WO2006043342A1

WO2006043342A1 - Core yarn sewing thread

Info

Publication number: WO2006043342A1
Application number: PCT/JP2005/000745
Authority: WO
Inventors: Toshihiko Kimura; Tomonori Shintaku; Naoki Yamaga
Original assignee: Toray Industries, Inc.
Priority date: 2004-10-19
Filing date: 2005-01-21
Publication date: 2006-04-27
Also published as: CN101044272A; JP2006118061A

Abstract

A core yarn sewing thread produced by twisting together multiple substantially zero-twist core yarns, these substantially zero-twist core yarns each obtained by effecting swivel winding of staple fiber yarn (2) as a sheath yarn around the entire circumferential surface of fiber yarn (1) as a core yarn along its longitudinal direction at a winding rate of 20 to 60% in terms of whole yarn weight ratio. Thus, there can be provided a core yarn sewing thread that in sewing with the use of an industrial lock stitch sewing machine, attains improvement in the dyeing difference between core yarn and sheath yarn, exposure of core yarn portion, stitch puckering, stitch appearance, etc. having been regarded as drawbacks and excels in high-speed sewability, automatic sewability according to computer control and high sewability of buttonhole, etc.

Description

Specification

Core yarn yarn

Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a core-yarn sewing thread that is excellent in sewing properties such as high-speed sewing properties and automatic machine sewing properties and in beautiful stitches.

Background art

[0002] A general yarn configuration of a core yarn yarn is a core yarn fiber composed of a long fiber yarn and a sheath yarn fiber composed of a drafted short fiber yarn. The cores / sheaths are aligned and supplied to the front roller of the spinning machine, combined spinning is performed to produce a core yarn once, and then a plurality of the core yarns are further aligned. The upper twist is applied in the opposite direction.

[0003] The characteristics of this core-yarn sewing thread are that it has higher strength and better sewing properties compared to a spanned thread in which the composition ratio of short fiber yarns is 100%. Its production has increased rapidly. In addition, since the core yarn yarn uses a long fiber yarn as a core yarn, there is a problem that the material cost is higher than that of a span sewing yarn which is 100% short fiber yarn. On the other hand, the fluff of the short fiber yarn used for the sheath yarn of the core yarn sewing thread is more conspicuous compared to the filament sewing thread with a composition ratio of filament yarn of 100%. This is difficult because it is difficult to develop high-quality clothing that improves eye quality.

[0004] As a technique for improving the fundamental problem of these core yarn yarns, for example, a long fiber yarn that has already been twisted and a normal spun yarn are aligned and used in a twister. There has been proposed a “polyester mixed-twisted sewing thread” (see Patent Document 1) composed of a composite yarn having a twisted structure formed by twisting together. Although this sewing thread is a reasonably manufactured mixed twist sewing thread, it is not completely covered with the long fiber yarn S-spun yarn due to the structure of the twisting, so the sewing property is low and the long fiber yarn and the span Since the dyeing difference and gloss difference with the yarn are also conspicuous, the quality of the core single yarn sewing thread is low.

[0005] Furthermore, a long fiber yarn of a core yarn that has been electrically opened by static electricity is broken into a short fiber group that becomes a sheath yarn. A high-modulus, high-strength, high-breaking elongation “composite” in which a core yarn is produced by composite spinning, and a plurality of the core yarns are aligned and the upper twist is applied. “Sewing thread” (see Patent Document 2) has been proposed. This composite sewing thread is excellent in terms of sewing properties and uniform dyeability between the core and Z-sheath. However, the manufacturing cost is increased by passing through the electric opening process, and fluff is likely to occur during the process. There is a problem that puckering is likely to occur because the grade becomes low and the elongation tends to be high.

[0006] In addition, a core-yarn manufacturing apparatus and its manufacturing method (see Patent Document 3), a two-layer structured yarn and its manufacturing method (see Patent Document 4) are proposed.

[0007] These devices and methods include a spinning section including a hollow guide shaft body in which a yarn passage is formed in the nozzle axis direction, and a swirl flow generating nozzle that causes a swirl flow to act on the tip portion thereof. This is a core-yarn technology in which a bundle of wound short fibers is bundled and wound around the long fibers supplied to the spinning section.

[0008] However, none of the conventional techniques is mentioned as an application technique of core-yarn spinning, and the development to the sewing thread is not mentioned at all. Also, the fineness and high strength characteristics are satisfied, and the sewing property and the quality are excellent. Proposal of manufacturing technology as a sewing thread.

[0009] In addition, a composite sewing thread composed of a composite thread formed by enclosing short fibers around long fibers

(Refer to Patent Document 5) has been proposed, but in all cases, there was a problem that a net was generated due to handling under a high sewing tension, and that the sewing performance immediately deteriorated.

[0010] Furthermore, "covering sewing yarn" (see Patent Document 6) by the bundling spinning method has been proposed, but the winding amount of the sheath yarn is extremely small compared to the total yarn amount and is intermittent in the yarn length direction. Since this is a method of binding and winding, the core part is easily exposed in some places, and the winding is not uniform and the whole part is not wound. Therefore, there is a fatal defect that the core thread exposes the gap force of the sheath thread.

[0011] As described above, the core single yarn sewing thread has excellent performance in terms of sewability and thread appearance! The reality is that there are still enough things to be obtained.

Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 02-33341

Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-3977

Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-69760 Patent Document 4: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-69774

Patent Document 5: Japanese Patent No. 2901806

Patent Document 6: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 02-160943

Disclosure of the invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

[0012] In view of the background of strong conventional technology, the present invention provides a difference in dyeing of the core Z-sheath yarn and exposure of the core yarn portion, which has been regarded as a conventional defect when sewing using an industrial lockstitch machine. The seam puckering, the appearance of the seam, etc. are improved, and it is intended to provide a core-yarn sewing thread that is excellent in high-speed sewing, computer-controlled automatic sewing, or high sewing such as buttonholes. .

Means for solving the problem

[0013] The core yarn yarn of the present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems.

[0014] Firstly, according to the first aspect of the present invention, the short fiber yarns serving as the sheath yarns along the longitudinal direction around the fiber yarns serving as the core yarn are 20% or more and 60% or less of the total yarn weight ratio. A core-yarn sewing thread characterized in that a plurality of twisted core-yarn forces that are substantially twisted and wound with a certain amount are combined.

According to the second aspect of the invention, the short fiber yarn that becomes the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction of the fiber yarn that becomes the core yarn is swirled with a wrinkle amount of 20% or more and 60% or less of the total yarn weight ratio. A core-yarn sewing thread characterized by being wound and having a core-yarn force having a lower twist number (Ts) having a relation of the following formula (1) and further being twisted.

10000 / Ds ^1/2 ≥Ts> 0 (t / m) Equation (1) where Ds: fineness of core yarn (dtex)

A third invention is a core-yarn sewing thread in which the fiber yarn serving as the core yarn is a long fiber yarn.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a core / yarn sewing thread in which the upper twist number (Tu) having the relationship of the following formula (2) is further applied to the core / yarn sewing thread!

[0015] 12000 / Du ^1/2 ≥ Tu≥ 4000Du ^1/2 (t / m) Equation (2)

Du: Multi-core single yarn fineness (dtex) A fifth invention is the core yarn yarn of the first invention, wherein the upper twist number (Tu) and the lower twist number (Ts) have a relationship of the following formula (3): , Thread.

[0016] Tu≥Ts (t / m) Equation (3)

According to a sixth aspect of the present invention, the short fiber yarn that becomes the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction of the fiber yarn that becomes the core yarn is swirled with a wrinkle amount of 20% to 60% of the total yarn weight ratio. A core-yarn sewing thread characterized by applying a lower twist (Ts) having a relationship of the following formula (1) to a wound core yarn having substantially no twist, and further aligning a plurality of the core yarns. This is a manufacturing method.

The invention's effect

[0017] According to the present invention, it is possible to reduce the difference in dyeing of the core Z sheath yarn, which has been regarded as a conventional defect, to prevent the core yarn portion from being exposed, and to solve the puckering of the stitches after sewing. In addition, a high-performance core-one yarn thread that has excellent sewing properties such as high-speed sewing and compatibility with automatic machines and can reduce costs in the sewing process can be obtained. Furthermore, since the end of the fluffy short fiber is uniformly wound around the core thread, the sewing thread has an effect that the surface of the stitches after sewing looks beautiful and the quality is excellent. .

Brief Description of Drawings

[0018] FIG. 1 is an external view of an embodiment of a core yarn used for core yarn sewing and yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an external view of one yarn sewing thread of the present invention using the core one yarn of FIG.

Explanation of symbols

[0019] 1: Long fiber yarn of core yarn part

2: Short fiber yarn of sheath yarn that is surrounded by core yarn in parallel with the tube

3: Short fiber yarn of sheath yarn with uniform tight wrap around the second outer layer BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0020] The present invention has solved the above-mentioned problems and, as a result of intensive studies on a high-performance core-one yarn sewing thread that can easily adjust the sewing conditions of the sewing machine with less thread breakage during sewing, I made the core yarn of the twist as it was, or gave it a little lower twist, and then arranged several more and twisted the upper to make a sewing thread, and found that it was possible to solve all the difficult problems at once. .

Hereinafter, the best mode of the core yarn yarn of the present invention will be described.

[0022] First, as described above, according to the first invention, the short fiber yarn that becomes the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction of the entire fiber yarn that becomes the core yarn has a total yarn weight ratio of 20% or more. A core-yarn sewing thread characterized by comprising a plurality of twisted core yarns that are substantially twisted and wound with a hooking amount of 60% or less.

[0023] Here, as the core yarn, it is possible to use any ordinary synthetic fiber. Among them, fiber yarns such as polyester and polyamide are suitable. In addition, aromatic polyamide fibers, polyethylene fibers, elastic fibers, cellulosic fibers, and the like, which are called highly functional fibers, can be easily applied and are not particularly limited.

[0024] When a long fiber yarn is used for the core yarn, the single fiber filament fineness of the long fiber yarn is preferably in the range of 30-200dtex. The number of single fiber filaments in the range of 12-200 is suitable. For example, when the fineness of the filament filament yarn is 33 dtex, 12 to 30 yarns are more preferable, and 78 dtex to 24 yarns to 72 yarns with 200 dtex 50 to 200 yarns are more preferable. This is related to the single fiber filament fineness and the number of single fiber filaments. When the single fiber filament fineness increases, the sewing thread becomes harder and the stitches are raised. On the other hand, if the yarn is thinned, the twisting process force also generates fuzz or decreases the strength until the final finishing wrinkle process. Therefore, the combination of the single fiber fineness and the number of single fiber filaments must be selected appropriately.

[0025] In addition, when the number of single-filament filament yarns is large, the bending and twisting characteristics of the core yarn are more flexible, the sewability is improved, and the puckering of the seam is improved. On the other hand, it may be difficult to obtain a dark color with a strong staining power. Of course, it is possible for the thread even at finenesses outside this range. Beauty, durability, or color of the fabric. It is essential to design the yarn according to the purpose and application, as it may cause various problems such as matching.

[0026] As the sheath yarn, any ordinary synthetic fiber can be used in the same manner as the core yarn in which the short fiber yarn is used, and among these, polyester fibers and polyamide fibers are suitable. In addition to synthetic fibers, natural fibers such as cotton, silk, cellulosic and acrylic fibers can be easily applied. The term “short fiber yarn” as used in the present invention means a fiber having a length of several cm— “h several cm, such as cotton and wool, and is a raw material for spun yarn, futon cotton, stuffed cotton and the like. Examples of specific forms include those called stable fibers, discontinuous fibers, or simply staples.

[0027] As the staple fiber, the single fiber fineness is preferably in the range of 0.1-3 dtex.

5-1. The range of 5dtex is more preferable because the core-yarn spinnability, the smoothness of the thread of the core-yarn sewing thread, and the softness and force of the core-yarn sewing thread also lead to high stitchability. The fiber length may be either short spinning type 51 mm or less and long spinning type 51 mm or more, but the former is highly powerful because of the beautifulness after sewing the core yarn yarn. According to the characteristics, the latter spinning method is preferred!

[0028] The number of sheath yarns wound around the core yarn should be at least 40. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but if it is 500 or more, it is not preferred because it tends to be stiff or cause uneven yarn. If the number is less than 40, the winding property will be poor, which is not preferable. The ratio between the fineness of the core yarn and the fineness of the sheath yarn is preferably in the range of 1 to 0.5—1 to 4.0, and the fineness of the sheath yarn is about 50 to 200%, which is most preferable. It is a combination.

[0029] The yarn weight of the short fiber yarn used as the sheath yarn needs to be within the range of 20% or more and 60% or less with respect to the total yarn weight of the core yarn including the core yarn. If it is wound at less than 20%, the core yarn is exposed and the strength is also lowered immediately, so that the formation of a core yarn which is liable to cause a winding failure or unplugging becomes insufficient. On the other hand, if the yarn is wound with a yarn weight exceeding 60%, the core yarn is not exposed, but the strength is likely to decrease greatly. Therefore, it is more preferable to wrap around 30% -50%.

[0030] As a method of measuring the weight of the sheath yarn, a 1-inch long core yarn yarn is disassembled into a core yarn and a sheath yarn using a magnifying glass, and only the short fibers wound around the sheath yarn are taken out. weight( g) is measured. The weight is calculated as a weight ratio with respect to the total yarn weight.

[0031] As a method of wrinkling the core yarn with respect to the core yarn, it is preferable that the single fiber yarn of the sheath yarn is tightly wound in the yarn length direction of the core yarn and swirled around the entire surface. This is because the sheath yarn with almost no exposure of the core yarn is uniformly wound in a certain direction and tightly wound on the entire surface, so that the binding force is increased and a core yarn which is preferable for sewing yarn is formed. In this way, the core yarn that is tightly wound around the entire surface in a certain direction has the characteristics that the sheath yarn is wound, but the core yarn as a whole is substantially free and generates little torque. . The term “substantially no twist” as used in the present invention means that the core yarn of the corer has no twist, and specifically means that the core yarn has a twist force of about 5 tZm or less.

[0032] Since the end use is a sewing thread as the direction of wrapping the sheath thread, the S direction is the same as the lower direction of a general sewing thread. On the contrary, the twisting torque becomes stronger in the Z direction, resulting in poor process passage. In addition, since the yarn structure in which the winding direction is once twisted back is obtained, it is not preferable because the strength is easily lowered and the yarn streak unevenness is likely to occur. That is, in the core yarn yarn of the present invention, a plurality of core yarns in which the lower twist is inserted in the same direction as the yarn winding direction are aligned, and the upper twist is inserted in the Z direction opposite to the lower twist direction. A core-yarn sewing thread having a different structure is preferable.

[0033] The angle of the sheath yarn that wraps uniformly over the entire length of the yarn is preferably in the range of 20 degrees to 70 degrees. Here, the angle refers to an angle between the yarn length direction and the wound sheath yarn fiber. If it is less than 20 degrees, the cohesive strength becomes low, and the loosening occurs, and the spinnability is greatly reduced. On the other hand, if the average exceeds 70 degrees, the wrapping property becomes high, but the thickness unevenness occurs and the spinning property is lowered, which is not preferable. From the viewpoint of spinning property and yarn formation, a more preferable winding angle is in the range of 30 to 60 degrees. The winding angle was measured by measuring the angle of the wound sheath yarn fibers by 10 times from the yarn form photograph obtained by photographing the core yarn with a scanning electron microscope at a magnification of 40 times.

The average value is calculated. When the lower twist is inserted in the core yarn, the lower twist number is returned to the original zero number and measured. By adopting the above-described configuration, the core yarn of the present invention is a yarn in which the core yarn used is swirled around the entire surface of the fiber yarn in which the short fibers of the sheath yarn are the core yarn at a substantially uniform interval. By the structure, the core The appearance of one yarn thread becomes smooth, and as a result, it has a positive influence on the back stitchability of sewing, automatic machine sewing, and the beautifulness of the stitches. In the specific data of the core yarn yarn that has become a product, the higher the thread cutting strength, the fewer thread breakage during sewing and the easier it is to manage the tension of the sewing machine. Therefore, it is preferable to use at least 5 cNZdtex or more. Gusara prefers to have more than 7cNZdtex! / ,.

[0034] The boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn yarn is preferably 5% or less, more preferably 3% or less, in order to prevent puckering after sewing.

[0035] In the first invention, as described above, the core yarn is substantially free of tension, and the force is tightly attached to the entire surface in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Unlike the structure, there is no need to have a lower twist applied for the purpose of improving the binding property, preventing twist cracking, and improving the yarn strength.

In the second aspect of the invention, as described above, the core yarn is substantially free, and the force is tightly tacked over the entire surface in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. In addition, it is characterized in that the amount of lower twist applied for the purpose of improving the binding property, preventing twist cracking and improving the yarn strength may be small. Since the core yarn already has a yarn structure in which the single fiber that is the sheath yarn is tightly wound, it is easier to handle the yarn due to the occurrence of yoritiku compared to the core yarn produced by ordinary ring spinning. Become. Therefore, it is possible to omit the usual steaming set to stop twisting.

[0036] Therefore, it is preferable that the core twist yarn Ts is inserted into the core yarn thread. As a range, 10000 / Ds ^1/2 ≥Ts> 0 (t / m) Equation (1)

Therefore, as little as possible is suitable for sewing. Where Ds is the fineness (dtex) of the core yarn. If the number of lower twists is inserted beyond the relationship of 10000 ZDs ^1/2 , the sewing performance will be significantly reduced, especially in back sewing and automatic machine sewing, where thread breaks will occur frequently and high-speed sewing will be reduced. Therefore, it is not preferable. For example, with a core yarn of 230 dtex, which is equivalent to core yarn of 78 dtex and sheath yarn of 151 dtex, when the lower twist exceeds 800 tZm or more, the sewnability tends to be lowered. Speaking of the preferred sewing power, the lower the number of lower twists, the better. The force that is best when zero, that is, the condition where almost no lower twists are inserted, is the best. Considering the temper and uniformity of the thread after twisting, it is practically preferable to insert about 50-lOOtZm because the process can be stably passed.

[0037] The third invention is further characterized in that the fiber yarn used as the core yarn of the core yarn is a long fiber yarn. In this case, the thread is smoother and more uniform and the thread strength is higher than in the case of using 100% short fibers using short fibers, and the sewing performance is of high quality. However, the use of long fiber yarns as described above increases the cost of the sewing thread. Therefore, it is preferable to use and separate 100% short fiber yarn and core yarn mixed with long fiber yarn according to the sewing application.

[0038] As a preferable property of the long fiber yarn, it is a matter of course that the tenacity is high, but the elongation is preferably as low as possible. Specifically, it is preferably 10% or less, more preferably 5

% Or less. In addition, it is preferable that the shrinkage rate of boiling water or dry heat is low. It is extremely effective in preventing puckering after sewing if it is within the effective range.

[0039] Regarding the fourth invention, the core-yarn sewing thread is a core-yarn sewing thread that is further subjected to an upper twist (Tu) twist having a relationship of the following formula (2)! / And

12000 / Du ^1/2 ≥ Tu≥ 4000Du ^1/2 (t / m) Equation (2)

The range of is preferable. Here, Du is the fineness (dtex) of a plurality of aligned core yarns. When the upper twist number Tu exceeds 12000ZDu ^1/2, strength decreases greatly variable sewing property is lowered, 4 OOOZDu focusing property is lowered less than ^half, good better since lowering of strength is greatly variable stitch is lowered It ’s not. The upper twist is preferably applied lower than the range applied to normal sewing threads.For example, core yarn 78dtex and sheath thread 151dtex equivalent core yarn 230dtex should be inserted in the Z direction from 500tZm to 250tZm. ! /

[0040] For the fifth invention, in the present invention, the number of lower twists is preferably zero or small! /! Therefore, the number of upper twists is greater than the number of lower twists, which is completely opposite to the conventional core-yarn sewing thread twist design concept. In other words, in the range of the ring-type core-yarn sewing thread that is usually practiced, the force having the relationship of lower twist number Tu> upper twist number Ts In the core-yarn thread of the present invention, the sheath yarn fibers of the core-yarn are tight In addition, the uniform swirling of the entire surface is' the same effect as the insertion of the lower twist.

Upper twist number Tu≥ Lower twist number Ts (t / m) Equation (3) It is a characteristic that The lower twist number is equal to or greater than the upper twist number and less than 150%, more preferably 110-130%. If it is 150% or more, it may lead to generation of strong twisting torque or reduction in strength, which is not preferable.

[0041] Since the core-yarn sewing thread obtained by force, the sheath yarn is uniform and tightly wound.

Compared with conventional products, the convergence is high. In addition, since the number of fluff is extremely small compared to conventional ring spinning core yarns, the core yarn yarn has the excellent effect that the yarn appearance and stitches are beautifully finished.

[0042] The structure of the core yarn yarn of the present invention described above will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is an external view of an embodiment of a core yarn used for sewing and threading according to the present invention.

[0043] Fig. 1 is a form before the lower twist is applied, 1 is a long fiber yarn of core yarn, 2 is a short fiber yarn is a sheath yarn portion that surrounds the core yarn in a cylindrical shape, 3 Shows a part that is almost uniformly and tightly swiveled in the S direction and wound around the entire surface.

[0044] Fig. 2 is an example of a core-yarn sewing thread of the present invention in which two yarns are aligned by twisting a core yarn having a lower twist and two twisted yarns by giving an upper twist in the Z direction. , 4 is fluff, 5 is slack, and 6 is the loop state.

[0045] Next, a manufacturing method of the core yarn yarn of the present invention will be described. As a specific example, a manufacturing method in the case where the core yarn of the core yarn is a long fiber yarn will be described below.

[0046] First, a staple fiber after the drawing step of the spinning process, that is, a short fiber bundle, is used to sandwich a short fiber bundle disposed in the center of the feeding unit of the spinning machine, and the short fiber bundle is sandwiched or short fiber. A short fiber bundle composed of short fiber bundles arranged below the bundle is drafted, and then the drafted fiber bundle and the long fiber yarn are aligned, and supplied to the spinning member using the swirling air flow in the S direction. Then, by performing air spinning while entwining the short fiber yarn around the core fiber composed of the long fiber, the short fiber serving as the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction of the entire surface of the fiber yarn serving as the core yarn. A substantially twist-free core yarn is produced in which the yarn is swirled with a wrinkle amount of 20% to 60% of the total yarn weight ratio. This spinning speed can be manufactured 10-30 times faster than that of conventional ring spinning machines, and the roving process can be omitted, resulting in a significant reduction in manufacturing costs. As an apparatus for performing such air spinning processing, for example, Murata's Voltex Spinner (MVS) Machine (Murata Machine Co., Ltd. )

[0047] Next, a plurality of yarns of the obtained core yarn are aligned, and a force that directly applies an upper twist in the Z direction opposite to the direction wound by the swirling air flow, or the obtained core one By applying the lower twist in the same direction as the direction in which the yarn is wound by the swirling air flow, aligning a plurality of yarns of the obtained core yarn, and applying the upper twist in the direction opposite to the lower twist direction, the present invention The core yarn yarn can be manufactured. In addition, when applying the upper twist by aligning a plurality of lower twists and core yarns, the force that can use a known device / method is the lower twist of the number of lower twists having the relationship of the following formula (1). It is preferable to apply

10000 / Ds ^1/2 ≥Ts> 0 (t / m) Equation (1)

Where Ds is the fineness of the core yarn (dtex)

As described above, the upper twist is preferably the upper twist having the relationship of the following formula (2).

[0048] 12000 / Du ^1/2 ≥ Tu≥ 4000Du ^1/2 (t / m) Equation (2)

Du: Multi-core single yarn fineness (dtex)

After the upper twist is applied, heat set is applied to stop the shrinkage or eliminate the residual torque after the upper twist. After setting, a soft-worn cheese is prepared, subjected to cheese dyeing strength, and finished and then the core-yarn yarn product of the present invention is obtained.

Example

[0049] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples.

[0050] The measurement method was as follows.

(1) Fineness, count, strength, elongation, hot water shrinkage

Conforms to JIS L1090-2003.

(2) Number of fuzz

The number of fluff per lm was measured using F-INDEX TESTER manufactured by Shikibo Co., Ltd.

(3) U%

Measurement was performed using an EVENNESS TESTER 80 manufactured by Keiki Co., Ltd.

(4) Sewing properties Using TZC broad cloth, the needle rotation speed of the sewing machine was changed, and the forward sewing, back sewing and automatic machine sewing were tested.

(5) Sewing evaluation method

A. High-speed sewability: The maximum rotation speed (needle Z minute) and 1000–5000 (needle Z minute) of a sewing machine that can sew 2 layers of 10 TZC broad fabrics was tested.

[0051] B. Knockability: The number of thread breaks in lm sewing (average number of times of Zn = 10) was measured at 1500 (needle Z) for 4 layers of TZC broad fabric, and the evaluation criteria were as follows: did.

[0052] X; Not sewn

Δ; 2-5

〇; 1 1 2

◎; 0

C. Automatic machine compatibility:! The tension range that can be sewn 2m with 1500 (needle Z) for 4 layers of fabric is set, and the evaluation criteria are as follows:

[0053] Not sewn

△ Sewing possible (Tension range is undefined)

〇 100—200g

◎ 50—300g

D. Seam strength: Based on JIS standard L 1093, the tear strength (N) per inch of stitch width was measured.

[0054] E. Stitch Quality Visually evaluated

[0055] △; Can find fuzz

〇; Almost inconspicuous

◎; No fluff

(6) Winding characteristics of sheath yarn

A. Surrounding amount: 1 inch long core yarn yarn is disassembled into core yarn and sheath yarn, and the surrounding fiber weight (g) of the short fiber yarn is measured. The weight ratio is calculated.

[0056] B. Attached amount: 1 inch long core-yarn sewing thread is broken down into a core thread and a sheath thread. Only the wound fiber of the short fiber yarn was taken out and its weight (g) was measured. Then, the weight ratio of the winding amount to the total yarn weight was calculated.

Example 2

First, using Murata's Voltex Spinner (MVS) machine (Murata Machine Co., Ltd.), the strength of the long filament yarn as the core yarn is 6. lcNZdtex polyester multifilament 56dtex 24 filament yarn, Using a sliver with a fiber length of 38mm, a spinning speed of 300mZmin, nozzle pressure 0.6MPa, spindle outer diameter 1.2mm, overfeed rate 1 1%, core draft 40 times, total draft 140 times, nozzle gauge 21mm, core S yarn wound in S direction was manufactured.

[0057] Then, in order to manufacture the one core yarn into a two-thread twist thread, the lower twist number is OtZm (Example 1), 400 tZm (Example 2), and the upper twist number is both 780 tZm in the Z direction. A two-child twisted yarn was produced. In addition, the weight of the polyester raw cotton of the short fiber yarn used as the sheath yarn is 31% of the core yarn of the lower twist OtZm of Example 1 and the core yarn of the lower twist of 400 tZm of Example 2 with respect to the total yarn amount. Was 32%.

[0058] Next, the core yarn of the 2 folds is wound on the cheese, and as a twisting treatment, steam setting is performed at 110 ° C for 20 minutes, then the cheese is wound on soft cheese, and then the koji at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. After relaxing, the cheese was dyed at 130 ° C for 40 minutes and finished in black to produce a core yarn yarn.

[0059] The properties of the obtained core yarn yarn and the results of evaluation of the sewing property are shown in Table 1 described later. [0060] Comparative Example 1

On the other hand, as a comparative example, polyester filament yarn and polyester raw cotton were used as a commercial product of two-core twisted core yarn yarn produced by a ring spinning machine, “EPIC” (ArtN529 Tktl50 Tex21 WHT) manufactured by COATS, USA. The evaluation results used are shown in Table 1 below. In addition, the yarn weight% was zero and the wrapping amount was 61%.

[0061] Examples 3 and 4 Using the same spinning machine and raw yarn 'raw cotton as in Example 1, a core yarn was produced under the same conditions.

[0062] 800 tZm (Example 3) and 1100 t / m (Example 4) are inserted into this core yarn as the lower twist number T, and 780 t / m is inserted as the upper twist number in the Z direction. No. 1 core yarn was manufactured. In addition, the weight of the polyester raw cotton of the short fiber yarn used as the sheath yarn is 32% for the core yarn of the lower twist number of 800 tZm of Example 3 and the core of the lower twist number of Example 4 llOOtZm for the total yarn amount. Yarn was 35%.

[0063] Hereinafter, core one yarn sewing thread was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the sewing thread characteristics and evaluation results of the obtained sewing thread are shown in Table 1 below.

[0064] [Table 1]

Table 1. Sewing evaluation results

From Table 1, in Examples 1 to 4, when the number of lower twists decreases from llOOtZm to Ot / m, high-speed sewing, back stitching, and stitch quality tend to be excellent. In particular, it can be seen that the upper twist number T ≥ the lower twist number T and the lower twist number 400 t / m or less is significantly superior to Examples 3 and 4.

S

. On the other hand, the comparative example 1 had lower seam strength and lower seam quality than the examples 1 and 2. In addition, the sewing threads of Examples 3 and 4 with a larger number of lower twists have lower high-speed stitchability and lower back stitchability, but are superior in seam strength and stitch quality compared to Comparative Example 1. For this reason, it is preferable to sew at a lower sewing speed.

[0066] Example 5

Next, using Murata's Vortex Spinner Machine (Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.), the strength of the short fiber yarn used as the core yarn and the sheath yarn is 5.7 cNZdtex, the raw polyester fiber fineness is 1.45 dtex, and the fiber length is Using a 38mm sliver, spinning speed 350mZmin, nozzle pressure 0.5MPa, spindle outer diameter 1.3mm, total draft 225 times, condenser width 3mm S direction winding about 30th span 100% single thread for sewing Yarn was produced.

[0067] This single yarn is composed of short fiber yarns in which short fiber yarns are arranged in the core portion, and the short fiber yarns that are tightly bound to the entire surface of the short fiber yarns that also surround the sheath portion. It forms a core yarn structure consisting of yarn. In order to produce this core yarn into a two-thread twisted thread, the upper twist number was applied 150t / m in the Z direction to produce a two-core twisted core yarn. The sheath yarn weight was 41% of the yarn weight of this core yarn.

[0068] Then, this two-core twisted core yarn was rolled up on cheese and twisted twice at 110 ° C for 20 minutes, then rolled into soft cheese, and fermented at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. After the relaxation treatment, the cheese was dyed at 133 ° C for 40 minutes and finished in black to produce a core yarn yarn.

[0069] The following table 2 shows the thread characteristics of the obtained core yarn yarn and the evaluation results of the sewability.

[0070] [Table 2]

Table 2. Thread characteristics and results of sewing evaluation

[0071] As shown in Table 2 above, the sewing thread of Example 5 has an extremely small number of fuzz as compared with the core-yarn sewing thread by the ring spinning method of Comparative Example 2, and the finish of the seam is beautiful. U% was low and the thread was smooth.

[0072] Comparative Example 2

Next, using the same short fiber yarn as in Example 5, about 30-th spun yarn in the S direction was produced at a spindle speed of 12000 rpm, a draft of 40 times, and a spinning speed of 20 m / min. 2 children In order to manufacture the sewing thread, the number of upper twists was the usual 780 t / m applied in the Z direction, and a two-core twisted core yarn was produced. 2 Twist spun yarn is wound around cheese, and the twist setting is repeated twice for 20 minutes at 110 ° C. Then, it is wound on soft cheese and chilled at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. After relaxing, The cheese was dyed at 130 ° C for 40 minutes and finished in black, and a normal spun thread was produced by ring spinning.

[0073] Table 2 shows the sewing thread characteristics and the results of the sewability evaluation of the obtained span sewing thread.

[0074] As shown in Table 2 above, since the sewing thread of Comparative Example 2 had a large number of fluff, the fluff tip was conspicuous on the surface of the seam, which was extremely noticeable and disadvantageous when sewing fabric using filament thread.

[0075] Comparative Examples 3, 4, 5, 6

Using a Murata Jet Spinner (MJS) machine (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.), the strength of the long filament yarn used as the core yarn is 6. lcNZdtex polyester multifilament 56dtex24 filament yarn and sheath Using a sliver with polyester fiber of 1.3dtex and fiber length S38mm, spinning speed 200mZmin, Z swirling air swirl nozzle pressure 0.5MPa, S swirling air swirling nozzle A core Yan with S-direction bundling was manufactured at a pressure of 0.5 MPa, an overfeed rate of 0.0%, and a total draft of 40 times.

[0076] Compared with Examples 2, 3, and 4, there is poor coverage such as uneven yarn streaks due to the difference in the yarn structure between the binding portion and the non-binding portion, and the filament yarn of the core yarn can be confirmed on the inner layer side of the non-binding portion. stand out.

[0077] Then, in order to manufacture the core yarn into a two-thread twist thread, the lower twist number in the S direction is set to OtZm (Comparative Example 3), 400tZm (Comparative Example 4), 800tZm (Comparative Example 5), llOOtZm (Comparative) In Example 6), the number of upper twists was applied at 780 t / m in the Z direction to produce a two-core twisted core yarn.

[0078] Next, the two cores of the core are rolled up on cheese, and as a twisting treatment, steam set at 110 ° C for 20 minutes, then rolled up on soft cheese, and then subjected to scouring at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. After the relaxation treatment, the cheese was dyed at 130 ° C for 40 minutes and finished in black. The yarn was a core yarn yarn with noticeable unevenness and poor coverage.

[0079] The properties of the obtained core yarn yarn and the evaluation results of the sewability are shown in Table 3 to be described later. Comparative Example 7

As in Comparative Example 3, using Murata Jet's Spinner (MJS) machine (Murata Machine Co., Ltd.) The strength of the long filament yarn used as the core yarn is 6. Polyester multifilament of lcNZdtex 5 6dtex24 filament yarn and the short fiber yarn used as the sheath yarn are polyester raw cotton having a fineness of 1.3dtex and a fiber length of 38mm Using a sliver, at a spinning speed of 200 mZmin, Z swirling air swirl nozzle pressure, S swirling air swirling nozzle pressure, overfeed rate, etc. However, the amount of wrapping around the bundle was small, so it was impossible to produce a core that was suitable for sewing threads.

[0080] Comparative Example 8

As in Comparative Example 3, using a Murata 'Jet' Spinner (MJS) machine (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.), the strength of the filament yarn as the core yarn is 6. lcNZdtex polyester multifilament 5 6dtex24 filament Using a sliver with a polyester fiber of 1.3 dtex and a fiber length of 38 mm, a spinning speed of 200 mZmin, an air swirling nozzle pressure for Z processing of 0.5 MPa, Spun line air swirl nozzle pressure of 0.5 MPa, overfeed rate of 0.0%, total draft of 45 times, was produced.

[0081] Then, in order to manufacture the core one yarn into a two-thread twisted yarn, the lower twist number was set to 800 tZm, the upper twist number was applied to the deviation by 900 tZm in the Z direction, and a two-core twist core one yarn was manufactured. .

[0082] Next, 2 cores of the core twisted yarn are rolled up on cheese, and as a twisting treatment, steam set is performed at 110 ° C for 20 minutes, then wound on soft cheese, and then scoured at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. After relaxing, the cheese was dyed at 130 ° C for 40 minutes and finished in black to produce a core yarn yarn.

[0083] The characteristics of the obtained core-one-yarn sewing thread and the results of evaluation of sewability are shown in Table 3, which will be described later. The obtained core-one-yarn sewing thread is similar to Comparative Examples 3, 4, 5, It was a core-yarn sewing thread with noticeable unevenness and poor coverage.

[0084] [Table 3] * 3. Sewing evaluation results

Industrial applicability

The core yarn yarn of the present invention is a general clothing sewing thread that can be supplied to industrial sewing machines that require high-speed sewing, automatic machine-compatible sewing, back stitching, and beautiful seams. For example, it can be applied to high-end women's clothing that has a smooth surface and a very low pilling as a long and short composite yarn, and has excellent features in the texture. It is.

Claims

The scope of the claims

[1] The short fiber yarn that is the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction of the core yarn that is the core yarn is swirled and wound with a wrinkle amount of 20% to 60%. A core-one yarn sewing thread characterized by comprising a plurality of twisted core yarns.

[2] Short fiber yarns, which are sheath yarns, are wound around the entire circumference of the fiber yarns, which are core yarns, with a wrinkle amount of 20% to 60% of the total yarn weight ratio, and A core-yarn sewing thread comprising a plurality of twisted core yarns having a lower twist number (Ts) having a relationship of the following formula (1).

[3] The core-yarn sewing thread according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fiber yarn serving as the core yarn is a long fiber yarn.

[4] The core according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the core yarn yarn is further provided with a lower twist (Tu) having a relation of the following formula (2): One yarn sewing thread.

12000 / Du ^1/2 ≥ Tu≥ 4000Du ^1/2 (t / m) Equation (2)

Du: Multi-core single yarn fineness (dtex)

[5] The core-yarn sewing thread according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the upper twist number (Tu) and the lower twist number (Ts) have the relationship of the following formula (3):

Tu≥Ts (t / m) Equation (3)

[6] The short fiber yarn that is the sheath yarn along the longitudinal direction is substantially wound around the entire circumference of the fiber yarn that is the core yarn with a wrinkle amount of 20% to 60% of the total yarn weight ratio. A method for producing a core-yarn sewing thread, characterized in that: