WO2010149437A1

WO2010149437A1 - Hair conditioning composition based on c16-c22 anionic surfactant and c16-c22 fatty material

Info

Publication number: WO2010149437A1
Application number: PCT/EP2010/056986
Authority: WO
Inventors: Andrew Malcolm Murray; Thuy-Anh Pham
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.; Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date: 2009-06-24
Filing date: 2010-05-20
Publication date: 2010-12-29
Also published as: TW201105357A

Abstract

Hair care composition comprising a gel network of an anionic surfactant with an alkyl groups with from 16-22 carbons and a fatty material having from 16-22 carbons and water, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% wt. anionic surfactant having an alkyl group with from 8-14 carbons and less than 0.5% wt. cationic surfactant.

Description

HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION BASED ON C16-C22 ANIONIC SURFACTANT AND C16-C22 FATTY MATERIAL

The present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition comprising a quat-free conditioning gel.

Despite the prior art there remains the need for dedicated and effective conditioning compositions which do not comprise quaternary ammonium compounds.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising a gel network of an anionic surfactant with an alkyl group having from 16-22 carbons and a fatty material having from 16-22 carbons and water, wherein the composition comprises less than 1 % wt. anionic surfactant having an alkyl group with from 8-14 carbons and less than 0.5% wt. cationic surfactant.

The composition is an effective conditioning composition yet comprises no quaternary ammonium surfactant.

Preferably, the composition comprises no anionic surfactant having an alkyl group with from 8 to 14 carbons. This provides stability to the gel network within the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises no cationic surfactant.

The composition of the invention comprises a gel network comprising the anionic surfactant and the fatty material. In this regard it is essential that the gel network is manufactured in advance of mixing with the remaining ingredients of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises an anionic hair or scalp active. Preferred anionic hair or scalp actives include keratin fraction, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutahc acid, glyceric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, (N-(2,4-dihydroxy-3,3- dimethylbutyryl)-β-alanine), muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1 ,2,4-pentathcarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1 ,2,4,6,7- naphthalinepentaacetic acid, malonaldehydic acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1 - pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propanethcarboxylic acid and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that keratin fraction is S-sulphonated, it is further preferred where the S-sulfonated keratin protein fraction is intact. "Intact" refers to proteins that have not been significantly hydrolysed. Of particular relevance for this invention are "intact" proteins described by Gillespie in Gillespie (Biochemistry and physiology of the skin, vol. 1 , Ed. Goldsmith Oxford University Press, London,

1983, pp475-510). These are equivalent to the keratin proteins in their native form without the disulfide cross-links formed through the process of keratinisation.

A "keratin protein fraction" is a purified form of keratin that contains predominantly, although not entirely, one distinct protein group.

S-Sulfonated keratins have cysteine/cystine present predominantly in the form S- sulfocysteine, commonly known as the Bunte salt. Preferred keratin fractions are S-sulphonated keratin fractions containing S- sulphonated keratin high sulphur protein (SHSP). These proteins preferably have a molecular weight in the range 10-30 kD and a cysteine content determined through amino acid analysis of greater than 10%. This material may be prepared by a variety of methods including those described in WO2003011894 A1.

The level of keratin fraction in the composition is at least 0.5 wt% of the composition (composition 1 ), preferably grater than 1 wt%, more preferably greater than 2 wt%, most preferably from 2.5 to 7 wt%.

Preferably, the composition comprises vegetable oils. Preferred vegetable oils include jojoba, soybean, sunflower seed oil, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, castor, coconut, mink oils

Preferably, the composition comprises anionic polymer. Examples of anionic polymer include alkyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymers (Trade name: Gantrez S95), Xanthan Gum (Trade Name: Keltrol RD) and Dehydroxanthan gum (Trade Name: Amaze XT).

Preferably, the composition has a pH of from 2.5 to 8.

In a second aspect the present invention provides the use of a composition according to any preceding claim for conditioning the hair.

The composition according to the invention may contain any of a number of ingredients commonly found in conditioning compositions for example silicones, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty amides, colourants, dyes, pigments, pearlescers, thickeners, structurants, opacifiers, etc. -A-

EXAMPLE 1

The following are conditioning compositions.

EXAMPLE 2

The following is a process for making a conditioning composition.

Heat water to about 70⁰C. To this, add the polymers (when present), fatty alcohol, anionic surfactant (Sodium Cetylstearyl sulphate), using high speed stirring. When uniform dispersion obtained, cool this mixture down to about 45°C with the same speed stirring. Remaining components are then added to this with moderate speed stirring. Hair or scalp actives such as Keratec or salicylic acid and/or natural oils can be added either at the early stage when heating water (before adding fatty alcohol) or at the late stage after the mixture cooled down to about 45°C.

For better mixtures of different fatty amphiphiles, the different fatty materials can be co-melted together before adding into the heated water along with the anionic surfactant.

Claims

1. Hair care composition comprising a gel network of an anionic surfactant with an alkyl groups with from 16-22 carbons and a fatty material having from 16-22 carbons and water, wherein the composition comprises less than 1 % wt. anionic surfactant having an alkyl group with from 8-14 carbons and less than 0.5% wt. cationic surfactant.

2. Composition according to claim 1 comprising an anionic hair or scalp active.

3. Composition according to claim 1 comprising anionic polymer.

4. Composition according to any preceding claim which has a pH of from 2.5 to 8.

5. Use of a composition according to any preceding claim for conditioning the hair.