WO2013091976A2

WO2013091976A2 - Foamable cosmetic product for skin care

Info

Publication number: WO2013091976A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/071824
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Welss; Eliane Emond; Susanne Dickhof
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2011-12-21
Filing date: 2012-11-05
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: EP2794031A2; DE102011089405A1; WO2013091976A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic product for skin care comprising, in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, (a) at least one sulfosuccinate semi-ester of formula (I), where M and M', independently, stand for a hydrogen atom or an equivalent of a cation, n stands for an integral number from 0 to 20, m stands for an integral number from 0 to 20, X stands for an oxygen atom, a NH group or a *-O--(C₂ to C₆)-alkylene- NH-* group, and R¹ stands for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C₈ to C₂₂)- alkenyle group or for a (C₈ to C₂₂)-alkyl group or, if m + n is greater than 0, for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C₈ bis C₂₂)-acyl group or, if m + n is greater than zero, for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C₈ to C₂₂) acyl group or, if m + n is greater than zero, for a (C₈ to C₂₂) acyl group, and (b) at least one N-(C₈ to C₃₀) acyl glutamic acid, and/or a salt thereof, can be foamed in particular by means of a non-aerosol container having a foaming device. The result is foam having excellent foam properties. The product according to the invention can be used as foam on the skin in a simple and targeted manner and conveys a pleasant feeling on the skin.

Description

"Foamable Cosmetic for Skin Care"

The present invention relates to foamable cosmetics which are advantageously used for the care of skin, in particular human skin.

Cosmetic skin care products serve various purposes. On the one hand, the consumer knows cleansing compositions for the skin, on the other hand, cosmetics enjoy great popularity, which improve the skin condition and thus the external appearance of the skin. The last-mentioned skin cosmetics usually remain on the skin (leave on) and are not rinsed off the skin like the cleansing agents (rinse off). For this reason, it is important that the leave on skin cosmetics are quickly absorbed through the skin. Due to the fast absorption of the leave on cosmetics, the user does not feel the cosmetic applied to the skin as a disturbing foreign body. Disorders occur especially when applied to hairy skin. The rapid absorption of the cosmetic through the skin favors a pleasant feeling on the skin.

Cosmetic skin care products are offered in a variety of dosage forms. For consumers, in addition to a reliable effect, it is important that the cosmetics are easy to apply to the skin. Often skin cosmetics are very effective, so they are released in small quantities. However, small amounts can be poorly distributed on the skin, which can lead to an, albeit not harmful, local overdose on the skin.

The object of the present invention was to provide nourishing skin cosmetics which are convenient and safe to use. The skin cosmetics should therefore be targeted and quickly applied to the site of action and local overdoses should be avoided. The nourishing skin cosmetics are intended to convey a pleasant feeling on the skin and allow the effect of the ingredients to develop optimally. In particular, the nourishing skin cosmetics should not be sticky. The cosmetic should not be white. A composition whitens when it comes to the application on the substrate (such as the skin) with the inclusion of air to form a spherical foam, which gives the impression of a whitish film on the substrate.

It has been found that nourishing skin cosmetics can be applied particularly safely and effectively as a foam and have the desired properties. However, the foam for this purpose must be firm and fine-pored, must not stick and must deliver the active ingredients optimally to the skin. A foam with this property profile can be prepared from a combination of a special sulfosuccinate half ester with N-acylglutamic acid. A first subject of the invention is a cosmetic agent comprising in a water-containing, cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula I)

(I)

wherein

M and M 'independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a cation,

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

X represents an oxygen atom, an NH group or a group

^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^*

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -

Alkenyl group or for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a ( C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and

(b) at least one N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) acylglutamic acid and / or a salt thereof.

A bond marked with the symbol ^* in formulas of this application corresponds to a free valence of the corresponding structural unit.

When the compound of the formula (I) is present as an acid, the radicals M and / or M 'are a hydrogen atom. The fragments M'O- and M0 ₃ S- of the formula (I) in this case form a hydroxy group or a sulfonic acid group. When the sulfosuccinate of the formula (I) according to the invention is in the form of a salt, M and / or M 'represent one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation. The monovalent or polyvalent cation M ^{z +} or M ' ^{z +} with a charge number z of one or higher serves, for reasons of electroneutrality, to compensate for the single negative charge of the present sulfinate fragment of formula (I). The equivalent of the corresponding cation to be used is 1 / z. The fragment M'O- or the fragment MO ₃ S- of the formula (I) are in the case of salt formation for the group: 1 / z (Μ ' ^{z +} ) Ό- or the group: 1 / z (M ^{z +} ) ^" 0 ₃ S-.

In principle, all cations are suitable as monovalent or polyvalent cations M ^{z +} or M ' ^{z +} . In particular, these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from the groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol. M and M 'are each independently a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or half an equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, a sodium ion, a potassium ion, calcium ion, magnesium ion or zinc ion.

Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that, according to formula (I), n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular an integer from 1 to 10.

Further, it is preferable that m in the formula (I) is zero.

Such sulfosuccinate half esters according to formula (I), in which X represents a group ^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^* , turned out to be advantageous according to the invention. In this case, it is again preferred if the group ^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^{* of} the formula (I) for ^* -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ NH- ^* , ^* -O-CHMeCH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CHMeCH ₂ CH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CH ₂ CHMeCH ₂ -NH- ^* or ^* -O- CH ₂ CH ₂ CHMe-NH- ^* stands.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I-1)

wherein

M and M 'independently represent a hydrogen atom or an equivalent of one

cation,

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl, butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl .

R ¹ represents a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group.

Most preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I-2)

wherein M and M 'independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a cation,

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group.

Corresponding particularly preferred sulfosuccinate half-esters of the formula (I) are selected from a compound of the group formed from disodium PEG-4 cocamido MIPA sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitoleeamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinates, disodium Tallowamido MEA sulfosuccinates, disodium oleamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleth-3 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinates.

Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, based on the total weight of the agent, the compounds of the formula (I), in particular the preferred representatives, in an amount of from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight .-%.

As a second obligatory component, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -acylglutamic acid and / or a salt thereof.

The N-acylglutamic acid present in the two- or multiphase agents of the process according to the invention is a condensation product of glutamic acid with saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures, such as, for example, oleic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, Capric acid, palmitic acid, undecylenic acid, coconut fatty acid and abietic acid. These condensation products can also be present in the form of salts, in particular sodium, potassium, magnesium and triethanolamine salts.

Examples of commercially inventive N-acyl glutamic acids or their salts are Plantapon ^® ACG 35 (Cognis Germany), Protelan ^® AG 8 (Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana), Protelan ^® AG 100 (Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana), Protelan ^® AG 1 10 / N (Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana), Sepifeel One ^® (Seppic), Protelan ^® AG 89 / K (Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana), Amisoft ^® ECS-22 (Ajinomoto USA), Amisoft ^® LS-22 (Ajinomoto USA) , Amisoft ^® HS-22 (Ajinomoto USA) and glutamates ^® MK-1 1 (Ajinomoto USA).

The N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -acyl-glutamic acid or salts thereof is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2.0 to 4.0% by weight, based on the weight of the agent.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one oil component.

Oil components which are suitable according to the invention are, in principle, all oils and fatty substances and also mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. Oil components have a solubility in water at 20 ° C of less than 0.1% by weight. The melting point of each oil or Fat components are preferably below about 40 ° C. Oil components which are liquid at room temperature, ie below 25 ° C., may be particularly preferred according to the invention. When using multiple oil and fat components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is usually sufficient, however, if the mixture of oil and fat components and possibly paraffins and waxes meets the above conditions.

A preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils are also suitable, in particular such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils.

According to the invention preferably usable oil components are finally di (C ₆ to C ₂₎ alkyl carbonates. Dioctyl carbonates, especially the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate (INCI name:, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.

Also preferably used according to the invention oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred. This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. In the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, with alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, which, for. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Isononansäure- C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Glycerintricaprat, glyceryl triisostearate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinatV caprylate and n-butyl stearate.

Another group of oil components which can be used according to the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, Di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n -octylether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Also, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate and Neopentylglykoldi-capylate oil components used in the invention, as complex esters such. B. the diacetyl-glycerol monostearate.

Finally, oil components which can be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes. Examples of such silicones are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abif-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer : Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80). For the purposes of the invention, silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C., may be preferred. Very particular preference is given to silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt, measured at 25.degree. The determination of the viscosities is carried out according to the falling ball method according to the method "british standard 188". Comparable values are obtained with manufacturer's "British Standard 188" analog test specifications, for example "CTM 0577" from Dow Corning Corporation.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains the oil components in an amount of from 5.0% by weight to 50% by weight, particularly preferably from 10.0% by weight to 40% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention, if it contains at least one oil component in the preferred embodiment, may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or in two or more continuous phases (hereinafter referred to as " Two-phase or multi-phase system "), which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, the latter embodiment being particularly preferred according to the invention. Two-phase or multi-phase systems according to the invention are systems in which there are at least two separate, continuous phases. Examples of such systems are preparations which have the following phases:

An aqueous phase and a nonaqueous phase which are separate from each other

An aqueous phase and two non-aqueous, immiscible phases, each being separate

An oil-in-water emulsion and a nonaqueous phase separated therefrom

A water-in-oil emulsion and an aqueous phase separated therefrom.

No two-phase systems in the context of the present invention are systems in which only a continuous phase is present, such. As pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. Such systems fall under the term "homogeneous mixture"

To achieve a consistently effective effect of a two- or multi-phase system, on the one hand, the homogeneous mixing of the phases before the application, and on the other hand, the reversibility of this mixture is crucial. The compositions of the invention in the embodiment as a two-phase or multiphase system thus unfold their full effect only when they are applied in a homogeneous form to the skin. For this purpose, the two- or multi-phase system before use by mechanical action, for. As simple shaking the container containing them by hand, reversibly converted into a homogeneous system. In order to ensure a homogeneous application to the skin, this homogeneous state of the agent must be maintained for a sufficient time before the individual phases form again. For the teaching according to the invention, it has proven to be sufficient if this homogeneous state is stable for at least 20 seconds, in particular at least 30 seconds, before a boundary layer and thus the formation of the individual phases becomes recognizable to the viewer. After a certain period of time, preferably of not more than 60 minutes, more preferably of not more than 30 minutes, the reversible mixing of the phases has taken place by demixing, so that the initial state is achieved again to obtain the two-phase or multi-phase system.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention, it has proven advantageous to add as preservative at least one compound of the formula (K1) to the agent according to the invention

wherein

R is a linear or branched (Ci to d ₈ ) alkyl group (in particular a (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl group) and R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

A preferred ingredient of formula (K1) is ethyl lauroyl arginate (ELA or LAE), also referred to as ethyl N ^alpha -dodecanoyl-arginate. Each stereoisomer of ethyl lauroyl arginate alone or in combination is in accordance with the invention, but preferably the L-form is suitable. Eth llauroylarginate is commercially available, for example, as the hydrochloride

which is also referred to as ethyl-N ^apa -dodecanoyl-L-arginate hydrochloride. LAE is considered harmless, even for use in food.

The compounds of the formula (K1) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition By means of, included.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients according to the invention (and optionally further active ingredients and / or adjuvants) in a cosmetic carrier. Usually, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are formulated with an aqueous or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier. Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight and in particular at least 60% by weight of water.

Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional. Preferred ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be: absorbents, antimicrobials, binders, bleaches, chelating agents, emollients, emulsifiers / dispersants, emulsion stabilizers, depilatories and hair growth inhibiting agents, moisturizers, film formers, dyes, preservatives, corrosion inhibitors, skin cooling agents, pH Value regulator / buffer substances, surfactants / detergent substances, propellants, opacifiers, UV absorbers / light filter substances, denaturants, viscosity regulators. The aforementioned ingredients may, according to further preferred embodiments, be present as sole additive in agents preferred according to the invention.

In addition, combinations of the abovementioned ingredients may also be present in the agents preferred according to the invention.

For stable thickening of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preference is given to using at least one thickening agent selected from at least one compound from the group which is formed Homopolymer or copolymer of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),

Homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid,

Polysaccharide, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,

Hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, xanthan gum, guar gum.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore preferably additionally comprise at least one homopolymer or copolymer of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized. Said polymer is in turn preferably crosslinked. The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polymers preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.005 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).

The partial neutralization of the acid groups results in the neutralized monomer unit, for example sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate or ammonium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo -2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate, and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid. Suitable neutralized monomers are all 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt. Particularly preferred are sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate and ammonium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate ,

A first preferred thickener is the crosslinked AMPS homopolymer ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate. Such a crosslinked AMPS homopolymer is available, for example, from Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS.

Particularly preferred are, in addition to the crosslinked AMPS homopolymers, the crosslinked AMPS copolymers. Preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers contain, besides AMPS, one, two or three different monomers which may be neutral or have a weak acid function. Of course, cross-linked AMPS copolymers are suitable, which in addition to AMPS have four or even more monomers.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer contains as the second monomer a neutral monomer which is selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, Acrylamide, alkylacrylamides such as methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, dialkylamides such as dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, the ethoxylated derivatives of the aforementioned esters and amides, and N-vinylpyrrolidone. The neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is particularly preferably selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of said esters, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and N-vinylpyrrolidone. Extremely preferred neutral polyelectrolyte monomers are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone. Outstandingly preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and N-vinylpyrrolidone, AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, AMPS and dimethylacrylamide.

Particularly preferred ethoxylated derivatives of the above-mentioned (meth) acrylic esters and (meth) acrylic amides are those of the following formula (AMPS-copol) in which R1 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an approximately linear or branched alkyl group 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Y is O or NH; R 2 is a hydrocarbon group having 6 to 50 carbon atoms; and x is the number of moles of the alkylene oxide and is in the range from 1 to 50, preferably 8 to 20,

(AMPS Copol).

A preferred crosslinked ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer is available from Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickening crosslinked AMPS copolymer as the second monomer contains a weak acid monomer selected from among acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, the weak acid being partially or completely neutralized, and as a salt , is preferably present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt, particularly preferably as the sodium salt. Other highly preferred crosslinked AMPS copolymers are selected from crosslinked copolymers consisting of AMPS and sodium acrylate, AMPS and sodium methacrylate, AMPS and acrylamide and sodium acrylate, AMPS and acrylamide, and sodium acrylate and acrylic acid.

A preferred cross-linked sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer is available from Seppic under the designation Simulgel EPG. Other preferred crosslinked copolymers with 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) are available commercially, e.g. B. under the trade names SimulgefNS, Simulgel ^® l-NS 100, Simulge FL, Sepiplus ^® S, Simulgel ^® 600, Sepiplus 400, SimulgefSMS 88, Simulgel ^® EG and Simulgel ^® EPG from Seppic.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably contain, in addition to or in place of the abovementioned AMPS polymers, at least one homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid whose acid groups are partially or completely neutralized. Particular preference is given to homopolymers of acrylic acid. Such polymers have the INCI name carbomer.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention comprises said polymers, in particular homopolymers of acrylic acid, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).

In addition to the above-mentioned AMPS polymers or in their place, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from at least one compound of the group, in addition to or in place of the homo- / copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid is formed from xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains said polysaccharides, in particular the preferred representatives, preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 5.0% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent. This applies in particular to compositions according to the invention which contain the preferred preservative compositions of embodiments (A) to (X) (in particular combined with the preferred quantities of their ingredients in the cosmetic composition).

The following embodiments (A) to (P) of the invention are very particularly preferred according to the invention:

(A): Cosmetic agent containing in a water-containing, cosmetic carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

X represents an oxygen atom, a group NH or a group ^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^*

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkenyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -acyl group, and

(b) at least one N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) acylglutamic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

(c) at least one oil component.

(B): Cosmetic agent containing in a hydrous, cosmetic carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (1-1)

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ¹ represents a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

(c) at least one oil component.

Cosmetic agent containing in a water-containing, cosmetic carrier, in each case based on the total weight of the agent

(a) 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-%, of at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

(I)

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

R stands for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -alkenyl group or for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and

(b) from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, in particular from 2.0 to 4.0% by weight, of at least one N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) acylglutamic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

(C) 5.0 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 10.0 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, of at least one oil component.

(D): cosmetic agent containing in a water-containing, cosmetic carrier,

(a) 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-%, of at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (1-1)

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and

Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

(c) at least one oil component.

: Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (1-1)

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ )

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

(c) at least one oil component.

(G): Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

Cosmetic composition in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ )

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

(C) 5.0 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 10.0 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, of at least one oil component. (I): Cosmetic agent containing in a hydrous, cosmetic carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

R stands for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkenyl group or for a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

(c) at least one oil component, and

(d) at least one compound of the formula (K1)

(K1)

wherein

R is a linear or branched (Ci to Ci ₈ ) alkyl group (in particular a (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl group) and

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

(J): Cosmetic agent containing in a hydrous, cosmetic carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (1-1)

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10, X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and

(c) at least one oil component, and

(d) at least one compound of the formula (K1)

(K1)

wherein

R is a linear or branched (Ci to d ₈ ) alkyl group (in particular a (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl group) and

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to C ₁₄ ) acyl group.

(I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

(C) 5.0 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 10.0 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, of at least one oil component, and (d) 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0, 1 to 1, 0 wt .-%, of at least one compound of formula (K1)

wherein

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

(L): Cosmetic agent containing in a water-containing, cosmetic carrier,

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ )

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

(C) 5.0 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 10.0 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, of at least one oil component, and

(d) 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0, 1 to 1, 0 wt .-%, of at least one compound of formula (K1)

wherein

R is a linear or branched (Ci to Ci ₈ ) alkyl group (in particular a (Ci to C ₃ ) alkyl group) and R is a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

(M): Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

(I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

(c) at least one oil component, and

(d) at least one compound of the formula (K1)

(K1)

wherein

R is a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₈₎ alkyl group (especially, a (C ₁ to C ₃₎ - alkyl) group and

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

(N): Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (1-1)

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and

(c) at least one oil component, and

(d) at least one compound of the formula (K1)

(K1)

wherein

R is a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl group (in particular a (C ₁ to C ₃ ) -alkyl group) and

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

(O): Cosmetic agent in the form of two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action, containing water and

(I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

R stands for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C 22) -alkenyl group or for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) acyl group, and (b) from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, in particular from 2.0 to 4.0% by weight, of at least one N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) acylglutamic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

(K1)

wherein

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to C ₁₄ ) acyl group.

wherein

n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10,

X is ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, butane-1,2-diyl,

Butane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ )

Acyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) acyl group, and

wherein

R is a linear or branched (C 1 -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl group (in particular a (C 1 -C ₃ ) -alkyl group) and

R ^{2 is} a linear or branched (C ₈ to d ₄ ) acyl group.

It is particularly preferred in the context of the present invention if the agent according to the invention is present as a foam. To provide a foam, the agents according to the invention (in particular the above embodiments (A) to (P)) are preferably packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container By definition, the product is distributed through a valve by the internal gas pressure of the container, which is defined as an "aerosol container." The "foam" generated by this is called a "aerosol foam." In contrast to the definition of aerosol, the term "nonaerosol container" defines a container under normal pressure By means of a mechanical action of a foaming device, a product is foamed by a pumping or squeezing system, a foam generated in this way being called "nano-aerosol foam".

Particularly preferred are the agents according to the invention for producing a fine-pored, solid and non-sticky non-aerosol foam. Therefore, a second aspect of the invention is a nonaerosol product comprising a non-aerosol container with a storage container and a foaming device and a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention (in particular of the preferred embodiments (A) to (P).) According to the invention, a foaming device is a technical one The foaming device preferably comprises a mixing chamber, at least one foam generating device and a foam channel, optionally divided into a foam guide channel and foam outlet channel.

The mixing chamber usually has an inlet for the liquid composition from the reservoir and an inlet for air. The supply of the agent according to the invention for the inlet into the mixing chamber is preferably carried out by a riser, which is attached at one end to the inlet of the mixing chamber and immersed with its other end in the inventive agent. The foam generating device is preferably arranged in the foaming device such that when a pumping operation is carried out on the pumping container or squeezing operation on the squeeze reservoir, air and the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention simultaneously enter the mixing chamber and from there foam through the foam generating device into the foam channel. The foam-generating device preferably comprises at least one porous material, such as a porous ceramic, or more preferably at least one network. If the foam generator is a net, the mesh preferably has a hole density of 50 to 220 mesh (mesh = number of holes per inch), more preferably 90 to 200 mesh, most preferably 125 to 175 mesh.

The foaming device preferably comprises a mixing chamber, at least one foam generating device in the form of a net and a foam channel. The latter is optionally subdivided into a foam guide channel and foam outlet channel.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, air and the agent according to the invention is conveyed simultaneously in the mixing chamber and pushed from there by a first foam generating device in the form of a network when performing a pump or squeezing process, the resulting foam passes into the foam guide channel, where it exits before the nonaerosol container is pressed by a second foam generating device in the form of a network in the foam outlet channel. The first mesh preferably has a hole density of 50 to 220 mesh (mesh = number of holes per inch), more preferably 90 to 200 mesh, most preferably 100 to 175 mesh. The second net preferably has a hole density of 160 to 280 mesh, more preferably 175 to 245 mesh, and most preferably 180 to 220 mesh.

A particularly preferred pump container is a nonaerosol container with a pumping and foaming device of the company Rexam (Rexam pump M3-S10, mesh 100/200 with 0.4 mL consumption of inventive agent for foam conversion per pumping operation).

A non-aerosol container in the form of a squeeze container usually comprises a squeeze storage container which contains the agent according to the invention and whose elastic walls can be reversibly compressed. The squeeze storage container has at the upper end an opening which opens into a foaming device. The squeeze storage container preferably has an internal volume of 100 to 200 mL. The squeeze storage container is preferably filled with the agent according to the invention such that at least 20% of the internal volume, more preferably at least 30% of the internal volume, is filled with air.

Preferably, the walls of the squeeze reservoir are made of a polyolefin such as polypropylene (PP), high density polyethylene (HDPE), medium density polyethylene (MDPE), low density polyethylene (LDPE), linear low density polyethylene (LLDPE). Of these, polypropylene (PP) is preferably suitable. If the composition according to the invention is in the form of a preferred two-phase or multi-phase system (vide supra), the agent according to the invention is first converted into a homogeneous form prior to foaming by mechanical action, such as shaking the nonaerosol container. The homogeneous agent is then foamed.

A third aspect of the invention is a method for applying a cosmetic agent to skin, wherein a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is foamed and applied as a foam to the skin and preferably left on the skin.

The foaming of the agent according to the invention is preferably carried out with the aid of a non-aerosol container.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention is in the form of a two-phase or multi-phase system and is reversibly converted into a homogeneous system by mechanical movement before being applied to the skin and subsequently foamed. The foaming of the agent according to the invention also takes place here preferably with the aid of a non-aerosol container.

The characteristics of the first and second subject matter of the invention which are preferred according to the invention are also valid mutatis mutandis for the third subject of the invention.

A fourth object of the invention is the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the care of the skin, in particular the human skin. The inventively preferred features of the first, second and third subject invention apply mutatis mutandis for the fourth subject of the invention.

B e i s p e e l e:

The compositions of Table 1 were provided. The quantities are, unless otherwise indicated, wt .-%.

Table 1: Test compositions

20% by weight of ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl in 80% by weight of glycerol (INCI name: ethyl lauroyl arginale HCl, glycerol) (Vedeqsa)

INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water) (contains 35% by weight of water) (BASF SE) The formulations were placed in a non-aerosol pumping vessel (Rexam pump M3-S10 mesh 100/200 mesh with 0.4 mL foam conversion per pumping operation) and each gave a system of two continuous phases. The recipe E1 is according to the invention. The recipes V1 to V3 are for comparison.

A panel of 5 independent experts were each provided with the four compositions in a blind trial. The containers were shaken, the two-phase system homogenized and foamed by pressing the pump with foaming. The experts evaluated the foam applied from the non-aerosol containers in terms of foam quantity, foam stability and the foam structure with grades 0 to 3 (0 = poor, 3 = very good). Further, the applied foamy agent was applied to the skin and rubbed in each case. The experts assessed the skin feel, the degree of whiteness and the stickiness of the foam with the criteria (++ = very good, no wisdom, not sticky, + = good, almost no wisdom, hardly noticeable sticky, 0 = average, hardly whitewashed , noticeably sticky; - = bad, whitens strongly, sticks; - = very bad, whitters very much, sticks strongly).

The experts finally gave the test compositions a grade of 1 to 10 (10 = very good, 1 = very bad).

The results for the above test compositions are illustrated in Table 2.

Table 2: Results panel test

The composition according to the invention had a significantly better foam.

Claims

P a n t a n s p r e c h e

Cosmetic agent containing in a hydrous, cosmetic carrier,

(a) at least one sulfosuccinate half ester of the formula (I)

(I)

wherein

n stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

m stands for an integer from 0 to 20,

R is a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkenyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) alkyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -acyl group or if m + n is greater than zero for a (C ₈ to C ₂ 2) -acyl group,

and

Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that according to formula (I) n is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular an integer from 1 to 10.

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that m is zero.

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that X represents a group ^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^* .

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the group ^* -O- (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkylene-NH- ^{* of} the formula (I) represents ^* -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ NH- ^* , * -O-CHMeCH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CHMeCH ₂ CH ₂ -NH- ^* ,

* -O-CH ₂ CHMeCH ₂ -NH- ^* , ^* -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CHMe-NH- ^* .

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the composition, it contains the compounds of the formula (I) in an amount of from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 3, 0 wt .-%, contains.

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent, the N- (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -acylglutamic acid and / or salts thereof in total in an amount of 1, 0 to 10.0 wt. -%, in particular from 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, contains.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one oil component.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains ethyl lauroylarginate.

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is present in two or more continuous phases, which can be reversibly mixed by mechanical action.

1 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is present as a foam.

A nonaerosol product comprising a non-aerosol container having a reservoir and a foaming device and a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 in the reservoir.

13. A method for applying a cosmetic composition to skin, wherein a cosmetic agent of claims 1 to 10 is foamed and applied as a foam on the skin and preferably left on the skin.

14. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for the care of the skin, in particular the human skin.