WO2008006486A1

WO2008006486A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid, fillers and thickeners

Info

Publication number: WO2008006486A1
Application number: PCT/EP2007/005871
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rixa Dippe; Anja Drucks; Julia Eckert; Christel Meding; Jens Nielsen; Jens Treu
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2006-07-13
Filing date: 2007-07-03
Publication date: 2008-01-17
Also published as: DE102006032414A1; EP2046272A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, fillers and thickeners.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid, fillers and thickeners

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid, fillers and thickeners.

The skin is exposed to a variety of environmental factors that can lead to their damage. In addition to lipids and proteins, especially the DNA is affected.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays having a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC region) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB region, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower range around 308 nm is given.

For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, acidic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have available filter substances, since its rays can cause reactions in photosensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which the skin ages prematurely and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

Skin cells in particular receive a high proportion of DNA damage as a result of frequent UV exposure and therefore require particularly efficient and efficient repair systems. Only efficient, proprietary DNA repair systems are able to quickly repair damage that can prevent skin alteration and early onset of skin aging. Efficient DNA repair thus contributes significantly to maintaining a healthy, vital skin. Stimulation and support of skin-own repair systems by cosmetic-dermatological ingredients are therefore very important-

The high reliability of DNA replication required in view of the large number of nucleotides that have to be copied per cell division is guaranteed, on the one hand, by the specificity of the DNA polymerases involved in replication (replicases) and, on the other hand, by their additional exonuclease activity: They catalyze the excision of inappropriate nucleotides and their replacement by the correct ones immediately after the new synthesis. The damage caused by chemical action (by mutagens, some of which can intervene between two superimposed base pairs of the double helix) as well as the radiation-induced changes (eg two superimposed thymine residues can dimerize) help repair enzymes (including: Endonucleases, polymerases, ligases) that cut out and replace inappropriate nucleotides again from the DNA. Some of these repair systems are inducible, i. H. they are synthesized only when needed. The question of which strand contains the original information and which was wrongly synthesized is apparently decided by the repair enzyme on the basis of the state of methylation.

Exposure to environmental influences (eg UV radiation, chemical and physical factors) causes damage to the DNA molecules of the cells of the body, which can, however, be remedied by cellular DNA repair mechanisms. First of all, the DNA damage is detected and then the damage is repaired. If the damage is not completely eliminated shortly after it has been formed by repair processes, these accumulate in the form of permanent DNA damage in the cells and are subsequently passed on to the daughter cells. This permanent damage, in particular due to possible late effects (gradual loss of function), has a high potential for damage and is playing an increasingly important role in aging processes and in the initiation of damage already in childhood.

Object of the present invention was therefore to remedy the evils of the prior art remedy. In particular, active ingredients and preparations should be provided which should ensure a reliable prophylaxis of damage to the skin's own DNA and / or in a particular embodiment should be used to repair damage already occurred to the skin's own DNA.

Folic acid has the following structure:

Folic acid occurs in liver, kidney, yeast, fungi, cereals and green leaves, predominantly as a conjugate with poly-γ-L-glutamic acid (pteroylpolyglutamic acids). It has been discovered as a growth substance for various microorganisms and has a vitamin character for the human organism. Adult human needs are about 200 μg per day of bioavailable folate.

Folic acid in the organism is in equilibrium with 7,8-dihydrofolic acid (H ₂ folate, old abbreviation: FH ₂ ) with the participation of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate and the enzyme dihydrofolate reductase. H ₂ folate in turn is produced in plants and some microorganisms via several intermediates of guanosine 5'-triphosphate (guanosine phosphates) and uses dihydrofolate reductase to convert (6S) -5,6,7,8-tetrahydrofolic acid, the actual physiologically active form of folic acid.

7,8-Dihydrofolic acid has the following chemical structure:

(6S) -5,6,7,8-tetrahydrofolic acid has the following chemical structure:

The term derivatives of folic acid is to be understood in particular as meaning the abovementioned dihydrofolic acid and the tetrahydrofolic acid.

Folic acid-containing skin care products should be pleasant to use in addition to the positive effect on the skin. Powder raw materials give a pleasant silky velvet skin feeling. However, both folic acid (electrolyte) and powder raw materials destabilize an emulsion, so that the combination in an emulsion is often not storage and heat stable.

This problem is solved according to the invention by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid and / or derivatives thereof, fillers and thickeners According to the invention, folic acid and / or derivatives thereof have a high potential for repairing damaged DNA. Furthermore, folic acid and / or its derivatives provide effective prophylaxis against DNA damage, especially those caused by UV radiation.

Fillers in the context of the present invention are particulate substances which as a rule do not produce any color effect in the cosmetic formulation in which they are used. Furthermore, fillers according to the invention usually have a low refractive index and, as a result, no or very little opacity.

The prior art knows a number of fillers, which z. B. serve as support materials in the formulation of powders or as viscosity and sensor modulators in emulsions or anhydrous formulations. Such fillers are also often used to obtain matting effects on the skin or to absorb sebum.

In addition, the use of fillers generally also affects the spreadability of conventional formulations on the skin and the uniformity of a possible color effect.

The fillers in the context of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group of inorganic fillers, for example from the group of silicates.

Silicates are salts and esters (silicic acid esters) of orthosilicic acid [Si (OH) ₄ ] and their condensation products. The silicates are not only the most species-rich class of minerals, but also extremely important geologically and technically. Over 80% of the earth's crust is made up of silicates.

For the purposes of the present invention, for example, phyllosilicates are advantageous. Layer silicates (phyllosilicates, leaf silicates) are (ideally) silicate structures with two-dimensionally infinite layers of [SiO ₄ ] ^{4 '} tetrahedra, each tetrahedron being connected via 3 bridging oxygens with neighboring tetrahedra. Chemical formulas can only be approximated for phyllosilicates because they have a large ion exchange capacity and silicon can be exchanged for aluminum and this in turn against magnesium, Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Zn and the like. The resulting possibly negative charge of the layers is usually compensated by cations, in particular by Na ⁺ and Ca ²⁺ in interlayer positions.

Phyllosilicates can be obtained by reversible storage of water (in the 2- to 7-fold amount) and other substances such. As alcohols, glycols and the like swell. Their use as thickeners in cosmetic products is accordingly known per se. However, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

Advantageous phyllosilicates which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, those whose largest expansion direction in the unmodified and unswollen state has an average length of less than 10 μm. For example, the mean extents of the modified layered silicate particles used may be 1000 nm × 100 nm × 1 nm and less. The effective size of the modified layered silicate particles in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation of course depends on the amount of stored substances.

Particularly advantageous (layered) silicates according to the invention are:

Talc: Mg ₃ [Si ₄ O ₁₀ ] (OH) ₂ ,

Kaolin: Al ₂ [Si ₂ O ₅ ] (OH) ₄

Montmorillonite: M ⁺ Al [Si ₂ O ₅ ] (OH), also called smectite. These include:

• Bentonite = montmorillonite with Ca (filler earth) or Na (Wyoming bentonite)

Hectorites: MV ₃ (Mg _2J Li ₀₁₃ ) [Si ₄ O ₁₀ (OH) ₂ ], where M ^{+ is} usually Na ⁺ ,

Mica, an aluminosilicate that is easily fissile and is present in tabular crystals. Mica is transparent to translucent and has pearlescence. The most important form is muscovite: K Al ₂ [AISi ₃ O ₁₀ ] (OH, F) ₂ . Sericite is a special form of mica that has smaller platelets than muscovite. Magnesium silicate Mg ₂ [Si ₄ Oi ₀ ] Also, silicon oxides (SiO ₂ ) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. Aerosils (fumed silica), which are highly disperse silicas with frequently irregular shape, whose specific surface area is generally very large (200-400 m ² / g) and which can be controlled by means of the production process, are preferred according to the invention. Aerosils are also referred to as: Amorphous Silica Amorphous Silicon Oxide Hydrate Silica, Amorphous Silicic Anhydride Silicon Dioxide Silicon Dioxide.

According to the invention advantageous aerosols are z. For example, available under the following handle names:

Aerosil 130 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 200 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 255 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 300 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil 380 (Degussa Hüls), B-6C (Suzuki Yushi), CAB-O-SIL Fumed silica (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL EH-5 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL HS-5 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL LM-130 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL MS-55 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL M-5 (Cabot), E-6C (Suzuki Yushi), Fossil Flour MBK (MBK), MSS-500 (Kobo), Neosil CT 1 1 (Crosfield Co.), Ronasphere ( Rona / EM Industries), Silica, Anhydrous 31 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels), Silica, Crystalline 216 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels), Silotrat-1 (Vevy), Sorbosil AC33 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC 35 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC 37 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC 39 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil AC77 (Crosfield Co.), Sorbosil TC 15 (Crosfield Co.), Spherica (Ikeda), Spheriglass (Potters' Ballo- tini), Spheron L-1500 (Pres- perse), Spheron N-2000 (Pres- perese), Spheron P-1500 (Presperse), Wacker HDK H 30 (Wacker-Chemie), Wacker HDK N 20 (Wacker-Chemie) , Wacker HDK P 100 H (Wacker Silic ones), Wacker HDK N 2OP (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK N 25P (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK S 13 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK T 30 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK V 15 (Wacker chemistry) Chemistry), Wacker HDK V 15 P (Wacker-Chemie), Cellec Sil (DuPont).

Silicon oxides can also be produced in a spherical form, in which case the specific surface area is smaller than in the aerosils, since the particles are larger and round. An example of this are the Ronaspheren (average particle diameter <3 μ) from. Merck (see Figure 1).

Further fillers preferred according to the invention are silicas whose free OH groups on the particle surface are (completely or partially) organically modified. Advantageous z. For example, the obtainable by addition of dimethylsilyl groups silica dimethyl silylates, such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS -720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry).

Further advantageous are the silicates obtainable by addition of trimethylsilyl groups (eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipemat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry)).

Also advantageous in the context of the present invention are the polymethylsilsesquioxanes obtainable by hydrolysis and condensation reactions of methyltrimethoxysilanes, which likewise have a round shape and whose particle size distribution can be controlled by the preparation.

Preferred polymethylsilsesquioxanes are available, for example, under the trade names Tospearl 2000 B from GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres from A & E Connock and Wacker-Belsil PMS MK from Wacker-Chemie.

Another advantageous filler in the context of the present invention is boron nitride. Boron nitride is isoelectronic with carbon (i.e., graphite and diamond shapes are possible). Boron nitride is characterized by its chemical inertness.

For the purposes of the present invention, for example, the boron nitrides listed below are advantageous:

Trade name available from:

Boron Nitride Powder Advanced Ceramics

Boron Nitride Powder Sintec ceramic

Ceram Blanche Kawasaki

HCST Boron Nitride Strong

Tres ^BN® carborundum

Wacker boron nitride BNP Wacker-Chemie Further advantageous fillers in the context of the present invention are carbonates, such as. As magnesium carbonate (MgCO ₃ ) and calcium carbonate (CaCO ₃ ). It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use the carbonates as fillers in dry powders.

The fillers in the context of the present invention are also advantageously selected from the group of organic fillers.

According to the invention advantageous organic fillers are, for. As natural polymers, such as silk powder, microcrystalline cellulose and / or zinc stearates.

Advantageous organic fillers are also starch and starch derivatives, such as:

=> Corn Starch Zea Mays (Amidon De Corn MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Com Starch (Com

Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Processing), Purity 21 C (National Starch)), => Rice Starch (DSA 7, Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos)), => Distarch Phosphate (Com PO4 (Agrana Starch), Com PO4 (Tn-K)), => Sodium Com Starch Octenylsuccinate (C ^* EmCap - Instant 12639 (Cerestar USA)), => Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr), Dry FIo-PC (National

Starch), Dry FIo Pure (National Starch), Fluidamide DF 12 (Roquette)),

Organic fillers preferred according to the invention are also synthetic polymers, ie. H. Polymer particles which are present in the preparation in the form of solids, such as polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyacrylates and the like. Particularly advantageous is z. B. the substance with the INCI name HDI / trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, which is available under the name BPD-500 / Plastic Powder D from Kobo.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention is nylon (polyamide 6 and polyamide 12), for example microfine polyamide particles, in particular those available under the trade name SP-500 from TORAY. Also advantageous are polyamide 6- (also: nylon 6), or polyamide 12 (also: nylon 1-2), particles. Polyamide 6 is the polyamide [poly (ε-caprolactam)] synthesized from ε-aminocaproic acid (6-aminohexanoic acid) or ε-caprolactam, and polyamide 12 is a poly (ε-laurinlactam) from ε-laurolactam. Advantageous in the sense of the present invention are, for example Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide 6), and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide 12) from ELF ATOCHEM.

Further advantageous organic fillers are:

=> PMMA: polymethyl methacrylates

=> Polyethylene spheres

=> Polyurethanes

=> Silicone Resins: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (eg SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)

=> Silicone elastomers

So it may be z. For example, it may be of considerable advantage to use such silicone elastomers in formulations according to the present invention, as described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 4,980,167 or 4,742,142. Advantageous silicone elastomers are also z. For example, those sold under the names KSG6 by Shin Etsu, Tefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow Corning, Gransil by Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR-DMF10, SR-DC556), as well as those known in the art in the form of preformed gels (such as KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18 from Shin Etsu, Gransil SP 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC 556 gel, Gransil GCM, Gransil PM gel, Gransil DMG -5, SF 1204 and JK 113 from Gereral Electric). Further advantageous silicone elastomers can be selected from the group of vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, such as. Dow Corning 9506 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Coming (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

So-called silicone resins, such as e.g. KSP-100, KSP-200 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, which are also listed under the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or SR 1000 from GE Bayer Silicones, which bears the INCI name Trimethylsiloxy Silicate

Also preferred is lauroyl lysine, which is sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amihope LL.

The total amount of at least one filler in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range of 0.05-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Fillers preferred according to the invention come from the group of inorganic or organic silicon compounds.

Of the inorganic silicon compounds, the layer silicates are particularly preferred. Of these, kaolin, talc and mica are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the preferred inorganic silicon compounds include the surface of the organically modified spherical particles.

Of these, particularly preferred are the polymethylsilsesquioxanes and hydrophobically modified aerosils, e.g. Aerosil R 972.

Organic silicon compounds include the siloxane elastomers and siloxane resins. Of these, particularly preferred are the KSP types from Shin Etsu, as well as the trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Further inventively preferred fillers come from the group of spherical particles. More preferably, the average particle diameter is less than 20 microns. Furthermore, preference is given to choosing spherical particles of organic origin. Particularly preferred is the BPD-500 marketed by Kobo.

Furthermore, spherical particles having an average particle diameter of less than 10 μm are preferred. Of these, particularly preferred are nylon-12, e.g. sold as SP-501 or SP-500 by the company Kobo. Further preferred are polymethyl methacrylates, e.g. sold under the trade name Covabead LH 85 by LCW.

It is further preferred to use bismuth oxychloride or boron nitride.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparations are characterized in that they contain 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, on one or more fillers.

According to the invention, thickeners are preferably selected from the group of hydrocolloids. "Hydrocolloid" is the technological abbreviation for the correct name. "Hydrophilic colloid." Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that are largely linear in shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that allow side and major valence bonds between the individual molecules to form a reticulate structure that are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers Forming gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems, they increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by taking up and enveloping the water in their interwoven macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media, provided that these polymers have a solubility for water solubility have sufficient number of hydrophilic groups and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:

-NH ₂ -COOH-COO ^" M ⁺ -NR ₂

-NH-R O -SO ₃ ^" M ⁺ (CH ₂ J _n

-OH - NH-C- -NHo -POs ^' M ^{2 "} SO ₃ ^"

-SH NH -NH ₃ X + -NR ₂

- O - NH-C-NH ₂ -NR ₂ H _X -

I (CH ₂ J _n - N- -HNL .N .NH ₂ -NR ₃ X ^'COO ^".

-PR ₃ X

N N

NH ₂ O ^'

+ / - CH = N

O

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows: organic, natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,

Gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,

Starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, organic, modified natural products such. Carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulosic ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose and the like, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such. As polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds such. As polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicic acids.

Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

Structural formula I in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ -COONa. Particularly preferred is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, also known as cellulose gum, available under the tradename Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon.

Also preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 * 10 ⁶ to 24 * 10 ⁶ . Xanthan comes with a chain ß-1, 4-bonded glucose (cellulose) formed with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Frequently, the term carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%. Carrageenan, which dissolves very easily in warm water); Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. Carrageenan has three main components: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ-fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals u. easily soluble in cold water. The ι-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also denoted by Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans. The use of chitosan in cosmetic preparations is known per se. Chitosan is a partially deacylated chitin. This biopolymer has film-forming properties and a silky feel on the skin. A disadvantage, however, is its strong stickiness on the skin, which occurs in particular - temporarily - during use. Corresponding preparations may then not be marketable in individual cases, as they are not accepted by the consumer or assessed negatively. Chitosan is known to be used for example in hair care. It is better than the underlying chitin, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymeric films. Representative of a variety of references of the prior art: HP Fiedler, "Encyclopedia of excipients for pharmacy, cosmetics and related fields", third edition 1989, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, p. 293, keyword "Chitosan".

Chitosan is characterized by the following structural formula:

n values up to about 10,000, X represents either the acetyl radical or hydrogen. Chitosan is formed by deacetylation and partial depolymerization (hydrolysis) of chitin, which by the structural formula

is marked. Chitin is an essential component of the ectoskeleton [O χiτωv = Greek: the armored skirt] of arthropods (eg insects, crabs, spiders) and is also found in supporting tissues of other organisms (eg molluscs, algae, fungi).

In the range of about pH <6 chitosan is positively charged and there also soluble in aqueous systems. It is not compatible with anionic raw materials. For this reason, the use of nonionic emulsifiers is suitable for producing chitosan-containing oil-in-water emulsions. These are known per se, for example from EP-A 776 657.

Preference according to the invention is given to chitosans having a degree of deacetylation of> 25%, in particular> 55 to 99% [determined by means of ¹ H-NMR]).

It is advantageous to choose chitosans with molecular weights between 10,000 and 1,000,000, especially those with molecular weights between 100,000 and 1,000,000. [determined by gel permeation chromatography].

Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of B.F. Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate copolymer (s) according to the invention are characterized by the following structure:

In this formula, R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers. Particularly preferred according to the invention are acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 from the BF Goodrich Company.

Also advantageous are copolymers of C _1o-3 o-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Advantageously, compounds bearing the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Particularly advantageous are those available under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 from the B.F. Goodrich Company.

The total amount of one or more thickeners in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously less than 1, 5 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations selected.

According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations may be composed as usual and used for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

They preferably contain from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of folic acid and / or its derivatives.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be present in various forms. For example, they may contain a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsion, for example water-type. in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or even an aerosol. It is also advantageous in accordance with the invention to administer folic acid and / or its derivatives in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other customary encapsulating materials, for example as encapsulated encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated. In particular wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282, have been found to be favorable. It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to incorporate folic acid and / or derivatives thereof into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, colorants, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or cosmetic dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, according to the invention, folic acid and / or its derivatives can also be combined with other antioxidants and / or radical scavengers.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group: mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, further natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof. The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2 Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -mob nobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl- or -monobutylether , Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyuronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopol, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain, for example, the said fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is customarily used for such a type of formulation. Gels according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an abovementioned oil in the presence of a thickener, which in the case of oily-alcoholic gels preferably silica or an aluminum silicate in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Suitable propellants for preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers according to the invention are the customary known highly volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or mixed with one another. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic preparations for To provide the hair or the skin against the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All amounts, proportions and percentages are, unless otherwise stated, percentages by weight, based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid and / or their derivatives, fillers and thickeners.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the filler or fillers are selected from the group nylon (polyamide 6 and polyamide 12), Polymethylsilsesquio- xane, titanium dioxides, starch (tapioca starch, corn starch), talc, siloxane elastomers.

3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the thickener (s) are selected from the group carbomer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Chondrus Crispus, xanthan gum.

4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 1% by weight, in particular 0.05-0, 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of folic acid and / or derivatives thereof.

5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they 0.001 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fillers.

6. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they contain less than 1, 5 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more thickeners contain.