WO2012059406A1 - Colouring mousse composition comprising a polyethylene glycol - Google Patents
Colouring mousse composition comprising a polyethylene glycol Download PDFInfo
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- WO2012059406A1 WO2012059406A1 PCT/EP2011/068926 EP2011068926W WO2012059406A1 WO 2012059406 A1 WO2012059406 A1 WO 2012059406A1 EP 2011068926 W EP2011068926 W EP 2011068926W WO 2012059406 A1 WO2012059406 A1 WO 2012059406A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for colouring hair, in mousse form, from a composition comprising oxidation dye precursors, and also to a composition in mousse form.
- the techniques of colouring human keratin fibres, such as the hair, include oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. More particularly, this colouring method uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
- oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to coloured species.
- the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being chosen especially from aromatic mefa-diamines, mefa-aminophenols, mefa-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
- Permanent dyeing methods therefore involve using together with the dyeing composition an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, in the alkaline pH state in the great majority of cases.
- the alkaline agent conventionally used is aqueous ammonia or other alkaline agents, such as alkanolamines.
- Colouring compositions may take various forms, such as lotions, gels, emulsions, creams or mousses.
- Colouring mousses are pleasant to use, but often have poor persistence. For example, rapid disappearance of the mousse may be observed following application, or an uneven application along the fibres.
- compositions for colouring human keratin fibres such as the hair, in mousse form, comprising at least one polyethylene glycol of formula
- n varies from 150 to 1000, at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
- the invention also relates to a method for colouring human keratin fibres using this composition.
- the invention likewise provides a multiple-compartment device comprising in one of the said compartments a first composition comprising one or more surfactants, one or more oxidation dye precursors and one or more alkaline agents and in a second compartment comprising a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and in a third compartment a container equipped with an element allowing the composition of the invention, obtained from the mixing of the two above compositions, to be delivered in the form of a mousse, at least one of the first and second compositions comprising one or more polyethylene glycols.
- the invention further provides a device for colouring keratin fibres, comprising the composition of the invention in liquid form and a mousse distributor for delivering the composition in the form of a mousse.
- the composition of the invention is in the form of a mousse which is particularly pleasant to apply. It has a light and airy texture, thereby making it particularly pleasant to use.
- the qualities of the mousse are sufficiently persistent to allow the colouring product to be applied evenly and without running.
- the composition of the invention makes it possible to retain dyeing properties such as the strength of the colour, resistance to external agents (shampoos, perspiration, light) and selectivity, which are particularly effective.
- the human keratin fibres treated by the method according to the invention are preferably the hair.
- composition of the invention comprises one or more polyethylene glycols of the formulae defined above.
- n varies from 150 to 800, more preferably from 150 to 500.
- Examples include the polyethylene glycol with 180 units of ethylene oxide that is known under the name Carbowax sentry polyethylene glycol 8000 NF FCC Flake, PEG-150 or Polyglykol 6000, PEG-220 or Polyglykol 10000.
- the polyethylene glycol is present in an amount of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 % and 10%, more particularly from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises one or more than one alkaline agent. This agent may be chosen from mineral or organic or hybrid alkaline agents, or mixtures thereof.
- the mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
- the organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
- Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the aforementioned amines with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid.
- organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (I) below:
- Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
- alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C C 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
- alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or non-identical C C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
- amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions.
- the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
- amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
- the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
- Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (II) below:
- i e notes a group chosen from: -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2
- the compounds corresponding to formula (II) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
- amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and baleine.
- the organic amine is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
- amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 , 1-dimethylguanidine, 1 , 1- diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulphonic acid. Mention may be made in particular of the use of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
- composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and/or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. More preferentially still, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
- the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent.
- the alkanolamine is preferably monoethanolamine.
- the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent, preferably monoethanolamine, and aqueous ammonia.
- the alkanolamine or alkanolamines are present in a majority amount relative to the aqueous ammonia.
- composition according to the invention advantageously has a content of alkaline agent(s) of from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the said composition.
- composition according to the invention also comprises one or more oxidizing agents.
- the oxidizing agents are for example chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulphates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates.
- the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
- the amount of oxidizing agent(s) represents more particularly from 0.1 % to
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dye precursors.
- Oxidation dye precursors which that may be used include oxidation bases and couplers.
- the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylene- diamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and addition salts thereof.
- the para-phenylenediamines include, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis-( -hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis-( -hydroxyethyl)amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N,N- bis-( -hydroxyethyl
- para-phenylenediamine para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
- the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis- ( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy
- para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
- ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
- heterocyclic bases for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
- the pyridine derivatives include the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxy- phenyl)amino 3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine and the addition salts thereof.
- Examples include pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl- pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid;
- pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine,
- pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-
- a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more preferentially 4,5- diamino-1- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof.
- Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydro- pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo- [1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1
- Heterocyclic bases to be used will include preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(P- hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one and/or a salt thereof.
- the couplers which can be used in the composition of the invention include in particular meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and addition salts thereof.
- Examples include 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4- chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino 4- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1 ,3-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis-(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, ⁇ -naphthol, 2-methyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2
- the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulphonates, phosphates and acetates.
- the oxidation base or bases are generally present each in an amount of between 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the coupler or couplers each represent in general from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may contain cationic or nonionic, natural or synthetic direct dyes.
- Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes include nitro dyes of the benzene series; direct azo, azomethine and methine dyes; azacarbocyanins such as tetra- azacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); direct quinone dyes, and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine and indigoid dyes; phthalocyanines, porphyrins, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
- azacarbocyanins such as tetra- azacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines)
- direct quinone dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes
- direct dyes from among: azo; methine; carbonyl; azine; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri(hetero)arylmethane; porphyrin; phthalocyanine and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
- the direct dye or dyes represent more particularly from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight.
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.
- the surfactant or surfactants may be cationic, amphoteric, nonionic and/or anionic surfactants.
- the surfactants useful in the composition of the invention are surfactants which are known per se within the field of the colouring of keratin fibres.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or surfactants which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines which are optionally quaternized and in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
- Ra represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
- Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
- Rb representes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
- X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
- Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH- S0 3 Z',
- Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
- Ra' represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
- betaines comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty chain, and more particularly the compounds of formula (A):
- A1 and A2 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical,
- R1 denoting a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical
- R2 and R3 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
- R2 and R3 denote a methyl radical.
- amphoteric betaine surfactant or surfactants used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may in particular be (C8-20)alkylbetaines, (C8-20)alkylsulphobetaines, (C8-20)alkylamido(C2-8)alkyl- betaines or (C8-20)alkylamido(C6-8)alkylsulphobetaines.
- amphoteric surfactants preference is given to using (C8-20)alkylbetaines, (C8-20)alkylamido(C2-8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
- amphoteric betaine surfactants are chosen from cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
- anionic surfactant is a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , OS0 3 H, OS0 3 " , H 2 P0 3 , HP0 3 " ,P0 3 2” , H 2 P0 2 , HP0 2 , HP0 2 " , P0 2 " , POH, PO " .
- anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyl lacty
- These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
- the salts of C6-24 alkyi monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-citrates, C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates
- anionic surfactant or surfactants when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
- amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
- anionic surfactants preference is given to using, according to the invention, the alkyi sulphate salts and alkyi ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.
- cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
- the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
- the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention include, for example, stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
- quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
- the groups R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
- the aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-30 alkyl groups, C1-30 alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6) groups, C1-30 alkylamide groups, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
- X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkyl-aryl-sulphonates.
- tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltnmethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially to behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or else, on the other hand, to the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamido- propyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;
- R 12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids
- R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
- R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
- X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups contain preferably, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
- R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
- a product of this kind is for example sold under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
- R 17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri 6 a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH 2 )3, Rie a , Ri7a, Risa, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R 2 i , which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.
- Compounds of this kind are for example Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VII) below:
- R 22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyi or di hydroxyalkyi groups;
- R 2 3 is chosen from:
- R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups
- R 2 5 is chosen from:
- R 29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups
- R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;
- r, s and t which are identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6;
- r1 and t1 which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
- x and z which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10;
- X " is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion
- the alkyl groups F1 ⁇ 2 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
- R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or di hydroxy propyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
- the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
- R 2 3 is a hydrocarbon group R 27 , it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 2 5 is a hydrocarbon group R 2 g, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R24, R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
- x and z which are identical or different, are 0 or 1.
- y is 1.
- r, s and t which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and more particularly are 2.
- the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ester-functional ammonium.
- the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
- R22 denotes a methyl ethyl group
- x and y are 1 ;
- z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
- r, s and t are equal to 2;
- R 2 3 is chosen from:
- R25 is chosen from: 0
- R 2 4, F1 ⁇ 2 and R 2 s which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
- the hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.
- acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
- These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
- This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
- composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts.
- ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
- the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
- the nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
- the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
- oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
- the surfactants have a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and more preferably between 2 and 30.
- the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and from polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acids comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
- the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
- R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical
- m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
- lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether
- lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol
- oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether
- cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol
- oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol octadecanol containing 6
- the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
- the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 /Ci 0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
- Nonionic surfactants also include non-oxyethylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, optionally oxyalkenylated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine derivatives and N-acyl- methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
- the surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from amphoteric, nonionic and anionic surfactants.
- surfactant or surfactants are chosen from amphoteric and anionic surfactants.
- the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from amphoteric surfactants.
- the composition of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants.
- the nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated plant oils that are saturated or unsaturated.
- the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulphates or alkyl ether sulphates.
- the total amount of surfactants in the composition of the invention is generally between 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20%, more preferably from
- compositions may further comprise various adjuvants which are commonly used in compositions for colouring or lightening the hair, such as anionic, cationic and nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-formers; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifiers.
- adjuvants which are commonly used in compositions for colouring or lightening the hair, such as anionic, cationic and nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-formers; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifiers.
- the above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of between
- composition according to the invention preferentially comprises one or more cationic polymers.
- composition according to the invention may comprise water and/or one or more organic solvents.
- Organic solvents include, for example, linear or branched, preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentylglycol and 3-methyl-1 ,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols having more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers such as, for example, the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C C 4 ethers, such as, for example, the mono
- the organic solvents when they are present, generally represent between 1 % and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, and preferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
- the composition is preferably aqueous. In that case it preferably comprises from 30% to 95% of water by weight, more preferably from 40% to 90% of water by weight, more preferably still from 50% to 85% of water by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the pH of the composition according to the invention if it is aqueous, is generally between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11 , more preferably between 7 and 11 - limits included.
- the pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalifying agents which are commonly used in dyeing keratin fibres, and more particularly the alkaline agents of the invention that were mentioned above.
- composition according to the invention is present, on application to the keratin fibres, in the form of a mousse.
- composition in mousse form according to the invention is formed from a mixture of air or an inert gas with the above-described composition.
- the composition according to the invention is present in the form of a temporary mousse produced just before use.
- the composition may be packaged in a mousse distributor. This may involve either aerosol products distributed from a pressurized container by means of a propellant gas, thus forming a mousse at the time of their distribution, or compositions distributed from a container by means of a mechanical pump which is connected to a distribution head, the passage of the composition through the distribution head converting it to a mousse no later than at the outlet orifice of such a head.
- the distributor may be an aerosol comprising a propellant gas as well as the base composition, which is generally divided into two portions, one with the oxidizing agent or agents and the other with the dye precursor or precursors.
- the two portions are generally stored each separately in a pressurized container. Accordingly, the propellant gases selected in each of the containers may be adapted to the portion contained.
- the propellant gas which may be used may be chosen from carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrogen oxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane, pentane, and mixtures thereof.
- the distribution head is such that it is the composition according to the invention which is atomized in mousse form, in other words the mixture of the composition with the oxidizing agent or agents and the composition with the oxidation dye precursor or precursors.
- the composition may be located within a mousse distributor of the pump flask type.
- These distributors comprise a distribution head for delivering the composition, a pump and a descender tube for transferring the composition from the container to the head to deliver the product.
- the mousse is formed by forcing the composition through a material comprising a porous substance such as a sintered material, a metal or plastic filtering grid, or similar structures.
- the oxidizing agent or agents are packaged in a first container equipped with a stopper, and the oxidation dye precursor or precursors are packaged in a second container, separate from the first, which is likewise closed with a closing member.
- the closing member may be a pump distribution mechanism.
- the composition according to the invention is then formed by mixing, before use, a composition comprising the oxidizing agent or agents and a composition comprising the oxidation dye precursor or precursors.
- one of the first and second containers defines an internal volume which is sufficient to accommodate the entirety of the two compositions.
- the mixture of the compositions may be homogenized by reclosing this container and shaking the container.
- the container is advantageously closed directly with the distribution head.
- This distribution head contains a mechanical pump held in a band intended for mounting by snap-fastening or screwing on the neck of the container holding the mixture.
- the pump comprises a pump body connected to a descender tube, to allow the entirety of the mixture to be distributed.
- the pump likewise comprises a push button for actuating the pump body, such that, on each actuation, one dose of composition is drawn up inside in the descender tube and ejected in mousse form at the distribution orifice of the head.
- the containers are preferably made of a thermoplastic material and are produced by extrusion blow moulding or injection blow moulding techniques. More particularly, the container intended for packaging the composition comprising the oxidation dye precursor or precursors is produced from a material including a non-zero proportion of EVOH.
- the pump is, for example, the standard "F2 - L9" model available from the company Rexam.
- the invention provides a non- aerosol device containing the composition of the invention.
- the colouring method according to the invention involves applying the composition according to the invention to wet or dry human keratin fibres for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloration.
- the composition applied to the keratin fibres is in mousse form.
- the colouring method is generally implemented at ambient temperature (between 15 to 25°C) and at temperatures which may be up to 60°C to 80°C.
- the keratin fibres are rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo, followed by a water rinse.
- compositions are prepared (the amounts are expressed in g% of active substances)
- compositions E1 and E2 above are obtained by mixing, before use, two compositions: A1 and B for composition E1 , and A2 and B for composition E2:
- Oxidation dye precursors base(s) and qs shade qs shade coupler(s)
- Aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH 3 ) 1.5
- the mixture is introduced in an amount of 65 g (26 g of composition A + 39 g of composition B) into a pump flask (L9 Rexam) equipped with a descender tube.
- the device allows a mousse to be obtained which is sufficiently compact to be applied to natural or permed grey hair containing 90% white hairs, and to not undergo immediate separation. The comfort on application is very good.
- the locks of hair are rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried to give the desired coloration. This coloration is powerful, with little selectivity.
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Abstract
The present invention provides a composition for colouring human keratin fibres such as the hair, in mousse form, comprising at least one polyethylene glycol chosen from the compounds of formula H-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH in which n varies from 150 to 1000, at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The invention also relates to a method for treating human keratin fibres using this composition in mousse form, and to aerosol or non-aerosol devices that allow this mousse to be generated.
Description
COLOURING MOUSSE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A
POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL
The present invention relates to a method for colouring hair, in mousse form, from a composition comprising oxidation dye precursors, and also to a composition in mousse form.
The techniques of colouring human keratin fibres, such as the hair, include oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. More particularly, this colouring method uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to coloured species.
The shades obtained with these oxidation bases are often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being chosen especially from aromatic mefa-diamines, mefa-aminophenols, mefa-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
Permanent dyeing methods therefore involve using together with the dyeing composition an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, in the alkaline pH state in the great majority of cases. The alkaline agent conventionally used is aqueous ammonia or other alkaline agents, such as alkanolamines.
Colouring compositions may take various forms, such as lotions, gels, emulsions, creams or mousses. Colouring mousses are pleasant to use, but often have poor persistence. For example, rapid disappearance of the mousse may be observed following application, or an uneven application along the fibres.
There is a genuine and ongoing need to develop oxidation colouring compositions in mousse form that are easy to prepare and apply and that remain sufficiently stable over time while retaining effective dyeing properties.
This aim and others are achieved by the present invention, which provides a composition for colouring human keratin fibres such as the hair, in mousse form, comprising at least one polyethylene glycol of formula
H-(0-CH2-CH2)n-OH
in which n varies from 150 to 1000, at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
The invention also relates to a method for colouring human keratin fibres using this composition.
The invention likewise provides a multiple-compartment device comprising in one of the said compartments a first composition comprising one or more surfactants, one or more oxidation dye precursors and one or more alkaline agents and in a second compartment comprising a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and in a third compartment a container equipped with an element allowing the composition of the invention, obtained from the mixing of the two above compositions, to be delivered in the form of a mousse, at least one of the first and second compositions comprising one or more polyethylene glycols.
The invention further provides a device for colouring keratin fibres, comprising the composition of the invention in liquid form and a mousse distributor for delivering the composition in the form of a mousse.
The composition of the invention is in the form of a mousse which is particularly pleasant to apply. It has a light and airy texture, thereby making it particularly pleasant to use. The qualities of the mousse are sufficiently persistent to allow the colouring product to be applied evenly and without running. The composition of the invention makes it possible to retain dyeing properties such as the strength of the colour, resistance to external agents (shampoos, perspiration, light) and selectivity, which are particularly effective.
Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the reading of the description and examples which follow.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range. The term "at least one" in combination with an ingredient of the composition signifies "one or more".
The human keratin fibres treated by the method according to the invention are preferably the hair.
The composition of the invention comprises one or more polyethylene glycols of the formulae defined above. Preferably, n varies from 150 to 800, more preferably from 150 to 500.
Examples include the polyethylene glycol with 180 units of ethylene oxide that is known under the name Carbowax sentry polyethylene glycol 8000 NF FCC Flake, PEG-150 or Polyglykol 6000, PEG-220 or Polyglykol 10000.
In the composition of the invention, the polyethylene glycol is present in an amount of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 % and 10%, more particularly from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The composition comprises one or more than one alkaline agent. This agent may be chosen from mineral or organic or hybrid alkaline agents, or mixtures thereof.
The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the aforementioned amines with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid.
The organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (I) below:
Rx Rz
W N
Ry X R. (I) in which W is a C C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, and Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C C6 alkyl, C C6 hydroxyalkyl or C C6 aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Particularly suitable for implementing the invention are alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or non-identical C C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.
More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen
more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (II) below:
NH,
/ 2
R— CH2— Chk
-(CH2)2NH2 -(CH2)2NHCONH2
-(CH2)2NH C— NH2
NH
The compounds corresponding to formula (II) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and baleine.
The organic amine is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 , 1-dimethylguanidine, 1 , 1- diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulphonic acid.
Mention may be made in particular of the use of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
The composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and/or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. More preferentially still, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent.
The alkanolamine is preferably monoethanolamine.
In one variant of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent, preferably monoethanolamine, and aqueous ammonia. In this variant, the alkanolamine or alkanolamines are present in a majority amount relative to the aqueous ammonia.
The composition according to the invention advantageously has a content of alkaline agent(s) of from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the said composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more oxidizing agents.
The oxidizing agents are for example chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulphates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates. Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
The amount of oxidizing agent(s) represents more particularly from 0.1 % to
20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
As indicated earlier, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dye precursors.
Oxidation dye precursors which that may be used include oxidation bases and couplers.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylene- diamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and addition salts thereof.
The para-phenylenediamines include, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, Ν,Ν-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis-( -hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis-( -hydroxyethyl)amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N,N- bis-( -hydroxyethyl)amino 2-chloroaniline, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-( -hydroxy- propyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-^-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-( ,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-amino- phenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxy- ethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-( -methoxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, 3-hydroxy-1-(4'- aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis- ( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
The pyridine derivatives include the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxy- phenyl)amino 3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine and the addition salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the
3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples include pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl- pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid;
2- methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-7- yl)methanol; 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)ethanol; 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-7-yl)ethanol; (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)methanol; 3,6-diamino- pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine; 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine; pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine- 3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-[(3-amino- pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol; 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol; 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-ol; 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-4-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino- pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-7-ol; and the addition salts thereof.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine,
4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-
3- methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3- dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- te/f-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-te/f-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( -hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl- pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-
amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)arTiino-1 ,3-climethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl- 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4- ( -hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1-^- methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more preferentially 4,5- diamino-1-^-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof.
Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydro- pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo- [1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-dimethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5- diamino-1 ,2-diethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo- [1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1 H,6H-pyridazino[1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 4-amino-1 ,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3- dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1 ,2-diethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6- hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one. Preference is given to using 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof.
Heterocyclic bases to be used will include preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(P- hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one and/or a salt thereof.
The couplers which can be used in the composition of the invention include in particular meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and addition salts thereof.
Examples include 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4- chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino 4- ^-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1 ,3-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis-(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, Γ -naphthol, 2-methyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-^-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethyl- amino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methyl- pyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1 ,5-b]-1 ,2,4-
triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1 ,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]benzimidazole, addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures thereof.
The addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulphonates, phosphates and acetates.
The oxidation base or bases are generally present each in an amount of between 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The coupler or couplers each represent in general from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may contain cationic or nonionic, natural or synthetic direct dyes.
Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes include nitro dyes of the benzene series; direct azo, azomethine and methine dyes; azacarbocyanins such as tetra- azacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); direct quinone dyes, and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine and indigoid dyes; phthalocyanines, porphyrins, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures. In particular, mention may be made of direct dyes from among: azo; methine; carbonyl; azine; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri(hetero)arylmethane; porphyrin; phthalocyanine and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
When present, the direct dye or dyes represent more particularly from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight.
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants. The surfactant or surfactants may be cationic, amphoteric, nonionic and/or anionic surfactants. The surfactants useful in the composition of the invention are surfactants which are known per se within the field of the colouring of keratin fibres.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or surfactants which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines which are optionally quaternized and in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl(C3-C8)alkylbetaines,
or (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulphobetaines. Among the derivatives of optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (III) and (III') below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2- N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (III) in which:
Ra represents a Ci0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb representes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (III') in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
B' represents -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2,
X' represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-S03H or -CH2-CHOH- S03Z',
Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
Ra' represents a Ci0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci7 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use betaines comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty chain, and more particularly the compounds of formula (A):
R1-(CONH)x-A1- N+(R2)(R3)-A2-Z (A)
with
x denoting 0 or 1 ,
A1 and A2 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical,
R1 denoting a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
R2 and R3 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
Z denoting a C02 " group or an S03 " group.
Preferably, R2 and R3 denote a methyl radical.
The amphoteric betaine surfactant or surfactants used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may in particular be (C8-20)alkylbetaines, (C8-20)alkylsulphobetaines, (C8-20)alkylamido(C2-8)alkyl- betaines or (C8-20)alkylamido(C6-8)alkylsulphobetaines.
Among the aforementioned amphoteric surfactants, preference is given to using (C8-20)alkylbetaines, (C8-20)alkylamido(C2-8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the amphoteric betaine surfactants are chosen from cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
An "anionic surfactant" is a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: C02H, C02 ", S03H, S03 ", OS03H, OS03 ", H2P03, HP03 " ,P03 2", H2P02, HP02, HP02 ", P02 ", POH, PO".
As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether
carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyi and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-24 alkyi monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-citrates, C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-24 alkyi polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates
When the anionic surfactant or surfactants are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Among the anionic surfactants, preference is given to using, according to the invention, the alkyi sulphate salts and alkyi ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. The fatty amines which can be used according to the invention include, for example, stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:
- those corresponding to the general formula (IV) below:
in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-30 alkyl groups, C1-30 alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6) groups, C1-30 alkylamide groups, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkyl-aryl-sulphonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltnmethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially to behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or else, on the other hand, to the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamido- propyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;
(V)
in which R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups contain preferably, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is for example sold under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
ternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VI):
in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Riea, Ri7a, Risa, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R2i , which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X" is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Compounds of this kind are for example Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VII) below:
(VII)
in which:
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyi or di hydroxyalkyi groups;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group ' 26
- groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
O
R„
- the group ' 28
- groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;
r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6;
r1 and t1 , which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
and r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t y is an integer from 1 to 10;
x and z, which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10;
X" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups F½ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or di hydroxy propyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R2g, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably x and z, which are identical or different, are 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and more particularly are 2.
The anion X" is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ester-functional ammonium.
The anion X" is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which:
R22 denotes a methyl ethyl group,
x and y are 1 ;
z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom;
R25 is chosen from:
0
- the group 28
- a hydrogen atom;
R24, F½ and R2s, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
The hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.
Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (VI) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethyl- ammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
It is possible to use the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride available from KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
• oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,
• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides, · esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols,
• polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8- C30 acids and of sorbitol,
• saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils,
· condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures;
The surfactants have a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and more preferably between 2 and 30.
In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and from polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acids comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H
in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8/Ci0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Nonionic surfactants also include non-oxyethylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, optionally oxyalkenylated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine derivatives and N-acyl- methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
The surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from amphoteric, nonionic and anionic surfactants.
More preferably the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from amphoteric and anionic surfactants.
More preferably still, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from amphoteric surfactants.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants. In this embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated plant oils that are saturated or unsaturated. The anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulphates or alkyl ether sulphates.
The total amount of surfactants in the composition of the invention is generally between 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20%, more preferably from
1 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition may further comprise various adjuvants which are commonly used in compositions for colouring or lightening the hair, such as anionic, cationic and nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-formers; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifiers.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of between
0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferentially comprises one or more cationic polymers.
The composition according to the invention may comprise water and/or one or more organic solvents.
Organic solvents include, for example, linear or branched, preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentylglycol and 3-methyl-1 ,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols having more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers such as, for example, the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C C4 ethers, such as, for example, the monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, alone or as a mixture.
The organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1 % and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, and preferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.
The composition is preferably aqueous. In that case it preferably comprises from 30% to 95% of water by weight, more preferably from 40% to 90% of water by weight, more preferably still from 50% to 85% of water by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition according to the invention, if it is aqueous, is generally between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11 , more preferably between 7 and 11 - limits included.
The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalifying agents which are commonly used in dyeing keratin fibres, and more particularly the alkaline agents of the invention that were mentioned above.
The composition according to the invention is present, on application to the keratin fibres, in the form of a mousse.
The composition in mousse form according to the invention is formed from a mixture of air or an inert gas with the above-described composition.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is present in the form of a temporary mousse produced just before use.
According to this embodiment, the composition may be packaged in a mousse distributor. This may involve either aerosol products distributed from a pressurized container by means of a propellant gas, thus forming a mousse at the time of their distribution, or compositions distributed from a container by means of a mechanical pump which is connected to a distribution head, the passage of the composition through the distribution head converting it to a mousse no later than at the outlet orifice of such a head.
According to a first variant, the distributor may be an aerosol comprising a propellant gas as well as the base composition, which is generally divided into two portions, one with the oxidizing agent or agents and the other with the dye precursor or precursors. In such a configuration, the two portions are generally stored each separately in a pressurized container. Accordingly, the propellant gases selected in each of the containers may be adapted to the portion contained.
The propellant gas which may be used may be chosen from carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrogen oxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane, pentane, and mixtures thereof.
In practice, for this variant, use will be made either of an aerosol package with a single container internally accommodating two compartments, or of a double aerosol hence containing two containers. In both cases, the distribution head is such that it is the composition according to the invention which is atomized in mousse form, in other words the mixture of the composition with the oxidizing agent or agents and the composition with the oxidation dye precursor or precursors.
According to another embodiment, the composition may be located within a mousse distributor of the pump flask type. These distributors comprise a distribution head for delivering the composition, a pump and a descender tube for transferring the composition from the container to the head to deliver the product. The mousse is formed by forcing the composition through a material comprising a porous substance such as a sintered material, a metal or plastic filtering grid, or similar structures.
Distributors of this kind are well known to the skilled person and are described in the following patents: U.S. Pat No. 3,709,437 (Wright), U.S. Pat. No. 3,937,364 (Wright), U.S. Pat No. 4,022,351 (Wright), U.S. Pat No. 4,1 147,306 (Bennett), U.S. Pat No. 4,184,615 (Wright), U.S. Pat No. 4,598,862 (Rice), U.S. Pat No. 4,615,467 (Grogan et al.), and U.S. Pat No. 5,364,031 (Tamiguchi et al.).
In practice for this variant, the oxidizing agent or agents are packaged in a first container equipped with a stopper, and the oxidation dye precursor or precursors
are packaged in a second container, separate from the first, which is likewise closed with a closing member. The closing member may be a pump distribution mechanism. The composition according to the invention is then formed by mixing, before use, a composition comprising the oxidizing agent or agents and a composition comprising the oxidation dye precursor or precursors. For this purpose, in order to limit the number of containers supplied, one of the first and second containers defines an internal volume which is sufficient to accommodate the entirety of the two compositions. The mixture of the compositions may be homogenized by reclosing this container and shaking the container. The container is advantageously closed directly with the distribution head. This distribution head contains a mechanical pump held in a band intended for mounting by snap-fastening or screwing on the neck of the container holding the mixture. The pump comprises a pump body connected to a descender tube, to allow the entirety of the mixture to be distributed. The pump likewise comprises a push button for actuating the pump body, such that, on each actuation, one dose of composition is drawn up inside in the descender tube and ejected in mousse form at the distribution orifice of the head.
In this example, the containers are preferably made of a thermoplastic material and are produced by extrusion blow moulding or injection blow moulding techniques. More particularly, the container intended for packaging the composition comprising the oxidation dye precursor or precursors is produced from a material including a non-zero proportion of EVOH. The pump is, for example, the standard "F2 - L9" model available from the company Rexam.
According to this preferred embodiment, the invention provides a non- aerosol device containing the composition of the invention.
The colouring method according to the invention involves applying the composition according to the invention to wet or dry human keratin fibres for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloration. According to the invention, the composition applied to the keratin fibres is in mousse form. The colouring method is generally implemented at ambient temperature (between 15 to 25°C) and at temperatures which may be up to 60°C to 80°C.
After a contact time of a minute to an hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes, the keratin fibres are rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo, followed by a water rinse.
The examples below serve to illustrate the invention, though without having any limitative character.
EXAMPLES
The following compositions are prepared (the amounts are expressed in g% of active substances)
Compositions E1 and E2 above are obtained by mixing, before use, two compositions: A1 and B for composition E1 , and A2 and B for composition E2:
Composition Composition A1 A2
Oxidation dye precursors (base(s) and qs shade qs shade coupler(s))
Cocobetaine 2.5 2.5
Polyethylene glycol with 180 mol of ethylene 2 2
oxide
Aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH3) 1.5
Monoethanolamine 5 5
Sorbitol 10 10
Polyquaternium-6 1.25 1.25
Hydrogenated, oxyethylenated (40) castor oil 1 1
Erythorbic acid 0.5 0.5
Sodium metabisulphite 0.5 0.5
EDTA 0.2 0.2
Water qs 100 qs 100
Composition B % by weight
Sodium laureth sulphate 1.666
Polyquaternium-39 0.083
Hydrogen peroxide 7.5
Glycerol 5
Cetearyl alcohol 0.333
Sodium salicylate 0.035
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04
Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06
Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2
Water qs 100
The mixture is introduced in an amount of 65 g (26 g of composition A + 39 g of composition B) into a pump flask (L9 Rexam) equipped with a descender tube. By pumping, the device allows a mousse to be obtained which is sufficiently compact to be applied to natural or permed grey hair containing 90% white hairs, and to not undergo immediate separation. The comfort on application is very good. After 30 minutes of contact, the locks of hair are rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried to give the desired coloration. This coloration is powerful, with little selectivity.
Claims
1. Colouring composition in mousse form, comprising at least one polyethylene glycol chosen from the compounds of formula
H-(0-CH2-CH2)n-OH
in which n varies from 150 to 1000, at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
2. Composition according to Claim 1 , in which the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from cationic, amphoteric, nonionic and anionic surfactants, preferably from amphoteric, nonionic and anionic surfactants and more preferably from amphoteric and anionic surfactants, and more preferably still from amphoteric surfactants.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkyl- (CrC6)amidoalkylbetaines or (C8-C2o)alkyl(CrC6)amidoalkylsulphobetaines, preferably (C8-C2o)alkyl(CrC6)amidoalkylbetaines.
4. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants.
5. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4, in which the surfactant or surfactants are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20%, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of composition.
6. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and amino acids.
7. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agent is chosen from alkanolamines and more particularly is monoethanolamine.
8. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agent or agents represent an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the said composition.
9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in which the polyethylene glycol is such that n varies from 150 to 500.
10. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in which the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
11. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxidition bases and one or more couplers.
12. Aerosol device comprising a means of generating in mousse form a composition as defined in any of Claims 1 to 1 1.
13. Aerosol device according to Claim 12, comprising a single container equipped with 2 compartments, or comprising two containers.
14. Non-aerosol device comprising a flask equipped with a mechanical pumping system, and comprising a composition as defined in any of Claims 1 to 1 1 and a distribution system allowing the said composition to be delivered in mousse form.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1059009 | 2010-11-02 | ||
FR1059009A FR2966721B1 (en) | 2010-11-02 | 2010-11-02 | FOAM COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL |
US41246710P | 2010-11-11 | 2010-11-11 | |
US61/412,467 | 2010-11-11 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2012059406A1 true WO2012059406A1 (en) | 2012-05-10 |
Family
ID=44140890
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/EP2011/068926 WO2012059406A1 (en) | 2010-11-02 | 2011-10-28 | Colouring mousse composition comprising a polyethylene glycol |
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FR (1) | FR2966721B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2012059406A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20170360670A1 (en) * | 2014-12-29 | 2017-12-21 | Kao Germany Gmbh | Aqueous oxidizing composition |
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20170360670A1 (en) * | 2014-12-29 | 2017-12-21 | Kao Germany Gmbh | Aqueous oxidizing composition |
US10813869B2 (en) * | 2014-12-29 | 2020-10-27 | Kao Germany Gmbh | Aqueous oxidizing composition |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2966721B1 (en) | 2013-04-26 |
FR2966721A1 (en) | 2012-05-04 |
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