition, such as an extended-wear mascara composition.
- the cosmetic compositions are aqueous.
- the cosmetic composition comprising the at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer exhibits an increased ease of removability relative to similar compositions that do not comprise the at least one wax dispersion, although it should be noted that in certain exemplary embodiments, a greater or lesser degree of increased ease of removability may be exhibited, and in further embodiments, increased ease of removability may not be exhibited.
- cosmetic compositions comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer can impart an increased volume to the keratinous fibers to which it is applied, such as the hair and eyelashes.
- eyelashes to which a mascara composition comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer according to embodiments of the disclosure may have a greater volume, although it should be noted that in certain exemplary embodiments, a greater or lesser degree of increased volume may be exhibited, and in further embodiments, increased volume may not be exhibited.
- the cosmetic compositions are chosen from aqueous, extended-wear compositions, e.g. extended-wear mascara, comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer.
- extended-wear it is meant compositions that typically do not need reapplication during the day, once a consumer applies the composition initially, such as, for example, over a period of time of about 24 hours or more, such as from about 12-16 hours.
- the aqueous, extended-wear mascara compositions may be water-proof and/or smudge-proof, although in at least certain embodiments, the mascara composition may not be one or both of water-proof and/or smudge-proof.
- the composition comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer exhibits reduced or minimized stickiness or tackiness that is otherwise generally attributed to the use of waxes in cosmetic compositions, such as, for example, as found in traditional mascara compositions comprising emulsions of water and traditional waxes.
- reduced or minimized stickiness or tackiness may not be observed.
- film former means an agent or polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a substantially continuous film that adheres to a support, and especially to keratin materials.
- film-forming agents that may be used, mention may be made of, for example, latex film formers.
- Exemplary and non-limiting latex film formers useful in various embodiments may be chosen from, for example, acrylate copolymers, styrene/acrylate copolymers, acrylamide/acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- copolymers may be chosen from copolymers comprising two or more monomers chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their simple esters, for example, lower alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, and ethylhexyl esters.
- acrylate copolymers may be chosen from ammonium acrylates
- copolymers ethyl acrylates copolymers, acrylates/ethylhexylacrylate copolymers, acrylates/octylacrylates copolymers, alkyl(meth)acrylates copolymers, acrylates/C-i 2 -C 2 2 alkylmethacrylate copolymers, ethylacrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer, and t-butyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer.
- Exemplary commercial acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, ALLIANZTM OPT sold by Ashland Specialty Ingredients; COVACRYL A15 and COVACRYL E14 sold by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies LCW; DAITOSOL 4000 SJT, DAITOSOL 5000 AD, DAITOSOL 5000 SJ, KOBOGUARD ® 50A, and KOBOGUARD ® 50N sold by Kobo Products, Inc.;
- DERMACRYL ® AQF YODOSOL 32A707, YODOSOL GH15, YODOSOL GH32, YODOSOL GH33, YODOSOL GH34, YODOSOL GH35, YODOSOL GH800, and YODOSOL GH810 sold by AkzoNobel; LUVIFLEX ® SOFT, LUVIMER ® 36D, and LUVIMER ® 100P sold by BASF; and NEOCRYL ® XK-90 sold by Neoresins, Inc.
- styrene/acrylate copolymers may be chosen from styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymers, such as SYNTRAN ® 5760 sold by Interpolymer Corporation.
- SYNTRAN ® 5760 sold by Interpolymer Corporation.
- Other non-limiting examples of commercially available styrene/acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, DAITOSOL 5000 STY sold by Kobo Products, Inc. ;
- JONCRYL ® 77 sold by BASF
- NEOCRYL ® BT-62 sold by Neoresins, Inc.
- RHOPLEXTM P-376 and UCARTM DL 432S sold by Dow Chemical Company
- YODOSOL GH41 and YODOSOL GH840 sold by AkzoNobel.
- acrylamide/acrylate copolymers may be chosen from acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/t-butyl acrylamide copolymer,
- acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer
- octylacrylamide/acrylates/methacrylates copolymer exemplary commercial acrylamide/acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to AMPHOMER ® LV-71 and DERMACRYL ® 79 sold by AkzoNobel and
- polyurethanes may be chosen from polyurethane-32, polyurethane-34, and polyurethane-35.
- Exemplary commercial polyurethanes include, but are not limited to, products sold by Bayer under the trade name BAYCUSAN ® , such as BAYCUSAN ® C1000, BAYCUSAN ® C1001 , BAYCUSAN ® C1003, and BAYCUSAN ® C1004.
- the latex film former may be chosen from blends comprising a combination of latex film formers, including, for example, a blend of any of the above-mentioned film formers.
- a latex film forming blend useful according to the disclosure may comprise (1 ) at least one random styrene acrylate copolymer or derivatives thereof, and at least one acrylate copolymer or derivatives thereof, or (2) at least two random styrene acrylate copolymers or derivatives thereof.
- the at least one latex film former may be chosen from those having a glass transition temperature (Tg) ranging from about -15°C to about 90 °C, such as from about 0°C to about 50 °C.
- Tg glass transition temperature
- the at least one latex film former may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount, or a combined amount when more than one latex film former is used, ranging up to about 90% by weight, such as up to about 70%, up to about 50%, up to about 40%, up to about 30%, up to about 20%, up to about 15%, or up to about 10%.
- the at least one latex film former is present in the composition in an amount of from about 5% to about 50%, about 10% to about 30%, or about 15% to about 20%, such as about 15%, about 16%, about 17%, about 18%, about 19%, or about 20%.
- the compositions may, in at least certain exemplary embodiments, optionally further comprise at least one coalescent and/or plasticizer.
- a coalescent agent promotes the coalescence of polymer particles in an aqueous dispersion
- inclusion of a plasticizer makes it possible to plasticize a polymer in an aqueous dispersion.
- Any coalescent and/or plasticizer may be used, and one of skill in the art will be able to choose an appropriate coalescent and/or plasticizer with little or no routine experimentation based on, for example, the type of cosmetic composition being formulated and the desired properties thereof.
- Optional coalescents and/or plasticizers useful according to various exemplary embodiments of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 6,372,201 .
- optional plasticizers may be chosen from tributyl citrate, texanol ester alcohol, diisobutyl adipate, the ester of tertbutyl acid and 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-1 ,3-diol, diethyl adipate, diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, butyl 2-ethylhexyl phthalate, dimethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, ethyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
- optional coalescents may be chosen from propylene glycol n-butyl ether, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dimethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, propylene glycol propyl ether, methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, isopropyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.
- Exemplary wax dispersions useful according to various embodiments of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, aqueous wax dispersions comprising solid particles of at least one wax, a surfactant, and water.
- the wax dispersion useful according to the present disclosure can be prepared with a surfactant mixture comprising a combination of nonionic and ionic surfactants, and following an emulsification process.
- a surfactant mixture comprising a combination of nonionic and ionic surfactants, and following an emulsification process.
- an amphoteric surfactant may optionally also be used.
- the wax dispersion according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may be employed in an amount ranging up to about 90% by weight, such as up to about 80% by weight, up to about 60% by weight, up to about 40% by weight, up to about 30% by weight, up to about 25% by weight, up to about 20% by weight, up to about 15% by weight, up to about 10% by weight, or up to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the wax dispersion may be present in the composition in an amount of about 10%.
- the amount of solid wax particles present in the wax dispersion may range from about 10-60%, such as about 15-50%, about 20-45%, or about 30-40%, by weight, relative to the weight of the wax dispersion.
- the solid wax particles may be present in an amount of about 10%, about 15%, about 20%, about 25%, about 30%, about 35%, about 40%, about 45%, or about 50%, by weight, based on the total weight of the wax dispersion, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the wax dispersion may be employed in a composition such that the amount of the at least one wax comprising the solid wax particles of the wax dispersion ranges from about 1 % to about 20% by weight, such as from about 1 .5% to about 10% by weight, about 2% to about 8% by weight, or from about 2% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the solid wax particles of the present disclosure may be chosen from particles of natural and synthetic waxes.
- Natural waxes may include, for example, one or a combination of animal, vegetable/plant, mineral, or petroleum derived waxes. They are typically esters of fatty acids and long chain alcohols. Wax esters are derived from a variety of carboxylic acids and a variety of fatty alcohols.
- the waxes comprising the solid wax particle of the present disclosure may also be known as solid lipids.
- waxes or solid lipids include C20-40 di- and triglycerides, including those which contain unsaturated fatty acids, C20-40 fatty alcohols, C20-40 fatty amines and their compounds, and sterols.
- HEST ® 2T-5E- 4S Ditrimethylolpropane tetralaurate, Koster BK-34, fluoro polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, blend of dilauryl adipate and ditetradecyl adipate, Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, Myrica pubescens Wax, PEG-70 mango glycerides, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, and hydrogenated coco-glycerides.
- the wax may, in various embodiments, advantageously be chosen from beeswax, commercially available from various suppliers, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 14 L 48, VP/eicosene copolymer, commercially available from the supplier ISP under the tradenames, Antaron ® V 220 or Ganex ® V 220F, and ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, commercially available from the supplier Heterene under the tradename, HEST ® 2T-4S.
- Suitable waxes include silsesquioxane resin waxes such as C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, commercially available as DOW CORNING SW- 8005 C30 Resin Wax, from the company Dow Corning and such as those described in WO2005/100444.
- the wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be chosen from soft waxes and from hard waxes.
- Soft waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of below about 70 °C, and preferably, a melting point of below about 60 °C.
- Hard waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of equal to or greater than about 70 °C, and preferably, a melting point of equal to or greater than about 60 °C.
- soft waxes include, but are not limited to, paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, ozokerite, synthetic beeswax, beeswax, candelilla wax, PVP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated jojoba wax, palm butter, sumac wax, polyglyceryl beeswax, tricontanyl/PVP, siliconyl beeswax, stearyl stearate, ceresin wax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters (e.g., phytowax olive 14 L 48), hydrogenated stearyl olive esters (e.g., phytowax olive 18 L 57), Koster K82P, orange peel wax, pentaerythritol distearate, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, silicone resin wax, polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate,
- hard waxes include, but are not limited to, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated castor oil, wax AC 540, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor wax, wax AC 400, rice bran wax, C 2 o-4o alkyl stearate, alcohol polyethylene wax, octanedioate, sunflower seed wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, benehyl fumarate, synthetic wax, betsawax RX- 13750, phytowax ricin 22 L 73, and vegetable wax.
- the solid wax particles of the wax dispersions may, in various embodiments, comprise a particle size ranging from equal to or greater than about 1 micron up to about 80 microns, such as up to about 60 microns, up to about 50 microns, up to about 25 microns, up to about 20 microns, up to about 17.5 microns, up to about 15 microns, up to about 12.5 microns, up to about 1 0 microns, up to about 7.5 microns, up to about 5 microns, or up to about 2.5 microns, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the solid wax particles of the wax dispersion comprise a particle size of about 20 microns.
- the solid wax particles of the dispersion comprise a particle size of about 15 microns. In yet a further exemplary embodiment, the solid wax particles of the dispersion comprise a particle size of about 10 microns. In yet a further exemplary embodiment, the solid wax particles of the dispersion comprise a particle size of about 7.5 microns.
- particle size refers to the diameter of the solid wax particle, and is meant to indicate an average particle diameter of all solid wax particles in the dispersion.
- the particle size refers to the largest diameter of the particles, i.e., the diameter in the dimension having the largest diameter.
- the shape of the solid wax particles in various exemplary wax dispersions may be any shape, such as, for example, spherical or ellipsoidal or oval.
- the terms “spherical” or “ellipsoidal” or “oval” as used herein also mean that the solid wax particle has a uniform and substantially spherical or ellipsoidal or oval shape.
- the term "substantially” as used in the context of the shape of a spherical particle means that the particle is of substantially isotropic shape, i.e., it has a relatively regular morphology. It should be noted, however, that a line of symmetry is not required when the solid wax particle has a spherical shape.
- the solid wax particles of the wax dispersions may optionally have surface texturing, such as lines or indentations or protuberances that are relatively small in scale when compared to the overall size of the solid wax particle, and still be considered by those of skill in the art to be substantially spherical or ellipsoidal or oval.
- the solid wax particles in the wax dispersions according to the present disclosure may, in at least certain embodiments, be substantially homogeneous with respect to their shape and/or particle size distribution, although it is not required.
- the term "substantially” as used in this context means that about 50% or more of the solid wax particles in an aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are of the same spherical, ellipsoidal, or oval shape and of the same particle size distribution.
- the particle size and shape of the solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be evaluated by any known method, such as those described in US Patent Application Number 2006/0292095, for example, laser diffraction, ultrasonic extinction (acoustic spectroscopy), photo cross-correlation spectroscopy, and image analysis (microscopy).
- the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure comprises, in at least certain exemplary embodiments, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant.
- the surfactant mixture may also comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
- nonionic surfactants having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from at least 5, such as from about 5 to about 20, or such as from about 5 to about 15, can be chosen in various exemplary embodiments.
- HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
- Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants are disclosed in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's “Functional Materials,” North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.
- nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the alkyl chain is in the C 12 -C50 range, such as in the Ci 6 -C 40 range, or in the C 24 -C 40 range, and having from about 1 to about 1 10 alkoxy groups.
- the alkoxy groups are chosen from C 2 -C 6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being chosen in certain embodiments.
- the alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated.
- the alkoxylated alcohols are chosen in at least certain embodiments, such as ethoxylated alcohols and propoxylated alcohols.
- the alkoxylated alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof.
- the alkoxylated alcohols may also be used in mixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.
- ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10),
- Brij nonionic surfactants from Uniqema, Wilmington, DE.
- Brij ® is the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij ® 72 (i.e., steareth-2) and Brij ® 76 (i.e., steareth-10).
- alkyl glycosides which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C-8-C30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers.
- S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C-8-C30 alkyl group.
- long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.
- surfactants examples include alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a C 8 -C 2 o alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.
- Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG ® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG ® 600CS and 625 CS), all the above-identified polyglucosides APG ® are available from Cognis, Ambler, PA.
- sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
- nonionic surfactants suitable for use include glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters and their derivatives, including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, such as glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
- glyceryl monoesters such as glyceryl monoesters
- Glyceryl ester derivatives include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters such as PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 glyceryl oleate, and mixtures thereof.
- glyceryl esters such as PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 glyceryl oleate, and mixtures thereof.
- sorbitan esters are also useful herein as nonionic surfactants.
- sorbitan esters for example, sorbitan esters of Ci 6 -C 22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, may be chosen.
- these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters.
- suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN ® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel ® 83 from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del.), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL ® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN ® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g., SPAN ® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN ® 65), sorbitan palmitate (e.g., SPAN ® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan palimtate and/or sorbitan sesquioleate may be chosen in at least certain exemplary embodiments
- alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides wherein the alkoxy groups is chosen from C 2 - C 6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being chosen in certain particular embodiments.
- alkoxy groups is chosen from C 2 - C 6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being chosen in certain particular embodiments.
- ethoxylated materials include TWEEN ® (ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of d 2 to Ci 8 fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).
- nonionic surfactants may be chosen from those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride with a C 4 to C 3 e carbon chain, e.g. a C 12 to Ci 8 carbon chain or a Ci 6 to Ci 8 carbon chain, derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8.
- Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.
- Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB is optionally greater than or equal to 8.
- the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, such as from 10-20 moles.
- the nonionic surfactants of the present disclosure are chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters, PEG- 30 glyceryl stearate and sorbitan esters such as sorbitan palmitate.
- the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from polysiloxane emulsifying polymers, including, by way of example only, ABIL CARE 85, ABIL EM 90, and ABIL EM 97.
- the nonionic surfactant will typically be employed in an amount of from about 60% to about 95% by weight, or from about 65% to about 90% by weight, or from about 70% to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.
- the ionic surfactants typically contain a lipophilic hydrocarbon group and a polar functional hydrophilic group.
- anionic surfactants which may be used alone or as mixtures, may be mentioned: mention may be made especially of the salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl
- esters of C 6 -C 24 alkyl and of polyglycoside-carboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, polyalkyl glycoside tartrates and polyalkyl glycoside sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
- anionic surfactants that may also be used, mention may also be made of acyl lactylates in which the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
- alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof, and also polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkylether-carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 24 )alkyl(C6-C 24 )arylethercarboxylic acids and polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
- polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkylether-carboxylic acids polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 24 )alkyl(C6-C 24 )arylethercarboxylic acids
- polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof in particular
- anionic surfactants which may be chosen, mention may also be made of the salts, in particular of sodium, of magnesium or of ammonium, of alkyl sulfates; of alkyl ether sulfates, for instance sodium lauryl ether sulfate, e.g. containing 2 or 3 mol of ethylene oxide; of acyl glutamates, for instance, disodium stearoyi glutamate and sodium stearoyi glutamate; of alkyl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, the alkyl or acyl groups generally containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
- cationic surfactants mention may be made of:
- alkylpyridinium salts ammonium salts of imidazoline, diquaternary ammonium salts, and ammonium salts containing at least one ester function;
- radicals R1 to R4 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; the aliphatic radicals may optionally comprise heteroatoms (O, N, S or halogens) and may optionally, be substituted, and
- X- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 - C 6 ) alkyl sulphates, or alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates.
- the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from C-
- R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut
- R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C-
- R7 represents a C C 4 alkyl radical
- R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C-
- X- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C 2 -
- R5 and R6 may denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as, for example, fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 denotes methyl and R8 denotes hydrogen.
- a product is, for example, Quaternium- 27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names Rewoquat(R) W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco,
- R9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms
- R10, R1 1 , R12, R13 and R14 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
- X- is an anion chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.
- Such diquaternary ammonium salts in particular comprise propanetallowdiammonium dichloride;
- R15 is chosen from C-
- R16 is chosen from the radical R19— CO— , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 -C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R20, a hydrogen atom;
- R18 is chosen from the radical R21— CO, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 -C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R22, a hydrogen atom;
- R17, R19 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
- r, n and p which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
- x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
- X- is a simple or complex organic or mineral anion
- R16 denotes R20 and that when z is 0, then R18 denotes R22.
- the alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
- R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
- the sum x+y+z may range from 1 to 10.
- R16 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R20, it may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R18 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R22, it may contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R17, R19 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11 -C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
- x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
- y is equal to 1 .
- r, n and p which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.
- the anion X- may be a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or a C C 4 alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate.
- the anion X- may also represent methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
- the surfactants may be, for example, the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl- dimethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, of triacyloxy- ethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
- the acyl radicals may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a plant oil, for instance palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
- Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat ® by the company Stepan, NoxamiumTM by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat ® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
- quaternary ammonium salts and in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, behenylamidopropyl- 2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride.
- esterquats which are quaternary ammonium compounds having fatty acid chains containing ester linkages.
- esterquats chosen from dibehenoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, ditallowoyl PG-dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- the presence of an ionic surfactant reduces or minimizes the aggregation of the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure.
- the surfactant mixture comprising at least one ionic surfactant may act as a dispersant to facilitate the uniform dispersion of the solid wax particles and to enhance the stabilization of the dispersion itself.
- the surfactant mixture contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one anionic surfactant.
- the surfactant mixture contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic surfactant.
- the surfactant mixture contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one anionic surfactant, wherein the surfactant mixture is free of cationic surfactants.
- the surfactant mixture contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the surfactant mixture is free of anionic surfactants.
- the at least one ionic surfactant may be employed in an amount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, or from about 5% to 30% by weight, or from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.
- the surfactant mixture that is, the combined amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant and the at least one ionic surfactant, is present in the aqueous dispersion in an amount of from about 1 .0% to about 5% by weight, such as from about 1 .5% to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 1 .5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
- the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure is free of amphoteric surfactants. However, in other exemplary embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be added.
- Amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water- soluble anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C2o)alkyl-amido-(C6-C 8 )-alkyl-betaines or (C 8 -C2o)alkyl-amido-(C 6 -C 8 )- alkylsulfobetaines; and mixtures thereof.
- aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22
- amphocarboxyglycinate compounds and amphocarboxypropionate compounds in particular, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
- amphoteric surfactants that may be used are (C 8 - C 2 o)alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylamido(C 6 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.
- the wax dispersion may optionally further comprise additional components such as solvents (including water), oils, emulsifying polymers, sunscreen agents, pigments/dyes/colorants, silicas, talc, clays, perfumes, and any other component typically found in cosmetic or personal care compositions, such as mascara compositions, or dispersions intended for use in such compositions.
- additional ingredients may optionally be added during the time of making the wax dispersion in order to either improve/modify the physical properties of the solid wax particles and/or to allow the solid wax particles to provide other benefits in addition to the benefits obtained from waxes.
- Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, mineral oils (paraffin); plant oils and natural oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil, argan oil, tocopherol or vitamin E, shea butter oil, jojoba oil); synthetic oils, for instance perhydrosqualene, fatty acids or fatty esters (for instance the C 12 -C15 alkyl benzoate sold under the trade name Finsolv ® TN, commercially available from Innospec or Tegosoft ® TN, commercially available from Evonik Goldschmidt, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate and triglycerides, including capric/caprylic acid triglycerides), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; or fluoro oils, and polyalkylenes.
- mineral oils paraffin
- plant oils and natural oils sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil,
- oils include for example: silicone oils, for instance volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.
- PDMS volatile or nonvol
- suitable oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon- based oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C 8 to d 6 alkanes such as C 8 to Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of IsoparTM or Permethyl ® , and their mixtures.
- volatile hydrocarbon- based oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C 8 to d 6 alkanes such as C 8 to Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of IsoparTM or Permethyl ® , and their mixtures.
- esters such as those of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, and also including, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Purcellin oil ® (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C- 12 to C-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, and pentaerythritol esters, for instance isoste
- the oils may also be chosen from silicones.
- Suitable silicones include, but are not limited to, the silicone oils described above and other silicones such as nonvolatile silicones such as dimethicone fluids having viscosity values of equal to or greater than 300 est, and pentaphenyldimethicone, also known as trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning® 555.
- the wax dispersion according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may also comprise an emulsifying polymer, e.g. an amphiphilic polymer.
- polyoxyethylenated silicone surfactants such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,120,778;
- non-crosslinked hydrophobic AMPSs such as those described in EP 1 466 588;
- amphiphilic acrylic polymers such as PEMULEN ® TR-1 or TR-2 or equivalent;
- heat-gelling polymers such as those described in patent applications US 2004/0214913, US 2003/0147832 and US 2002/0198328 and FR2 856 923.
- the emulsifying polymer(s) may be introduced in a content ranging from 0.1 percent to 15 percent by weight, or even from 0.1 percent to 10 percent by weight and more particularly from 0.1 percent to 5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
- the wax dispersion according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may further comprise one or more sunscreen agents.
- Representative sunscreen agents may be chosen from organic and inorganic sunscreens or UV filters.
- the organic sunscreen agents are chosen from water-soluble organic screening agents, fat-soluble organic screening agents or agents which are insoluble in the solvents presently included in suntan products, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic sunscreen agents are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; alpha -alkylstyrene-derived dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; merocyanin derivatives; and mixtures thereof.
- PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
- complementary organic photoprotective agents include those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
- Cinnamic Derivatives ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol ® MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan ® E 1000" by Symrise, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
- Dibenzoylmethane derivatives butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane marketed especially under the trademark "Parsol ® 1789" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
- Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol ® 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA marketed under the trademark "Uvinul ® P25” by BASF.
- Salicylic derivatives homosalate marketed under the trademark "Eusolex ® HMS” by Merck KGaA /EMD Chemicals, Inc. and EMD Chemicals Inc, ethylhexyl salicylate marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan ® OS” by Symrise, dipropylene glycol salicylate marketed under the trademark “Dipsal " by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., TEA salicylate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan ® TS” by Symrise.
- Diphenylacrylate derivatives octocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark “Uvinul ® N539T” by BASF, etocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark “Uvinul ® N35” by BASF.
- Benzophenone derivatives benzophenone-1 marketed under the trademark "Uvinul ® 400" by BASF, benzophenone-2 marketed under the trademark “Uvinul ® D50” by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone marketed under the trademark “Uvinul ® M40” by BASF, benzophenone-4 marketed under the trademark “Uvinul ® MS40” by BASF, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6 marketed under the trademark "HelisorbTM 1 1 " by Norquay, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n- hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate marketed under the trademark "Uvinul ® A+” by BASF.
- Benzylidenecamphor derivatives 3-benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl ® SD” by Chimex, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor marketed under the trademark “Eusolex ® 6300” by Merck, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl ® SL” by Chimex, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl ® SO” by Chimex, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl ® SX” by Chimex, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl ® SW” by Chimex.
- Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex ® 232" by Merck and EMD INC., disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan ® AP” by Symrise.
- Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis(benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb ® M" by BASF.
- Triazine derivatives bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark "Tinosorb ® S” by BASF, ethylhexyl triazone marketed in particular under the trademark “Uvinul T150” by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb ® HEB” by 3V Group, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s- triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltri-siloxane)-s-triazine, 2,4- bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-buty
- Anthranilic derivatives menthyl anthranilate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan ® MA" by Symrise.
- Imidazoline derivatives ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
- Benzalmalonate derivatives polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol ® SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
- Benzoxazole derivatives 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4- phenyl)imino]-6-(2-et- hylhexyl)imino-1 ,3,5-triazine marketed under the trademark Uvasorb ® K 2A by Sigma 3V, and mixtures thereof.
- Optional organic sunscreen agents may be chosen from among: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl
- inorganic sunscreen agents or UV filters include, but are not limited to, metal oxide pigments which may be chosen from zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
- the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
- the coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or of aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
- compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or of aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
- the sunscreen agents that may be comprise the solid wax particle are oil-soluble (or fat-soluble) and may be encapsulated within low melting point temperature materials.
- the sunscreen agents useful according to the disclosure may be employed in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 40 % by weight, such as from about 0.5 % to about 30 % by weight, such as from about 1 % to about 25 % by weight, based on the total weight of the solid wax particle comprising the aqueous dispersion.
- the pigments/dyes/colorants of the wax dispersion and/or cosmetic composition according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may optionally be soluble in oil and include, but are not limited to, permanent, semi-permanent and/or temporary dyes.
- Representative and non-limiting pigments include white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments.
- Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue.
- Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal, carmine, and barium.
- the direct dyes and oxidation dyes which may be used according to the disclosure are those dyes employed to color hair and textile fabrics.
- Representative oxidation dyes include, but are not limited to para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
- Representative direct dyes include, but are not limited to, azo, methane, carbonyl, azine, nitro (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, porphyrin, phthalocyanin direct dyes, and natural direct dyes.
- the wax dispersion according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may further comprise sub-micron-sized to micron-sized particles of silica, talc, and/or clays, which include, but are not limited to, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, laponite, smectite, kaolin, and their mixtures.
- silica talc
- clays include, but are not limited to, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, laponite, smectite, kaolin, and their mixtures.
- These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazo lines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkylarylsulphonates, amine oxides and their mixtures.
- quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone ® 3, Bentone ® 38 or Bentone ® 38V by Rheox, Tixogel ® VP by United Catalyst or Claytone ® 34, Claytone ® 40 or Claytone ® XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone ® 27 by Rheox, Tixogel ® LG by United Catalyst or Claytone ® AF or Claytone ® APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium- 1 8/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Claytone ® HT or Claytone ® PS by Southern Clay.
- Suitable silicas may include pyrogenic silicas obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which exhibit a large number of silanol groups at their surfaces.
- the hydrophobic groups can be: [000175] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are also named "Silica silylate.”
- the pyrogenic silica may exhibit a particle size that is sub-micron sized or micron sized, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
- the silica, talc, and/or clays may be present in an amount of from about 0.01 % to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous dispersion.
- the wax dispersion according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may further comprise perfumes or fragrances to aid in the fragrance of the product and provide a time-release effect.
- the perfume can have a dual effect by not only providing a pleasant fragrance but also to provide shine to a treated substrate.
- the perfumes may be present in an amount of from about 0.01 % to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous dispersion.
- the wax dispersion may, according to at least certain exemplary embodiments, be obtained by means of a process comprising at least the following steps (the Wax Dispersion Protocol), although any process which produces a wax dispersion as described herein is contemplated to be within the scope of the disclosure:
- [000182] emulsifying a mixture containing at least one wax having a melting point or melting temperature greater than 35 °C, a surfactant mixture comprising a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant, and water at an emulsification temperature above the melting point of the at least one wax. If two or more waxes are used, the emulsification temperature should be higher than the melting point of the wax with the higher or highest melting point, [000183] subjecting the mixture to a process leading to the production of solid wax particles, at a temperature at least 5 to 10°C above the emulsification temperature of the mixture used in the preceding step, and
- the combination of ingredients in the first step of the process and the execution of the second step with heating may be cumulative conditions for obtaining the solid wax particles according to the disclosure in a controlled manner, resulting in solid wax particles that are calibrated to certain properties (e.g., melting point, size, and shape), if desired.
- certain properties e.g., melting point, size, and shape
- the process may, optionally, also include a step of diluting the continuous phase of the mixture before the cooling step.
- process leading to the production of solid wax particles is intended to denote an action of shear type.
- This shearing action can, for example, be accomplished by mixing the wax-surfactant-water mixture using a homogenizer/mixer at a specified speed.
- particle sizes can be achieved such as those ranging from 0.5-100 microns, 1 -50 microns, 2-25 microns, 8-20 microns, 2-10 microns, and even less than 1 micron.
- particle sizes of up to about 20 microns such as up to about 15 microns, up to about 12.5 microns, up to about 10 microns, up to about 7.5 microns, up to about 5 microns, or up to about 2.5 microns may be obtained.
- particles having a size of about 10 microns are formed. It is also possible to use other shearing processes such as those described and referred to in US2006/0292095 and US2006/0263438.
- the emulsification temperature may, in various embodiments, be greater than 40 °C and/or less than 95 °C.
- the solid wax particles may be obtained as a dispersion in an aqueous and/or water-soluble continuous phase.
- a dispersion may also be described as an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.
- the solid wax particles in the wax dispersion may, in at least some embodiments, not aggregate in the dispersion in which they are obtained, and their granulometric specificities in terms of size and distribution index may be conserved therein.
- the aqueous and/or water-soluble continuous phase that is suitable for use according to the disclosure may comprise water or a combination of water and a water-soluble solvent.
- water-soluble solvents that may be used in the wax dispersions in accordance with various embodiments according to the disclosure, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, glycol ethers, and polyols, for instance glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, and polyethylene glycol or mixtures thereof, C 3 and C 4 ketones, and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
- lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, glycol ethers, and polyols, for instance glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol
- water-soluble solvent is intended to denote a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water- miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50 percent by weight at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure).
- the wax dispersions may comprise demineralized or deionized water as the continuous aqueous phase.
- thermoreversible gelling polymers also referred to as thermogelling polymers, useful in various embodiments according to the disclosure may comprise water-soluble units and units having a lower critical solution temperature (“LCST"). Below the LCST, the polymer is substantially completely soluble in water, whereas above this temperature the LCST portions aggregate and lose their solubility in water, thus forming crosslinks between the polymer chains. The polymer then becomes like a three-dimensional network, leading to formation of a gel. Thus, a change in physical state is seen with a change in temperature, for example when a composition in which the polymers are incorporated is subjected to a change in temperature.
- LCST critical solution temperature
- thermoreversible gelling polymers are in liquid form at ambient temperature, and gel form at higher temperatures, such as, for example, at body temperature. Because the change to a gel is physical and temperature-dependent, this phenomenon of thermal gelling is completely reversible.
- the polymers useful according to various embodiments can either be block polymers or graft polymers, and may comprise water-soluble units and LCST units.
- the water-soluble units can be any water-soluble polymers of natural origin or of synthetic origin obtained by chain polymerization or by polycondensation.
- the LCST units can, by way of example, be chosen from:
- Polyethers such as polypropylene oxide (PPO), and its random and block copolymers with poly(ethylene oxide);
- N-substituted derivatives of acrylamide such as poly(N- isopropylacrylamide) or poly(N-ethylacrylamide);
- thermoreversible gelling polymers that may be suitable according to various embodiments can be chosen from, for example, those described in the following patent applications and patents, incorporated by reference herein: FR2694939, FR2788008, FR2820976, FR2856923, GB2408510, EP0629649, EP1307501 , EP1407791 , WO97/00275, WO98/06438, W098/29487, W098/48768, WO98/50005, WO00/00222, WO00/07603, WO00/35961 , WO00/38851 , WO01 /41735, WO02/032560, WO02/076392, WO03/008462, WO03/106536, WO04/006872, US2003/0099709, U.S.
- thermoreversible gelling polymers may, in further exemplary embodiments, be chosen from polyurethanes having polyethylene oxide-b-propylene oxide-b-ethylene oxide ("PEO-b-PPO-b-PEO") groups, such as those described in the following patents and patent applications, incorporated by reference herein: FR2840907, EP692506, EP1407791 , WO 03 106536, U.S. Pat. No. 7,339,013.
- PEO-b-PPO-b-PEO polyethylene oxide-b-propylene oxide-b-ethylene oxide
- thermoreversible gelling polymer is chosen from bis methoxy PEG-13 PEG-438/PPG-1 10 SMDI copolymer.
- thermoreversible gelling polymer may be present in an aqueous solution, and may have a viscosity below about 0.1 Pas under 10 s "1 of shearing at ambient temperature, and a viscosity above 0.1 Pas, such as above 0.3 Pas, under 10 s "1 of shearing at body temperature.
- concentration by weight of thermoreversible gelling polymers in aqueous solution may be up to about 10%, such as between about 2 and 10%, by weight of the aqueous solution.
- the solids content of the thermoreversible gelling polymer may be present in the composition, such as the cosmetic composition or personal care product, in an amount ranging up to about 3%, such as up to about 2%, up to about 1 %, up to about 0.75%, up to about 0.5%, or up to about 0.25%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the solids content of the thermoreversible gelling polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 0.75%, such as about 0.67%.
- compositions containing the at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer further comprise components that are typically found in such compositions, e.g. cosmetic compositions and/or personal care products.
- compositions e.g. cosmetic compositions and/or personal care products
- compositions are intended to include compositions, whether considered cosmetic compositions, personal care products, etc., irrespective of their common referent, that are intended for use in making up, caring for, etc., keratinous substrates, including but not limited to the hair, skin, lips, and nails.
- compositions typically comprise a carrier and at least one auxiliary component.
- compositions according to various embodiments comprise a carrier which includes, but is not limited to water, volatile and non-volatile organic solvents, silicones, polyols, glycols, glycol ethers, oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the volatile organic solvent generally ranges from greater than 0 ⁇ e.g., about 0.01 %) to about 99%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0 to about 55%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0 to about 2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the amount of volatile organic solvent does not exceed 55%.
- the carrier is a cosmetically, dermatologically or physiologically acceptable carrier that is non toxic, wherein the compositions can be applied onto keratinous substrates such the skin, lips, hair, scalp, lashes, brows, nails or any other cutaneous region of the body.
- the cosmetically, dermatologically or physiologically acceptable carrier may comprise water and/or one or more of organic solvents, silicones, polyols, glycols, glycol ethers, and oils.
- the carrier can be employed in an amount of from about 20% to about 99% by weight, or such as from about 40% to about 95% by weight, about 60% to about 90%, or such as from about 80% to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the carrier may be about 25% to about 75% by weight, such as about 35% to about 65%, or about 45% to about 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- compositions comprising the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may additionally contain one or more additional or auxiliary components chosen from, for example, solvents, preservatives, fragrances, thickeners or texturizers, liquid lipids/oils, rheology modifiers, sunscreen agents, pigments/colorants/dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizing agents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants, surfactants, shine agents, conditioning agents, cosmetically, dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents, vitamins, plant extracts, and additional film-formers and coalescents/plasticizers.
- additional or auxiliary components chosen from, for example, solvents, preservatives, fragrances, thickeners or texturizers, liquid lipids/oils, rheology modifiers, sunscreen agents, pigments/colorants/dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizing agents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants, surfactants,
- any of the additional components set forth above for the wax dispersion may be included in the compositions.
- such auxiliary components may be present in the compositions according to the disclosure in a combined amount ranging from about 10% to about 80%, such as about 15% to about 60%, about 25% to about 40%, or about 30% to about 35%.
- Representative liquid lipids comprise oils, triglycerides and liquid fatty substances such as mineral oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rape seed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese-wood oil, Japanese-wood oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol, glyceryl trioctanoate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanote, and glyceryl triisopalmitate.
- mineral oil avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rape seed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, pers
- Representative rheology modifiers include, but are not limited to, thickening agents, and gelling agents.
- the rheology modifier(s) that may be useful in the practice of embodiments of the disclosure include those conventionally used in cosmetics such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers.
- Representative rheology modifiers that may be used in the practice of embodiments according to the disclosure may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric polymers, including acrylate-based polymers, polysaccharides, polyamino compounds, amphiphilic polymers, and other rheology modifiers such as cellulose-based thickeners ⁇ e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cationic cellulose ether derivatives, quaternized cellulose derivatives, etc.), guar gum and its derivatives ⁇ e.g., hydroxypropyl guar, cationic guar derivatives, etc.), gums such as gums of microbial origin ⁇ e.g., xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), and gums derived from plant exudates ⁇ e.g., gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth,
- the surfactants that may be employed as auxiliary agents may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants such as those described above.
- the shine agents may be chosen from silicones, alkoxylated silicones, oils, ethoxylated oils, fats, esters, transesters, hydrocarbons, quats and mixtures thereof.
- Non-limiting examples of shine agents include amodimethicone, dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclemethicone, phenyltrimethicone, aminopropyl phenyltrimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, cetyl dimethicone, alkyl dimethicone, potassium dimethicone PEG-7 pantheyl phosphate, olive oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, avocado oil, castor oil, lanolin, squalane, capric/caprylic triglyceride, octyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, mineral oil, petrolatum, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-1 1 , behentrimonium methosulfate, benetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
- compositions according to various embodiments of the present disclosure may additionally comprise one or more additives chosen from pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, fragrances, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoams, wetting agents, spreading agents, dispersants, plasticizers, mineral fillers, colloidal minerals, peptizers, preserving agents, and pH adjusters.
- additives chosen from pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, fragrances, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoams, wetting agents, spreading agents, dispersants, plasticizers, mineral fillers, colloidal minerals, peptizers, preserving agents, and pH adjusters.
- compositions of the present disclosure may be in the form of an aqueous system, e.g. an aqueous dispersion, a simple or complex emulsion (oil-in- water (o/w), water-in-oil (w/o), silicone-in-water and/or water-in-silicone emulsion types) such as a cream or a milk, in the form of a gel or a cream-gel, or in the form of a lotion, a powder or a solid tube, and any other form that is convenient to the consumer.
- an aqueous system e.g. an aqueous dispersion, a simple or complex emulsion (oil-in- water (o/w), water-in-oil (w/o), silicone-in-water and/or water-in-silicone emulsion types) such as a cream or a milk, in the form of a gel or a cream-gel, or in the form of a lotion, a powder or a solid
- compositions of the present disclosure may be applied onto keratinous substrates or fibers, such as skin, lips, nails, and hair.
- Compositions according to various embodiments may provide the ability to form a thicker coating at the surface of the keratinous substrate or fiber to which they are applied, with increased wax particle deposition. Although not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that this may be due to increased particle density packing.
- compositions comprising at least one film former, at least one wax dispersion, and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer may impart increased volume to keratinous substrates or fibers. Accordingly, one aspect of the disclosure relates to methods of increasing the volume of keratinous substrates or fibers by applying compositions as described herein to keratinous fibers.
- volume refers to the apparent build up of the composition on a keratinous substrate or fiber.
- a composition that produces increased thickness is considered to have good volume properties.
- Volume may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. By way of example only, volume may be evaluated by a test involving first measuring the thickness of human eyelashes or hair. The composition is then applied to the eyelashes or hair. After a period of drying, the thickness of the eyelashes or hair is once again measured. The difference in volume from before and after treatment is then determined.
- Cosmetic compositions and/or personal care products according to various exemplary embodiments of the disclosure may have improved and/or increased ease of removability, relative to similar compositions not having the at least one wax dispersion as described herein.
- ease of removability relates to ease of removing the composition from the keratinous substrate with warm (e.g. about 50 °C or higher) water.
- conventional cleansing agents such as soap or make-up remover may also be used.
- the disclosure also relates to methods of improving or increasing the ease of removability in compositions having at least one film former, such as at least one latex film former, by incorporating wax dispersions and optionally at least one thermoreversible gelling polymer, as described herein, into said cosmetic compositions and/or personal care products.
- at least one film former such as at least one latex film former
- thermoreversible gelling polymer as described herein
- the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- Keratinous substrates include, but are not limited to skin, lips, and nails, and keratinous fibers such as hair and eyelashes.
- "Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent.
- substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as acyloxyalky groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine or amino groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
- the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
- applying a composition onto a substrate and variations of this phrase are intended to mean contacting the substrate, for example, a keratinous substrate such as skin or hair, with at least one of the compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure, in any manner.
- formed from means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions.
- the phrase “formed from,” is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed.
- treat refers to the application of the aqueous dispersion and compositions containing the dispersion onto the surface of a substrate.
- ambient temperature is meant to refer to a temperature in the range of about 18°C to about 25 °C.
- body temperature is meant to refer to a temperature in the range of about 35 °C to about 40 °C.
- compositions and methods according to the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the elements and limitations described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise known and useful in the art.
- FIG. 1 shows micrographs of each of these beeswax dispersions, via optical microscopy.
- Example 1 Mascara compositions with varying amounts of wax dispersion content
- the mascara compositions were individually prepared by combining all the materials into one container and mixed for 3 minutes at 2750 rpm using the Speedmixer DAC 400.1 FVZ (FlackTek Inc.) at room temperature. The final mascara compositions were transferred to the mascara components.
- the mascara compositions were then applied on fake lashes for 30 strokes, and the smudge and water resistances were evaluated after immersing the fake eyelash into artificial sebum and water for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the fake eyelashes were tested for smudge and water resistance by brushing them on to water color paper 10 times at a rate of 12 rpm. After 10 strokes of the fake eyelashes on to water color paper, the paper was air dried and examined for the level of transfer from the various mascara formula.
- Example 2 Mascara compositions with varying amounts of thermoreversible gelling polymer and wax dispersion content
- compositions were prepared. Eight compositions, H-O, were made, as follows:
- the mascara compositions were individually prepared by combining all the materials into one container and mixed for 3 minutes at 2750 rpm using the Speedmixer DAC 400.1 FVZ (FlackTek Inc.) at room temperature. The final mascara compositions were transferred to the mascara components.
- Example 3 Mascara compositions with 0.5% thermoreversible gelling polymer and varying wax dispersion content
- the following exemplary extended-wear mascara compositions P-S were prepared, each of the wax dispersions Q, R, and S having a particle size of 10 microns:
- the mascara compositions were individually prepared by combining all the materials into one container and mixed for 3 minutes at 2750 rpm using the Speedmixer DAC 400.1 FVZ (FlackTek Inc.) at room temperature. The final mascara compositions were transferred to the mascara components.
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Priority Applications (4)
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JP2015536784A JP2015533159A (ja) | 2012-10-15 | 2013-09-18 | ワックス分散液を含む化粧料組成物 |
EP13847717.9A EP2906195A4 (en) | 2012-10-15 | 2013-09-18 | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS WITH WAX DISPERSIONS |
KR1020157012410A KR20150067366A (ko) | 2012-10-15 | 2013-09-18 | 왁스 분산액을 포함하는 화장품 조성물 |
CN201380065192.8A CN104994837A (zh) | 2012-10-15 | 2013-09-18 | 包括蜡分散体的化妆品组合物 |
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US13/652,328 US20140105945A1 (en) | 2012-10-15 | 2012-10-15 | Cosmetic compositions comprising wax dispersions and thermoreversible gelling polymers |
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WO2016100436A3 (en) * | 2014-12-19 | 2016-08-25 | L'oreal | Hair styling compositions comprising latex polymers and wax dispersions |
US10195122B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2019-02-05 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for hair |
US9814668B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-11-14 | L'oreal | Hair styling compositions comprising latex polymers |
US9814669B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-11-14 | L'oreal | Hair cosmetic composition containing latex polymers and a silicone-organic polymer compound |
US9801808B2 (en) | 2014-12-19 | 2017-10-31 | Loreal | Hair styling compositions comprising latex polymers and wax dispersions |
US10813853B2 (en) | 2014-12-30 | 2020-10-27 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for hair |
EP3265055A4 (en) * | 2015-03-03 | 2018-10-24 | L'oreal | Long-wear mascara composition |
CN107429488A (zh) * | 2015-03-10 | 2017-12-01 | 萨塞耳蜡有限公司 | 用于纸制品的涂层的包含烃蜡和二烷基醚的水基蜡分散体 |
CN107429488B (zh) * | 2015-03-10 | 2021-02-09 | 萨塞耳蜡有限公司 | 用于纸制品的涂层的包含烃蜡和二烷基醚的水基蜡分散体 |
FR3046076A1 (fr) * | 2015-12-29 | 2017-06-30 | Oreal | Composition comprenant des particules photoniques et une argile |
US12194121B2 (en) * | 2021-12-22 | 2025-01-14 | Tokiwa Corporation | Aqueous eyebrow cosmetic and eyebrow cosmetic product |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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EP2906195A1 (en) | 2015-08-19 |
CN104994837A (zh) | 2015-10-21 |
JP2015533159A (ja) | 2015-11-19 |
KR20150067366A (ko) | 2015-06-17 |
EP2906195A4 (en) | 2016-08-10 |
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