WO2008152160A1 - Procédé permettant d'esquisser et de façonner des vêtements en trois dimensions - Google Patents

Procédé permettant d'esquisser et de façonner des vêtements en trois dimensions Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008152160A1
WO2008152160A1 PCT/ES2008/000250 ES2008000250W WO2008152160A1 WO 2008152160 A1 WO2008152160 A1 WO 2008152160A1 ES 2008000250 W ES2008000250 W ES 2008000250W WO 2008152160 A1 WO2008152160 A1 WO 2008152160A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garment
garments
patterns
dummy
components
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/ES2008/000250
Other languages
English (en)
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Juan Manuel Cordero Valle
Original Assignee
Universidad De Sevilla
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Universidad De Sevilla filed Critical Universidad De Sevilla
Publication of WO2008152160A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008152160A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
    • G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
    • G06T19/00—Manipulating 3D models or images for computer graphics
    • G06T19/20—Editing of 3D images, e.g. changing shapes or colours, aligning objects or positioning parts
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
    • G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
    • G06T2210/00—Indexing scheme for image generation or computer graphics
    • G06T2210/16—Cloth
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
    • G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
    • G06T2219/00—Indexing scheme for manipulating 3D models or images for computer graphics
    • G06T2219/20—Indexing scheme for editing of 3D models
    • G06T2219/2016—Rotation, translation, scaling
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
    • G06T—IMAGE DATA PROCESSING OR GENERATION, IN GENERAL
    • G06T2219/00—Indexing scheme for manipulating 3D models or images for computer graphics
    • G06T2219/20—Indexing scheme for editing of 3D models
    • G06T2219/2021—Shape modification

Definitions

  • the present invention is about a computer-assisted method that allows the sketching and modeling of clothing in three dimensions, in order to define a sketch or a model for the habitual use of the sketchers.
  • the definition and characterization of new garments is made from other garments that serve as the basis as patterns in three dimensions, modifying sizes, shapes, elements, components and styles, as well as combining different garments and / or accessories to which apply specific operations that allow to obtain the desired sketch or model.
  • the patent ES2211357 is based on the concept of last, that is, a pre-set three-dimensional surface that surrounds a body and can then be modified.
  • the last is defined by parametric coordinates, where each part that forms the last has a hollow tapered configuration.
  • the shape of the last can be modified by retouching its parameters, but always maintaining a certain global structure bound by the type of surface used. Some parts of the surface of the last can be hidden to simulate different garments or to define a certain garment.
  • the lasts can be stacked, forming layers, to simulate the superposition of garments. Garments that can be designed with the method of this patent are limited to the types of lasts used.
  • the patent US7079134 of Keung-Lung, which describes a method that allows to adapt a garment to the measure of a specific virtual mannequin.
  • the method is characterized by importing a three-dimensional digital representation of a dummy or a part thereof, on which it represents a three-dimensional structure formed by lines defined in transverse and longitudinal planes that allow modifying the dimensions and shape of the garment .
  • the mentioned structure adapts to the dummy respecting what the inventor calls as freedom of movement, which defines as the set of distances from defined points in the lines of the structure to the surface of the dummy.
  • the structure can be accompanied by a texture to simulate a real garment.
  • some anthropomorphic parameters can be defined to adapt it to what the author calls as posture or pose.
  • US 6907310 from Holden, describes a method for modifying a base garment, with a predefined size and shape.
  • the modified base garment is chosen from a catalog of garments.
  • the new garment, modification of the basic garment must comply with a series of restrictions imposed explicitly.
  • To modify the original basic garment it uses a series of defined points on 2D patterns, which it calls design points, associated with regions of the body of a dummy, which it modifies by repositioning to obtain a new size and shape.
  • the aforementioned restrictions to obtain the new garment, establish 3D relationships between the design points and the dummy body regions. It also provides a method to obtain 2D patterns from the 3D representation of the garment.
  • a key concept in the custom design process is that the adjustment of the garment to the body of the dummy is treated holistically (one piece).
  • the 2D patterns used in the representation of the base garment are obtained from 2D pattern tools of the market or by digitalization of real patterns. Once the user has entered the 2D patterns in the system, they must mark by hand the design points on the patterns, which usually coincide with the sewing lines.
  • the garment resulting from the design will be subject to a general restriction, due to the need to maintain the shape of the base garment, based on the principle of minimizing the energy of 2D patterns.
  • the method focuses especially on the modification of the size of a defined garment.
  • Figure 1. Represents one of the possible usable mannequins, placed in one of the possible views of it.
  • Figure 2. Represents a base garment: long sleeveless bodice dress, with dug shoulders, sketched neck and low U-neckline.
  • Figure 3. Traditional representation of a sketch from a three-dimensional sketch.
  • Figure 4. Represents a mannequin dressed with a base garment in the zero layer.
  • Figure 5. Represents a projection of the garment on a plane that allows the modification of the garment through the projection lines.
  • Figure 6. Represents a 3D sketch with a coat in the zero layer and a scarf in layer one, on the coat.
  • Figure 7 Represents the transformation of a basic garment into a new garment. In the upper part the base garment appears, origin of the garment of the lower part. The transformations arise with the application of operations for use in clothing, design and fashion.
  • Figure 8. Represents a sketch.
  • Figure 9. Represents a pattern of a pant-type garment with some control lines represented.
  • the garments have been designed and manufactured by converting a conceptual design (sketch onwards) into patterns that are cut and sewn to produce a garment.
  • This process has depended on the knowledge and ability of designers and / or patronists to create 2D patterns that conform a 3D garment in a size and shape adjusted to the sketch of the designer, designer, designer or tailor (sketcher onwards).
  • this process is initially performed in a single standard size (most common size in the target population).
  • the prototype garment is tested on an artificial dummy or figurine as close as possible to the standard size (it depends on the anthropomorphic parameters of the population).
  • the patterns are adjusted and subsequently sewn to form the garment until a satisfactory result is obtained.
  • the designed garment will then have to be converted to a range of proportional sizes or sizes.
  • Each pattern will have to be modified for each desired garment size.
  • This process known as scaling, does not consist of a simple linear scaling of dimensions, but requires the adjustment of both the sizes and the proportions of the different patterns. This depends on the skills and experience of the patronists.
  • This invention is about a computer-assisted method that allows the sketching and modeling of clothing in three dimensions, in order to define a sketch or a model for the habitual use of the sketchers.
  • the definition and characterization of new garments is made from other garments that serve as the basis as patterns in three dimensions, modifying sizes, shapes, elements, components, styles and fabrics or fabrics; as well as combining different garments and / or accessories (scarves, scarves, etc.), to which specific operations are applied that allow obtaining the desired model and / or sketch.
  • the method of this invention therefore allows the creation of prototypes or sketches that can later be converted into designs to be used for real garments, or as a means to perform costume tests or runway simulations.
  • This invention provides a method for sketching and modeling garments in three dimensions, characterized by including the following steps:
  • the method allows you to select a 3D representation of a human-looking model (mannequin onwards) from a database (catalog of mannequins onwards).
  • the mannequin may have a feminine or masculine appearance, as well as represent an age and physical characteristics of race, size, weight and other anthropomorphic parameters, depending on the interest of the designer.
  • the method allows you to select a model, type or base garment (base garment onwards) from a database of basic garments (garment catalog onwards). See figure 2.
  • This basic garment represents a type of garment (coat, jacket, pants, blouse, etc.) in a size appropriate to the dummy selected.
  • the basic garment contains information on dimensions, proportions, fabrics, fabrics and elements, as well as their configuration. It also contains information about its breakdown in patterns and components.
  • the selected garment will dress the dummy according to the type of garment and the parameters associated with it. See figure 4. This step can be repeated as many times as necessary. It is possible to indicate, in each repetition, a parameter corresponding to the layer in which the loaded base garment must be placed.
  • the layers represent levels of depth with respect to a prominent and predetermined point of the dummy, so that the deepest layer is the one that "touches" the dummy, and the shallower or outermost layer is that which contains the outermost garments or completely in sight. See figure 6. It is also possible to modify the layer to which a part of the garment must belong, either an element, section or component, independently of the rest of the garment.
  • the method allows the designer to modify the basic garments by applying operations to the use in clothing, design and fashion. See figure 7.
  • the method allows the designer to modify the dimensions of the patterns associated with a basic garment, as well as to apply a set of specific operations, so that the visual results are in accordance with the rules implicit in the system that maintain the proportionality and restrictions defined in the patterns, as well as the rules of sewing patterns of the original basic garment.
  • the method allows storing persistently the results and the elements used in a work session, in sketch form, to be able to continue later with the session once loaded from storage.
  • the method object of this invention includes one or some of the following characteristics, individually or collectively: •
  • the method allows defining the components of a garment.
  • the upper part of the body is usually composed of sleeves, neck, chest, back, cuffs, pockets, shoulder pads, keypad, waistbands, etc.
  • These components are predefined in the system, forming a catalog of components. These components are defined by patterns and for a set of attributes that allow them to be characterized.
  • Each type or generic component (type component onwards), has a set of specific components, differentiated by the values of their attributes.
  • the neck type component may have several instances of specific components: Italian collar, English collar, buttoned collar, etc.
  • Garments in this method are also divided into zones and sections.
  • the upper area of the garment located on the shoulder or shoulder strap, named as a cup is an area of the garment.
  • These areas and sections will serve as vocabulary in garment operations. «The method allows to relate the locations of a component or garment with the sections or parts of the mannequins. As well as relating the orientation of the components and garments with the sections and parts of the mannequins.
  • the method allows the linkage mentioned in the previous paragraph to be established, in its minimum expression, as a relationship between a small area of the surface of the dummy and a small area of the surface of the garment.
  • the method allows to represent a sketch, in 3D, in a two-dimensional sketch with the artistic visual style traditionally used by the sketchers to date. See figure 3.
  • E! The method allows the sketches to be projected on arbitrary planes indicated by the sketcher, so that the contour lines of the projection can be used to modify the shape of the garments of the sketch. For this purpose, the designer will have the possibility to puncture and pull a point of some projected contour line. See figure 5.
  • the method allows modifying the shape and dimensions of a garment using control lines associated with the patterns related to the garment, so that any modification in the shape and size of one of the patterns will be restricted by the rule system, which maintains the coherence of the result in terms of the proportionality between patterns and their sewing.
  • the control lines of the garment (of the patterns) may be associated to the dummy sections, so that any modification on the control lines will have to be endorsed by the context rules associated with the control line-section relationship of the dummy.
  • a control line for pant patterns is the baseline, which marks the height of the crotch at the bottom of the pants.
  • a modification in this line results in new patterns that make up a high-waisted trousers with respect to the baseline. See figure 9.
  • the garments in this method have associated area control points that allow modifying the shape and position of the areas attached to the garment.
  • a modification in the location of a control point will be represented in the final result as a new spatial arrangement of the area of the affected garment.
  • a control point will also allow operations on the garment, such as making a collection of the fabric (draping), or modifying the shape of a neckline, or sewing buttons to the garment.
  • the patterns in this method will also be indicated by sections and attributes of these, such as in the case of pants, the hawk and the total length of the pants, respectively.
  • the method allows the modification of the patterns that make up a garment through specific operations for patterns such as, for example, modify the length of the pants. See figure 9.
  • the patterns in this method are governed, to form a garment, by sewing rules between them.
  • the rules define how and where the patterns should be joined, as well as the rules of proportionality between them, so that a modification in a pattern will entail the modification, if the rules allow, of other patterns.
  • the method allows you to select accessories and accessories (bags, glasses, bracelets, earrings, shoes, etc.) from a catalog to detail the sketches (accessories catalog onwards).
  • the accessories and accessories will be adapted to the dummy according to the definition of location and orientation attributes that are defined. See figure 8.
  • Sketches stored in the sketch catalog will also contain this information.
  • the method allows to visualize the garments on a mannequin with different visualization techniques. For example it is possible to be visualizing a sketch where a garment is being shown with a technique (such as the representation of a fabric by BRDF-render), and another only with the control lines of the garment.
  • the method allows modifying the pose of the dummy to achieve the desired posture for the sketch. By modifying the pose of the dummy, the garments on the dummy will dynamically adapt to the new pose.
  • the method allows a motion capture to be associated with the dummy, so that the garments on the dummy will dynamically adapt to form a simulation.
  • the method allows to define the simulation technique of garments.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Architecture (AREA)
  • Computer Graphics (AREA)
  • Computer Hardware Design (AREA)
  • General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Software Systems (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Theoretical Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé assisté par ordinateur qui permet d'esquisser et de façonner des vêtements en trois dimensions, afin de définir une esquisse ou un modèle à l'usage habituel des dessinateurs. La définition et la caractérisation de nouveaux vêtements se font à partir d'autres vêtements qui servent de base de type patrons en trois dimensions, par la modification des tailles, des formes, des éléments, des composants et des styles, ainsi que par la combinaison de différents vêtements et/ou accessoires auxquels on applique des opérations spécifiques qui permettent d'obtenir l'esquisse ou le modèle souhaité.
PCT/ES2008/000250 2007-06-14 2008-04-15 Procédé permettant d'esquisser et de façonner des vêtements en trois dimensions WO2008152160A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ESP200701098 2007-06-14
ES200701098 2007-06-14

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2008152160A1 true WO2008152160A1 (fr) 2008-12-18

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/ES2008/000250 WO2008152160A1 (fr) 2007-06-14 2008-04-15 Procédé permettant d'esquisser et de façonner des vêtements en trois dimensions

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030011590A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2003-01-16 Kung Alexandre Keung-Lung Method for three-dimensional digital designing of garment
US20040049309A1 (en) * 2001-01-19 2004-03-11 Gardner James Holden Patrick Production and visualisation of garments
ES2211357A1 (es) * 2002-12-31 2004-07-01 Reyes Infografica, S.L. Metodo asistido por ordenador para diseñar prendas de vestir.

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030011590A1 (en) * 2000-05-12 2003-01-16 Kung Alexandre Keung-Lung Method for three-dimensional digital designing of garment
US20040049309A1 (en) * 2001-01-19 2004-03-11 Gardner James Holden Patrick Production and visualisation of garments
ES2211357A1 (es) * 2002-12-31 2004-07-01 Reyes Infografica, S.L. Metodo asistido por ordenador para diseñar prendas de vestir.

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