WO2013102248A2

WO2013102248A2 - "aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition and use thereof, cosmetic method for application of said composition, cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness, cosmetic method to protect the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation, and cosmetic product."

Info

Publication number: WO2013102248A2
Application number: PCT/BR2013/000002
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cristina WÖLKE VENDRUSCOLO; Cinthia Fernanda ZANATTA; Gabriela Maria DE LUCA MOREIRA; COBEIROS.Nilo LEMOS
Original assignee: . Johnson & Johnson Do Brasil Industria E Comercio De Produtos Para Saude Ltda.
Priority date: 2012-01-06
Filing date: 2013-01-04
Publication date: 2013-07-11
Also published as: WO2013102248A3; BR102012000372B1; BR102012000372A2

Abstract

It is described an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition which comprises at least an emulsifying agent, at least a water-soluble sun- screen agent and at least a lipid-soluble sunscreen agent, wherein said composition is presented as serum and has no oil absorbing particles or has such particles up to 7% in weight. The present application also describes a method for application of said composition, a method to prevent and control skin oiliness and also a method to protect the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation. Finally, the scope of this application also includes the use of the composition disclosed to prepare a sunscreen, as well as a product compris¬ ing said composition.

Description

Specification of Patent of Invention for "AQUEOUS COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE THEREOF, COSMETIC METHOD FOR APPLICATION OF SAID COMPOSITION, COSMETIC METHOD TO PREVENT AND CONTROL SKIN OILINESS, COSMETIC METHOD TO PROTECT THE SKIN FROM THE DAMAGES CAUSED BY ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION, AND COSMETIC PRODUCT."

The present invention refers to an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition in the form of serum, without oil absorbing particles or having these particles up to 7% in weight, we well as to a cosmetic method for ap- plication of said cosmetic composition disclosed.

This invention also refers to a cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness and also to a cosmetic method to protect the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Finally, the present invention refers to the use of said cosmetic composition for preparation of a sunscreen and to a cosmetic product comprising said cosmetic composition.

Background of the Invention

Cosmetic products with protection against ultraviolet radiation (UV), also known as protectors or sunscreens, are commonly marketed as gel, cream, emulsion or spray and aim at protecting the skin of a person from the rays irradiated by the sun. Such preventive measure is necessary once prolonged exposure to sunlight, directly or indirectly, is capable of causing not only tanning of the skin, but also photoaging, photoallergy and sunburn. Moreover, radiation may cause late reactions due to its cumulative effect in the organism.

Ultraviolet radiation comprises all radiation with wavelength shorter than 400 nanometers (nm). The ultraviolet spectrum is subdivided into UV rays such as A (UVA) with wavelength between 320nm and 400nm, UV rays such as B (UVB) with wavelength between 280nm and 320nm, and UV rays such as C (UVC) with wavelength between 200nm and 280nm.

As regards the incidence of ultraviolet radiation at the atmosphere, the ozone layer absorbs practically all UVC spectrum and it also ab- sorbs and mitigates part of the UVB spectrum. The UVA spectrum, in its turn, is not absorbed by the ozone layer and is, therefore, the ultraviolet radiation that gets more in contact with people.

UVA rays are related to tanning and are the main responsible for photoaging, modifying the collagen and elastic fibers, causing wrinkles, loss of elasticity and spots. They are also considerably responsible for photoallergies and also predispose the skin to the appearance of cancer. UVB rays, in turn, though less frequently, are also harmful to the skin of a person, once they can cause sunburn.

It is worth recalling that exposure to UVA and UVB radiation can happen in open environments, such as beach, pool and field, and during the practice of sports outdoors and routine activities. Surfaces such as sand, snow and water can reflect much more the sunlight and cause skin burn.

Within this context, it is recommended to apply a suitable sun- screen immediately in the morning, even on cloudy or overcast days. Additionally, when wearing make-up, it is recommended to apply sunscreen and wait until the skin absorbs the product before applying the make-up.

In light of the studies and research developed so far, it is widely disclosed that solar radiation can influence and speed up the aging of a per- son's skin and, therefore, preventive measures must be taken to fight it. Photoaged skin shows loss of elasticity, wrinkles, dark or clear spots and skin alterations and may become rough and flaky, unlike skin that ages as a result from the natural deterioration of the organism which, in turn, has a thinner, flaccid appearance, with little elasticity and thin wrinkle, but without spots or alterations on its surface.

The daily use of sunscreen is, therefore, highly recommended for all types of skin in order to create a block against ultraviolet radiation. The UVB rays related to sunburn and to skin cancer are quantified according to the sun protection factor (SPF) present in the sunscreen. However, the UVA rays, responsible for photoaging, wrinkles and spots, have some methods of quantification (PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening) whereas COLIPA (The European Cosmetics Association) is the official methodology for Europe and also for the countries members of Mercosur.

Whereas the UVA rays affect the skin of a person without burning or letting the skin reddish, UVB rays act totally otherwise. Then, to avoid skin redness which is typical of sunburn, the SPF present in sunscreens indi- cates the period during which a person can be exposed to the UVB without the inconveniences of reddish and burned skin.

The dosage of sunscreen to be applied is different for each person and depends a lot on genetic predisposition and on ethnic origin. If a person tolerates at the most ten minutes exposed to the sun, when using a sunscreen with SPF 15, such person must be capable of tolerating up to 150 minutes of sun without getting his/her skin reddish, once the SPF 15 increases the time of exposure fifteen times. In this case, from 150 minutes on, time of exposure will exceed and redness will occur.

Sunscreen with SPF from 2 to 11 offers minimum protection against ultraviolet rays; SPF from 12 to 29 offers moderate protection, and SPF 30 and more offers high protection.

The market has several trademarks of companies that develop sunscreens with a differentiated esthetical appeal, suggesting effects that combine beauty and health, thus investing on the visual impression that gen- erally corresponds to the consumer's main assessment at the moment of purchasing the product.

However, a consumer actually expects the sunscreen purchased to show effective protection against UVA and UVB rays, to contain smooth texture, to be easily spread, to be quickly absorbed and to have antioxidant action helping at preventing skin aging, to not irritate the skin, to form an invisible layer over the skin after application and, above all, to not let the skin oily so that the skin does not become shiny.

Cosmetic sunscreen compositions often include one or more organic agents to provide extensive protection against UVA and UVB radiation. However, high concentrations of organic agents cause irritation problems and burning sensation in some people who use sunscreens with high SPF. Moreover, the excess of organic agents is responsible for the undesirable sensation of oiliness on the skin.

Furthermore, it is known that in the summer the skin of the face tends to get oilier, once the sun can increase the production of sebum and cause the pores to get obstructed. The use of a sunscreen with high oily im- pact can increase the lipid content on the skin surface and consequently increase the emergence of acne.

An attempt to reduce sunscreen oiliness was made by preparing a cosmetic composition for sunscreen with organic agents containing alcohol. It was discovered that such formulations can provide a diminished sen- sation of oily skin. On the other hand, compositions containing alcohol in the formulation have considerable disadvantages, such as skin dehydration.

Research in this regard has been carried out by several companies of personal care and tests with consumers have been intensified all over the world in order to try to find a combination of ingredients that lead to a cosmetic composition with efficient properties, combined with reduced undesirable perceptions on sunscreens.

Patent document US 2009/0208443 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a starch, a cationic copolymer having a monomer unit which is acryloylethyl triiC Cs alkyl) ammonium salt and a cosmetically ac- ceptable vehicle. The compositions are used to give brightness with effect of focus over the skin. Acrylamide/ acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chlo- ride/tris(hydroxymethyl) acrylamidomethane copolymer is more preferred than the cationic copolymer.

Patent document US 2010/0028393 discloses a cosmetic com- position comprising a continuous aqueous phase, a first non-aqueous and dispersed phase comprising hydrophobic colorant, and a second nonaqueous and dispersed phase being substantially free from hydrophobic colorant, as well as a method for the preparation of this composition and use thereof.

Patent document US 5,932,194 discloses a topically applicable cosmetic/dermatological composition suitable for photoprotection and improvement of human keratinous substrates, for instance, human skin and/or hair, comprising (a) an aqueous phase, (b) at least an oily phase with a refractive index n1 , (c) an efficient amount of UV photoprotection of at least an active agent of UV sunscreen soluble in water and (d) particles of at least a polymer that does not form pellicle having a refractive index n2, and refrac- tive indexes n1 and n2 being selected such as: | n2-n1 | < 0.07.

There is also, at the market, sunscreens known as physical sunscreens once they have titanium dioxide that lets a thicker layer of product, of whitish color, on the skin. Analogously, chemical sunscreens absorb the ultraviolet rays before they penetrate the skin, being more resistant to water.

In view of what is known at the market, it is obvious the concern of companies in this segment searching for a cosmetic composition for sunscreen that combines functional ingredients for protection against ultraviolet radiation for a prolonged time and, in parallel, that has satisfactory tactile perception.

Therefore, there is a gap in the state of the art that identifies a deficiency in the cosmetic composition of sunscreens, once what can be currently found translates into products as gel, cream, emulsion or spray with isolated characteristics. In other words, the sunscreen offers good protection against ultraviolet rays and has deficiencies in the action that regulates oili- ness - or vice-versa - or, besides, the sunscreen can protect people from solar radiation and can control skin oiliness, but does not have appropriate texture and, therefore, causes inconveniences such as the need of frequently reapplying the product, or leaves white spots on the skin, etc.

In view of the frequent problems found in the prior arts, the hold- er of this patent application developed a new cosmetic composition for sunscreen that combines ingredients without oil absorbing particles, or a cosmetic composition containing these particles up to 7% in weight, resulting in an efficient and innovative product which will be described below.

Purposes of the invention

This invention aims at presenting an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition in the form of serum, exempt from oil absorbing particles or having these particles up to 7% in weight. This invention also aims at providing a cosmetic method for application of said cosmetic composition disclosed.

Moreover, this invention seeks a cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness.

This invention also aims at presenting a cosmetic method to protect the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Additionally, another purpose of this invention is the use of said cosmetic composition for the preparation of a sunscreen.

Finally, this invention aims at a cosmetic product comprising said cosmetic composition.

Brief Description of the Figures

We refer below to the figures attached to the text to better understand the examples and embodiments presented, in which:

Figure 1 - illustrates a graphic that shows the values of sebum measurement obtained in the test with sunscreen "Control SPF 30" (traditional emulsion).

Figure 2 - illustrates a graphic that shows the values of sebum measurement obtained in the test with sunscreen "Serum SPF 30".

Figure 3 - illustrates a graphic that shows the values of sebum measurement obtained in the test with sunscreen "Serum SPF 35"

Brief description of the invention

The purposes of this invention are achieved by a cosmetic composition comprising at least an emulsifying agent, at least a water-soluble sunscreen agent and at least a lipid-soluble sunscreen agent.

Moreover, the purposes of this invention are achieved by applying a cosmetically effective amount of said cosmetic composition disclosed and by immediately spreading it until a homogenous coat is formed on the skin.

A distinguishing characteristic of this invention is a sunscreen with light and fluid consistency in the form of serum which, in turn, includes in its composition protection against UVA and UVB ultraviolet rays, antioxidant action, quick absorption in the skin, formation of a homogenous and invisible layer over the skin, as well as the capacity of preventing and controlling skin oiliness for a prolonged period of up to eight hours.

Detailed description of the invention

This invention describes an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen com- position in the form of serum, exempt from oil absorbing particles or having these particles up to 7% in weight, capable of preventing and controlling skin oiliness for a prolonged period of up to eight hours and of protecting the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Serum is a cosmetic containing water which corresponds more specifically to a substance with a clearly lighter and more fluid texture compared to a cream, for instance. Besides, it is not oily, with a huge power of absorption and high concentration of substances that act on the deepest layers of the skin, with average viscosity of 6,000 centipoises (CPs), being able to vary from the lowest limit of 3,500 CPs and the highest limit of 20,000 CPs.

In the past, products in the form of serum were aimed at treatments of very aged skin, and the formulation of these compositions related such products to anti-aging treatments.

Currently it is possible to find products in the form of serum for the most diverse types of cosmetic treatments and at more accessible prices, although they are even more acknowledged for the evidently more efficient results they have. Furthermore, cosmetic products in the form of serum stand out mainly because they are absorbed immediately in the skin, without leaving an oily aspect.

Such diversification of treatments with products in the form of serum results from studies and research which showed that the serums may have a more gelled consistency when made with lipids, as well as they can have thinner consistency, almost liquid, when formulated containing water with a minimum amount of lipids.

Within this context, this invention developed an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition with an innovative concept in the segment of sunscreens for the line of facial treatment. Its formula particularly combines a polymeric structure with hydrophilic and lipophilic sunscreen agents, as well as antioxidant agent, resulting in a product with SPF up to 60 and attested efficiency against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Moreover, the sunscreen disclosed in the present patent applica- tion has a perfect composition for people with oily or combination skin, because the serum resulting from the composition in question does not irritate the skin and is capable of preventing and controlling oiliness for a period of up to eight hours, as demonstrated in the tests that will be further described.

Once it has more fluid consistency, the sunscreen in the form of serum covered by this invention overcomes the inconveniences of a sunscreen in the form of cream which, for having denser consistency, tends to let the skin of the face whitish, spotting the eyebrows and the hair strings close to the forehead.

The composition of the sunscreen disclosed herein combines in- gredients that result in a product capable of controlling skin oiliness for a period of up to eight hours.

The present aqueous sunscreen cosmetic composition comprises at least an emulsifying agent, at least a water-soluble sunscreen agent and at least a lipid-soluble sunscreen agent, or a mixture of said cosmetic agents.

In a preferable manner, the cosmetic composition does not have oil absorbing particles or comprises zero to seven percent in weight of oil absorbing particles.

In a preferential embodiment, the emulsifying agent used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in this invention is a polymeric agent, chosen from the group consisting of Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60; Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer; Polyacrylate-13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate; Polyacrylamide/ Laureth- 7/C 3-14 Isoparaffin; Sodium Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer/ Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 or a mixture of emulsifying agents. In general, the emulsifier or the mixture of emulsifiers comprises between 3% and 10% in weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a second preferential embodiment, the water-soluble sunscreen agent used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in this invention is chosen from the group consisting of Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb Aqua) or a mixture of water-soluble sunscreen agents. In general, the water-soluble sunscreen agent or the mixture of water-soluble sunscreen agents comprises between 5% and 20% in weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a third preferential embodiment, the lipid-soluble sunscreen agent used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in this invention is chosen from the group consisting of 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid; 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone Dioxybenzon; (2-Hydroxy-4- Methoxyphenyl)(2-Hydroxyphenyl) Methanone; 3-Benzylidene camphor; (1 ,3,5)-Triazine-2,4-bis((4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy)-phenyl)-6-(4- methoxyphenyl); 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1 ,3- dione; Benzoic acid, 2-[-4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl], hexylester; Ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl salicylate; 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-Hydroxybenzoate; 2-cyano-3,3- diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester; diethylbenzylidene malonate dimethicone or a mixture of lipid-soluble sunscreen agents. In general, the lipid-soluble sunscreen agent or the mixture of lipid-soluble sunscreen agents correspond to 5% to 20% in weight of the cosmetic composition.

Therefore, in a preferential embodiment, the relation between the emulsifying agent plus the water-soluble sunscreen agent to the lipid- soluble sunscreen agent comprises from 0.5% to 10.0%.

One or more conventional ingredients of cosmetic sunscreen compositions can be present in the composition, such as water, conditioning agent, fragrance agent, plant extract, moisturizer, antioxidant, emollient, hu- mectant, antimicrobial agent, agents that enable resistance to water, viscosi- ty agent, chelating agent, flavorant, sunscreen, preservative, neutralize^ emulsifier and cosmetically acceptable vehicles.

Example 1

In a first preferential embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic sun- screen composition of the present patent application has the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of used products) of approximately 5,870 CPs and approximately 6,400 CPs, and to the constituting ingredients disclosed in details on the table below, at the following proportions:

Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Pemulen TR1 0.12 viscosity agent

Crosspolymer

EDETA B (Tetrasodium

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 chelating agent EDTA)

Frescolat MGA Menthone glycerin acetal 0.14 flavorant

Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant

CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.5 emollient

COSMEDIA SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 viscosity agent

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium

Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copol¬

Simulgel INS - 100 1 viscosity agent ymer; Isohexadecane;

Polysorbate 60

DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic

NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO 7 sunscreen

Acid

Disodium Phenyl

NEO HELIOPAN AP 2 sunscreen

Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate

SUNQUART BC-50 Benzalkonium Chloride 0.194 preservative

Benzyl Alcohol Benzyl Alcohol 0.6 preservative

Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative

Sodium

ARISTOFLEX AVS Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Co1 viscosity agent polymer

Feverfew Cone. Enriched Chrysanthemum Parthenium

0.1 antioxidant Serum Fraction CMP-01A (Feverfew) Flower/Leaf/Sap

Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.07 fragrance

Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2 sunscreen

Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 1 sunscreen

Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunscreen

Uvinul A Plus Granular Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl 1 sunscreen Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

Hexyl Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizer

Polyacrylate13; Polyisobutene;

SEPIPLUS 400 1 viscosity agent

Polysorbate 20

Dimethicone; Dimethicone

VELVESIL # DM 3 viscosity agent

Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phos¬

STRUCTURE XL 1 viscosity agent phate

Water 66.226 vehicle

Example 2

In a second preferential embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition of this patent application has the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of products used) of approximately 13,500 CPs, approximately 11 ,800 CPs and approximately 18,300 CPs, and to the constituting ingredients disclosed in details on the table below, at the respective proportions:

Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

Aery lates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Pemulen TR1 0.12 viscosity agent

Crosspolymer

ED ETA B (Tetrasodium

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 chelating agent EDTA)

Frescolat MGA Menthone glycerin acetal 0.14 flavorant

Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant

CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.5 emollient

COSMEDIA SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 viscosity agent

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium

Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copol¬

Simulgel INS - 100 1 viscosity agent ymer; Isohexadecane;

Polysorbate 60

DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic

NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO 7 sunscreen

Acid

Disodium Phenyl

NEO HELIOPAN AP 5 sunscreen

Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate

SUNQUART BC-50 Benzalkonium Chloride 0.194 preservative

Alcool Benzilico Benzyl Alcohol 0.6 preservative

Fenoxietanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative

Sodium

ARISTOFLEX AVS Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Co1 viscosity agent polymer Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

Feverfew Cone. Enriched Chrysanthemum Parthenium

0.1 antioxidant Serum Fraction C P-01A (Feverfew) Flower/Leaf/Sap

Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.12 fragrance

Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2 sunscreen

Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 1 sunscreen

Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunscreen

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl sunscreen

Uvinul A Plus Granular 4.5

Hexyl Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizer

Polyacrylate13; Polyisobutene;

SEPIPLUS 400 1 viscosity agent

Polysorbate 20

Dimethicone; Dimethicone

VELVESIL # DM 3 conditioning agent

Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phos¬

STRUCTURE XL 1 viscosity agent phate

Water Water 58.376 vehicle

Brij 721 Steareth-21 0.5 emulsifier

Water; Butylene glycol; Portuconditioning agent

Portulaca Extract 0.3

laca Extract Oleracea

Capryloyl Glycine; Sarcosine; conditioning agent

Sepicontrol A5

Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark 0.5

extract

Example 3

In a third preferential embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present patent application has the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of used products) of approximately 7,176 CPs and approximately 8,554 CPs, and to the constituting ingredients disclosed in details on the table below, at the following proportions:

Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Pemulen TR1 0,12 viscosity agent

Crosspolymer

EDETA B (Tetrasodium

Tetrasodium EDTA 0,05 chelating agent EDTA)

Frescolat MGA Menthone glycerin acetal 0,14 flavorant

Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant

CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.5 emoliente

COSMEDIA SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 viscosity agent

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium

Simulgel INS - 100 1 viscosity agent

Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copoly- Trademark Nomenclature INCI Qt% Function

mer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate

60

DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent

NEO HELIOPAN HYPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic

7 sunscreen

DRO Acid

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole

NEO HELIOPAN AP 5 sunscreen

Tetrasulfonate

SUNQUART BC-50 Benzalkonium Chloride 0.194 preservative

Alcool Benzilico Benzyl Alcohol 0.6 preservative

Fenoxietanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative

Sodium

ARISTOFLEX AVS AcryloyldimethyltaurateA/P Copol1 viscosity agent ymer

Feverfew Cone. En¬

Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feriched Serum Fraction 0.1 antioxidant

verfew) Flower/Leaf/Sap

CMP-01A

Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.12 fragrance

Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2 sunscreen

Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 1 sunscreen

Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunscreen

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl sunscreen

Uvinul A Plus Granular 4.5

Hexyl Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizer

Polyacrylate13; Polyisobutene;

SEPIPLUS 400 1 viscosity agent

Polysorbate 20

Dimethicone; Dimethicone

VELVESIL # DM 3 conditioning agent

Crosspolymer

STRUCTURE XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 1 viscosity agent

Water 57.876 vehicle

Brij 721 Steareth-21 0.5 emulsifier

Water; Butylene glycol; Portulaca conditioning agent

Portulaca Extract 0.3

Extract Oleracea

Capryloyl Glycine; Sarcosine; conditioning agent

Sepicontrol A5

Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark 1

extract

can be seen in the comparative analysis of the non limitative three preferential embodiments abovementioned, most constituting elements are present in all compositions, once they are necessary to ensure all desired effects in the final product, such as efficient protection from UVA and UVB sunrays, easy spreading and absorption by the skin, control of the user's skin oiliness for up to eight hours, among others. Thus, regardless of the special constitution of the composition, it shall be ensured that the viscosity of the resulting composition takes on values that define it as serum, namely, from 3,500 and 20,000 CPs, more preferably around 6,000 CPs, which maximizes the effects intended and desired by the user.

Furthermore, it is worth noting that the analysis of the three tables clearly shows that the vehicle used is water, exactly due to its properties of viscosity and lack of oily elements. Besides, water is inert, colorless and odorless. Other vehicles with density similar to water, such as ethyl alcohol and glycerin, have properties that can be undesirable and might not allow the composition to control the skin oiliness of the user for up to eight hours.

Anyway, this is a composition included in the protection scope of the claims attached to the one which uses other necessary or desirable vehicle in order to, in combination with one or more viscosity agents, ensure a viscosity value that makes it possible define it as serum.

In a preferential embodiment, the composition of the present sunscreen is prepared in two phases, namely: aqueous phase and oily phase, which are later mixed in the emulsification phase.

Aqueous Phase: In an appropriate container, add the water, the tetrasodium EDTA and stir. Keep strongly stirring and add the Acrylates/C10- 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, glycerin and sodium hydroxide. While still stirring, add the Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid and the Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate. Stir until a homogeneous solution and without clots is formed. Add the Sodium Polyacrylate, keep stirring and add the Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. Start heating it while stirring. When it reaches a temperature higher than 60°C, add Dimethicone; Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

Oily Phase: In an appropriate container, weight the following components: Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, homosalate, dimethicone, phenoxyethanol and steareth 21. Start heating it while stirring.

When both phases reach 75°C, keep stirring it, keep the temper- ature and add the oily phase on the aqueous phase. Add, while stirring, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60. Keep stirring it and add Sodium AcryloyldimethyltaurateA P Copolymer. Keep stirring it and add Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20. Start cooling it. When the temperature is approximately 40° C or less, add the menthone glycerin acetal. While still stirring it, add the benzyl alcohol and the Benzalkonium Chloride. Keep stirring it and add the portulaca extract, the feverfew, the fragrance and the Capryloyl Glycine, Sarcosine and Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract. Check the pH and viscosity. End of the process.

The patent protection scope of also comprises a cosmetic method for application of the composition disclosed in the present invention, defined by the steps of applying a cosmetically effective amount of said composition and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed on the skin.

Moreover, the application provides a cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness, which includes applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition previously defined and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed in the skin.

As regards the protection against UVA and UVB rays, the present application provides a cosmetic method to protect the skin from the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation, comprising the steps of applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition previously defined and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed on the skin.

Finally, the scope of the application encompasses the use of the composition as defined for the preparation of a sunscreen, as well as a cosmetic product that comprises a composition as defined in claims 1 to 12.

To attest the efficacy of the sunscreen developed in the present invention, four tests with consumers were developed and the results thereof are described below.

1. Comparative Test - Sensorial Perception of Sunscreen SPF 30

To attest the efficiency of the cosmetic composition described in the preferential embodiment of this application, the Comparative Test of Sensorial Perception of Sunscreen SPF 30 assessed the sensorial perception of sunscreen called herein "Serum SPF 30" and compared its performance with another sunscreen, in the form of conventional emulsion, sold at the market with SPF 30, called herein "Control SPF 30".

The comparative test was performed with one hundred volunteers, and the criterion for recruitment established the participation of women aged between 30 and 50 years, who used facial sunscreen everyday and had normal and/or oily skin, with white skin and light brown skin (phototype II, III and IV).

Participants received, randomly, only one sample of one of the products to be used within one week, thus replacing the facial sunscreen that they were used to apply. After one week, the volunteers answered a questionnaire about the sunscreen used during this period.

Sunscreen "Serum SPF 30" was positively assessed when compared to sunscreen "Control SPF 30" (75% vs. 54%), showing better performance in features such as appearance (84% vs. 55%), texture (85% vs. 61%), immediate hydration (70% vs. 40%) and pleasant sensation after application (65% vs. 45%).

2. Efficacy Test - SPF 35

Test SPF 35 was carried out in order to assess the performance of the sunscreen developed by the holder of this patent application, prepared with a new formulation that extends its sun protection factor, being called herein "Serum SPF 35".

Sunscreen "Serum FPS 35" comprises a composition with no oil absorbing particles or a composition with these particles up to 7% in weight, containing polymeric structure, with protection against UVA and UVB rays and active ingredients such as conditioning agents of the skin (Sepicontrol A5 and Portulaca extract) which help fighting acne. Additionally, sunscreen "Serum SPF 35" does not contain paraben (preservative) and oxybenzone (lipid-soluble sunscreen) in its formulation.

The test was performed with fifty five volunteers who accepted to use the sunscreen for two weeks. The result showed that the "Serum SPF 35" was positively assessed under several criteria, standing out in oiliness control (80%), fragrance (78%) and consistency (62%).

3. Comparative Test of Efficacy in Oiliness Control

To attest the efficacy in oiliness control in the composition of the sunscreen developed in view of the products sold at the market, the holder of this patent application carried out a comparative test among sunscreens for the line of facial treatment, called herein "Control SPF 30" (traditional emulsion), "Serum SPF 30" and "Serum SPF 35".

The test was performed with thirty volunteers, men and women, aged between 22 and 53 years. The following individuals were not able to take part in the test: applicants with history of skin reactions to toiletry for skin care or known allergies, or also sensitiveness to ingredients of the product that was being tested. Furthermore, the following participants were ex- eluded from the test: those who were under facial dermatological treatment, those who showed preexisting or dormant dermatological conditions on the forehead (eczema, psoriasis, eruptions, etc.), those who were participating in other efficacy studies or who planned to participate in another efficacy study during the period of 24 hours, pregnant applicants or those who were breast- feeding and the volunteers classified by the examiner as inapt to conclude the study.

The criterion for recruitment established that, two days before the tests began, participants should stop using any astringent or scrubbing product, lotions, moisturizers, creams, etc., on the region of the forehead. On the day of the test, the volunteers were instructed to not wash the forehead and to refrain the use of moisturizers, oils, sunscreens, etc.

The measurement of oiliness of each site of the skin was obtained by an examiner duly qualified in the segment, using appropriate equipment for said purpose - Sebumeter^® S850. Such equipment generates a result measured by sebum measurement which, in turn, reveals the quantity of secretion of sebum on the skin. The principle of the measurement is based on the photometric method in which transparence of the photocell generated by contact with sebum is measured. The transmission of light represents the content of sebum on the surface of the assessed area.

The assessment of oiliness occurred in an air-conditioner room with temperature between 20°C and 24°C and relative humidity from 45°C to 55°C. All volunteers were maintained under this condition for at least 15 minutes before the readings in all times of measurement.

After the volunteers spent 15 minutes in an air-conditioner room, the examiner randomly delineated two assessment sites of 2.5 x 4 cm on the volunteers' forehead, using a surgery pen. A basal measurement was ob- tained and the sites were washed with 0.1 ml of residue free soap bar during 30 seconds massaging and 30 seconds rinsing. After 5 minutes, new measurements were obtained. The application of the products was randomly made by the trained examiner, at the amount of 2 mg/cm². Subsequently, the volunteers were instructed to be extremely careful to not rub or touch the ar- ea of test during all the assessment.

The measurements were obtained from the skin in both sites: without treatment (W/T) and with application of the tested product, in the periods after 5 minutes from rinsing, and after 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours and 8 hours after application of the product being tested.

The results are shown on the respective tables below, in which the values of the Average correspond to the average of the sebum measurement values from the ten volunteers assessed in each test, and the values of the Deviation correspond to the average of the respective standard deviation values:

Table 1 - Sebum Measurement Values - Product "Control SPF 30"

Considering the oiliness values of both sites without treatment (W/T) and with application of the tested product

(C.SPF 30), demonstrated on table 1 and Figure 1 , the site treated with product "Control SPF 30" had no reduction of skin oiliness for eight hours, when compared to the site without treatment (p>0.05).

Table 2 - Sebum Measurement Values - Product "Serum SPF 30"

Considering the oiliness values of both sites without treatment (W T) and with application of the tested product (S.SPF 30), demonstrated on Table 2 and Figure 2, the site treated with product "Serum SPF 30" showed reduction of skin oili-

ness for eight hours, with statistical difference when compared to the site without treatment (p<0.05).

Table 3 - Sebum Measurement Values - Product "Serum SPF 35"

Considering the oiliness values of both sites without treatment (W/T) and with application of the tested product (S.SPF 35), demonstrated on Table 3 and Figure 3, the site treated with product "Serum SPF 35" showed reduction of skin oiliness for eight hours, h statistical difference when compared to the site without treatment (p<0.05).

In view of the results obtained in the Comparative Test of Efficacy in Oiliness Control, it is concluded that:

- Facial sunscreen "Control SPF 30" (as conventional emulsion) did not show oiliness control for eight hours when compared to the site with- out treatment;

- Facial sunscreen "Serum SPF 30" (as serum) showed oiliness control for eight hours with statistical difference when compared to the site without treatment; and

- Facial sunscreen "Serum SPF 35" (as serum) showed oiliness control for eight hours with statistical difference when compared to the site without treatment.

After describing examples of preferred embodiments, it shall be understood that the scope of the present invention encompasses other possible variations, being limited only by the contents of the attached claims, where the possible equivalents are included.

Claims

1. Aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition characterized in that it comprises:

a. at least one emulsifying agent;

b. at least one water-soluble sunscreen agent;

c. at least one lipid-soluble sunscreen agent;

wherein said composition comes in the form of serum and comprises zero to seven percent in weight of oil absorbing particles.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the emulsifying agent is a polymeric agent.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymeric emulsifying agent is chosen from the group consisting of Acry- lates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryioyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60; Sodium AcryloyldimethyltaurateA P Copolymer; Polyacrylate-13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate; Polyacrylamide/ Laureth-7/C13-14 Isoparaffin; Sodium Acrylate/ Sodium Acryioyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer/ Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 or a mixture of polymeric emulsifying agents.

4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymeric emulsifying agent comprises from 3% to 10% in weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the water-soluble agent is chosen from the group consisting of Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb Aqua) or a mixture of water-soluble agents.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the water-soluble agent comprises from 5% to 20% in weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the lipid-soluble agent is chosen from the group consisting of 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid; 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone Dioxybenzon; (2-Hydroxy-4- Methoxyphenyl)(2-Hydroxyphenyl) Methanone; 3-Benzylidene camphor; (1 ,3,5)-Triazine-2,4-bis((4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy)-phenyl)-6-(4- methoxyphenyl); 1 -(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1 ,3- dione; Benzoic acid, 2-[-4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl], hexylester; Ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl salicylate; 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-Hydroxybenzoate; 2-cyano-3,3- diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexyl Ester; Diethylbenzylidene Malonate Dimethicone or a mixture of lipid-soluble agents.

8. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the lipid-soluble agent comprises from 5% to 20% in weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the ratio between the emulsifying agent plus the water-soluble sunscreen agent to the lipid-soluble sunscreen agent is from 0.5% and 10.0%.

10. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that it is used on the skin of the face.

11. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that it has sun protection factor between 2 and 60.

12. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that it has viscosity within an interval from 3,500 to 20,000 CPs.

13. Cosmetic method for application of a composition as defined in claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of said composition and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed on the skin.

14. Cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness, char- acterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 12 and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed on the skin.

15. Cosmetic method to protect the skin against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation characterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition defined in claims 1 to 12 and immediately spreading it until a homogeneous coat is formed on the skin.

16. Use of a composition as defined in claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is meant to prepare sunscreen.

17. Cosmetic product characterized in that it comprises a composition as defined in claims 1 to 12.

18. Invention, in any forms of its embodiments or in any applicable category of claim, for instance, of product or method or use encompassed by the matter initially described, disclosed or illustrated in the patent application.