WO2007031650A1 - Multilayer single-piece brassiere component and method for making same - Google Patents

Multilayer single-piece brassiere component and method for making same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007031650A1
WO2007031650A1 PCT/FR2006/002106 FR2006002106W WO2007031650A1 WO 2007031650 A1 WO2007031650 A1 WO 2007031650A1 FR 2006002106 W FR2006002106 W FR 2006002106W WO 2007031650 A1 WO2007031650 A1 WO 2007031650A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
layer
textile
coating
silicone
bra
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2006/002106
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Francis Watrin
Manon Turlan
Nadège LOGRE
Original Assignee
Dba Lux 1 Sarl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dba Lux 1 Sarl filed Critical Dba Lux 1 Sarl
Priority to CA002622591A priority Critical patent/CA2622591A1/en
Priority to ES06808131.4T priority patent/ES2488400T3/en
Priority to EP06808131.4A priority patent/EP1928273B1/en
Priority to PL06808131T priority patent/PL1928273T3/en
Publication of WO2007031650A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007031650A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/10—Brassieres with stiffening or bust-forming inserts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • A41C5/005—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres by moulding

Definitions

  • Multilayer one-piece bra element and method of manufacturing the same
  • the present invention relates to a multilayer one-piece bra element and its method of manufacture.
  • a substantially seamless bra composed of a multilayer one-piece complex is known for example from the document US2003 / 0092356: two layers of inner and outer fabric respectively are laminated by a heat-sensitive adhesive or by a hot melt they bear on their face back, and between it padding possibly associated with frames.
  • the padding may be a layer of foam or a pocket of oil. This layer of padding is not moldable, which affects the comfort of the bra
  • the object of the invention is to provide a new seamless bra element composed of a multilayer one-piece complex but offering improved comfort and breast support qualities.
  • the invention achieves its goal by virtue of a bra element consisting of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a molded bonnet area and a flat area around the bonnet at least below it to form, in particular, the basque, the multi-layered one-piece complex comprising an inner layer of textile and an outer layer of textile separated at least in the region of the cup by at least one layer of intermediate material giving a thickness, the textile layers being made integral with each other at least in an edge zone of the element, characterized in that the two textile layers are made integral at least in the edge zone by a first silicone coating, and that a second silicone coating is provided on the intermediate layer.
  • first and “second” do not prejudge the order in which these layers are arranged during manufacture.
  • the silicone coating layer which renders the two textile layers integral can be interposed directly between these two layers, in particular in the zone of the edges, or, at least in places, by means of another layer which is itself secured. to one or the other of the textile layers, for example the intermediate layer.
  • the second coating provided on the intermediate layer may be made via an adjacent layer and secured to the intermediate layer.
  • the coatings may be made by directly coating the relevant layer of silicone, or by first coating the silicone on another layer that is then applied against the layer concerned, or against which the layer concerned applies.
  • the multilayer complex comprises on the inner textile layer the first silicone coating, then the intermediate layer, then the second silicone coating, then the outer layer of textile.
  • the first silicone coating extends only in the area of the edges of the article, or over a larger part of the article, or even the entirety or substantially the entirety of the article, and even preferably with a slight overflow on the blank to predict the final cuts in the parts secured by the silicone.
  • the second silicone coating extends only to the portions of the cup areas receiving the intermediate material layer.
  • At least a portion of one of the textile layers constitutes with the intermediate material layer a thick spacer fabric in one piece.
  • the entire surface of the multilayer complex may comprise this thick spacer fabric in one piece.
  • the second coating is carried out only in the basque zone, preferably in relatively thick form, that is to say preferably between 0.5 mm and 2 mm, and even more advantageously between 1 mm and 1, 5 mm.
  • this coating The surface layer can play the role of traditional reinforcements in terms of support, but without the drawbacks of their rigidity and linear presence.
  • the first coating extends over the entire article. It is in relatively thin form, that is to say preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm, advantageously between 0.1 mm and 0.3 mm.
  • the multilayer complex in this second embodiment therefore advantageously comprises the thick spacer fabric, the second silicone coating in the basque area, the first silicone coating and the second textile layer.
  • the bra element according to the invention can be associated, by any means, with a symmetrical element to form a bra.
  • the element can also comprise unitary two cup areas so as to form alone at least the entire front of the bra.
  • the multilayer complex advantageously comprises, between the two cup zones, a separator made of a material that is not very extensible, for example in a stuck mesh.
  • the element can receive back parts that can be made of any other material or it can include these back parts unitarily.
  • At least one of the textile layers is advantageously made of a knit whose mesh is relatively extensible.
  • the silicone is a silicone of the family of liquid silicones crosslinkable hot, preferably two-component. Its viscosity is preferably between 100,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s.
  • At least one intermediate layer consists of a foam of synthetic material, other than the non-crosslinkable polyurethane foam.
  • At least one intermediate layer consists of a three-dimensional knit.
  • the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing the bra which has just been defined.
  • the invention therefore relates to a method of manufacturing a bra composed of a multilayer one-piece complex forming two molded cup areas and a flat area between, under and outside the cups to form in particular a basque and backs, the multi-layered one-piece complex comprising an inner layer of textile and a textile outer layer separated at least in the region of the cups by at least one layer of intermediate material giving a thickness, the textile layers being rendered secured to each other at least in the region of the edges of the bra, characterized in that a first silicone coating is provided between the two layers of textile so as to make them integral at least in the area of the edges, and the intermediate layer is coated with a second silicone coating.
  • the method comprises the steps of:
  • the method comprises the steps of:
  • Placement of the intermediate layer on the textile-coated outer layer Placement of the assembly consisting of the outer layer coated and provided with the intermediate layer on the inner layer coated.
  • the method comprises the steps of:
  • At least one of the coatings is by screen printing.
  • At least one screen printing step is in two steps consisting of firstly producing a thin coating which is partially reticulated followed by coating of the remainder of the thickness.
  • At least one screen printing step is made in a screen-printing frame on a textile material whose non-screened face is covered with an airtight film, for example a sheet of paper thermo-bonded to the textile.
  • at least one serigraphy coating step is in a screen printing frame comprising a thin fabric and a thin sheet metal mask to allow the screen printing of a relatively large thickness of silicone.
  • the method of the invention comprises the thermoforming of the cups Advantageously, it comprises at the same time that the thermoforming cups the total crosslinking of the bra.
  • the method of the invention may include the placement of reinforcements, and in particular the placement of silicone reinforcements.
  • Figure 1 is a perspective view of a first textile thickness constituting a first layer of the bra of the invention, according to a first embodiment.
  • Figure 2 is a perspective view of the first fabric thickness of Figure 1 on which a silicone layer is disposed.
  • Figure 3 is a perspective view of a second fabric thickness constituting a second layer of the bra of the invention, on which a layer of silicone has been deposited.
  • Figure 4 is a perspective view of the product of Figure 3, on which was deposited a thick reinforcing layer and reinforcements.
  • Figure 5 is an exploded schematic sectional view of the various layers of the complex constituting the bra of the invention.
  • Figure 6 is a front view of a bra finished according to the invention.
  • Figure 7 is a perspective view of a first thickness of textile constituting a first layer of the bra of the invention, according to a second embodiment.
  • Figure 8 is a perspective view of the first textile thickness of Figure 7 on which is deposited a silicone layer at the base of the future bra.
  • Figure 9 is a perspective view of the assembly of Figure 8 on which is deposited a silicone layer flat on the entire surface of the future bra.
  • Figure 10 is a perspective view of the assembly of Figure 9 on which is placed a separator, before laying the second textile layer.
  • FIG 11 is an exploded schematic sectional view of the various layers of the complex constituting the bra of the invention according to the second embodiment.
  • the bra of the invention is made in the form of a seamless one-piece multi-layer complex, to which will be added the shoulder pads and the assembly parts.
  • the complex combines textile dressing materials, intermediate materials giving the thickness and reinforcement, intended to give the maintenance and enhancement effect in the cups, and silicone intended to ensure the connections between layers, the elasticity complex and nervousness of the back, holding and maintaining thermoformed cups, as well as the ability to cut the edges of the article sharply.
  • the reinforcing materials may be foams or so-called 3D textiles, other flexible materials that can give volume and be thermoformed.
  • FIGS. 1 to 5 The manufacture of a first embodiment of the bra will be explained with reference to FIGS. 1 to 5. It starts on the one hand with a layer of textile covering material 20 (FIGS. 1 and 2) and FIG. on the other hand a layer of textile covering material 30 ( Figures 3 and 4). On the thickness of textile 20, it comes to deposit a layer of silicone
  • the silicone layer is advantageously deposited by screen printing by means of a suitable screen printing frame.
  • the textile thickness 30 On the textile thickness 30, it is independently deposited by screen printing a silicone layer 31 on all or part of the two substantially triangular locations for receiving the reinforcements and to form the cups or socks.
  • the multilayer complex represented in FIG. 5 is thus obtained, thus composed of the thickness of interior trim fabric 20, silicone 21, reinforcing material 32, reinforcements 33, silicone 31 and the thickness of textile. outside covering 30.
  • thermoforming on a mold advantageously treating the two cups simultaneously, at about 200 0 C for about 60s.
  • This thermoforming makes it possible to deform and fix the textiles to the curved shape of the mold. It makes it possible to crosslink at the same time the silicone which will keep the shape of the mold permanently, which represents a major innovative aspect of the present invention.
  • the thermoforming machine may comprise around cups cups a flat heating zone, fixed or movable relative to cups of cups themselves, sufficient to simultaneously allow crosslinking of the silicone included in the areas other than the cups.
  • the cups may be cross-linked during thermoforming and then the entire product may be passed through a heating tunnel. between about 15O 0 C and 200 0 C for one to two minutes to crosslink the silicone that has not yet been, including the back.
  • the multilayer thermoformed complex is then cut on its periphery to give it a finished look to its final dimensions.
  • This cutting can be done by ultrasound, especially if one wants to bind together the two layers of dressing materials (if they are partly made of hot melt material). Ultrasound is not necessary, however, since the silicone already binds the layers sufficiently between them and a mechanical cut is sufficient. It then simply to fix the stapling and shoulder connectors by a known technique, including ultrasound using claw connectors or through pins.
  • the article 10 of FIG. 6 is then obtained, with cups 11 formed, surrounded at their lower and lateral external part by a true or false armature 12 (optional).
  • the connectors 13 fix the shoulder pads 14 and complementary stapling devices 15 are attached to the end of the backs 16.
  • the first layer of textile consists of a layer unitary 100 of a thick fabric ("spacer fabric") consisting of two knitted faces 120 and 122 interconnected by knitting so as to simultaneously form the first inner textile layer 120 and the intermediate layer 132.
  • These thick fabrics also called three-dimensional knits or 3D knits, which have the particular advantage of not being subject to delamination inasmuch as they consist of a single knitting, are known for example from documents US Pat. No. 6,037,035, US Pat. No. 6,779,369 or WO20044046439. It may also be two webs joined by knitting, for example by means of a monofilament.
  • the weight of this layer may be of the order of 300 to 500 g / m 2 .
  • this layer 100 of 3D knit a coating 131 (see Figure 8) of silicone limited to the Basque zone, that is to say to the part intended to come under the cups, substantially surrounding half lower cups.
  • This coating 131 intended to have a certain thickness, for example 1.3 mm, to play actively its role of reinforcement and maintenance, is advantageously carried out in two successive layers 131 '(thin layer, for example 0.15 mm) and 131 ", as shown in FIG 11, for the reasons that will be explained later
  • This limited coating 131 is crosslinked at least partially to fix it, for example at infra-red, and preferably twice, as will be seen later.
  • the entire covering is covered by the textile outer layer covering material 130.
  • This may have previously been the subject of a total or partial coating of silicone 102, decorative and / or structural, independently crosslinked.
  • the assembly thus obtained which corresponds to the sandwich structure shown in FIG. 11, is then thermoformed to form the cups in their concave shape (inside), advantageously in a single machine capable of cross-linking the entire surface of the support -throat.
  • the bra is then completed as in the first embodiment by the installation of the fasteners and straps.
  • the covering material (when it is not directly constituted by a face of a 3D knit) is advantageously an elastic knit, for example a charmeuse with a composition of about 80% microfiber polyamide and 20% elastane 44 dtex, from 180 to 200 g / m 2 . Its elasticity is at least 100% in the edge direction and at least 50% in the weft direction.
  • This material can receive a primer, provided that it does not block the attachment of the silicone layer.
  • This primer can in particular be made by a silicone emulsion incorporating various adjuvants.
  • the material or materials used for the intermediate layer or reinforcement is for example a flexible foam or, as already described, a three-dimensional material knitted on double needle looms, made of one or more son. These materials have the characteristic of having thickness (between 2 and 3 mm). They can be for example in polyamide, elastane, or polyester. They are in all cases thermoformable.
  • the reinforcement of flexible material is not necessary. It may consist if necessary in a simple silicone bead intended for its thickness to give the illusion of a frame.
  • the silicone used for the bonding layers is an elastomer of the LSR family (liquid silicone rubber), in particular two-component. It is advantageously hot cross-linking polydimethylsiloxane by platinum-catalyzed addition. Its hardness is 30 shore, its elongation at break is 600%, its viscosity is 300,000 mPa.s.
  • the silicone is deposited by screen printing using appropriate frames, of the type used for conventional printing, and made of webs smaller than 25 mesh, for example a 12-160 fabric composed of 12 threads. to cm each having a diameter of 160 microns.
  • a capillary film is glued on the resin so as to increase the thickness of the silicone deposit that can be achieved and thus create the desired elasticity on the product. It is also possible to glue on the canvas of the silkscreen frame a sheet, very thin (for example 200 to 600 ⁇ m) in stainless steel, previously cut to the template to be printed.
  • the canvas of the frame can itself be cut at the level of the cut of the sheet, the sheet cut (and supported outside the cut by the fabric) serving as a stencil.
  • a squeegee is used and advantageously a counter-squeegee.
  • the squeegee may be of rubber, of square section, of 75 shore hardness: it is intended to perform the actual screen printing.
  • the against-squeegee can also be rubber, round section, 65 shore hardness, and is intended to equalize the deposition of silicone on the screen printing frame.
  • the counter-squeegee can also be metal or hard plastic.
  • the silicone thickness for the solid coating is very thin, typically less than 0.5 mm and preferably between 0.1 mm and 0.3 mm. Naturally, thickness conditions the nervousness characteristics of the final complex. To achieve the desired goals, it is It is possible to produce a silicone coating of different types or different thickness depending on the region, especially in limited regions such as the region of the Basque, a region which requires greater nervousness and therefore a greater thickness of silicone (there, thickness can for example reach from 1 mm to 1.5 mm) and / or a greater hardness (for example of the order of 50 shore, with an elongation of 470% and a viscosity of 900 000 mPa.s).
  • two steps are deposited: first a thin layer with an intermediate crosslinking of the first deposited layer, before depositing the second layer making the rest of the thickness. It has been found that this method makes it possible to eliminate considerably the problems of air bubbles which occur when the thickness increases and give a whitish appearance to the product.
  • the crosslinking of the thin layer is preferably incomplete so as to allow good adhesion of the second layer. It is also advantageous to block the flow of air through the textile layer being coated by providing on the other side a sheet of heat-sealed paper.
  • the heating tunnels can be traditional ovens heated by electric resistance; which allows progressive crosslinking with diffuse heat.
  • the technique of flash infra red r, optionally combined with metal masks cut disposed between the infrared lamp and the material to limit direct radiation may also be used in the area to be crosslinked.
  • the silicone of this layer can be glossy, matte, transparent, colored, opaque, glittery. Its function can be essentially decorative or also confer in certain regions a specific maintenance.
  • the covering material coated with the additional silicone layer is passed a first time in a heating tunnel to crosslink a first time the silicone which will be crosslinked a second time during thermoforming.
  • the inner lining layer 20, 120 it is also possible to coat the inner lining layer 20, 120 with an additional inner layer of silicone, either continuous or reasons.
  • the silicone of this layer is intended to be in contact with the skin, for example to adhere the product to the body.

Abstract

The invention concerns a brassiere component consisting of a multilayer single-piece complex element forming a molded cup zone and a planar zone around the cup at least below same to form in particular a midriff band; the multilayer single-piece complex element comprises an inner textile layer (120) and an outer textile layer (130) separated at least in the cup zone by at least one intermediate material layer (132) providing a thickness, the textile layers being secured to each other in at least one peripheral zone of the component. The invention is characterized in that the two textile layers (120; 130) are secured at least on the peripheral zone by a first silicone coat (121), and in that there is provided on the intermediate layer (132) a second silicone coat (131).

Description

Elément de soutien-gorge monopièce multicouche et son procédé de fabrication Multilayer one-piece bra element and method of manufacturing the same
La présente invention concerne un élément de soutien-gorge monopièce multicouche et son procédé de fabrication.The present invention relates to a multilayer one-piece bra element and its method of manufacture.
Un soutien-gorge essentiellement sans couture composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche est connu par exemple par le document US2003/0092356 : deux couches de tissu respectivement intérieure et extérieure sont contrecollées par un adhésif thermosensible ou par une mousse thermofusible qu'ils portent sur leur face d'envers, et enferment entre elle un rembourrage éventuellement associé à des armatures. Le rembourrage peut être une couche de mousse ou une poche d'huile. Cette couche de rembourrage n'est pas moulable, ce qui nuit au confort du soutien-gorgeA substantially seamless bra composed of a multilayer one-piece complex is known for example from the document US2003 / 0092356: two layers of inner and outer fabric respectively are laminated by a heat-sensitive adhesive or by a hot melt they bear on their face back, and between it padding possibly associated with frames. The padding may be a layer of foam or a pocket of oil. This layer of padding is not moldable, which affects the comfort of the bra
La Demanderesse a par ailleurs décrit dans le document US2004/0224603 un soutien-gorge utilisant pour la construction des bonnets un tissu épais d'espacement moulé (dit « spacer fabric »), choisi pour ses qualités de maintien et de perméabilité, et utilisé dans une technique de fabrication traditionnelle impliquant des coutures. Les coutures modifient les qualités esthétiques et de confort de l'article, et d'autre part induisent des coûts de production plus élevés.The Applicant has also described in US2004 / 0224603 a brassiere using for the construction of the cups a thick fabric of spacing molded (called "spacer fabric"), chosen for its qualities of maintenance and permeability, and used in a traditional manufacturing technique involving seams. The seams alter the aesthetic and comfort qualities of the article, and on the other hand induce higher production costs.
Le but de l'invention est de proposer un nouveau élément de soutien- gorge sans couture composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche mais offrant des qualités de confort et de maintien de la poitrine améliorées.The object of the invention is to provide a new seamless bra element composed of a multilayer one-piece complex but offering improved comfort and breast support qualities.
L'invention atteint son but grâce à un élément de soutien-gorge composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche formant une zone de bonnet moulé et une zone plane autour du bonnet au moins au-dessous de celui-ci pour former notamment la basque, le complexe monopièce multicouche comprenant une couche intérieure de textile et une couche extérieure de textile séparée au moins dans la zone du bonnet par au moins une couche de matière intermédiaire donnant une épaisseur, les couches textiles étant rendues solidaires l'une de l'autre au moins dans une zone de bord de l'élément, caractérisé en ce que les deux couches de textile sont rendues solidaires au moins dans la zone de bord par une première enduction de silicone, et en ce qu'il est prévu sur la couche intermédiaire une seconde enduction de silicone. Ici, « première » et « seconde » ne préjugent pas de l'ordre dans lequel sont disposées ces couches lors de la fabrication. La couche d' enduction de silicone qui rend solidaires les deux couches textiles peut être interposée directement entre ces deux couches, notamment dans la zone des bords, ou, au moins par endroits, par l'intermédiaire d'une autre couche elle-même solidarisée à l'une ou l'autre des couches textiles, par exemple la couche intermédiaire. De même la seconde enduction prévue sur la couche intermédiaire peut être faite par l'intermédiaire d'une couche adjacente et solidaire de la couche intermédiaire. De plus, en pratique, les enductions peuvent se faire ou bien en enduisant directement la couche concernée de silicone, ou en enduisant d'abord le silicone sur une couche autre qu'on vient ensuite appliquer contre la couche concernée, ou contre laquelle la couche concernée vient s'appliquer.The invention achieves its goal by virtue of a bra element consisting of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a molded bonnet area and a flat area around the bonnet at least below it to form, in particular, the basque, the multi-layered one-piece complex comprising an inner layer of textile and an outer layer of textile separated at least in the region of the cup by at least one layer of intermediate material giving a thickness, the textile layers being made integral with each other at least in an edge zone of the element, characterized in that the two textile layers are made integral at least in the edge zone by a first silicone coating, and that a second silicone coating is provided on the intermediate layer. Here, "first" and "second" do not prejudge the order in which these layers are arranged during manufacture. The silicone coating layer which renders the two textile layers integral can be interposed directly between these two layers, in particular in the zone of the edges, or, at least in places, by means of another layer which is itself secured. to one or the other of the textile layers, for example the intermediate layer. Similarly, the second coating provided on the intermediate layer may be made via an adjacent layer and secured to the intermediate layer. In addition, in practice, the coatings may be made by directly coating the relevant layer of silicone, or by first coating the silicone on another layer that is then applied against the layer concerned, or against which the layer concerned applies.
Selon un premier mode de réalisation, le complexe multicouche comprend sur la couche intérieure de textile la première enduction de silicone, puis la couche intermédiaire, puis la seconde enduction de silicone, puis la couche extérieure de textile.According to a first embodiment, the multilayer complex comprises on the inner textile layer the first silicone coating, then the intermediate layer, then the second silicone coating, then the outer layer of textile.
La première enduction de silicone s'étend seulement dans la zone des bords de l'article, ou bien sur une plus grande partie de l'article, voire l'intégralité ou sensiblement l'intégralité de l'article, et même de préférence avec un léger débordement sur l'ébauche pour prévoir les découpes finales dans les parties solidarisées par le silicone.The first silicone coating extends only in the area of the edges of the article, or over a larger part of the article, or even the entirety or substantially the entirety of the article, and even preferably with a slight overflow on the blank to predict the final cuts in the parts secured by the silicone.
La seconde enduction de silicone s'étend seulement sur les parties des zones des bonnets recevant la couche de matière intermédiaire.The second silicone coating extends only to the portions of the cup areas receiving the intermediate material layer.
Selon un second mode de réalisation, au moins une partie d'une des couches textiles constitue avec la couche de matière intermédiaire un tissu épais d'espacement d'un seul tenant. Toute la surface du complexe multicouche peut comprendre ce tissu épais d'espacement d'un seul tenant.According to a second embodiment, at least a portion of one of the textile layers constitutes with the intermediate material layer a thick spacer fabric in one piece. The entire surface of the multilayer complex may comprise this thick spacer fabric in one piece.
Avantageusement, la seconde enduction est réalisée seulement dans la zone de basque, de préférence sous forme relativement épaisse, c'est-à- dire de préférence entre 0,5 mm et 2 mm, et même encore plus avantageusement entre 1 mm et 1,5 mm. Dans ce cas, cette enduction déposée en surface peut jouer complètement le rôle des armatures traditionnelles pour ce qui est du soutien, mais sans en avoir les inconvénients liés à leur rigidité et à leur présence linéaire.Advantageously, the second coating is carried out only in the basque zone, preferably in relatively thick form, that is to say preferably between 0.5 mm and 2 mm, and even more advantageously between 1 mm and 1, 5 mm. In this case, this coating The surface layer can play the role of traditional reinforcements in terms of support, but without the drawbacks of their rigidity and linear presence.
Avantageusement, la première enduction s'étend sur l'ensemble de l'article. Elle est sous forme relativement mince, c'est-à-dire de préférence entre 0,05 mm et 0,5 mm, avantageusement entre 0,1 mm et 0,3 mm.Advantageously, the first coating extends over the entire article. It is in relatively thin form, that is to say preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm, advantageously between 0.1 mm and 0.3 mm.
Le complexe multicouche dans ce second mode de réalisation comprend donc avantageusement le tissu épais d'espacement, la seconde enduction de silicone dans la zone de basque, la première enduction de silicone et la seconde couche textile.The multilayer complex in this second embodiment therefore advantageously comprises the thick spacer fabric, the second silicone coating in the basque area, the first silicone coating and the second textile layer.
L'élément de soutien-gorge conforme à l'invention peut être associé, par tous moyens, avec un élément symétrique pour former un soutien gorge. L'élément peut aussi comprendre de manière unitaire deux zones de bonnet de manière à former à lui seul au moins tout le devant du soutien-gorge. Dans ce dernier cas, le complexe multicouche comprend avantageusement entre les deux zones de bonnet un séparateur réalisé dans une matière peu extensible, par exemple en maille bloquée.The bra element according to the invention can be associated, by any means, with a symmetrical element to form a bra. The element can also comprise unitary two cup areas so as to form alone at least the entire front of the bra. In the latter case, the multilayer complex advantageously comprises, between the two cup zones, a separator made of a material that is not very extensible, for example in a stuck mesh.
De même, l'élément peut recevoir des parties de dos qui peuvent être réalisées dans tout autre matière ou bien il peut comprendre ces parties de dos de manière unitaire.Similarly, the element can receive back parts that can be made of any other material or it can include these back parts unitarily.
Au moins l'une des couches textiles, est avantageusement réalisée en un tricot dont la maille est relativement extensible.At least one of the textile layers is advantageously made of a knit whose mesh is relatively extensible.
Avantageusement, le silicone est un silicone de la famille des silicones liquides réticulables à chaud, de préférence bicomposant. Sa viscosité est de préférence comprise entre 100 000 et 1 000 0000 mPa.s.Advantageously, the silicone is a silicone of the family of liquid silicones crosslinkable hot, preferably two-component. Its viscosity is preferably between 100,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s.
Avantageusement, au moins une couche intermédiaire est constituée par une mousse de matière synthétique, autre que la mousse de polyuréthanne, non réticulable.Advantageously, at least one intermediate layer consists of a foam of synthetic material, other than the non-crosslinkable polyurethane foam.
Avantageusement, au moins une couche intermédiaire est constituée par un tricot tridimensionnel.Advantageously, at least one intermediate layer consists of a three-dimensional knit.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication du soutien-gorge qui vient d'être défini.The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing the bra which has just been defined.
L'invention concerne donc un procédé de fabrication d'un soutien- gorge composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche formant deux zones de bonnets moulés et une zone plane entre, sous et à l'extérieur des bonnets pour former notamment une basque et des dos, le complexe monopièce multicouche comprenant une couche intérieure de textile et une couche extérieure de textile séparée au moins dans la zone des bonnets par au moins une couche de matière intermédiaire donnant une épaisseur, les couches textiles étant rendues solidaires l'une de l'autre au moins dans la zone des bords du soutien-gorge, caractérisé en ce qu'on dispose une première enduction de silicone entre les deux couches de textile de manière à les rendre solidaires au moins dans la zone des bords, et on enduit la couche intermédiaire d'une seconde enduction de silicone. Selon un mode de mise en œuvre adapté au premier mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend les étapes de :The invention therefore relates to a method of manufacturing a bra composed of a multilayer one-piece complex forming two molded cup areas and a flat area between, under and outside the cups to form in particular a basque and backs, the multi-layered one-piece complex comprising an inner layer of textile and a textile outer layer separated at least in the region of the cups by at least one layer of intermediate material giving a thickness, the textile layers being rendered secured to each other at least in the region of the edges of the bra, characterized in that a first silicone coating is provided between the two layers of textile so as to make them integral at least in the area of the edges, and the intermediate layer is coated with a second silicone coating. According to an implementation mode adapted to the first embodiment, the method comprises the steps of:
Placement de la couche intérieure de textile,Placement of the inner layer of textile,
Enduction de la couche intérieure de textile,Coating of the inner layer of textile,
Placement de la couche intermédiaire, Enduction de la couche intermédiaire,Placement of the intermediate layer, Coating of the intermediate layer,
Placement de la couche extérieure de textile.Placement of the textile outer layer.
Selon un autre mode de mise en oeuvre du premier mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend les étapes de :According to another embodiment of the first embodiment, the method comprises the steps of:
Placement d'une couche intérieure de textile, Enduction de la couche intérieure de textile,Placement of an inner layer of textile, Coating of the inner layer of textile,
Placement indépendant de la couche extérieure de textile,Independent placement of the outer layer of textile,
Enduction de la couche extérieure de textile,Coating of the outer layer of textile,
Placement de la couche intermédiaire sur la couche extérieure enduite de textile, Placement de l'ensemble constitué par la couche extérieure enduite et munie de la couche intermédiaire sur la couche intérieure enduite.Placement of the intermediate layer on the textile-coated outer layer, Placement of the assembly consisting of the outer layer coated and provided with the intermediate layer on the inner layer coated.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation adapté à la mise en œuvre du second mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend les étapes de :According to another embodiment adapted to the implementation of the second embodiment, the method comprises the steps of:
Placement d'une couche intérieure de textile comportant d'un seul tenant la couche intermédiaire,Placing an inner layer of textile comprising in one piece the intermediate layer,
Enduction limitée,Limited coating,
Réticulation de l'enduction limitée,Cross-linking of the limited coating,
Enduction en aplat,Flat coating,
Placement de la couche extérieure de textile. De manière préférée, au moins l'une des enductions se fait par sérigraphie.Placement of the textile outer layer. Preferably, at least one of the coatings is by screen printing.
Avantageusement, au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée se fait en deux étapes consistant à d'abord réaliser une enduction mince qu'on réticule partiellement suivie de l' enduction du reste de l'épaisseur.Advantageously, at least one screen printing step is in two steps consisting of firstly producing a thin coating which is partially reticulated followed by coating of the remainder of the thickness.
Avantageusement, au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée se fait dans un cadre de sérigraphie sur une matière textile dont la face non sérigraphiée est recouverte d'un film étanche à l'air, par exemple une feuille de papier thermocollée au textile. Avantageusement, au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée se fait dans un cadre de sérigraphie comprenant une toile fine et un masque en tôle mince destiné à permettre la sérigraphie d'une épaisseur relativement grande de silicone.Advantageously, at least one screen printing step is made in a screen-printing frame on a textile material whose non-screened face is covered with an airtight film, for example a sheet of paper thermo-bonded to the textile. Advantageously, at least one serigraphy coating step is in a screen printing frame comprising a thin fabric and a thin sheet metal mask to allow the screen printing of a relatively large thickness of silicone.
Le procédé de l'invention comprend le thermoformage des bonnets Avantageusement, il comprend en même temps que le thermoformage des bonnets la réticulation totale du soutien-gorge.The method of the invention comprises the thermoforming of the cups Advantageously, it comprises at the same time that the thermoforming cups the total crosslinking of the bra.
Le procédé de l'invention peut comprendre le placement d'armatures, et notamment le placement d'armatures en silicone.The method of the invention may include the placement of reinforcements, and in particular the placement of silicone reinforcements.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront de la description suivante d'un exemple de réalisation. Il sera fait référence aux dessins annexés sur lesquels :Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge from the following description of an exemplary embodiment. Reference will be made to the accompanying drawings in which:
La figure 1 est une vue en perspective d'une première épaisseur de textile constituant une première couche du soutien-gorge de l'invention, selon un premier mode de réalisation. La figure 2 est une vue en perspective de la première épaisseur de textile de la figure 1 sur laquelle est disposée une couche de silicone.Figure 1 is a perspective view of a first textile thickness constituting a first layer of the bra of the invention, according to a first embodiment. Figure 2 is a perspective view of the first fabric thickness of Figure 1 on which a silicone layer is disposed.
La figure 3 est une vue en perspective d'une seconde épaisseur de textile constituant une seconde couche du soutien-gorge de l'invention, sur laquelle a été déposée une couche de silicone. La figure 4 est une vue en perspective du produit de la figure 3, sur lequel a été déposé une couche de renfort épais et des armatures.Figure 3 is a perspective view of a second fabric thickness constituting a second layer of the bra of the invention, on which a layer of silicone has been deposited. Figure 4 is a perspective view of the product of Figure 3, on which was deposited a thick reinforcing layer and reinforcements.
La figure 5 est une vue en coupe schématique éclatée des diverses couches du complexe constituant le soutien-gorge de l'invention.Figure 5 is an exploded schematic sectional view of the various layers of the complex constituting the bra of the invention.
La figure 6 est une vue de face d'un soutien-gorge fini conforme à l'invention. La figure 7 est une vue en perspective d'une première épaisseur de textile constituant une première couche du soutien-gorge de l'invention, selon un second mode de réalisation.Figure 6 is a front view of a bra finished according to the invention. Figure 7 is a perspective view of a first thickness of textile constituting a first layer of the bra of the invention, according to a second embodiment.
La figure 8 est une vue en perspective de la première épaisseur de textile de la figure 7 sur laquelle est déposée une couche de silicone au niveau de la basque du futur soutien-gorge.Figure 8 is a perspective view of the first textile thickness of Figure 7 on which is deposited a silicone layer at the base of the future bra.
La figure 9 est une en perspective de l'ensemble de la figure 8 sur lequel est déposée une couche de silicone en aplat sur toute la surface du futur soutien-gorge. La figure 10 est une vue ne perspective de l'ensemble de la figure 9 sur lequel est posé un séparateur, avant de poser la seconde couche textile.Figure 9 is a perspective view of the assembly of Figure 8 on which is deposited a silicone layer flat on the entire surface of the future bra. Figure 10 is a perspective view of the assembly of Figure 9 on which is placed a separator, before laying the second textile layer.
La figure 11 est une vue en coupe schématique éclatée des diverses couches du complexe constituant le soutien-gorge de l'invention selon le second mode de réalisation. Le soutien-gorge de l'invention est réalisé sous forme d'un complexe monopièce multicouche sans couture, auquel seront ajoutés les épaulettes et les pièces d'assemblage.Figure 11 is an exploded schematic sectional view of the various layers of the complex constituting the bra of the invention according to the second embodiment. The bra of the invention is made in the form of a seamless one-piece multi-layer complex, to which will be added the shoulder pads and the assembly parts.
Le complexe associe des matières textiles d'habillage, des matières intermédiaires donnant de l'épaisseur et du renfort, destinées à donner le maintien et l'effet rehausseur dans les bonnets, et du silicone destiné à assurer les liaisons entre couches, l'élasticité du complexe et la nervosité du dos, la tenue et le maintien des bonnets thermoformés, ainsi que la possibilité de couper les bords de l'article de façon nette. Les matières de renfort peuvent être des mousses ou des textiles dits 3D, au d'autres matériaux souples pouvant donner du volume et être thermoformés.The complex combines textile dressing materials, intermediate materials giving the thickness and reinforcement, intended to give the maintenance and enhancement effect in the cups, and silicone intended to ensure the connections between layers, the elasticity complex and nervousness of the back, holding and maintaining thermoformed cups, as well as the ability to cut the edges of the article sharply. The reinforcing materials may be foams or so-called 3D textiles, other flexible materials that can give volume and be thermoformed.
La fabrication d'un premier mode de réalisation du soutien-gorge va être expliquée en se reportant aux figures 1 à 5. On part d'une part d'une couche de matière textile d'habillage 20 (figures 1 et 2) et d'autre part d'une couche de matière textile d'habillage 30 (figures 3 et 4). Sur l'épaisseur de textile 20, on vient déposer une couche de siliconeThe manufacture of a first embodiment of the bra will be explained with reference to FIGS. 1 to 5. It starts on the one hand with a layer of textile covering material 20 (FIGS. 1 and 2) and FIG. on the other hand a layer of textile covering material 30 (Figures 3 and 4). On the thickness of textile 20, it comes to deposit a layer of silicone
21 qui peut être une couche pleine sur toute la surface destinée à former le complexe ou bien, comme représenté sur la figure 2, être simplement présente sur le contour du futur article, avec débordement permettant la coupe ultérieure. La couche de silicone est avantageusement déposée par sérigraphie au moyen d'un cadre de sérigraphie approprié.21 which can be a solid layer over the entire surface intended to form the complex or, as shown in Figure 2, simply be present on the contour of the future article, with overflow allowing subsequent cutting. The silicone layer is advantageously deposited by screen printing by means of a suitable screen printing frame.
Sur l'épaisseur de textile 30, on vient indépendamment déposer par sérigraphie une couche de silicone 31 sur tout ou partie des deux emplacements sensiblement triangulaires destinés à recevoir les renforts et à former les bonnets ou les bas de bonnet.On the textile thickness 30, it is independently deposited by screen printing a silicone layer 31 on all or part of the two substantially triangular locations for receiving the reinforcements and to form the cups or socks.
Sur ces couches de silicone 31, on vient placer les couches de renfort 32 sensiblement triangulaires. On peut aussi, le cas échéant, disposer des armatures souples 32 courbes destinées à prendre place sous la poitrine. Ces armatures peuvent être constituées de diverses matières et peuvent être fixées provisoirement au renfort 31 par un point de colle ou des points d'arrêt au fil de couture, si les armatures sont du côté découvert de la couche de renfort, ou simplement prises en sandwich entre le silicone 31 et la couche de renfort 32. On retourne l'ensemble de la figure 4, composé du renfort de bonnet et de la matière d'habillage, pour venir le placer sur l'ensemble de la figure 2, composé de la partie intérieure de l'article.On these silicone layers 31, it comes to place the reinforcing layers 32 substantially triangular. It is also possible, if necessary, to have the flexible armatures 32 curves intended to take place under the chest. These reinforcements may be made of various materials and may be temporarily fixed to the reinforcement 31 by a glue point or stitches at the sewing thread, if the reinforcements are on the open side of the reinforcing layer, or simply sandwiched between the silicone 31 and the reinforcing layer 32. The assembly of FIG. 4, composed of the bonnet reinforcement and the covering material, is returned to fit it over the assembly of FIG. 2, composed of the inner part of the article.
On obtient alors le complexe multicouche représenté figure 5, composé donc de l'épaisseur de textile d'habillage intérieur 20, du silicone 21, de la matière de renfort 32, des armatures 33, du silicone 31 et de l'épaisseur de textile d'habillage extérieur 30.The multilayer complex represented in FIG. 5 is thus obtained, thus composed of the thickness of interior trim fabric 20, silicone 21, reinforcing material 32, reinforcements 33, silicone 31 and the thickness of textile. outside covering 30.
Ce complexe multicouche obtenu, l'étape suivante consiste dans le thermoformage sur un moule traitant avantageusement les deux bonnets simultanément, à environ 2000C pendant environ 60s. Ce thermoformage permet de déformer et de fixer les textiles à la forme galbée du moule. Il permet de réticuler en même temps le silicone qui gardera la forme du moule de façon permanente, ce qui représente un aspect innovant majeur de la présente invention.This multilayer complex obtained, the next step is the thermoforming on a mold advantageously treating the two cups simultaneously, at about 200 0 C for about 60s. This thermoforming makes it possible to deform and fix the textiles to the curved shape of the mold. It makes it possible to crosslink at the same time the silicone which will keep the shape of the mold permanently, which represents a major innovative aspect of the present invention.
La machine de thermoformage peut comporter autour des moules des bonnets une zone de chauffage plane, fixe ou mobile par rapport aux moules de bonnets proprement dits, suffisante pour permettre simultanément la réticulation du silicone compris dans les zones autres que les bonnets. En alternative, on peut réticuler dans une première étape les bonnets lors du thermoformage puis passer l'ensemble du produit dans un tunnel de chauffe entre environ 15O0C et 2000C pendant une à deux minutes pour réticuler le silicone qui ne l'a pas encore été, notamment les dos.The thermoforming machine may comprise around cups cups a flat heating zone, fixed or movable relative to cups of cups themselves, sufficient to simultaneously allow crosslinking of the silicone included in the areas other than the cups. Alternatively, in a first step, the cups may be cross-linked during thermoforming and then the entire product may be passed through a heating tunnel. between about 15O 0 C and 200 0 C for one to two minutes to crosslink the silicone that has not yet been, including the back.
Le complexe multicouche thermoformé est ensuite découpé sur son pourtour pour lui donner un aspect fini à ses dimensions définitives. Cette découpe peut se faire par ultrasons, notamment si l'on veut lier entre elles les deux couches de matières d'habillage (si elles sont réalisées pour partie en matière thermofusible). Les ultrasons ne sont toutefois pas nécessaires, puisque le silicone lie déjà suffisamment les couches entre elles et une coupe mécanique est suffisante. II reste ensuite simplement à fixer les agrafages et les connecteurs d'épaulettes par une technique connue, notamment par ultrasons à l'aide de connecteurs à griffes ou picots traversants. On obtient alors l'article 10 de la figure 6, comportant des bonnets formés 11, entourés à leur partie inférieure et latérale externe d'une vraie ou fausse armature 12 (facultative). Les connecteurs 13 fixent les épaulettes 14 et des dispositifs d'agrafage complémentaires 15 sont fixés à l'extrémité des dos 16.The multilayer thermoformed complex is then cut on its periphery to give it a finished look to its final dimensions. This cutting can be done by ultrasound, especially if one wants to bind together the two layers of dressing materials (if they are partly made of hot melt material). Ultrasound is not necessary, however, since the silicone already binds the layers sufficiently between them and a mechanical cut is sufficient. It then simply to fix the stapling and shoulder connectors by a known technique, including ultrasound using claw connectors or through pins. The article 10 of FIG. 6 is then obtained, with cups 11 formed, surrounded at their lower and lateral external part by a true or false armature 12 (optional). The connectors 13 fix the shoulder pads 14 and complementary stapling devices 15 are attached to the end of the backs 16.
On va maintenant décrire un second mode de réalisation permettant de fabriquer un soutien-gorge analogue à celui de la figure 6, en liaison avec les figures 7 à 11. Dans ce mode de réalisation, la première épaisseur de textile est constitué d'une couche unitaire 100 d'un tissu épais (« spacer fabric ») constitué de deux faces de tricot 120 et 122 reliée entre elles par tricotage de manière à former simultanément la première couche textile intérieure 120 et la couche intermédiaire 132. Ces tissus épais, dits aussi tricots tridimensionnels ou tricots 3D, qui ont notamment l'avantage de n'être pas sujets au délaminage dans la mesure où ils sont constitués d'un seul tricotage, sont connus par exemple par les documents US 6 037 035, US 6 779 369 ou WO20044046439. Il peut aussi s'agir de deux toiles réunies par tricotage, par exemple au moyen d'un monofilament. A titre d'exemple, le poids de cette couche peut être de l'ordre de 300 à 500 g/m2.We will now describe a second embodiment for manufacturing a bra analogous to that of Figure 6, in connection with Figures 7 to 11. In this embodiment, the first layer of textile consists of a layer unitary 100 of a thick fabric ("spacer fabric") consisting of two knitted faces 120 and 122 interconnected by knitting so as to simultaneously form the first inner textile layer 120 and the intermediate layer 132. These thick fabrics, also called three-dimensional knits or 3D knits, which have the particular advantage of not being subject to delamination inasmuch as they consist of a single knitting, are known for example from documents US Pat. No. 6,037,035, US Pat. No. 6,779,369 or WO20044046439. It may also be two webs joined by knitting, for example by means of a monofilament. For example, the weight of this layer may be of the order of 300 to 500 g / m 2 .
On vient réaliser sur cette couche 100 de tricot 3D une enduction 131 (cf. figure 8) de silicone limitée à la zone de basque, c'est-à-dire à la partie destinée à venir sous les bonnets, en entourant sensiblement la moitié inférieure des bonnets. Cette enduction 131, destinée à avoir une certaine épaisseur, par exemple 1,3 mm, pour jouer activement son rôle de renforcement et de maintien, se réalise avantageusement en deux couches successives 131 ' (couche fine, de par exemple 0,15 mm) et 131 ", comme représenté figure 11, pour les raisons qui seront expliquées plus loin. Cette enduction limitée 131 est réticulée, au moins partiellement pour la fixer, par exemple aux infra-rouges, et de préférence en deux fois comme on le verra plus loin.It is realized on this layer 100 of 3D knit a coating 131 (see Figure 8) of silicone limited to the Basque zone, that is to say to the part intended to come under the cups, substantially surrounding half lower cups. This coating 131, intended to have a certain thickness, for example 1.3 mm, to play actively its role of reinforcement and maintenance, is advantageously carried out in two successive layers 131 '(thin layer, for example 0.15 mm) and 131 ", as shown in FIG 11, for the reasons that will be explained later This limited coating 131 is crosslinked at least partially to fix it, for example at infra-red, and preferably twice, as will be seen later.
On vient ensuite réaliser sur cet ensemble une enduction de silicone 121 (cf. figure 9), en aplat relativement mince, par exemple 0,2 mm, s 'étendant sur toute la zone du futur soutien-gorge. On place ensuite (cf. figure 10) un séparateur 101 entre les zones de bonnet 111, réalisé en maille bloquée sensiblement inextensible.It is then possible to produce on this assembly a silicone coating 121 (see FIG. 9), in a relatively thin flat surface, for example 0.2 mm, extending over the entire area of the future bra. A separator 101 is then placed (see FIG. 10) between the cup zones 111, made of substantially inextensible locked mesh.
Puis on vient couvrir l'ensemble par la matière d'habillage de couche extérieure textile 130. Celle-ci peut avoir fait préalablement l'objet d'un revêtement total ou partiel de silicone 102, décoratif et/ou structurel, réticulé indépendamment.Then the entire covering is covered by the textile outer layer covering material 130. This may have previously been the subject of a total or partial coating of silicone 102, decorative and / or structural, independently crosslinked.
L'ensemble ainsi obtenu, qui correspond à la structure en sandwich montré sur la figure 11, est alors thermoformé pour former les bonnets à leur forme concave (à l'intérieur), avantageusement dans une machine unique capable de réticuler toute la surface du soutien-gorge. Le soutien-gorge est ensuite terminé comme dans le premier mode de réalisation par la pose des attaches et des bretelles.The assembly thus obtained, which corresponds to the sandwich structure shown in FIG. 11, is then thermoformed to form the cups in their concave shape (inside), advantageously in a single machine capable of cross-linking the entire surface of the support -throat. The bra is then completed as in the first embodiment by the installation of the fasteners and straps.
Dans tous les modes de réalisation, la matière d'habillage (quand elle n'est pas directement constituée par une face d'un tricot 3D) est avantageusement un tricot élastique, par exemple une charmeuse de composition environ 80% polyamide microfibre et 20% élasthanne 44 dtex, de 180 à 200 g/m2. Son élasticité est d'au moins 100% dans le sens lisière et d'au moins 50% dans le sens trame. Cette matière peut recevoir un apprêt, à condition qu'il ne bloque pas la fixation de la couche de silicone. Cet apprêt peut notamment être réalisé par une émulsion de silicone incorporant divers adjuvants.In all embodiments, the covering material (when it is not directly constituted by a face of a 3D knit) is advantageously an elastic knit, for example a charmeuse with a composition of about 80% microfiber polyamide and 20% elastane 44 dtex, from 180 to 200 g / m 2 . Its elasticity is at least 100% in the edge direction and at least 50% in the weft direction. This material can receive a primer, provided that it does not block the attachment of the silicone layer. This primer can in particular be made by a silicone emulsion incorporating various adjuvants.
La ou les matières utilisées pour la ou les couches intermédiaires et de renfort est par exemple une mousse souple ou, comme on l'a déjà décrit, une matière tridimensionnelle tricotée sur des métiers double fonture, réalisée en un ou plusieurs fils. Ces matières ont la caractéristique d'avoir de l'épaisseur (entre 2 et 3 mm). Elles peuvent être par exemple en polyamide, en élasthanne, ou en polyester. Elles sont dans tous les cas thermoformables.The material or materials used for the intermediate layer or reinforcement is for example a flexible foam or, as already described, a three-dimensional material knitted on double needle looms, made of one or more son. These materials have the characteristic of having thickness (between 2 and 3 mm). They can be for example in polyamide, elastane, or polyester. They are in all cases thermoformable.
Dans la mesure où l'ensemble du complexe multicouche selon l'invention assure convenablement le maintien, l'armature en matériau souple n'est pas nécessaire. Elle peut consister le cas échéant en un simple cordon de silicone destiné par son épaisseur à donner l'illusion d'une armature.Insofar as the assembly of the multilayer complex according to the invention suitably ensures the maintenance, the reinforcement of flexible material is not necessary. It may consist if necessary in a simple silicone bead intended for its thickness to give the illusion of a frame.
Le silicone utilisé pour les couches de liaison est un élastomère de la famille des LSR (liquid silicone rubber), notamment bicomposant. Il s'agit avantageusement de polydiméthylsiloxane réticulant à chaud par addition à catalyse au platine. Sa dureté est de 30 shore, son élongation à la rupture est de 600%, sa viscosité est de 300.000 mPa.s.The silicone used for the bonding layers is an elastomer of the LSR family (liquid silicone rubber), in particular two-component. It is advantageously hot cross-linking polydimethylsiloxane by platinum-catalyzed addition. Its hardness is 30 shore, its elongation at break is 600%, its viscosity is 300,000 mPa.s.
Le silicone est déposé par sérigraphie à l'aide de cadres appropriés, du type de ceux qui sont utilisés pour l'impression classique, et réalisés dans des toiles de grosseur inférieure à 25 mesh, par exemple une toile 12-160 composée de 12 fils au cm ayant chacun un diamètre de 160 μm. Ces toiles dont enduites de résine par insolation pour créer un pochoir.The silicone is deposited by screen printing using appropriate frames, of the type used for conventional printing, and made of webs smaller than 25 mesh, for example a 12-160 fabric composed of 12 threads. to cm each having a diameter of 160 microns. These paintings including resin coated by insolation to create a stencil.
Si nécessaire, on colle un film capillaire sur la résine de façon à augmenter l'épaisseur du dépôt de silicone qu'on peut réaliser et ainsi créer l'élasticité voulue sur le produit. On peut aussi coller sur la toile du châssis de sérigraphie une tôle, très mince (par exemple 200 à 600 μm) en inox, préalablement découpée au gabarit à imprimer. La toile du châssis peut elle- même être découpée au niveau de la découpe de la tôle, la tôle découpée (et soutenue en dehors de la découpe par la toile) servant de pochoir. On utilise une racle et avantageusement une contre-racle. A titre d'exemple, la racle peut être de caoutchouc, de section carrée, de 75 shore de dureté : elle est destinée à réaliser l'impression sérigraphique proprement dite. La contre-racle peut être également en caoutchouc, de section ronde, de 65 shore de dureté, et est destinée à égaliser le dépôt de silicone sur le cadre de sérigraphie. La contre-racle peut aussi être métallique ou en plastique dur.If necessary, a capillary film is glued on the resin so as to increase the thickness of the silicone deposit that can be achieved and thus create the desired elasticity on the product. It is also possible to glue on the canvas of the silkscreen frame a sheet, very thin (for example 200 to 600 μm) in stainless steel, previously cut to the template to be printed. The canvas of the frame can itself be cut at the level of the cut of the sheet, the sheet cut (and supported outside the cut by the fabric) serving as a stencil. A squeegee is used and advantageously a counter-squeegee. For example, the squeegee may be of rubber, of square section, of 75 shore hardness: it is intended to perform the actual screen printing. The against-squeegee can also be rubber, round section, 65 shore hardness, and is intended to equalize the deposition of silicone on the screen printing frame. The counter-squeegee can also be metal or hard plastic.
L'épaisseur de silicone pour l'enduction d'aplat est très mince, typiquement inférieure à 0,5 mm et de préférence comprise entre 0,1 mm et 0,3 mm. Naturellement, l'épaisseur conditionne les caractéristiques de nervosité du complexe final. Pour atteindre les objectifs souhaités, il est possible de réaliser une enduction de silicone de nature différente ou d'épaisseur différente selon les régions, notamment dans des régions limitées comme la région de la basque, région qui demande une plus grande nervosité et donc une plus grand épaisseur de silicone (là, l'épaisseur peut par exemple atteindre de 1 mm à 1,5 mm) et/ou une dureté plus grande (par exemple de l'ordre de 50 shore, avec une élongation de 470% et une viscosité de 900 000 mPa.s).The silicone thickness for the solid coating is very thin, typically less than 0.5 mm and preferably between 0.1 mm and 0.3 mm. Naturally, thickness conditions the nervousness characteristics of the final complex. To achieve the desired goals, it is It is possible to produce a silicone coating of different types or different thickness depending on the region, especially in limited regions such as the region of the Basque, a region which requires greater nervousness and therefore a greater thickness of silicone (there, thickness can for example reach from 1 mm to 1.5 mm) and / or a greater hardness (for example of the order of 50 shore, with an elongation of 470% and a viscosity of 900 000 mPa.s).
Selon une caractéristique très avantageuse avec les épaisseurs plus grandes de dépôt, on dépose en deux étapes : d'abord une fine couche avec une réticulation intermédiaire de la première couche déposée, avant de déposer la seconde couche faisant le reste de l'épaisseur. On a constaté que cette méthode permet d'éliminer considérablement les problèmes de bulles d'air qui interviennent lorsque l'épaisseur augmente et donnent une apparence blanchâtre au produit. La réticulation de la couche fine est de préférence incomplète de manière à permettre une bonne adhésion de la seconde couche. Il est également avantageux de bloquer le flux d'air au travers de la couche textile faisant l'objet de l'enduction en prévoyant de l'autre côté une feuille de papier thermocollé.According to a very advantageous characteristic with the greater thicknesses of deposition, two steps are deposited: first a thin layer with an intermediate crosslinking of the first deposited layer, before depositing the second layer making the rest of the thickness. It has been found that this method makes it possible to eliminate considerably the problems of air bubbles which occur when the thickness increases and give a whitish appearance to the product. The crosslinking of the thin layer is preferably incomplete so as to allow good adhesion of the second layer. It is also advantageous to block the flow of air through the textile layer being coated by providing on the other side a sheet of heat-sealed paper.
Les tunnels de chauffe peuvent être des fours traditionnels à l'air chauffé par résistance électrique ; ce qui permet une réticulation progressive avec une chaleur diffuse. On peut aussi utiliser la technique de flash infrar rouge, éventuellement associée à des masques métalliques découpés disposés entre les lampes infra-rouges et la matière de manière à limiter l'irradiation directe à la zone à réticuler. II est possible de revêtir la couche d'habillage externe 30, 130 d'une couche extérieure supplémentaire en silicone, soit continue soit à motifs. Le silicone de cette couche peut être brillant, mat, transparent, coloré, opaque, pailleté. Sa fonction peut être essentiellement décorative ou également conférer dans certaines régions un maintien spécifique. Pour la fabrication, la matière d'habillage revêtue de la couche supplémentaire de silicone est passée une première fois en tunnel de chauffe pour réticuler une première fois le silicone qui sera réticulé une seconde fois lors du thermoformage.The heating tunnels can be traditional ovens heated by electric resistance; which allows progressive crosslinking with diffuse heat. The technique of flash infra red r, optionally combined with metal masks cut disposed between the infrared lamp and the material to limit direct radiation may also be used in the area to be crosslinked. It is possible to coat the outer covering layer 30, 130 with an additional silicone outer layer, either continuous or patterned. The silicone of this layer can be glossy, matte, transparent, colored, opaque, glittery. Its function can be essentially decorative or also confer in certain regions a specific maintenance. For manufacture, the covering material coated with the additional silicone layer is passed a first time in a heating tunnel to crosslink a first time the silicone which will be crosslinked a second time during thermoforming.
Il est également possible de revêtir la couche d'habillage interne 20, 120 d'une couche intérieure supplémentaire en silicone, soit continue soit à motifs. Le silicone de cette couche est destiné à être en contact avec la peau, par exemple pour faire adhérer le produit au corps. It is also possible to coat the inner lining layer 20, 120 with an additional inner layer of silicone, either continuous or reasons. The silicone of this layer is intended to be in contact with the skin, for example to adhere the product to the body.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Elément de soutien-gorge composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche formant une zone de bonnet moulé (11, 111) et une zone plane autour du bonnet au moins au-dessous de celui-ci pour former notamment une basque, le complexe monopièce multicouche comprenant une couche intérieure de textile (20, 120) et une couche extérieure de textile (30, 130) séparée au moins dans la zone du bonnet par au moins une couche de matière intermédiaire (32, 132) donnant une épaisseur, les couches textiles étant rendues solidaires l'une de l'autre au moins dans une zone de bord de l'élément, caractérisé en ce que les deux couches de textile (20, 120 ; 30, 130) sont rendues solidaires au moins dans la zone de bord par une première enduction de silicone (21, 121), et en ce qu'il est prévu sur la couche intermédiaire (32, 132) une seconde enduction de silicone (31, 131).1. Bra element composed of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a molded bonnet area (11, 111) and a flat area around the bonnet at least below it to form in particular a basque, the one-piece complex multilayer comprising an inner layer of textile (20, 120) and an outer layer of textile (30, 130) separated at least in the region of the cup by at least one layer of intermediate material (32, 132) giving a thickness, the layers being secured to each other at least in an edge region of the element, characterized in that the two textile layers (20, 120, 30, 130) are secured together at least in the edge by a first silicone coating (21, 121), and that there is provided on the intermediate layer (32, 132) a second silicone coating (31, 131).
2. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le complexe multicouche comprend sur la couche intérieure de textile (20) la première enduction de silicone (21), puis la couche intermédiaire (32), puis la seconde enduction de silicone (31), puis la couche extérieure de textile (30).2. bra element according to claim 1, characterized in that the multilayer complex comprises on the inner textile layer (20) the first silicone coating (21), then the intermediate layer (32), then the second coating of silicone (31), then the outer layer of textile (30).
3. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la première enduction de silicone (21) s'étend seulement dans la zone de bord de l'élément.3. bra element according to claim 2, characterized in that the first silicone coating (21) extends only in the edge region of the element.
4. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la première enduction de silicone (21) s'étend sur sensiblement l'intégralité de l'élément. 4. bra element according to claim 2, characterized in that the first silicone coating (21) extends over substantially the entirety of the element.
5. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 4, caractérisé en ce que la seconde enduction de silicone (31) s'étend seulement sur les parties de la zone de bonnet recevant la couche de matière intermédiaireBrassiere element according to one of Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the second silicone coating (31) extends only on the parts of the cup area receiving the intermediate material layer.
(32).(32).
6. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une partie d'une des couches textiles (120) constitue avec la couche de matière intermédiaire (132) un tissu épais d'espacement d'un seul tenant (100).6. Bra element according to claim 1, characterized in that at least a portion of one of the textile layers (120) constitutes with the intermediate material layer (132) a thick spacer fabric of a single holding (100).
7. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que toute la surface du complexe multicouche comprend ce tissu épais d'espacement d'un seul tenant (100).7. Bra element according to claim 6, characterized in that the entire surface of the multilayer complex comprises this thick spacer fabric in one piece (100).
8. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce que la seconde enduction (131) est réalisée seulement dans la basque.8. bra element according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the second coating (131) is made only in the basque.
9. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisé en ce que la seconde enduction (131) est réalisée sous forme relativement épaisse, entre 1 et 2 mm.9. Bra element according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the second coating (131) is formed in relatively thick form, between 1 and 2 mm.
10. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 9, caractérisé en ce que la première enduction (121) s'étend sur l'ensemble de l'élément.10. Bra element according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the first coating (121) extends over the entire element.
11. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 10, caractérisé en ce que la première enduction (121) est réalisée sous forme relativement mince, entre 0,05 mm et 0,5 mm. 11. bra element according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the first coating (121) is made in relatively thin form, between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm.
12. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 11, caractérisé en ce que le complexe multicouche comprend le tissu épais d'espacement (100), la seconde enduction de silicone (131) dans la zone de basque, la première enduction de silicone (121) et la seconde couche textile (130).Bra element according to any one of claims 6 to 11, characterized in that the multilayer complex comprises the thick spacer fabric (100), the second silicone coating (131) in the basque area, the first silicone coating (121) and the second textile layer (130).
13. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins l'une des couches textiles (20, 30 ; 130), est réalisée en un tricot dont la maille est relativement extensible.Bra element according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that at least one of the textile layers (20, 30; 130) is made of a knit fabric whose mesh is relatively extensible. .
14. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisé en ce que le silicone est un silicone de la famille des silicones liquides réticulables à chaud.14. bra element according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the silicone is a silicone of the family of liquid silicones heat-crosslinkable.
15. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une couche intermédiaire (32) est constituée par une mousse de matière synthétique.15. bra element according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that at least one intermediate layer (32) is constituted by a foam of synthetic material.
16. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 15, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une couche intermédiaire (132) est constituée par un tricot tridimensionnel (100).16. Bra element according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that at least one intermediate layer (132) is constituted by a three-dimensional knit (100).
17. Elément de soutien-gorge selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 16, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend de manière unitaire deux zones de bonnets moulés.17. Bra element according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it comprises unitarily two molded cup areas.
18. Elément de soutien-gorge selon la revendication 17, caractérisé en ce que le complexe multicouche comprend entre les deux zones de bonnet (111) un séparateur (101) réalisé dans une matière peu extensible, par exemple en maille bloquée.18. bra element according to claim 17, characterized in that the multilayer complex comprises between the two cup regions (111) a separator (101) made in a material that is not very extensible, for example in locked mesh.
19. Procédé de fabrication d'un élément de soutien-gorge composé d'un complexe monopièce multicouche formant une zone de bonnets moulés et une zone plane autour du bonnet au moins au-dessous de celui-ci pour former notamment la basque, le complexe monopièce multicouche comprenant une couche intérieure de textile (20, 120) et une couche extérieure de textile (30, 130) séparée au moins dans la zone du bonnet par au moins une couche de matière intermédiaire (32, 132) donnant une épaisseur, les couches textiles étant rendues solidaires l'une de l'autre au moins dans une zone du bord de l'élément, caractérisé en ce qu'on dispose une première enduction (21, 121) de silicone entre les deux couches de textile de manière à les rendre solidaires au moins dans la zone de bord, et on dispose sur la couche intermédiaire (32, 132) une seconde enduction de silicone (31, 131).19. A method of manufacturing a bra element composed of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a molded cup area and a flat area around the cap at least below it to form in particular the Basque, the complex multilayered one-piece comprising an inner layer of textile (20, 120) and an outer layer of textile (30, 130) separated at least in the region of the cup by at least one layer of intermediate material (32, 132) giving a thickness, the textile layers being made integral with each other at least in an area of the edge of the element, characterized in that a first coating (21, 121) of silicone is provided between the two layers of textile so as to making them integral at least in the edge zone, and is provided on the intermediate layer (32, 132) a second silicone coating (31, 131).
20. Procédé selon la revendication 19, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les. étapes de :20. The method of claim 19, characterized in that it comprises the. steps of:
Placement de la couche intérieure de textile (20), Enduction (21) de la couche intérieure de textile (20), Placement de la couche intermédiaire (32), Enduction de la couche intermédiaire (32),Placing the inner textile layer (20), coating (21) of the inner textile layer (20), placing the intermediate layer (32), coating the intermediate layer (32),
Placement de la couche extérieure de textile (30).Placement of the textile outer layer (30).
21. Procédé selon la revendication 19, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes de : Placement d'une couche intérieure de textile (20),21. The method of claim 19, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: Placement of an inner layer of textile (20),
Enduction (21) de la couche intérieure de textile (20), Placement indépendant de la couche extérieure de textile (30), Enduction (31) de la couche extérieure de textile (32), Placement de la couche intermédiaire sur la couche extérieure enduite de textile(32) Placement de l'ensemble (30, 31, 32) constitué par la couche extérieure enduite et munie de la couche intermédiaire sur la couche intérieure enduite (20, 21).Coating (21) of the inner textile layer (20), Independent placement of the outer textile layer (30), Coating (31) of the outer textile layer (32), Placement of the intermediate layer on the outer layer coated textile (32) Placing the assembly (30, 31, 32) constituted by the outer layer coated and provided with the intermediate layer on the coated inner layer (20, 21).
22. Procédé selon la revendication 19, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes de :22. The method of claim 19, characterized in that it comprises the steps of:
Placement d'une couche intérieure de textile (120) comportant d'un seul tenant la couche intermédiaire (132), Enduction limitée (131), Réticulation de l'enduction limitée,Placing an inner textile layer (120) integrally comprising the intermediate layer (132), Limited Coating (131), Limited Coating Reticulation,
Enduction en aplat (121), Placement de la couche extérieure de textile (130).Flat coating (121), Placement of the textile outer layer (130).
23. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 19 à 22, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins l'une des enductions (21, 31,23. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that at least one of the coatings (21, 31,
121, 131) se fait par sérigraphie.121, 131) is by screen printing.
24. Procédé selon la revendication 23, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée (131) se fait en deux étapes consistant à d'abord réaliser une enduction mince24. The method of claim 23, characterized in that at least one screen-printed coating step (131) is in two steps consisting of firstly performing a thin coating.
(131 ') qu'on réticule partiellement suivie de l'enduction du reste de l'épaisseur (131 ").(131 ') partially cross-linked followed by coating the remainder of the thickness (131 ").
25. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 22 ou 23, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée (21, 31, 121, 131) se fait dans un cadre de sérigraphie sur une matière textile dont la face non sérigraphiée est recouverte d'un film étanche à l'air.25. A method according to any one of claims 22 or 23, characterized in that at least one screen printing step (21, 31, 121, 131) is in a screen printing frame on a textile material whose face uns screened is covered with an airtight film.
26. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 22 à 25, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une étape d'enduction sérigraphiée (21, 31, 121, 131) se fait dans un cadre de sérigraphie comprenant une toile fine et un masque en tôle destiné à permettre la sérigraphie d'une épaisseur relativement grande de silicone. 26. A method according to any one of claims 22 to 25, characterized in that at least one screen printing step (21, 31, 121, 131) is in a screen printing frame comprising a thin cloth and a mask in sheet metal intended to allow the screen printing of a relatively large thickness of silicone.
27. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 19 à 26, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend le thermoformage des bonnets.27. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 26, characterized in that it comprises thermoforming cups.
28. Procédé selon la revendication 27, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en même temps que le thermoformage des bonnets la réticulation totale du soutien-gorge.28. The method of claim 27, characterized in that it comprises at the same time that the thermoforming cups the total crosslinking of the bra.
29. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 19 à 28, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend le placement d'armatures (33).29. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 28, characterized in that it comprises the placement of reinforcements (33).
30. Procédé selon la revendication 29, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend le placement d'armatures en silicone. 30. The method of claim 29, characterized in that it comprises the placement of silicone frames.
PCT/FR2006/002106 2005-09-16 2006-09-14 Multilayer single-piece brassiere component and method for making same WO2007031650A1 (en)

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ES06808131.4T ES2488400T3 (en) 2005-09-16 2006-09-14 Multilayer single piece bra component and its manufacturing process
EP06808131.4A EP1928273B1 (en) 2005-09-16 2006-09-14 Multilayer single-piece brassiere component and method for making same
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WO2015173524A1 (en) * 2014-05-14 2015-11-19 Dbapparel Operations Undergarment receiving a thin intermediate layer of adhesive bonding between two textiles before thermoforming
FR3020920A1 (en) * 2014-05-14 2015-11-20 Dbapparel Operations UNDERWEAR RECEIVING A FINE INTERMEDIATE LAYER OF BONDING BETWEEN TWO TEXTILES BEFORE THERMOFORMING
AU2015261307B2 (en) * 2014-05-14 2017-03-02 Hanes Operations Europe Sas Undergarment receiving a thin intermediate layer of adhesive bonding between two textiles before thermoforming
US20170079335A1 (en) * 2014-05-14 2017-03-23 Hanes Operatioins Europe Sas Undergarment Receiving a Thin Intermediate Bonding Layer Between Two Textiles Prior To Thermoforming
US10638800B2 (en) 2014-05-14 2020-05-05 Hanes Operations Europe Sas Undergarment receiving a thin intermediate bonding layer between two textiles prior to thermoforming
US11659872B2 (en) 2014-05-14 2023-05-30 Dbi Operations Europe Sas Undergarment receiving a thin intermediate bonding layer between two textiles prior to thermoforming
RU2738867C2 (en) * 2016-06-08 2020-12-17 Ан Операсьон Эроп Сас Piece of clothing molded from natural fiber

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CN101267751A (en) 2008-09-17
EP1928273B1 (en) 2014-05-07
EP1928273A1 (en) 2008-06-11
PL1928273T3 (en) 2014-09-30
CA2622591A1 (en) 2007-03-22
FR2890832B1 (en) 2007-11-16
ES2488400T3 (en) 2014-08-27
FR2890832A1 (en) 2007-03-23

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