WO2009052536A2 - A neutralising composition for hair - Google Patents

A neutralising composition for hair Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009052536A2
WO2009052536A2 PCT/ZA2008/000089 ZA2008000089W WO2009052536A2 WO 2009052536 A2 WO2009052536 A2 WO 2009052536A2 ZA 2008000089 W ZA2008000089 W ZA 2008000089W WO 2009052536 A2 WO2009052536 A2 WO 2009052536A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
neutralising
mass
concentration
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/ZA2008/000089
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2009052536A3 (en
Inventor
Maria Domenica Laughland
Original Assignee
Maria Domenica Laughland
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Maria Domenica Laughland filed Critical Maria Domenica Laughland
Publication of WO2009052536A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009052536A2/en
Publication of WO2009052536A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009052536A3/en
Priority to ZA2010/02495A priority Critical patent/ZA201002495B/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a hair cosmetic neutralising composition.
  • This invention relates to a hair cosmetic neutralising composition in the form of a buffer, configured to neutralize an alkali based agent used during hair treatment such as hair relaxation treatment.
  • Keratin is found on the outer layers of human hair and skin cells. Keratin is characterised by an amino acid composition with high sulphur content relative to other proteins. Keratin derives its strength for elastic disulphide bonds formed between sulphur containing amino acid residues (cysteine). Skin has soft keratin whilst hair has hard keratin; the difference is as a result of higher sulphur content in hair protein compared to skin protein.
  • each hair at the root within a scalp forms coil like structure. These coils then twist around each other through the formation of disulphide linkages between adjacent cysteine residues, and increasing in size to form microfibrils then macrofibrils and finally cortical fibres.
  • This entire structure is encapsulated by flattened cells called cuticle cells.
  • Disulphide bounds are important during hair relaxation as they undergo a chemical reduction followed by chemical oxidation. Hair relaxation may be referred to as “hair reformation", in “hair reformation” the disulphide bounds are broken down and reformed with the hair in a new shape.
  • Hair reformation in “hair reformation” the disulphide bounds are broken down and reformed with the hair in a new shape.
  • Chemical treatment of hair for example by an alkali is known to disrupt the disulphide bonds (reduction).
  • the alkalinity of the reducing agent determines the extent to which the hydrolysis occurs. This is important since the extent of disulphide linkage reformation during oxidation is determined by the extent to which hydrolysis occurred.
  • a hair strand is either bent or straightened to a desirable aesthetic cosmetic texture.
  • a neutralizing shampoo is used to end the treatment.
  • the applicant is aware of an incidence of scalp burns resultant from alkalis used during the reduction phase.
  • the scalp is composed of soft keratin which is vulnerable to destruction on contact with alkali, for example in some instances resulting in extensive scalp damage.
  • the inventor is also aware that neutralising compositions used during hair relaxation in the marketplace are in the form of acidic shampoos.
  • a neutralisation process is monitored by a calometrical means, for example the neutralisation of an alkali by the acidic shampoo effects a gradual colour change. Often the burn sensation is sensed by a person before the treatment is ready for the shampoo step, which would end the relaxation treatment on part of the scalp.
  • the applicant has identified a need for a temporary spray-on neutralising composition capable of neutralising excess alkali immediately after a burn sensation is sensed on the scalp. It is an object of this invention to provide a neutralising composition for temporary relief while alkaline base hair treatment such as hair relaxation process is in progress.
  • a sprayable hair neutralising composition which composition includes; water and an organic aqueous buffer.
  • the composition may include any one or more weak acids.
  • the organic acidic buffer [pH 2-4] may be selected from one or more acids at about 0.3 % in aqueous solution for example; isolactic, lactic, phosphoric and succinic and fulvic acids.
  • the buffered solution has a high capacity for removing hydroxides, which reacts with scalp cells to invoke a nerve response in the form of the burning sensation.
  • the composition may include any one or more components, for example, selected from any one or more of Hydroxymethyl Cellulose, Glycerine, Alkyl Dimethicone, Lanolin, Cetronium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, 2- Acetylaminoethanol or a perfume based solvent.
  • the composition may include a chelating agent.
  • the chelating agent may be selected from any one or more of Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium (EDTA), N, N'-ethylenediaminediacetic acid (“H 2 EDDA”) and 1 , 2- diaminocyclohexane-N, N, N', N'-tetraacetic acid salts.
  • the composition may include a low concentration of organic acids in excess of 0.003% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between of 0.001-0.008 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low concentration of EDTA acid salt concentration in excess of 0.001 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.001-0.003 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low concentration of Hydroxyethyl Cellulose in excess of 0.01 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low lanolin concentration in excess of 0.01% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low cetrimonium chloride concentration in excess of 0.0125% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low propylene glycol concentration in excess of 0.01 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low 2-Acetylaminoethanol concentration in excess of 0.02% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.03 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low Alkyl Dimethicone concentration in excess of 0.02% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.03 % by mass.
  • the composition may include a low perfume concentration in excess of 0.03% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.05 % by mass.
  • a user may be able spray a part of the person's scalp once the burning sensation is sensed.
  • the neutralising solution would then immediately neutralise the alkali at that part of the scalp without having to wash the user's hair and end the relaxing treatment.
  • the advantage of using the neutralizing composition is that buffering effect and narrow pH range of the organic acids does not damage the scalp.
  • a device which includes a container which is configured to spray the composition as described above and the composition as described above.
  • a third aspect of the invention there is provided the use of the buffered solution for intermediate relief by a person undergoing alkaline treatment.
  • the invention can also be used to neutralise other alkali or acid based treatments such as bleaching, perms and colouring treatments.
  • An example of a sprayable hair cosmetic composition includes: 9

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a composition and device for preventing localised burn sensations experienced during hair relaxing treatment. The composition is sprayable, which composition includes water and an organic aqueous buffer.

Description

A HAIR COSMETIC NEUTRALISING COMPOSITION
Field of the Invention
This invention relates to a hair cosmetic neutralising composition.
Technical field of the invention
This invention relates to a hair cosmetic neutralising composition in the form of a buffer, configured to neutralize an alkali based agent used during hair treatment such as hair relaxation treatment.
Background of the Invention
Keratin is found on the outer layers of human hair and skin cells. Keratin is characterised by an amino acid composition with high sulphur content relative to other proteins. Keratin derives its strength for elastic disulphide bonds formed between sulphur containing amino acid residues (cysteine). Skin has soft keratin whilst hair has hard keratin; the difference is as a result of higher sulphur content in hair protein compared to skin protein.
In the germinal matrix of a hair follicle, each hair at the root within a scalp forms coil like structure. These coils then twist around each other through the formation of disulphide linkages between adjacent cysteine residues, and increasing in size to form microfibrils then macrofibrils and finally cortical fibres.
This entire structure is encapsulated by flattened cells called cuticle cells.
Hydrogen bonds, Van der Waal forces and electrical dipoles contribute to the dimensional structure of hair, thus imparting to its strength and elasticity. Disulphide bounds are important during hair relaxation as they undergo a chemical reduction followed by chemical oxidation. Hair relaxation may be referred to as "hair reformation", in "hair reformation" the disulphide bounds are broken down and reformed with the hair in a new shape. Chemical treatment of hair for example by an alkali is known to disrupt the disulphide bonds (reduction).The alkalinity of the reducing agent determines the extent to which the hydrolysis occurs. This is important since the extent of disulphide linkage reformation during oxidation is determined by the extent to which hydrolysis occurred. For example a stronger alkali will only result in the formation of a weaker lanthionine bond whilst a weaker alkali will only result in partial disulphide bond reformation in some residues after oxidation. Accordingly, a hair strand is either bent or straightened to a desirable aesthetic cosmetic texture. After the alkaline treatment is completed, a neutralizing shampoo is used to end the treatment.
The applicant is aware of an incidence of scalp burns resultant from alkalis used during the reduction phase. The scalp is composed of soft keratin which is vulnerable to destruction on contact with alkali, for example in some instances resulting in extensive scalp damage.
The inventor is also aware that neutralising compositions used during hair relaxation in the marketplace are in the form of acidic shampoos. The applicant is also aware that a neutralisation process is monitored by a calometrical means, for example the neutralisation of an alkali by the acidic shampoo effects a gradual colour change. Often the burn sensation is sensed by a person before the treatment is ready for the shampoo step, which would end the relaxation treatment on part of the scalp.
The applicant has identified a need for a temporary spray-on neutralising composition capable of neutralising excess alkali immediately after a burn sensation is sensed on the scalp. It is an object of this invention to provide a neutralising composition for temporary relief while alkaline base hair treatment such as hair relaxation process is in progress.
Summary of the Invention
Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a sprayable hair neutralising composition, which composition includes; water and an organic aqueous buffer.
The composition may include any one or more weak acids. The organic acidic buffer [pH 2-4] may be selected from one or more acids at about 0.3 % in aqueous solution for example; isolactic, lactic, phosphoric and succinic and fulvic acids.
It is to be appreciated that the buffered solution has a high capacity for removing hydroxides, which reacts with scalp cells to invoke a nerve response in the form of the burning sensation.
The composition may include any one or more components, for example, selected from any one or more of Hydroxymethyl Cellulose, Glycerine, Alkyl Dimethicone, Lanolin, Cetronium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, 2- Acetylaminoethanol or a perfume based solvent.
The composition may include a chelating agent. The chelating agent may be selected from any one or more of Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium (EDTA), N, N'-ethylenediaminediacetic acid ("H2EDDA") and 1 , 2- diaminocyclohexane-N, N, N', N'-tetraacetic acid salts. The composition may include a low concentration of organic acids in excess of 0.003% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between of 0.001-0.008 % by mass.
The composition may include a low concentration of EDTA acid salt concentration in excess of 0.001 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.001-0.003 % by mass.
The composition may include a low concentration of Hydroxyethyl Cellulose in excess of 0.01 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
The composition may include a low lanolin concentration in excess of 0.01% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
The composition may include a low cetrimonium chloride concentration in excess of 0.0125% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
The composition may include a low propylene glycol concentration in excess of 0.01 % by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of 0.005-0.2 % by mass.
The composition may include a low 2-Acetylaminoethanol concentration in excess of 0.02% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.03 % by mass.
The composition may include a low Alkyl Dimethicone concentration in excess of 0.02% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.03 % by mass. The composition may include a low perfume concentration in excess of 0.03% by mass of the neutralising composition, typically in the range of between 0.01-0.05 % by mass. In the case of hair relaxation, a user may be able spray a part of the person's scalp once the burning sensation is sensed. The neutralising solution would then immediately neutralise the alkali at that part of the scalp without having to wash the user's hair and end the relaxing treatment. The advantage of using the neutralizing composition is that buffering effect and narrow pH range of the organic acids does not damage the scalp.
According to a second aspect of the invention there is provided a device which includes a container which is configured to spray the composition as described above and the composition as described above.
According to a third aspect of the invention there is provided the use of the buffered solution for intermediate relief by a person undergoing alkaline treatment.
It is to be appreciated that the buffering effect of the neutralising solution enables for neutralisation within a narrow pH range.
It will be appreciated that the invention can also be used to neutralise other alkali or acid based treatments such as bleaching, perms and colouring treatments.
The invention is now described by way of examples. An example of a sprayable hair cosmetic composition includes: 9
Figure imgf000007_0001

Claims

1. A sprayable hair neutralising composition, which composition includes: water and an organic aqueous buffer.
2. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 1 , wherein the composition includes one or more weak acids.
3. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the weak acid is isolactic acid.
4. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the weak acid is phosphoric acid.
5. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition includes one or more components selected from Hydroxymethyl Cellulose, Glycerine, Alkyl Dimethicone, Lanolin, Cetronium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, 2-Acetylaminoethanol or a perfume based solvent.
6. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 5, wherein the composition includes one or more chelating agents.
7. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the chelating agent is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium.
8. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition includes a concentration of organic acids of 0.003 % by mass of the composition.
9. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein the concentration of organic acids is between 0.001-0.008 % by mass of the composition.
10. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to
9, wherein the composition includes a concentration of more than 0.001 % ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid by mass of the composition.
11. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 10, wherein the concentration of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid is between 0.001-0.003 % by mass of the composition.
12. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.01 % hydroxylethyl cellulose by mass of the composition.
13. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 12, wherein the concentration of hydroxylethyl cellulose is between 0.005-0.2 % by mass of the composition.
14. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.0125 % cetrimonium chloride by mass of the composition.
15. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 14, wherein the concentration of cetrimonium chloride is between 0.005-0.2 % by mass of the composition.
16. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.01 % propylene glycol by mass of the composition.
17. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 16, wherein the concentration of propylene glycol is between 0.005-0.2 % by mass of the composition.
18. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to
17, wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.02 % 2- acetylaminoethanol by mass of the composition.
19. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 18, wherein the concentration of 2-acetylaminoethanol is between 0.01-0.03 % by mass of the composition.
20. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.02 % alkyl dimethicone by mass of the composition.
21. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 20, wherein the concentration of alkyl dimethicone is between 0.01-0.03 % by mass of the composition.
22. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 21 , wherein the composition includes a concentration of 0.02 % perfume by mass of the composition.
23. A hair neutralising composition as claimed in claim 22, wherein the concentration of perfume is between 0.01-0.05 % by mass of the composition.
24. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 24 in a container, which container is configured to spray the composition as described above.
25. A device for use with a buffered solution of the composition for intermediate relief by a person undergoing alkaline treatment.
26. A composition including any new and inventive integer or combination of integers, substantially as herein described.
27. A device including any new and inventive integer or combination of integers, substantially as herein described.
28. Use of a composition including any new and inventive integer or combination of integers, substantially as herein described.
PCT/ZA2008/000089 2007-10-19 2008-10-01 A neutralising composition for hair WO2009052536A2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ZA2010/02495A ZA201002495B (en) 2007-10-19 2010-04-09 A hair cosmetic neutralising composition

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ZA200708996 2007-10-19
ZA2007/8996 2007-10-19

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009052536A2 true WO2009052536A2 (en) 2009-04-23
WO2009052536A3 WO2009052536A3 (en) 2009-06-25

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7246093B1 (en) 1998-11-03 2007-07-17 International Sercurities Exchange, Llc Automated exchange for trading derivative securities
US20140190508A1 (en) * 2011-07-29 2014-07-10 Perachem Limited Method

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3555147A (en) * 1967-12-19 1971-01-12 Fmc Corp Peroxydiphosphate neutralizer for hair waving
US4592908A (en) * 1982-02-20 1986-06-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Protective cream for the scalp and method of straightening hair
US5378454A (en) * 1992-01-09 1995-01-03 John Paul Mitchell Systems Composition and process for permanent waving
EP0739621A1 (en) * 1995-04-28 1996-10-30 Kao Corporation Composition for treatment and care of hair and scalp comprising an aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract of oat or oatmeal
US20030175233A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2003-09-18 Peter Hossel Hair cosmetic agent
EP1579843A2 (en) * 2004-03-25 2005-09-28 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetic composition
EP1047374B1 (en) * 1998-11-14 2007-01-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Composition and process for permanent hairshaping

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3555147A (en) * 1967-12-19 1971-01-12 Fmc Corp Peroxydiphosphate neutralizer for hair waving
US4592908A (en) * 1982-02-20 1986-06-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Protective cream for the scalp and method of straightening hair
US5378454A (en) * 1992-01-09 1995-01-03 John Paul Mitchell Systems Composition and process for permanent waving
EP0739621A1 (en) * 1995-04-28 1996-10-30 Kao Corporation Composition for treatment and care of hair and scalp comprising an aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract of oat or oatmeal
EP1047374B1 (en) * 1998-11-14 2007-01-03 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Composition and process for permanent hairshaping
US20030175233A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2003-09-18 Peter Hossel Hair cosmetic agent
EP1579843A2 (en) * 2004-03-25 2005-09-28 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetic composition

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7246093B1 (en) 1998-11-03 2007-07-17 International Sercurities Exchange, Llc Automated exchange for trading derivative securities
US20140190508A1 (en) * 2011-07-29 2014-07-10 Perachem Limited Method

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ZA201002495B (en) 2011-02-23
WO2009052536A3 (en) 2009-06-25

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