WO2008007334A2 - Composition pour maquillage - Google Patents

Composition pour maquillage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008007334A2
WO2008007334A2 PCT/IB2007/052731 IB2007052731W WO2008007334A2 WO 2008007334 A2 WO2008007334 A2 WO 2008007334A2 IB 2007052731 W IB2007052731 W IB 2007052731W WO 2008007334 A2 WO2008007334 A2 WO 2008007334A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition according
composition
equal
color
particles
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2007/052731
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2008007334A3 (fr
Inventor
Karen Teboul
Sylvie Epinette
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0652894A external-priority patent/FR2903304A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2008007334A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008007334A2/fr
Publication of WO2008007334A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008007334A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/437—Diffractive phenomena; Photonic arrays
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and more particularly to cosmetic compositions for making-up the skin, the lips, hair, or the nails.
  • Diffractive pigments including a diffraction grating making it possible to create a rainbow effect are thus known, a feature of such pigments being to produce a color that depends on the orientation of the pigment relative to the observer.
  • the invention seeks to propose novel cosmetic compositions that make it possible to obtain relatively intense color effects from color-effect particles in suspension in the composition, e.g. a diffractive pigment, even when the composition is applied in a thin layer on a relatively uneven support surface.
  • the cosmetic compositions typically comprise a cosmetically-acceptable medium.
  • Cosmetically-acceptable medium means a medium that is not toxic and that is suitable for application to the skin, hair, the nails, or the lips of human beings.
  • the invention provides a fluid cosmetic composition comprising one or more volatile solvents and color-effect particles dispersed in the solvent (s), the medium being suitable, after forming a deposit of the composition on keratinous materials, for enabling the color effect to develop progressively after application, as a result of the particles migrating to the surface of the deposit and as a result of the particles aligning during evaporation of the volatile solvent (s) .
  • the migration towards the surface can take place in particular under the effect of convection movements within the composition as a result of the solvent (s) evaporating.
  • the concentration of particles in the proximity of the surface of the composition increases after application, and, by means of an interference phenomenon, makes it possible to create a color effect that is relatively intense, even when the support surface on which the composition is applied is relatively uneven, such as the skin or the lips.
  • the invention can make the effect obtained less dependent on the kind of applicator that might be used.
  • the color effect can reach its final intensity relatively quickly, e.g. in less than 5 minutes (min) after application.
  • the invention can thus be fun to watch as a result of the color effect appearing progressively.
  • solvents of relatively low boiling point can turn out to be preferable in order to encourage the appearance of convection movements, in particular when the total content by weight of solvent (s) is relatively small.
  • the composition may advantageously include one or more volatile solvents, in particular organic solvents, having boiling temperatures at atmospheric pressure (760 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) ) that are less than or equal to 150 0 C, better 105 0 C, still better 90°C.
  • the solvent content may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, better 15%, or 10%.
  • Said content could be selected as a function of the kind of keratinous materials to which the composition is to be applied, e.g. being less than or equal to 8% or 6% so as to make the composition better adapted for application to the skin or the lips.
  • the volatile solvent (s) could be selected as a function of their compatibility with the other components of the composition, so as to enable the composition to be preserved in stable manner, in particular without the components separating.
  • the viscosity of the composition may advantageously be greater than or equal to 0.5 pascal-seconds (Pa. s) under shear of 1000 per second (s -1 ) , and that may improve its ability to remain on the skin or the lips.
  • the viscosity of the composition may also advantageously be less than or equal to 10 Pa. s under shear of 1000 s '1 , so as to avoid delaying unduly the particles rising and orientating, and so as to enable them to rise before complete evaporation of the volatile solvent (s) .
  • the viscosity is measured at 25°C, under shear of
  • Protocol • bringing the sample to a temperature of 25°C for 30 seconds (s) ;
  • the composition may optionally be film-forming, e.g. depending on the kind of support surface to be made-up. For a film-forming composition, care should be taken to ensure that the film does not form at a rate that prevents the color-effect particles from migrating towards the surface.
  • the composition need not have a film-forming agent such as nitrocellulose, for example.
  • the composition need not have coloring agent other than the color-effect particles.
  • the composition may include at least one coloring agent other than the particles, e.g. a colorant or a pigment, which may possibly be an interference colorant or pigment.
  • the presence, within the composition, firstly of the color-effect particles, and secondly of another coloring agent, in particular an interference pigment, may make it possible to "mask" the color of the color-effect particles when the lighting level is low.
  • the quantity of the other coloring agent introduced into the composition may be associated with the grain size of said other coloring agent, and may be selected in such a manner as to avoid impeding migration of the color-effect particles.
  • the size of the interference pigment may thus be less than or equal to 80 micrometers ( ⁇ m) , and greater than or equal to 40 ⁇ m, for example.
  • size means the average grain size distribution at half the population, also referred to as D 50 .
  • the composition need not have solid bodies other than the particles arranged so as produce the color effect and the other possible coloring agent (s). This may contribute to the transparency of the medium containing the color-effect particles and the other coloring agent (s). This transparency makes it possible to avoid masking the light reflected via the color-effect particles, and to avoid unduly attenuating said color effect .
  • the content within the composition of solid bodies, other than the color-effect particles may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, better 5%.
  • the composition may be for applying to the skin, the lips, the nails, or the hair.
  • composition may be applied directly to keratinous materials or as a top coat on a base coat, which may be colored.
  • the invention also provides a fluid cosmetic composition comprising:
  • one or more volatile organic solvents having a boiling temperature (at P at m) that is less than or equal to 150 0 C, better 105 0 C, still better less than or equal to 90 0 C, and being of a total content that is less than or equal to 20% or 15% by weight, better 10%; and
  • color-effect particles in particular a diffractive pigment, being of a content that is less than or equal to 10% by weight, better 2%, still better 0.5%.
  • the total content of solid bodies in such a composition is advantageously less than or equal to 15% by weight, better 5%, relative to the weight of the composition .
  • the viscosity of such a composition preferably lies in the range 0.5 Pa. s to 10 Pa. s at 25°C under shear of 1000 s "1 .
  • the invention also provides a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: • a cosmetically-acceptable medium having viscosity lying in the range 0.5 Pa. s to 10 Pa. s. at 25°C under shear of 1000 s '1 , and comprising:
  • color-effect particles in particular diffractive particles made of aluminum, of content that is less than or equal to 10% by weight, better 2%.
  • a plurality of test may be used to reveal the rising phenomenon of the particles.
  • a layer having a thickness of about 300 ⁇ m is applied in the fluid state to sandpaper, with a thickness that is sufficient to cover the sandpaper completely.
  • a comparative trial may be performed with a composition having the same color-effect particles, but in which said color-effect particles do not migrate towards the surface. In this event, the color effect is non-existent or less intense because of the roughness of the support surface.
  • the composition is poured into a relatively deep dish, e.g. having a depth of 10 mm.
  • the rising of particles is accompanied by the appearance, at the surface, of a color effect that becomes more and more intense.
  • the dish is transparent, by looking through the side, it is possible to observe a higher concentration of particles in the proximity of the surface.
  • the color effect of intensity that increases with the migration and the alignment of the particles is a color effect that appears only in the presence of a relatively high number of substantially aligned particles, present at the surface of the composition or in its vicinity.
  • the color effect may be an effect of splitting up the visible light spectrum, also referred to as a rainbow effect, when the color-effect particles used are particles each including a diffraction grating. Such a color effect may depend very strongly on the orientation of the particles.
  • the color effect may also be an effect of producing a single color by a thin-layer interference phenomenon, or it may be a metallic reflection effect that is likewise produced by an interference phenomenon.
  • the color effect may also be a goniochromatic effect associated with a thin-layer interference structure.
  • the color effect may depend on ambient light or temperature.
  • the color effect may be quantified by measuring a color path, where appropriate.
  • the time period necessary for the color effect to appear fully is greater than or equal to 10 s, for example, and less than or equal to 5 min, for example.
  • the color effect may appear only under certain lighting conditions, in particular under certain brightness conditions.
  • Color-effect particles advantageously present an elongate shape, in particular a platelet shape, so as to be able in particular to adopt a common orientation.
  • the content of the particles in the composition may be less than or equal to 10% by weight, better 2%, e.g. about 0.5% or less.
  • the invention makes it possible to increase the concentration of the particles where their presence is useful, thereby making it possible to have a relatively low concentration in the composition.
  • the particles may be configured so as to produce a color effect by an interference phenomenon, and they may be diffractive particles each including at least one diffraction grating.
  • the grating may be present on opposite main faces of the particles.
  • the particles may also include a multilayer interference structure that may be symmetrical.
  • the diffraction gratings of the particles may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, with the distance between two adjacent patterns being the same as the wavelength of the incident light.
  • the diffraction grating separates the various spectral components of the light and produces a rainbow effect.
  • the diffractive grating may be made with patterns having various profiles, in particular triangular, optionally symmetrical, notched, of optionally constant width, or sinusoidal.
  • the spatial frequency of the grating and the depth of the patterns are selected as a function of the degree of separation of the various desired orders.
  • the frequency may be in the range 500 lines per mm to 3000 lines per mm, for example.
  • a single particle may include two crossed diffraction gratings that are optionally perpendicular.
  • the particles having diffraction grating may present a multilayer structure comprising a layer of reflective material that is covered on at least one side by a layer of dielectric material.
  • the dielectric material may make the diffractive pigment stiffer and longer lasting.
  • the dielectric material may thus be selected from the following materials: MgF2, Si ⁇ 2, AI2O3, AIF3, CeF 3 , LaF 3 , NdF 3 , SmF 2 , BaF 2 , CaF 2 , LiF, and combinations thereof.
  • the reflective material may be selected from metals and alloys thereof, and also from non-metallic reflective materials: Metals that may be used include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr, and materials, combinations, or alloys thereof. Such a reflective material may also, on its own, constitute the particle having a diffraction grating and which is thus a single-layer particle.
  • the diffractive pigment may include a multilayer structure comprising a core of dielectric material with a reflective layer covering at least one side, or indeed completely encapsulating, the core. A layer of dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer (s).
  • the dielectric material used is thus preferably inorganic, and may, for example, be selected from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides, and combinations thereof.
  • the dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semi-crystalline, or amorphous state.
  • the dielectric material may, for example, be selected from the following materials: MgF 2 , SiO, SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , TiO 2 , WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3 , ZnS, glass particles, diamond-type carbons, and combinations thereof.
  • the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a naturally lamellar mineral, e.g. mica peroskovite or talc; or synthetic platelets formed from glass, alumina, SiO 2 , carbon, an iron oxide/mica, mica covered in BN, BC, graphite, or bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.
  • a naturally lamellar mineral e.g. mica peroskovite or talc
  • synthetic platelets formed from glass, alumina, SiO 2 , carbon, an iron oxide/mica, mica covered in BN, BC, graphite, or bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.
  • the diffractive pigment used may be selected from those described in US patent application No. 2003/0031870.
  • a diffractive pigment may, for example, have the following structure: MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 , a diffractive pigment having this structure being sold by FLEX PRODUCTS under the trade names SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG.
  • the proportion by weight of MgF 2 may be in the range 80% to 95% of the total weight of the pigment.
  • the diffractive pigment may also be the diffractive pigment found in the dispersion proposed by ECKART under the reference METALURE PRISMATIC.
  • the METALURE PRISMATIC dispersion contains 95% ethyl acetate and 5% diffractive aluminum particles having a grain size of 50 ⁇ m.
  • the particles of pigment may be recovered after distilling the ethyl acetate, which may be replaced by isononyl isononanoate, for example.
  • Such a pigment presents an aluminum content of about 90% to 100% by weight, with 5000 to 20000 diffractive patterns per square centimeter (cm 2 ) , and is described in publication WO 2005/05 5965 Al.
  • the size of the color-effect particles may lie in the range 5 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m, better in the range 5 ⁇ m to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the thickness of the color-effect particles may be less than or equal to 3 ⁇ m, better 2 ⁇ m, e.g. about 1 ⁇ m.
  • the density of the color-effect particles may be less than the density of the medium in which they are dispersed.
  • composition may include one or more pigments other than the pigment (s) producing the color effect of intensity that increases after application as a result of them migrating towards the surface.
  • the additional pigment (s) may be selected in such a manner as to present a possible rate of migration towards the surface that is slower than the migrating rate of the color-effect particles.
  • said color-effect particles remain as close to the surface as possible and are not masked unduly by the other pigment (s) .
  • the total content in the composition of the other pigments may be selected as a function of their grain size so as to avoid preventing the color-effect particles from rising.
  • the other pigment (s) may contain "reflective particles", i.e. particles having size and structure, and in particular thickness in the layer (s) constituting them, and physical and chemical natures, and surface state, that allow them to reflect incident light. If appropriate, said reflection may have sufficient intensity to create highlight points on the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when the composition or the mixture is applied to the support surface to be made up, which highlight points are visible to the naked eye, i.e. they are points of greater brightness that contrast with their environment and appear to shine.
  • the reflective particles may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold, and/or coppery color or glint.
  • the reflective particles may be present in the first composition at a content lying in the range 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Said particles may be in various forms, in particular they may be in the form of flakes, or they may be globular, in particular spherical. Regardless of their form, the reflective particles may optionally have a multilayer structure; with a multilayer structure, for example, they may have at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, be composed of metal oxides, in particular oxides of titanium or iron obtained by synthesis.
  • the reflective particles may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate which is at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material.
  • the substrate may be a single material or multiple materials, and it may be organic and/or inorganic.
  • the composition may also include amongst the or other pigment (s) at least one nacre that may be selected from nacre pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with an organic colorant, in particular of the type mentioned above, and nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be particles of mica on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring substances have been superimposed.
  • nacre pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with an organic colorant, in particular of the type mentioned above, and nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacre pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with an organic colorant, in particular of the type
  • the nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold, and/or coppery color or glint.
  • nacres suitable for being introduced into the composition and that may be mentioned are gold color nacres, in particular those sold by ENGELHARD under the trade names Brillant gold 212G (Timica) , Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold (Timica) , Gold 4504 (Chromalite) , and Monarch gold 233X
  • the density of the pigments other than the pigment producing the color effect may be greater than the density of the color-effect pigment.
  • the composition may also contain colorants, organic pigments, or lakes.
  • the colorants may be liposoluble or hydrosoluble .
  • liposoluble colorants are Sudan red, D&C Red No.17, D&C Green No.6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow No.11, D&C Violet No.2, D&C orange No.5, and quinoline yellow.
  • hydrosoluble colorants examples include beetroot juice and methylene blue.
  • the colorants may represent 0 to 5%, e.g. 0.01% to 5%, by weight of the composition when present.
  • the lakes or organic pigments may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof: • cochineal carmine ;
  • organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, or fluorane dyes • organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, or of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, or fluorine dyes, which dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
  • Organic pigments that may be mentioned include those with the following denominations: D&C Blue No.4, D&C Brown No.l, D&C Green No.5, D&C Green No.6, D&C Orange No.4, D&C Orange No.5, D&C Orange No.10, D&C Orange No.11, D&C Red No.6, D&C Red No.7, D&C Red No.17, D&C Red No.21, D&C Red No.22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No.28, D&C Red No.30, D&C Red No.31, D&C Red No.33, D&C Red No.34, D&C Red No.36, D&C Violet No.2, D&C Yellow No.7, D&C Yellow No.8, D&C Yellow No.10, D&C Yellow No.11, FD&C Blue No.l, FD&C Green No.3, FD&C Red No.40, FD&C Yellow No.5, FD&C Yellow No .6.
  • the organic coloring substance may comprise an organic lake supported by an organic support such as colophane or aluminum benzoate, for example.
  • Particular organic lakes that may be mentioned include those with the following denominations: D&C Red No.2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .6 Barium lake, D&C Red No .6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No.6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No .6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No.7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .7 Barium lake, D&C Red No .7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No .7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No.7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No .8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No.9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No .9 Barium lake, D&C Red No .9 Barium/Strontium lake, D
  • Aluminum/Titanium/Zirconium lake D&C Red No.27 Barium lake, D&C Red No.27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No.27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No.28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No.30 lake, D&C Red No.31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No.33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No.34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No.36 lake, D&C Red No.40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue No .1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green No .3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No .4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No .5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No .5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No.10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No.17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No .5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No .5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No .6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No .7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No.10 Aluminum lake,
  • the composition may contain a composite pigment.
  • the composite pigment may be composed of particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring substance.
  • At least one binder may advantageously contribute to fixing the organic coloring substance onto the inorganic core.
  • Fillers In addition to the color-effect particles and the other coloring agent (s) that are possibly present, the composition may include at least one filler.
  • the term "filler" means particles of any form which are insoluble in the composition medium regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. A filler primarily acts to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.
  • the kind and the quantity of particles could depend on the mechanical properties and textures desired, but the quantity of filler (s) is selected in such a manner as to avoid unduly preventing the color-effect particles migrating towards the surface, or avoid preventing the desired color effect from being obtained.
  • fillers examples include amongst others talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and sericite, and powders of polyamide, polyolefin, e.g. polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, or polyurethane, powdered starch, and silicone resin beads.
  • the filler content could be relatively small, e.g. less than or equal to 15% by weight.
  • the composition includes at least one volatile solvent that presents a boiling point, at atmospheric pressure, that is less than or equal to 150 0 C, better less than or equal to 120 0 C, still better less than or equal to 105°C or 90 0 C.
  • the solvent can be organic.
  • the solvent is selected from ethanol (T bp 78°C), isopropanol (T bp 82.4°C), and HDMS (T bp 100 0 C), or mixtures thereof, amongst others.
  • the volatile solvent can be completely miscible in the liquid phase of the composition and compatible therewith.
  • the total content of volatile solvent (s), that cause convection movements in the medium by evaporating can be less than or equal to 20%, e.g. possibly lying in the range 2% to 20% for ethanol or isopropanol, and in the range 2% to 15% for HDMS, and it is selected as a function of the kind of material to be made-up.
  • the weight ratio of the volatile solvent (s) relative to the other liquid compounds of the medium lies in the range 0.005 to 0.11, for example, better 0.02 to 0.07.
  • the composition may include an oily phase, which may comprise one or more liquid compounds having a boiling temperature that is greater than the boiling temperature of the volatile solvent (s) responsible for the convection movements, in particular a boiling temperature that is greater than or equal to 150 0 C.
  • an oily phase which may comprise one or more liquid compounds having a boiling temperature that is greater than the boiling temperature of the volatile solvent (s) responsible for the convection movements, in particular a boiling temperature that is greater than or equal to 150 0 C.
  • the composition may include at least one fat that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and/or possibly a fat that is solid in suspension at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fats, gums, and mixtures thereof, providing its presence does not prevent the particles from rising, and providing the composition remains sufficiently transparent.
  • a fat that is liquid at ambient temperature 25°C
  • a fat that is solid in suspension at ambient temperature such as waxes, pasty fats, gums, and mixtures thereof
  • Fats that are liquid at ambient temperature are: hydrocarbon- containing vegetable oils such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or sunflower, corn, soybean, grapeseed, sesame seed, apricot kernel, macadamia nut, castor, or avocado stone oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea nut butter oil, lanolin, acetylated lanolin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, Vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam; synthesized esters and ethers, in particular fatty acids such as Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodec
  • the oil (s) listed above may present a total content lying in the range 0 to 95% by weight depending on the oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oil (s) may be selected in such a manner as to be compatible with the low boiling point volatile solvent (s), and in such a manner as to avoid increasing unduly the viscosity of the composition.
  • the composition need not have any pasty or solid fats such as waxes or gums, for example.
  • the composition may include at least one cosmetically or dermatologically active ingredient.
  • Suitable cosmetically, dermatologically, hygienically, or pharmaceutically active ingredients for use in the compositions of the invention are moisturizing agents (polyols such as glycerine) , vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP) , essential fatty acids, essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble or nanoparticle sun screens, and specific skin treatment active ingredients (protective agents, antibacterials, anti-wrinkle agents, etc), self-tanning agents.
  • Said active ingredients may be used in concentrations in the range 0 to 20%, for example, in particular in the range 0.001% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may contain any ingredient that is routinely used in cosmetics, such as thickeners, surfactants, oligo-elements, moisturizing agents, softeners, sequestrating agents, fragrances, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, or mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetics such as thickeners, surfactants, oligo-elements, moisturizing agents, softeners, sequestrating agents, fragrances, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, or mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention may thus include constituents which are conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and which are present in quantities appropriate to the desired dosage form.
  • the composition need not have any film-forming agent, as mentioned above.
  • the composition may include a film-forming polymer, i.e. a polymer that can form, by itself or in the presence of an additional film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support surface, in particular to keratinous materials.
  • a film-forming polymer i.e. a polymer that can form, by itself or in the presence of an additional film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support surface, in particular to keratinous materials.
  • care should be taken to ensure that the film does not form at a rate that completely prevents the color-effect particles from rising.
  • the composition was spread onto a LENETA IA standard contrast chart at a thickness of 250 ⁇ m and at a spreading rate of 1 (BRAIVE INSTRUMENTS spreading bench) . After 5 min the measurement was taken.
  • the contrast chart was placed under a spectrogonioreflectometer referenced GON 360, in accordance with the measuring configuration shown in Figure 2, the measurements being taken at angles 45°/30°, 45°/20°, 45°/10°, 45°/0°, 45°/-10°, 45°/-20°, 45°/-30°, 45°/-40°, 45°/-45°, 45°/-50°, 45°/-60°, 45°/-70°, and 45°/-80°.
  • Polybutene exists under various molecular weights, thereby making it possible to vary the viscosity of the composition.
  • Otyldodecanol contributes to the stability of the composition.
  • the viscosity was 4.9 Pa. s. under shear of 1000 s '1 at 25°C.
  • the diffractive particles were associated with a purple pigment.
  • the diffractive particles are associated with a gold-colored interference pigment.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention porte sur une composition cosmétique fluide comprenant, dans un milieu cosméticocompatible, un ou plusieurs solvants volatiles et des particules à effet colorant. La composition après application sur la peau permet à l'effet colorant de se développer progressivement car les particules remontent à la surface du dépôt pendant l'évaporation du ou des solvants volatiles.
PCT/IB2007/052731 2006-07-10 2007-07-10 Composition pour maquillage WO2008007334A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0652894 2006-07-10
FR0652894A FR2903304A1 (fr) 2006-07-10 2006-07-10 Composition de maquillage
US83669106P 2006-08-10 2006-08-10
US60/836,691 2006-08-10

Publications (2)

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WO2008007334A2 true WO2008007334A2 (fr) 2008-01-17
WO2008007334A3 WO2008007334A3 (fr) 2008-04-03

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US9168209B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168394B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168393B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9320687B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-04-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US20210244634A1 (en) * 2018-07-16 2021-08-12 Eckart Gmbh Pvd-aluminum pigment dispersion and cosmetic formulations
US11377565B2 (en) 2016-04-15 2022-07-05 Eckart Gmbh Surface-modified effect pigment and nail varnish composition
US11617707B2 (en) 2017-10-18 2023-04-04 Eckart Gmbh Nail varnish composition containing embossed effect pigments and surface-modified embossed effect pigments

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WO2003011980A1 (fr) * 2001-07-31 2003-02-13 Flex Products, Inc. Flocons pigmentaires a diffraction et compositions associees
EP1477154A1 (fr) * 2003-05-16 2004-11-17 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un pigment diffractant et un agent de coloration goniochromatique
WO2005055965A1 (fr) * 2003-12-10 2005-06-23 Eckart Gmbh & Co. Kg Composition cosmetique servant a produire une pellicule cosmetique d'aspect miroitant metallique et polychrome et ongle artificiel
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WO2002003913A2 (fr) * 2000-07-07 2002-01-17 Kirker Enterprises, Inc. Compositions pour vernis a ongles contenant des precipites d'aluminiun
WO2003011980A1 (fr) * 2001-07-31 2003-02-13 Flex Products, Inc. Flocons pigmentaires a diffraction et compositions associees
EP1477154A1 (fr) * 2003-05-16 2004-11-17 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un pigment diffractant et un agent de coloration goniochromatique
WO2005055965A1 (fr) * 2003-12-10 2005-06-23 Eckart Gmbh & Co. Kg Composition cosmetique servant a produire une pellicule cosmetique d'aspect miroitant metallique et polychrome et ongle artificiel
WO2006037902A1 (fr) * 2004-10-05 2006-04-13 L'oreal Procede de maquillage au moyen d'une composition magnetique comportant au moins un pigment diffractant
WO2007007283A1 (fr) * 2005-07-13 2007-01-18 L'oreal Composition photoprotectrice et agents filtrants interferentiels destines a ladite composition

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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9168209B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168394B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168393B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9320687B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-04-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US11377565B2 (en) 2016-04-15 2022-07-05 Eckart Gmbh Surface-modified effect pigment and nail varnish composition
US11617707B2 (en) 2017-10-18 2023-04-04 Eckart Gmbh Nail varnish composition containing embossed effect pigments and surface-modified embossed effect pigments
US20210244634A1 (en) * 2018-07-16 2021-08-12 Eckart Gmbh Pvd-aluminum pigment dispersion and cosmetic formulations

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