WO2012110302A2 - Composition contenant des composites filtrants et des particules d'agents filtrants inorganiques, qui sont modifiés au plan de l'hydrophobie avec une huile ou une cire d'origine naturelle - Google Patents

Composition contenant des composites filtrants et des particules d'agents filtrants inorganiques, qui sont modifiés au plan de l'hydrophobie avec une huile ou une cire d'origine naturelle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012110302A2
WO2012110302A2 PCT/EP2012/051422 EP2012051422W WO2012110302A2 WO 2012110302 A2 WO2012110302 A2 WO 2012110302A2 EP 2012051422 W EP2012051422 W EP 2012051422W WO 2012110302 A2 WO2012110302 A2 WO 2012110302A2
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particles
inorganic
screening agent
oil
composition according
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PCT/EP2012/051422
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English (en)
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WO2012110302A3 (fr
Inventor
Cécile GRARE
Céline PHILIPPON
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012110302A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012110302A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0283—Matrix particles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/621—Coated by inorganic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/622—Coated by organic compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing composite particles A between 0.1 and 30 pm in size comprising a matrix and a screening material, and particles B of inorganic UV-screening agent, which are hydrophobic- treated with at least one oil or wax of natural origin.
  • This composition is for topical use and is more particularly intended for the photoprotection of the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
  • UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing of the skin.
  • antisun compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A range and in the UV-B range are generally used.
  • Many cosmetic products exist comprising one or more inorganic and/or organic UV-screening agents.
  • Fine particles of a metal oxide such as titanium oxide (T1O2) are usually used for children's skin or sensitive skin, to protect the skin against UV rays. These fine metal oxide particles generally have a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.1 pm, preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and preferentially between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
  • Patent applications FR 2882371 , WO 2006/083326 and WO 98/37964 describe various processes for manufacturing composite particles formed from a material comprising nanoparticles of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide.
  • Application WO 2006/061 835 describes compositions comprising spherical composites based on a metal oxide and on a hydrophobic polymer.
  • EP 1 388 550 which targets the use of composite particles comprising a core formed of a metal oxide coated with a silicone or fluoro compound and the use thereof as a photoprotective cosmetic composition
  • application WO 98/22539 which describes a sunscreen containing a particle of silicon and/or of another solid compound in which the silicon is in stoichiometric excess, the said particle having a mean diameter of less than 0.12 pm and being covered with a layer of oxide having a thickness ranging from 0.001 to 0.3 pm.
  • Antisun formulations that may contain as screening system spherical particles of composite material with a mean size of between 2 and 7 pm, T1O2 encapsulated in spherical silica particles, are known, such as those sold under the name Eospoly TR by the company Creations Couliv or under the name Sunsil T50 by Sunjin Chemical. These screening materials have the drawback of leading to formulations whose efficacy still remains insufficient.
  • Patent application US 2010/0 136 065 discloses antisun formulations that may contain, as screening system, particles of inorganic UV-screening agent, which are hydrophobic-treated with an oil or wax of natural origin. These screening materials have the drawback of leading to formulations whose efficacy still remains insufficient. There is thus still a need for UV sun protection compositions based on inorganic UV-screening agents, which afford efficient photoprotection and which do not have the drawbacks presented above.
  • a first subject of the present invention concerns a cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • composition according to the present invention is effective in photoprotection.
  • compositions according to the present invention are photoprotective compositions intended to screen UV radiation; these compositions are also known as anti-sun compositions or sun protection compositions.
  • mean size of the particles is understood to mean the parameter D[4,3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" particle size analyser (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted to size distribution according to Mie theory. The parameter D[4,3] is measured; this is the mean diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For a spherical particle, reference will often be made to the "mean diameter".
  • mean elementary size means the size of non-aggregated particles.
  • oil means a compound that is liquid at room temperature.
  • wax means a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35°C.
  • the spherical and non-spherical particles A used according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV-screening agent.
  • the matrix comprises one or more organic and/or inorganic materials.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent is generally chosen from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides or mixtures thereof and more particularly from titanium oxide and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent is T1O2.
  • These metal oxides may be in the form of particles with a mean size generally of less than 200 nm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 pm.
  • the composite particles A contain an inorganic UV- screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the mass content of metal oxide in the particles of the invention is between 1 % and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65% and better still between 3% and 60%.
  • the composite particles A comprise a matrix covered with a layer of UV-screening agent
  • the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
  • the screening composite particles A may be chosen from those of spherical shape, those of non-spherical shape, or mixtures thereof.
  • spherical is understood to mean that the particle has a sphericity index, i.e. the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1 .2.
  • non-spherical refers to particles in three dimensions (length, width and thickness or height) for which the ratio of the longest dimension to the shortest dimension is greater than 1 .2.
  • the dimensions of the particles of the invention are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis. They comprise particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height. When the shape is circular, the length and the width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, whereas the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc.
  • the length and the width correspond, respectively, to the large axis and the small axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptic disc formed by the platelet.
  • the length and the width may be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same dimension, the shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is a square; in the contrary case, the shape is rectangular.
  • the height it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.
  • the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 % to 70%, preferably from 1 .5% to 45%, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the inorganic materials that may be used in the matrix of the spherical composite particles according to the present invention may be chosen from the group formed by glass, silica and aluminium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic materials that may be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polycaprolactams, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes, polyesters and polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the matrix of the spherical composite particle A contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen from:
  • the composite particles A in spherical form are characterized by a mean diameter between 0.1 pm and 30 m, preferably between 0.2 pm and 20 pm and more preferably between 0.3 pm and 10 pm, advantageously between 0.5 pm and 10 pm.
  • the spherical composite particles A contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are included.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of less than 200 nm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 pm.
  • composite particles A As composite particles A corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company Sunjin Chemical. These spherical composite particles with a mean size between 2 and 7 pm are formed from T1O2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
  • the spherical composite particles A contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV-screening agent connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV- screening agent is generally between 0.001 and 0.2 pm and preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 pm.
  • the spherical composite particles A used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 pm, preferably between 0.3 and 20 pm and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 10 pm.
  • the composite particles A that may be used according to the invention mention may also be made of spherical composite particles containing T1O2 and S 1O2, having the trade name STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemical.
  • the spherical composite particles A contain an inorganic UV-screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the particles of inorganic UV- screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 0.001 and 0.2 m.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size between 0.01 and 0.1 pm.
  • the spherical composite particles A used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 pm, preferably between 0.3 and 20 pm and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 10 pm.
  • Non-spherical screening particles A The organic materials that may be used to form the matrix of the non-spherical screening particles A are chosen from the group formed by polyamides, silicones, polysaccharides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic materials that may be used, mention is preferably made of:
  • the inorganic materials that may be used in the matrix of the non-spherical composite particles A are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, silica, aluminium oxide, boron nitride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays and synthetic clays, and mixtures thereof.
  • these inorganic materials are chosen from:
  • the non-spherical composite particles of the invention are characterized by three dimensions, namely:
  • the smallest is greater than 0.1 pm, preferably greater than 0.3 pm and better still greater than 0.5 pm
  • the largest is less than 30 pm, preferably 20 pm and better still 10 pm.
  • the ratio of the largest to the smallest dimension is greater than 1 .2.
  • the dimensions of the particles A of the invention are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.
  • the non-spherical screening composite particles A that may be used according to the invention will preferably be platelet-shaped.
  • platelet-shaped means parallelepipedal-shaped. They may be smooth, rough or porous.
  • the platelet-shaped composite particles A preferably have a mean thickness of between 0.1 and 10 pm, the mean length is generally between 0.5 and 30 pm and the mean width is between 0.5 and 30 pm. The thickness is the smallest of the dimensions, the width is the medium dimension, and the length is the longest of the dimensions.
  • the composite particles A contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which are included particles of inorganic UV-screening agent.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of less than 0.2 pm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 pm.
  • the composite particles A contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV-screening agent connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV- screening agent is generally about ten nanometres.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV-screening agent is advantageously between 0.001 and 0.2 pm and preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm.
  • the non-spherical composite particles A contain an inorganic UV-screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the particles of inorganic UV- screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 0.001 and 0.2 pm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size between 0.01 and 0.1 pm.
  • the non-spherical composite particles A used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 pm and preferably between 0.5 and 10 pm.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent used in the composite particle A is chosen from metal oxides, in particular from titanium, zinc or iron oxides and more particularly titanium dioxide (T1O2).
  • the matrix of the composite particle A contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen from:
  • the matrix of the composite particle A is formed from a material or a mixture of materials chosen from:
  • composite particles A that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of the following particles:
  • Platelet-shaped composite particles A will preferentially be used.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent constituting these particles B is generally chosen from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides or mixtures thereof and more particularly from titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent is T1O2. These metal oxides may be in the form of particles with a mean size generally of less than 200 nm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 100 nm.
  • metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers with a mean thickness generally of less than 200 nm.
  • the oil of natural origin used for treating the said particles B so as to make them hydrophobic is preferably chosen from jojoba esters, which are generally a complex mixture of esters produced by transesterification/interesterification of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) oil or of esters of hydrogenated jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof.
  • the wax of natural origin used for treating the said particles B so as to make them hydrophobic is preferably a jojoba wax, which is the final product of the controlled hydrogenation of jojoba oil.
  • jojoba esters are known to be resistant to oxidation.
  • Jojoba esters such as the commercial product sold under the name Floraester 70 by the company Floratee will be used more particularly as hydrophobic-treatment agent.
  • the particles B of inorganic UV-screening agent that are hydrophobic-treated with an oil or wax of natural origin are described and synthesized in patent application US 2010/0 136 065.
  • Use will be made more particularly of titanium dioxide particles B treated with alumina and with jojoba esters, of INCI name Titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) jojoba esters, for instance the products sold under the name MPT-154-NJE8 or TTO-NJE8 by the company Kobo.
  • the content of particles B in the composition according to the invention is between 0.1 % and 20%, preferably between 0.5% and 10% and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the screening efficacy obtained with the combination of screening particles A and B as described previously can be improved by additionally using a third category C of screening particles in the form of an oily dispersion of hydrophobic-modified particles C of inorganic UV-screening agent, with a mean size of greater than 100 nm.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent constituting these particles C is generally chosen from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides or mixtures thereof and more particularly from titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent is T1O2.
  • the particles C of inorganic UV-screening agent, in particular of metal oxide preferably have a mean elementary size generally of between 100 nm and 200 nm.
  • the hydrophobic-modified particles C of inorganic UV-screening agent may be coated by undergoing one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminium alkoxides), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
  • silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consist essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly attached via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • sicones also includes the silanes required for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
  • Inorganic screening agents in particular metal oxide particles coated with at least one linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acid and more particularly stearic acid, will preferably be used.
  • hydrophobic-modified particles C of inorganic screening agent in particular of metal oxide, may also be treated with other surface agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oil present in the oily dispersion of particles of inorganic UV-screening agent is preferably chosen from C12-C-1 5 alkyl benzoates and triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the oily dispersions of hydrophobic-modified particles C of inorganic UV-screening agent may also comprise at least one dispersant, for instance polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • the content of oily dispersion of particles C of inorganic UV-screening agent in the composition according to the invention is between 0.1 % and 30%, preferably between 0.5% and 20% and even more preferentially between 1 % and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may contain at least one anhydrous phase comprising at least one polar oil.
  • anhydrous phase means any support comprising less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1 % by weight of water, or even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
  • polar oil means any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5 d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter ⁇ ⁇ characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0.
  • the solubility parameters 5 d and ⁇ ⁇ are defined according to the Hansen classification.
  • these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.
  • Hansen The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space:
  • the polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • the polar oil according to the invention has a surface tension of greater than 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Nouy ring.
  • the weight of the ring is neutralized by a tare.
  • the ring is completely immersed in the liquid to be evaluated, then withdrawn very slowly until the force reaches its maximum. From this maximum force F max , the surface tension is calculated according to the equation:
  • r and R respectively denote the internal and external radii of the ring.
  • the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil.
  • the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil,
  • fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • - C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis; and
  • non-volatile oils of high molecular mass for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
  • esters such as:
  • esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD- DA7 ® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference,
  • the polar oil is chosen from C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.
  • the polar oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the mass content of polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition is between 10% and 100% and preferably between 15% and 90%.
  • the "fatty phase" of the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a wax, an apolar oil or mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the present invention may be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents.
  • a person skilled in the art will select the said active agent(s) as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one organic UV-screening agent.
  • hydrophobic screening agent means:
  • any screening agent that is lipophilic, i.e. which can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase;
  • any screening agent that is insoluble both in a liquid fatty phase and in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • hydrophilic screening agent means any screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Neo Heliopan MA Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.
  • hydrophobic screening agents A are used:
  • Hydrophilic UV-A screening agents Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex,
  • the preferred water-soluble UVA-screening agent is terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid.
  • Salicylic derivatives Homosalate sold in particular under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries;
  • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise;
  • Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name Dipsal by Scher; TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ;
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF;
  • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF.
  • Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V;
  • Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
  • hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the composition of the invention:
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
  • camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex.
  • the preferred hydrophilic UVB screening agent is phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid.
  • Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 1 1 by Norquay
  • Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid;
  • Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives - Drometrizole trisiloxane sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex;
  • the preferred UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents are chosen from:
  • UVA and UVB hvdrophilic screening agents Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, such as
  • the organic screening agents when they are present, are present in contents ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
  • standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers,
  • organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols.
  • These polyols may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel
  • Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers such as poly(Cio-C3o alkyl acrylates) sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
  • moisturizers for instance polyols such as glycerol, butylene glycol or propylene glycol;
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • They may be anhydrous and in particular may be in the form of anhydrous oil, cream or gel.
  • anhydrous composition means any composition comprising less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1 % by weight of water, or even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
  • They may comprise an aqueous phase and a fatty phase and may be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a milk, a cream or a cream gel. They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.
  • a simple or complex emulsion O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the emulsification processes that may be used are of paddle or impeller, rotor- stator and high-pressure homogenizer (HPH) type.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • the emulsions may also contain stabilizers of other types, for instance fillers, or gelling or thickening polymers.
  • emulsifiers examples include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG 100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold
  • APGs alkyl polyglucosides
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self- emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A-92/06778.
  • isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers and in particular phthalate/sulfoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1 ,4- cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
  • hydrophobic- modified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers such as those described in patent application EP 1 069 142.
  • the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention is the HLB according to Griffin, defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
  • Non-limiting examples of surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 5 are especially given in the publication entitled McCutcheon's Emulsifiers & Detergents, 1998 International Edition, MC Publishing Company, in the chapter entitled HLB Index.
  • W/O emulsifying surfactants examples include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • silicone surfactants for instance dim
  • Non-silicone emulsifiers especially alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars, will be preferred.
  • Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.
  • Glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include, for example, polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • W/O emulsifiers use will be made more particularly of polyglycerolated diesters and polyesters especially chosen from:
  • Polycare P 5 from the company Biogenico World Wide; Sunsoft 818H, 818SK, 818TY from the company Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd), - Polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate (Phytoglyn AO from the company Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd),
  • compositions 1 to 2 below were prepared. The ingredients are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Titanium dioxide (and) isohexadecane 12 (and) triethylhexanoin (and) aluminium
  • Titanium dioxide (and) aluminium 6.40 hydroxide (and) stearic acid
  • compositions 1 to 4 were evaluated as regards their screening efficacy. They each contain the same total amount of titanium dioxide: 10% by weight of active material.
  • Emulsion preparation method is a method for determining Emulsion preparation method
  • Ai is heated to 75-80°C (clear solution).
  • all the compounds of Bi are weighed out in another beaker and stirred using a deflocculator until dissolved.
  • B 2 is sprinkled in and stirred until dissolved/gelled.
  • B 3 is added, followed by B 4 .
  • B is introduced slowly (1 to 2 minutes approximately) into A in an emulsifying machine up to 2000 rpm, and then for 6 to 7 minutes at 3000 rpm. The mixture is cooled while stirring with a butterfly spindle.
  • C is added. At a temperature below 30°C, D is added over 5 minutes.
  • the sun protection factor is determined according to the in vitro method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133 (1989). The measurements were taken using a UV-2000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit at a rate of 0.6 mg/cm 2 in vitro PPD index
  • the PPD (persistent pigment darkening) method which measures the skin colour observed 2 to 4 hours after exposing the skin to UV-A, is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) for the UV-A labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21 , 1995 and effective as of January 1 , 1996).
  • JCIA Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association
  • UVAPPD protection factor (UVAp PD PF) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold with the UV-screening agent (MPPDp) to the UV-A radiation dose necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold without UV-screening agent (MPPDnp).
  • compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention containing at least the combination of composite particles A and of T1O2 particles B hydrophobic-modified with a natural oil have a higher SPF and a higher UVA protection index
  • composition 3 comprising only T1O2 particles B hydrophobic-modified with a natural oil
  • composition 4 comprising only T1O2 particles with a mean size ⁇ 0.1 pm.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition contenant, dans un milieu acceptable au plan cosmétique : a) au moins des particules composites A avec une taille moyenne comprise entre 0,1 et 30 pm, comprenant une matrice et un agent inorganique filtrant les UV, ledit agent inorganique filtrant étant présent en une proportion comprise entre 1 % et 70 % en poids rapporté au poids total de la particule composite, b) au moins des particules B d'un agent inorganique filtrant les UV, qui sont traitées au plan de l'hydrophobie avec au moins une huile ou une cire d'origine naturelle ; c) et éventuellement une dispersion huileuse de particules hydrophobes C d'agent inorganique filtrant les UV avec une taille moyenne de particule supérieure à 100 nm ; lesdites particules C étant différentes des particules B.
PCT/EP2012/051422 2011-02-18 2012-01-30 Composition contenant des composites filtrants et des particules d'agents filtrants inorganiques, qui sont modifiés au plan de l'hydrophobie avec une huile ou une cire d'origine naturelle WO2012110302A2 (fr)

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EP2921157A1 (fr) * 2014-03-18 2015-09-23 Symrise AG Dioxyde de titane pelliculé pour la reduction d'effet de décoloration sur la peau
WO2016032852A1 (fr) * 2014-08-25 2016-03-03 Pro Transit Nanotherapy Llc Compositions et méthodes pour le traitement du photovieillissement et d'autres troubles cutanés
WO2018015094A1 (fr) * 2016-07-22 2018-01-25 Beiersdorf Ag Composition cosmétique contenant des flocons hydrophobes
FR3117016A1 (fr) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-10 ABC Texture Composition cosmétique de protection solaire sous forme d’émulsion solide.
WO2022125358A1 (fr) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-16 Dow Global Technologies Llc Composition de rinçage pour soins personnels avec des particules d'agent opacifiant composite

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WO2023100140A1 (fr) * 2021-12-02 2023-06-08 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Composition cosmétique en émulsion e/h

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EP2921157A1 (fr) * 2014-03-18 2015-09-23 Symrise AG Dioxyde de titane pelliculé pour la reduction d'effet de décoloration sur la peau
WO2015139782A1 (fr) * 2014-03-18 2015-09-24 Symrise Ag Dioxyde de titane enrobé pour réduire l'effet de blanchiment sur la peau
US20150265510A1 (en) * 2014-03-18 2015-09-24 Symrise Ag Coated titanium dioxide to reduce the whitening effect on skin
US9517190B2 (en) 2014-03-18 2016-12-13 Symrise Ag Coated titanium dioxide to reduce the whitening effect on skin
WO2016032852A1 (fr) * 2014-08-25 2016-03-03 Pro Transit Nanotherapy Llc Compositions et méthodes pour le traitement du photovieillissement et d'autres troubles cutanés
WO2018015094A1 (fr) * 2016-07-22 2018-01-25 Beiersdorf Ag Composition cosmétique contenant des flocons hydrophobes
FR3117016A1 (fr) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-10 ABC Texture Composition cosmétique de protection solaire sous forme d’émulsion solide.
WO2022125358A1 (fr) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-16 Dow Global Technologies Llc Composition de rinçage pour soins personnels avec des particules d'agent opacifiant composite

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