WO2010076122A2 - Produits pour permanente contenant de l'aloe vera - Google Patents

Produits pour permanente contenant de l'aloe vera Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010076122A2
WO2010076122A2 PCT/EP2009/066499 EP2009066499W WO2010076122A2 WO 2010076122 A2 WO2010076122 A2 WO 2010076122A2 EP 2009066499 W EP2009066499 W EP 2009066499W WO 2010076122 A2 WO2010076122 A2 WO 2010076122A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
aloe
acid
keratin
fibers
alcohol
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PCT/EP2009/066499
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2010076122A3 (fr
Inventor
Winfried Emmerling
Birgit Rautenberg-Groth
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2010076122A2 publication Critical patent/WO2010076122A2/fr
Publication of WO2010076122A3 publication Critical patent/WO2010076122A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the invention relates to corrugating agents which contain, in addition to at least one keratin-reducing compound, an active substance from a plant of the genus Aloe and a protein hydrolyzate; a packaging unit comprising the corrugating agent, as well as a method for permanent hair deformation, in which the active ingredient combination of the corrugating agent according to the invention finds application.
  • the permanent deformation of keratin fibers is usually carried out by mechanically deforming the fiber and defining the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and rinsed after a contact time with water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fiber is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After a period of action, this is also rinsed and the fiber of the mechanical deformation aids (winder, Papilloten) freed.
  • the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance is usually adjusted to be alkaline so that, on the one hand, a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions are deprotonated and, on the other hand, the fiber swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is made possible.
  • the keratin-reducing substance splits some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin - SH groups, resulting in a loosening of the peptide crosslinking and, due to the tension of the fiber due to the mechanical deformation, a reorientation of the keratin layer.
  • a negative concomitant of the permanent undulation of the hair thus carried out is often an embrittlement and dulling of the hair, which manifests itself in the fact that the hair feels dry.
  • this concomitant signifies permanent damage to the hair fiber, which can lead to hair breakage or hair splitting.
  • irritation of the scalp can be induced in sensitive persons by the keratin-reducing compounds.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a corrugating agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of
  • the corrugating agents contain at least one keratin-reducing compound.
  • the keratin-reducing compounds are preferably selected from at least one member of the group that is formed
  • Preferred sulfite compounds are selected from at least one member of the group formed from sulfites, hydrogen sulfites or disulfites.
  • keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites are sodium disulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 5 ), potassium disulfite (K 2 S 2 O 5 ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH 4 ) 2 S 2 O 5 ).
  • Ammonium disulfite may be preferred according to the invention.
  • Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of hydrogen sulfites are hydrogen sulfites as alkali metal, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C 2 -C 4 mono-, di- or trialkanolamine.
  • Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite.
  • keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfites are sulfites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C 2 -C 4 mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred.
  • Preferred keratin-reducing compounds of the group of mercaptans are thioacids, that is to say compounds which (i) carry at least one -SH group and (ii) at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate group or carboxyl group or carboxylate group.
  • those thioacids are preferred which carry (i) at least one -SH group, (ii) at least one carboxyl group or carboxylate group and (iii) at least one hydroxy group and / or amino group.
  • thioacids are thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteine, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and the salts and esters of the aforementioned thioacids.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention contain at least one preparation which is obtained from a plant of the genus Aloe and contains at least one active substance characteristic of this plant genus.
  • Aloe all naturally occurring plants belonging to the genus Aloe can be used.
  • the literature currently describes over 300 different plant species. Preferred species include aloe mutabilis, aloe melanocantha, aloe manchii, aloe pearsonii, aloe comptonii, aloe mitriformis, aloe distans, aloe arenicola, aloe volkensii, aloe petrophylla, aloe ferox, aloe africana, aloe globiligemma, aloe perry, aloe viscensii, aloe vera, aloe lettyae, aloe capensis, aloe barbadensis, aloe socethis, aloe curacao, aloe candelabrum, aloe excelsa, aloe cameronii, aloe sessiliflora, aloe reitzii, aloe acul
  • preparations which are obtained from Aloe capensis or Aloe barbadensis are particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are those which are obtained from Aloe barbadensis, the so-called genuine aloe or else aloe vera.
  • the preparation according to the invention is obtained from the plant constituents, in principle there are no restrictions.
  • the gel contained in the plants can be used directly in the form in which it occurs in violation of the aloe leaves.
  • the plant components can be mechanically comminuted in an optional first step.
  • mechanical comminution methods include, for example, cutting, pureeing and crushing.
  • the preparations can then be obtained in a first embodiment by means of mechanical separation methods from the plant components, which are based on the utilization of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum. These include, for example, decanting, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifuging.
  • mechanical forces such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum.
  • preparations are used which are obtained from the plant constituents by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method.
  • extracts are particularly preferred.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use may be used. This can be done for example by using activated carbon.
  • an extract of aloe can be attributed directly to its characteristic composition of ingredients.
  • This composition may differ in parts by weight and ingredients depending on the type of aloe, on growth conditions, on the part of the plant used and on its method of production.
  • aloin barbaloin
  • emodin (1,3,8-trihydroxy-6-methylanthraquinone
  • aloe-emodin (1,8-dihydroxy) 3- (hydroxymethyl) anthraquinone) and its glycosidic derivatives (so-called Glyco-Aloeemodine-Anthorne)
  • Glyco-Aloeemodine-Anthorne glycosidic derivatives
  • nataloine homonataloins
  • isobarbaloin aloesin and therefrom by glycosidic linkages derived aloeinosides (A and B)
  • chrysophanol (1, 8-dihydroxy-3 -methyl-anthraquinone) and special resins.
  • a compilation of the most important aloe ingredients is, for example, in Current Organic Chemistry 2000, 4 (10), pp. 1055-1078 (24) by E. Dagne et al. to find.
  • Aloein also Aloin, Aloein A or Barbaloin
  • Anthrachinonglycosid with the following structure:
  • monosaccharides are usually arabinose, galactose, glucose, mannose and xylose in the extract, as polysaccharide ingredients at least one glucomannan, and are also essential ß-linked mannose polymers such as acemannan (ß-1, 4-acetylated mannan) ,
  • Active extracts of the Aloe vera preferred according to the invention therefore contain at least aloe.
  • Extracts of the Aloe vera which are particularly preferred according to the invention can be obtained by extraction from stems and / or leaves of Aloe barbadensis with a mixture of water and propylene glycol as extractant.
  • corrugating means are characterized in that the agent comprises the effective extract of Aloe barbadensis in a proportion of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 1 wt. % and in particular from 0.3 to 0.9 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains. It is particularly advantageous if the extract used has an active substance content of 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 2 to 4 wt .-%.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention comprise at least one protein hydrolyzate.
  • the nature and the origin of the protein hydrolyzate according to the invention initially there are no restrictions.
  • protein hydrolysates of animal origin for example of collagen, milk or keratin, are used.
  • - of vegetable origin for example, wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds,
  • marine life forms such as fish collagen or algae, or can be obtained from biotechnology.
  • the protein hydrolysates can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of obtained both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons.
  • total hydrolysates of proteins have also proved to be preferred.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Also according to the invention is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products.
  • Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates are used in the form of their cationic derivatives.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids of the total hydrolyzate is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl
  • the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably present in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention contain at least one NC 6 - 3 o-acylamino acid and / or a derivative thereof, in particular their salts, to increase their activity.
  • At least one NC 6 - contained 3 o-acyl amino acid which is selected from NC 6 - 3 o-acyl-glutamic acid, NC 6 - taurine and 3 o-acyl or from the salts aforementioned acids.
  • the said NC 6 - 3 o-Acylaminoklaren derived on the one hand from the corresponding amino acid.
  • the C 6 -3 o-acyl group of said N-acylamino acids is preferably derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid and capric acid.
  • NC 6 - 3 o-Acylaminoklaren are N-Kokoylglutamin yarn, N-stearoylglutamic acid or salts of the aforementioned acids.
  • the essential components of the waving agent according to the invention are preferably used in a cosmetic carrier.
  • cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers.
  • the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the pH of the waving agent according to the invention is in the range of pH 5 to 12, in particular from pH 7 to 9.5.
  • the pH of the corrugation according to the invention is preferably adjusted to a value in the neutral range of from pH 5 to 8, preferably from pH 6 to 7.5.
  • the waving agents according to the invention usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.
  • alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.
  • the pH of the corrugating agent according to the invention remains constant during use. Constant in the sense of the invention means that the pH of the ready-to-use corrugating agent does not change by more than 0.5 pH units, in particular not more than 0.2 pH units.
  • the ready-to-use corrugating agent is preferably formulated free of compounds which cause a measurable dynamic pH reduction by alkali hydrolysis taking place in the ready-to-use corrugating medium.
  • These compounds are, for example, diethyl oxalate, galactone-1, 4-lactone, ribonic acid 1, 4-lactone, mannonic acid 1, 4-lactone, gulonic acid 1, 4-lactone, glucuronic acid 6,3-lactone, gluconic acid-1, 5-lactone, other carboxylic acid esters in combination with ester-cleaving enzymes.
  • corrugating agents according to the invention may contain corrosive components, such as
  • Heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine, and derivatives of these compounds, for example the C 1-4 -alkyl derivatives, C 1-4 -alkyl
  • Preferred substituents which are positioned both on carbon atoms and on nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems may be methyl, ethyl, ß-hydroxyethyl and ß-aminoethyl groups.
  • Preferred derivatives of heterocyclic compounds according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1, 2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2 Ethyl piperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine.
  • Further preferred imidazole derivatives according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Most preferably, the imidazole.
  • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine.
  • the amino acids can be used both as free amino acid and as salts, eg. B. as hydrochlorides used.
  • oligopeptides of on average 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have proven to be usable according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides.
  • Diols such as, for example, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol.
  • the reinforcing compounds may be present in the waving agents of the invention in amounts of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total waving agent. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one oil component.
  • Oil components which are suitable according to the invention are, in principle, all oils and fatty substances and also mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. Such oil components whose solubility wt .-% in water at 20 0 C of less than 1 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.1 are preferred.
  • the melting point of the individual oil or fatty components is preferably below about 40 0 C. oil components at room temperature, ie below 25 0 C are liquid may be particularly preferred in the present invention.
  • a preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, Wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n -decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred.
  • This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, Elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z.
  • alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
  • Isotridecyl alcohol myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate and Neopentylglykoldi-capylate oil components used in the invention, as complex esters such.
  • oil components which can preferably be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes.
  • silicone oils in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes.
  • silicones examples include the products sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401, and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion ( containing a hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abif-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternmaschinee Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401, and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corn
  • silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C. may be preferred.
  • silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C. are determined by the falling ball method in accordance with the British standard 188 method. Comparable values are obtained with manufacturer's "British Standard 188" analog test specifications, for example "CTM 0577” from Dow Corning Corporation.
  • kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt at 25 0 C as the oil component in particular cyclic siloxanes such as the products of Dow Corning ® 344, Dow Corning ® 345, Dow Corning ® 244, Dow Corning ® 245 or Dow Corning ® 246 determined according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • oil components which can be used according to the invention are also dialkyl carbonates, as described in detail in DE-OS 197 101 54, to which reference is expressly made.
  • Dioctyl carbonates, especially the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.
  • the waving agents according to the invention may additionally contain only limited water-miscible alcohols.
  • miscible with water are meant those alcohols which are soluble in water at 20 0 C to not more than 10 wt .-%, based on the mass of water, are soluble.
  • triols and in particular diols have proven to be particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • Alcohols having 4 to 20, in particular 4 to 10, carbon atoms can be used according to the invention.
  • the alcohols used in the invention may be saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or produced from the transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • alcohols are 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1, 3, butanol-1, cyclohexanol, pentanol-1 and 1, 2-butanediol.
  • 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1, 3, but also butanol-1 and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.
  • emulsifiers can be used in the waving agents according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH., Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and the lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or
  • Phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds e.g., soybeans are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the particular total composition.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M.Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses those embodiments of the inventive corrugating medium in which a multi-phase corrugating agent is present, which can be prepared from two or more separately prepared starting preparations only immediately before use.
  • This embodiment may be preferred for incompatible components.
  • corrugating agents formulated in this way produce a significantly increased wave effect for the same amount of the respective additional keratin-reducing components. Consequently, in this way the corrugated power achieved with a corrugated agent formulated according to the invention can be achieved with a marked reduction in the proportion of the keratin-reducing substance, and thus with additional protection of the hair and scalp.
  • No two-phase systems in the context of the present invention are systems in which only a continuous phase is present, such.
  • pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are systems in which only a continuous phase is present, such.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one conditioning active ingredient.
  • Suitable conditioning agents are preferably cationic polymers. These are in the
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are sold under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and - methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid copolymers such as those available under the name Luviquat ® , quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and those under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27th known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Suitable conditioning agents are also ampho-polymers.
  • Amphoteric polymers are amphoteric polymers, ie polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SOOH groups and are capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -SOß ' groups, and such polymers summarized, the -COOH or SOgH groups and quaternary
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, ethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (eg, acrylic and methacrylic acid), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (eg, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride), and optionally further ionic or nonionic monomers, such as, for example, in US Pat German published patent application 39 29 973 and the cited prior art can be found there.
  • Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and Methacrylamidopropyltrimoniumchlorid as they are commercially available under the name Merquat ® 2001 N and the commercial product Merquat ® 280, according to the invention are particularly preferred amphopolymers.
  • the cationic or amphoteric polymers are contained in the preparations according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.
  • Fancorsil ® LIM-1 silicone gums, such as, for example, the product of Dow Corning ® 1784th
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • estersquats such as those marketed under the trademarks Dehyquart ® and Stepantex ® methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfate, can be used.
  • Alkylamidoamines in particular fatty acid amidoamines, such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine obtainable under the name Tego Amid® S 18, are distinguished not only by a good conditioning action but also by their good biodegradability.
  • Further customary constituents for the waving agents according to the invention are: anionic surfactants such as soaps, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, salts of ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) ⁇ -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acylisethionates, monosulphonic and dialkyl monosurfactants, linear alkanesulphonates, linear alpha-olefin sulphonates, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters and esters of tartaric acid and citric acid alkyl glycosides or alcohols, which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines.
  • ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic esters and amides and their derivatives obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents,
  • Polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinylpropionate crotonic acid copolymers, organic thickeners such as agar-agar , Guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers such as methyl and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum.
  • Ethoxylated fatty alcohols especially those with limited homolog distribution, such as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ® F (Henkel) on the market, alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate ® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil ® 141 (Goldschmidt) may be preferred organic thickeners.
  • Structuralants such as glucose and maleic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and
  • Perfume oils such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glycerides and
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.
  • a second object of the invention is a process for the permanent transformation keratin anywayr
  • Fibers in particular human hair, in which
  • a corrugating agent of the second subject of the invention is applied to the fibers, (iii) the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after an exposure time Z1, (iv) then a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the fibers and after an exposure time Z2 is rinsed off again.
  • Deformation aids in the context of the method according to the invention can be, for example, hair curlers or papillots in the case of a permanent wave, or aids for mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in the case of hair straightening. If the forming aids, such as winder, are attached to the fiber for a prolonged period of time by means of a permanent wave process, it is expedient to remove these deformation aids before step (iii) or after step (iv). It may be advantageous in this connection to add the shaping aids during the step (iv) in the hair then remove it and then repeat step (iv) as the so-called post-fixation step (v).
  • the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • a liquid preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.
  • Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • the reaction time Z1 of the corrugating agent according to the invention is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.
  • the reaction time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.
  • a mandatory constituent of the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention is at least one oxidizing agent (for example sodium bromate, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, particularly preferably hydrogen peroxide).
  • oxidizing agent for example sodium bromate, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, particularly preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the stabilizers customary for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations are preferably included.
  • the fixing agents preferably contain at least 50% by weight of water.
  • hydrogen peroxide-containing fixing agents preferably contain from 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H 2 O 2, based in each case on the weight of the fixing agent.
  • the pH of these hydrogen peroxide-based fixers is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4. It is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid.
  • Bromat-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight.
  • the pH of the bromate solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • enzymatic-based fixatives for example peroxidases
  • H 2 O 2 oxidizing agents
  • a third subject of the invention is a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for carrying out the method according to the invention, comprising a first container containing a corrugation medium of the second Subject of the invention and a second container containing a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agents of the third subject of the invention are preferred.
  • These two containers may be separate containers or different chambers within a two- or multi-chamber container, for example a multi-chamber tube, a multi-chamber aerosol can or a multi-chamber bottle.
  • a multi-chamber tube for example a multi-chamber tube, a multi-chamber aerosol can or a multi-chamber bottle.
  • Such containers are known to those skilled in the art.
  • the kit may additionally contain a use instruction which prescribes the use of the kit according to the method of the third subject of the invention.
  • kit can also optionally contain application aids, mixing bowls or protective gloves.
  • compositions were prepared by conventional methods (the amounts are always in% by weight unless stated otherwise).
  • Gluadin ® WQ wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 31-35% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben) (Cognis) Herbasol ® Extract Aloe Aloe Vera Extract (about 2-4% solids INCI name: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben) (Cosmetochem)
  • the perm formulations with 0.6% by weight aloe vera extract or comparable formulations without this extract were applied to hair strands and left there for 20 minutes. Thereafter, the hair was rinsed for 5 minutes with clear water. Then the fixation was applied and left on the hair for 10 minutes. After this exposure time, the hair was rinsed with clear water for an additional 5 minutes. This procedure was repeated a total of 3 times. After air drying and 24 hours of air conditioning at 25 ° C and 40% relative humidity, the hair was subjected to a moisture measurement (microwave method).
  • the measuring principle is based on a microwave resonance method. The method uses the dipole properties of the water molecule. In a measuring cell, a harmonic electromagnetic resonance field is generated. The water bound in the product now interacts with this field. The field changes are detected by means of a detector and evaluated in a control unit.
  • the hair treated with the aloe vera extract-containing formulation had up to 15.7% more internal moisture than the hair treated with any of the comparative formulations.
  • the hair treated according to the invention showed a pleasant feel and good combability.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits pour permanente qui, en plus d'au moins un composé kératoréducteur, contiennent un principe actif extrait d'une plante du genre aloès et un hydrolysat de protéine. L'invention concerne également une unité d'emballage renfermant le produit pour permanente, ainsi qu'un procédé de mise en forme capillaire durable dans lequel la combinaison de principes actifs du produit pour permanente selon l'invention trouve son application.
PCT/EP2009/066499 2008-12-29 2009-12-07 Produits pour permanente contenant de l'aloe vera WO2010076122A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102008063280A DE102008063280A1 (de) 2008-12-29 2008-12-29 Wellmittel mit Aloe Vera
DE102008063280.5 2008-12-29

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WO2010076122A2 true WO2010076122A2 (fr) 2010-07-08
WO2010076122A3 WO2010076122A3 (fr) 2010-11-25

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0117469A1 (fr) * 1983-02-25 1984-09-05 Kao Corporation Cosmétiques pour les cheveux
WO1987003196A1 (fr) * 1985-11-22 1987-06-04 Agave Cosmetics Proprietary Limited Traitement pour les cheveux
EP0377836A2 (fr) * 1988-12-12 1990-07-18 Helene Curtis, Inc. Méthode et composition pour conditionner les cheveux
EP1057469A2 (fr) * 1999-04-27 2000-12-06 Cognis Deutschland GmbH Procede de deformation permanente des fibres keratiniques
WO2006125619A1 (fr) * 2005-05-27 2006-11-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorants capillaires a constituants d'aloes

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4963349A (en) 1988-10-04 1990-10-16 Redken Laboratories, Inc. Permanent wave solution
DE3929973A1 (de) 1989-09-08 1991-03-14 Henkel Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
DE4436065A1 (de) 1994-10-10 1996-04-11 Henkel Kgaa Mittel und Verfahren zur dauerhaften Verformung von Keratinfasern
DE19710154C2 (de) 1997-03-12 1999-04-01 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Dialkylcarbonaten

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0117469A1 (fr) * 1983-02-25 1984-09-05 Kao Corporation Cosmétiques pour les cheveux
WO1987003196A1 (fr) * 1985-11-22 1987-06-04 Agave Cosmetics Proprietary Limited Traitement pour les cheveux
EP0377836A2 (fr) * 1988-12-12 1990-07-18 Helene Curtis, Inc. Méthode et composition pour conditionner les cheveux
EP1057469A2 (fr) * 1999-04-27 2000-12-06 Cognis Deutschland GmbH Procede de deformation permanente des fibres keratiniques
WO2006125619A1 (fr) * 2005-05-27 2006-11-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Colorants capillaires a constituants d'aloes

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