WO2011148323A1

WO2011148323A1 - Cosmetic composition based on a supramolecular polymer and a silicone elastomer

Info

Publication number: WO2011148323A1
Application number: PCT/IB2011/052274
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathalie Geffroy; Roberto Cavazutti; Claudia Barba
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-05-26
Filing date: 2011-05-25
Publication date: 2011-12-01

Abstract

The present invention relates mainly to a cosmetic composition and in particular a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one supramolecular polymer and an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Description

The present invention relates mainly to a cosmetic composition and in particular a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the Hps, comprising at. least one supramolecular polymer and an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

in general, when women use a makeup product, especially of foundation or lipstick type, they wish this product to have, after application, good remanence on. the skin or the lips, and in particular not to he transferred.

With regard to this expectation, one or more polymers that are specifically dedicated towards affording these improved remanence properties over time are commonly introduced into compositions of this type, illustrations of these polymers that may particularly be mentioned include silicone resins, polyacryi tes and latices.

However, the abovementioned polymers, which are advantageous in terms of remanence and transfer-resistance properties, are unfortunately liable, to give rise to discomfort sensations, during application (difficult spreading, tackiness) and/or after application (tautness, mask effect) of the cosmetic product containing them.

Supramolecular polymers such as those described in patent applications EP 2 189 151 and FR 2 938 758 are, on the other hand, known for allowing the production on the skin and/or the lips o a deposit that is both comfortable and endowed with good properties in terms of improved remanence over time, in particular of remanence of the colour of the deposit (no embrittlement or fragmentation of the deposit, which remains uniform). There remains, however, a sensation of "tackiness" for the user during application and drying on the skin and/or the lips of prod cts incorporating these supramolecular polymers.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it proves to be possible to overcome this drawback provided that such supramolecular polymers are used in combination with an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The aim of the present invention is especially to overcome this drawback and to propose a cosmetic composition that can, on the one hand, afford good cosmetic properties such as good adhesion to the support (skin) and thus good remancnce of the composition, where appropriate, good sheen, and that can, on the other hand, form a non- tacky or sparingly tacky deposit that is particularly resistant to external attack by fatty substances (oil, meals or sebum) and to friction, resulting in less wear of the deposit.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process tor making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the said skin and/or the said Lips of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one supramolecuiar polymer, at least one organopolysil oxane elastomer and at least one fatty phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable inedium" is intended to denote inedium that is suitable for applying a composition to the skin and/or the lips.

Advantageously, the compositions under consideration according to the invention are anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less tha 1 % by weight of water relative to die total weight of the composition.

The term "anhydrous" especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.

According to certain embodiments, it may be envisaged for the compositions according to the invention and used in the processes according to the invention to be t ee of ethanoi.

As emerges from the examples below, the combination under consideration according to tlie invention proves to be most particularly effective for affording the composition applied to the skin or the lips improved remanence over time, in particular remanence of the colour of the deposit (no embrittlement or fragmentation of the deposit, which remains homogeneous) and satisfactory comfort properties, both on application and during wearing (no sensation of tackiness, or sensation of tautness or dryness, especially reduction of the tack o drying and, in certain embodiments, a transfer-resistance effect).

What is more, in the ease of foundations, its transfer-resistance properties are moreover significantly improved.

This particular embodiment may especially allow access to compositions, especially makeup compositions, whose deposits on keratin materials, and in particular the skin and/or the lips, is uniform and/or non-tacky or sparingly tacky. Such a deposit may especially afford a sensation of comfort to the wearer (softness, glidance of the deposit formed).

in addition, such a composition may have improved properties in terms of transfer resistance, remanence of the deposit, especially in terms of colour (no embrittlement or fragmentation of the deposit, which remains uniform and/or resistant to friction), and of resistance to fats.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for making up and/or caring for the ski and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one supramolecular polymer, at least one silicone el stomer and at least one fatty phase.

The compositions under consideration according to the invention may be in solid or liquid form at 2()°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20°C. In particular, a solid composition according to the invention has, at a temperature of 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mraHg), a hardness of greater than 30 Nm^"1 and preferably greater than 40 Mm⁴.

As developed below, in a particular variant of the invention, the cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the Hps according to the invention may also comprise an additional step consisting in artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit of the composition simultaneously with or subsequent to its application, by exposure of said deposit to blown air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 °C.

Protocol for raeasariag the hardness ;

The hardness of a composition especially of lipstick wand type is measured according to the following protocol:

The stick of lipstick is stored at 20°€ for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire" method, which consists in. transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μπι in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the nvention, expressed in Nm^"\, is measured using a DFGHS2 tensile testing machine from the company mdelco- Chati!lon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which die wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).

The hardness is converted into Nm¹ by the equation below:

(Y x 10^"3 x 9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to this measuring method, a solid composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20°C of greater than or equal to 30 Nm^"1, preferably greater than 40 Nm and preferably greater than 50 Nm^'1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm^"1, especially less than 400 Nm^'! and preferably less than 300 Nm^"1 ,

in particular, a composition whose hardness is greater than 30 Nm^"' is said to be "solid" at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg}.

It may especially be, in particular in the case of a skin makeup composition such as a foundation, a loose or compact powder or a liquid formulati n that may he anhydrous or of oil-in- water or water-in-oiJ emulsion type,

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a skin and/or lip makeup composition, especially for facial or bodily skin; it may be a complexion product such as a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow; a Hp product, such as a lipstick or a lipcare product; a concealer product: a blusher; an eyeliner: a lip pencil or an eye pencil; a body makeup product; a gloss (lip gloss).

According to a first advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is intended for making up the lips, and it is then more particularly a lipstick or a gloss (liquid lipstick). According to a second advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is intended for making up the skin, and it is then more particularly a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow or a body makeup product.

§B¾j..¾ lg£M ! o 'i¾!gr

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention thus comprise a polya!kene-based (i.e. polyolefin) supramolecuiar polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyalkene based supramolecuiar polymer" means a polymer derived from the reaction, especially the condensation, of at least one polyalkene polymer functionalized with at least one reactive group, with at least one junction group functionalized with at least one reactive group capable of reacting with the reactive group(s) of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, said junction group being capable of forming at least three H (hydrogen) bonds and preferably at least four H bonds, preferentially four H bonds.

The terms "polyalkene" and "polyolefin" mean a polymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer of alkene type, comprising an ethylenic unsaiuration, the said monomer possibly being pendent or in the main chain of the said polymer. The terms "polyalkene" and "polyolefin" are thus directed towards polymers that may or may not comprise a double bond. Preferably, the supramolecuiar polymers used according to the invention are prepared from a polymer derived from the polymerization of an alkene comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations.

The supramolecuiar polymer according to die invention is capable of forming a supramolecuiar polymer chain or network, by (selfSassembly of said polymer according to the invention with at least one other identical or different polymer according to the invention, each assembly involving at least one pair of paired junction groups, which may be identical or different,^' borne by each of the polymers according to the invention.

For the purposes of the invention, the terra "junction group" means any group comprising groups that donate or accept H bonds, and capable of forming at least three H bonds and preferably at least four H bonds, preferentially four H bonds, with an identical or different partner junction group. These junction groups may be lateral to the polymer backbone (side branching) and/or borne by the ends of the polymer backbone, and/or in the chain forming the polymer backbone, They may be distributed in a random or controlled maimer.

The polyaikene polymers are functionalized with at least one reactive group and preferably with at least two reactive groups. The_. functionalization preferably occurs at the chain ends. They are then referred to as telechelic polymers.

The functionalization groups, or reactive groups, may be attached to the polyaikene polymer via linkers, preferably linear or branched C₁-C4 alkylene groups, or directly via a single bond.

Preferably, the functionalized polyaikene polymers have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of between 1000 and 8000.

Even more preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass of between 1000 and 5000, or even between 1 500 and 4500.

Even more preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass of between

2000 and 4000.

Preferably, the functionalized polyaikene polymer, capable of forming all or part, of the polymer backbone of the supramolecular polymer according to the invention (preferably, it forms all of the backbone of the polymer), is of formula HO-P-OH in which:

- P represents a homo- or copolymer that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more linear, cyclic and/or branched, polyunsaturated (preferably die unsaturated) /C2-Q0 and preferably C2-C4 alkenes.

P preferably represents a homo- or copolymer that may be obtained by polymeri za tion of one or more linear or branched, C2-C4 ^unsaturated alkenes,

More preferably, P represents a polymer, chosen from a polybutylene, a polybutadiene (such as a .1 ,4-polybutadiene or a 1 ,2-polybutadiene), a polyisoprene, a poly(l ,3-pentadiene) and a olyisobutylene, and copolymers thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, P represents a poly (ethy 1 en e/butylene ) copol ym er .

The preferred poly(ethylene/butylenes) are copolymers of 1 -butene and of ethylene. They may be represented schematically by the following sequence of units:

[-CB2-CH2-] and \ -C i i \ -( - ^- According to a second preferred embodiment, P is a polybutadiene homopolymer, preferably chosen from a 1 ,4-polybutadie.ne or a 1,2-polybutadiene. The polybutadienes may be 1 ,4-polybutadienes or 1 ,2-polybutadienes, which may be represented schematically, respectively, by the following sequences of units:

[-C¾-CH=CH-CH_?-3 (1,4-polybutadienes)

i^'-<11 -( ^'! i((l !^:: Ci h - ; (1,2-polybutadienes)

Preferably, they are 1 ,2-polybutadienes. Preferably, P is a 1 ,2-polybutadiene homopolymer.

According to another embodiment, P is a poiyisoprene. Polyisoprenes may be represented schematically by the following sequences of units:

A mixture of above units may obviously also be used, so as to form copolymers.

The functionalized polyalkene polymers may be totally hydrogenated to avoid the risks of crosslinking. Preferably, the functionalized polyalkene polymers used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrogenated.

Preferably, the polyalkene polymers are hydrogenated and functionalized with at least two OH reactive groups, which are preferably at the ends of the polymers.

Preferably, they have functionality as hydroxy! end groups of from 1 .8 to 3 and preferably in the region of 2.

The polydienes containing hydroxy! end groups are especially defined, for example, in F 2 782 723. They may be chosen from polybutadiene, poiyisoprene and poly(l ,3-pentadiene) homopolymers and copolymers. Mention will be made in particular of the hydroxylated polybutadienes sold by the company Sartomer, for instance the Krasol® Resins and the Poly bd® Resins. Preferably, they are hydrogenated di hydroxylated 1 ,2-polybutadiene homopolymers, such as the range Nisso-PB 1, GI3000, GI200Q and G i l 000 sold by the company isso, which ma be represented schematically b v the fol 1 owin g formula :

Preferably, ir is between 14 and 105 and preferably between 20 and 85.

^'i^'hese polymers have the following number-average molecular masses: GI3000 of Mn - 4700, GI2000 of Mn = 3300 and GH OOO of Mn = 1500. These values are measured by GPC according to the following protocol:

PROTOCOL FOR DETERMINING THE MOLECULAR MASSES OF THE

StIPRAMOLECULAK POLYMER BY GPC

Determination of the number-average molecular mass. « , the weight-average molecular mass Mw and the po!ydispersity index MwIMn in polystyrene equivalents.

* Preparation of the stan dard solutions

Prepared the polystyrene standards from Varian ^'kits (ref,: PS-PI (PL2010-0200) The calibration masses are the following:

PS 6035000 - PS 3053000 - PS 915000 - PS 483000 - PS 184900 - PS 60450 - PS 19720 ~ PS 8450 - PS 3370 - PS 1260 - PS 580

Inject 100 μΐ of each of the solutions into the calibration column.

® Preparation of the sample;

Prepare a solution with a solids content of 0.5% in THE.

Prepare the solution about 24 hours before injection.

Filter the solution through a Millex FH filter (0.45 μηι).

Inject into the column.

* Chromatographic conditions:

Columns: PL Rapid M (batch 5M-Poly~008-15) from Polymer Labs

PL-gel HTS-D (batch 5M- D-72-2) from Polymer Labs

PL-gel HTS-F (10M-2- 169B-25) from Polymer Labs

PL-Rapid-F (6M-0L1 -01 1-6) from Polymer Labs Length: 150 mm - inside diameter: 7.5 mm

Pump; isoeratic M i 515 Waters

Eluent: THE Flow rate; 1 mi/minute

Temperature: ambient

Injection: 100 μΐ at 0.5% AM in the eluent

Detection: RI 64 mV (Waters 2424 reiractomeie ) Temperature: 45°C

UV at 254 nm at 0.1 OD (Waters 2487 UV detector)

Integrator: Empower option GPC

* Determination of the molar masses

The average molar masses are determined by plotting the calibration curve: Log molar mass ^:::: f (illusion volume at the top of the RI detection peak.) and using the Empower option GPC software from Waters.

Among the polyolefins with hydroxy! end groups, mention may be made preferenti ally of pol ol efins, homopolymers or copolymers with α,ω-hydroxyl end groups, such as po!yisobutylenes with ,ο-hydroxyl end groups; and the copolymers of formula:

especially those sold by Mitsubishi, under the brand name Polvtail.

Junction group

The sirpramoSecuiar polymers according to the invention also have in their structure at least one residue of a junction group capabie of forming at east three H bonds and preferably at least four H bonds, said junction group being initially functionalized with at least one reactive group.

Unless otherwise mentioned, the term "junction group" means in the present description the group without its reactive function.

The reactive groups are attached to the junction group via linkers L. L is a single bond or a saturated or unsaturated

divalent carbon-based group chosen in particular from a linear or branched CrC?o aikylene; a C -C20 (alkyl)cycloalkylene aikylene (preferably cyclohexylene methylene), a Cn-Cso aikylene- biscycloalkylene (preferably alkylene-biscyclohexylene), a Ο ¼ο (alkyl)arylene, an alkylene-bisaryiene (preferably an alkylene-biphenylene), the linker L possibly being substituted with at least one alkyl group and/or possibly comprising 1 to 4 N and/or O heteroatoms, especially in the form of an NQ₂ subsiituent.

Preferably, the linker is a group chosen form phenylene; 1 ,4-nitrophenyiene; 1 ,2-ethylene: 1 ,6-hexylene; 1 ,4-butylene; 1 ,6-{2,4,4-trimethylhexylene); l,4-(4~ methylpentylene); 1 ,5-(5-raethylhexylene); 1 ,6-(6-methylheptylene); 1 ,5-(2,2,5- trimethylhexylene); 1 ,7-(3,7-dimeihyloctyiene); --isophorone-; 4,4⁵ -methylene bis(cyclohexylene); tolylene; 2-meihyl- 1 ,3-phenylene; 4-memyl-l,3-phenylene; 4,4- biphenylenemethyfene;

Preferably, the linker is chosen from the groups:

- C5-C20 (alkyl)cycloalkylene alkyiene, such as isophorone,

- Cj j-C₂5 alkylene-biscyeloalkylene, such as 4,4'-metb.ylene biscyclohexene,

- C1-C20 aikylene such as -(CH₂)₂-; -(CH₂)₆-; -CH₂CH(CH₃)-CH2-C(CH₃)_?- Ce₂-CH₂, and

- C6-C20 (alkyl ) phenylene, such as 2 -methyl- 1 ,3-phenylene.

Preferably. L is chosen from: -isophorone-; -(€¾)>-; -(C¾)_<sS C¾CH(CH3)- CH2~C(CH3)2-CH₂-CH₂; 4,4^*-methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl- 1 ,3-ph.enylene.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the linker is an alkylcycloalkjdene alkyl ene.

Preferably, according to ibis embodiment, the linker is an isophorone group. The term "isophorone" means the following group:

The said reactive groups functionalizing the junction group must be capable of reacting with the -OH reactive group(s) borne by die functionalized polyalkene.

Reactive groups that may be mentioned include isocyanate (~N=C=0) and thioisocyanate (-N= =S) groups, Preferably, it is a group -N=C=0 (isocyanate).

The functionalized junction groups capable of forming at least three H bonds may comprise at least three identical or different functional groups, and preferably at least four functional groups, chosen from: \ \ !

C-0 C=N^~- NH

/ /

These functional groups may be classified into two categories:

- functional groups thai donate H bonds:

I

— H

- functional groups that accept H bonds:

\ . \

C^O C^

/ /

The junction groups capable of forming at least three H bonds form a basic structural element comprising at least three groups, preferably at. least four groups and more preferentially four functional groups capable of establishing H bonds. Said basic structural elements capable of establishing H bonds may be represented schematically in the following manner:

in which X-. is an H-bond accepting functional group (identical or different) and Y- is an H-bond donating functional group (identical or different).

Thus, each structural element^" should be able to establish H bonds with one or more partner structural elements, which are identical (i.e. self-complementary) or different, such that each pairing of two partner structural elements takes place by formation of at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds and more preferentially four H bonds.

A proton acceptor X will pair with a proton donor Y. Several possibilities are thus offered, for example pairing of: XXXX with YYYY;

XXXY with ΥΎΥΧ;

X YX with YYXY;

XYYX with YXXY;

XXYY with YYXX self-complementary or otherwise;

XYXY with YXYX self-complementary or otherwise.

Preferably, the junction groups may establish -four H bonds with an identical

(or self-complementary) partner group among which are two donor bonds (for example NH) and two acceptor bonds (for example CO and -C=N-).

Preferably, the junction groups capable of forming at least four H bonds are chosen from the following families, it being understood that all the tautomeric forms are included:

- (i) ureklopyrimidones of formula (capable of forming at least four H bonds):

in this formula, the radicals have the following meanings:

- the radicals Rj (or the radicals R| and R->) are single bonds constituting the point of attachment of the junction group to the linker capable of forming at least three (preferably tour) H bonds to the rest of the graft. Preferably, the said point of attachment is borne solely by Rj, which is a single bond.

- the radical R₂ represents a divalent group chosen from a single bond or a d-

C-6 alkyiene or a monovalent group chosen from a single bond, a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched, saturated Cj-C;o monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as 0, S or N, these groups being optionally substituted with a hydroxy], amino and/or tliio group.

Preferably, the radical R.₂ may be a single bond or a monovalent group chosen from H, CH₂OH and (C¾)₂-OH, CH₃.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, R₂ is H.

- the radical R3 represents a monovalent or divalent group, in particular, R; is chosen from a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C Cjo saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, which may contain one or more heieroatoms such as Q, S or N, these groups being optionally substituted with a hydroxy!, amino and/or thio function.

Preferably, the radical R₃ may be a monovalent group chosen from B, C¾OH and (C¾)₂-OH, CH₃.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, R₃ is a methyl group.

According to one preferred embodiment, the j unction groups are chosen from 2 - ureidopyrimidone and 6-m ethyl -2 -urei dopyrimi done.

Preferably, the preferred junction group is 6-methyl-2~ureidopyrimidone.

The junction groups, and especially the ureidopyrimidone junction groups, may be added directly or may be formed in situ during the process for preparing the supramolecular polymer. The first and second preparation methods described below illustrate these two alternatives, respectively.

in particular, the function ali zed junction groups capable of reacting with the functionalized polyaikene polymer to give the supramolecular polymer according to the invention are preferably of formula:

in which L is as defined above.

Preferably, L is chosen from the groups:

- C5-C20 (aikyl)cycloalkylene alkylene, such as isophorone,

- C11-C25 alkylene-biscycloalkylene, such as 4,4'-methylene biscyciohexene,

- C1-C20 alkylene such as ~(CH₂) ; -(CH₂)s-; -CH₂CH(CH₃K¾-C(CH₃)₂-

CH CH₂, and

- C -C20 (alkyl) phenylene, such as 2 -methyl- 1 ,3 -phenyl ene.

Preferably, L is chosen from: -isophorone-; -(CH₂)6-: 4,4'-meth.ylerse bi scyclohexyl ene.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the junction group is of formula

in which L is isophorone.

In one particularly preferred embodiment, the supramoiecular polymer of the invention corresponds to the formula:

in which:

- L' and L" have, independently of each other, the meaning given above for L;

- X, X' = O and P has the meaning given above for the functionalized polyalken e polymer.

Preferably, L' and L" represent a saturated or unsaturated divalent Cj-Cao carbon-based group chosen in. particular from a linear or branched C1-C20 alkylene; a C5- C20 (alkyi )cyeloaikylene, an alkyiene-biscycloalkylene, a C₍,-C ?o (alkyl)arylene, Preferably, V and I," represent a group from among: -isophorone-; -(⁽¾)₂-; -(CH₂)6-; -(¾(¾(€¾)- CH -C(CH3)2-CH2-CH₂; 4,4^>~methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl- 1 ,3-pheny ene.

Preferably, V and L" are identical

Preferably, L^! and L" are an isophorone group.

Preferably, P is hvdrogenaied and represents a polyethylene, a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly(l .3-pentadiene), a polyisobutylene, or a copolymer thereof, especially a po]y(eihyiene/butylene).

Preferably, P is a hydrogenated polybutadiene, preferably a hydrogenated 1,2- polybutadiene.

In one particularly preferred embodiment, the supramolecular polymer of the invention corresponds to the formula:

Preparation _.procesg

The polymer according to the invention may be prepared via the processes usually used by a person skilled in the art, especially for forming a urethane bond between the free OH functions of a polyalkene, and the isocyanate functions borne by the junction group.

By way of non-limiting illustration, a first general preparation process consists in:

- optionally ensuring that the polymer to be functioiialized does not comprise any residual water,

- heating the said polymer comprising at least two reactive OH functions to a temperature that may be between 60°C and 140°C; the hydroxy! number of the polymer possibly serving as a reference i n order to measure the degree of progress of the reaction;

- adding, preferably directly, the ureidopyrimidone junction group hearing the reactive functions, especially isocyanate such as those described in patent WO 2005/042 641 ; especially such as the junction groups having the CAS numbers 32093-85-9 and 709028-42-2,

- optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of about 90-130°€; for 1 to 24 hours;

- optionally monitoring by infrared spectroscopy the disappearance of the characteristic isocyanate band (between 2500 and 2800 cm^'1) so as to stop the reaction on total disappearance of the peak, and then allowing the final product to cool to room . temperature.

The reaction may also be monitored by assaying the hydroxy! functions; it is also possible to add ethanol in order to ensure the total disappearance of the residual isocyanate functions.

The reaction may be performed in the presence of a solvent, especially methyltetrahydrofuran. tetrahydrofuran, toluene, propylene carbonate or butyl acetate. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for forming a urethane bond. An example that may be mentioned is dibutyltin dilaurate. The polymer may finally be washed and dried, or even puri fied, according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

According to the second preferred mode of preparation, the reaction may comprise the following steps;

(i) funetionalization of the polymer, which has preferably been dried beforehand, with a diisocyanate according to the reaction scheme: OH~poiymer~OB (I q.) + NCO-.X-NCO (1 eq.) → OCN-X~NH~(0)Ci polymer-OCX OVNH-X- CO

The diisocyanate may optionally be in excess relative to the polymer. This first step may be performed in the presence of solvent, at a temperature of between 20°C and 1G0°C, This first step may be followed by a period of stirring under a controlled atmosphere for 1 to 24 hours. The mixture may optionally be heated. The degree of progress of this first step may be monitored by assaying the hydroxyi functions.

and then

(ii) reaction of the prepolymer obtained above with 6~methylisocytosme of formula:

this second step may optionally be performed in the presence of a cosolvent such as toluene, butyl acetate or propylene carbonate. The reaction mixture may be heated to between 80°C and 140°C for a time ranging between 1 and 24 hours. The presence of a catalyst, especially dibutyltin dilaurate, may promote the production of the desired final product.

The reaction may be monitored by infrared spectroscopy, by m nitor; ng the disappearance of the characteristic peak of isocyanate between 2200 and 2300 cm^'1. At the end of the reaction, etbanol may be added to the reaction medium in order to neutralize any residual isocyanate functions. The reaction mixture may be optionally filtered. The polymer may also be stripped directly in a cosmetic solvent.

According to one particular mode, the said supramolecular polymer is dissolved in a hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably volatile, in particular isododecane.

Thus, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one hydrocarbon- based oil, which is preferably volatile, in particular at least isododecane, especially provided by the supramolecular polymer solution. In. particular, the siipramolecular polymer(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight of solids, relative to the tola! weight of the composition.

According to one preferred variant, the siipramolecular polymer(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an even more preferred variant, the siipramolecular polymer(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0,3% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an even more preferred variant, the supramoleeular poiymer(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5^f½ to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

hi one particular embodiment of the invention, a makeup composition is in the form of a foundation and the supramoleeular polymer(s) may be present therein in a content ranging from 2.5% to 60% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an even more preferred variant, a makeup composition is in the form of a foundation and the supramoleeular polymer(s) may be present therein in an amount ranging from 2.5% to 40% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an even more preferred variant, a makeup composition is in the form of a foundation and the supramoleeular polymer(s) may be present therein in an amount ranging from 3% to 30% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition.

in another particiilar embodiment of the invention, a makeup composition is in the form of a lipstick and the siipramolecular poiymer(s) may be present therein in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred variant, a makeup composition is in the form of a lipstick and the supramoleeular polymer(s) may be present therein in a content ranging from 0.2% to 40% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an even more preferred variant, a makeup composition is in the form of a lipstick and the supramolecular polymer(s) may be present therein in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention, in particular in the case of a composition for making up the skin and/or the Hps, comprises a content of supramolecular polymer of between 5% and 99% by weight relative to the weight of the composition excluding volatile compoirad(s) (in particular relative to the weight of the composition excluding volatile oil(s), for instance isododeeane).

This content reflects the resulting content of supramolecular polymerfs) in a deposit made with, a composition or according to the process of the invention, especially on keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, for example, after evaporation of the volatile compounds.

Preferably, the compositio according to the invention, in particular in the case of a makeup composition, comprises a content of supramolecular polymer of between 10% and 90% by weight relative to the weight of the composition excluding volatile compound(s), preferably between 15% and 80%.

As stated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

These particular elastomers, when combined with a supramolecular polymer that is moreover required according to the invention, make it possible to obtain non-tacky and comfort properties (suppleness of the deposit) tor the deposits formed on the lips or the skin from compositions comprising them.

The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane that has viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethyl enically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxy! end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxy! end groups and of a hydrolysable organopoiysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high- energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the organopoivsiioxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsi!oxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C),

Compound (A) is in particular an organopoivsiioxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylefhyl, 2-phenylpropy! or 3„3 ,3~tri fluoropropy! ; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl. xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenyiethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylaie ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from meihyihydrogeiiopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, diniethylsiJoxane-methyllvydrogenoaiioxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethyls! loxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, ally! and propenyi groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a hranched-cbain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred, Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centi stokes at 25°C.

Besides the abovernentioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to silicon in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenyl ethyl, 2-pheny!propyI or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenyiethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylaie ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpoiysiloxanes. niethyh'inylsiloxane-diniethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethyipoiysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiioxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiioxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphen.ylsilo.xa.ne~ methylvinylsiioxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiioxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethy!siloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-niethylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3~triflitoropropyl}polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiioxy end groups, and dimeth.ylsiloxane-methyi(3,3,3~ trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiioxy end groups. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of a dimethyl . poiysiloxane containing dimethylvmylsiloxy end groups and of methyihydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end -groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenie groups per molecule in compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the elhylem-eally unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinkmg reaction, and is especially chloroplatinie acid, chloroplatinie acid-olefin complexes, ehloropiatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinie acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0,1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emul si tying" defines organopolysiloxane el astomers not containing any hydrophilie chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropy!ene) or any polyglyceryl units.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in. patent application JP-A-61 -194 009, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, SG-16, SG-18, .SG-41, K.SG-42, SG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shm-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Coming, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

Spherical, non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041 , DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Coming.

The elastomer may also be an emulsifying elastomer.

The term "emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer" means an organopo!ysiioxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethyl emcally unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethyl emcally unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (CI) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.

hi particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinyl iloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysi !oxane with trimethylsi!oxy end groups, in the presence of platinum ca talyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (Al ) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl. dodecyl (or lauryi), myristy!, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3 ,3 ,3~trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such, as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Compound (Al ) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopoiysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylbydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane- i auryl ethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (CI) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, ehloroplatinic acid- alkenyisiioxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyaikylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers may be fonned from di vinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, which react with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

. Polyoxyaikylenated elastomers are especially described in patents US 5 236 986, US 5 412 004, US 5 837 793 and US 5 811 487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

Polyoxyaikylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-21 , KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31 , KSG-32, KSG-33, SG- 210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-34G by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC901 1 by the company Dow Corning.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing etl lenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of giycerolated compounds containing at least two efhylenicaUy unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.

hi particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethyl vinyisiioxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with triraethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of organopoiysiioxane elastomer, and the erosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is in particular an organopoiysiioxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silico atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branehed-cham structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decy!, dodecyi (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-piienyleihyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-tritluoropropyh aryi groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xyiyl; substituted aryi groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxyiate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, the said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups,

Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from meihyihydrogenopoiysiioxanes containing trimethyisiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethyisiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- metliylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers and ^' dimetiiylsiloxane- niethy1hydrogei:K si[oxanedaurylinethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethyisiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) may be a polyglyeerolate l compound corresponding to formula (Β') below;

C,H₂m.i~C [G1y]_n- C_mH_2m, (Β')

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 io 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly denotes:

-CH₂-CH(OH)-CB₂-0- or -Ce₂-CH(CH₂OH)-0- Advantageously, the sum of the number of emylenic groups per molecule in compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded io silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4,

It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such thai the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all the ethyleni-cally unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1 ,

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosshnking reaction, and is especially chloroplatimc acid, chloroplatimc acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatimc acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatimc aeid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support,

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0,1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).

The ^' polyglycerolaied organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention is conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. hi these gels, the polyglycerolaied elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles,

Polyglycerolaied organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under consideration according to the invention is chosen from spherical non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolaied organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-31, KSG-32, SG-33, SG-210 and KSG-710 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41 , KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Coming, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric. Preferably, the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying, for example in tbe case of lipstick compositions, and in particular in the case of anhydrous compositions.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0,5% to 12% by weight.

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages of a compound are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

Advantageously, the polymer according to the invention and the organopolysiloxane elastomer are used in a polymer(s)/organ.opol.ysiloxane elastomer(s) weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 50 and more particularly from 0.5 to 40. Preferably, the polymer(s)/organopolysiloxane eiastomer(s) weight ratio ranges from I to 20.

As stated above, the elastomer is generally used with a fatty phase.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a fatty phase, which may represent from 1% to 98% by weight, especially 5% to 95% by weight or even 10% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the apposition. This fatty phase may comprise oils, waxes and/or pasty compounds and/or silicone compounds as defined below.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one oil, preferably a silicone oil, and/or a silicone compound, other than the organopolysiloxane elastomer, especially in a content of between 0.1% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more oils, which may be chosen especially from hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof. The oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils preferably have a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0,13 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxy! or acid radicals.

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from

8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Q-C j_¾ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also he a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 1 7 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly

11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n~ undeeane, n-dodeeane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mxitures thereof.

Non-volatile oils that may especially be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl g!utamate; triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C36 and especially from C[g to ⁽¼₆, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated: these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, oil, poppy oil, pumpkin' oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlemit oil, passionflower oil, shea butter oil, aloe oik sweet almond oil, peach stone oik groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oik borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, caniellina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapesee l oil, cottonseed oik coconut oil, marrow seed oik wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, com oil, meadowfoam oil, St- John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oik quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oik soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oik and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Siearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 , 812" and 818* by the company Dynamit Nobel,

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula RfCOOR.2, in which R_s represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R.2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Rj + R₂≥ 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myri state, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyi isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyi lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoat.es, and especially isostearyi heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, trideeyl octanoate, 2-etbylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethy!hexyl palmitate, alky! benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotrideeyi neopentanoate, isostearyi neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotrideeyi isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated. esters, for instance isostearyi lactate and diisostearyl malate,

- polyol esters and pentaerythritoi esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers,

- copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and esters thereof such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and esters thereof,

- copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2- octyldodeeanol, isosteary). alcoliol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyIdecarjol, 2-bu.tyloctanoi and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and Hnolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

- oils with a molar mass of between about 400 and about lO OOO g/mol, in particular about 650 to about 10 GOO g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g'mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol; mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of (i) lipophilic polymers such as polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, for example hydrogenated., polydecenes and hydrogenated poij'decenes, vinylpyrro done copolymers, such as the vinylpyrroli done/1 - hexadecene copolymer, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of a C2-C30 a!kene, such as C3-C₂₂, and combinations thereof; (ii) linear fatty acid esters containing a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; (iii) hydroxylated esters such as polyglyeeryI-2 triisosiearate; (iv) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimeliitate; (v) esters of fatty alcohols or of branched C24-C28 fatty acids, such as those described in patent US 6 491 927 and peniaerythritol esters, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2~tridecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrai ostearate, poly(2-glyceryI) tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2- tetradeeyltetradecanoate; (vi) diol dimer esters and polyesters, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid, and esters of diol dimer and of di acid.

In particular, one or more oils according to the invention may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 75% by weight or even from 3% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that this weight percentage of oil takes into account the weight of oil used for the formulation of the associated supramoleeular polymer, if present.

Silkowe com oun As stated above, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one silicone compound with a viscosity of less than 10 000 000 cSt at 25°C. Such a compound is advantageously chosen from silicone gums, volatile silicone oils and nonvolatile silicone oils,

In particular, the silicone compound under consideration according to the invention may be a silicone oil with a viscosity of between 3 centistokes (cSt) (3 x 10^"° m²/s) and 800 000 centistokes (cSt) (800 000 x 10^'6 m²/s).

Preferably, the silicone compound under consideration according to the invention, may be a non-volatile silicone oil with a viscosity of between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^" m²/s] and 600 000 centistokes (cSt) = 600 000 x 10^{" 6} ro²/s).

Sip offle_aoiIs

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group,

In particular, the volatile or non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity at 25°C of less than 800 000 cSt, preferably less than or equal to 600 000 cSt and preferably less than or equal to 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of these silicone oils may be measured according to standard AST D-445.

As emerges from the foregoing text, a composition according to the invention and/or under consideration according to a process of the invention contains at least one silicone oil other than cyclopentasiloxane. Such an oil, also known as ciecamefhylcyelopentasiloxane, is especially sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning or Mirasil CM 5.

Needless to say, a composition according to the invention or under consideration according to a process of the invention may contain a mixture of silicone oils formed only partl from such an oil.

The silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be volatile and/or non-volatile.

Thus, a composition according to the invention or under consideration according to a process of the invention may contain a mixture of volatile and non- olatile silicone oil. The term ''volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0, 13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (1()^"3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 nimHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0,02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Volatile silicone oils

Compositions according to the invention comprise at. least one volatile silicone oil.

The volatile silicone oils that may be used in the in vention may he chosen from silicone oils especially hav ng a viscosity≤ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^"6 iri7s).

Furthermore, the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may preferably be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65 °C to 95 °C.

Volatile silicone oils thai may be mentioned include:

- volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^'° m²/s at 25°C), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyi or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbo atoms.

More particularly, the volatile silicone oils are non-cyclic and are chosen in particular from;

- the non-cyclic linear silicones of formula (I): R₃SiO-(R2SiO)_n-SiR3 (I) in which R, which may be identical or different, denotes: - a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably from I to 6 carbon atoms, optionall substituted with one or more fluorine atoms or with one or more hydroxy! groups, or

- a hydroxy! group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6 and better still ranging from 3 to 5, the silicone compound of formula (!) containing not more than 1 5 carbon atoms,

- the branched silicones of formula (ΪΪ) or (10) below: SiO- i (R ^;0} Si() i - R_:SiO>vSi R.; (11)

[R₃SiO]4Si (III) in which R, which may be identical or different, denotes:

- a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms or with one or more hydroxy! groups, or

- a hydroxy! group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (II) or (il ) containing not more than 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, for the compounds of formulae (I), (II) and (Hi), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2,25 and 4,33.

The silicones of formulae (Ϊ) to (III) may be prepared according to the known processes for synthesizing silicone compounds.

Among the silicones of formula. (I) that may be mentioned are:

- the following disiloxanes: hexamethyldisiioxane (surface tension = 15,9 mN/m), sold especially under the name DC 200 Fluid 0. 65 cSt by the company Dow Corning, 1 ,3 -di-tert-buty 1-1 ,1,3,3 -tetramethyldisi loxane; 1 ,3 -dipropyl- 1 ,1,3,3- tetrametbyldisiloxane; heptylpentamethyldisiloxane; - 1,1,1 -triethyl-3 ,3 ,3- trimethyldisiloxane; hexaetbykiisiloxane; 1,1 ,3,3-tetramethybl ,3-bis(2- methyl prop yljdisiloxane; peniamethylocty!disiloxane; 1 ,1 ,1 -trimethy!-3.3,3-tris(l- methy!ethyl)disiloxane; l-butyl-3-ethyi-l _}l,3-triraeuiyI-3-propy!.disi1ox.ane; perilamcthylpentyldisiioxane; 1 -butyl- 1₅l,3,3-ietrametibyl-3-(l-methylethy!)disi!oxane; 1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethyl- 1 ,3-bis(l-metliylpropyI)disiloxane; 1J ,3-iriet.hyl- 1 ,3,3- tripropyidisiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbuiyI)peniametliyIdisiloxane; (3- metliyibutyl)pentamethyl.di8iloxarte; (3-methylpei.\tyl)pentame y]disi.{oxane; 1,1 ,1- triethyl-3,3-diinethyl-3-propyfdisiloxane; 1 -{1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)- 1 , 1 ,3,3.3- peritamethyldisiloxane; 1,1 ,l-trimetb.yl-3,3,3-tripropyldisiloxatie; 1 ,3-dimethyl-l , 1 ,3,3- ieirakis(l-meihylethyi}disiloxane; 1 , 1 -dihutyl- 1 ,3 ,3 ,3-ietramethyidisiloxane; 1.1 ,3,3- ietramethyl- 1 ,3 -bis( 1 -methyl ethyl)di siloxane; 1 ,1 ,1 ,3 -telrameihyl-3 ,3 -bis( 1 - methyl ethyl)disiloxane; 1 ,1,1 ,3-tetramethyl-3,3-dipropyldisiloxane; ] , 1 ,3,3 -ietramethyi- l,3~bis(3-methylbutyi)disiIoxane; hutylpentamemyldisiloxane; pentaethylmethyldisiloxane; 1 ,1 ,3,3-tetrametbyl-l ,3-dipentyidisiloxane; 1 ,3-dimethyl- 1 , 1 ,3,3-†etrapropyldisiloxane; 1,1,1 ,3-ietraethyl-3,3-dimeihyldisiloxane; 1,1 ,1 -criethyl- 3,3,3-tripropyldisiloxane; ,3-dibuiyl-l ,l ,3,3-ietramethyldisiioxane and hexyipentameihyldisiloxane;

- the following trisiloxanes: octaraethyltrisiloxane (surface tension ^:::: 7.4 mN/m), sold especially under the name DC 200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, 3-pentyl-l ,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-hepta ethyltri.siloxane; 1 -hexyl-l ,1 ,3,3,5,5,5- heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1 , 1,3,3,5, 5-hepiamethyl-5-octyltrisiloxane; 1,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5- hepiamethyi-3-ociylirisiloxane, sold especially under the name Silsoft 034 by the company OSI; 1,1,1 ,3,5,5 ,5-hq5taraethyl-3~hexyltrisil.oxane (surface tension = 20.5 mN/m), sold especially under the name DC 2-1731 by the company Dow Coming; 1 ,1,3,3,5,5- hexamethyl- ,5-dipropyltrisilox.an.e; 3-(l -ethylbutyi)-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyUrisiloxane; 1,1 ,l ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-(1 -methyipent}4)†risiioxane; l ,5-diethyl-l ,l,3,3,5,5- hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1 _sl ₅I ,3,5,5,5~hei.)iamelhyl-3-(l.-methy1propyl)irisiioxane; 3-(1 ,1- dimethy!ethyr}-l ,l,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptameihylmsiloxane; 1 ,1, 1 ,5.5, 5-hexameihyl-3,3-bis(l- methylethyl)trisiloxane; l,l,l ,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl-l,5-his(l-rae&yIpropyl)trisiioxaiie; 1 ,5- bis( 1 ,1 -dimethyl ethyl)- 1,1 ,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiioxane; 3-(3,3-dmiethylbutyl)- 1,1,1 ,3 ,5 ,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane: 1. ,1 ,1 ,3 ,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-(3- niethylbutyl)i.risilox.ane; 1 ,1 , 1 ,3,5,5,5-heptameAyl-3-(3-raethylpeirtyl)trisiloxane;

1 J ,1₅3,5,5,5-heptamethyi-3-(2-methylpropyi)†risiIoxane; l-butyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5- hepiametliyltrisiloxane; l ,l,l.,3,5,5,5-heptamethyj-3-propyltrisiloxatie; 3-isohexyl- 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptaraetliy!irisiloxane; 1 ,3 ,5-triethyl- 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5-pentamethyltrisi!oxane; 3- butyl- 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5, 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 3 -tert-pentyl- 1,1,1,3,5,5,5- heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5 ,5-hexamethyi-3 ,3-dipropyltrisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl- l , l ,L5,5,5-hexaTnethylirisi.1oxane; 1 ,5-dibutyj-l ,l,3,3,5,5-hexametliyltrisiioxane;

1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexaethyi-3,3-dime&y siloxane; 3 ,3-dibutyl-l, 1 ,1,5,5,5- hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3-ethyl- 1. , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5,5-heptamethyltri siloxane; 3-heptyl- 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5- hepiaraethylirisiloxane and 1 -ethyl- 1 , 1 ,3 ,3 ,5,5 ,5-heptamethy!trisiioxane;

~ the following tetrasiloxanes: decametbyltetrasiloxane (surface tension = 18 mN/ra), sold especially under the name DC 200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning; l,l,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl-l,7-dipropyitetTasiloxane; 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,3,5,7,7,7- nonamethyl-5-(1.-methyle&yl)tetrasiloxaiie; 1 -butyl- 1 ,1 ,3,3,5,5,7,7,7- nonamethyltetrasiloxane: 3 ,5-diethyl- 1 ,1 ,1 ,3 ,5,7,7,7-octameth.yl tetrasiloxane; 1 ,3 ,5,7- ietraethyl-1 J ,3,5,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 3, 3,5, 5-tetraethyl-l ,l ,1 ,7,7,7- hexainethyltetrasiioxane; Ll,l,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonaro.ethyl-7-ph.enyltetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl- 1 , 1 ,1 ,5,5,7,7,7-oetamethyltetrasiloxane ; 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5- phenyltetrasiloxaiie;

- the following pentasiloxanes: dodecamethylpentasiloxane (surface tension ^:::

18.7 mN/m), sold especially under the name DC 200 Fluid 2 cSt by the company Dow Corning; 1 ,1 ,3,3 ,5,5,7,7,9,9-deeameth.yl-l ,9-dipropyipentasiloxane; 3,3,5, 5,7,7-hexaethyl- 1.1 ,1 ,9,9,9-hexameihylpentasiloxane; 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,3 ,5 ,7,7, ,9,9-undecaraethyl-5- phenylpentasiioxane: 1 -butyl-1 , 1,3,3,5,5,7,7 ,9,9,9-undecamethylpentasiloxane; 3,3- diethyl-1 ,.1 ,1 ,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethyipentasiloxane; 1 ,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl-l ,l,3,5,7,9,9- heptamethylpentasiloxane; 3,5,7-triethyl-l ,1 ,1 ,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyipentasiloxane and 1 , 1 , 1 -triethyl-3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonaraethyipentasiloxane;

the following hexasiioxanes: 1 -but l-LI, 3,3, 5, 5,7, 7,9,9,1 1 , 1 1 ,1 1 - tridecamethylhexasiioxane; 3,5, 7,9-teiraetbyl~l ,l ,1 ,3,5,7,9, 1 1 , 1 1 ,1 1- deeamethy!hexasiloxane and tetradecaniethyihexasiloxane.

- hexadecamethylheptasiloxane;

- octadecam ethyl oetasiloxane;

- eicosamethylnonasiioxane.

Among the silicones of formula (Π) that may be mentioned are:

- the following tetrasiloxanes: 2-[3,3,3-trimethyi-l ,l- bis[(trimethyisilyl)oxy]di.siloxanyl]ethyl; i,.l ,l ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-(2-meth.ylpropyl)-3- [(triraethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 3-{ l ,I

,l ,5,5,5-hexamethy]-3- [{trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 3 -butyl -1 ,1 , 1 ,5,5, 5-hexamethyl-3-

[(trimeihylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 1 ,1,1 ,5,5,5 -hexamethyl-3 -propyl -3 -

[(trim eihy 1 si 1 y 1 )oxy] irisi 1 oxane ; 3-ethyl- 1 ,1,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyf-3-

[(irimethylsilyljoxyjtrisiloxaiie; 1 ,1 ,1 ~lrieihyl~3,5,5,5~leiraxnethyl-3-

(trimeihylsiloxy'jtfisiloxane: 3-methyI-l , 1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-

[trimeihylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane: 3-[(dimethylphenylsilyl)oxy]- 1 ,1,1 ,3 ,5,5,5- hepiameth yltrisilox an ; 1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexameihyl-3-(2-meihy]pentyI)-3"

[(trimetliylsilyljoxyjirisiloxane; 1,1 ,1 ,5,5,5~hexaiBeihyl~3~(4-metliylpeniyl)-3-

[(irimeihylsilyljoxyjtrisiioxane; 3 -b ex yl - 1 , 1 , 1 , 5 , 5 , -hex am ei y 1 - 3 -

[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane and 1 , 1,1 , 3,5,5, 5~heptamethyl~3~

[( trimeth yl si 1 yl)oxy ] tri si lox an e ;

the following pentasiloxanes: 1,1,1 ,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-3- (trimethy 1 si 1 oxy)tetrasi lox an e and 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,3,7,7,7-octamedn4-5-pheny!-5-

[(trimeihylsilyl)oxy]ietrasiloxane;

- the following hexasiloxane: 1,1 ,1,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,1 1 ,11,1 l-tridecamethyl-3- [( rimethylsilyl)oxy]liexasiIoxane.

Among the silicones of formula (ΠΙ), meniion may be made of:

- 1 , ί ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl.-3,3-bis(trime

Use may also be made of other volatile silicone oils chosen from:

the following tetrasiloxanes: 2,2,8,8-tetramethyl-5~ [(pentamethyldisiloxanyl)methyl]- 3,7-dioxa-2,8-disilaiionane; 2,2,5,8,8-pentamethyl-5- [(tnmetliylsiJy )rnethoxy]-4,6-dioxa-2,5,8 risilar3onarje; l ,3-dimeihyl-i,3- bis[(irimethylsilyl)iriethyl j-1 ,3-disiloxanediol; 3-eibyl-l ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[3-

(trimelbylsiloxy)propyl] trisiloxane and ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexa.nieihyl~3-phenyl-3~

[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid);

- the following peniasiloxanes: 2,2,7,7,9,9,11,1 1, 16, 16~d.eearnethyl-3,8, 10,15- tetraoxa-2,7,9,1 1 ,16- peniasilaheptadeeane and the tetrakis[(irimeihylsilyl)methyl] ester of silicic acid;

the following hexasiloxanes: 3,5-diethyl-l,l. ,l ,7,7,7-hexametlvyl-3,5- bis[(tximethyisilyl)oxyJtetrasiloxane and 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,7,7,7-octameihyl-3,5- bis[(trimethylsiIyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane; the beptasiloxane: 1 ,1 ,1 ,3 ;7,7,7~heptametby!~3.5 ,5- iris [(triinethylsilyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane;

the following octasiloxanes: ,l,1 ,3,5,5,9,9,9-nonameihy]-3,7,7- iris [(trinietliylsil}d)oxy]pentasiloxane ; ,1,1 ,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,5,7- tris[(trimethyl8i1y{)oxy]pentasiIoxane and 1 ,1 ,1 ,7,7 J-hexamethyI-3,3,5,5- ietrakis[(triniethylsilyl)oxy]teirasiloxaiie.

Volatile silicone oils that may more particularly be mentioned include decamefchylcyclopmtasiloxane sold especially under die name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, dodecamelhylcyclohexasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-246 by the company Dow Corning, oc&amethyl trisiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cSt by the company Dow Corning, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Coming and DC-200 Fluid 5 cSt sold by the company Dow Coming, oetamethylcyciotetrasi!oxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, beptameihyletliyltrisiloxane, heptarnethylociyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

It should be noted that, among the abovenienlioned oils, the linear oils prove to be particularly advantageous. Non-volatile silicone oils

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^"6 m²/s) and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone oil may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

Among these silicone oils, two types of oil may be distinguished, according to whether or not they contain phenyl.

Representative examples of these non-volatile linear silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimetliicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with, functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Thus, non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include: - PDMSs comprising alky] or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,

- PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxy!, thiol and/or amine groups,

- poiyalkyiraethylsi.lox.anes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxy!, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenyl linear silicone oil.

The non-phenyl linear silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:

in which:

Ri , R.2, R5 and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R and R are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxy! radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy! radical or an amine radical,

11 and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound.

As non-volatile silicone oils that, may be used according to the invention, mention may he made of those for which:

- the substituents i to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents Ri to R₍, and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such thai the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Gaming, and the product sold under the name Wacker Beisil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,

- the substituents II: to R_& and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such thai the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents ¾ to ¾ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxy! group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO, 7 by the company Momeniive.

According to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention contains at least one phenyl silicone oil.

Representative examples of these non-volatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include:

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

R

R R

R— Si- "O

R Si O Si R

R R

R R Si O

R (I)

in which the groups R represent, independentl of each other, a methyl or a phenyl with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six,

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

R R R

_R^_si™™^₀™™__{si 0}_ si— R R R R (II) in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the said organopolystloxane comprises at leas three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organo-polysiloxanes.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

Ph Ph Ph

Me- -O -O- - Me

\ \ \

Ph Me (III)

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow" Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimeihy!-l, 1,3,5,5- pentaphenyitrisiioxane; INCi name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiioxane). The reference Dow Coming 55 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

Me Me

X- -5i~ -O- -Si- ^•O- Si— ^■X

Me

(IV)

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000 and X represents CH CH(C¾)(Ph).

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me is methyl and. Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyi dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsi! PD 1000 sold by the company Wacker,

According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethyl siloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

(VI)

in which:

- Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m-tn+q is between 1 and 100, Preferably, the sunt m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- j to R₆, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+ni is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R_t to R_ti, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched Cj-C₃o and especially Ci-Cj2 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical,

R{ to R_f, may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or ρ = 0 or i may apply- in. formula (VII).

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R is a C1-C30 aikyl radical an aryi radical or an aralkyl radical,

- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and

- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of formula (ΥΊΪΪ) and Rj to R_j0 defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C2-C20, in particular C3-C1 and more particularly C4-C10, or a monocyclic or polycyelic C₆-Ci4 and especially C10-C13 aryi radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryi and alkyl residues are as defined previously.

Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and R : to io may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl isopropyl, deeyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm^'Vs (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.

As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VHi), It is especially possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 i on! Rhdne-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from W acker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.

- the phenyl silicone oils correspondiiig to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

Ri , R₂, 5 and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryi radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy! radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/rnol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

The phenyl silicones that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention are those corresponding to formulae (ID, especially to formula (Hi), and (V) hereinabove.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from phenyl trimetbicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl -trimethylsiloxydi phenyl siloxanes, diphenyi dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimeihylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.

According to another embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention contains at least one silicone gum.

The silicone gum that may he used in the invention may be chosen from silicone gums with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 800 000 cenfistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^'6 m²/s), especially between 800 000 and 10 000 000 cSt, preferably between 1 000 000 and 500 000 cSt and preferably between 1 000 000 and 2 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone gum may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

The molecular mass of the silicone gums is generally greater than 350 000 g/mol, between 350 000 and 800 000 g/mol and preferably from 450 000 to 700 000 g/rnol

The silicone gum ma be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:

in which:

Ri , ₂, Rs and R₆ are, together or separately, an a!kyi radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R.3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxy! radical.,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hvdroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p being integers chosen such that the viscosity of the compound is greater than 800 000 cSt.

As silicone gums that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:

- the substituents R| to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hvdroxyl group, and n and p are such that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Mirasil C-DPDM by the company Bluestar;

- the substituents K_\ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hvdroxyl group, and n and p are such that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name SGM 36 by the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicones of the (polydimerhylsi!oxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) ^'type, such as SE63 sold by GE Bayer Silicones, polyidimefhylsiloxane)(diphenyl)~ (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic makeup and/or care composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium that may comprise the usual ingredients, as a function of the intended use of the composition.

Filler

As stated above, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic or inorganic filler,

Thus, a composition may comprise from 0.01% to 35% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight of fll!er(s) relative to its total weight.

Illustrations of these fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, Nylon (especially Orgasol) powder and polyethylene powder, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie) and silicone resin niicrobeads (Tospearls from the company Momentive Performance Materials, and especially the reference Tospearl 145 A, for example); and also mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention contains at least one filler that is capable of absorbing an oil.

in particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler with capacit}' for absorbing and/or adsorbing an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin),

This oil-absorbing filler may also advantageously have a BET specific surface area of greater than or equal to 300 m /g, preferably greater than 500 m /g and preferentially greater than 600 ra'v'g, and especially less than 1500 raVg.

The BET specific surface area is determined according to the BET (Brunauer- Emmet-Teller) method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (thus including micropores) of the powder.

The filler under consideration according to the invention is thus characterized in that it has an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, especially ranging from 1 ml/'g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 1.5 ml/g to 15 ml/g. It preferably has an oil uptake of gre ter than or equal to 2 ml/g, especially ranging from 2 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 2 ml/g to 15 ml/g.

This oil uptake, which corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and/or adsorbed by the filler, may he characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below,

Method for measuring the oil uptake of a pulverulent material:

The oil uptake of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022, it corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the pulverulent material, by measuring the wet point.

An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a. glass plate and isononyi isononanoate is then added d opwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoaie, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the filler using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoaie is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoaie and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on ihe glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

This oil-absorbing filler may be a mineral powder or an organic powder; it may be chosen from silica, polyarnide (Nylon®) powders, acrylic polymer powders, especially polymethyl methacry!ate powder, polymethyl methacrylate/ethyiene glycol diraethacrylate powder polyallyl methacrylate/ethyiene glycol dimethacrylate powder or ethylene glycol dimethacry!ate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder; powders of silicone elastomers obtained especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenicaliy unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl^' groups) in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The oil-absorbing filler may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

Examples of fillers with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ,5 mi/g are described below, with their oil uptake value measured according to the protocol defined previously.

Silica powders that may be mentioned include:

- porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names

Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 3,70 mi/g) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo; Silica Beads SB-700 by the company Miyoshi,

- polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 2.43 ml/g). - silica silylate powders, especially those sold under the name Dow Coming VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Panicles by the company Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 10.40 m!/g),

- amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Koho (oil uptake equal to 5.50 ml/g),

■· precipitated silica powders surface- treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated wit a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 3.98 ml/g).

Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:

- porous polymeihyl methaeryiate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 1.55 ml/g), Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 by the company Ganz Chemical,

- ethylene glycol dimethaeryl ate/1 auryl methaerylate copolymer powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Coming (oil uptake equal to 6.56 ml/g),

- polymeihyl methaerylate powders sold under the name Covabead® LH85 by the company Wackherr,

- polyallyl methaeryiate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold, under the names Polypore® L200 and Po!ypore® E200 by the company Amcol.

Polyaniicle powders that may be mentioned include:

- the nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 4000 by the company

Atochem,

- nyion-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 2,02 ml/g).

A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Gptimat 1430 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptake equal to 2.4 ml/g).

A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagei by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 2.14 ml/g).

The oil-absorbing filler that is particularly preferred is a silica powder and more particularly a silica powder with an oil uptake at least equal to 3.70 ml/g, and especially the products sold under the name Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass and under the name Dow Coming VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Coming.

The illler(s) that are especially capable of absorbing a liquid fatty phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may use at least one filler and at least one supramoleeular polymer in a po!ymer(s)/oil-absorbing fi!ler(s) weight ratio of greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.5 and better still greater than 2,

According to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention contains at least one filler with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g,

According to another embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention also contains at least one silicone filler,

Silicone filler

The silicone filler may be chosen from:

organopexy si! oxane powders coated with silicone resin; and pofyniethylsilsesquioxanc powders,

and a mixture thereof

The organopolysiloxane powder may especially he coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names SP- 100, KSP- 101, K.SP--102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-1 G5 by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the F CI name: vinyl dimethicone/meihicone silsesquioxane crosspo!ymer.

Polvmethylsilsesquioxane powders that may especially be mentioned, include silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Momentive Performance Materials, and especially under the reference Tospearl 145 A: and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a silicone filler chosen from orgariopolysiloxatte powders coated with silicone resin and polymethyl silsesquioxane powders. Preferably, a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular at least one pulverulent dyestuff.

The dyestuff is especially chosen from organic or mineral dyestuffs, especially such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with, a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

The term ''pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.

These pigments may be in the form of powder or of pigmentary paste. They may be coated or uneoated.

As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

In particular, the mineral pigments are chosen from iron oxides and titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may he made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO--A-

96/0S537.

The term ^"lake" means dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use,

The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be especially composed of particles comprising a mineral core, at least one binder for binding the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or non- iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in. their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs,

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Dnoehrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne). Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne): the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Coiorona) and Bronze (17353) (Coiorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Coiorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard, under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Coiorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone GOO (Geratone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemione); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the bine nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue ( 7433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water- soluble or iiposohible dyes. The term "dyes" should be understood as meaning compounds that are generally organic, which are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, p-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contai at least one materia] with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different than a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking an effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, therraochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to afford the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a novel effect in accordance with the invention.

The particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:

particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative, particles comprising a mono-material or nvulti -material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one coat with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of the said particles.

Among the metals thai may he present m the said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, An, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pi, Va, b, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, AL Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC* by the company Siberline and Metal ure* by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or ailoy mixtures such as the reference 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, the silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Go d from the company Eckart,

They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microgiass Metashine.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.

Examples of symmetrical in terference multilayer structures that may be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/Si0₂ Ai/$i0₂/Ai, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgFa Al/MgFj/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex: oSs/SiOa/Al/SiO^O ioSa; Ρ62θ3/8ίθ2/Α1/8ίθ2/Ρ¾θ3, and Fe2Q3/Si02 F ¾ 5iQ2/Fe;?03, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoSa/SiOa/rnica- ide/Si0₂ MoS2; Fe203 Si02/mica-oxide Si0₂ Fe203; TiCVSK 'TiOo and T1O2/AI2O3/T1O2; SnO/Ti0 /Si0₂/Ti0₂/SnO; F¾0₃/SiGyFe₂Q3

SnO/mi∞/Ti0₂/Si0₂ Ti0₂/mica^/SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name irona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Slimmer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various coats, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the

structure, the colour changes from green-golden to red-grey for Si<¾ layers of 320 to 350 m; from red to golden for S1O₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green tor Sii¾ layers of 410 to 420 nm: from copper to red for SiQ₂ layers of 430 to 440 nm.

Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may be mentioned include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter,

Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.

Preferably, the amount of dyestuffs in a composition according to the invention is between 0.01% and 40% by weight and especially between. 0.1 % and 30% by weight, or even between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solid fatty substance especially chosen from waxes and/or pasty fatty substances.

Preferably, the amount of pasty substance in the makeup and/or care composition according to the invention is between 0.5% and 50% by weight, especially from 1 % to 40% by weight or even 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Waxes

According to a first embodiment, the composition is free of wax.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one wax. According to this embodiment, the amount of wax(es) in the makeup and/or care composition according to the invention is between 0,5% and 30% by weight, especially from 1 % to 20% by weight or even 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. · The term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which, may be up to 200°C. The waxes may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candeiilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, macrocrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made especially of hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1, 1 , 1 -trimethylol propane) teirastearate. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and flixoro waxes. The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esteri tied with cetyl alcohol may also be used.

According to a first, embodiment, the composition is free of pasty fatty substances.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. According to this embodiment, preferably, the amount of pasty fatty substance in the makeup and/or care composition according to the invention is between 0.5% and 30% by weight, especially from 1 % to 20% by weight or even 2% to 15% by- weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

The term "pasty fatty substance" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20°C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa and preferably from 0.002 to 0,4 MPa. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin, A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin. Mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of: - lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin,, lanolin esters such as isopropyl ianolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, for instance poiydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses, · polydimethylsiloxanes containing side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon, atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, especially olefin homopolymers: olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C-8-C30 alkyi group: homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters containing Cg-Cao alkyl groups; ho opo ymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers containing Cg-Cjo alkyl groups:

- Hposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more

C -C ioo and preferably C2-C50 diols; and especially copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with long-chain Q-C30 alkvlene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or the propylene oxide to the alkvlene oxides in the copolymer is 5/95 to 70/30;

- polyol ethers chosen from polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropyiene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof;

- esters and polyesters; and especially (i) esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxy! groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12- hydroxystearic acid; (ii) phytosterol esters, (iii) pentaerythritol esters; (iv) esters formed from at least one alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and from a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid; (v) non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or poiycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, (vi) polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a poiycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester; (vii) aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid containing especiall 4 to 30 carbon atoms. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and 1 to 20 hydroxy! groups; (viii) aliphatic esters of esters chosen from the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (hydrogenated castor oil mono-, di- or triisostearate).

The pasty compound may also be of plant origin. Mention may be made especially of isomenzed jojoba oil, such as irans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil; orange wax, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, cocoa butter and mango oil.

Aqueous phase

A composition according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase, which may represent 0% to 80% by weight, especially 1% to 70% by weight or even 3% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This aqueous phase may be formed essentially from water, or may comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible solvent (miseibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) chosen especially from monoaleohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and Cr-C₄ aldehydes, and mixtures thereof

However, as stated above, the compositions under consideration according to the invention are advantageously anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less tha .1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "anhydrous'^'' especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition. Swfac antts)

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant, which may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially 0.5% to 8% by weight, or even 1 % to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The surfactant ma be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, eationic and nonionic, preferably nonionic, surfactants. Mention may especially be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25°C, as mentioned below, for instance:

- saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearates, sucrose coco tc and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof;

- fatty acid esters, especially of C C2 and preferably of C16- 22, and of polyol, especially of glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate and glyceryl ricinoleate;

- lecithins, such as soybean lecithins;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropyienated ethers (which may comprise 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C C24 and preferably Cj 2-Ct,_¾ alcohols) such as stearyl alcohol oxyethylene ether containing two oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-2);

- silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copoiyols and alkyldimethicone copoiyols, for example the mixture of cyclornethicoiie dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning;

b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, for instance:

- saccharide esters and ethers such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, for instance Montanov 68 f om SEPPIC;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropyienated glycerol ethers, which may comprise

1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropyienated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units) of fatty alcohols, especially of Cg-C₂4 and preferably of Cu-Cjs, such as stearyl alcohol oxyethylene ether containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20), cetearyl alcohol oxyethylene ether containing 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-30) and the oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C[₂-Ci5 fatty alcohols comprising seven oxyethylene units (C12-15 Pareth-7); - esters of a tatty acid, especially of C C ₄ and preferably of C16-C-22, a d of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) -(which may comprise 1 to 150 oxyethylerte units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate;

- esters of a fatty acid, especially of Cg~C₂4 and preferably of C16-C22, and ^'of oxyediylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylerse and/or oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units: glyceryl stearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, glyceryl oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, glyceryl isostearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units and glyceryl laurate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units;

- esters of a fatty acid, especially of C8-C24 and preferably of C16-C22, and of oxyethylenaied and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which, may comprise -from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance polysorbate 20 and polysorbate 60;

- dimethicone copolyol, especially the product sold under the name Q2-5220® from Dow Coming;

- dimethicone copolyol. benzoate, such as the products sold under the names Finsolv SLB 101 ® and 201® from Finetex:

- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates, which are copolymers formed from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates.

c) anionic surfactants such as:

^■· salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, especially amine salts, such as triethanolamirse stearate or 2-arnino-2-methyipropane- 1 ,3 -diol stearate;

- polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially animated salts or salts of alkali metals, and mixtures thereof;

- phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as DEA oletii-lO phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda) or monopotassium monoeetyl phosphate;

- sulfosuccinates such as di sodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodiun ricinoleamido MEA suifosuecmate;

- alky! ether sulfates such as sodium iauryl ether sulfate; - isethionat.es;

- acylglutamates such as Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate (Amisoft HS21 R® from Ajinomoto) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS^'l ^'i PF® from Ajinomoto);

- soybean derivatives, tor instance potassium soyate;

- citrates, for instance glyceryl stearate citrate;

- proline derivatives, for instance sodium palmitoyi proline or the mixture of sodium palmitoyi sarcosinate, magnesium palTnitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyi proline (Sepifeei One from SEPPiC);

- lactylat.es, for instance sodium stearoyl laetylate;

- sarcosinates, for instance sodium palmitoyi sarcosinate or the 75/25 mixture of stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine;

- sulfonates, for instance sodium Q4 7 alkyl-sec-sulfonaie;

- giycmates, for instance sodium cocoyl glyeinate.

d) cationic surfactants such as:

- alkyiiniidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylirnidoniiim ethosulfate,

- ammonium salts such as (C12-30 alkyl)tri(Ci. alkyS )ammoni m halides, for instance N,N,N-triinethyi-l-docosai\aminiun.i chloride (or belientrimonium chloride);

e) amphoteric surfactants, for instance N acyl amino acids, such as N- aikylaminoacetates and di sodium coeoamphodiacetate, ami amine oxides such as stearamine oxide..

Additiveig

A makeup, and/or care composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent usually used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, thickeners, film-forming agents that are especially hydrophobic, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, eeramides; cosmetic active agents; peptizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, propeliants, hydrophilic or lipophilic, film- forming or non-film-forming polymers; lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents. The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.0.1 % and 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the constituents of the composition such that the advantageous properties associated with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.

Thickeners

Thus, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a thickener.

The thickener may be chosen from:

- organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentoniies, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified heciorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox,

- hydrophobic fumed silica. Such silicas are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R.812® by the company Degussa and Cab-G-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot, and under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.

The thickener may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.4% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer, which, is i particular hydrophobic,

A cosmetic composition for making up and/or earing for the skin of the lips according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by wei ght and even more preferentiall y from 0.5% to 15% by weight of hydrophobic film- forming polymer(s).

This hydrophobic film-forming organic polymer may be a polymer chosen from the group comprising: po!yarnide silicone block polymers, block emylenic polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiioxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethyl siloxane groups, silicone resins (T resin. MQ resin) and lipodispersible polymers in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, and mix lures thereof,

a) Silicone resins

According to one embodiment variant a composition according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one silicone resin.

As silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, use may he made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type. Q resins:

As examples of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysihcates of formula

(MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group Rl represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an aikyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group.

- As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trirnethyl siioxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SRI 000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or under the name F-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 or DC 593 by the company Dow Coming.

- As silicone resins comprising MQ siioxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropykhmethy!si!oxysilieaie (Silshine 1 51 sold by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described especially in patent US 5 817 302.

T resins;

Examples of these silicone resins of type T that may be mentioned include the polysilsesqiiioxanes of formula (RSiOj/2)_x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that, the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, the said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si-OH end groups.

Polyinethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold:

- by the company Wacker under the reference Resin M , such as Belsil PMS K: polymer comprising Cl¾Si0.y2 repealing units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of

units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/.mol, or

- by the company Shm-Etsu under the reference R220L, which are composed of units T of formula CH:,SiQ_{3 2} and have Si-OH (silanoi) end groups, under the reference KR242A, which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups, or alternatively under the reference KR251 comprising 88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups,

MQT^' resins:

Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are those mentioned in document US 5 1 10 890.

A preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resins. Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are especially the resins described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

Preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from the group comprising: a) a resin, of MQ type, chosen especially from (i) a!kyl siloxysilicates, which may be irimethyl siloxysilicates, of formula [(Rl)₃SiO ;/ ]x(Si0₄ ;;)_v, in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such thai the group R l represents a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxy! group, and preferably is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethyi siloxysilicate, and/or

b) a resin of T type, chosen especially from the polysilsesquioxanes of formula £ RSiO; in which x is greater than 100 and the group R is an alkyl group containing from I to 10 carbon atoms, for example a methyl group, the said polysi lsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si-OH end groups, and/or

c) a resin of MQT type, especially of MQ T-propyl type, which may comprise units (i) (R l₃SiO:_/2)_a, (ii) (R2₂SiO?,^<2)_b, (iii) (R3SiO_M)_c. and (iv) (Si0 /₂)d ,

with Rl , R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical, especially alkyl, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alky! radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

a being between 0,05 and 0,5,

b being between 0 and 0.3,

c being greater than 0,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

a + h + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,

on condition that more than 40 mol% of the groups R3 of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 30% by weight and better still ranging from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

b) Lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of noiv-a ucou:- dispersions of polymer particles, also known as NADs

According to another embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one polymer chosen from lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, also known as NADs.

Non-aqueous dispersions of hydrophobic film-forming polymer that may be used include dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylemc polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid oily phase:

either in the form of ethylenie polymer particles dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles, as described especially in document WO 04/055 081 ,

or in the form of surface-stabilized -particles dispersed . in the liquid fatty phase. The dispersion of surface-stabilized polviner particles may be manufactured as described in document EP-A-749 747. The polymer particles may in particular be surface- stabilized by means of a stabilizer that may be a block polymer, a grafted polymer and/or a random polymer, alone or as a. mixture. Dispersions of film-fonning polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizers, are especially described in documents EP-A-748 746, EP-A-923 928 and EP-A-930 060, the content of whieli is incorporated by reference into the present patent application.

Advantageously, dispersions of ethylenic polymer particles dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the said particles are used.

Examples of polymers of NAD type that may he mentioned more particularly include acrylic dispersions in isododecane, for instance Mexomer PAP® (acrylic copolymer as a dispersion in isododecane (25%) with p rene/isoprene copolymer) sold by the company Chimex.

c) Block ethyle ic copolymer

According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least a first block with a glass transitio temperature (Tg) of greater than or equal to 40°C and being totally or partly derived from one or more first monomers, which are such that, the hornopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperamre of greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least a second block with a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°€ and being derived totally or partly from one or more second monomers, which are such that the hornopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, the said first block and the said second block being connected together via a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of the said first constituent monomers of the first block and at least one of the said second constituent monomers of the second block, and the said block copolymer having a poiydispersity index Ϊ of greater than 2.

The block polymer used according to the invention thus comprises at least one first block and at least one second block and is prepared exclusively from monofunctional monomers. This means that the block ethylenic polymer used according to the present invention does not contain any multifunctional monomers, which make it possible to break the linearity of a polymer so as to obtain a branched or even crosslinked polymer, as a function of the content of multifunctional monomer. The polymer used according to the invention does not, either, contain any maerornonomers (the term "macromonomer" means a monofunctional monomer containing pendent groups of polymeric nature, and preferably having a molecular mass of greater than 500 g/mol, or alternatively' a polymer comprising on only one of its ends a polymerizabie (or ethylenieal!y unsaturated) end group), which are used in the preparation of a grafted polymer.

The term "'block"' polymer means a polymer comprising at least two different blocks and preferably at least three different blocks.

The term "ethylenic" polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of ethylenieally unsaturated monomers.

It is pointed out that, in the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the terms "first"⁵ and "second" blocks do not in any way condition the order of the said blocks in the structure of the polymer.

The first block and the second block of the polymer used in the invention may be advantageously mutually incompatible.

The term "mutually incompatible blocks" means that the mixture formed from a polymer corresponding to the first block and from a polymer corresponding to the second block is not miscible in the polymerization solvent that is in major amount by weight for the block polymer, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10° Pa), for a content of the mixture of the said polymers of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of the said polymers and of the said polymerization solvent, it being understood that:

i) the said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and that

ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second blocks has an average (weight-average or number-average) molecular mass equal to that of the block polymer ± 15%,

In the case of a mixture of polymerization solvents, and in the event that two or more solvents are present in identical mass proportions, the said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least, one of them. Needless to say, in the case of a polymerization performed in a single solvent, this solvent is the solvent that is in major amount.

The block polymer according to the invention comprises at least a first block and at least a second block that are connected together via an intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. The intermediate segment (also known as the intermediate block) has a glass transition temperature Tg thai is between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second blocks.

The intermediate segment is a block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer allowing these blocks to be "compatibilized".

Advantageously, the intermediate segment comprising at least, one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the block polymer is a statistical polymer.

Preferably, the intermediate block is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first block and of the second block.

The term "essentially" means at least 85%, preferably at least 90%, better still 95% and even better still 100%.

The block polymer according to the invention is advantageously a film-forming block ethylenic polymer. The term "ethylemc" polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers. The term "film -forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-foiming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, especially on keratin materials.

Preferentially, the polymer according to the invention does not comprise any silicon atoms in its backbone, The term "backbone"⁵ means the main chain of the polymer, as opposed to the pendent side chains.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not water-soluble, i.e. the polymer is not soluble in water or i a mixture of water and linear or branched lower monoaleohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n- propanoL without modifying the pH, at the solids content of at least 1 % by weight, at room temperature (25°C).

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not an elastomer.

The polydispersity index of the polymer of the invention is greater than 2, for example ranging from 2 to 9. Preferably, it is greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2,5 to 8, and better still greater than or equal to 2.8 and especially ranging from 2,8 to 6,

The polydispersity index Ϊ of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight- average molecular mass Mw to the number-average molecular mass Mn. The weight- average molar mass (M ) and number-average molar mass (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid, chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refraetometric detector).

The weight-average mass (Mw) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 300 000; it ranges, for example, from 35 000 to 200 000 and better still from 45 000 to 150 000 g/moi.

The number-average mass (Mn) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 70 000; it ranges, for example, from 10 000 to 60 000 and better still from 12 000 to 50 000 g/mol

The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C has, for example, a Tg ranging from 40 to 150°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, for example ranging from 50°C to 120°C and better still greater than or equal to 6()°C, for example ranging from 60^cC to 120°C.

The glass transition temperatures indicated for the first and second blocks may be theoretical Tg values determined from the theoretical Tg values of the constituent monomers of each of the blocks, which may be found in a reference manual such as the Polymer Handbook, 3rd Edition, 1989, John Wiley.

The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C may be derived totally or partially from one or more monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40°C. This block may also be referred to as a "rigid block".

When this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from only one type of monomer for which the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer is greater than or equal to 40^' C.

in the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 40°C. The copolymer may comprise, for example: - monomers which are such thai the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg values of greater than or equal, to 40°C, for example a Tg ranging from 40°C to 150°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, for example ranging from 50°C to 120°C and better still greater than or equal to 60°C, for example ranging from 60°C to 120°C, and

- monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg values of less than 40°C, chosen from monomers with a Tg of between 20°C and 40°C and/or monomers with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, for example a Tg ranging from -100°C to 20°C, preferably less than 15°C, especially ranging from -80°C to 15°C and better still less than 10°C, for example ranging from ~50°C to 0°C, as described later. The monomers and the proportions thereof are preferably chosen such that the glass transition temperature of the first block is greater than or eq ual to 40°C,

The first monomers whose homopolymers have a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 4()°C are chosen, preferably, from the follo wing monomers, also known as the main monomers:

- die metha.eryiat.es of formula CH₂ = C(CH₃)-CGOR _;

in which R_; represents a linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a. metlvyi, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or Rj represents a €4 to Cj₂ cycloalkyl group, preferably a Cg to C12 cycloalkyl, such as isobornyi metbacrylate,

- the acrylates of formula€¾ = CH-COOR-)

in which R₂ represents a C₄ to C:₂ cycloalkyl group such as an isobornyi group or a tert-hutyl group,

- the (m.etb)aerylarmdes of formula:

in which R₇ and Rg, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C| to C:₂ alkyl group such as an n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyi group; or R₇ represents H and Rg represents a 1,1 - dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and. - R' denotes H or methyl. Examples of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, -isopropylacrylamide, N,N- dimethylacryl amide and IN ,N-dibuty ! acrylamide,

- and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained from: i) at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2=CH-COOR2 in which R₂ represents a € to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a Cg to C12 cycloalkyl, such as isobornyl,

ii) and at least one rnethacryiate monomer of formula C¾ ^:::: C(CH3)-CQQR'₂ in which RS represents a C4 to C-.-? cycloalkyl group, preferably a Cg to Q2 cycloalkyl, such as isobornyl.

Preferably, R₂ and R'₂ represents, independently or simultaneously, an isobornyl group.

The first block may be obtained exclusively from the said acrylate monomer and from the said rnethacryiate monomer. Preferably, these monomers are in mass proportions of between 30/70 and 70/30, preferably between 40/60 and 60/40, especially about 50/50.

The proportion of the first block advantageously ranges from 20% to 90%, better still, from 30% to 80% and even better still from 60% to 80% by weight of the polymer.

According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained by polymerization of isobornyl rnethacryiate and isobornyl acrylate.

Seconds block with a glass traasitioa temjgera^

The second block advantageously has a glass transition temperature Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, tor example, a Tg ranging from -100°C to 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 15°C, especially ranging from -80°C to 15°C and better still less than or equal to 1 G°€, for example ranging from - 100°C to 10°C, especially ranging from -30°C to 10°C.

The second block is totally or partially derived from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transitio temperature of less than or equal to 20°C. The monomer with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C {known, as the second monomer) is preferably chosen from the following monomers:

- the acryiates of formula C¾ = CH-COOR¾

R3 representing a linear or branched Q to C12 unsuhstittited a!kyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more heieroaioms chosen from O, N and S are optionally intercalated,

^■■ the methacrylates of formula C¾ = C{CH₃)-CQOR4

R4 representing a linear or branched C₆ to C12 unsubstituted alky! group, in which one or more heiero atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated;

- the vinyl esters of form ula R5-CO-O-CH === C 2

in which R₅ represents a linear or branched C4 to C12 alkyl group;

- ethers of vinyl alcohol and of a€4 to C;₂ alcohol,

- N-(Q to C=2)afkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide,

- and mixtures thereof,

The preferred monomers with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C are isobutyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or mixtures thereof in all proportions.

Each of the first and second blocks may contain in small proportion at least one constituent monomer of the other block.

Each of the first and/or second blocks may comprise, in addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other monomers known as additional monomers, which are different from the main monomers mentioned above.

The nature and amount of this or these additional, monomer(s) are chosen such, that the block in which they arc present has the desired glass transition temperature. This additional monomer is chosen, for example, from {meth)acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The additional monomer may represent 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the polymer. According to one embodiment, the polymer of the invention does not contain any additional monomer.

According to one embodiment, the first block does not comprise any additional monomer. ^■ According to a preferred embodiment, the second block comprises acrylic acid as additional monomer.

Preferably, the polymer Of the invention comprises at least isobomyl acryiate and isobomyl methacryiate monomers in the first block and isobutyl acryiate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block.

Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobomyl acryiate and isobomyl methacryiate monomers in equivalent weight proportion in the first block and isobutyl acryiate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Advantageously, the first block represents 70% by weight of the polymer,

Preferably, the acrylic acid represents 5% by weight of the polymer.

The block copolymer may advantageously comprise more than 2% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, and especially from 2% to 15% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% by weight, in particular from 4% to 15% by weight or even from 4% to 10% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, relative to the total weight of the said copolymer.

Preferably, the block copolymer comprises from 50% to 80% by weight of isobomyl methacrylate/acrylate, from 10% to 30% by weight of isobutyl acryiate and from 2% to 1 % by weight of acrylic acid.

Intermediate segment

The intermediate segment (also known as the intermediate block) connects the first block and the second block of the polymer used according to the present invention. The intermediate segment results from the polymerization:

i) of the first monomer(s), and optionally of the additional monomerfs), which remain available after their polymerization to a maximum degree of conversion of 90% to form the first block,

ii) and of the second monomer(s), and optionally of the additional monomer(s), added to the reaction mixture.

The form a don of the second block is initiated when the first monomers no longer react or are no longer incorporated into the polymer chain either because they are all consumed or because their reactivity no longer allows them to be. Thus, the intermediate segment comprises the first available monomers, resulting from a degree of conversion of these first monomers of less than or equal to 90%, during the introduction of the second monomer(s) during the synthesis of the polymer.

The intermediate segment of the block polymer is a statistical polymer (which may also be referred to as a statistical block). This means that it comprises a statistical distribution of the first monomer(s) and of the second monomer(s) and also of the additional monomer(s) that may be present.

Thus, the intermediate segment is a statistical block, as are the first block and the second block if they are not hotnopolymers (i.e. if they are both formed from at least two different monomers).

The block efhyienic copolymer according to the invention is prepared by free radical polymerization, according to the techniques that are well known tor this type of polymerization, in particular, it may he prepared according to the process described in pa tent application FR 0 953 625, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

Preferably, the block ethylenic copolymer is present in the composition in an active materia! content ranging from 0.1% to 60%, better still from 0.5% to 50%, better still from 1% to 30% and even better still from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is possible to perform a step of total or partial removal of the said volatile oil or solvent (conventionally isododecane). This is then performed in particular by distdiation, optionally under vacuum, and optional addition of non-volatile hydrocarbon- based ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar inass of less than 650 g mol, such as octyklodeeyi neopentanoate (especially 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate).

This step is performed at. elevated temperature and optionally under vacuum to distil off a maximum amount of volati le synthesis solvent, and is known to those skilled in the art.

d) Polvami.de silicone block polymer According to another embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention comprises, as Ivydrophobic film-fomiing polymer, at least one polyamide silicone block polymer, also known as a silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyaraides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and better still ten repeating units.

The silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxatie type, for instance those described in documents US-A- 5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441 , US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680. According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:

(1 ) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or

(2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or brandies.

According to one variant of the invention, a polymer may also be used comprising at least one unit of formula (111) or (IV):

-

(ffl)

or

(ΓΥ) in which:

1 ) R⁴, R\ R^b and R^?, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to C 0 hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,

C-6 to do aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more€_; to C₄ alkyl groups,

- polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,

2) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Cj to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms;

3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated C; to C50 linear or branched alkyl ene, arylene, eycloalkylene, alkyl arylene or aryi alkyl ene divalent group, which, may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substitueiit one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, (¼ to C₈ cycloalkyl, d to C 0 alkyl, C₅ to do aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 Cj to €3 alkyl, C_{ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl and Ci to d, aminoalkyl groups, or

4 Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which:

T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C₃ to C₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

R⁸ represents a linear or branched Ci to o alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane. thiocarbairiate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chai of the polymer: and 5) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 lo 200.

According to the invention, 80% of the groups R⁴, R^J, R" and R⁷ of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifTuoropropy groups.

According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:

a) linear Q to C₂o and preferably Cj to Cjo alkylene groups,

b) branched C3.3 to C_$ alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsarurations,

c) CVC₀ cycloalkylene groups,

d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more Cj to C40 alkyl groups,

e) C j to C20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) C: to C20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxy!, C3 to Cg eycloalkane, C_\ to C₃ hydroxyalkyl and C_; to C$ aJkylamine groups,

polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

in which R⁴, R⁵, R°,-R^;, T and m are as defined above, and

h) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

In these polyamides of formula (III) .or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and especially from 50 to 200, and n ranges in particular from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25,

X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms, and

Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched, or which may comprise rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.

In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following components:

1) one to five amide, urea, ureihane or earbamate groups,

2) a C₅ or Q; cycloalkyl group, and

3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different Ci to C alkyl groups.

In formulae (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group consisting of:

a hydroxyl group,

a (¾ to€_¾ cycloalkyl group,

one to three C_¾ to C₄o alkyl groups,

a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C_t to C₃ alkyl groups,

a Cj to

hydroxyalkyl group, and

a C-: to C(, aminoalkyl group.

Irs these formulae (III) a d (IV), Y may also represent:

in which R^'~ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:

_R 1 3

-(CH₂)_a . C (CH₂)_b . (CH₂)_a _N { ¾),, _

in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R^f is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R^", R⁵, R⁶ and R .

In formulae ( III} and (IV), R⁴, R^" , R*³ and R⁷ preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C<. to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C₂H₅, nC₃H₇ or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV).

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polydim thylsiloxane block polymer of general formulae (III) and (IV) with an index m of about 15,

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (ΠΓ) in which m ranges from 5 to 100, in particular from 10 to 75 and even more particularly is about 15; even more preferably, R \ R: , R° and R⁷ independently represent a linear or branched Cj to C_4fi alkyl group, preferably a group CH3, C2H5, nC₃H₇ or isopropyl in formula (III),

As examples of silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5 981 680, According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polydiniethylsiloxane block polymer of general fomvulae (III) and (IV) with an index m of about 100.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and even more particularly is about 100; even more preferably, R⁴, R-¹, R⁶ and R' independently represent, a linear or branched C<. to C4.3 alky! group, preferably a group C¾, C2H5, η¾Η or isopropyl in formula (III).

As examples of silicone polymers that may preferably be used according to this embodiment, mention may be made of the silicone polyamides sold by the company Dow Coming under the name DC 2-81 79 (DP 100).

According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III, preferably in which the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent methyl groups, one from among .X and Y represents an alkylene group of 6 carbon atoms and the other represents an alkylene group of 1 1 carbon atoms, n representing the degree of polymerization, DP, of the polymer.

By way of example of such silicone polyamides, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dow Coming under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 1.5), the INCi name of which is Nylon-61. i/dimethicone copolymer.

e) Vinyl polymer comprising at least one earbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit

According to one particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one vinyl polymer comprising at least one earbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit.

The vinyl polymer^' may especially ha ve a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a earbosiloxane dendrimer structure.

The term ''earbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a structure with branched groups of high molecular masses, the said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone. Such earbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-sil ! alkylene copolymer in the laid-open Japanese patent application Kokai 9-171 1 54. According to one preferred mode, the vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer used comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

According to one embodiment, the vinyl polymer also comprises at least one iluoro organic group.

5 The vinyl polymers represented by the formulae presented below are preferable:

€Η₂ ^Κ:ΌΟ-€¾€¾ (CF₂)₅F CH₂ JHCOO-CH₂C¾ (C1¾F

a¾^«CCH₃COO-C5¾CH2 <Cf¾)$ F. CH₃ X¾CQO~C¾C¾ (CF₂)_S F.

CH₂-CHCOO-C¾CF₃. CH₂-CCH₃COO-C¾CF₃

The vinyl polymers represented by the formulae presented below are particularly preferable;

C¾r-CHCQ€K¾CF_3l CH2-CCH₃COO-CH2CF3.

ΐ A

.1 v

According to one preferred embodiment, vinyl polymers grafted within the meaning of the present invention are conveyed in an oil, which is preferably volatile, chosen from silicone oils and/or hydrocarbon-based oils.

According to one particular embodiment, die silicone oil may be 15 cyclopentasiloxane.

According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon-based oil may be isododecane.

Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be particularly suitable for use in the present invention are the polymers sold 0 under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101 , TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID

(TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Coming.

Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit thai may be used in a composition of the invention is an acryiate/polytrimethyi si!oxymethacrylate copolymer, especially the product sold in 5 isododecane under the name Dow Coming FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate by the company

Dow Coming;

_■fL _..Copplymers comprising carboxylate groups and puiyd hncs hyi Soxanc In the present patent application, the expression "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic (acid or ester) monomers, and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

In the present patent application, the term "carboxylic monomer'" means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers, Thus, the monomer (a) may he chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ramaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, esters thereof and mixmres of these monomers. Esters that may be mentioned include the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, ma!eate, fumarate, itaconate and/or crdtonate. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in ester form are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably O. -C24 and better still C₁-C22 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, the alkyl radical preferably being chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexy radicals, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and methyl, ethyl, stearyl , butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methacrylate, and mixture thereof.

In the present patent application, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also known as organopolysiloxanes and abbreviated as PDMS) denotes, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ==SiQSr≤), comprising trimethyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The PDMS chains that may be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, i.e. the PD S may contain, for example, a polymerizable radical group on the two ends of the chain or one polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and one trimethyl sil yl end group on the other end of the chain. The radical -polymerizable group may especially be an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group C¾ = CRj - CO - O - R2, in which Ri represents a hydrogen or a methyl group, and R₂ represents -CEfe-, - (CH₂):r with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -C¾--CH(CH₃}--CH2- , ~CH2~CH₂-0' H₂~CR^ -C¾-CH_?- 0-CH₂-CH2-CH(Ci¾)~CI¾~, -Cii2-CH2-0-CH₂ CH2-0-CH2-CH2-CH2^~.

The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by tree-radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizabie radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in documents US-A-5 061 481 and US-A- 5 219 560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200 000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100 000,

The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in its native form or in dispersed form in a solvent such as Sower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).

As copolymers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate containing polydimethyisiioxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. As copolymers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names ΚΡ-56Ϊ (CTFA name: acry!ates/dimethicone), P-541 in which the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight, in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: acryiates/dimefhicone and isopropyl alcohol), and KP-545 in which the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane). According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561 is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being about 30°C, Mention may also be made of the grafted copolymer of po!yaerylic acid and dimethylpolysiloxane dissolved in isododecane, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550.

A makeup and/or care composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, especially an οίΐ-ϊη-water emulsion (0/W), water-in oil emulsion (W/O) or multiple emulsion (W/OAV or polyol/O/W or O W/O), or in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, a two-phase or multi-phase lotion, a spray, a powder or a paste.

As stated above, advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are anhydrous.

A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.

APPLICATION

As above-mentioned, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention coinprises a step of acceleration of the drying of die deposit, simultaneously with or subsequent to its application and more particularly by exposure of said deposit to blown air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 °C.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the steps consisting in:

i) applying to die said skin and/or the said lips a composition according to the invention; and

ii) artificially accelerating die drying of the deposit made in step i) simultaneously with or subsequent to its application, by exposure of said deposit to blown, air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 °C.

Advantageously, the acceleration of the drying of a deposit of a composition formed according to the method of the present invention makes it possible to improve the quality of the resulting film, in particular in terms of uniformity and staying power of the film.

In addition, such a process makes it possible advantageously to decrease the drying time of the deposit. For the purpose of the invention, the drying time denotes the period of time necessary for the layer of coating to form a dry film. Advantageously, this drying time under consideration may be less or equal to 2 minutes, From this period of 2 minutes onward, the film must be dry and satisfy the properties mentioned above, in particular in terms of colour fastness. For example, for certain compositions according to the invention, an optimum staying-power value may be obtained after only 1 minute, or even 30 seconds, of drying in accordance with the invention,

The temperature of the blown, air according to the invention is that felt, on the skin or the lips. According to one particular embodiment, this blown air in contact with the lips or the skin may have a temperature ranging from 36 to 41 °C, According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a packaging and application kit or assembly, comprising a reservoir containing a composition according to the invention, a device for applying said composition to the skin or the lips, and a means intended for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed on application of said composition to the skin or the lips, and in particular capable of providing blown air preferably having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 °C.

Characteristics of a packaging and application kit or assembly according to the invention will emerge on reading the following description, given solely by way of nonlimiting example and with reference to the appended figures, in which:

- figure 1 represents, schematically, in perspective, a packaging and application assembly in accordance with the invention, suitable for a composition formulated i the form of a wand;

- figure 2 represents, schematically, in perspective, another packaging and application assembly in accordance with the invention, suitable for a composition formulated in the form of a gloss.

The reservoir containing a composition according to the invention may be coupled to the device for applying said composition, so as to form, an assembly, which is known and commonly used in the Hp makeup field as denoted by general numerical reference 1 in the appended figures.

This assembly I may be suitable for the storage and the application of a cosmetic composition formulated in solid form, more specifically in the form of a wand as represented schematically in figure 1, or for a composition formulated in fluid form, of "gloss" type, as represented schematically in figure 2.

This type of assembly, well known to those skilled in the art, is not subsequently described in greater detail. Of course, all the possible and known variants for this assembly of the packing and application kit or assembly according to the present inven ion are also part of the invention.

According to one particular embodiment, the means intended for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition, denoted overall in the appended figures by the general numerical reference 2, is integrated into the assembly comprising the reservoir and the device for application, as described above.

In particular, it may be placed at the end of assembly 1 , opposite the cosmetic composition output or application end.

According to another embodiment, the means intended for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition is distinct from this assembly.

In particular, the means for accelerating drying of the coating film may comprise a heating means, including in particular a beat source.

The term "beat source" is intended to mean more particularly a heating means known to those skilled in the art which is suitable for drying the layer deposited at the surface of the skin or the lips during the application of a composition for coating keratin materials.

This heat source may consist of thermal resistances 3 represented in figures 1 and 2, intended to heat the air.

A heating means according to the invention is understood as being any device capable of beating the skin or lips to a temperature suitable for drying of the deposit formed by the application of a composition as described above. This heating means is advantageously suitable for generating a temperature at the level of the coating film deposited on tbe skin or the lips ranging from 35°C to 45°C, more particularly from 36°C to 41 °C.

Moreover, a means for accelerating the drying of the coating film according to die invention may also comprise a means suitable for generating blown air, for example in the direction I represented on figures 1 and 2,

This means may be a mini-fan 4 represented in figures 1 and 2,

According to one particular embodiment, a means for accelerating drying may consist of the assembly of a heating means and a means for generating blown air, as described ab ve.

Of course, tbe variants that can be envisioned for the packaging and applicaiion kit or assembly according to the invention, in order to enable, on the one hand, the application of a composition to die skin or the lips and, on the other hand, the acceleration of the drying of the film formed, are also part of the invention. in the description and in the examples that follow, unless otherwise mentioned, the percentages are weight percentages and the ranges of values given in the form "between,., and..." include the stated lower and upper limits.

The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the field of the invention.

Example ! of synthesis of a s^ram k ilar polymer:

100 g of di hydrox lated liydrogenated 1 ,2-polybutadiene polymer (Gi3000 from the company Nisso; Mo ^:::: 4700 measured by GPC according to the protocol described previously) are dried at 80°C, under reduced pressure, overnight. This polymer is dissolved, in 400 ml of anhydrous toluene, 25 μΐ of catalyst (dibutyltin di I a urate) are added and the mixture is healed to 80°C with stirring, until a uniform solution is obtained. 15 g of isocyanate-functionaiized molecule having the following structure:

(CAS No. 32093-85-9)

are added as a solution in 300 ml of anhydrous toluene, under a controlled atmosphere at 40°C. The reaction mixture is heated to 100°C and stirred at this temperature for 4 hours. The reaction is raonitored by infrared spectroscopy, with monitoring of the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isocyanates at 2260 cm^"'. At the end of the reaction, 100 ml of ethanol are added to remove all trace of residual isocyanate, and the mixture is then filtered, after having added isododecane to make the solution less viscous. The polymer solution is then directly stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the final polymer in isododecane. with a solids content of 21 %, is obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 6400 and polydispersity index = 1.85) and 1H NMR (spectrum in accordance with what is expected).

Synthesis of the urddo rimidone diranctionalized polymer GI2000

106.1 g of dihydroxylated hydrogenated 1 ,2-polybutadiene polymer (GI2000 from Nisso, Mn = 3300 measured by GPC according to the protocol described previously) are heated in the presence of 22 mg of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) at 80°C, under reduced pressure, for two hours. The temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20°C, under argon, followed by addition, of 10 ml of isododecane and 19,3 g of isophorone diisocyanate (3PDI). The mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 20°C under a controlled atmosphere, and is then heated to 120°C, followed by addition of 25 ml of propylene carbonate. 12 g of 6- methylisocyiosine are added, resulting in a homogeneous white suspension. This suspension is heated to 140°C and stirred at this temperature for 6 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, up to the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isocyanates (2250 cm^"s). The mixture is then reduced to 30°C, and 400 ml of heptane, 200 ml of THF and 50 ml of ethanol are added, followed by filtration through Celite. The mixture is then stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the polymer in isododecane, with a solids content of 25%, is finally obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 7000 and polydispershy inde = 2,05).

99 g of dihydroxyiated hydrogenated 1 ,2-poiybiitadiene polymer (GB000 from Nisso, Mn = 4700 measured by GPC according to the protocol described previously) are heated in the presence of 22 mg of catalyst (dihutyltin dilaurate) at 80°C, under reduced pressure, for two hours. The temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20°C, under argon, followed by addition of 30 ml of isododecane and 11 g of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). Trie mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 20°C under a controlled atmosphere, and is then heated to 120°C, followed by addition of 25 ml of propylene carbonate. 8.1 g of 6- methylisocytosine are added, resulting in a homogeneous white suspension. This suspension is heated to 140°C and stirred at this temperature for 6 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, up to the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isocyanates (2250 cm^'1). The mixture is then reduced to 30°C, and one litre of heptane is added, followed by filtration through Celite. The mixture is then stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the polymer in isododecane, with a solids content of 20%, is finally obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 4200 and polydispersity inde = 2,34).

Example 4 of sj aih sjs of a ._.sopram iqcuiar polymer:

89 g of dihydroxyiated hydrogenated 1 ,2-polybutadiene polymer (GD000 from Nisso, Mn = 4700 measured by GPC according to the protocol described previously) are heated in the presence of 22 mg of catalyst (dibutyitin dilaurate) at 80°C, under reduced pressure, for two hours, The temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20°C, under argon, followed by addition of 60 ml of isododecane and 11.6 g of 4,4'-dicyelohexyl methane diisocyanaie. The mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 20 °C under a controlled atmosphere, and is -then hea ed to 120 °C„ followed by addition of 40 ml of propylene carbonate. 6.64 g of 6-methylisocytosine are added, resulting in a homogeneous white suspension. This suspension is heated to 140 °C and stirred at this temperature for 8 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, up to the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isoeyanaies (2250 cm^"1). The mixture is then cooled to 30°C, and 250 ml of isododecane and 500 ml of heptane are added, followed by filtration through Ceiite. The mixture is then stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the polymer in isododecane, with a solids content of 22%, is finally obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mo = 10700 and polydispersity index = 2.26).

from Nisso, MR = 3300 measured by GPC according to the protocol described previously) are heated in the presence of 33 mg of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) at 80°C, under reduced pressure, for two hours. The temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20°C, under argon, followed by addition of 85 ml of isododecane and 30.8 g of 4,4'-dicyclohexylmeth.arje diisocyanate. The mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 20 0 under a controlled atmosphere, and is then heated to 120°C, followed by addition of 70 ml of propylene carbonate. 22.6 g of 6-methylisocytosine are added, resulting in a homogeneous white suspension. This suspension is heated to 140°C and stirred at this temperature for 8 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, up to the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isocyanates (2250 em^" Ί. The mixture is then cooled to 20°C, and 700 ml of isododecane and 500 ml of heptane are added, followed by filtration through Ceiite. The mixture is then stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the polymer in isododecane, with a solids content of finally obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 8400 and polydispersity Two lip makeup formulae according to the invention and a comparative composition outside the invention having the compositions below were prepared (the percentages indicated are weight percentages) (see Table 1).

Table 1 below gives the formulation of two compositions according to the invention and of a control corn posit on..

Table Ϊ

Formal a Formula

Formula 3

1 · 2

Comparative

According According

o tside the

to the to the

mveaiion

invention mvemiosi

Solution of

ureidopyrimidone

d!funetiona!ized

90 (i.e. 50 (i.e.

supramoiecuiar 94 (i.e. 23.5%

22.5% 12.5%

polymer G 12000 at solids)

solids) solids)

25% solids, as

prepared in

Example 2

Isododecane 3.35 39 5

Or ga MO po!y siloxane

elastomer (Dow 10

Corning 9041)

Organ opoly siloxane

elastomer

5

(KSG2I0 from

Shin-EtsM)^'

Pigments 1.65 1 1

Total 100 100 100

Procedure:

A ground pigmentary material was prepared in the isododecane by grinding the mixture three times in a three-roll mill.

The ground material required for the composition was weighed out in a beaker. The other constituents of formulae 1 to 3 were weighed out and mixed with mechanical stirring at 50°C until the mixture was homogeneous, and then added to the ground pigmentary material.

Next, the mixture was stirred in a Rayneri blender until homogeneous,

The tacky aspect of the deposits of each of formulae 1 to 3 thus obtained was evaluated according to the protocol defined below. Protocol for frv¾ia¾H»¾ th lack:

Each formula was applied by finger onto a contrast card. The amount applied was 0.2 g.

The tacky nature on the finger was evaluated during drying of the formula after one hour and 24 hours at room temperature (25°C). To do this, a finger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto the applied formula and the tack was assessed by the person on remo val of his finger from the applied, formula.

The aspect of the composition and the gloss of the deposit formed on a contrast card were also evaluated.

10-g masses of each of the compositions were collected.

Each of the samples of compositions was brought to 50°C and then spread onto a contrast card so as to form a deposit 150 μηι thick.

The tacky nature on the finger was evaluated during drying of the formula alter one hour and 24 hours at room temperature (25°C). To do this, a finger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto the applied formula and the tack was assessed by the person on remo val of his finger from the applied formula.

The aspect of the composition, the gloss and the transfer-resistance properties of the deposit formed on the contrast card were also evaluated.

Protocol for evaluating the transfer r sistance:

A face was freed of makeup with a non-greasy makeup remover (such as

Effacil from Lancome) and then with cotton wool and water. The face was then wiped with a paper tissue. After 5 minutes, a foundation formula of one of Examples 1 to 6 was applied by finger to the forearm. The amount applied was 0.2 g.

The face was then wiped with a paper tissue, and the amount of foundation that transferred onto the tissue was then evaluated.

The following results were obtained:

Table 2

For nulla 2 Formul 3

Formula 1

According to Comparative

Accor sssg ro

the ossiside the

the invention

invention invention

Soft

Aspect at. Soft Soft

homogeneous

room homogeneous homogeneous

temperature gel gel

ISO mi

thick spread

whil ot Sparingly Sparingly

Tacky tacky tacky

as is i¾ Ja

one hour at

s iitf iEs

temperature

150 μιη

lli s K.

Very Non- tacky,

sparingly sparingl - while hot Tacky, glossy,

tacky, glossy, glossy,

Tacky slight transfer

transfer- transfer- nature after

resistant resistant

24 hours at

room

temperature

Examples 4 to 6 of _i8i ju d_i8|p8tkk_igomp sitioits (gloss)

Three makeup formulae according to the invention having the following composition were prepared (the percentages indicated are weight percentages).

Table 3 below gives the formulation of three compositions according to the invention. Table 3

Formula Formula

Formula ό

4 5

According

according According

to t e

to the to the

invention

Invention invention

Solution of

u reMopyrimMone

85 (i.e. 85 (i.e. 90 (i.e.

ifunctioniili/cd

21.25% 21.25% 22.5%

supransolecular polymer

solids) solids) solids)

GI290e at 25% solids, as

prepared in Example 2

QrgaBopoiysiloxssne

elastomer 10

( SG210 from Shin-Etsu)

Or an opoly s ί lo x an

elastomer 10 5

(KSG21Q from Shin-Eisa)

Isod deeaoe 4 4 4

Pigments 1 1 1

Total 100 100 100

The mixtures of formulae 4 to 6 were prepared according to the procedure described in the preceding examples. Similarly, each of the formulations was tested in terms of tack, gloss and transfer resistance of the deposit according to the protocol defined above with a taken mass of 15 g,

Table 4 below gives the results obtained.

Table 4 Formula 4 Formula 5 Formula 6

According to According to According to

the invention. the invention the invention

Aspect of the

composition at Soft, tacky, Soft, tacky. Soft, tacky, room mnny gel runny gel runny get

temperature

150 \ thick

deposit spread

while hot

Sparingly Sparingly

Tacky mature Non-tacky

tacky tackv

after one hour at

room

temperature

150 π* thick

deposit spread Non-tacky,

Non-tacky, Non-tacky,

while hot sparingly

glossy, , glossy,

Tacky iiatwe glossy,

transfer- transfer- af er 24 hours at transfer- resistant resistant

room resistant

temperature ft emerges from these results that the compositions in accordance with the mvention allow the productio of a glossy and sparingly tacky or non-tacky makeup deposit, in particular 1 hour after application. The deposits formed with compositions according to the invention, also have good remanence, and good transfer-resistance properties.

Fsansplg ? of a cosmetic fojQj ia of fiu f uRd&tU typji

Composition in accordance with the invention

Table 3 below gives the formulation of a composition according to the invention.

Compounds Formula 7

(according to the

inven ion)

Ai Solution of 48 (i.e. 12% solids)

ureidopyrimidone

difunetioiiaiked

supramoiecular

polymer€12000 at

25% solids, as

prepared in Example

2 isododecane 34.5

Isododeeaise 2.5

Pi me ts 10

B DuHethicone/vfrtyl 5

diniethieone

crosspolymer (Dow

Corning OC 70!

Cosmetic Powder,

Dow Coming)

Total 100

Procedure:

The constitiients of phase A2 are weighed out. The mixture is ground in a three-roll mill.

Nest, the constituents of phase AI are weighed out in the main beaker and placed in a Rayneri blender. Phase A2 is then added. After stirring for a few minutes, phase B is incorporated.

The composition obtained is homogeneous. It allows the production of a homogeneous, sparingly tacky deposit on the skin. '

Claims

1. Cosmetic process for making up and/or earing for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the said skin and/or the said lips of a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one supramolecular polymer based on functional ized polyalkene of formula HOP-OH in which P represents a homopolymer or a copolymer that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more linear, cyclic and/or branched polyunsaturated C2-CJ_.0 and preferably C2-C4 alkenes, which may be derived from the reaction, especially the condensation, of the said functicmalized polyalkene polymer with at least one junction group functionalized with at least one reactive group capable of reacting with the reactive group(s) of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, the said junction group being capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, preferentially 4 H bonds,

- at least one organopolysiloxaixe elastomer,

- and at least one fatty phase.

2. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the functionalized polyalkene of formula HO-P-OH is hydrogenated.

3. Process according to either of the preceding claims, in which P represents a homo- or copolymer that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more linear or branched C₂-C₄ diunsaturated alkenes,

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which P represents a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly(l ,3-pentadiene) or a poly i ob utylene, and copolymers thereof, and preferably a poly(ethylene/hutylene).

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the functionalized junction group is of formula:

in which L represents a saturated or unsaturated C1-C20 divalent carbon-based group, chosen in particular from a linear or branched C C₂0 alkylene; a C5-C₂0 (alkyl)cycloalky!ene, an alkylene-biscycloalkylene and a C6-C20 (alkyl)arylene, preferably an isophorone group.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the supramolecular polymer corres onds to the formula:

in which:

- L' and L" are, independently of each other, as defined for L in the preceding claim;

- X. X' = O and P is as defined in one of the preceding claims.

7. Process according to the preceding claim, in which:

- U and L" ' are both isophorone groups.

- X and X'= O and P represents a polybntylene, a polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly(l ,3-pentadiene) or a polyisobutylene, and copolymers thereof, and preferably a po 1 y { eth ykne buiylene ) .

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 50% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 40% and better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight of supramolecular polymer solids relative to the total weight of the said composition.

9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight of organopolysi loxane elastomerfs) relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises the said organopolysiloxane elastomer and the said supramolecular polymer in a poiymer(s)/organopolysiloxane elastomers) weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 50, more particularly from 0.5 to 40 and better still from 1 to 20.

1 1. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the composition, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by erosslinkmg addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiioxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiioxane containing at least two ethyienicall unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

12. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that, in the composition, the said compound (A) is chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiioxy end groups, diraethylsiloxane-methylhydfogenopolysiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiioxy end groups, and dimethyl si loxane- methylhydrogenopolysiloxarse cyclic copolymers.

13. Process according to either of Claims 1 1 and 12, characterized in that, in the composition, the said compound (B) is a diorganopolysiioxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group being chosen from vinyl, ally] and propenyl groups,

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the composition, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is free of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl units.

15. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that, in the composition, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is chosen from polyoxyaikylenaied organopolysiloxane elastomers and poiyglycerolated silicone elastomers. .

16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one oil, preferably a silicone oil.

17. Anhydrous composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one supramolecular polymer, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer and at least one fatty phase.

18. Composition according to Claim 17, in which the supramolecular polymer is as defined in Claims 1 to 8.

19. Composition according to Claims 17 and 18, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is as defined in Claims 9 to 14.

20. Composition according to any one of Claims 17 to 19, which is in the form of a complexion product such as a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow; a lip product such as a lipstick or a iipcare product; a concealer product; a blusher; an eyeliner; a lipstick pencil or eye pencil; a body makeup product or a gloss (lip gloss).