CN114615912B - System for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A system for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition to a surface to be treated of a predefined shape of skin, the system comprising: -at least one support having a receiving surface capable of adopting at least one application configuration of an incumbent shape substantially matching the contour of the surface to be treated, and-a deformable application member mounted on the receiving surface of the support having a first pick-up and application surface and a second surface opposite the first pick-up and application surface for attachment to the receiving surface of the support, the application member having an adaptation layer of variable thickness between the first surface and the second surface, the shape of the adaptation layer being chosen such that the relief of the first surface of the application member corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface to be treated than the relief of the receiving surface of the support when the support is in the application configuration.

Description

System for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a system for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, onto a surface to be treated of skin or lips having a predefined shape. The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing such a system, and to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular a cosmetic method, using the system.

Background

Many people make up on the face to mask certain imperfections or to enhance their external appeal by being as attractive and original as possible. This results in the desirability of extra makeup (i.e., makeup that is not used by others, and if possible, not duplicated). In addition, the original dressing can cultivate artistic ability, and the artistic ability of the user can be easily and quickly displayed.

With known cosmetics, various cosmetic effects, in particular on the eyelids, can be achieved, but these effects are limited to pure plain hues or to gradient effects based on two or three colors. In both cases, the colored fluid or powder is applied by a finger or using an applicator (e.g., brush) and spread out by mixing.

This approach does not allow complex patterns to be achieved. Although a gradual effect is very likely to occur based on two colors, this is difficult to master and so one would tend to choose two very similar colors instead of two very different colors. In so doing, the risk of error is limited, but the gradual effect is sometimes very imperceptible and hardly visible.

One known method is to use a printable film called a decal that, when applied, transfers the pattern to the skin. This approach is less desirable because it is highly impractical, especially for application in raised, raised or depressed areas, especially for complex areas (e.g., eyes that combine raised and depressed areas). When the user applies the decal, some portions of the pattern are transferred while other portions are not. Thus, the results tend to be unattractive and difficult to correct, necessitating removal and restarting.

This disadvantage can be alleviated by providing decal portions with a small surface area, it being understood that the raised areas can be considered as a large number of nearly flat patches. However, this method is very time consuming, because it requires a large number of operations and poses a risk of poor positioning of one or more parts relative to the other. Therefore, decals have not been developed as a common cosmetic method.

Another approach is to adhere a decal, especially a flexible decal, to the skin. This approach is relatively unsatisfactory because it requires the decal to be detached at a given moment, which creates discomfort and pulls on the skin, especially in the eye area.

Furthermore, if the application is performed imperfectly, a particularly unsightly effect is produced. Furthermore, since the decal is made of a flexible material, it can be made to conform to a surface having an axis of curvature (e.g., a cylinder), but not to a more complex surface (e.g., a sphere).

Application of decals (decals) or stickers to such areas involves pulling in a particular direction, creating a resilient force, resulting in folding or separation, especially on the edges. Thus, while the decal solution may be suitable for certain fairly flat areas, for example for reproducing linear effects on the eyelid, it cannot be used for areas with concave and raised portions, especially the whole eyelid area, or the lips or nose area, without applying a large amount of decal. In this case, the positioning problem of the decal described above occurs again.

Another approach is to use a three-dimensional applicator with a layer of color material placed on its surface. While this approach may be suitable for applying flat tones, it is not suitable for creating patterns.

There are applicators for applying cosmetics by transfer to the eyelid, e.g. fromPretty Glittering Eyeshadow to Seal applicator. The applicator includes a rubber support having an approximate eyelid shape. For applying the cosmetic, the cosmetic may be applied to the concave portion of the support with a brush, and then transferred onto the eyelid using an applicator. In the case of a simple cosmetic effect (i.e., a single color), the applicator may repeatedly apply the color to the surface.

The tests performed involved painting or drawing a pattern on the surface of the support using a cosmetic fluid. However, since the dexterity of the user is often limited, the results obtained are often disappointing and asymmetric from one eye to the other or from day to day.

Other tests using such applications in conjunction with decals were also performed. If the color layer is facing outwards when the film is applied, the film applied on the 3D applicator surface damages the pattern during operation, in particular due to the effect of the finger, resulting in a partial transfer to the finger. Only a portion of the pattern then remains on the applicator, resulting in limited transfer of the pattern to the face and imperfect end results.

If the colored layer is facing inward when the decal is applied and then the decal is removed, the pattern eventually appears on the surface of the 3D applicator, but upon contact with the skin, limited transfer of the pattern to the face is obtained.

Indoor tests have shown that in order to transfer a pattern effectively by such an applicator, the colour material layer needs to be transferred more easily to the skin, for example using a frangible pattern, i.e. a pattern made with the colour material layer, which breaks down or fragments are transferred from the first surface to the second surface by gentle contact with the second surface when it is applied to the first surface. These frangible patterns can be made in the form of loose powders or fluids.

However, without extreme precautions, it is almost impossible to apply the fragile pattern perfectly to the applicator surface, and thus no known solution is suitable for using such fragile pattern. Simple contact by the finger, or pressure generated by its placement on the applicator surface, damages the pattern, especially causing the pattern to become blurred and/or to fall off in certain parts.

Another known method is to use a soft material, such as a sponge, and then deposit a layer of cosmetic composition on its surface. Then, only the sponge needs to be pressed against the area to be made up. However, it has been found that the cosmetic composition spreads during handling, causing the pattern to slip and damage the pattern to an unrecognizable extent.

Patent application WO 2015/097613 describes a method for making up an area of human keratin materials with the aid of a make-up device having a deformable substrate with a transfer surface intended to receive a cosmetic ink deposited by a digital printer and to be in contact with the keratin materials, the substrate being pressed against the imprint of the support by deformation means (for example negative pressure) before the transfer surface is brought into contact with the area to be made up by mechanical action. Such a device has a rather complex structure.

Disclosure of the invention

Thus, there is a need for further improvements in the application of cosmetics to human keratin materials, in particular for the purpose of creating a pattern, in particular on the face, comprising areas with a predefined shape, in particular areas characterized by reliefs, and which do so precisely and easily, without any risk of deteriorating the pattern.

The present invention seeks, inter alia, to meet this need.

Disclosure of Invention

Accordingly, one subject of the present invention is a system for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, onto a surface to be treated of skin or lips having a predefined shape, said system comprising:

At least one support having a receiving surface which can adopt at least one application configuration of the inner curve which substantially matches the contour of the surface to be treated, and

-a deformable application member mounted on the receiving surface of the support, having a first pick-up and application surface and a second surface opposite the first surface for attachment to the receiving surface of the support, the application member having an adaptation layer of variable thickness between the first surface and the second surface, the shape of the adaptation layer being selected such that the relief of the first surface of the application member corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface to be treated than the relief of the receiving surface of the support when the support is in the application configuration.

By means of the invention, the cosmetic product, in particular in the case of a pattern, is applied while exactly following the relief of the relevant area, using an adaptation layer attached to the support in the application configuration.

The cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a transferable printed film.

The present invention is suitable for applying a cosmetic composition to human keratin materials. The term "human keratin materials" refers to the skin, including the scalp, lips, nails, hair and eyebrows, preferably the skin of the lips or face, especially the skin of the eyelids or cheeks. The present invention is more particularly applicable to the application of cosmetics to the eyelid.

Support and adaptation layer

The receiving surface of the support may take two different configurations, the application configuration of the incumbent generally matching the profile of the surface to be treated, and the configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition.

The invention thus makes it possible to easily pick up a film printed on a flat transfer surface without damaging said film by using the support in a pick-up configuration provided with an adaptation layer according to the invention.

In this embodiment, there is no need to contact the adaptation layer between pick-up and application of the cosmetic composition. The adaptation layer may deform and transition from one configuration to another without contacting the layer. Thereby reducing the risk of the cosmetic composition forming a deposition pattern on the adaptation layer.

The adaptation layer of the application member may be configured such that when the support is in the pick-up configuration, the relief of the second surface of the application member comprises a relief of a surface of the cosmetic composition, in particular of the print carrier, to pick up the cosmetic composition.

When the adaptation layer is attached to the support in the pick-up configuration, the spacing between the first surface of the application member and the surface carrying the cosmetic composition is advantageously small. The gentle squeeze of the adaptation layer may then be sufficient to bring said first surface of the application member into contact with the cosmetic composition and pick it up.

In another embodiment, the system further comprises a second support having a receiving surface, which may take a different configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition than the application configuration, the two supports being in particular interchangeable.

Advantageously, in this case, the adaptation layer of the application member is configured such that, when the second support is in the pick-up configuration, the relief of the second surface of the application member is adapted to include the relief of the surface of the cosmetic composition, in particular of the print carrier, to pick up the cosmetic composition.

In the pick-up configuration, the surface of the support may form a deployable surface. In this configuration, the application surface may be a portion of a cylinder. In this case, the support makes it possible in particular to pick up the transferable impressions from the surface of the applicator roller or the outer surface of the raised pad. In this configuration, the shape of the support surface may be opposite to that employed in the application configuration.

In another embodiment, the surface of the support may be substantially flat in the pick-up configuration. In this case, the support makes it possible in particular to pick up the transferable impressions from the surface of the planar surface.

In the application configuration, the surface of the support may have a concave or convex shape towards the outside. This makes it particularly possible to match the relief of the eyelid.

In the application configuration and during application to the surface to be treated, the first surface of the application member advantageously has a shape adapted to said surface to be treated. The application configuration may be selected such that the receiving surface of the support has a geometry that approximates the shape, in particular the morphological shape, of the surface to be treated. Such a choice makes it possible to minimize the variation in the thickness of the adaptation layer required to reproduce the morphological shape of the surface to be treated, with large variations in the thickness of the adaptation layer leading to the risk of embrittlement thereof and to rapid deterioration thereof. The term "morphological shape" refers to a shape that replicates the negative pressure (negative image) of a region of keratin material.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the surface of the support in the application configuration has a shape suitable for applying the cosmetic composition to the eyelid.

Preferably, the support is made of a non-deformable material, in particular a polymeric material, a metallic material or a composite material, or glass, ceramic, hard plastic or gypsum. For example, materials having a Shore A hardness of greater than 30, preferably greater than 50, are used.

In one variant, the support is made of a deformable material, in particular an elastically deformable material or a plastically deformable material, in particular a rubber, plastic or metal foil, which is sufficiently thin to be flexible.

In one embodiment, the support is connected to at least two elements movable relative to each other, such that the relative movement of the two elements generates mechanical stresses on the support and causes the support to deform between a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition and an application configuration.

The support advantageously transitions from one configuration to another configuration and vice versa without the need to manually apply pressure to the application surface of the adaptation layer. Thus, the picked-up cosmetic composition remains intact. In particular, if the cosmetic composition forms a pattern, the pattern can be transferred accurately without degradation.

Advantageously, the variable-thickness adaptation layer is made of a deformable, in particular elastic, material or comprises foam. The adaptation layer is thus advantageously a soft layer which can be easily molded. In particular, the adaptation layer may be molded so as to form a shape substantially complementary to the surface to be treated.

The adaptation layer may be elastically deformable, by elastically returning to its original configuration, which may correspond to the application configuration or the pick-up configuration of the support, preferably the pick-up configuration. The adaptation layer may be a single layer or multiple layers.

The adaptation layer may comprise at least one elastomer selected from the following non-limiting list: co-polybutadiene-styrene, butadiene-nitrile or isobutylene-isoprene, co-polyvinylchloride polysulphides, EPDM (ethylene-propylene-diene monomer) or polyethylene-propylene diamine or polyurethane, or silicone elastomers, such as VMQ (vinylmethylsilicone) or MQ, FVMQ (fluorosilicone), PVMQ (phenylsilicone).

The adaptation layer may comprise a foam selected from the following non-limiting list: polyurethane foam, latex foam, polyethylene foam, or melamine foam.

The adaptation layer may be non-absorbent. The adaptation layer is advantageously non-porous, at least on the surface of the application member for receiving the cosmetic composition. The pick-up surface and the application surface may be relatively smooth. In the case of foam, the application surface can be made non-porous by the presence of a skin (skin) obtained by molding on the foam.

For example, at each point of the adaptation layer, the thickness of said layer corresponds to the spacing between the surface to be treated and the receiving surface of the support in the application configuration.

Thus, the variation in the adapting layer thickness may depend on everyone. The shape of the application surface is advantageously personalized and adapted to the morphology of the user, the system being in particular customized. This personalized shape enables precise transfer of the cosmetic composition, especially when the composition forms a pattern.

The thickness of the adaptation layer measured along the longitudinal axis of the support may be between 1mm and 10mm, more preferably between 1mm and 5 mm.

Advantageously, the system according to the invention comprises means for attaching an adaptation layer, in particular photo-adhesive, magnet or hook-and-loop tape (hook-and-loop tape), to the receiving surface of the support, the adaptation layer preferably being configured to be removably attached to the receiving surface of the support. Thus, the same adaptation layer can be used in combination with different supports each having a given geometry. In this way, a single adaptation layer can be used to make up several areas of keratin materials.

For example, there may be one adaptation layer replicating the eyelid morphology and another adaptation layer replicating the cheek morphology and placing them on the same support.

In a variant, the adaptation layer is finally attached to the support.

The system may be configured such that the transition from one configuration to another occurs automatically as a result of user operation of the system. The support may be configured to take only two of these configurations. As a variant, the support may take more than two configurations, in particular an intermediate configuration.

The system may be configured to automatically return to one configuration upon release thereof by a user, by the inherent shape of the resilient return member and/or the support (when the support is resiliently deformable).

Cosmetic composition

The cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of an impression on a flat transfer surface, with the application surface in contact therewith entering into a pick-up configuration of the applicator. The cosmetic composition may be deposited on the transfer surface in the form of a printed colour pattern. Embossing may be performed on a film made of plastic material.

The printer may be a digital printer, in particular a laser printer, designed to allow the formation of a patterned layer of composition on the transfer surface using at least one cosmetic toner by electrophotography or magnetography, and to dispense the toner on the transfer surface in a sufficiently free state to allow it to be picked up or transferred by contact with human keratin materials.

The term "cosmetic toner" is understood to mean a powdered cosmetic composition compatible with the images formed by electrophotographic or magnetophotographic processes used in laser printers. The toner is cosmetic in terms of being compatible with application to human keratin materials. The formulation of the toner may be different depending on the surface to be made up. For example, for application to hair or nails, certain compounds may be used that may not be applied to, for example, the lips.

The laser printer may have a fuser (fuse) that is or may be disabled.

In certain variations, the printer is an inkjet printer, such as a thermal or piezoelectric inkjet printer, or a sublimation printer.

In the case of a cosmetic composition in the form of a transferable stamp, the stamp can be made in the form of a grating patch to form a halftone image, such as a mono-or polychromatic image.

The pattern formed by printing may be of any type. The pattern may replicate the appearance of relief and/or color heterogeneity of the skin, such as freckles or moles. The pattern obtained by printing may have several areas of different colors. In a variation, the pattern obtained by printing is a flat tone (flat tint).

The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a fluid or powder when carried by the application surface and prior to application to the keratin materials.

For example, when the cosmetic composition is a fluid, its viscosity ranges from 1mpa.s to 500mpa.s, preferably from 1mpa.s to 300mpa.s, at 25 ℃.

The viscosity of the compositions used in the present invention may be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular according to the following conventional method. Using a Rheomat180 viscometer equipped with a rotor rotating at 200rpm at a temperature of 25 ℃, one skilled in the art can select a rotor for measuring viscosity from the rotors M1, M2, M3 and M4 based on general knowledge so that measurement can be performed.

The cosmetic composition may take the form of a transferable stamp, corresponding to a powder layer, in particular a powder layer containing pigments, or to the thickness of a fluid deposited by inkjet, for example a fluid containing one or more dyes and/or one or more pigments.

The cosmetic composition may include one or more colorants selected from water-soluble dyes (dye), fat-soluble dyes, powdered colorants (dye status) (e.g., pigments, organic lakes, nacres (nacres), and flash flakes), or colored polymers.

The term "pigment" is understood to mean any form of particles, white or coloured, mineral or organic, which are insoluble in the cosmetic medium and are used to colour the cosmetic composition.

The term "organic lake" is understood to mean an organic pigment formed from a dye attached to a substrate.

The term "nacre" is understood to mean any form of iridescent particles, in particular produced in the shell of certain mollusks, or synthesized.

Pigments may be white, black or colored, and are mineral and/or organic. Mineral pigments which may be mentioned include titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated), zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type and lakes, as well as lakes based on carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

The nacre may be selected from white nacre (for example mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride), colored nacre (for example titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with iron blue or chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment) and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of carmine disodium salt, alizarin green disodium salt, quinoline yellow, amaranth trisodium salt, lemon yellow disodium salt, rhodamine monosodium salt, fuchsin disodium salt, lutein and methylene blue.

Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made of Sudan red III (CTFA: D & C red 17), lutein, quinizalin green (quinizarine green) (CTFA: D & C green 6), madarol violet SS (CTFA: D & C violet 2), sudan Brown (Sudan Brown), DC yellow 11, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin and carotenoid derivatives, such as lycopene, beta-carotene, carmine (bixin) or capsanthin and mixtures thereof. The coloured polymer is generally a copolymer based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to those skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the following documents: US-5032670, US-4999418, US-5106942, US-5030708, US-5102980, US-5043376, US-5104913, US-5281659, US-5194463, US-4804719, WO92/07913 or EP1048282.

The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more colorants, in particular photochromic pigments (i.e. colorants that have a color-changing property when irradiated with a light source of a specific frequency and then resume their original color or similar color when irradiation is stopped). Photochromic colorants which may be mentioned in particular include:

complex mineral photochromic compounds, more particularly doped aluminosilicates, metal oxides and metal oxide hydrates, such as those described in WO-A-02/36083;

photochromic naphthopyran compounds, in particular 3H-naphtho [2,1-b ] pyran or 2H-naphtho [1,2-b ] pyran, for example 3, 3-bis (4-methoxyphenyl) -6-morpholino-3H-naphtho [2,1-b ] pyran, 3-phenyl-3- (4-morpholinophenyl) -6-morpholino-3H-naphtho [2,1-b ] pyran, 3-phenyl-3- (4-piperidinylphenyl) -6-carboxymethyl-9-N-dimethyl-3H-naphtho [2,1-b ] pyran or 2-phenyl-2- (4-piperidinylphenyl) -5-carboxymethyl-9-N-dimethyl-2H-naphtho [1,2-b ] pyran. Such compounds are described in patent application EP-A-1410785;

diarylethene or fulgide compounds such as those described in patent application EP-A-938887.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The term "filler" is understood to mean particles of any shape, colourless or white, mineral or synthetic, which are insoluble in the composition medium, whatever the temperature at which they are manufactured. These fillers are used, inter alia, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

The filler may be mineral or organic and may be any shape, platelet, spherical or rectangular (oblong), regardless of the crystalline form (e.g., lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthogonal, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powder (nylon) (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-beta-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymers (polytetrafluoroethylene), laurolylysine (laurolysine), starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microspheres (for example Tospearls from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow Silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as stearates of zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

The cosmetic composition may also include additional polymers, such as film-forming polymers. The term "film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support, in particular to keratin materials. Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition, mention may be made of synthetic polymers of the radical type or of polycondensates, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof, in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas and polymers based on cellulose, for example nitrocellulose.

When the composition is based on a cosmetic toner as described above, the toner may include, in addition to the colorant, a compound for controlling charge, a specific additional filler, a lubricant, a wax, and/or a binder. Preferably, the toner particles have an average size between 1 μm and 16 μm. The toner includes, for example, pigments having a particle size between 1 μm and 10 μm.

The composition may include a hydrophilic phase (including one or more compounds that are miscible with water at 20 ℃) and an oil phase (including one or more compounds that are not miscible with water).

At an ambient temperature of 20 ℃, the hydrophilic phase may form a dispersed phase in the continuous phase formed by the oil phase, thereby obtaining a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. In one variation, the oil phase forms a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed from a hydrophilic phase at 20 ℃, thereby obtaining an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. The hydrophilic phase and/or the oil phase may each include one or more colorants.

The composition may include a surfactant to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or an oil-in-water surfactant. The HLB may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based surfactants or silicone surfactants, which will be chosen according to the desired emulsion direction, for example, for W/O emulsions, an HLB of less than 8, advantageously from 3 to 7, and for example, for direct emulsions (direct emulsions) an HLB of greater than or equal to 8.

Examples of silicone surfactants that may be mentioned are alkyl dimethicone copolyols (alkyldimethicone copolyol) type and dimethicone copolyols (dimethicone copolyol) type.

Examples of non-silicone surfactants that may be mentioned are nonionic surfactants, such as (poly) oxyalkylated (C2-C3 alkyl), (poly) glycerinated derivatives of alcohols, esters, ethers, comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, optionally (poly) oxyalkylated, (poly) glycerinated sorbitan esters or ethers; alkyl glycosides and mixtures thereof.

The anionic surfactant may for example be selected from alkyl (ether) sulphates, sulphonates, (alkyl) phosphates, salts of C10-C30 acids, especially metal salts, these surfactants comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based group containing at least 10 carbon atoms and may or may not be (poly) oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl), and mixtures thereof.

The solubility of the oil phase compound in water at 25 ℃ may be less than 5% by weight.

The oil phase compound may be selected from oils commonly used in cosmetics, which may be selected from natural or synthetic hydrocarbon-based silicone oils or fluoro oils, optionally branched, alone or as a mixture.

The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil capable of resting on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, especially an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure of less than 0.02mmHg (2.66 Pa) at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure.

Mention may be made in particular of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular oils of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin, liquid vaseline, squalane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam), perhydrosqualene, macadamia nut oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, cosmetic leaf oil (beauty-leaf oil), palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, arala oil (arara oil), rapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, cotton oil, almond oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil, shea butter; linear, branched or cyclic esters containing more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example esters of lanolin acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; esters derived from long-chain acids or alcohols, i.e. having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular esters of the formula RCOOR ', wherein R represents a higher fatty acid residue comprising from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C12-C36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate or 2-octyl dodecyl lactate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate and glycerol triisostearate or diglycidylester; higher fatty acids, in particular C14-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22 higher fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of liquid triglycerides of decanol, dodecanol, fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms (such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic/decanoic acid triglycerides); synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, such as duck tail oil (purcellin oil), isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, or fatty alkyl heptanoate, octanoate and decanoate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol.

Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-phenyl silicones, in particular, for example, polysiloxanes (also known as dimethicones). Phenyl silicones (in other words, silicones containing at least one phenyl substituent) are also suitable, for example phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and diphenyl siloxyphenyl trimethicone, alone or as a mixture.

Among the volatile compounds, mention may be made of non-silicone volatile oils, in particular C8-C16 isoparaffins, such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.

Linear or cyclic, but preferably linear, volatile silicone oils may also be suitable for use, such as, inter alia, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, volatile or non-volatile alkanes that are liquid at room temperature may be mentioned, more specifically decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclohexane and isodecane and mixtures thereof.

Among the preferred oil phase compounds, mention may be made of isododecane (boiling point: 180 ℃), isopropyl myristate (boiling point: 168 ℃), isostearyl alcohol (boiling point: 331 ℃), isodecyl pivalate (boiling point: 272 ℃), isononyl isononanoate (boiling point: 285 ℃), oleyl alcohol (boiling point: 315 ℃), 2-octyldodecanol (boiling point: 358 ℃), isopropyl palmitate (boiling point: 340 ℃), isopropyl isostearate (boiling point: 361 ℃), and mixtures thereof.

The oil may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 2% to 60%, preferably from 2% to 40%, preferably from 15% to 70%, particularly preferably from 2% to 25%, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

The oil phase may also include substances that are solid at room temperature, such as waxes.

The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 ℃) and has a reversible solid/liquid state change with a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ℃ and up to 120 ℃. By bringing the wax into a liquid state (melting), it can be made miscible with the oil that may be present and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture returns to room temperature, the wax in the mixture oil will recrystallize. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (d.s.c.), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler corporation.

The wax may be a hydrocarbon-based wax, a fluorowax, and/or a silicone wax, and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal, and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the wax has a melting point of greater than 40 ℃, and still better still greater than 50 ℃. As waxes which can be used in the composition, mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or fischer-tropsch wax, and silicone waxes containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, for example alkyl or alkoxy dimethyl silicones.

The nature and amount of wax depends on the desired mechanical properties and texture. As a guide, the composition, in particular in the form of an emulsion, may contain from 0.01% to 30% by weight of wax, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Method of manufacture

According to another aspect of the invention, the subject of the invention is also a method for manufacturing a system as described above for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, to the surface of the skin or lips to be treated having a predefined shape, wherein the shape and/or thickness of the external face (outer face) of the adaptation layer is selected by taking the topography (topograph) of at least a portion of said surface to be treated, in particular by 3D scanning.

The term "outer face" of the adaptation layer is understood to mean the face of the layer on the opposite side of the support.

The 3D scan may be performed using any 3D scanner capable of capturing the volume and size of the region of interest. The 3D scan is advantageously a scan generated by projecting stripes of light, but any other structured light is possible.

Advantageously, a file is generated that is readable by the CNC machine or the 3D printer, which can be saved, in particular automatically, for example in the cloud or on a central server.

The document may enable printing of the adaptation layer by 3D printing and/or printing of a mould used to form the adaptation layer.

The features of the system described above are applicable to the method of manufacture and vice versa.

Assembly

According to another aspect of the invention, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic assembly comprising: at least one system for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition to the surface of the skin or lips to be treated having a predefined shape according to the invention in the same package, and a plurality of transferable printed films for being picked up by the first pick-up and application surface of the application member of the system when the receiving surface of the support is in the pick-up configuration, the films being different from each other in particular in their composition and/or pattern.

The use of a plurality of transferable print films enables the changing of the make-up. Thus, the user can design his/her own makeup, print it out, and then apply it to the face.

The receiving surface of the support can take two different configurations, an application configuration of the incumbent (which substantially matches the profile of the surface to be treated) and a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition.

In one variant, the system comprises two supports, one having a receiving surface that can adopt a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition, the other having a receiving surface that can adopt an application configuration that is substantially matching the profile of the surface to be treated, the application configuration of the incumbent being different from the pick-up configuration.

The features of the system described above are applicable to cosmetic assemblies and vice versa.

Cosmetic treatment method

According to another aspect of the invention, the subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment, in particular a cosmetic method, of a surface to be treated of skin or lips having a predefined shape, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a transferable printed film, onto said surface by means of a pick-up and application system according to the invention, wherein

a) The first pick-up and application surface of the application member of the system is for picking up the cosmetic composition, the support being in a pick-up configuration, the composition being placed in particular on a printing support,

b) The support being in an application configuration, or the application member being attached to a different support in an application configuration,

c) The cosmetic composition is applied by contacting the pick-up and application surface of an adaptation layer with the surface to be treated, the shape of the adaptation layer being selected such that the relief of the first surface of the application member corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface to be treated than the relief of the receiving surface of the support when the support is in the application configuration.

The features of the system described above are applicable to cosmetic treatment methods and vice versa.

Drawings

The invention will be more clearly understood from a reading of the following detailed description of non-limiting embodiments and a study of the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 illustrates an example of a system according to the present invention in a pick-up configuration;

FIG. 2 is a view of an example of a system similar to FIG. 1 in an administration configuration;

fig. 3a shows a step of picking up a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 3b shows a step of picking up a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 3c shows a step of picking up a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 3d shows a step of picking up a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 4a shows a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 4b shows a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 4c shows a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 4d shows a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 5 shows a second example of a system according to the invention.

Detailed Description

Fig. 1 shows an example of a system 1 for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition P according to the invention in a pick-up configuration. The system 1 comprises a support 21 having a receiving surface 22 and a deformable application member 9 mounted on said receiving surface of the support 21. The application member 9 has a first pick-up and application surface 100 and a second surface 101 opposite to the first surface, the second surface 101 being intended to be attached to a receiving surface of the support 9, and an adaptation layer 10 having a variable thickness e between the first surface and the second surface.

The support comprises a grip member 20, i.e. a shaft in the example, which facilitates the user's operation of the system 1.

In the example considered, said receiving surface 22 of the support 21 can take two different configurations, one for picking up the cosmetic composition P, as shown in fig. 1, and another application configuration that substantially matches the profile of the surface to be treated, as shown in fig. 2. The adaptation layer 10 has a shape selected such that the relief of the first surface 100 of the application member 9 corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface to be treated than the relief of the receiving surface 22 of the support 21 when the support 21 is in the application configuration.

In the pick-up configuration shown in fig. 1, the receiving surface 22 of the support 21 is substantially flat.

In the example described, the adaptation layer 10 is made of a deformable material, in particular an elastic material, and the support 21 is made of a non-deformable material, in particular selected from a polymeric material, a metallic material or a composite material, or glass, ceramic, hard plastic or plaster. As a variant, the adaptation layer may comprise foam.

Fig. 2 shows the system 1 of fig. 1 when the support 21 is in the application configuration. For example, the arrangement is for applying cosmetics to the eyelid. In this configuration, the first surface 100 of the application member 9 has a shape adapted to the surface to be treated and to the second surface 101 and to the receiving surface 22 of the support 21, these surfaces being, in the example, curved inwards, more specifically concave outwards, so as to have a shape complementary to the morphology of the eyelid, for example.

The application surface 100 carries a cosmetic composition P to be applied to the surface Z to be treated of the user, which is pre-picked up by the support 21 in a pick-up configuration. At each point of the adaptation layer 10, the thickness e of the adaptation layer 10 advantageously corresponds to the spacing between the surface Z to be treated and the receiving surface 22 of the support 21 in the application configuration.

The shape and thickness of the outer face of the adaptation layer 10 are advantageously determined by taking the topography of at least a portion of the surface Z to be treated, in particular by 3D scanning. At least a part of the adaptation layer 10, in particular at least a part on the side of the application surface 100, or a mould for manufacturing the adaptation layer 10, may be manufactured by machining the preform or by additive, in particular by 3D printing.

The system 1 comprises means for connecting the adaptation layer 10 to the receiving surface 22 of the support 21, which in the example considered is the adhesive layer 11.

Fig. 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d show steps for picking up a cosmetic composition P using one embodiment of the system according to the invention. In this example, the cosmetic composition P is a patterned transferable printed film and is placed on the flexible carrier 13. For example, printing is performed using a laser printer, whose fuser has been deactivated. In this embodiment, the system 1 comprises two different interchangeable supports, one 21 being able to adopt a pick-up configuration and the other 21' adopting an application configuration. In this case, the adaptation layer 10 is configured to be removably attached to the receiving surface of the support.

To pick up the cosmetic composition P, the system 1 in the pick-up configuration is brought close to the flexible carrier 13, as shown in fig. 3 a. Next, as shown in fig. 3b, pressure is applied such that the adaptation layer 10 is compressed and the application surface 100 is at least partially in contact with the cosmetic composition P. The system 1 is then removed from the flexible carrier 13. The cosmetic composition P is then located on the first surface 100 of the application member 9, as shown in fig. 3 c. In the embodiment considered, two different supports are used, one for pick-up and the other for application, and then the application member 9 is detached from the support 21, as shown in fig. 3d, so as to be able to attach it to a second support for application.

Fig. 4a, 4b, 4c and 4d show steps for applying the cosmetic composition P according to the previous embodiment. In a first step, shown in fig. 4a, the application member 9 is attached to the second support 21' in the application configuration. Thus, the adaptation layer 10 is deformed and, once attached to the support 21', reproduces the negative impression of the surface to be treated. Next, as shown in fig. 4b and 4c, the system 1 is brought close to the surface Z to be treated, so as to bring the cosmetic composition P into contact with said surface Z. Thus, the adaptation layer 10 may fill the space between the surface Z to be treated and the support 21'. The cosmetic composition can then be transferred, reducing the risk of pattern degradation. Once the composition has been applied, the system 1 according to the invention is moved away from the surface Z to be treated, as shown in fig. 4d, so that the application is achieved.

Fig. 5 shows a variant of the system 1 according to the invention, in which the support 21 is connected to two relatively movable elements. The relative movement of these two elements generates mechanical stresses on the support 21 and causes the support 21 to deform between a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition P and an application configuration.

In the embodiment shown in fig. 5, the system 1 comprises rigid links 5, each rigid link 5 being constituted by an arm connecting the actuator 14 of the system 1 to the ends 2a and 2b of the support 21. The actuator takes the form of a push button 14 which is movable relative to the body of the system 1, the body of the system 1 defining the gripping member 7, the connection 5 being hinged to said body. In the present example, the system body defining the grip part 7 is provided with wings 12a and 12b for holding the system 1 when the user presses the button 14. These wings define two ergonomic supports configured to receive the fingers of a user in order to hold the system 1 when the other finger presses the button 14. To change the configuration, the user presses the button 14, causing the connection 5 to pivot and the support 21 to deform, which causes the adaptation layer 10 to deform without touching the cosmetic composition P deposited on the first surface 100 of the application member 9.

The invention is not limited to the examples just described.

Other types of support 21, 21' and adaptation layer 10, as well as other materials for producing the same, may be used.

Claims (21)

1. A system (1) for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition (P) onto a surface (Z) to be treated having a predefined shape of the skin or lips, the system (1) comprising:

-at least one support having a receiving surface capable of adopting at least one application configuration of an inner curve, said application configuration of the inner curve substantially matching the profile of the surface to be treated (Z), and

-a deformable application member (9) mounted on the receiving surface of the support, the deformable application member (9) having a first pick-and-apply surface (100) and a second surface (101) opposite to the first pick-and-apply surface (100) for attachment to the receiving surface of the support, the application member (9) having an adaptation layer (10) of variable thickness (e) between the first pick-and-apply surface (100) and the second surface (101), the shape of the adaptation layer (10) being chosen such that the relief of the first pick-and-apply surface (100) of the application member (9) corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface to be treated (Z) than the relief of the receiving surface of the support when the support is in an application configuration.

2. The system according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition (P) is in the form of a transferable printed film.

3. The system of claim 1, wherein the receiving surface of the support is capable of adopting two different configurations: -an application configuration of the incumbent substantially matching the profile of the surface to be treated, -a pick-up configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition (P).

4. A system according to claim 3, wherein the adaptation layer (10) of the application member (9) is configured such that when the support is in a pick-up configuration, the relief of the second surface (101) of the application member (9) is adapted to include the relief of the surface of the cosmetic composition (P) to pick up the cosmetic composition (P), such that gentle pressing of the adaptation layer (10) is sufficient to bring the first pick-up and application surface (100) of the application member (9) into contact with and pick up the cosmetic composition (P).

5. The system according to claim 1, further comprising a second support having a receiving surface, the receiving surface of the second support being capable of adopting a different configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition (P) than the application configuration, the support and the second support being interchangeable.

6. The system according to claim 5, wherein the adaptation layer (10) of the application member (9) is configured such that when the second support is in a pick-up configuration, the relief of the second surface (101) of the application member (9) is adapted to include the relief of the surface of the cosmetic composition (P) to pick up the cosmetic composition (P), such that gentle pressing of the adaptation layer (10) is sufficient to bring the first pick-up and application surface (100) of the application member (9) into contact with and pick up the cosmetic composition (P).

7. The system of claim 4, wherein in the pick-up configuration, the receiving surface of the support forms a deployable surface.

8. The system of claim 7, wherein in the pick-up configuration, the receiving surface of the support is substantially planar.

9. The system of claim 1, wherein in the applied configuration, the receiving surface of the support has a concave or convex shape.

10. The system according to claim 1, wherein the first pick-up and application surface (100) of the application member (9) has a shape adapted to the surface (Z) to be treated in an application configuration and during application to the surface (Z) to be treated.

11. The system of claim 1, wherein the support is made of a non-deformable material.

12. The system of claim 1, wherein the support is made of a deformable material.

13. The system of claim 1, wherein the support is connected to at least two elements movable relative to each other such that relative movement of the two elements creates mechanical stress on the support and causes the support to deform between a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition and an application configuration.

14. The system according to claim 1, wherein the adaptation layer (10) having a variable thickness (e) is made of a deformable material or comprises foam.

15. The system according to claim 1, wherein at each point of the adaptation layer (10), the thickness (e) of the adaptation layer (10) corresponds to the spacing between the surface to be treated (Z) and the receiving surface of the support in the application configuration.

16. The system according to claim 1, comprising means (11) for attaching the adaptation layer (10) to a receiving surface of the support, the adaptation layer (10) being configured to be removably attached to the receiving surface of the support.

17. A method for manufacturing a system according to claim 1 for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition (P) to a surface (Z) to be treated of skin or lips having a predefined shape, wherein the shape and/or thickness (e) of the outer face of the adaptation layer (10) is selected from the group of obtaining a topography of at least a portion of the surface (Z) to be treated.

18. Cosmetic assembly comprising, in the same package, at least one system (1) according to claim 3, said system (1) being intended to pick up and apply a cosmetic composition (P) to a surface (Z) to be treated of skin or lips having a predefined shape, and a plurality of transferable printed films intended to be picked up by a first pick-up and application surface (100) of an application member (9) of said system (1) when the receiving surface of said support is in a pick-up configuration, said films being different from each other in composition and/or pattern.

19. The assembly of claim 18, wherein the receiving surface of the support is capable of adopting two different configurations: an application configuration of the incumbent substantially matching the profile of the surface (Z) to be treated and a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition (P).

20. Assembly according to claim 18, wherein the system comprises two supports, one having a receiving surface capable of adopting a configuration for picking up the cosmetic composition (P) and the other having a receiving surface capable of adopting an application configuration of an incumbent substantially matching the profile of the surface to be treated (Z), said application configuration of incumbent being different from said pick-up configuration.

21. A method for cosmetic treatment of a surface (Z) to be treated with a predefined shape of the skin or lips, comprising applying a cosmetic composition (P) onto said surface (Z) by means of a pick-up and application system (1) according to claim 3, in which method

a) A first pick-up and application surface (100) of an application member (9) of the system (1) is used to pick up the cosmetic composition (P), the support being in a pick-up configuration, the composition (P) being placed on a print carrier,

b) The support being in an application configuration, or the application member (9) being attached to a different support in an application configuration,

c) -applying the cosmetic composition (P) by contacting a pick-up and application surface (100) of the adaptation layer (10) with a surface (Z) to be treated, the shape of the adaptation layer (10) being selected such that the relief of the first pick-up and application surface (100) of the application member (9) corresponds more finely to the relief of the surface (Z) to be treated than the relief of the receiving surface of the support when the support is in the application configuration.