WO2013093890A2

WO2013093890A2 - Method for making up the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2013093890A2
Application number: PCT/IB2012/057643
Authority: WO
Inventors: Henri Samain; Franck Giron
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-12-23
Filing date: 2012-12-21
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: WO2013093890A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for making up the skin (P) comprising the step consisting in subjecting a foundation composition (1) comprising a pigment, preferably an iron oxide, applied to the skin (P) to a chemical and/or energy stimulus so as to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief and/or colour of the skin.

Description

Method for making up the skin

The present invention relates to making up the skin.

Background

The skin is not a smooth surface of uniform colour, and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, scars and dry zones, which form a somewhat bumpy surface.

Furthermore, its colour varies on various scales, with blemishes or dyschromias, the differences in colour being sometimes relatively small.

Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a whole surface that is pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is judged to be unattractive.

This may stem from a few extra reliefs, or from dyschromias greater than those usually observed. For example, when the pores are slightly more enlarged than in the average case, this tends to render the surface unattractive. Likewise when the dyschromias are broad and/or contrasting.

This may also stem from the fact that the irregularities are poorly distributed. For example, freckles are quite attractive. However, an uneven or asymmetric distribution may make the whole surface rather unattractive.

The irregularities may also be of unequal sizes.

Sometimes, a single irregularity may make the whole of the surface unattractive. For example, a coloured blemish on one cheek may detract from the beauty of the face.

The application of a foundation is the most effective approach for beautifying uneven skin by making it possible to hide blemishes and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of small reliefs such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal spots and traces of acne.

However, the presence of a foundation may cause the natural appearance of the skin to be lost, in particular when the product used gives high coverage.

Foundations contain covering particles that provide a colour. Thus, the manufacturers offer these products in various colour variants, giving the user the possibility of finding the product that corresponds to her the best, in particular of choosing a shade close to that of her skin. Another difficulty linked to the use of a foundation is that, by applying the product, all of the irregularities are concealed, namely those that are a nuisance, but also others that it would be nice to keep, which can impart an artificial appearance to the skin.

Formulators have tried to resolve this problem by producing compositions with lower coverage. The transparency of these compositions minimizes the artificial appearance of the skin. However, the user is only partly satisfied with the concealing result.

It is difficult to depart from this logic of compromise between concealing and transparency.

One possibility would be to only apply the product to the imperfection, but this potential solution is very limited in the current state, as it applies only to people who have only small imperfections to cover. Furthermore, it is necessary for these imperfections to be small in number, it being understood that it is tedious to apply the product to a multitude of small zones.

Finally, if the product is only applied to one zone, demarcation problems are created. Obtaining natural or invisible blending requires a lot of mastery. Thus, this solution is not really realistic and therefore most people apply the product to the whole of the face.

Also known is the solution proposed by FR 2 942 402, which aims to create freckles by irradiating a deposited layer of photodevelopable composition.

There is a need to obtain, in a simple manner, a makeup effect that makes it possible to obtain concealing of imperfections while giving the made-up skin a predefined appearance, especially a natural appearance.

The invention aims to meet this need.

Summary

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a method for making up the skin, especially the face, comprising the step consisting in subjecting a foundation composition comprising a pigment, preferably an iron oxide, applied to the skin to a chemical and/or energy stimulus so as to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief and/or colour of the skin. The invention advantageously makes it possible to recreate, on the made-up surface, a natural or idealized appearance of the skin, despite the presence of the foundation.

The invention advantageously makes it possible to create a relatively set makeup effect that transfers relatively little.

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the foundation composition dries rapidly, for example in less than 20 min on the skin, via the use of volatile solvents and/or of a high concentration of solids, and/or via the use of film- forming compounds.

By way of example, the foundation composition will advantageously comprise volatile compounds (hydrocarbon solvents, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils) representing more than 50%, or more than 80% by weight, or more than 90% by weight of the solvent phase. This high proportion of volatile solvents may make it possible to obtain rapid drying of the composition on the face and less transfer. Nevertheless, a drying time of this foundation composition that is long enough in order to be able to work it by the application of the stimulus before the drying thereof may be sought.

The foundation composition may in addition comprise, advantageously, at least one film-forming compound (for example: silicone resins, poly aery lates, latex, acrylate dendrimer silicones or reactive silicones) making it possible to improve the wear property of said compositions on the skin, and, consequently, to impart a better transfer resistance.

The pattern created reproduces, preferably, the appearance of the user's natural skin texture or a predefined skin texture. The expression "skin texture" should be understood to mean the appearance visible to the naked eye produced by the irregularities in the relief of the skin. The pattern created may reproduce the appearance of the user's natural freckles or of predefined freckles.

The expression "foundation composition" should be understood to mean a covering makeup product.

The covering function may be given by aggregated or non-aggregated particles, typically of the size of a few hundreds of nanometres to a few tens of μιη.

These particles may be included initially in the foundation composition or be obtained extemporaneously by a conversion, for example by crystallization following evaporation of solvent (in the case of a salt), by change in temperature (in the case of a wax or of a semicrystalline polymer), or by chemical conversion (for example reaction between a carbonate and a divalent ion).

The chemical and/or energy stimulus makes it possible, preferably, to form a discontinuous network of islands that locally modify the appearance of the makeup so as to create the desired pattern.

The stimulus is, preferably, a light stimulus and leads to the creation of a pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief of the skin, particularly preferably the appearance of a skin texture.

In particular, in the case of a light stimulus, the appearance of irregularities other than freckles can be reproduced.

As a variant, the stimulus is a chemical and/or non- light energy stimulus. In this case, the stimulus is, for example, a chemical and/or thermal and/or mechanical stimulus.

In one particularly preferred variant, the stimulus is a chemical stimulus.

In one exemplary embodiment, a coloured layer of makeup composition is applied to the skin before application of the foundation composition and the foundation composition is applied over all or part of this layer before being subjected to the stimulus.

As will be explained in detail below, the fact of being subjected to the stimulus may make it possible to locally modify the coverage, especially the thickness, of the layer of foundation in order to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

As a variant, the foundation composition is brought into contact with the skin. In one exemplary embodiment, the stimulus is applied by an applicator comprising an application surface that comes into contact with the deposited layer of foundation composition, and:

a) the applicator comprising an assembly of zones enabling the application of the stimulus, the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, which is (are) obtained being linked to the arrangement of said zones on the surface, said zones present on the surface of the applicator being constituted in particular by an assembly of heating elements and/or irradiators and/or elements that have a property of releasing a chemical reagent or a solvent, and/or b) the applicator being brought into contact, in a spatially non-uniform manner, with the foundation in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands.

As a variant, the stimulus is applied at a distance from the deposited layer of foundation so as to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, the method comprising in particular, before application of the stimulus, a step of placing an openwork screen opposite the deposited layer of foundation composition and a device for application of the stimulus applying the stimulus through said screen, the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, which is (are) obtained being linked to the arrangement of the openings in said screen.

The invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic device having a peripheral surface comprising islands positioned non-uniformly in a surrounding surface, said islands each having a larger dimension of at least 0.8 mm and having a shape and/or properties for capturing and/or releasing a product present on the skin or to be applied thereto that are different to those of the surrounding surface, so as to lead to the creation on the skin of a pattern, the appearance of which is linked to the arrangement of the islands over the peripheral surface.

The device advantageously makes it possible to recreate on the skin a natural or idealized appearance of the skin.

Thus, a makeup effect, using a foundation that is optionally relatively covering, advantageously appears less artificial after use of the device on the made-up surface.

In a variant, the pattern created is different from a pattern of a beauty spot. In a variant, the pattern created is not created by a light interference phenomenon.

The device according to the invention makes it possible to create the desired makeup effect in a relatively simple manner.

The expression "cosmetic device" should be understood to mean that the device is compatible with being brought into contact with human keratin materials. The device may be intended to be brought into contact with a deposited layer of foundation composition present on the skin in order to create the desired pattern on said deposited layer of foundation.

The islands may be in relief and may form a projection with respect to the surrounding surface. In this will be explained in detail below, the islands may, by being brought into contact with a makeup composition applied to the skin, make it possible to locally displace said makeup composition in order to obtain the desired pattern.

In this case, the release or capturing of product may originate from the affinity of this product for the islands.

In one exemplary embodiment, the islands have physicochemical properties that are different from those of the surrounding surface.

Preferably, the islands comprise, in particular consist of, adhesive and/or absorbent islands, in particular deposited layers of adhesive composition and/or of absorbent composition.

It is possible to use, as adhesive composition, at least one of the following products: an oily, and in particular thick, deposited layer, optionally having a viscosity between 2 Pa.s and 200 Pa.s, a polymer or material combining polymer and plasticizer, the Tg of which is below 10°C, optionally below 4°C, and/or pressure-sensitive adhesives (PSAs).

More particularly, it is possible to use, as material constituting the deposited layers of adhesive composition, elastomers, to which it is possible to add a plasticizer or a solvent suitable for lowering the Tg. These elastomers may be acrylic or methacrylic polymers or acrylic or methacrylic copolymers, uncrosslinked or weakly crosslinked rubbers, or copolymers based on styrenes, butadiene, butylene and isoprene. In particular, it is possible to use styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS), styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene (SEBS), styrene- ethylene/propylene (SEP) and styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS).

The use of thick oils and of pressure-sensitive adhesives may be advantageous for removing material if the foundation is relatively dry or powdery. The expression "relatively dry" is understood to mean that the coating is not oily to the touch.

The deposited layers of absorbent composition make it possible, preferably, to remove the foundation by capillary action. It is possible, in this case, to use absorbent compositions comprising, in particular consisting of, a fabric (assembly of fibres that will remove foundation between the fibres), cardboard or a flocked support. It is also possible to locally absorb foundation by using absorbent islands in the form of one or more opening(s) or one or more void(s).

The flocked support may comprise an assembly of fibres held at one end.

These fibres preferably have a diameter between 2 and 200 μιη and a length between 0.2 mm and 5 mm.

These fibres may preferably comprise, in particular be constituted of, a polymer, preferably polyamide, preferably polyamide 6-6 (nylon®). It is possible to use a mixture of fibres of various sizes, for example a mixture of fibres of 200 μιη and of 10 μιη in diameter.

When the absorbent islands comprise one or more opening(s) or void(s), the diameter and depth of the latter may be between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.

The deposited layers of absorbent composition may be in the form of reliefs, in particular made of cardboard or of elastomeric material having a Young's modulus of less than or equal to 100 MPa. These reliefs have, for example, a height of between 1 and 5 mm and a size, measured at the tip, of between 0.3 mm and 5 mm. The average spacing between two adjacent reliefs may be between 0.1 mm and 1 mm.

It is also possible, preferably, to use absorbent islands that make it possible to remove the foundation by a surface tension effect. In this case, the absorbent islands may have a high surface tension, for example of greater than 40 mN/m. The absorbent islands that make it possible to remove the foundation by a surface tension effect may, for example, be made of metal, especially of iron, of metal oxide or ceramic oxide, or polymeric oxide, their surface tension may be greater than that of the skin and greater than that of the foundation composition.

It is possible, as a variant, to use absorbent fillers, such as hydrophilic materials, such as magnesia powder or hollow materials, such as pozzolan powder or a ceramic or sintered materials.

As oil-absorbing fillers, mention may in particular be made of:

silica powders such as porous silica microspheres, polydimethylsiloxane- coated amorphous silica microspheres, silica silylate powders, especially those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by Dow Corning and under the name ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100 by CABOT, hollow particles of amorphous silicas, precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax,

acrylic polymer powders, such as: porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders,

polyamide powders, such as: nylon-6 powder,

perlite powders, magnesium carbonate powders,

and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred variant, the hydrophilicity of the islands may be different to that of the surrounding surface.

Thus, the islands may be configured to enable the removal of a product, in particular foundation, applied to the skin during their coming into contact with the latter.

This removal of product advantageously makes it possible to obtain the desired pattern.

The islands may be defined with the aid of pins that can be moved relative to the surrounding surface. These pins are, for example, defined by electrically driven actuators.

The use of pins that can be moved relative to the surrounding surface advantageously makes it possible to modify the distribution of the islands. The user can thus, within the context of the invention, personalize the arrangement of the islands within the device in order to obtain on her skin the pattern of her choosing, for example a particular desired skin texture and/or particular desired freckles. In one exemplary embodiment, the islands may be defined by grains of a product that can be transferred to the skin and/or by a liquid. The product may in this case advantageously be coloured. The liquid may make it possible to capture, on the peripheral surface, a product that is then transferred to the skin. As a variant, the liquid is transferred to the skin, being in this case preferably coloured.

The device may comprise islands having a larger dimension greater than or equal to 2 mm, and/or islands having a larger dimension greater than or equal to 3 mm.

The device may comprise both islands having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm, islands having a larger dimension between 2 mm (limit excluded) and 3 mm and islands having a larger dimension between 3 mm (limit excluded) and 5 mm.

The number of islands having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm may be greater than the number of islands having a larger dimension between 2 mm (limit excluded) and 3 mm and greater than the number of islands having a larger dimension between 3 mm (limit excluded) and 5 mm.

The device may comprise islands of circular contour and/or islands of non- circular contour. The device may comprise islands that are touching and islands that are separate.

The device may comprise islands of circular contour in a number greater than that of the islands of non-circular contour.

The device may comprise adjacent islands, the spacing between which is greater than or equal to 2 mm.

Another subject of the invention is a makeup kit comprising a device as defined above and a block of a product that enables the device to be loaded with the product to be applied to the skin.

This assembly may comprise a device and a master surface enabling the islands to be created on the peripheral surface, in particular a master surface having zones loaded with product and others devoid of product.

A further subject of the invention is a makeup kit comprising:

a plurality of devices as defined above that differ due to the arrangement of the islands on their peripheral surface, and

a block of a product that enables at least one of said devices to be loaded with the product to be applied to the skin. Thus, the invention advantageously enables a user to choose the pattern that she desires to create on her skin by selecting a particular device within such an assembly.

A further subject of the invention is a method for making up the skin, comprising a step of displacing and/or capturing a product present on the skin and/or a step of applying a product to the skin using a device as defined above, for creating visible zones, the distribution of which corresponds to that of the islands on the peripheral surface.

The use of the device according to the invention makes it possible, preferably, to form a discontinuous network of visible zones so as to create the desired pattern.

The visible zones may be created by transfer of a product to the skin, which product comprises, preferably, an agent of red coloration.

The visible zones may also be created by removal of product on the skin, the skin having received beforehand the application of a product, preferably a foundation.

The method may comprise the prior application, to the skin, of a foundation. The device may then be used after the deposition of a layer of foundation, in order to reproduce the appearance of a skin texture and/or of freckles on the made-up surface.

The treatment using the device is preferably carried out without sliding of the peripheral surface over the optionally made-up skin and, particularly preferably, by rolling the peripheral surface over the optionally made-up skin.

The device is, preferably, brought into contact with a deposited layer of foundation present on the skin and displaced relative to the latter in order to locally remove the foundation and obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones, that is (are) desired.

In this case, the peripheral surface comprises, particularly preferably, islands that have properties for capturing the foundation present on the skin that are different to those of the surrounding surface.

In one preferred variant, the device is brought into contact with a deposited layer of foundation present on the skin and displaced relative to the latter in order to locally displace said foundation.

In this case, the islands of the device are in relief and form a projection with respect to the surrounding surface so that bringing them into contact with the foundation makes it possible to locally displace the latter in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones, that is (are) desired. These reliefs have, for example, a height of between 1 and 5 mm and a diameter, measured at the tip, of between 0.3 mm and 5 mm.

In one preferred variant, the device is brought into contact with a deposited layer of foundation present on the skin and displaced relative to the latter in order to apply, on the foundation, a product so as to form a discontinuous deposited layer of visible zones and/or in order to apply, on the foundation, a product comprising visible bodies that give it a non-uniform appearance,

said product having optical properties that locally modify the appearance of the makeup so as to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief and/or colour of the skin.

Light stimulus

In one exemplary embodiment, the foundation composition is subjected to light radiation, especially UV radiation, said foundation composition comprising:

a) a photodevelopable agent capable of changing appearance under the effect of said light radiation, and/or

b) a photocrosslinkable compound capable of crosslinking under the effect of said light radiation.

Photodevelopable agent

As mentioned above, the foundation composition may comprise one or more photodevelopable agents.

The expression "photodevelopable agent" should be understood to mean a compound that changes appearance under the effect of light radiation, irreversibly or reversibly.

The foundation composition comprises, preferably, one or more thermally stable photodevelopable agents.

The thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s) used may be thermally stable photochromic agents, or photodevelopable agents that are irreversible, i.e. once the change in appearance is obtained, this change remains permanent.

In one exemplary embodiment, the light radiation applied, for example UV and/or near UV (400-440 nm) radiation, makes it possible to gradually develop this or these thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s) in order to form the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands.

As a variant, the foundation composition comprises, before being subjected to light radiation, one or more thermally stable photodevelopable agents in the already developed state, the light radiation, for example visible radiation not including near UV radiation, making it possible to bring this (these) agent(s) to an undeveloped state in order to form the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands.

The fact of being subjected to the light stimulus may produce both, for example successively or alternately, a development of one or more thermally stable photodevelopable agents and a suppression of one or more thermally stable photodevelopable agents, so as to obtain precisely the desired result.

As a variant, the foundation composition is applied to the skin with the thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s) in the undeveloped state, then the latter are brought to a developed state, and radiation is then applied selectively to change the thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s), for example in a localized manner, to the undeveloped state, so as to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, that is (are) desired.

The foundation composition may be applied with the thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s) in the developed state, and the latter are brought to an undeveloped state selectively, so as to form the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, that is (are) desired.

The foundation composition may comprise a thermally stable photodevelopable agent that makes it possible for example to generate a colour in the developed state, and that is for example colourless in the undeveloped state, or a mixture of thermally stable photodevelopable agents producing different respective colours in the developed state and having another colour or being colourless in the undeveloped state.

Measurement of the thermal stability of a photodevelopable agent

The test for determining whether a photodevelopable agent is thermally stable is the following. The agent to be tested, initially of colour Ei in the undeveloped state, is subjected to an irradiation by UV radiation for 1 minute at 1 J/cm², then its final colour E_f is determined using a spectrocolorimeter, for example that of the brand MINOLTA CM 2002 (d/8, SCI, D65, 2° observer); a colour difference AE_iif = ■yj(a_f - a_; )² + (b_f - b_; )² + (L_f - L_; )² is obtained in the CIELab space, which corresponds to the maximum development. Said compound is then left in total darkness for 60 minutes at 25°C, then its colour E_r is determined again according to the above method. When the new value of ΔΕ_ίιΓ is at least equal to 50% of the value of AEi,_f corresponding to the maximum development, the compound is considered to be thermally stable. Preferably, the thermally stable photodevelopable agent is chosen so that, once developed, the appearance obtained can be retained visually for more than one hour, better still for more than four hours.

The foundation composition may be devoid of thermally reversible photochromic compounds, such as doped titanium oxide, spiropyrans, spirooxazines or chromenes, except if certain forms of these compounds fall under the definition of thermally stable photodevelopable agents.

The thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s) that may be used are advantageously such that under a first irradiation I_{l s} this or these agent(s) are developed by becoming coloured, starting from a substantially colourless, or weakly coloured state, and under a second irradiation I₂ different from the first, this or these agent(s) again become(s) substantially colourless, or weakly coloured. The irradiation Ii is, in exemplary embodiments of the invention, a UV (290 nm to 400 nm), especially UVA (320 to 400 nm) and/or UVB, better still near UV (400 to 440 nm) irradiation, whereas the irradiation I₂ is an irradiation in the visible spectrum, for example of white light.

Thermally stable photodevelopable agents

Among the photodevelopable agents that can be used, the compounds that belong to the family of diarylethenes and those that belong to the family of fulgides are preferred, this list not however being limiting. A person skilled in the art may refer to patent EP 938 887 which describes examples of thermally stable photodevelopable agents.

The diarylethenes may be represented by formula (I) below:

A B

in which the radicals Ri and R₂ are always in "cis" configuration with respect to the double bond. These radicals Ri and R₂ may be, independently of one another, chosen from optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated Ci-Ci₆ alkyl radicals, or nitriles.

Mention may in particular be made of the compounds having the following formula:

They may also form an optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular according to the following formula:

or form an anhydride ring containing 5 carbon atoms, and in particular according to the following formula:

in which X may be an oxygen atom or a radical -NR₃, with R₃ representing a C₂-Ci6 alkyl and/or hydroxyalkyl radical.

The radicals A and B may be identical or different and may represent, in particular, a ring containing 5 atoms or a bicyclic ring system containing 5 and 6 atoms, according to the following structures:

in which:

- X and Y may be identical or different and may represent an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atom bonded to a group that makes up the valency to 3, for example N-H or N-R with R denoting an alkyl optionally bearing a supplementary function (for example a fry droxy alky 1), or an oxidized form of sulfur, nitrogen or selenium,

- Z and W may be identical or different and may represent a carbon atom or a positively charged nitrogen atom (N+),

- the radicals R3 to R₁₂ may be identical or different and may represent a hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl or alkoxy group, a halogen, a linear or branched C1-C4 fluorinated or perfluorinated group, a carboxyl group, a C1-C16 alkylcarboxyl group, a C1-C16 monoalkylamino or dialkylamino group or a nitrile group; a phenyl or naphthalene group or a heterocycle (pyridine, quinoline, thiophene) can be substituted onto these radicals.

However, the groups A and B must not both be equal to a structure of indole type such as that below:

The groups A and B may be separated from the ring by one or two double bonds.

There must always be a group other than hydrogen, for example CH₃, CN or C0₂Et, on the ortho positions of the junction, between the double bond and the residues A and B, i.e. the groups R₃ or R₅, R4, R7 and Rs must be other than hydrogen.

By way of example, mention may be made of the following compound, which can change from colourless to red in the following manner, after irradiation at 404-436 nm (return at 546-578 nm):

One example of diarylethene is that of blue colour in the developed state, sold under the commercial reference: DAE-MP by Yamada Chemical (Japan), having the chemical name and formula: l ,2-bis(2-methyl-5-phenyl-3-thienyl)-3, 3,4,4,5, 5- hexafluorocyclopentene.

Another example of diarylethene is that of yellow colour in the developed state, of formula:

sold under the commercial reference: DAE-2BT by YAMADA CHEMICALS (Japan) and having the chemical name: l,2-bis(3-methylbenzo(b)thiophen-2- yl)perfluorocyclopentene .

The fulgides may be represented by the following formula:

in which:

. the group A has the same meaning as above,

. the groups Rn to R 5 may be identical or different and may represent a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl group, or else the groups R 3 and R 4 may form a ring containing from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, such as a cyclopropane or an adamantylene.

Other thermally stable photodevelopable agents

These photodevelopable compounds are compounds that change appearance, for example changing from a colourless or weakly coloured form to a coloured form, via a mechanism controlled by light irradiation.

The mechanism may be direct, in the sense that the light changes the appearance, for example changing from the colourless form to the coloured form. This is for example the case for compounds bearing a function referred to as a photodegradable or photorelease function.

Preferably, use is made of compounds having a photodegradable or photorelease function that is inert with respect to keratin materials. Preferably, use is made of a compound having a photodegradable or photorelease function that is immobilized or borne by a polymer or other solid or weighty structure.

For example, use may be made of the 3,5-dimethoxybenzoin function and the coloured products as they are described in the article: C. P. McCoy et al, J. Am. Chem. Soc, 2007, 129, 9572.

The aforementioned mechanism may also be indirect, in the sense that the light makes the compound, for example initially colourless, change into another form, then a third action converts this thus modified colourless compound into a form of different appearance, for example coloured appearance.

The mechanism is also indirect when a third action acts differently on the compound not modified by the light and on the modified compound, and when for example the unmodified compound is converted and changes appearance, becoming for example coloured, whilst the modified compound retains its appearance, for example colourless appearance.

For example, it is possible to use the diazotype principle, which involves a diazonium salt compound and another aromatic compound, capable of reacting via a coupling reaction. Irradiation destroys the diazonium salt (release of nitrogen). The diazonium compound that has not been irradiated then reacts via a simple jump in pH (in the presence of aqueous ammonia for example) with the coupler to give an azo compound. In this case, colourless diazonium salt compounds will be chosen, such as for example an aromatic compound bearing the diazonium function, but not bearing an amine or hydroxyl function on the ring. As coupler, a simple aromatic amine such as a derivative of aniline or phenol can be used.

It is then the non-irradiated arts that are developed, according to the reaction:

The photodevelopable agent(s) used may become thermally stable as soon as they are developed or only after a specific action has been exerted, for example bringing into contact with chemical compounds that confer the desired thermal stability. The foundation composition may contain, by weight, from 0.001 to 20% in total of photochromic agent(s), in particular of thermally stable photodevelopable agent(s).

The foundation composition may in addition contain any solvent suitable for the application in cosmetics, and in particular chosen from those mentioned in patent EP 938 887.

The foundation composition may comprise the ingredients listed in paragraphs [0029] to [0041] of EP 0 938 887 Al, the list of which is repeated here by reference.

Photocrosslinkable compound

The photocrosslinkable compound may, after crosslinking, produce a variation in the relief of the free surface of the deposited layer of foundation composition at the locations where the light stimulus was applied. The thickness of the deposited layer of foundation composition is, for example, reduced locally at the locations where the light stimulus was applied due to the crosslinking of the photocrosslinkable compound.

The pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, is (are), in this case, created due to variations in the relief of the free surface of the deposited layer of foundation composition that are produced.

When the foundation composition is applied to a coloured layer of makeup, the decrease in thickness which may be produced by the photocrosslinking may make it possible to locally reduce the coverage of the foundation composition so as to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

Thus, it is possible, for example, to locally modify the colour of the made-up surface due to the local reduction in the coverage of the foundation composition.

It is possible to use, as photocrosslinkable compound, stilbazolium polymers or a combination of an acrylate or methacrylate molecule and of a photoinitiator.

Chemical stimulus

Chemical reagent

In one exemplary embodiment, the foundation composition is brought into contact with a chemical reagent, enabling in particular the deposited layer of foundation to change colour and/or to undergo a modification of the shape of its free surface. This modification of the colour of the foundation and/or of the shape of its free surface may make it possible to form the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands, that is (are) desired.

Colour change

The foundation may change colour due to a reaction between the chemical reagent and a compound present in the foundation, said reaction being a Maillard reaction, preferably a reaction between an amine and dihydroxyacetone (DHA), or a redox reaction.

The foundation may, before being brought into contact with the chemical reagent, comprise dihydroxyacetone.

As a variant, the foundation may, before being brought into contact with the chemical reagent, comprise an amine.

The redox reaction may be due to bringing an oxidation dye into contact with an oxidizing agent. Use is made, for example, of a composition comprising benzene compounds bearing at least two functions chosen from amines and hydroxyls and/or heterocyclic aromatic compounds, such as a pyrazole, bearing at least one function chosen from amines and hydroxyls. These compositions may contain compounds capable of stabilizing the oxidation of benzene compounds and/or heterocyclic aromatic compounds. For example, reducing agents, such as mercaptans, such as thioglycolic or mercaptopropionic or thio lactic acid, or sulfites or derivatives, or non-mercaptan reducing agents such as ascorbic acid.

The foundation may, before being brought into contact with the chemical reagent, comprise an oxidation dye.

As a variant, the foundation may, before being brought into contact with the chemical reagent, comprise an oxidizing agent.

Release of a gas

The modification of the shape of the free surface of the deposited layer of foundation following the application of a chemical reagent may, as explained in detail below, be due to the release of a gas.

In one exemplary embodiment, the deposited layer of foundation undergoes a modification of the shape of its free surface due to the release of a gas produced by the reaction between the chemical reagent and the foundation. Said reaction may comprise a step of reaction between an acid and a carbonate or hydrogen carbonate ion, in particular releasing carbon dioxide.

In this case, the foundation composition comprises, preferably, particles of calcium or ammonium carbonate or hydrogen carbonate and the chemical reagent comprises an aqueous solution comprising an acid, preferably citric acid.

Variation in the volume of a compound

The modification of the shape of the free surface of the deposited layer of foundation owing to the application of a chemical reagent may, as explained in detail below, be due to a variation in the volume of a compound present within the foundation composition.

Local dissolving

The foundation composition may be brought into contact with a solvent that enables it to be dissolved locally in order to form the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of islands.

The dissolving of the foundation composition may make it possible to locally form islands where the thickness of the deposited layer of foundation is reduced.

The dissolving of the foundation composition may, in one exemplary embodiment, make it possible to obtain locally, within the foundation composition, islands that are devoid of foundation.

It is advantageously possible to locally dissolve the foundation composition when the latter is applied on a coloured layer of makeup as mentioned above.

Thus, the local dissolving of the foundation composition may make it possible to locally modify the coverage, especially the thickness, of the layer of foundation in order to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

The solvent may be chosen from ethers (dimethyl ether, methyl ethyl ether, diethyl ether), ketones (acetone), alkanes (hexane, octane, dodecane, etc.) and alcohols (ethanol, propanol, glycols). Preferably, the solvents are volatile and have a boiling point below 160°C at ambient pressure. Mechanical stimulus

The stimulus may comprise the application of a pressure and the foundation may comprise:

a) a tribochromic compound, and/or

b) a coloured compound encapsulated in pressure-sensitive particles.

Use may be made of tribochromic compounds such as the derivatives of furan described in the publication WO 9426729 or pyrazine derivatives such as 3-dicyclopropyl- methylene-5-dicyanomethylene-4-diphenylmethylenetetrahydrofuran-2-one.

Use may be made, as coloured compound encapsulated in pressure-sensitive particles, of pigments encapsulated in microcapsules which are both resistant to the other raw materials present in the composition and are soft enough to be able to be broken under shear during the application of the stimulus in order to thus deliver the expected colour.

The size of the microcapsules, i.e. their number-average diameter, may range for example from 5 to 3000 μιη, preferably from 10 to 1500 μιη, more preferably from 20 to 700 μιη.

The percentage of pigment relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment (total weight of the encapsulated pigment = weight of the capsule + weight of the pigment) may vary to a large extent. The amount of pigment may range, for example, from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight and more preferably still from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment.

The shells of the microcapsules may comprise one or more layers and be made from materials chosen, for example, from the following materials:

- heat-meltable compounds, the melting point of which is between 30°C and 70°C, preferably between 37°C and 45°C, for example such as those described in application US 2006/0292193 Al ; mention may also be made, by way of example, of the microcapsules constituted of jojoba esters, sold under the reference Florasome by Floratech, and described in patents US 6,432,428 and WO 2006/081351;

- polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates, and vinyl polymers. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the microcapsules based on an acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer that are sold by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd and are described in the publication WO 01/35933 and are sold under the names BLACKCAP 1©, YELLOWCAP1©, REDCAP 1©, BLACKCAP3©, YELLOWCAP3© and REDCAP3©;

- polysaccharides, for instance derivatives of cellulose, such as for example hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose; starch; chitosan; algins; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans; mention may in particular be made of those sold by Induchem under the name Unisphere© based on derivatives of cellulose;

- polyamides;

- copolymers based on styrene/acrylate, such microcapsules being sold under the name Coloursphere by Creations Couleurs;

- and mixtures thereof.

Thermal stimulus

In one exemplary embodiment, a heating member can be brought close to the foundation composition in order to locally increase its temperature, said foundation composition comprising:

a) a meltable compound, and/or

b) an expanded material, the volume of which can be modified under the action of heat.

The melting of the meltable compound may make it possible to locally form islands where the thickness of the deposited layer of foundation is reduced.

The melting of the meltable compound may, in one exemplary embodiment, make it possible to locally obtain, within the foundation composition, islands that are devoid of foundation.

It is advantageously possible to melt the meltable compound when the foundation composition is applied on a coloured layer of makeup as mentioned above.

Thus, the melting of the meltable compound may make it possible to locally modify the coverage, especially the thickness, of the layer of foundation in order to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

The meltable compound may be chosen from waxes or crystalline polymers. The increase in temperature may make it possible to locally reduce the volume of the expanded material.

The increase in temperature may make it possible to locally decrease the thickness of the deposited layer of foundation owing to the reduction in the volume of the expanded material.

The expanded material, the volume of which may be modified under the action of heat, may be chosen from the products sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel, formed of a plastic material containing a liquid that can, via a reasonable increase in the temperature (+30°C for example), be converted to a gaseous phase. When these particles are heated, they swell up and remain swollen.

Discontinuous network of islands

As mentioned above, the stimulus may advantageously make it possible to obtain a discontinuous network of islands.

The discontinuous network of islands may comprise islands that are touching and islands that are separate. As a variant, the discontinuous network of islands may be constituted of an assembly of separate islands.

The discontinuous network of islands satisfies, preferably, all or some of the following features:

a) the islands have an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm, particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and/or b) the average distance separating two adjacent islands is between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm, particularly preferably between 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, and/or

c) the discontinuous network comprises at least 5, preferably at least 10, preferably at least 30, particularly preferably at least 100, islands.

The size of an island corresponds to its largest dimension.

The average size of the islands corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the sizes of said islands.

The distance between two islands corresponds to the distance separating the barycentres of said islands. The average distance between two adjacent islands corresponds to the arithmetic mean, for the number of pairs of adjacent islands, of the distances separating two adjacent islands.

The sizes of islands and distances separating two islands are, unless otherwise mentioned, measured just after the stimulus (stimuli) has (have) stopped acting on the foundation composition.

The density of islands within the discontinuous network is preferably greater than 5 islands per cm² of surface area of skin covered by the foundation, and less than 1000 per cm².

A discontinuous network of islands having:

- islands with an average size between 0.4 mm and 4 mm,

- an average distance separating two adjacent islands of between 1 mm and 5 mm,

- a number of islands of greater than 1 per cm²,

is preferably obtained in order to form a pattern that reproduces the appearance of freckles.

The islands are preferably formed according to a predefined pattern as explained in detail subsequently.

It is advantageously possible to reproduce the appearance linked, for example, to freckles by creating a discontinuous network of islands having at least two regions within which the islands differ by virtue of at least one appearance feature thereof.

Thus, the discontinuous network may comprise a first region and a second region, the islands present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colour and/or average size and/or density and/or shape and/or sheen.

Preferably, the discontinuous network comprises a first region and a second region, the islands present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colour and/or average size and/or density.

The discontinuous network may also comprise a first region and a second region, the islands present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colorimetric difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space, with the colour of all or part of the deposited layer of foundation composition.

As a reminder, ΔΕ is defined by the following equation: Δ£* = /iiLi - £-2.) ² + (a-L - a₂)² + (h - ¾)² _where: are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first colour to be compared and∑2,Cl2,b₂ are those of the second one in the CIELab system (indices L lightness, a red, b yellow).

This measurement of ΔΕ between a first region of the face comprising few or no islands and a second region of the face comprising more islands may be carried out using a chromasphere. The following protocol may be used: 100 mg of foundation are weighed and applied with bare fingers to the face; a discontinuous network of islands is then created using a method according to the invention. After a drying time of 15 min, images of the made-up cheek, respectively over a first region and over a second region, are acquired using the chromasphere.

The difference in measurement corresponding to ΔΕ expresses the desired non- uniformity.

Such variations in the appearance features of the islands may advantageously enable natural effects to be recreated.

It is advantageously possible to obtain a discontinuous network of islands for which a first region has a density of islands greater than that of a second region and the first region is located on the cheeks and the second region is located in the periocular zone or on the forehead.

It is possible, in particular, to obtain a discontinuous network of islands for which a first region has a density of islands greater than that of second and third regions, and the first region is located on the cheeks and the second and third regions are located respectively in the periocular zone and on the forehead.

The islands obtained may have a colour difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space of greater than or equal to 1 , in particular of greater than or equal to 3, with the colour of all or part of the deposited layer of foundation composition.

Discontinuous network of visible zones

As mentioned above, the use of the device according to the invention may advantageously make it possible to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones. The discontinuous network of visible zones satisfies, preferably, all or some of the following features:

a) the visible zones have an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm, particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and/or

b) the average distance separating two adjacent visible zones is between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm, particularly preferably between 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, and/or

c) the discontinuous network comprises at least 5, preferably at least 10, preferably at least 30, particularly preferably at least 100, visible zones.

The size of a visible zone corresponds to its largest dimension.

The average size of the visible zones corresponds to the arithmetic mean of the sizes of said visible zones.

The distance between two visible zones corresponds to the distance separating the barycentres of said visible zones.

In the particular case of the formation of visible zones by removal and/or displacement of foundation present on the skin, the distance between two visible zones corresponds to the distance separating the barycentres of the zones of foundation covered by said visible zones.

The average distance between two adjacent visible zones corresponds to the arithmetic mean, for the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones, of the distances separating two adjacent visible zones.

The sizes of the visible zones and distances separating two visible zones are, unless otherwise mentioned, measured just after the end of the use of the device according to the invention.

The density of visible zones within the discontinuous network is preferably greater than 5 visible zones per cm² of surface area of skin treated, and less than 1000 per cm².

A discontinuous network of visible zones having:

visible zones with an average size between 0.4 mm and 4 mm,

an average distance separating two adjacent visible zones of between 1 mm and 5 mm, a number of visible zones of greater than 1 per cm²,

It is advantageously possible to reproduce the appearance linked, for example, to freckles by creating a discontinuous network of visible zones having at least two regions within which the visible zones differ by virtue of at least one appearance feature thereof.

Thus, the discontinuous network may comprise a first region and a second region, the visible zones present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colour and/or average size and/or density and/or shape and/or sheen.

Preferably, the discontinuous network comprises a first region and a second region, the visible zones present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colour and/or average size and/or density.

The discontinuous network may also comprise a first region and a second region, the visible zones present within the first and second regions differing at least by virtue of their colorimetric difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space, with the colour of all or part of the deposited layer of foundation composition.

As a reminder, ΔΕ is defined by the following equation:

are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first colour to be compared and∑2,Cl2,b₂ are those of the second one in the CIELab system (indices L lightness, a red, b yellow).

This measurement of ΔΕ between a first region of the face comprising few or no visible zones and a second region of the face comprising more visible zones may be carried out using a chromasphere. The following protocol may be used: 100 mg of foundation are weighed and applied with bare fingers to the face; a discontinuous network of visible zones is then created using a method according to the invention. After a drying time of 15 min, images of the made-up cheek, respectively over a first region and over a second region, are acquired using the chromasphere.

The difference in measurement corresponding to ΔΕ expresses the desired non- uniformity. Such variations in the appearance features of the visible zones may advantageously enable natural effects to be recreated.

It is advantageously possible to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones for which a first region has a density of visible zones greater than that of a second region and the first region is located on the cheeks and the second region is located in the periocular zone or on the forehead.

It is possible, in particular, to obtain a discontinuous network of visible zones for which a first region has a density of visible zones greater than that of second and third regions, and the first region is located on the cheeks and the second and third regions are located respectively in the periocular zone and on the forehead.

The visible zones obtained may have a colour difference ΔΕ in the CIELab space of greater than or equal to 1, in particular of greater than or equal to 3, with the colour of all or part of the deposited layer of foundation composition. Measurement of the coverage

Case of liquid compositions (that are liquid at 25°C

The expression "liquid composition" is understood to mean a composition for which it is possible to measure the viscosity. A liquid composition may flow under the effect of its own weight.

The coverage of the liquid compositions is measured at a finished thickness of

50 μιη for the liquid compositions.

The composition is spread over matt black and matt white contrast charts, for example of the LENETA Form WPl brand for the matt black chart and Leneta 1A brand for the matt white chart.

The application may be carried out with an automatic spreader.

The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread.

Solid compositions (that are solid at 25°C)

The solid compositions are those for which it is not possible to measure the viscosity.

They may be compositions cast in stick form or pulverulent compositions, in the form of loose or compacted powders. a) For the pulverulent, loose or compacted solid compositions, the composition is applied using the same contrast charts as above, covered with a transparent, slightly rough, adhesive tape, for example of BLENDERM^® brand from 3M and having the reference 15025, stuck via the adhesive face to the contrast charts.

The composition is deposited on the adhesive tape so as to obtain a homogeneous deposited layer of 0.5 mg/cm² ± 0.02 mg/cm².

In order to carry out the deposition it is possible to use a sponge loaded with the composition and mounted on a disintegrating device which makes the sponge carry out predefined movements. The sponge is for example a single-use sponge of LANC0ME - Photogenic type, used on the pink side.

b) The compositions in stick form are melted, for example at 90°C, then spread in the liquid state over matt black and matt white contrast charts, for example having the same references as above, not covered with BLENDERM^®. The spreading bar is maintained at the same temperature as the composition so as to avoid a thermal shock.

The compositions in stick form are thus deposited, once melted, with a thickness of 50 μιη.

Measurements and calculations

Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter

(diffuse/8° measurement geometry and D65/10⁰ observation, specular component mode excluded, small aperture (CREISS)) on the black and white backgrounds, the contrast charts optionally being covered with BLENDERM^® as indicated above.

The spectra are expressed as colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space as defined by the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage (International Commission on

Illumination) in accordance with recommendation 15:2004.

The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of

Y on the black background, divided by the mean value of Y on the white background, multiplied by 100.

According to one particular mode, the foundation composition used within the context of the invention has a coverage value greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50, and better still ranging preferably from 60 to 95.

Description of the figures The invention will be able to be better understood on examining the appended drawings in which:

Figure 1 schematically represents, in cross section, skin made up by an example of a method according to the invention,

- Figure 2 represents a top view of the made-up surface from Figure 1 ,

Figures 3 to 17 represent examples of made-up surfaces obtained by methods according to the invention, and

Figures 18, 20 to 32B and 33B to 33D describe various means for obtaining a discontinuous network of islands or a discontinuous network of visible zones according to the invention,

Figure 19 is a representation of the unrolled surface of a peripheral surface of a device according to the invention,

Figure 33A illustrates an example of a method for manufacturing one example of a cosmetic device according to the invention, and

- Figure 34 represents an example of a cosmetic assembly according to the invention.

In the drawings, the actual proportions have not necessarily been respected for the sake of the clarity of the drawing.

Represented in Figure 1 is the result of making up skin P obtained at the end of a method according to the invention.

The skin P is firstly coated with a foundation composition 1, it being possible for this deposited layer 1, as illustrated, to be continuous (i.e. in one piece) or, as a variant, to be distributed discontinuously over the surface of skin P treated.

The foundation 1 may be fluid or pulverulent and, for example, may be applied with the finger or by means of an applicator (sprayer, sponge, airbrush, etc.).

The user applies, secondly, a chemical and/or energy stimulus so as to form a discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 on the skin P. Of course, the user may, in a variant that is not illustrated, apply the stimulus so as to form a pattern that is continuous (i.e. in one piece) on the skin P.

As illustrated, the chemical and/or energy stimulus has enabled the deposited layer of foundation 1 to change colour locally in order to form the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2. As explained in detail below, the stimulus may make it possible to modify features other than the colour of the deposited layer of foundation in order to obtain the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2.

The islands 2 are, within the discontinuous network 20, separated by a distance d, connecting the barycentres of the islands in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean for the number of pairs of adjacent islands 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20) separating two adjacent islands 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.

Examples of means that make it possible to obtain this discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 will be explained in detail subsequently.

Represented in Figure 2 is a top view of Figure 1. The islands 2 may have various shapes, certain islands 2 having, for example, a circular shape and other islands 2 having an oblong, in particular elliptical, shape.

As a variant, all of the islands 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20 may have substantially the same shape.

Represented in Figure 3 is a variant in which the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 comprises islands that are touching, thus forming a cluster 21 of islands, and islands that are separate.

Represented in Figure 4 is a makeup result according to the invention, in which the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 comprises a first region 30 and also a second region 31. The discontinuous network 20 obtained at the end of the makeup methods according to the invention may comprise at least 10, preferably at least 30, islands 2.

The first region 30 is, as illustrated, located on a cheek and the second region 31 is located in the periocular zone.

The makeup effect according to the invention illustrated in Figure 4 shows that the density of the islands 2 present within the first region 30 is greater than the density of the islands 2 present within the second region 31.

The density of the islands 2 present within the first region 30 is, for example, greater than or equal to two times, in particular five times, the density of the islands 2 present within the second region 31.

First and second regions may be created for which the islands differ owing to other features, such as for example their colour, average size, shape and/or sheen.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the first region 30 is located on the cheeks and the second region 31 is located on the forehead. Illustrated in Figure 5 is an example of a surface made up by a method according to the invention. As illustrated, the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 is produced by a modification of the shape of the free surface S of the deposited layer of foundation 1.

This modification of the shape of the free surface S may, as illustrated, result in the formation of islands 2 in the form of humps leading to a local increase in the thickness e of the deposited layer of foundation 1.

The humps may be produced by the release of carbon dioxide following a chemical reaction between citric acid and a carbonate ion. In this case, the carbonate ion may be initially present within the foundation composition 1 and the citric acid may be applied to the deposited layer of foundation 1 by means that are explained in detail below.

As a variant, it is possible, as illustrated in Figure 6, to obtain a modification of the shape of the free surface S of the deposited layer of foundation 1 owing to islands 2 in the form of recessed areas leading to a local decrease in the thickness e of the deposited layer of foundation 1.

The recessed areas may be obtained by local dissolving of the foundation composition, by a photocrosslinking of a compound present within this foundation composition or by melting of the foundation as will be explained in detail below.

Illustrated in Figure 7 is an example of a makeup effect according to the invention in which a layer 110 of coloured makeup composition has been applied to the skin before application of the foundation composition 1.

In this example, the foundation composition 1 has been applied over the coloured layer 110 of makeup before being subjected to the stimulus.

The fact of being subjected to the stimulus, enabling for example a local dissolving of the foundation 1, leads locally, within the foundation composition 1, to the formation of islands 2 that are devoid of foundation.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the methods according to the invention make it possible, for example via a local dissolving of the foundation applied on top of the coloured layer of makeup, to result locally, within the foundation composition 1, in the formation of islands in the form of recessed areas as illustrated in Figure 6.

The recessed areas or islands devoid of foundation may advantageously make it possible to locally modify the coverage of the layer of foundation and thus to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

Represented in Figure 8 is the result of making up skin P obtained at the end of a method according to the invention.

The skin P is firstly coated with a foundation composition 1, as illustrated, it being possible for this deposited layer 1, as illustrated, to be continuous (i.e. in one piece) or, as a variant, to be distributed discontinuously over the surface of skin P treated.

The user applies, secondly, a makeup product so as to form a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 on the skin P. This application is, for example, carried out by the devices described in Figures 18 and 20, which will be described in detail subsequently.

Adjacent visible zones 2 are, within the discontinuous network 20, separated by a distance d, connecting the barycentres of the visible zones in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean for the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones 2 within the discontinuous network 20) separating two adjacent visible zones 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.

Represented in Figure 9 is a top view of Figure 8. The visible zones 2 may have various shapes, certain visible zones 2 having, for example, a circular shape and other visible zones 2 having an oblong, in particular elliptical, shape.

As a variant, all of the visible zones 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20 may have substantially the same shape.

Represented in Figure 10 is a variant in which the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 comprises visible zones 2 that are touching, thus forming a cluster 21 of visible zones 2, and visible zones 2 that are separate.

Represented in Figure 11 is a makeup result according to the invention, in which the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 comprises a first region 30 and also a second region 31. The discontinuous network 20 obtained at the end of the makeup methods according to the invention may comprise at least 10, preferably at least 30, visible zones 2.

The first region 30 is, as illustrated, located on a cheek and the second region 31 is located in the periocular zone. The makeup effect according to the invention illustrated in Figure 1 1 shows that the density of the visible zones 2 present within the first region 30 is greater than the density of the visible zones 2 present within the second region 31.

The density of the visible zones 2 present within the first region 30 is, for example, greater than or equal to two times, in particular five times, the density of the visible zones 2 present within the second region 31.

First and second regions may be created for which the visible zones differ owing to other features, such as for example their colour, average size, shape and/or sheen.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the first region 30 is located on the cheeks and the second region 31 is located on the forehead.

Illustrated in Figure 12 is a cross section of a surface of skin P made up according to the invention covered with a deposited layer of foundation 1 which is covered with a continuous deposited layer of a product 81 comprising visible bodies 4 that give it a non-uniform appearance.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the product 81 comprising the visible bodies 4 is deposited discontinuously over the deposited layer of foundation 1.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the product is deposited over one portion only of the deposited layer of foundation.

The visible bodies 4 advantageously make it possible to create irregularities in the relief, rendering, for example, the appearance of the made-up surface more natural.

The visible bodies 4 have been represented as being fibres; use could, as a variant, be made of other types of particles such as separate grains or agglomerated grains.

Illustrated in Figure 13 is a makeup variant according to the invention in which the user has locally removed foundation so as to form a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 on the skin P.

This removal may be carried out by the device from Figure 18, the pins 42 of which are constituted of an absorbent material.

It is possible, as illustrated, to obtain a modification of the shape of the free surface S of the deposited layer of foundation 1 owing to visible zones 2 in the form of recessed areas leading to a local decrease in the thickness e of the deposited layer of foundation 1. The recessed areas may be obtained by bringing the foundation 1 into contact with an absorbent surface or by suction as explained in detail below.

The adjacent visible zones 2 are, within the discontinuous network 20, separated by a distance d, connecting the barycentres of the zones 200 of foundation covered by the visible zones in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean for the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20) separating two adjacent visible zones 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.

Represented in Figure 14 is a variant in which the removal and/or the displacement of the foundation carried out led to a free surface S of the deposited layer of foundation 1 comprising reliefs such as recessed areas and/or humps being obtained. As illustrated, the free surface S comprises a succession of recessed areas and humps thus constituting the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2.

Illustrated in Figure 15 is an example of a makeup effect according to the invention in which a layer 110 of coloured makeup composition has been applied to the skin before application of the foundation composition 1.

Once the layer of foundation composition 1 has been applied, it is possible, by local removal of the foundation 1, to form, within the foundation composition 1, visible zones 2 that are devoid of foundation.

Such a removal may be carried out by the device from Figure 18, the pins 42 of which are constituted of an absorbent material.

The recessed areas or zones devoid of foundation advantageously make it possible to locally modify the coverage of the layer of foundation and thus to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer of makeup.

Illustrated in Figure 16 is a makeup result according to the invention, in which particles 211 have been distributed over the layer of foundation 1 by a device such as illustrated in Figure 20. In this case, the pins locally displace the foundation and thus make it possible to obtain a modification of the shape of the free surface S of the deposited layer of foundation 1 so as to form, as illustrated, a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2; the pins make it possible, in addition, to deposit particles that are initially present in the reservoir 43. Illustrated in Figure 17 is a makeup result according to the invention, in which a chemical reagent present on the pins 42 of the device from Figure 18 or 20 has been applied to a deposited layer of foundation 1.

The chemical reagent applied may react with a compound present within the foundation in order to enable the deposited layer of foundation 1 to change colour locally in order to form the discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2.

The adjacent visible zones 2 are, within the discontinuous network 20, separated by a distance d, connecting the barycentres of the visible zones in question. The average distance (arithmetic mean for the number of pairs of adjacent visible zones 2 constituting the discontinuous network 20) separating two adjacent visible zones 2 is, for example, between 0.5 and 5 mm.

Illustrated in Figure 18 is a device 40 according to the invention that makes it possible to form a pattern, and in particular a discontinuous network of visible zones or a discontinuous network of islands, on the skin. In the present text, reference will be made either to device 40 or applicator 40 when the device 40 is used to apply a product to the made-up or non-made-up keratin materials.

The device 40 comprises a peripheral surface 41 comprising islands in the form of pins 42 intended to come into contact with the skin of a user or, as a variant, with a deposited layer of foundation present thereon. The device 40 is configured so that, during the displacement thereof over the keratin materials, a rotational movement relative to the X axis is imposed on the peripheral surface 41. In the present text, reference will be made either to peripheral surface 41 or application surface 41 when the device 40 is used to apply a product to the made-up or non-made-up keratin materials.

In one exemplary embodiment, the pins 42 bear a product to be applied to the skin (not represented) and the rotation of the peripheral surface 41 in contact with the made-up keratin materials makes it possible to produce, by transfer, a discontinuous network of visible zones.

In one exemplary embodiment, the pins 42 are constituted of an absorbent material based on nylon® flocking comprising a mixture of fibres of 200 μιη and 10 μιη in diameter adhesively bonded together on a support. The pins 42 make it possible, in this case, at the time they come into contact with the foundation composition, to locally remove the foundation in order to obtain the discontinuous network of visible zones. As a variant, the pins make it possible to displace the foundation, at the time they come into contact therewith, in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones, this is (are) desired.

In one exemplary embodiment, the pins 42 bear a chemical reagent (not represented) that enables the deposited layer of foundation to change colour, for example dihydroxyacetone, and the rotation of the application surface 41 in contact with the made- up keratin materials makes it possible to transfer said chemical reagent in order to obtain the discontinuous network of islands or of visible zones. In this case, the foundation comprises an amine that can react with the dihydroxyacetone in order to produce the colour change.

One example of a method for manufacturing a device 40 bearing pins 42 that can be used within the context of the methods according to the invention will now be described.

Illustrated in Figure 19 is a representation of an unrolled surface of a peripheral surface 41. As illustrated, the peripheral surface 41 comprises islands of circular contour and also islands of non-circular contour. This peripheral surface 41 comprises, in addition, islands that are touching and islands that are separate.

This unrolled surface has, for example, dimensions of 30^χ20 mm. Starting from the pattern illustrated in Figure 19, a 3D file is produced in .STL format using Solidworks® software. The x and y axes in this file are represented in Figure 19 and the z coordinates are at -2 mm for the coloured zones and 0 mm for the white zones.

Next, starting from this file and using a 3D printer for example (Objet 30 from Objet Geometries Ltd.) an object is produced that will be used as a mould.

A crosslinkable silicone (Silflo) is deposited on the mould so that the entire surface is covered with a thickness of around 2 mm.

Next, after having set, it is removed. The silicone is then adhesively bonded to a roller having a diameter of around 1 cm.

The roller is provided with a handle and an axis of rotation, enabling the roller to be rolled without significant friction.

Illustrated in Figure 20 is an embodiment variant of device 40 according to the invention, comprising a reservoir 43 comprising a product intended to be applied to a deposited layer of foundation present on the skin. The reservoir 43 is arranged in order to distribute the product at the pins 42 of the peripheral surface 41 as the device 40 is moved in contact with the made-up keratin materials.

The application of the product makes it possible, for example, to locally displace the foundation present on the skin in order to form the pattern, and preferably the discontinuous network of visible zones, that is (are) desired. In one exemplary embodiment that is not illustrated, the pins are configured so as to create a discontinuous network of graduated visible zones during the movement of the device. In other words, the pattern obtained by the use of the device produces an optical effect, the intensity of which varies in a strictly monotone manner when moving over all or part of the path taken by the device.

As a variant, the reservoir 43 comprises a chemical reagent, arranged in order to distribute the latter at the pins 42 of the application surface 41 as the applicator 40 is moved in contact with the made-up keratin materials.

In one exemplary embodiment that is not illustrated, the pins are configured so as to apply the stimulus in a graduated manner during the movement of the applicator. For example, the pattern produced by the application of the chemical reagent on the foundation produces an optical effect, the intensity of which varies in a strictly monotone manner when moving over all or part of the path taken by the applicator.

It is also possible to use a device in the form of a sheet bearing pins and/or absorbent zones and/or holes.

The user may, in this case, bring the applicator bearing for example a chemical reagent or a solvent into contact, in a spatially non-uniform manner, with the foundation in order to obtain the discontinuous network of islands.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the pins bear a solvent that makes it possible to obtain local dissolving of the layer of foundation.

In one variant that is not illustrated, the pins comprise an assembly of heating elements and/or irradiators, in particular UV irradiators, which make it possible to subject the deposited layer of foundation to a thermal and/or light stimulus.

In one exemplary embodiment, the pins 42 are movable with respect to the peripheral surface. The pins 42 may be moved by hand, by a magnetic force or by an electromechanical force, depending on the systems employed. The pins 42 may be movable along the peripheral surface 41 and/or may be pushed out or retracted so as to create reliefs in said peripheral surface. In the latter case, the pins 42 may be covered with a thin elastic surface. Thus, when the pins are pushed out, bumps emerge in the elastic surface. Represented, in Figure 21 A, is the peripheral surface 41 comprising the pins in the retracted state and, in Figure 21B, the peripheral surface 41 comprising the pins 42 that emerge after application of an electromechanical force for example.

The roller may then be used to capture a chemical reagent or a solvent and subsequently, by transfer, deliver them by simple pressure onto the skin.

In one particular case, use is made of an electrosensitive surface (dielectric silicone used in the actuators) in an arrangement such that this surface contains a drop of liquid, for example of an oil.

A sheet of elastomer is produced bearing several of these arrangements, each measuring around 2 mm and spaced 2 mm from its neighbour. Each arrangement is electrically connected to an electric generator delivering around 500 V. It is possible to choose the arrangements that will be electrically charged in order to obtain the desired pattern and, in particular, to choose to obtain a random arrangement.

When the electrical charge is delivered, the electrosensitive surface of each arrangement that is stressed will retract and therefore put pressure on the liquid and, consequently, give rise to a swelling of the arrangement. Those that have not been electrically stressed retain their initial flat form.

Such an arrangement is described in the publication "Millimetre-scale bubblelike dielectric elastomer actuators" by Carpi et al., Polymer International (2009), Volume: 59, Issue: 3, Pages: 407-414.

This arrangement may be fastened, for example by clip-fastening, to various types of surfaces (rollers, sponges, pads, surfaces that have a shape adapted to a part of the body) in order to form a cosmetic device that can be used within the context of the present invention.

This assembly may then be used to capture a solvent or a chemical reagent and subsequently, by transfer, deliver them, by simple pressure, onto the skin.

Each drop may be addressed individually; this makes it possible to choose the number and the position of the textures that it is desired to produce on the skin.

It is understood that the device may, in accordance with a variant that is not illustrated, have an application surface provided with a plurality of openings instead of the pins 42, a product, in particular a solvent or a chemical reagent, being distributed through these openings in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones or the discontinuous network of islands, that is (are) desired.

In this exemplary embodiment, a cellular material, such as a polyurethane foam, may be used. Thus, it is possible to produce a roller made of foam and then to cover one part of its surface with an openwork impermeable layer, such as for example with an openwork smooth plastic sleeve.

Since the sleeve has holes, a transfer of product, in particular of chemical reagent or of solvent, will be created level with them when the roller is pressed against the skin.

As a variant, the device is configured to suck up the foundation through the openings in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones, that is (are) desired. In this case, the suction may take place while the device is in the vicinity of, in particular in contact with, the deposited layer of foundation. In this case, the device may be fixed or movable relative to the deposited layer of foundation.

According to another variant that is not illustrated, the applicator comprises, instead of the pins 42, a plurality of regions that differ, in particular, owing to their hydrophilicity. In the latter exemplary embodiment, a product, in particular a chemical reagent or a solvent, is selectively present, before application to the made-up surface, at the most hydrophilic regions in order to form, during its application, the desired pattern, in particular the discontinuous network of islands.

According to another variant that is not illustrated, the device comprises, instead of the pins 42, a plurality of islands having hydrophilicity different from that of the surrounding surface that encircles them. In the latter exemplary embodiment, the product may selectively be present, before application to the made-up surface, at the most hydrophilic regions in order to form, during its application, the desired pattern.

The product, in particular the chemical reagent or the solvent, may also selectively be placed at the hydrophobic regions. In one such exemplary embodiment, as in the case of offset printing, the hydrophilic regions may be constituted by aluminium and the hydrophobic regions may be constituted by copper or a silicone polymer.

An ink comprising a mixture of water and coloured molecules may then be placed on the peripheral surface of the device. The difference in surface tension will require that the water is placed at the hydrophilic regions and the coloured molecules at the hydrophobic regions.

Then, by simple transfer, with or without prior drying, the pattern will be able to be transferred onto the skin.

It is also possible to use a device having a peripheral surface that is covered, homogeneously or inhomogeneously, with a colorant that cannot be transferred or only transferred a little when it is dry. After wetting said colorant with a suitable solvent, in particular with water, a product is obtained that can be transferred to the made-up keratin materials.

Thus, by depositing a solvent according to a certain pattern, it is possible to reproduce, by transfer onto the skin, said pattern via deposition of a product.

It is also possible to use a device that has an application surface of inhomogeneous roughness or absorbent nature. This example uses two surfaces, one of which is fairly smooth and the other of which is substantially rougher or more absorbent.

For example, deposited onto a roller, via small zones, is a viscous solution of

PSA adhesive polymer. Next, the roller is passed over a powder of small fibres (2 mm in length, 20 μιη in diameter). Only the adhesive zones will retain the fibres.

When the roller thus treated is brought into contact with a product to be applied, in particular a chemical reagent, the zones bearing small fibres will accumulate a large amount of product, in particular of chemical reagent, which will be able to be delivered by simple pressure on the skin.

It is also possible to use a device having a smooth application surface that bears discontinuous islands of product that can be transferred to the skin, in particular of chemical reagent. The application surface may be made of a material that is not very adhesive, such as PTFE.

The adhesion of the product, in particular of the chemical reagent, to the application surface is sufficient so that it is possible to handle the roller.

During contact with the skin, the product, in particular the chemical reagent, is transferred, leaving the roller with less or no product, in particular chemical reagent.

In one exemplary embodiment, the islands of product borne by the peripheral surface are formed of dry matter that is optionally adhesive to at least one of their faces. During contact with the made-up surface, the adhesion strength that is created exceeds the adhesion of the product to the device, thus giving rise to a transfer.

In another exemplary embodiment, the product is formed of small fibres (typically 1 mm long by 10 μιη in diameter).

The small fibres are held at the peripheral surface of the device by an electrostatic attraction and/or by the presence of a fluid and/or of a sticky material.

It is also possible to use applicators of "pad" type with movable ends that can change position randomly. This principle is based on a perforated guide membrane which may be soft or hard. Small rods are placed in one each of the holes therein. The length of the rods is greater than the thickness of the guide membrane. The system is supplemented by a means that prevents the rods from leaving the hole, without preventing the movement of the rods. For example, on the rear face, another membrane may be placed thereon that blocks the exit of the rods or else each rod is retained by an elastic zone or else each rod has one or two lugs that limit the movement beyond a certain course. The movable rods may be moved individually or as a group by simple mechanical pressure, by hydraulic pressure, or by an electromagnetic or electrostatic force. A system may make it possible to block the rods so that they do not move during the application. This system may involve a mechanical force, an electromagnetic or electrostatic force, the presence of frictions which mean that the force on application is not sufficient to move the rods or a braking system that is deactivated in order to move the rods and that is activated in order to block them. Finally, it is possible to add, on top of the group of rods, a last soft membrane. In this case, the rods do not come into contact with the skin and push the soft membrane, then imparting reliefs thereto by pressure

For example, the guide membrane has a thickness between 1 mm and 1 cm. The rods have, for example, a length between 2 mm and 2 cm. The diameters of the rods are, for example, between 0.3 and 5 mm. The rods may or may not have a circular cross section.

Illustrated in Figure 22 is a variant of an applicator 40 that makes it possible to apply the foundation composition 1 and the chemical reagent 120 in a single movement.

The applicator 40 is moved relative to the surface of skin P to be treated and comprises a first roller 44 comprising, on its application surface 45, a layer of powder foundation 1. The first roller ensures the application of the foundation 1 onto the skin P when it is moved relative to the skin P. The applicator 40 comprises, in addition, a second roller 46 comprising, on its application surface 41, pins 42. The latter bear, as illustrated, the chemical reagent 120 and make it possible to obtain the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2 on the layer of foundation 1 as the applicator 40 is moved relative to the skin P.

Illustrated in Figure 22A is a variant of a device 40 that makes it possible to apply the foundation composition 1 and to form a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 in a single movement.

The device 40 is moved relative to the surface of skin P to be treated and comprises a first roller 44 comprising, on its application surface 45, a layer of powder foundation 1. The first roller ensures the application of the foundation 1 onto the skin P when it is moved relative to the skin P.

The device 40 comprises, in addition, a second roller 46 comprising, on its peripheral surface 41, pins 42. The latter bear, as illustrated, deposited layers 48 of a product and make it possible to obtain a discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2 on the layer of foundation 1 as the device 40 is moved relative to the skin P.

Of course, in one variant that is not illustrated, the device may comprise pins formed of absorbent zones that make it possible to locally remove the foundation composition in order to form the discontinuous network of visible zones.

Illustrated in Figure 23 is an embodiment variant that makes it possible to obtain an applicator 40 bearing, on its application surface 41 , a discontinuous deposited layer of chemical reagent 120.

The applicator 40 has, for example, a smooth application surface 41 and is, as illustrated, in the form of a roller comprising a gripping portion 47.

A stencil 100 comprising openings 101 is, as illustrated, positioned on a block of chemical reagent 120. The arrangement of the openings 101 is linked to the pattern to be obtained.

The user moves the applicator 40 in contact with the stencil 100 and a discontinuous deposited layer of chemical reagent 120 is thus deposited on the application surface 41.

The applicator 40 may then apply the chemical reagent 120 onto a deposited layer of foundation in order to obtain a predefined pattern on the made-up surface. Illustrated in Figure 23A is an embodiment variant that makes it possible to obtain a device 40 bearing, on its peripheral surface 41 , a plurality of deposited layers of adhesive composition 220.

The features of the device 40 and of the stencil 100 are the same as those described within the context of Figure 23.

The user moves the device 40 in contact with the stencil 100 and a plurality of deposited layers of adhesive composition 220 are thus obtained on the peripheral surface 41.

The device 40 may then bring a deposited layer of foundation into contact with the adhesive composition 220 in order to locally remove the foundation and obtain a predefined pattern on the made-up surface.

It is possible, as a variant, to replace the block of adhesive composition 220 with a block of product to be applied to the keratin materials in order to obtain a device bearing, on its peripheral surface, a plurality of islands formed of a product that can be transferred onto the skin.

Of course, the applicators illustrated in Figures 22, 22A, 23 and 23A may be configured to enable the application of solvent in order to locally dissolve the layer of foundation.

Illustrated in Figures 24 to 26 are the various steps of a makeup method according to the invention in which the stimulus is firstly applied to a plurality of regions of the skin and then the foundation composition is applied to these regions in order to be subjected to said stimulus.

Illustrated in Figure 24 is the deposition, over a plurality of regions of the skin P, of a chemical reagent 120. This deposition may for example be carried out by the device 40 illustrated in Figure 18 or 20.

The foundation composition 1 is then, as illustrated in Figure 25, applied to the skin P so as to be brought into contact with the chemical reagent 120. Figure 26 schematically shows the discontinuous network 20 of islands or of visible zones 2 obtained after reaction of the chemical reagent 120 with a compound present within the foundation 1.

Illustrated in Figure 27 is an exemplary embodiment in which a heating member 130 comprising a heating zone 131 is brought close to a deposited layer of foundation composition 1 in order to locally increase its temperature and make it possible to obtain the discontinuous network of islands.

In this case, the foundation composition 1 advantageously comprises a meltable compound and/or an expanded material, the volume of which may be modified under the action of the heat. It is then possible to form, under the action of the heat, recessed islands as described in Figure 6.

Illustrated in Figure 28 is an exemplary embodiment in which a UV lamp 140 is brought close to a deposited layer of foundation composition 1 in order to make it possible to obtain the discontinuous network of islands.

In this case, the foundation composition 1 advantageously comprises a thermally stable photodevelopable agent that can be developed under the action of the UV radiation applied by the lamp 140 and that produces a local colour change in the foundation composition 1.

Illustrated in Figure 29 is an openwork screen 50, constituted of a sheet 51 comprising openings 52.

The arrangement of the openings 52 corresponds to a pattern to be reproduced, in particular to a layout of freckles to be reproduced on the made-up surface.

Figure 30 illustrates the implementation of a method according to the invention in which an openwork screen 50 is placed opposite a deposited layer of foundation composition 1. A sprayer 60 is brought close to the screen 50 and sprays the chemical reagent 120 through the openings 52 so as to form a discontinuous network 20 of islands 2.

Of course, it would be possible to spray, through the openings, a solvent that would make it possible to locally dissolve the deposited layer of foundation composition in order to form the discontinuous network of islands.

Illustrated in Figure 31 is an exemplary embodiment where a light stimulus is applied by means of a UV lamp 140. The screen 50 is constituted of a sheet 51 that is opaque to the radiation from the lamp 140 and that has openings 52. Thus, the light stimulus is applied to the foundation composition 1 that corresponds with the openings 52 in order to form the discontinuous network 20 of islands 2.

Illustrated in Figures 32A and 32B is another means that can be used for projecting for example a chemical reagent 120 in the form of droplets onto the deposited layer of foundation. As illustrated in Figure 32A, use is made of a brush 90 comprising a support 92 to which flexible bristles 91 are connected. Use is made, for example, of a toothbrush. The bristles 91 bear the chemical reagent 120. These bristles 91 are put under stress as illustrated in Figure 32A.

The bristles 91 are then released and return to their equilibrium position as illustrated in Figure 32B; by doing this the chemical reagent 120 is projected in the form of droplets onto the surface to be treated.

It is of course possible to use the device described in Figures 32A and 32B to project a solvent capable of locally dissolving the foundation composition.

Illustrated in Figures 33 A to 33D are various steps of a method according to the invention. A sprayer 122 is brought close to a support 123 and droplets 121 of an adhesive compound dissolved in a solvent are projected thereon.

After drying of the solvent, the support illustrated in Figure 33B is obtained, which comprises a plurality of deposited layers of an adhesive composition 220. This support constitutes an example of a device 40 according to the invention comprising a peripheral surface 41, positioned on which are islands that here take the form of deposited layers of adhesive composition 220.

The support from Figure 33B is brought into contact with a deposited layer of foundation 1 as illustrated in Figure 33C. A modification of the shape of the free surface S of the foundation 1 is thus obtained owing to the local removal of the foundation by the deposited layers of adhesive composition.

A discontinuous network 20 of visible zones 2, the arrangement of which is linked to the arrangement of the deposited layers of adhesive composition 220 on the support 123 and that makes it possible, for example, to reproduce the appearance of freckles, may thus be obtained.

As a variant, droplets of a solid compound dissolved at high concentration in a solvent are sprayed onto a support. Then, after drying of the solvent, the solid compound, present on the support, is brought into contact with the foundation. The deposited layers of solid compound will enable the displacement of small portions of material, thus creating the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network of visible zones, that is (are) desired. Figure 34 illustrates an assembly 80 according to the invention comprising a plurality of devices 40 and also a foundation product 1 to be applied using these devices

40. The devices 40 differ owing to the arrangement of the pins 42 on the peripheral surface

41. Thus, each device enables a different pattern to be produced on a made-up skin surface.

The user may, before implementing the method according to the invention, choose, from within this assembly 80, one device, which enables her to choose to produce a predefined pattern.

Examples

Example 1

A first, highly covering foundation is applied. It contains polyvinylamine (Lupamine® from BASF) in a proportion of 4% of active material.

At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance is not natural. Next, a roller as described in Figure 20 is used. The tips are made of an absorbent material. DHA is deposited on the tips. The roller is rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. Small marks are obtained, producing a natural effect.

Example 2

The following steps are performed:

1) deposition, onto a 4 mm thick membrane made of a rubbery material, of a film of foundation (Toleriane range from La Roche-Posay)

2) drying for 5 minutes

3) deposition of a 4% mixture of diarylethene in acetone on top of the foundation; the formula of the diarylethene used is iven below

4) drying for 5 minutes

5) producing a skin texture by UV photoactivation (10 s in the sun) using a perforated stencil. Example 3

A first, covering, water-based foundation is applied.

At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance is not natural.

Next, a roller as described in Figure 20 is used. The tips are suitable for depositing particles of calcium chloride. Each particle has a size of around 1 mm.

The roller is rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. A transfer of small marks is obtained, producing a natural effect. In this example, the particles of calcium chloride absorbed some of the water present in the foundation and thus modified the shape and the colour of the coating in order to produce the desired appearance.

Example 4: Use of a photocrosslinkable compound

A first, covering, water-based foundation is mixed (50/50) with an aqueous composition containing 25% of PVA SbQ from PolymerScience.

After mixing and homogenization, the foundation is applied to the skin.

Next, the skin is illuminated with 50 mW light with a wavelength of 405 nm, through a sheet pierced with 1 mm holes in a proportion of 9 holes per cm². The arrangement of the holes is such that the density of holes per cm² is quite uniform but they are not arranged geometrically. During the illumination, the sheet is positioned very close to the skin (without however touching it). The illumination is carried out for 1 min 20 s, i.e. 5 J.

Next, the sheet is removed and a thin UVA and UVB solar protection film, of SPF 30, is applied by spraying.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained.

Example 5: Use of a chemical reagent for releasing a gas and modifying the shape of the surface of the deposited layer of foundation

Added to a covering, water-based foundation are grains of ammonium hydrogen carbonate in a proportion of 3% by weight.

It is homogenized for 1 min. Next, this foundation is applied to the skin. Then, using a pump-action bottle, a 20% citric acid composition is vaporized so as to create drops of around 300 μιη on the skin. For this, some adjustments may have to be made that consist in finding the ideal distance to achieve this coating of drops.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained.

Example 6: Use of a chemical reagent for expanding grains present within the foundation composition

Added to a covering, water-based foundation are grains of Expancel DU from Akzo Nobel in a proportion of 3% by weight.

It is homogenized for 1 min. Next, this foundation is applied to the skin.

Then the skin is illuminated with a 650 W infrared lamp (Philips HP3643/01 infrared lamp) through a sheet pierced with 4 mm holes in a proportion of 4 holes per cm². The arrangement of the holes is such that the density of holes per cm² is quite uniform but they are not arranged geometrically. During the illumination, the sheet is positioned very close to the skin (without however touching it). The illumination is carried out for 1 min 20 s, at a distance of 2 m 50 cm. The sheet is covered on both sides with a sheet of reflective paper made of aluminium.

The sheet is then removed.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained.

Example 7: Use of a chemical reagent in order to produce a redox reaction with an oxidation dye present in the foundation

A first, covering, water-based foundation is mixed (50/50) with an oxidation dye composition of the Shades EQ brand from Redken, of chestnut brown shade.

After mixing and homogenization, the foundation is applied to the skin.

Then, using a pump-action bottle, a composition of 4V aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution at pH 3 (phosphoric acid) is vaporized so as to create drops of around 300 μιη on the skin. For this, some adjustments are made that consist in finding the ideal distance to achieve this coating of drops.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained after around

30 min. Example 8: Use of a solvent that makes it possible to obtain local dissolving of the layer of foundation (if possible with underlying coloured layer of makeup)

A formulation 1 is produced by mixing an ethanolic composition of Luviset UR polyurethane polymer from BASF. The composition contains 3% of polymer. Furthermore, grains of calcium carbonate are added in a proportion of 8% by weight.

Next, a coloured foundation, comprising iron oxide pigments, is applied. For this, a formulation known as BB Cream from Gamier is used.

After 10 min, formulation 1 is applied by carefully applying a thin layer (around 3 g for the whole face).

After drying, a roller having a diameter of 4 cm and comprising tips having a diameter of 1 mm (8 per cm²) and that is formed of absorbent felt is used. The roller is immersed for a few moments in a 40/60 mixture of ethanol and acetone.

Next, the roller is rolled heavily over the coating.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained after around 3 min.

Example 9: Use of a thermal stimulus in order to vary the volume of an expanded material

Flakes of expanded polystyrene are torn into pieces of 100 μιη. These small pieces are added to a covering, water-based foundation in a proportion of 1% by weight.

It is homogenized for 1 min. Next, this foundation is applied to the skin.

Then, using a pump-action bottle, an acetone composition is vaporized so as to create drops of around 1 mm on the skin. For this, some adjustments are made that consist in finding the ideal distance to achieve this coating of drops.

Once the drops dry out (1 min), the spraying is restarted. This operation is carried out 4 times in all.

Good coverage of the skin, with visible textures, is then obtained. Example 10: Use of a mechanical stimulus and presence of a tribochromic compound in the foundation

A formulation 1 is produced by mixing an ethanolic composition of Luviset UR polyurethane polymer from BASF. The composition contains 3% by weight of polymer. Furthermore, grains of calcium carbonate, in a proportion of 8% by weight, and 3-dicyclopropylmethylene-5-dicyanomethylene-4-diphenylmethylenetetrahydrofuran-2- one pigment powder from Nippon Soda, in a proportion of 2% by weight, are added.

Next, a mechanical stress is produced locally using a wooden tip (1 mm in diameter) and by rubbing the skin over a very small surface area.

At these places the foundation changes from yellow to orange.

Example 11

A first, highly covering foundation (Dermablend Professional, light colour) is firstly applied. At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance cannot be considered to be natural.

Next, a roller as described in Figure 18 is used. Small spots of brown foundation ("Infallible" dark shade) having a width of around 1 mm are placed level with the pins.

The roller is then rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. A transfer of small marks is obtained, producing a natural effect.

At the end of the treatment, the differences in colour are blurred slightly, by using cotton wool that is lightly brushed over, or using a brush.

Example 12

A first, covering, water-based foundation is applied. At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance is not natural.

Next, a roller as illustrated in Figure 20 (3 cm in diameter) is used. The reservoir placed in contact with the pins of the roller is a small metal (aluminium) case 5 cm wide, 5 cm long and 1cm thick. It contains a lipstick formula. The small metal case also comprises a small piston that can be actuated manually in order to move the lipstick formula forward towards the outlet in order to ensure contact with the pins during its use. The pins are suitable for creating a depression in the foundation and depositing points of colour. Each particle has a size of around 1 mm. The roller is rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. A transfer of small marks is obtained, producing a natural effect.

Example 13

A first, highly covering foundation is applied.

At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance is not natural.

Next, a roller as illustrated in Figure 18 (3 cm in diameter) is used. The pins are made of an absorbent material, by using cardboard finely cut into small cylindrical sticks. Each pin measures 3 mm in height and 1 mm in diameter at the tip and level with its base. The pins will absorb, by contact, a portion of the foundation.

The roller is rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. The foundation is then removed locally in order to produce a natural effect.

Before reusing the roller to treat another zone of the face, it is cleaned.

Example 14

A tool formed of a platform pierced with 16 holes is formed. 16 rods pass through the holes, which rods are driven by a motor and a set of gears.

Thus, when the front face is observed, 16 rods are seen, sticking up one millimetre above the platform.

1 flocked piece having a size of 1 mm is adhesively bonded to each rod.

A thick layer of foundation is laid down.

The platform is brought close to the skin for one second and is barely brushed against the makeup. The creation of small textures is observed that enhance the makeup effect.

Example 15

At this stage, the irregularities are hidden but the appearance is not natural. Next, a roller as illustrated in Figure 18 is used. The tips are made of an absorbent material. DHA is deposited on the tips. The roller is rolled over the skin, on the cheeks and the forehead. Small marks are obtained, producing a natural effect.

The features described within illustrated variants and variants that have not been illustrated may be combined.

The expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one".

The expressions "between" or "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as including the limits.

Claims

1. Method for making up the skin (P) comprising the step consisting in subjecting a foundation composition (1) comprising a pigment, preferably an iron oxide, applied to the skin (P) to a chemical and/or energy stimulus so as to create a pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief and/or colour of the skin.

2. Makeup method according to Claim 1 , the stimulus being a chemical and/or non- light energy stimulus.

3. Method according to the preceding claim, the stimulus being a chemical and/or thermal and/or mechanical stimulus.

4. Makeup method according to Claim 1 , the foundation composition (1) being subjected to light radiation, especially UV radiation, said foundation composition (1) comprising:

5. Method according to any one of Claims 1 and 4, an appearance of skin irregularities other than freckles being reproduced in the case of a light stimulus.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the fact of being subjected to the chemical and/or energy stimulus making it possible to form a discontinuous network (20) of islands (2) that locally modify the appearance of the makeup in order to create the pattern that reproduces the appearance of irregularities in the relief and/or colour of the skin.

7. Makeup method according to any one of the preceding claims, the foundation composition (1) being brought into contact with a chemical reagent (120), enabling in particular the deposited layer of foundation (1) to change colour and/or to undergo a modification of the shape of its free surface (S).

8. Method according to the preceding claim, the deposited layer of foundation (1) undergoing a modification of the shape of its free surface (S) due to the release of a gas produced by the reaction between the chemical reagent (120) and the foundation (1).

9. Method according to the preceding claim, the reaction comprising a step of reaction between an acid and a carbonate or hydrogen carbonate ion, in particular releasing carbon dioxide.

10. Makeup method according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, the foundation (1) changing colour due to a reaction between the chemical reagent (120) and a compound present in the foundation (1), said reaction being a Maillard reaction, preferably a reaction between an amine and dihydroxyacetone (DHA), or a redox reaction.

11. Makeup method according to any one of Claims 6 to 10, the foundation composition (1) being brought into contact with a solvent that enables it to be dissolved locally in order to form said discontinuous network (20) of islands (2).

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, a heating member (130) being brought close to the foundation composition (1) in order to locally increase its temperature, said foundation composition (1) comprising:

a) a meltable compound, and/or

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, a coloured layer (110) of makeup composition having been applied to the skin (P) before application of the foundation composition (1) and the foundation composition (1) being applied over all or part of this layer (110) before being subjected to the stimulus.

14. Method according to the preceding claim, the fact of being subjected to the stimulus making it possible to locally modify the coverage, especially the thickness (e), of the layer of foundation (1) in order to modify the appearance of the made-up surface due to the presence of the underlying coloured layer (110) of makeup.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the stimulus comprising the application of a pressure and the foundation comprising:

a) a tribochromic compound, and/or

b) a coloured compound encapsulated in pressure-sensitive particles.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the stimulus being firstly applied to a plurality of regions of the skin (P) then the foundation composition (1) being applied over these regions in order to be subjected to said stimulus.

17. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 15, the foundation composition (1) being firstly applied to the skin (P) then the latter being subjected to said stimulus in order to form the discontinuous network (20) of islands (2).

18. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 17, the discontinuous network (20) of islands (2) satisfying all or some of the following features:

a) the islands (2) having an average size between 0.05 mm and 3 mm, preferably between 0.1 mm and 1.5 mm, particularly preferably between 0.3 mm and 0.9 mm, and/or

b) the average distance separating two adjacent islands (2) being between 0.25 mm and 20 mm, preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm, preferably between 1.5 mm and

2.5 mm, and/or

c) the discontinuous network (20) comprising at least 5, preferably at least 10, preferably at least 30, particularly preferably at least 100, islands (2).

19. Method according to any one of Claims 6 to 18, the discontinuous network (20) comprising islands that are touching and islands that are separate.

20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the stimulus being applied by an applicator (40) comprising an application surface (41) that comes into contact with the deposited layer of foundation composition (1), and:

a) the applicator (40) comprising an assembly of zones (42) enabling the application of the stimulus, the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network (20), which is (are) obtained being linked to the arrangement of said zones (42) on the surface (41), said zones (42) present on the surface (41) of the applicator (40) being constituted in particular by an assembly of heating elements and/or irradiators and/or elements that have a property of releasing a chemical reagent (120) or a solvent, and/or

b) the applicator (40) being brought into contact, in a spatially non-uniform manner, with the foundation (1) in order to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network (20) of islands (2).

21. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 and 17 to 19, the stimulus being applied at a distance from the deposited layer of foundation (1) so as to obtain the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network (20) of islands (2), the method comprising in particular, before application of the stimulus, a step of placing an openwork screen (50) opposite the deposited layer of foundation composition (1) and a device for application of the stimulus (60; 140) applying the stimulus through said screen (50), the pattern, and in particular the discontinuous network (20) of islands (2), which is (are) obtained being linked to the arrangement of the openings (52) in said screen (50).

22. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the pattern created reproducing the appearance of skin texture.

23. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, the pattern created reproducing the appearance of freckles.

24. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the pattern created being different from a pattern of a beauty spot.

25. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the pattern created not being created by a light interference phenomenon.

26. Cosmetic device (40) having a peripheral surface (41) comprising islands (42; 220) positioned non-uniformly in a surrounding surface, said islands (42; 220) each having a larger dimension of at least 0.8 mm and having a shape and/or properties for capturing and/or releasing a product present on the skin or to be applied thereto that are different to those of the surrounding surface, so as to lead to the creation on the skin of a pattern, the appearance of which is linked to the arrangement of the islands (42; 220) over the surface.

27. Device (40) according to Claim 26, the islands (42; 220) being in relief and forming a projection with respect to the surrounding surface.

28. Device (40) according to either one of Claims 26 and 27, the islands (42; 220) having physicochemical properties that are different from those of the surrounding surface, said islands (42; 220) preferably having properties for capturing and/or releasing a product present on the skin or to be applied thereto that are different to those of the surrounding surface.

29. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 28, the islands (42) being defined with the aid of pins (42) that can be moved relative to the surrounding surface, said movable pins (42) being defined in particular by electrically driven actuators.

30. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 28, the islands being defined by grains of a product that can be transferred to the skin.

31. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 29, the islands being defined by a liquid.

32. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 31, comprising islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension greater than or equal to 2 mm, in particular greater than or equal to 3 mm.

33. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 32, comprising both islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm, islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension greater than 2 mm and less than or equal to 3 mm and islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension greater than 3 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm.

34. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 33, the number of islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension between 0.8 and 2 mm being greater than the number of islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension greater than 2 mm and less than or equal to 3 mm and greater than the number of islands (42; 220) having a larger dimension greater than 3 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm.

35. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 34, comprising islands (42; 220) of circular contour.

36. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 35, comprising islands

(42; 220) that are touching and islands (42; 220) that are separate.

37. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 36, comprising islands (42; 220) of non-circular contour.

38. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 35 to 37, comprising islands (42; 220) of circular contour in a number greater than that of the islands (42; 220) of non- circular contour.

39. Device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 38, comprising adjacent islands (42; 220), the spacing (d) between which is greater than or equal to 2 mm.

40. Assembly (80) comprising a device (40) as defined in any one of Claims 26 to 39 and a makeup product (1) intended to be applied to the skin (P) using said device

(40).

41. Assembly (80) comprising a device (40) as defined in any one of Claims 26 to 39 and a master surface enabling the islands to be created on the surface, in particular a master surface having zones loaded with product and others devoid of product.

42. Method for making up the skin (P), comprising a step of displacing and/or capturing a product present on the skin (P) and/or a step of applying a product to the skin (P) using a device (40) according to any one of Claims 26 to 39, for creating visible zones (2), the distribution of which corresponds to that of the islands (42; 220) on the peripheral surface (41).

43. Method according to the preceding claim, the visible zones (2) being created by application of a product to the skin (P), said product comprising, preferably, an agent of red coloration.

44. Method according to Claim 42, the visible zones (2) being created by removal of product on the skin (P).

45. Method according to any one of Claims 42 to 44, comprising the prior application, to the skin (P), of a foundation (1), the visible zones (2) being created on the deposited layer of foundation ( 1 ) .

46. Method according to any one of Claims 42 to 45, the treatment using the device (40) being carried out without sliding of the peripheral surface (41) over the optionally made-up skin (P), preferably by rolling the peripheral surface (41) over the optionally made-up skin (P).

47. Method according to any one of Claims 42 to 46, a discontinuous network

(20) of visible zones (2) being created.