WO2010006866A2

WO2010006866A2 - Non-weighting hair treatment composition with structuring effects

Info

Publication number: WO2010006866A2
Application number: PCT/EP2009/057423
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thorsten Knappe; Marcus Noll; Helga Flodrop Van
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-07-15
Filing date: 2009-06-16
Publication date: 2010-01-21
Also published as: DE102008033106A1; WO2010006866A3

Abstract

Hair treatment compositions which give the hair a soft, bouffant feel without weighing down the hairstyle, and which have pre-eminent rinse-out qualities, comprise, in a suitable cosmetic vehicle, at least one silicone elastomer, which is present in a silicone-based gel, and at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a to silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b being greater than 1.

Description

"Non-weighting hair treatment product with structuring effects"

The present invention relates to agents for treating keratinous fibers containing a combination of polymers with other specific ingredients.

Among keratinic fibers, in principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. Of the Hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may also be present.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In addition to shaping and hairstyle, the appearance of hair treated with hair-treatment products is at the center of consumer interest. So hair should be supple and shine while feeling soft and full. In addition, the consumer expects the reversibility of the effects, i. a good washability of the products in order to be able to realize a different style if necessary.

To care for keratinous fibers many hair treatment products contain silicones. These give the hair a pleasant grip, but often have the disadvantage that they complain the hairstyle, make the hair stringy and greasy look and are also difficult to wash out.

Another problem is that subsequent treatments of the hair, such as dyeing or shaping, have worsened results due to the poorer washability of the silicone-containing compositions.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide hair treatment compositions which give the hair a soft, full-bodied feel without complaining about the hairstyle. Particular importance should be attached to the washability of the compositions according to the invention.

It has now surprisingly been found that the combination of silicone elastomers with silicone-containing emulsifiers is suitable for achieving this object.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment composition containing in a suitable cosmetic carrier a) at least one silicone elastomer present in a silicone-based gel, b) at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, characterized in that the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a) to silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b ) is greater than 1.

The agents according to the invention contain as the first compulsory component at least one silicone elastomer which is present in a silicone-based gel.

A preferred hair treatment agent is characterized in that the silicone elastomer a) is obtainable by the crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl groups having terminal double bonds in each molecule with an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in has every molecule.

Hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the organopolysiloxane having at least 2 C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkenyl groups having a terminal double bond in the molecule is selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers compounds with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylvinylsiloxy endblocked dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, methyl (3,3, Dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated 3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxanes and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl- (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -siloxane copolymers.

Hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the crosslinking organopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms is selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-endblocked dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen-siloxane copolymers.

Silicone elastomers which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are already pre-swollen as raw material in a silicone liquid at room temperature under normal conditions and are a silicone-based gel are commercially available, for example under the trade names SFE 168, a cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer from GE Silicones, vinyl Dimethicone cross polymers, contained in KSG-15 (cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, silicone elastomer content 4 - 10 wt.%), KSG-16 (dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, silicone elastomer content 20-30 wt -%), KSG-17 (cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), KSG-18 (phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, silicone elastomer content 10-20 wt%); and KSG-20 available from Shin Etsu Silicones of America (Akron, Ohio), and Grant Industries Inc. (Elmwood Park, NJ) products from the Gransil ^® series, especially Gransil SR-CYC (cyclomethicone and stearyl-vinyl / hydromethylsiloxane copolymer), Gransil RPS ^® gel (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11) Gransil GCM-4 ^® (INCI name: Polysilicone-cyclotetrasiloxane and 11) Gransil GCM-5 ^® (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® RPS (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11), GI-CD 10 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone copolymer (and) Dimethicone), Gransil ^® IDS (INCI name : Isododecane (and) cyclotetrasiloxane (and) polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® PC-12 (INCI name: Isododecane (and) polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® IDS-5 (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and ) Polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® APK-1 (INCI designation: Dimethicone to d Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and nylon-12 and Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile copolymer and PEG-10 Dimethicone and Polysorbate-40 and Isohexadecane and ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurates), Gransil ^® DMCM-5 (INCI name: Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 ), Gransil ^® DMG-6 (with dimethicone 6 cSt) (INCI name: dimethicone and polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® DMG-20 (with dimethicone 20 cst) (INCI name: dimethicone and polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® AM-8 gel (INCI name: Caprylyl Methicone and Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® DM 5 with Dimethicone (5 cSt) (INCI name: dimethicone and polysilicone-11), Gransil ^® DMID (INCI name: Dimethicone and Isododecane and Polysilicone-11), Gransil PM ^® (INCI name: Polysilicone-phenyl Trimethicone and 11), Gransil ^® ININ (INCI name: isononyl Isononanoate (and) Polysilicone-11).

Silicone elastomers a) which are already present as raw material in a liquid silicone at room temperature under normal conditions, mixed with a non-silicone-containing oil, fat or wax, and a silicone / non-silicone are also preferably used in the compositions according to the invention -based gel. Such silicone elastomer compositions are also commercially available, for example under the trade name Gransil ^® MLB (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and Beeswax), Gransil PS ^® (INCI designation voltage: cyclotetrasiloxane and polysilicone-11 and petrolatum), Gransil ^® PS-5 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and petrolatum), Gransil ^® DMG-20 P (with dimethicone 20 cst) and petrolatum (INCI designation: Dimethicone and polysilicone-11 and petrolatum), Gransil ^® RJO (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and polysilicone-11 and Jojoba Oil), Gransil ^® LANO (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and polysilicone-11 and lanolin), Gransil ^® OHS 5 (INCI - Name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and Octyl Hydroxystearate) and Gransil ^® DML (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (and) Polysilicone-11).

Another preferred hair treatment agent is characterized in that the silicone elastomer a) is obtainable by the crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl groups having terminal double bond in each molecule with at least one alpha, omega-diene.

Crosslinking alpha, omega-dienes which are particularly preferred according to the invention have the formula CH ₂ = CH (CH ₂ ) _X CH = CH ₂ where x = 1 to 20. Particularly preferred alpha, omega-dienes are selected from 1,4-pentadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1,6-heptadiene, 1,7-octadiene, 1,8-nonadiene, 1,1-dodecadiene, 1, 13-tetradecadiene and 1, 19-eicosadiene.

A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that at least one of the silicone elastomers has emulsifying properties. It has surprisingly been found that the objects underlying this application have been solved particularly well; in particular the temperature stability of the compositions according to the invention could be improved. The emulsifying properties are preferably obtainable with silicone elastomers of crosslinked organopolysiloxanes containing polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups as functional groups on the polysiloxane skeleton. These groups can be arranged terminally and / or as side groups to the polysiloxane chain.

Both non-emulsifying and emulsifying silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof can be used according to the invention.

According to the invention, particularly preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers b containing at least one α, omega-diene crosslinked organopolysiloxane in a silicone-based gel are commercially available, for example from Dow Corning the products DC 9040 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, silicone elastomer content 12-14 wt .-%) and DC 9041 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

According to the invention particularly preferred emulsifying silicone elastomers b containing at least one alpha, omega-diene crosslinked ethylene oxide-substituted organopolysiloxanes in a silicone-based gel are commercially available, for example from Dow Corning the products DC 9010 and DC 9011 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane ( and) PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

Particularly preferred emulsifying silicone elastomers a which comprise crosslinked ethylene oxide-substituted organopolysiloxanes in a silicone-based gel are commercially available, for example the products KSG-21, KSG-31, KSG-31X and KSG-32 from Shin-Etsu.

Regardless of whether only one silicone elastomer or several different silicone elastomers are contained in the compositions according to the invention, the total amount of silicone elastomers is preferably within certain quantitative ranges. Thus, another preferred embodiment of the invention is hair treatment compositions which contain the silicone elastomer (s) a present in a silicone-based gel (t / s) in a total amount of 0.05-20% by weight 0.5 to 15% by weight and more preferably 1 to 12.5% by weight, based in each case on the entire cosmetic composition.

It may vary the total amount of silicone elastomers depending on the product type. While hair styling agents such as hair sprays, hair gels, etc. are usually used in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 8% by weight and in particular from 0, Containing 5 to 7.5 wt .-%, the elastomers are used in hair tip fluids or other concentrated care products in higher amounts. Hair care agents in the form of care fluids which are preferred according to the invention comprise the silicone elastomer (s) a present in a silicone-based gel (tVen), in a total amount of 2.5-20% by weight, preferably 5-17. 5% by weight and particularly preferably from 7.5 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total fluid.

According to the invention, the weight ratio is the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a to water-in-oil emulsifier silicone-based b> 1. To determine this numerical value, the total amount of silicone elastomers (in wt .-%, based on total agent) by the total amount of water-in Silicone-based emulsifier (in% by weight, based on total Shared). Even with this ratio, the choice of preferred values depends on the type of hair treatment agent.

Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention are hair treatment compositions in which the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a to water-in-oil emulsifier silicone base b in the range of 1, 25- 50, preferably 1, 5-30 and particularly preferably 2-25, lies ,

For hair styling agents such as hair sprays, hair gels etc., ratios in the smaller of the ranges mentioned are usually selected, for example in the range from 1.1 to 40, preferably from 1.25 to 30, more preferably from 1.5 to 20 and in particular from 1.75 to 10. In hairspray fluids or other concentrated care products, the ratio is in higher ranges, for example in the range of 2 to 50, preferably 5 to 45, more preferably 10 to 40 and especially 15 to 30.

As a second essential ingredient, the compositions of the invention contain at least one water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone.

The at least one water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone is preferably present in an amount of 0.05-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight and in particular 0.5-2.5% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the inventive composition.

Hair-treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer (s) selected from compounds of the general structural formulas (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) included

CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃

R ¹ -Si-O- -Si-O-Si - O - -Si-R ¹ CH, CH, CH,

(I)

CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃

R ² -Si- O- -Si-O Si- -O-Si-R ² CH, R ¹ CH, CH,

(H)

where the radicals R ¹ independently of one another represent a linear or branched C _r C ₃₀ -alkyl group or an optionally substituted phenyl group, the radicals R ^{2 are} independently of one another the groups -C _c H _2c -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ or

-C _c H _{2 o} -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a R ⁵ , the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ -

Alkyl group and preferably methyl groups, the radicals R ^{5 are} independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C _r C ₁₆ alkyl group and preferably a hydrogen atom or a

Represents methyl, m is a number from 0-20, n is a number from O - 500, o is a number from 0-20, p is a number from 1-50, a is a number from 0-50, b is one Number represents from 0 to 50, a + b are at least 1, c represents a number from 1 to 4, particularly preferably 3, x represents a number from 1 to 100. A particularly preferred group of water-in-oil emulsifiers based on silicone according to the invention are the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones whose former INCI name was dimethicone copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG- x dimethicones (with x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones ( where a and b independently of one another are numbers from 2 to 30, preferably 3 to 30 and more preferably 12 to 20, in particular 14 to 18), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another Numbers from 10 to 25, preferably 14 to 20, and most preferably 14 to 16, and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (wherein e, f, g and h independently represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16). Particular preference is given to PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which are commercially available in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicone as DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C, PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone, sold under the name Abil B 8852 is available, as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone, which is commercially available in a mixture with Cyclomethicone as Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt), Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, under the name Abil B 8832 is available, PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxanes (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440).

Further according to the invention preferred W / O emulsifiers are silicone-based poly (C ₂ -C ₃₎ alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are modified with C ₄ -C ₈ alkyl hydrophobic, more preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicones Ethoxy Glucosides.

Among the organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymers as a water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone, certain representatives are particularly preferred.

Hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (I) in which

R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _{2 O} -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 18, b = 18, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 10 - 50. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning 190 (INCI: PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone).

Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer as silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier of the general structural formula (I), wherein

R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 12, b = 0, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 10 - 50. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning 193 (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone).

Also particularly preferred according to the invention hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain as a water-in-oil emulsifier silicone-based at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (I), wherein R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H2c -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) b R ⁵ with a = 7, b = 0, c = 2, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 0, p = 1. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene Copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Silwet L-77.

Hair-treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of general structural formula (I), where R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ θ-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ where a = 22, b = 24, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 10 Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is obtainable, for example, in a mixture with cyclomethicone under the trade name Mirasil DCMO (INCI: Cyclomethicone, PEG / PPG-22/24 Dimethicone).

Hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of general structural formula (I), wherein R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ θ-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 17, b = 18, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 10 - 50. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning Q2-5220 (INCI: PEG / PPG-17/18 Dimethicone).

Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (I), wherein

R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ θ-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 20, b = 6, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 5-50. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Abil B 88184 (INCI: PEG / PPG-20/6 Dimethicone). Also particularly preferred according to the invention hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain as a water-in-oil emulsifier silicone-based at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (I), wherein R ¹ = methyl, R ² = - C _c H applies _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ θ-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 14, b = 4, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500, p = 5-50. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Abil B 8851 (INCI: PEG / PPG-14/4 Dimethicone).

Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (II), wherein

R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 14, b = 14, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, o = 0, n = 10

500. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is obtainable, for example, in a mixture with cyclomethicones under the trade name Abil EM 97 (INCI: Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone).

Hair-treatment agents which are also preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (II) in which

R ¹ = methyl, R ² = -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ θ-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 20, b = 20, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, o = 0, n = 10

500. Such an organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer is available, for example, under the trade name Abil B 8832 (INCI: Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone).

Particularly preferred are the above explicitly mentioned organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymers of general structural formula (I) which provide better release of the active ingredient than the organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymers of general structural formula (II).

Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer at 20 ⁰ C has a water solubility of at least 5 g per 100 g of aqueous solution.

Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer has an HLB value in the range of 8-20, preferably 10-18, more preferably 11-16. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.5 - 3 wt .-%, most preferably in a total amount of 1 - 2 wt .-%, is contained, each based on the total weight of the (propellant-free) composition.

With particular preference, the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one oil body. The use of oil bodies enhances the effects according to the invention, in particular the gloss of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention. Surprisingly, the abundance is further improved, although more of a weighting would be expected.

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 12.5 wt .-% of at least one oil body.

Oil bodies which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C ₈ . ₂₂ alkanols, the C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Fettalkoholestern monovalent or polyvalent C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₀ alkanols, di-n alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one oil selected from the following groups:

the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include, preferably 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B. Cegesoft ^® C 24), hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate , Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecylacetate, n- Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate and mixtures thereof;

- the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C ₈ . ₂₂ -alkanols, wherein C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ - alkyl benzoates, z. B. the commercial product Finsolv ^® TN, isostearyl benzoate, z. B. the commercial product Finsolv ^® SB, and ethylhexyl benzoate, z. As the commercial product Finsolv ^® EB, and mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred;

the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, more preferably the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred esters based on linear C _12/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and of branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols, z. For example, di-C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alkyl malate, under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® EMI, Cosmacol ^® ESI and Cosmacol ^® ETI;

- The branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred oils are alcohol thereof, for example, hexyl decanol (for example Eutanol ^® G.), Octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, more preferably diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, Diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, and mixtures thereof;

- Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein di-n-octyl ether (eg., Cetiol ^® OE), di-n-decyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ethers and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents of the invention are characterized by containing at least one ester of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated propylisostearat from 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, Cetearylisononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl, 2 Ethyl hexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred hair treatment composition according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C ₈ _ ₂₂ - of which alkanols selected from C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, isostearyl benzoate and ethylhexyl benzoate and mixtures contain.

Further particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol ester of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid , Citric acid and salicylic acid and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol having 6 to 30 carbon atoms selected from hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dicarboxylic acid ester of linear or branched C ₂ -C 10 -alkanols selected from diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / Di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one di-n-alkyl ether having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms selected from di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether and n-octyl -n-decyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain isopropyl myristate. In particular, agents according to the invention which contain 2.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight and in particular 7.5 to 11.0% by weight, of isopropyl myristate are preferred. Particularly preferred agents according to the present invention include isopropyl myristate and a silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier of the formula

(H ₃ C) ₃ Si-O- [Si (CH ₃₎ (C ₃ H ₆ -0- (C ₂ H4θ-) ₁₈ (C3H ₆ 0-) ₁₅ CH 3) 0-] ₁ o.5o- [Si (CH3) 2-0] ₁ o.5oo-Si (CH3) 3

The agents according to the invention contain all said ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Common cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are formulated with little or no water. In particular, care products according to the invention such as hair tip fluids contain little to no water. In general, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 7.5% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight and in particular less than 2.5 Wt .-% water.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ⁰ C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent be present on the total composition. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are un branched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain cyclic dimethicones. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally comprise at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

) in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and especially 3, 4, 5 or 6.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 10 to 80% by weight, preferably 20 to 77.5% by weight, more preferably 25 to 76% by weight and in particular 30 to 75% by weight of cyclopentasiloxane ,

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to the respective cosmetic products.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess and Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. Particularly interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents. Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. As soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy (Croda), hydro Lupine (Croda), hydro Sesame (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a conditioner of another class of compounds continue cationic surfactants are suitable.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines type are preferred according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is. The cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Nurturing polymers are also suitable as a care substance. It should be noted at this point that some nourishing polymers also have film-forming and / or setting properties, and may therefore also be mentioned in the list of suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers.

A first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group are bonded via a C ^ -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH _3, R ^2, R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from CI_ ₄ alkyl, - alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group; R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups; m has the value 2. Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (meth acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1 -4 -alkyl esters and C 1 -4 -alkyl methacrylates. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. An inventively preferred copolymer is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as they are known under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® im

Trade are available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,

Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available products Q2-72424 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)

- Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer), commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

- vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

- as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Further cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferred are For example, chitosan and its derivatives, as they are freely available commercially, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF, Hydagen ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101.

According to the invention is preferably used cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycoside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiol in Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternaries ium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (Z -1) in which R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} each independently an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is a

(-) NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-2), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-2) in which R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the caring, cationic and / or amphoteric polymers in an amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total application preparation.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally care substance (s) - in terms of their weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group i. L-carnitine and / or its salts; ii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; iii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; iv. Taurine and / or its salts; v. niacinamide; vi. Ubiquinone vii. Ectoin; viii. Allantoin.

L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) - Λ /, Λ /, Λ / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance. It plays an essential role in the energy metabolism of human, animal and plant cells. L-carnitine can be obtained in various ways on an industrial scale. For example, a, the body's own biosynthesis imitating, biotechnological process: In large fermentation tanks while the precursor of L-carnitine (γ-butyrobetaine) using Gram-negative bacteria (rhizobia) in L-carnitine implemented.

As betaine, L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts. L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

Preferred hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05% by weight up to 2.5% by weight of L-carnitine or L-carnitine Carnitine derivatives containing preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

Panthenol (ILJPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body. Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5).

Preferred hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight. % and in particular 0.25 to 1 wt .-% panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).

Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R ¹ to R ^{10 are} independently of one another

Is hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

-C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Hydrocarbon radical,

-C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-,

Di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

-C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-,

Di- or triaminocarbon radical, a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated , branched or linear mono-, di- or

Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -COOR ^14, wherein R ¹⁴ represents hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or on or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono, di or triamine hydrocarbon radical,

- a group -CONR ¹⁵ R ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamine inokohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -COR ¹⁶ , where R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical, a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , where i R ¹⁷ is a methyl, C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono -, di-, trihydrocarbyl, a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical, with the proviso that for the case when R ⁷ and R ^{8 is} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} not a dihydroxyethyl radical.

In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it has been found that, in the case of the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{8 are} preferably independently of one another

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical or

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

It may furthermore be preferred for the radicals R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ in the active substance according to the formula (Fur I) and / or the formula (Fur II) according to the invention to be independently of one another

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, the compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) is (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolactone and / or D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or D, L-2-hydroxy-3 , 3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na-SaIz and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K-salt and / or 2,5-dihydro -5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone.

Another preferred care enhancer which has activating properties is taurine. Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid). Another preferred group of skin care enhancers in the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

It has been shown that certain quinones have particular suitability as a care enhancer. Particularly suitable agents according to the invention with a care effect, the care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% at least a ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

As a further care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin. Ectoine ((4S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. Agents according to the invention may preferably contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight .-% (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5-hydroxy-2-methyl - 1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

Another nurse enhancer is allantoin. Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, Λ / - (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea) is the final product of nucleic acid degradation, especially of purine, in various animal species, especially mammals, in addition to uric acid. Compositions according to the invention optionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight .-% 5-ureido-hydantoin (allantoin).

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as care-enhancing agents. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as skin care enhancers means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1, 3, 7 position. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. According to the invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they are used as care enhancers - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein preferred agents purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (Pur-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred: purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), 6-purine thiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), xanthine ( R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ) , Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ), theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

As a care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention, flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups being preferred as care enhancers because of their particularly intensive action. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.

Furthermore, it is inventively preferred to use 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof as the carboxylic acid. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen one to three C _r to C ₄ - Carries alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total application preparation, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Depending on the nature of the agent according to the invention, it may be necessary for them to further contain at least one surfactant. This is especially true for hair cleansers and shampoos. But other means, such as hair rinses, hair treatments and certain styling agents, in particular styling foams, may contain surfactants.

For example, cationic surfactants can be used, as described above as suitable care agents. With respect to the preferred cationic surfactants and the amounts used, the above statements apply accordingly.

In addition to or instead of the cationic surfactants, the agents may contain other surfactants or emulsifiers, with both anionic and ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and all types of known emulsifiers being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants may already have emulsifying effect.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in the R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C. Atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C-atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in the R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C. Atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of hydroxysulf surfactants onate, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide Fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

OR ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P --OR ² (E1 - I)

I

OX in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ^6, independently of one another, represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1 -II)

R ⁷ CO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M (EI-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III )

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₂ -SO ₃ X in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X for an alkali or alkaline earth limetall is preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1 -III) are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids, condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(~ '- or -SO _3' ^'' - Wear group Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such as N-alkyl. N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycineate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines The preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and on

Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C. Atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms.

In the alkyl group atoms, such as those available under the brand names Dehydol ^® LS

Dehydrol® ^® LT types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

glycerin,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ³ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [GJ _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length of C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut oil fatty alcohol and having a content of less than 6 wt .-% Ci ₂ - AIkOhOl can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based technical Cg _/ n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated _{C12 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

The other surfactants are generally in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt .-% and most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, based on the respective total Composition, used. The amount used depends essentially on the purpose of the agent according to the invention.

In addition to the components mentioned, the agents may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for corresponding cosmetic agents.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art. Examples

The following composition was provided by mixing the respective components:

Raw material weight%

Dow Corning 9040 ¹ 22.00

Dow Corning 5225 C ² 4.00

Isopropyl myristate 9.00

Silk protein hydrolyzate 0.20

Argan oil 0.05

Perfume 0.30

Dow Corning 9045 ³ Ad 100

1 INCI name: cyclomethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer (gel mixture of 90% by weight cyclomethicone & 10% by weight cross-linked silicone polymer) (Dow Corning)

2 INCI name: Cyclomethicone, PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Dow Corning)

3 INCI name: Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolmyer

The resulting mixture was applied to the hair of a subject and left in the hair. The hair received a velvety soft touch and gave the hairstyle structuring effect without being weight-bearing. The subject's hair was washed after evaluation with a conventional shampoo. The above recipe was easy to wash out.

Claims

claims

Hair treatment composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic carrier a) at least one silicone elastomer present in a silicone-based gel, b) at least one water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone, characterized in that the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a) to Silicon-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) greater than 1.

2. hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of silicone elastomer a) to water-in-oil emulsifier silicone-based b) in the range of 1, 25- 50, preferably 1, 5-30 and particularly preferably 2-25 , lies.

3. hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer a) is obtainable by the crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C ₂ - Ci _O -alkenyl groups having terminal double bond in each molecule, with an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 Having silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule.

4. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer a) is obtainable by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane which contains at least 2 C ₂ - Cio-alkenyl groups having terminal double bond in each molecule, with at least one alpha, omega-diene ,

5. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane having at least 2 C ₂ - Ci ₀ -Al kenyl groups having terminal double bond in the molecule is selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, Dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, methyl (3 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane-methyl- (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -siloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

6. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinking organopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms is selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes having trimethylsiloxy end groups, Dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen-siloxane copolymers.

Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains silicone elastomer (s) a) present in a silicone-based gel (t / s) in a total amount of 0.05-20 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably from 1 to 12.5% by weight, in each case based on the total cosmetic composition.

8. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer (e) selected from compounds of the general structural formulas (I), (II), (IM) , (IV) and (V)

CH, CH ₃ CH, CH ₃

I

R -Si-O- -Si-O -Si O -Si-R CH ₃ CH, CH,

(I)

where the radicals R ¹ independently of one another represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group or an optionally substituted phenyl group, • the radicals R ^{2 are} independently of one another the groups -C _c H _2c -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ or -C _c H _2o -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a R ⁵ ,

The radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ -alkyl group and preferably methyl groups,

The radicals R ⁵ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group and preferably represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

• m represents a number from 0 - 20,

• n represents a number from 0 - 500,

• o represents a number from 0 - 20,

• p represents a number from 1 to 50,

• a represents a number from 0 - 50,

• b represents a number from 0 - 50,

• a + b are at least 1,

C represents a number from 1 to 4, particularly preferred 3,

• x represents a number from 1 - 100.

9. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains as a water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in claim 6.

10. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains as water-in-oil emulsifier based on silicone at least one organosiloxane-oxyalkylene copolymer of the general structural formula (I), wherein R ¹ = methyl, R ² = - C _c H _2c -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O-) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _b R ⁵ with a = 18, b = 18, c = 3, R ⁵ = methyl, n = 10 - 500 , p = 10 - 50.

11. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(Si-1) in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and especially 3, 4, 5 or 6.

12. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 12.5 wt .-% of at least one oil body.