WO2012059405A1 - Composition de teinture sous forme de mousse comprenant un polymère associatif - Google Patents

Composition de teinture sous forme de mousse comprenant un polymère associatif Download PDF

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WO2012059405A1
WO2012059405A1 PCT/EP2011/068925 EP2011068925W WO2012059405A1 WO 2012059405 A1 WO2012059405 A1 WO 2012059405A1 EP 2011068925 W EP2011068925 W EP 2011068925W WO 2012059405 A1 WO2012059405 A1 WO 2012059405A1
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composition
composition according
chosen
alkyl
weight
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PCT/EP2011/068925
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Caroline Goget
Richard Sabourin
Jean-Marc Ascione
Delphine Allard
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for dyeing the hair, in mousse form, using a composition comprising oxidation dye precursors, and to a composition in mousse form.
  • oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. More particularly, this dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
  • oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to coloured species.
  • the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
  • Permanent dyeing processes thus consist in using with the dye composition an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
  • the alkaline agent conventionally used is aqueous ammonia or other alkaline agents, such as alkanolamines.
  • Dye compositions may be in various forms, such as lotions, gels, emulsions, creams or mousses.
  • Colouring mousses are pleasant to use, but they often have poor fastness over time. Rapid disappearance of the mousse after application or nonuniform application along the fibres may be observed, for example.
  • composition for dyeing human keratin fibers such as the hair, in mousse form comprising:
  • the invention also relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibres using this composition.
  • a subject of the invention is a multi-compartment device comprising, in a first compartment, a composition containing one or more surfactant(s), one or more oxidation dye precursor(s), one or more alkaline agent(s), in a second, a composition containing one or more oxidizing agents, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more associative polymer(s), and in a third, a container equipped with a member for delivering in mousse form the composition according to the invention obtained from the mixing of the two preceding compositions.
  • a subject of the invention is also a device for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising the composition of the invention in liquid form and a mousse dispenser for delivering the composition in the form of a mousse.
  • the composition of the invention is in the form of a mousse that is particularly pleasant to apply. It has a light, airy texture, which makes it particularly pleasant to use.
  • the qualities of the mousse are sufficiently long-lasting to enable uniform application of the dye product, without running.
  • the composition makes it possible to conserve particularly efficient dyeing properties such as the colour strength, the resistance to external agents (shampoos, perspiration, light) and the selectivity.
  • the human keratin fibers treated via the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
  • composition of the invention comprises one or more associative polymer(s).
  • Associative polymers that may be used according to the invention
  • association polymers means water-soluble polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.
  • Their chemical structure comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region characterized by at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain.
  • the associative polymers according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type.
  • R' denotes H or CH 3
  • B denotes an ethylenoxy radical
  • n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyi, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyi radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the unit of formula (I) that is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci 8 ).
  • Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.
  • anionic associative polymers those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl
  • (meth)acrylates from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0 to 1 % by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • the ones that are most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth 10), especially those sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
  • -(B) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (Ci 0 -C 30 ) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
  • polystyrene resin preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:
  • R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R 3 denoting a C10- C 30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
  • (Cio-C 30 )alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising:
  • polyethylenic unsaturated monomer for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type use will be made more particularly of those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.
  • those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1 ®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 ®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
  • -(C) maleic anhydride/C 3 o-C38 oc-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride/C 3 o-C3 8 oc-olefin/isopropyl maleate) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
  • -(D) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
  • Example 3 such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
  • a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
  • these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C C 4 alcohol.
  • Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.
  • - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C 6 - C 8 )alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578; - copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which are non-crosslinked and crosslinked;
  • R and R' which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom
  • o X and X' which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L";
  • o L, U and L which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate
  • o P and P' which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group
  • o Y represents a hydrophilic group
  • o r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive;
  • o n, m and p are each, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000 inclusive;
  • the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.
  • One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) described above and in which:
  • o R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, o X and X' each represent a group L",
  • o n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and o L, U, L", P, P', Y and m have the meaning given above.
  • Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which:
  • n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not comprise units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation.
  • the protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • o R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • o X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine
  • the number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 and ideally between 1000 and 300 000.
  • hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.
  • hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon- based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • X and/or X' denote(s) a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine
  • X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulae:
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
  • R and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched CrC 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
  • o A " is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
  • Z represents -0-, -S- or -NH-; and o R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
  • the groups P and P' comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
  • R 5 and R 7 have the same meanings as R 2 defined above;
  • R 6 , Rs and R 9 have the same meanings as and R 3 defined above;
  • R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P;
  • o A " is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
  • hydrophilic group means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
  • hydrophilic polymer in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) that may be used according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing a labile hydrogen.
  • the functions containing a labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively.
  • polyurethanes in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
  • a first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one unit bearing an amine function.
  • This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to one preferential embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function.
  • a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
  • this compound may comprise more than one unit containing an amine function.
  • it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
  • Examples of compounds containing an amine function include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N- sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
  • the second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:
  • R 4 is as defined above.
  • methylenediphenyl diisocyanate methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
  • a third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).
  • This compound is formed from a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol.
  • this compound may be, for example, -hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
  • the hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (la) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit.
  • the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent.
  • This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • the cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block.
  • This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer.
  • This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
  • the functions containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing a labile hydrogen.
  • hydrophilic polymer When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (la) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary amine or protonated function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
  • hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are, however, preferred.
  • - ( ⁇ ') quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • the quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:
  • quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;
  • R and R' which may be identical or different, represent an ammonium group such as R a R b R c N + -, Q " in which R a , R b and R c , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C 30 and preferentially C C 2 o alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and o Q " represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
  • o n, x and y which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses i) or hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C 8 -C 30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM- X529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B® (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-8® (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (Ci 8 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide
  • R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH 3 ) 3 N + CI "
  • R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH 3 ) 2 (Ci2H25)N + CI "
  • Polymers of this type are known under the trade name softCAT Polymer SL®, such as SL-100 and SL-60.
  • the polymers of formula (lb) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive.
  • softCAT Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs
  • softCAT Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • softCAT Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • softCAT Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
  • the said polymers comprise:
  • o X denotes an oxygen atom or a radical NR 6 ,
  • R and R 6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C 5 alkyl radical
  • o R 2 denotes a linear or branched C C 4 alkyl radical
  • o R 3 , R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched CrC 30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (lllc):
  • Y and Y 2 denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C 2 -Ci 6 alkylene radical
  • R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C 4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical
  • R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CrC 30 alkyl radical
  • o m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive, o x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive, o Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate;
  • R 3 , R 4 , R 5 or R 8 denotes a linear or branched C 9 -C 30 alkyl radical
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked and may also be block polymers.
  • the counterion Z " of the monomers of formula (lc) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CrC 30 alkyl radical.
  • the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (lc) for which, even more preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.
  • the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):
  • o s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6
  • R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C 5 alkyl radical
  • R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C 5 alkyl radical
  • radicals R 9 and R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.
  • R 3 and R 4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C 5 alkyl radical.
  • terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 % to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used.
  • vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamido- propylammonium tosylate terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamido- propylammonium tosylate terpolymers
  • vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamido- propylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers are used in particular.
  • the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethylacrylamido propylammonium chloride terpolymer is sold by the company ISP under the names
  • Styleze W10 and Styleze W20L are identical.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000. It is more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and even more preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.
  • - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the linear or branched alkyl groups are preferably C 8 -C 2 2, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® (Ci 6 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, the product Polysurf 67 CS (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) sold by the company Ashland or the product Bermocoll EHM 100® sold by the company Berol Nobel, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
  • groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22® (C 2 2 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (C M alkyl chain) and RE205-1 ® (C 20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc,
  • polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences,
  • polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.
  • the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon- based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon- based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
  • the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
  • the product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C 2 o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
  • examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox.
  • the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.
  • Luvigel Star polyurethane-39 sold by the company BASF, which is a copolymer of PEG-140 and of hexamethylene diisocyanate terminated with C12-14 pareth-10, C16-18 pareth-11 and C18-20 pareth-1 1.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271 , 380-389 (1993).
  • a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising: (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide,
  • Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm &
  • Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %);
  • Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
  • amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, the ones that are preferred are those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably
  • amphoteric associative polymers that are preferred according to the invention comprise or are prepared by copolymerizing:
  • R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom
  • n is an integer from 2 to 5
  • a " is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
  • R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom
  • R 8 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one of the monomers of formula (XIX), (XX), (XXI) or (XXII) comprising at least one fatty chain.
  • the monomers of formulae (XIX) and (XX) according to the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by:
  • these monomers optionally being quaternized, for example with a C C 4 alkyl halide or a C C 4 dialkyl sulfate.
  • the monomers of formula (XXI) are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (XXI) is acrylic acid.
  • the monomers of formula (XXII) are preferably chosen from the group formed from C12-C22 and more particularly Ci 6 -Ci 8 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
  • the monomers constituting the fatty-chain amphoteric polymers of the invention are preferably already neutralized and/or quaternized.
  • the ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges is preferably equal to about 1.
  • amphoteric associative polymers preferably comprise from 1 mol% to 10 mol% of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (XIX), (XX) or (XXII)), and preferably from 1.5 mol% to 6 mol%.
  • the weight-average molecular weights of the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may range from 500 to 50 000 000 and are preferably between 10 000 and 5 000 000.
  • amphoteric associative polymers may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C C 4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
  • Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.
  • amphoteric associative polymers the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
  • the associative polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (6), (E), (B) and ( ⁇ ').
  • the associative polymers are chosen from those of nonionic or cationic type and even more particularly from polyurethane polyethers bearing hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks, nonionic cellulose derivatives comprising at least one fatty chain, and quaternized cellulose derivatives comprising at least one fatty chain.
  • nonionic polyurethanes such as those sold under the names Aculyn 44® and Aculyn 46®, Luvigel Star®, nonionic cellulose derivatives such as those of cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold under the names Natrosol Plus
  • Softcat Polymer SL-100® and Softcat Polymer SL-60® or Quatrisoft LM200 Softcat Polymer SL-100® and Softcat Polymer SL-60® or Quatrisoft LM200.
  • the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic and cationic cellulose derivatives.
  • the nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic associative polymer(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition comprises one or more alkaline agent(s).
  • This agent may be chosen from mineral or organic or hybrid alkaline agents, or mixtures thereof.
  • the mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (VI) below:
  • W is a C C 6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical
  • Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C C 6 alkyl, C C 6 hydroxyalkyl or C C 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane,
  • alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C C 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising from one to three identical or different C C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
  • amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (VII) below:
  • i e notes a group chosen from: -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (VII) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and baleine.
  • the organic amine is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 , 1-dimethylguanidine, 1 , 1- diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and/or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. More preferentially still, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
  • the composition of the invention comprises as alkaline agent one or more alkanolamines.
  • the alkanolamine is ethanolamine (or monoethanolamine).
  • the composition of the invention comprises as alkaline agent one or more alkanolamines (preferably ethanolamine) and aqueous ammonia.
  • alkanolamine(s) are present in predominant amount relative to the aqueous ammonia.
  • the composition according to the invention has a content of alkaline agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more oxidizing agent(s).
  • the oxidizing agents are chosen, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
  • the content of oxidizing agent(s) more particularly represents from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dye precursors.
  • Oxidation bases and couplers may be used as oxidation dye precursors.
  • the oxidation bases are chosen from para- phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho- aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
  • para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis -hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N- bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)
  • para-phenylenediamine para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2 ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
  • bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy
  • para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
  • ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
  • heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4- diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
  • pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
  • pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-
  • a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more preferentially 4,5- diamino-1- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof.
  • Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydro- pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1
  • couplers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made especially of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
  • the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • the oxidation base(s) are each generally present in an amount of from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the coupler(s) each generally represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may contain cationic or nonionic synthetic or natural direct dyes.
  • Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanin direct dyes, for instance tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanine direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • direct dyes from among: azo; methine; carbonyl; azine; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri(hetero)arylmethane; porphyrin; phthalocyanine and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) may be cationic, amphoteric, nonionic and/or anionic surfactants.
  • the surfactants that are useful in the composition of the invention are surfactants that are known per se in the field of dyeing keratin fibres.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
  • Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -
  • Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH- S0 3 Z',
  • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
  • Ra' represents a Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of betaines comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 fatty chain and in particular the compounds of formula (A):
  • a and A 2 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical,
  • R 2 and R 3 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • R 2 and R 3 denote a methyl radical.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may especially be (C 8 _ 2 0 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 _ 20 )alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 _ 20 alkyl)amido(C 2 . 8 alkyl)betaines or (C 8 _ 20 alkyl)amido(C 6 - 8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.
  • amphoteric surfactants mentioned above that are preferably used are (C 8 . 20 alkyl)betaines and (C 8 . 20 alkyl)amido(C 2 . 8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric surfactants of betaine type ii) are selected from cocoylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , OS0 3 H, OS0 3 " , H 2 P0 3 , HP0 3 " , P0 3 2” , H 2 P0 2 , HP0 2 , HP0 2 " , P0 2 " , POH, PO " .
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglyco
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and Ce-24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) (ii) when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants it is preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably selected from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
  • examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
  • Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:
  • the groups R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from Ci. 30 alkyl, Ci. 30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -C 6 )alkylene, Ci.
  • alkylamide (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C 6 )alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylacetate and Ci. 30 hydroxyalkyl;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (C C 4 )alkyl- or (C C 4 )alkylaryl- sulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IX) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance
  • dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular
  • stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;
  • R 12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C C 4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 14 represents a C C 4 alkyl group
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C 4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R 14 denotes a methyl group, and R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
  • R 17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri 6 a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH 2 )3, Rie a , Ri7a, Risa, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R 2 i, which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XII) below:
  • R22 is selected from C C 6 alkyl radicals and C C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated d- C 2 2 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • R 2 g which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • R24, R26 and R 2 8 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 2 i hydrocarbon radicals;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to
  • X " is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R 2 3 denotes R 27 and that when z is 0, then R 25 denotes R 29 .
  • the alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon group R 27 , it may be long and may have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon group R 29 , it has preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon- based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function may be used.
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • x and y are equal to 1 ;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R 2 s which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • alkyldiisopropanolamine which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with Ci 0 -C 30 fatty acids or with mixtures of Ci 0 -C 30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate,
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyethylene glycols • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acids and of polyethylene glycols,
  • the surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30.
  • the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 /Ci 0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • Nonionic surfactants that may also be mentioned include non-oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N- acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
  • the surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from amphoteric, nonionic and anionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) are selected from amphoteric and anionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) are selected from amphoteric surfactants.
  • the composition of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants and one or more anionic surfactants.
  • the nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated plant oils, which may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates.
  • the total amount of surfactants in the cosmetic composition of the invention generally ranges from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing or lightening the hair, such as anionic, cationic or nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
  • adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing or lightening the hair, such as anionic, cationic or nonionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
  • the above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise water and/or one or more organic solvents.
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1 ,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C C 4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobuty
  • the organic solvents when they are present, generally represent between 1 % and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
  • the composition is preferably aqueous.
  • it preferably comprises from 30% to 95% by weight of water, better still from 40% to 90% by weight of water and even better still from 50% to 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 and preferably between 5 and 11. Preferably, between 7 and 1 1 limits included.
  • composition according to the invention is presented for application to keratin fibres in the form of a mousse.
  • composition in mousse form according to the invention is formed from a mixture of air or of an inert gas with the composition described previously.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of a temporary mousse produced just before use.
  • the composition may be conditioned in a mousse dispenser. They may be either "aerosol" products dispensed from a pressurized container, by means of a propellant gas and thus forming a mousse when they are dispensed, or compositions dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head, the passage of the composition through the dispensing head transforming it into a mousse at the latest at an outlet orifice of such a head.
  • the dispenser may be an aerosol, containing, besides the base composition, generally divided into two parts, one with the oxidizing agent(s) and the other with the dye precursor(s), a propellant gas.
  • the two parts are generally stored separately, each in a container under pressure.
  • the propellant gases selected in each of the containers may be adapted to the part contained.
  • the propellant gas that may be used may be chosen from carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrogen oxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane and pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dispensing head is such that the substance that is sprayed in mousse form is the composition according to the invention, i.e. the mixture of the composition with the oxidizing agent(s) and the composition with the oxidation dye precursor(s).
  • the composition may be in a mousse dispenser of "pump-action bottle” type.
  • These dispensers comprise a dispensing head for delivering the composition, a pump and a dip tube for transferring the composition from the container into the head to deliver the product.
  • a mousse is formed by forcing the composition to pass through a material comprising a porous substance such as a sintered material, a plastic or metal filtering grille, or similar structures.
  • the oxidizing agent(s) are conditioned in a first container equipped with a stopper, and the oxidation dye precursor(s) are conditioned in a second container, separate from the first, and also closed with a closing member.
  • the closing member may be a pump-action dispensing mechanism.
  • the composition according to the invention is then formed by mixing, before use, a composition with the oxidizing agent(s) and a composition with the oxidation dye precursor(s).
  • one from among the first and second container defines an internal volume that is sufficient to receive therein all of the two compositions.
  • the mixture of the compositions may be homogenized by closing this container and shaking the container.
  • This dispensing head comprises a mechanical pump held in a brace intended for mounting by click-fastening or screwing onto the neck of the container containing the mixture.
  • the pump comprises a pump body connected to a dip tube for dispensing all of the mixture.
  • the pump also comprises a push button for actuating the pump body, such that each time it is actuated, a dose of composition is sucked into the dip tube and ejected in mousse form at the dispensing orifice of the head.
  • the containers are preferentially made of a thermoplastic material, and obtained via extrusion blow-moulding or injection blow-moulding processes.
  • the container for conditioning the composition with the oxidation dye precursor(s) is made of a material comprising a non-zero proportion of EVOH.
  • the pump is, for example, the standard model "F2-L9" sold by the company Rexam.
  • a subject of the invention is a non-aerosol device comprising the composition of the invention.
  • a subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising, in a first compartment, a composition containing one or more surfactant(s), one or more oxidation dye precursor(s), one or more alkaline agent(s), in a second, a composition containing one or more oxidizing agents, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more associative polymer(s), and in a third, a container equipped with a member for applying in mousse form the composition according to the invention obtained from the mixing of the two preceding compositions.
  • the dyeing process according to the invention consists in applying the composition according to the invention to wet or dry human keratin fibres for a time that is sufficient to develop the desired coloration.
  • the composition applied to the keratin fibres is in mousse form.
  • the dyeing process is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and up to temperatures that may be as high as 60°C to 80°C. After a leave-on time of from one minute to one hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes, the human keratin fibres are rinsed with water, and optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water.
  • compositions are prepared (the amounts are expressed in g% of active material):
  • compositions E1 and E2 above are obtained by mixing together, before use, two compositions: A1 and B for composition E1 , A2 and B for composition E2:
  • Oxidation dye precursors base(s) and qs shade qs shade coupler(s)) Cocoylbetaine 2.5 2.5
  • Aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH 3 ) 1.5 -
  • the mixture is introduced in an amount of 65 g (26 g of composition A + 39 g of composition B) into a pump-action bottle (L9 Rexam) equipped with a dip tube.
  • the device makes it possible by pumping to obtain a mousse that is sufficiently compact to be applied to natural or permanent-waved grey hair containing 90% white hairs, and not to disintegrate immediately. The comfort on application is very good.
  • the locks are rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried to give the desired coloration. This coloration is strong and sparingly selective.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition de teinture de fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, sous forme de mousse, comprenant : (a) un ou plusieurs polymères associatifs ; (b) un ou plusieurs agents alcalins ; (c) un ou plusieurs agents tensio-actifs ; (d) un ou plusieurs agents oxydants ; (e) un ou plusieurs précurseurs de colorants d'oxydation. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques humaines à l'aide de cette composition sous forme de mousse, et des dispositifs aérosols ou non-aérosols pour produire la mousse.
PCT/EP2011/068925 2010-11-02 2011-10-28 Composition de teinture sous forme de mousse comprenant un polymère associatif WO2012059405A1 (fr)

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FR1059008 2010-11-02
FR1059008A FR2966729B1 (fr) 2010-11-02 2010-11-02 Composition de coloration mousse comprenant un polymere associatif
US41246410P 2010-11-11 2010-11-11
US61/412,464 2010-11-11

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD768503S1 (en) 2014-03-28 2016-10-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Foam dispenser
CN107921293A (zh) * 2015-08-04 2018-04-17 欧莱雅 包括碱性剂、氧化剂和可开闭气密容器的用于对角蛋白纤维染色和/或漂白的试剂盒

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BR112021005778B1 (pt) * 2018-09-28 2023-11-14 L'oreal Composição para modelar ou alterar a forma dos cabelos, método para modelar ou alterar a forma dos cabelos, kit e usos de uma composição

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD768503S1 (en) 2014-03-28 2016-10-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Foam dispenser
USD772073S1 (en) 2014-03-28 2016-11-22 The Procter & Gamble Company Foam dispenser
CN107921293A (zh) * 2015-08-04 2018-04-17 欧莱雅 包括碱性剂、氧化剂和可开闭气密容器的用于对角蛋白纤维染色和/或漂白的试剂盒

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