WO2013134565A1 - Articles vestimentaires doublés et procédés de fabrication - Google Patents

Articles vestimentaires doublés et procédés de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013134565A1
WO2013134565A1 PCT/US2013/029718 US2013029718W WO2013134565A1 WO 2013134565 A1 WO2013134565 A1 WO 2013134565A1 US 2013029718 W US2013029718 W US 2013029718W WO 2013134565 A1 WO2013134565 A1 WO 2013134565A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
adhesive
liner
glove
outer layer
pattern
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2013/029718
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Cole Williams
Original Assignee
Danalco (Inc.)
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Danalco (Inc.) filed Critical Danalco (Inc.)
Publication of WO2013134565A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013134565A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D19/00—Gloves
    • A41D19/001—Linings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B11/00—Hosiery; Panti-hose
    • A41B11/005—Hosiery made essentially of a multi-ply construction
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D19/00—Gloves
    • A41D19/015—Protective gloves
    • A41D19/01523—Protective gloves absorbing shocks or vibrations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D19/00—Gloves
    • A41D19/015—Protective gloves
    • A41D19/01547—Protective gloves with grip improving means
    • A41D19/01558—Protective gloves with grip improving means using a layer of grip improving material
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D19/00—Gloves
    • A41D19/04—Appliances for making gloves; Measuring devices for glove-making
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2400/00—Functions or special features of garments
    • A41D2400/10—Heat retention or warming
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10—Knitted

Definitions

  • Knit gloves are made using specialty automated knitting machines that knit seamless, one piece gloves in accordance with the computer program controlling the machine. Unlike cut-and-sewn gloves, knit gloves are made by directly converting yarns into a complete glove such that no sheets of fabric are required. Knit gloves by themselves, however, can be relatively thin and may not provide the insulative properties desired by a user. Linings can be cut and sewn to the knit gloves, but then the gloves will likely have the same drawbacks mentioned above relating to splitting, restriction, and discomfort. Manufacturing knit gloves with a comfortable, flexible, and durable inner liner is accordingly particularly challenging.
  • Figure 3 is a top view of an outer layer of a glove that has been turned inside-out and then stretched over the glove form of Figure 2.
  • Figure 4 is a top view of a glove liner positioned on a substrate.
  • Figure 6A is a top view of the glove liner of Figure 4 having a spot pattern of adhesive.
  • Figure 6B is an illustration of a glove liner having spot pattern of adhesive in accordance with further embodiments of the technology.
  • Figures 6C and 6D are illustrations of spot patterns of adhesive in accordance with still further embodiments of the technology.
  • Figure 8 is a top view of the glove of Figure 7 positioned in a clamping device.
  • Figure 9 is a top view of the clamping device of Figure 8.
  • Figures 10A and 10B are top views of the back interior surface and palm interior surface, respectively, of the assembled glove. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
  • a clothing article can include an outer layer, such as a knit outer layer, having an interior surface and an exterior surface opposite the interior surface.
  • the clothing article can further include a liner having a first side, a second side opposite the first side, and a perimeter portion.
  • An adhesive can be positioned between the first side of the liner and the interior surface of the knit outer layer.
  • the perimeter portion of the liner can be compressed or merged into itself to form a generally seamless second side of the liner.
  • the clothing article comprises a glove, sock, or hat.
  • the adhesive is distributed in an adhesive pattern having adhesive spotting.
  • the adhesive spotting can have different concentrations or densities on different portions of the liner.
  • the adhesive spotting may have a first spotting density on a finger or fingertip portion of the liner and a different spotting density on a center or palm portion of the liner.
  • the adhesive pattern includes adhesive spotting generally adjacent to the perimeter portion of the liner.
  • the adhesive pattern comprises a grid pattern.
  • the adhesive comprises a one-part epoxy or a two-part epoxy.
  • at least one of the outer layer or the liner comprises fleece, wool, cotton, canvas, or leather.
  • at least a portion of the outer layer comprises electrically conductive fibers.
  • Figure 1A is a top view a palm side of a glove 100 in accordance with an embodiment of the technology.
  • Figure 1 B is a cross-sectional view of the glove 100 along line B-B of Figure 1A.
  • the glove 100 includes a palm side 1 12 and a back side 1 14 ( Figure 1 B), and comprises a finger portion 102 distal to a palm portion 104, and a forearm portion 106 proximal to the palm portion 104.
  • At least a portion of the glove 100 is layered, and comprises an exterior outer layer 1 10 and a liner 120 (Figure 1 B) lining at least a portion of the interior surface of the outer layer 1 10.
  • the liner 120 is spot- attached to the outer layer 1 10 with adhesive 130.
  • the liner 120 can be a single-piece liner providing a substantially seamless interior portion of the glove 100.
  • Outer layers 1 10 that include an elastane fiber exhibit good stretch and return characteristics (e.g., elasticity) which provides good form fitting (e.g., close fitting to the human hand). Also, a single sized glove can fit a variety of hand sizes because the elasticity allows small gloves to expand and comfortably fit larger hands.
  • the outer layer 1 10 can be manufactured using knitting machines that are computer controlled to automatically produce a one-piece, seamless glove to which the liner 120 can be attached. Suitable computer-controlled glove knitting machines for producing basic knit fabric gloves are well known in the trade, such as the computer controlled knitting machines made by Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd. of Wakayama, Japan.
  • the glove 100 can include leather fingerpads or palm pads that can be bonded or otherwise affixed to the outer layer 1 10, polyvinyl emulsion printed and cured onto the glove palm to enhance the gripping surface, rubber-like foam material (e.g., neoprene) to shock-isolate the palm of the hand from vibrations (e.g., from a jack-hammer), or heavier weight material on the back of the glove than on the palm (or vice-versa) to increase thermal insulation.
  • leather fingerpads or palm pads that can be bonded or otherwise affixed to the outer layer 1 10
  • polyvinyl emulsion printed and cured onto the glove palm to enhance the gripping surface rubber-like foam material (e.g., neoprene) to shock-isolate the palm of the hand from vibrations (e.g., from a jack-hammer), or heavier weight material on the back of the glove than on the palm (or vice-versa) to increase thermal insulation.
  • the outer layer 1 10 materials can be selected for having particular properties such as flame- or water-resistance, high durability, or grip features (i.e., high-friction).
  • the glove 100 can include wear-resistant portions on the places of the glove 100 most likely to be abused or abraded, or areas that are used to grip items or protect a person's hand.
  • a manufactured sock can include multiple layers on a portion of the sock (e.g., the bottom of the sock) to provide, as an example, increased insulative, absorptive, or durability characteristics.
  • Figures 2-10B illustrate stages of an embodiment of manufacturing an article of clothing, such as the glove 100, in accordance with the technology.
  • Figures 2-10B more specifically, illustrate stages of manufacturing and attaching the liner 120 to the interior surface of the outer layer 1 10.
  • the liner 120 is spot attached to the outer layer 1 10 with adhesive 130 when the outer layer 1 10 is in an inside-out orientation and in a stretched configuration.
  • the outer layer 1 10 is later returned to a "right-side-out" position and is allowed to relax and return to an unstretched configuration, providing a substantially seamless, lined interior.
  • Figures 2-10B illustrate this method in the context of glove manufacturing, these steps can be applied to create other clothing articles such as lined hats, socks, shirts, pants, or other apparel.
  • Figure 2 is a top view of a glove form 240 configured in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • Figure 3 is a top view of the outer layer 1 10 of the glove 100 in an inside-out configuration stretched over the glove form 240.
  • the glove form 240 is sized to be larger than the outer layer 1 10 in the outer layer's unstretched, or resting state so the glove will stretch at least radially (or laterally) when positioned on the form.
  • the finger portion of the glove form 240 has a width of from about 5 inches to about 6 inches, compared to a narrower width of the glove 100.
  • the glove form 240 can have the same or different widths at different portions (e.g., the finger and palm portions).
  • the difference in dimensions between the outer layer 1 10 and the glove form 240 can vary in alternate embodiments to produce gloves having different resulting properties.
  • the wider the glove form 240 the greater the resulting compression when the outer layer 1 10 is removed from the glove form 240 after the liner 120 has been attached.
  • the narrower the glove form 240 the less the resulting compression when the outer layer 1 10 is removed from the glove form 240.
  • the preferred degree of compression (and the corresponding preferred glove form 240 size) can be selected depending on various factors, such as the material selections for the outer layer 1 10 and the liner 120, and the acceptable level of compression/expansion stress that can be applied to these materials.
  • the glove form 240 can be made of metal or other materials having sufficient stiffness to provide a form for stretching the outer layer 1 10 without buckling.
  • the glove form 240 is made of aluminum (e.g., sheet aluminum).
  • the glove form 240 can have a constant thickness or can have different thicknesses at different portions.
  • Figures 4-6 illustrate steps of preparing the liner 120 for attachment to the stretched outer layer 1 10.
  • the entire liner 120 is a one- piece liner cut from a sheet of fabric.
  • the liner 120 can be made of knit, woven, felted, non-woven, molded, cast, leather, or other sheet goods.
  • the liner 120 comprises fleece, wool, cotton, canvas, leather, blends, or other materials chosen for particular properties, such as insulative properties, water resistance, flame resistance, etc.
  • the liner 120 comprises POLARTEC® Thermal FR with Nomex (Style #2200).
  • the liner 120 comprises multiple layers of fleece or other materials, or other combinations of materials.
  • the layers of the liner 120 can be attached to one another via sewing, adhesive, or fabric fastening means.
  • the liner 120 comprises a single piece of material that will cover both the palm and back sides of a user's hand.
  • the liner 120 comprises a back side 124 integrally connected to a palm side 122, and the palm-side 122 has a shorter finger portion than the back side 124.
  • the palm side 122 extends only up to approximately the second knuckle of the user, so that portion of the liner will not cover the wearer's fingertips. This construction allows the user's fingertips to directly contact the electrically conductive fibers in the fingertip areas of the glove 100 without interference from the liner 120.
  • the liner 120 can extend the entire length of the finger portion (i.e., does not stop at the second knuckle). In yet other embodiments, the liner 120 can be shaped and sized so more of the finger portion (or only some of the finger portions) are liner-free. In some embodiments, the liner 120 can be cut with the use of a die, such as a steel rule die.
  • the liner 120 can be positioned on a substrate 460 for further processing.
  • the glove liner 120 can simply rest on the substrate 460 or can be releasably attached to the substrate 460 with clips, wires, latches, clamps, or other mechanisms.
  • the glove liner 120 can be a single material type or can be a combination of materials.
  • the liner comprises a first material on the palm side 122 and a second material on the back side 124.
  • Figure 5 is a top view of the substrate 460 and liner 120 positioned in a printing device 562 in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • the printing device 562 of the illustrated embodiment includes a hinged arm 564 framing a printing screen 566 that is alternately movable on hinges 572 to cover and expose the liner 120 and substrate 460.
  • the printing screen 566 can comprise a generally flat plate having an aperture pattern 570 corresponding to a desired adhesive pattern for the liner 120.
  • the apertures in the pattern extend fully through the printing screen and are in direct communication with the liner 120.
  • the printing screen 566 can be a metal material, such as aluminum or steel, or other material having sufficient strength and stiffness to support processing.
  • the aperture pattern 570 can vary in different embodiments of the technology.
  • An adhesive can be spread over the printing screen 566, causing the adhesive to fill only the individual apertures in the aperture pattern 570 and be applied to the liner 120 in an arrangement matching the aperture pattern 570.
  • the printing screen 566 accordingly functions like a silk screen.
  • the adhesive can be dispersed over the printing screen 566 with a spreader, such as a squeegee. This can ensure that the adhesive will uniformly fill all the apertures in the aperture pattern 570 such that the adhesive will be deposited on, and remain on, the liner 120 when the printing screen is lifted off of the liner, thereby making a complete, uniform adhesive distribution in the adhesive pattern on the liner 120.
  • the individual apertures in the aperture pattern 570 can have varying diameters in various embodiments of the technology.
  • the individual apertures are about 0.068 inch in diameter.
  • the individual apertures can have larger diameters, such as about 0.094 inch in diameter.
  • the individual apertures may or may not have a consistent diameter across the aperture pattern 570.
  • the individual apertures can be spaced apart by a range of dimensions (e.g., 0.250 inch in one embodiment).
  • the apertures can be larger or smaller or in shapes other than circles in further embodiments, and can be spaced apart by different distances.
  • the adhesive can be applied in different thicknesses with the printing screen 566. In a particular embodiment, the adhesive is applied while using a screen made of .026 inch thick sheet metal. The amount of adhesive applied using the screen printing technique may be varied by using screens made of differing thickness.
  • a one-component epoxy adhesive is used.
  • the adhesive is manufactured by Epoxies Etc. of Cranston, Rhode Island, and is product number 10-3782.
  • the adhesive can be heat-activated to cure.
  • the adhesive comprises Grilltex® 8E P2-2 made by Ems-Chemie Inc., of Sumter, South Carolina. The particle size of Grilltex® is approximately from about 200 to about 300 microns, and the activation temperature is approximately 275° F.
  • a 2-part epoxy type adhesive can be used.
  • the adhesive can begin as two fluids mixed together in particular proportions and applied as a liquid. In a short time, by means of a chemical reaction, the two liquids become a solid bond.
  • the epoxy can exhibit shore hardness of D-80.
  • 3M® Epoxy Adhesive #DP-460 Off-White 2-part Epoxy can be used.
  • other 2-part epoxies can be used.
  • a B-stageable epoxy adhesive can be used.
  • the adhesive can be exposed to low temperature curing into a B-stage that can later be re-liquefied and cured after glove assembly and clamping at an even more elevated temperature.
  • Epoxy Technology EPO-TEK® B9021 -13 can be used, but other materials can be used in other embodiments.
  • Figure 6A is a top view of the glove liner 120 having a spot pattern 670 of adhesive in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • the spot pattern 670 matches the aperture pattern 570 on the printing screen 566 ( Figure 5).
  • the spot pattern 670 can comprise a constant spotting density across the entirety of the liner 120, or can include different spotting densities at different positions on the liner 120. In some embodiments, a greater spotting density is applied to locations on the liner 120 expected to be subjected to the largest amount of movement or fatigue, such as the fingers or fingertips.
  • the spot pattern 670 outlines the perimeter of each of the palm and back sides 122, 124 of the liner 120.
  • the spot pattern 670 further outlines the perimeter of individual fingers, with a plurality of rows of adhesive spots at the top of each finger portion.
  • the spot pattern 670 can include more or fewer adhesive spots in the same or alternate locations on the liner 120.
  • the spot pattern 670 can include adhesive in the central palm portion of the liner 120 and the adhesive can form lines or regions rather than individual spots.
  • a pattern of adhesive can be applied to define channels or pathways between the liner 120 and the outer layer 1 10. These pathways can be configured to receive other items disposed between the layers, such as heating elements, wires, optic fibers, communication elements, padding, lights, etc.
  • silver or another metallic or conductive material is disposed in such pathways.
  • the adhesive can be sprinkled or otherwise applied over most or all of the surface of the liner 120, before or after the liner 120 is cut to shape.
  • the adhesive is applied to the outer layer 1 10 instead of or in addition to the liner 120.
  • the adhesive spots may be applied by means of dispensing individual spots controllably through syringes equipped with appropriate cannula.
  • Figure 6B is an illustration of an adhesive spot pattern 671 in accordance with further embodiments of the technology.
  • the spot pattern 671 covers the entire liner, including a central or palm region.
  • the spot pattern 671 includes adhesive spots that are on a grid or otherwise aligned relative to a frame of reference, such as a manufacturing tool. This can be useful in production to ensure that the adhesive is not smeared by the manufacturing tool, such as when the manufacturing tool is holding the liner 120 or other portion of the glove 100 in place during processing.
  • spot patterns of adhesive can be used.
  • a tighter grid of spotting i.e., smaller spacing providing a greater spotting density
  • the adhesive is spotted in series of laterally offset rows.
  • the rows or grid arrangement of adhesive spotting can be particularly effective in adhering the liner 120 to the outer layer 1 10.
  • Figure 7 is a top view of the liner 120 attaching to the interior surface of the outer layer 1 10 in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • the outer layer 1 10 i.e., the knit glove
  • the outer layer 1 10 on the associated glove form 240 is aligned with one-half of the liner 120 so that the fingers and edges of the glove align with the finger portions and edges of the area of the liner 120.
  • the other half of the liner 120 is lifted off the substrate 460 and folded at the edge of the glove from 240 so as to cover and align with the other side of the glove along the edges and finger portions.
  • the liner 120 is aligned with the outer layer— the back side of the liner 120 is attached to the back side of the outer layer 1 10 and the palm side of the liner 120 is attached to the palm side of the outer layer 1 10, with the adhesive in the adhesive pattern 670 affixing the two layers.
  • the one-piece liner 120 is accordingly "folded" around the outer layer 1 10.
  • the liner 120 is folded around a straight edge of the glove form 240.
  • the straight edge of the glove form 240 allows the inner liner 120 to fold easily, accurately and smoothly over the straight edge of the outer layer when on the form without buckling or bundling.
  • This glove form 240 also allows the use of a more simple shape for the inner liner material with less waste.
  • the liner 120 extends only to the second knuckle region of the fingers on the palm side of the outer layer, leaving the fingertips exposed for the improved tactile function discussed above.
  • the liner 120 is formed so that the finger portions are partially separated by cuts formed by the cutting die, except that the cuts terminate just before the ends of the finger portions.
  • each of the finger portions is temporarily connected to the adjacent finger portions by a small, uncut piece of the liner material (i.e., connection portions) between the finger portions.
  • connection portions help keep the finger portions properly aligned relative to each other and relative to the outer glove layer 1 10 when the liner material is being wrapped onto the glove on the glove form. This allows for more accurate and faster positioning of the finger portions over the glove and glove form during the manufacturing process.
  • the connection portions can be severed.
  • additional liners or portions of liners may be applied in layers to create a multi-ply glove 100.
  • an additional layer can be applied in the knuckle area of the glove for additional protection.
  • the stretchability of the glove can be controlled or reduced by selecting the number of layers and the means by which the layers are bonded together.
  • functional components such as a heating element, wiring, and/or controls are sandwiched between the liner 120 and the outer layer 1 10.
  • Figure 8 is a top isometric view of the glove 100 positioned in a clamping device 880 in an undamped configuration in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • Figure 9 is a top isometric view of the clamping device 880 in a clamped configuration.
  • the clamping device includes a base portion 886, a pressure plate 884, and a plurality of clamps 882 configured to releasably compress the pressure plate 884 against the glove 100 and the base portion 886.
  • other types of clamps 882 or other securing mechanism(s) can be used.
  • the pressure plate 884 can comprise a metal or other material with sufficient strength and stiffness to provide pressure, in conjunction with the clamps 882, to the glove 100 without buckling. This compression can further secure the liner 120 to the outer layer 1 10. While the illustrated embodiment includes six clamps 882, further embodiments can include more or fewer clamps 882 or other pressure-providing devices in alternate or additional locations. For example, in a particular embodiment, a single pressure-press can be applied from above the base 886 to sandwich the glove 100. In another embodiment, a groove clamp can be used on one or more lateral sides of the clamping device 880 to sandwich the base portion 886 and pressure plate 884. The groove clamp can thus interface with the clamping device 880 in a tongue-and-groove manner. In some embodiments, two groove clamps are used on opposing lateral sides of the clamping device 880. In particular embodiments, the groove clamp is made of wood.
  • FIGs 10A and 10B are top views of the back interior surface and palm interior surface, respectively, of the glove 100 with attached interior liner 120 in accordance with embodiments of the technology.
  • the glove 100 has been removed from the glove form 240 and has compressed from a stretched state to an unstretched state.
  • the compression of the outer layer 1 10 from the stretched to the unstretched state also compresses the liner 120, which causes edges of the liner 120 to mate or merge, thereby closing the adjacent edges of the liner 120.
  • the liner 120 accordingly feels seamless to the user, as the edges have been compressed together without stitching.
  • the glove 100 can be reversed from an inside-out configuration to a right-side-out configuration.
  • the gloves 100 disclosed herein offer several advantages over traditional gloves.
  • the substantially seamless construction provides improved comfort to the user and can have enhanced durability compared to gloves with stitched seams that are potentially vulnerable to splitting.
  • the method also produces less liner material waste than embodiments having multi-piece liners, as multi-piece liners require more unused material between the individual liner pieces.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Gloves (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des articles vestimentaires, tels que des gants comportant une doublure intérieure essentiellement sans couture et des procédés de fabrication desdits articles. Dans un mode de réalisation, un procédé de fabrication d'un gant comprend l'étirage d'une couche extérieure à l'envers par-dessus un modèle en forme de gant, de telle sorte qu'une surface intérieure de la couche extérieure soit tournée vers l'extérieur. Une doublure présentant un premier côté et un second côté opposé au premier côté est découpée dans un textile, tel que du molleton. Un adhésif est appliqué selon un motif d'adhésif sur le premier côté de la doublure. L'adhésif fond et adhère à la surface intérieure de la couche extérieure au cours d'un procédé impliquant l'application de chaleur et d'une pression, ceci fixant le premier côté de la doublure à la surface intérieure de la couche extérieure afin de former le gant. Le gant est retiré du modèle en forme de gant et retourné de sorte qu'il se trouve dans une configuration à l'endroit, ceci comprimant la couche extérieure et la doublure.
PCT/US2013/029718 2012-03-09 2013-03-07 Articles vestimentaires doublés et procédés de fabrication WO2013134565A1 (fr)

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US201261609208P 2012-03-09 2012-03-09
US61/609,208 2012-03-09

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CN109414080B (zh) * 2016-06-28 2022-07-15 W.L.戈尔有限公司 用于制造透水汽或透气的三维手套或手套衬里的方法
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US20230012468A9 (en) * 2018-02-19 2023-01-12 Snails, LLC Treatment Application Garment
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US20060117457A1 (en) * 2004-11-24 2006-06-08 Williams Mark A Windproof waterproof breathable seamed articles
US20060195969A1 (en) * 2005-03-02 2006-09-07 Ragan Thomas G Glove construction and method of making same
US20100077533A1 (en) * 2008-09-29 2010-04-01 Munda Joseph P Thermal athletic glove
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US20170027256A1 (en) 2017-02-02

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