WO2009080623A1 - Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care containing a combination of two particular fillers and a fatty substance of high viscosity - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care containing at least one fatty phase containing: - at least one dimethicone-coated silica, at least one crosslinked starch, and at least one fatty substance the viscosity whereof at 250C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s. The composition according to the invention displays in particular improved properties of sheen and non-migration, and also with respect to quantity deposited during application.

Description

Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care containing a combination of two particular fillers and a fatty substance of high viscosity.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care, particularly of the lips. In the cosmetics field, the development of formulations endowed both with good properties with respect to application and in particular the quantity applied, and satisfactory properties with respect to sheen and non-migration.

The compounds customarily used in this type of composition to obtain sheen are viscous oils such as the polybutenes and/or pasty compounds such as diglyceryl polyacyladipate.

However, these compounds can under certain conditions pose problems of stickiness and migration. Moreover, it is known that it is possible to limit the migration of compositions through the addition of fillers. Nonetheless, it has also been observed that this addition of filler was generally effected to the detriment of the sheen of the compositions obtained.

Consequently, there still remains a need for a composition for make-up and/or care of the lips, which is acceptable from the sensory point of view and displays a satisfactory sheen while not migrating appreciably and which is deposited in satisfactory quantity during application. In fact, consumers are always looking for a shiny product, comfortable to wear for the whole day, which migrates little or not at all into the folds of the skin surrounding the lips or the eyes such as wrinkles and minor wrinkles.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that the use of a combination of two particular fillers and a non-volatile oil, and in particular a shiny or high-viscosity oil, advantageously made it possible to obtain compositions giving satisfaction in these respects.

Moreover, the inventors have observed that the combination of two specific types of filler in combination with an oil such as defined above, in particular in products intended to be applied onto the lips, makes it possible efficiently to prevent the migration of the composition applied and was particularly advantageous, especially with respect to melting on application and quantity deposited. Further, the compositions according to the invention display improved sheen properties, and are satisfactory with respect to non- migration.

More precisely, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care containing at least one fatty phase containing at least one dimethicone-coated silica, at least one crosslinked starch, and at least one fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, preferably greater than or equal to 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than or equal to 8000 mPa/s. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is solid. The term "solid" characterises the state of the composition at ambient temperature (25⁰C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention, when it is solid, displays a hardness lying between 30 and 300 g, or even from 50 to 200 g.

Protocol for measurement of shear: The measurement is performed according to the following protocol:

A sample of the composition under consideration is poured hot into a lipstick mould 11.06 mm in diameter. The mould is then cooled in the freezer for about one hour. The stick of lipstick is then stored at 2O⁰C.

The hardness of the samples is measured after standing for 24 hours. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in grams, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by Indelco-Chatillon.

The hardness corresponds to the maximal shear force exerted by a rigid tungsten wire of diameter 250 μm, advancing at a speed of 100 mm/min.

The technique described above is normally described as the so-called "butter- cutting wire" method.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 10%, or better less than 4% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is totally anhydrous.

According to another mode, the present invention relates to a process for making up wherein a product such as defined above is applied onto the lips.

Filler The composition according to the invention contains at least two fillers consisting of dimethicone-coated silica and of crosslinked starch.

Crosslinked starch The expression "crosslinked starch" is understood in the present invention to designate for example starch crosslinked with a methylol urea derivative or with octenylsuccinic anhydride or else by epichlorhydrin.

Preferably, the crosslinked starch is the octenylsuccinic anhydride marketed under the brand name Dry Flo Plus (28-1160) by National Starch. Preferably, the crosslinked starch is present in a total content ranging from

0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dimethicone-coated silica Dimethicone-coated silica contains particles of silica totally or partially coated with a dimethicone. Dimethicone (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The silica can if necessary be coated with, apart from the dimethicone, another inorganic or organic compound. Preferably, this other compound is a hydrophobic organic compound.

The dimethicone-coated silica is preferably a silica filler. Silica filler should be understood to mean dimethicone-coated particles of silica which are insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, at a temperature of 25⁰C.

The filler thus has the specific feature of not changing its structure during the process of preparation of the cosmetic composition, in contrast to a wax, which is melted in order to be mixed with the other ingredients, and which recrystallises during the cooling of the mixture.

The dimethicone-coated silica is in particular insoluble in the volatile oil of the composition. The dimethicone-coated silica is preferably in the formula of essentially spherical particles. The definition of spherical is the same as that given above.

According to one implementation mode, the silica particles are porous silica particles. The porosity of the silica particles can be characterised by a specific surface area lying between 50 and 200 m²/g, for example of the order of 100 m²/g, and an apparent density lying between 10 and 100 g/1, for example of the order of 50 g/1.

The dimethicone-coated silica is, according to one particular implementation mode, in the form of particles having an average size of 0.1 to 30 μm, and in particular from 0.5 to 20 μm, and more precisely of the order of 1 to 16 μm on average (D50).

The dimethicone-coated silica is, according to one particular implementation mode, in the form of particles having an average size of greater than 1 micron.

The dimethicone-coated silica can be purchased under the name SA-SB-300 from Miyoshi Kasei Inc., or under the name Cab-O-Sil TS-720 Treated Fumed Silica from Cabot Corporation.

The ratio between the dimethicone and the silica preferably lies between 1 and 20% by weight, for example between 5 and 10% by weight.

Preferably, the dimethicone-coated silica can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially of the order of 5% by weight.

According to a preferred implementation mode, the crosslinked starch and the dimethicone-coated silica are in a mass ratio lying between 10:90 and 90:10, preferably between 30:70 and 70:30, and in an even more preferred manner of the order of 50:50.

Advantageously, the crosslinked starch and the dimethicone-coated silica are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other fillers

The composition according to the invention can contain, apart from the dimethicone-coated silica and the crosslinked starch, at least one other filler, selected from the organic fillers and the inorganic fillers.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a total content of filler ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially of the order of 5% by weight.

In the sense of the present invention, fillers should be understood to mean colourless or white, inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers are in particular used to modify the rheological properties or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be inorganic or organic and of any shape, platelets, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example laminar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc). Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel

Industrie), of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles of elastomeric polyorgano- siloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, or else polyurethane particles, also referred to as polyurethane powder, can be cited.

The expression "polyurethane particles" is understood in the present invention to refer to particles consisting of a material at least in part of the polyurethane type. They are advantageously in a crosslinked form.

The particles used in the present invention have, according to one particular implementation mode, an average size ranging from 4 to 20 μm, and in particular from 5 to 15 μm. The fillers (particles) used in the present invention are generally and preferably approximately spherical.

The expression "spherical" is understood to mean an essentially spherical shape, especially in the form of beads, preferably of particle size lying between 1 and 15 microns, preferably of the order of 10 microns.

According to one particular implementation mode, the particles of polyurethane used are particles containing a copolymer, the said copolymer containing trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it can be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name Plastic Powder D-400^® or Plastic Powder D-800^® from Toshiki.

Fatty phase:

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention corresponds to the totality of the fatty substances of the composition and it contains in particular at least one fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s C, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

According to the invention, the fatty substance, the viscosity whereof is greater than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C, is selected from the pastes and non-volatile oils, which will be referred to as "high-viscosity non-volatile oils" or "high-viscosity oil".

Protocol for measurement of viscosity:

The shear viscosity measurement was performed on an ARES (controlled- strain) viscometer equipped with an acrylic cone-plate device and a Peltier effect heating system. The measurement is performed by shear gradient scanning over the range from 1 to 1000 s^"1.

The diameter of the acrylic plate is 50 mm and the cone angle is 0.04 radian for low-viscosity oils. A 25 mm plate and a cone angle of 0.10 radian are used for the other samples. All the measurements are taken at 25 and 35⁰C.

Before each measurement, stabilization of the samples is confirmed by observing the stabilization of the response in oscillation at 1 Hz for 600 seconds or longer if necessary. The shear viscosity is determined by the value of η on the plateau of the viscosity curve expressed relative to the experienced strain.

According to a first implementation mode, the fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s, is a pasty fatty substance. In general, all pasty fatty substances have a viscosity at 25⁰C greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s.

Pasty Substances:

"Pasty", in the sense of the present invention, is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound at reversible solid/liquid change of state, displaying an anisotropic crystalline organisation in the solid state, and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at the temperature of 23⁰C.

In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23⁰C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23⁰C can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23⁰C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85%, by weight.

In the sense of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or of a wax can be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or of wax (depending on the case) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase passing from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100⁰C to -2O⁰C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase passing from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of wax as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23⁰C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23⁰C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the whole of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when the whole of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S. C) such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature increase of 5 or 1O⁰C per minute, in accordance with the standard ISO 11357- 3; 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy necessary to make the compound pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23⁰C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample in order to pass from the solid state to the state it displays at 23⁰C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32⁰C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32⁰C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32⁰C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32⁰C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32⁰C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32⁰C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23⁰C.

The pasty compound in the sense of the invention can have a hardness at 2O⁰C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular by means of a texture analyser (for example the TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of 2 mm diameter. The hardness measurement is performed at 2O⁰C at the centre of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre- velocity of 1 mm/s then at a measurement velocity of 0.1 mm/s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The hardness value recorded is that of the maximum peak. The measurement protocol is as follows:

The fatty substance the melting point whereof is greater than 25⁰C (paste or wax depending on the case) is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the fatty substance + 1O⁰C. The melted fatty substance is poured into a vessel of 25 mm diameter and 20 mm depth. It is recrystallised at ambient temperature (25⁰C) for 24 hours in such a manner that the surface of the fatty substance is flat and smooth, then the fatty substance is kept for at least 1 hour at 2O⁰C before measuring the hardness or the stickiness.

The mobile probe of the texturometer is moved at the velocity of 0.1 mm/s, then penetrates into the fatty substance to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the probe has penetrated into the fatty substance to the depth of 0.3 mm, the probe is kept immobile for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time), then is withdrawn at the velocity of

0.5 mm/s.

The hardness value is the maximal measured compression force divided by the area of the cylinder of the texturometer in contact with the fatty substance. The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance can be advantageously selected from: lanoline and derivatives thereof silicone compounds whether or not polymeric fluorinated compounds whether or not polymeric vinyl polymers, especially: • homopolymers of olefins

. copolymers of olefins

. homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes . linear or branched oligomers, homo- or copolymers of alkyl

(meth)acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group • homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups . homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols, esters, and mixtures thereof. Among the esters, the following are especially preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, especially esters of diglycerol, in particular condensation products of adipic acid and glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, particularly in the form of those marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol, arachidyl propionate marked under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - esters of phytosterol, triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, esters of pentaerythritol, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or carboxylic polyacid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid by an aliphatic carboxylic acid, polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid, the said ester containing at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H^®, and Risocast DA-L^®, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soya sterols and of ethoxylated (5EO) propoxylated (5PO) pentaerythritol, marketed under the name Lanolide by VEVY, will preferably be selected.

According to one implementation mode, the composition contains less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 7%, better less than 5%, and still better less than 3% by weight of pasty fatty substance relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition is totally free from pasty fatty substances.

Oil of viscosity greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C

According to a second implementation mode, the fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s, is a non- volatile oil referred to as "nonvolatile oil of high viscosity" or more simply "high- viscosity oil".

Preferably, the high-viscosity oil is a shiny oil.

Shiny oil

The shiny oil is preferably a non-volatile oil. "Oil" is understood to mean a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at ambient temperature (25⁰C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). "Non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil remaining on keratinic materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapour pressure less than 10^"3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). The shiny oil preferably has a high molecular weight ranging from 650 to 10000 g/mol, and preferably between 750 and 7500 g/mol.

The shiny oil utilisable in the present invention can be selected from:

- lipophilic polymers such as:

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (of molecular weight or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) marketed or produced by Amoco,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E marketed or produced by Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or produced by Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or produced by Witco (MW=IOOO g/mol), - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) marketed or produced by Mobil Chemicals,

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as: the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer Antaron -216 marketed or produced by ISP (MW=7300 g/mol),

- esters such as:

- esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697 g/mol),

- hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW=965 g/mol),

- aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757 g/mol), - esters of branched C₂₄-C₂S fatty alcohols or fatty acids such as those described in the application EP-A-O 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM=891 g/mol), glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW=I 143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g/mol), - a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which can be unsaturated, such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid marketed under the name Zenigloss by Zenitech, - dimer diol and dimer diacid esters of general formula HO-R¹-(-OCO-R²-COO-R¹-)h-

OH, wherein:

R¹ represents a dimer diol residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic acid residue, and h represents an integer varying from 1 to 9, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic dimer diols marketed by

Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-D A5^® and DD-DA7^®,

- silicone oils such as phenylated silicones such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW=9000 g/mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones and diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes;

- oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (MW=820 g/mol),

- and mixtures thereof.

According to this implementation mode, the composition thus contains at least one shiny oil, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

Preferably, the high-viscosity fatty substance (or the high-viscosity oil, and thus the shiny oil in the case where it is a high-viscosity oil or more a precisely a shiny oil can represent from 1 to 99%, preferably from 20 to 90%, and better from 30 to 85% and better still more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the shiny oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and especially ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.

According to a preferred implementation mode, the composition contains at least two different oils of viscosity greater than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s at 25⁰C or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s at 25⁰C.

According to an advantageous implementation mode, the composition contains at least one pasty fatty substance and at least one oil the viscosities whereof at 25⁰C are greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

Other oils The composition according to the invention can contain additional oils, which can be non-volatile, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is less than 1000 mPa/s, which can be hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils. The composition according to the invention can thus contain an additional oil independently of the presence of a shiny oil.

These oils can be of plant, inorganic or synthetic origin.

"Hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. "Silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one atom of silicon, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

As examples of additional non-volatile oils, that can be used in the invention, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is less than 1000 mPa/s, the following can be cited: - plant hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of inorganic or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, and vaseline; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, and oleyl alcohol; fluorinated oils, which can be partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone; silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethyl- siloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, within or at the end of a silicone chain, or groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; fatty acids having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic acid; and mixtures thereof.

The additional non- volatile oil, the viscosity whereof is less than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C, can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight, better from 5 to 50% by weight and still better from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can further contain at least one volatile oil, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is less than 1000 mPa/s.

"Volatile oil" in the sense of the invention is understood to mean an oil capable of evaporation on contact with keratinic materials in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent or solvents and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10^~3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

In general, all the volatile oils have a viscosity less than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C.

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from the hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially the branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 alkanes derived from petroleum (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is selected from the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10^~6 m²/s), and having in particular from 2 to 1 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils utilisable in the invention, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl- octyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a content of volatile oil less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% and better less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition is free from volatile oil.

Preferably, the composition according to is free from silicone oil, whatever the viscosity thereof.

Physiologically acceptable medium

The composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is nontoxic and which can be applied onto the lips of human beings. In the sense of the invention,

"cosmetically acceptable" is understood to mean a composition of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.

Structuring agent

The composition according to the invention can contain, apart from the silicone polyamide(s) described above, a structuring agent selected from the waxes, semi- crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. It is understood that the quantity of these additional compounds can be adjusted by the person skilled in the art in such a manner as not to prejudice the effect sought in the context of the present invention.

Wax(es)

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at ambient temperature (25⁰C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 3O⁰C which can range up to 200⁰C and especially up to 12O⁰C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can exhibit a melting point greater than or equal to 45⁰C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55⁰C.

In the sense of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name

"MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase passing from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100⁰C to -2O⁰C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase passing from -2O⁰C to 100⁰C at a heating rate of

5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are selected from the waxes which are solid at ambient temperature and of animal, plant, inorganic or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. By way of illustration of waxes suitable for the invention, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanoline wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and esters thereof can in particular be cited.

Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains can also be cited. Among these, isomerised jojoba oil such as the trans isomerised partially hydrogenated jojoba oil produced or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50^®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanoline oil and the di-(trimethylol- 1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S^® by Heterene can in particular be cited.

Silicone waxes (C₃₀-₄₅ Alkyl Dimethicone) and fluorinated waxes can also be cited.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® by Sophim can also be used. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A- 2792190.

As the wax, a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used alone or in a mixture.

Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P^®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P^®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P^®" by Koster Keunen. As micro waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, carnauba micro waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350^® by Micro Powders, micro waxes of synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S^® by Micro Powders, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300^® and 310^® by Micro Powders, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325^® by Micro Powders, polyethylene micro waxes such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200^®, 220^®, 220L^® and 250S^® by Micro Powders and polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519^® and 519 L^® by Micro Powders can in particular be cited. The composition according to the invention can have a content of waxes ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it can contain from 0.5 to 15%, more particularly from 1 to 10%, of them.

Semi-crystalline polymers

Semi-crystalline polymer is understood to mean compounds comprising at least two, preferably at least 3 and more especially at least 10 repeating structures. "Semi- crystalline polymer" is understood to mean polymers comprising a crystallisable part, a crystallisable side-chain or a crystallisable sequence in the skeleton and an amorphous part in the skeleton and exhibiting a first order temperature of reversible phase change, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallisable part is in the form of a crystallisable sequence of the polymer skeleton, the amorphous part of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in that case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer for example of the dibloc, tribloc or multibloc type, comprising at least one crystallisable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence. "Sequence" is understood to mean in general at least 5 identical repeating structures. The crystallisable sequence or sequences are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence or sequences.

The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 3O⁰C (especially ranging from 3O⁰C to 8O⁰C), preferably ranging from 3O⁰C to 6O⁰C. This melting point is a first order change of state temperature.

This melting point can be measured by any known method and in particular by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S. C).

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers to which the invention applies have a number averaged molecular weight greater than or equal to 1,000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers of the composition of the invention have a number averaged molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number averaged molecular weight greater than 5,600, ranging for example from 5,700 to 99,000. In the sense of the invention, "chain or crystallisable sequence" is understood to mean a chain or sequence which if it were alone would pass reversibly from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, depending on whether it is above or below the melting point. A chain in the sense of the invention is a group of atoms, within or lateral with regard to the skeleton of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, a group constituting one of the repeating structures of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallisable side-chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

The semi-crystalline polymer can be selected from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallisable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallisable lateral chain per repeating structure, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are for example described in the document EP 1396259.

According to a more particular implementation mode of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallisable chain selected from the saturated Ci₄to C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates.

As a specific example of a structuring semi-crystalline polymer utilisable in the composition according to the invention, the products Intelimer® from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) can be cited. These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25⁰C). They bear crystallisable side- chains.

Lipophilic gelling agents

The gelling agents utilisable in the compositions according to the invention can be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, clays, possibly modified, such as hectorites modified with a C_1O to C₂₂ ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as for example that marketed under the name Bentone

38V^® by Elementis, can also be cited.

Pyrogenic silica, which may have been subjected to hydrophobic surface treatment, the particles size whereof is less than 1 μm, can also be cited. It is in fact possible chemically to modify the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction causing a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8^th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the names Aerosil R812^® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530^® by Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8^th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the names Aerosil R972^® and Aerosil R974^® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610^® and Cab-O- SiI TS-720^® by Cabot.

Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica exhibits in particular a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for example partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6^®, KSG16^® and KSG18^® by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E- 505C^® and Trefil E-506C^® by Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC^®, SR DMF10^®, SR- DC556^®, SR 5CYC gel^®, SR DMF 10 gel^® and SR DC 556 gel^® by Grant Industries, SF 1204^® and JK 113^® by General Electric; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel^® by Dow Chemical; galactommanans containing from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per ose, whether or not substituted with a saturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to Ce and in particular Ci to C₃ alkyl chains and mixtures thereof; sequenced copolymers of the "dibloc", "tribloc" or "radial" type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or, polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB^® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene- propylene) type such as those marketed under the name Kraton^® by Shell Chemical Co or else of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of tribloc and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those marketed by Penreco under the name Versagel^® such as for example the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene tribloc copolymer and ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, esters of dextrin and fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL^® or Rheopearl KL^® by Chiba Flour can also be cited.

Aqueous phase

According to a first implementation mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention can contain an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the dispersed phase of the composition. The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water; it can also comprise a mixture of water and solvent miscible with water (miscibility with water greater than 50% by weight at 25⁰C) such as the lower mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones, C₂-C₄ aldehydes and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase (water and possibly the solvent miscible with water) can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from

3% to 60% by weight. The composition according to the invention can also contain less than 10% by weight or even less than 4% by weight of aqueous phase or of water, or even be totally anhydrous.

Active substances The composition according to the invention can further contain at least one active substance. "Active substance" is understood to mean a compound having a cosmetic and/or dermatological effect, in particular on the lips.

This active substance can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. The active substance can be water-soluble. Thus, the active substance present in the composition according to the invention can be independently selected from: - skin relaxant agents, - agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing the degradation thereof,

- anti-glycation agents,

- anti-irritant agents, - moisturising agents,

- desquamating agents

- agents modifying pigmentation,

- NO synthase inhibitors,

- agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes,

- anti-pollution or anti-radical agents,

- soothing agents,

- agents acting on the microcirculation,

- agents acting on the energy metabolism of the cells, - healing agents, and

- mixtures thereof.

The active agents used may especially be collagen derivatives, extracts of flowers (such as lotus), algal extracts or tocopheryl acetate. The quantity of active substance(s) ranges for example from 0.0001 to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Filmogenic agent

The compositions can contain at least one filmogenic polymer.

According to one implementation mode, the composition contains at least one polymer which can be selected from the filmogenic polymers.

In the sense of the invention, "polymer" is understood to mean a compound having at least 2 repeating structures, and preferably at least 3 repeating structures. "Filmogenic" polymer is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, in itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinic materials.

The polymer can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight.

In one implementation mode, the filmogenic organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group containing: filmogenic polymers soluble in a liquid organic medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the liquid organic medium contains at least one oil; filmogenic polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of particles of polymers, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one implementation mode, the non-aqueous dispersions of polymer contain particles of polymers stabilised on their surface by at least one stabilising agent; filmogenic polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer, often referred to as "latex"; in this case, the composition contains an aqueous phase; water-soluble filmogenic polymers; in this case, the composition contains an aqueous phase.

Among the filmogenic polymers utilisable in the composition of the present invention, synthetic polymers, of the radical or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof can be cited. As filmogenic polymers, acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and polyamide copolymers, and polyisoprenes can in particular be cited.

It is understood that the quantity of these additional compounds can be adjusted by the person skilled in the art in such a manner as not to prejudice the effect sought in the context of the present invention. Colouring agents

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can contain a colouring agent which can be selected from the water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can further contain one or more colouring materials selected from the water-soluble colorants, and colouring materials in powder form such as the pigments, nacres, and flakes well known to the person skilled in the art. The colouring materials can be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

Pigments should be understood to mean white or coloured, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resultant film.

The pigments can be present at a level of 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments utilisable in the invention, the oxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium and the oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, iron blue, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromium hydrate can be cited.

It can also be a pigment having a structure which can be for example of the sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the name Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals and Catalysts and exhibits a contrast ratio of about 30.

The colouring material can also comprise a pigment having a structure which can for example be of the iron oxide-containing silica microsphere type. An example of a pigment exhibiting this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the name PC Ball PC- LL- 100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments utilisable in the invention, carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium or else the diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in the documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A- 96/08537 can be cited.

"Nacres" should be understood to mean coloured particles of any shape, whether or not iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesised and which exhibit a colour effect through optical interference.

The nacres can be selected from the nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be particles of mica on the surface whereof there are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colouring materials.

As examples of nacres, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride can also be cited. Among the nacres available on the market, the nacres Timica, Flamenco and

Duochrome (mica-based) marketed by Engelhard, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, the mica-based nacres Prestige marketed by Eckart and the synthetic mica-based nacres Sunshine marketed by Sun Chemical can be cited.

More particularly, the nacres can have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper colour or sheen.

As an illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, the gold-coloured nacres marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres marketed in particular by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown tint marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres of copper sheen marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres of red sheen marketed in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres of yellow sheen marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted nacres of gold sheen marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres of gold sheen marketed in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres marketed in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres of silver sheen marketed in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the orange pink green-gold nacres marketed in particular by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited.

"Dyes" should be understood to mean compounds, generally organic, soluble in fatty substances, such as oils or in a water-alcohol phase.

The first and/or second cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain water-soluble or liposoluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are for example beetroot juice and methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say standardised and stabilised such as that produced by normal colouring materials such as for example the monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, "stabilised" means devoid of colour variability effect with the angle of observation or else in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material can be selected from particles with metallic sheen, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and fibres, especially interference fibres. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to produce the simultaneous display of two effects, or even of a new effect according to the invention. The particles with metallic sheen utilisable in the invention are in particular selected from: particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic, single material or multi- material substrate, coated at least partially with at least one metallic sheen layer containing at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of the said particles.

Among the metals which can be present in the said particles, for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof can be cited. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" is used to refer to compounds derived from metals especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

As an illustration of these particles, particles of aluminium, such as those marketed under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC^® by Siberline and Metalure^® by Eckart can be cited.

Metal powders of copper or of mixtures of alloys such as reference numbers 2844 marketed by Radium Bronze, metal pigments such as aluminium or bronze, such as those marketed under the names Rotosafe 700 by Eckart, particles of aluminium coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Silver by Eckart and particles of metal alloy such as bronze powders (alloy of copper and zinc) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold by Eckart can also be cited.

They can also be particles containing a glass substrate such as those marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass under the names Microglass Metashine. The goniochromatic colouring agent can for example be selected from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colouring agents.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures utilisable in compositions created according to the invention are for example the following structures: Al/Siθ₂/Al/Siθ₂/Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by Dupont de Nemours; CrZMgF₂ZAlZMgF₂ZCr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name Chromaflair by Flex; MoS₂ZSiO₂ZAlZSiO₂ZMoS₂; Fe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZAlZSiO₂ZFe₂O₃ and Fe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZFe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZFe₂O₃, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoSi/SiOi/mica-oxide/SiOi/MoSi; Fe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZnTiCa- oxide/Siθ2/Fe₂O₃; TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂ and TiO₂ZAl₂O₃ZTiO₂; SnOZTiO₂ZSiO₂ZTiO₂ZSnO; Fe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZFe₂O₃; SnOZnTiCaZTiO₂ZSiO₂ZTiO₂ZnTiCaZSnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name Xirona by Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments can be the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZtin oxide structure marketed under the name Xirona Magic by Merck, the pigments of silicaZbrown iron oxide structure marketed under the name Xirona Indian Summer by Merck and the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZmicaZtin oxide structure marketed under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by Merck. The pigments Infinite Colour from Shiseido can also be cited. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe₂O₃ZSiO₂ZAlZ SiO₂ZFe₂O₃ there is a change from gold-green to grey- red for 320 to 350 nm layers of SiO₂; from red to gold for 380 to 400 nm layers of SiO₂; from violet to green for 410 to 420 nm layers of SiO₂; and from copper to red for 430 to 440 nm layers of SiO₂. As examples of pigments of polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by

3M under the name Color Glitter can be cited.

As goniochromatic liquid crystal particles, for example those sold by Chenix and that marketed under the name Helicone^® HC by Wacker can be used.

Additional usual cosmetic ingredients

The composition according to the invention can further contain any usual cosmetic ingredient which can in particular be selected from the antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralising agents, surfactant substances, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturising agents, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active substances, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active substances, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, filmogenic agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select any supplementary ingredients andZor the quantity thereof in such a manner that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention takes the form of a solid foundation, lipstick stick or paste, eye shadow-concealing product, eye anti-wrinkle product, eyeliner, mascara, eyeshadow, body make-up product or else a skin colouring product. In particular, the composition of the invention can take the form of a coloured product for making up the lips such as a lipstick, a lip sheen or a pencil, possibly having care or treatment properties. It can take the form of an anhydrous stick.

The invention also relates to a process for make-up or care of the skin and/or of the lips and/or of the integuments, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied.

Finally, the invention also relates to the utilisation of dimethicone-coated silica and of crosslinked starch in the presence of a fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s, such as defined above, to prepare a cosmetic composition for the skin and/or the lips and/or the integuments, suitable for obtaining a film the quantity deposited and the sheen whereof are improved.

The composition according to the invention can be produced by the known processes, generally utilised in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be produced by the following process.

In a first stage, the fillers and the pigments can be ground in a portion of the oily phase.

The rest of the liposoluble ingredients can then be mixed at a temperature of the order of 100⁰C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed active substances can then be added to the oily phase.

Any hydrophilic active substances can then be dispersed by means of a mechanical stirrer.

Finally, the composition can be poured into a mould suitable for giving it its final shape (for example as a stick) and the whole can be allowed to cool at ambient temperature and/or in a freezer. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples given by way of illustration and which are not of a restrictive nature. The percentages are percentages by weight.

Example 1 : Lipstick in stick form

The lipstick formulation according to the invention (composition 1) is prepared according to the following protocol:

In a first stage, the fillers and the pigments are ground in a portion of the oily phase.

The rest of the liposoluble ingredients are then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100⁰C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed active substances are then added to the oily phase.

Finally, the composition is poured into a mould making it possible to obtain sticks of 11.06 mm diameter and the whole is allowed to cool in a freezer for about one hour.

The lipstick created with composition 1 is satisfactory with respect to quantity deposited during application, and with respect to sheen.

Example 2 (comparative): Lipstick in stick form

The following lipstick (comparative composition 2) was prepared according to the same protocol as before. Composition 2 is identical to that of the formula 1, with the difference that the dimethicone-coated silica was replaced by modified starch.

It is found that the comparative composition 2 exhibits a hardness slightly less than that of the composition 1 according to the invention.

The quantity deposited during application with the composition 2 is similar to that deposited with the composition 1 according to the invention. However, the deposit created with the second composition is less shiny than with the composition 1 according to the invention.

Example 3 (comparative): Lipstick in stick form

The following lipstick (composition 3) was prepared according to the same protocol as described above. Composition 3 is identical with that of formula 1, with the difference that the starch has been replaced with dimethicone-coated silica.

It is found that the comparative composition 3 exhibits a hardness similar to that of the composition 1 according to the invention.

However, the quantity deposited during application with the comparative composition 3 is less than that deposited with the composition 1 according to the invention, and the deposit created with the comparative composition 3 is less shiny than with the composition 1 according to the invention. Example 4 (comparative): Lipstick in stick form

The following lipstick (composition 4) was prepared according to the same protocol as described above. Composition 4 is identical to that of formula 1, with the difference that all the fatty substances the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s were replaced by oils (already present in composition 1, but in smaller quantities) the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is less than 1000 mPa/s.

It is found that the comparative composition 4 exhibits a hardness slightly less than that of the composition 1 according to the invention. Moreover, the quantity deposited during application with the comparative composition 4 is less than that deposited with the composition 1 according to the invention, and finally the deposit created with comparative composition 4 is less shiny than with the composition 1 according to the invention.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care containing at least one fatty phase containing: at least one dimethicone-coated silica, at least one crosslinked starch, and at least one fatty substance, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

2. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said crosslinked starch is octenylsuccinic anhydride.

3. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said fatty substance is selected from the non-volatile oils and the pasty fatty substances.

4. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.

5. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said fatty substance is a non- volatile oil.

6. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said non- volatile oil is a shiny oil.

7. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said shiny oil is selected from the polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes, hydrogenated polydecenes, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl tri-2- decyltetradecanoate, phenylated silicones, and plant oils such as sesame oil.

8. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said shiny oil is selected from bis diglyceryl adipate-2, polyvinylpyrrolidone hexadecene copolymer, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate and hydrogenated polyisobutylene.

9. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said fatty substance, and therefore if necessary the said non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 20 to 90%, preferably from 30 to 85%, or else greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least one pasty fatty substance and at least one non-volatile oil, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

11. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least two non-volatile oils, the viscosity whereof at 25⁰C is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa/s, or preferably greater than 5000 mPa/s or better still greater than 8000 mPa/s.

12. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the dimethicone-coated silica is in the form of porous silica particles totally or partially coated with dimethicone.

13. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the dimethicone-coated silica is in the form of particles of average size ranging from 0.1 to 30 μm, and in particular from 0.5 to 20 μm, and more precisely of the order of 1 to 16 μm on average.

14. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the dimethicone-coated silica is in the form of particles of average size greater than 1 micron.

15. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that, in the dimethicone-coated silica, the ratio between the dimethicone and the silica preferably lies between 1 and 20% by weight, for example between 5 and 10% by weight.

16. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the dimethicone-coated silica is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the crosslinked starch is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the crosslinked starch and the dimethicone-coated silica are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, in particular from 0.1% to 30%, more particularly from 0.1 to 15%, or even from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the crosslinked starch and the dimethicone-coated silica are in a mass ratio lying between 10:90 and 90:10, preferably between 30:70 and 70:30, and in an even more preferred manner of the order of 50:50.

20. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it further contains at least one additional oil, the viscosity whereof is less than 1000 mPa/s.

21. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said additional oil, the viscosity whereof is less than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C, is a nonvolatile oil.

22. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said additional oil, the viscosity whereof is less than 1000 mPa/s at 25⁰C, is a volatile oil.

23. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21, characterised in that it contains less than 2%, or even less than 1%, or else is totally free from volatile oil.

24. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that it contains less than 10%, or, better, less than 4%, of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is totally anhydrous.

25. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least one wax.

26. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least one colouring agent at a level of 0.01 to 40%, especially from

0.01 to 30%, and in particular from 0.05 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the said product.

27. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that the said colouring agent is selected from the pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

28. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least one semi-crystalline polymer.

29. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it contains at least one active substance.

30. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that the said composition is in solid form.

31. Composition according to the previous claim, characterised in that it displays a hardness lying between 30 and 300 g, or even from 50 to 200 g.

32. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it is in the form of products cast into sticks or into dishes.

33. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that it is in the form of a solid foundation, lipstick stick or paste, eye shadow- concealing product, eye anti-wrinkle product, eyeliner, mascara, eyeshadow, body make-up product or else a skin colouring product.

34. Process for make-up or care of the skin and/or of the lips and/or of the integuments, wherein a composition as defined according to any one of the previous claims is applied.

35. Use of a filler in combination with a nonpolar wax and an ester wax, as defined in Claims 1 to 30, to prepare a cosmetic composition for the skin and/or the lips and/or the integuments, suitable for obtaining a film the deposition and the sheen whereof are improved.