WO2006028311A1

WO2006028311A1 - Cosmetic powder, its preparing method and make-up cosmetic composition comprising the same

Info

Publication number: WO2006028311A1
Application number: PCT/KR2004/002604
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cheon-Koo Lee; Kyong-Seob Kim; Hong-Ha Son; Dong-Sung Seo
Original assignee: LG Household and Health Care Ltd
Current assignee: LG H&H Co Ltd
Priority date: 2004-09-07
Filing date: 2004-10-12
Publication date: 2006-03-16
Anticipated expiration: 2007-03-07
Also published as: KR20060022572A; CN101014316B; CN101014316A; KR100789343B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic powder, a method of preparing the same, and a make-up cosmetic composition comprising the same in the present invention. More specifically, the cosmetic powder of the present invention comprises powder and matrix layers coated on its surface wherein the matrix layers comprise nano-sized liposome and emulsion (NLE) and lamella liquid crystal. Therefore, the present invention provides cosmetic powder coated with NLE and lamella liquid crystal not only endowing the same skin treatment effects with make-up cosmetics as with skincare products due to the even emission of active components belonging to NLE, but also contributing to obtaining a make-up cosmetic composition with the high skin compatibility, low sensitivity and, excellent skin softness and moisture effects due to the bound water combined in lamella liquid crystal. In addition, the present invention provides a make-up cosmetic composition having an excellent applicability and adherence to skin due to the matrix layer coated on the surface of the powder.

Description

COSMETIC POWDER, ITS PREPARING METHOD AND MAKE-UP

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE SAME

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

(a) Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a cosmetic powder, a method of

preparing the same, and a make-up cosmetic composition comprising the

same, and more specifically, to a cosmetic powder with skincare treatment

effects by evenly emitting active components included in Nano-sized

Liposome and Emulsion (hereafter, referred to NLE) and lamella liquid

crystals, a method of preparing it, and a make-up cosmetic composition

comprising the same.

(b) Description of the Related Art

All products using liposome or emulsions, from foods to medicines

as well as cosmetics, have their use in water as a medium in common

because they advantageously exist in the water medium, which naturally

understood in the related field.

However, unlike skincare products, most make-up cosmetics do not

use water as a medium. Accordingly, liposomes have seldom been used in

powder-based cosmetic products such as eye shadows, blusher, cake-type

foundations, compact foundations, and powder foundations; lip make-up

products mainly using waxes and oils such as lipstick and lip gloss; control base and emulsion type foundation products including water but also used

for solid-type cosmetics; and eye make-up products such as mascara,

eyebrow pencils, and so on. Therefore, make-up cosmetics cannot have

the same skin treatment functions as do skincare products such as

stabilization of active component, and skin permeation or transdermal

absorption reinforcement accomplished by positively using the active

components of liposomes.

Conventional make-up products, for example eye shadow, blusher,

liquid foundation, compact foundation, powder foundation, cake-type

foundation, and so on, have employed a surface treatment method for

improving the defects of powder properties and allowing their own

properties. The following are representative surface treatment methods: zinc

stearate treatment, silicon treatment, fluorine-based oil treatment, amino

acid treatment, wax treatment, oil component treatment, and lecithin

treatment, and so on.

The conventional surface treatments for make-up cosmetics have

mainly focused on the improvement of their own powder properties such as

sweat and water resistance, durability, adherence to skin, agreeability of

use, and so on. Accordingly, it has been regarded as impossible to endow

make-up cosmetics with skin treatments such as those that skincare

products have in this method.

However, there have been ceaseless efforts to compound liposomes into make-up cosmetics. Korean patent publication No. 90-8308 discloses

how to form make-up compounds of cosmetics with powdered liposomes

after the evaporation of moisture therein. Here, the liposomes were directly

compounded as a part of the make-up cosmetic composition. However, this

method was not ultimately advantageous for make-up cosmetics that were

mostly composed of solid materials, as the liposomes were impeded from

directly contacting the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In order to solve the aforementioned problems, an aspect of the

present invention is to provide a cosmetic powder which includes powders

and matrix layers coated thereon, and the matrix layers include nano-sized

liposome and emulsion (NLE) and lamella liquid crystal.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a method of

preparing the aforementioned cosmetic powder.

Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a make-up

cosmetic composition including the aforementioned cosmetic powder.

In order to accomplish these aspects, the present invention provides

cosmetic powder including powder and matrix layers coated thereon, the

matrix layer comprising nano-sized liposome and emulsion (NLE) and

lamella liquid crystal.

The present invention also provides a method of preparing the

cosmetic powder including the following steps: preparing a dispersed solution by adding a water-dispersed solution of self-assembly ampholytic

material and a skin-active material into higher alcohol or fatty acid , and

polyhydric alcohol dissolved with heat; preparing a coating solution by

applying shear force to the dispersed solution while heating it; coating

matrix layers to be absorbed on the surface of powder by carefully adding a

metal salt solution after dispersing powder in the coating solution, or by

slowly adding the coating solution after adding a metal salt solution into the

water phase dispersed with powder; and obtaining cosmetic powder coated

with matrix layers by washing, filtering, and drying the coated powder

prepared in the previous step after setting it aside for a time until the coated

powder sinks down into sediment and removing the supernatant solution

therefrom.

The present invention also provides a make-up cosmetic

composition including the cosmetic powder prepared in the aforementioned

method.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

A more complete appreciation of the invention, and many of the

attendant advantages thereof, will be readily apparent as the same

becomes better understood by reference to the following detailed

description when considered in conjunction with the accompanying

drawings.

Fig. 1 is a schematic cross sectional view of the cosmetic powder of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a picture of the cosmetic powder prepared according to

Example 1 , which is magnified 100,000 times with a scanning electron

microscope (SEM).

Fig. 3 is a picture of the cosmetic powder prepared according to

Example 2, which is magnified 100,000 times with an SEM.

Fig. 4 is a picture of the cosmetic powder prepared according to

Example 3, which is magnified 100,000 times with an SEM.

Fig. 5 is a graph illustrating the absorbance of vitamin E acetate

within the wavelength of 200nm to 900nm measured with a DRIFT UV-VIS

spectrometer.

Fig. 6 is a DRIFT UV-VIS spectroscopic graph of the cosmetic

powder prepared according to Example 4 and of the talc before coating in

its Comparative Example.

DETAILED DESCRITPION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

The cosmetic powder of the present invention includes powders and

matrix layers coated on the surface of the powder, and the matrix layer

includes NLE and lamella liquid crystal including a skin-active material, a

self-assembly ampholytic material, a higher alcohol or fatty acid, and

polyhydric alcohol.

The matrix layer does not only include the NLE formed with the

aforementioned self-assembly ampholytic material, higher alcohol or fatty acid, and polyhydric alcohol, but also includes a liquid crystal formed with

the self-assembly ampholytic material, higher alcohol or fatty acid, and

polyhydric alcohol having no relation with the formation of the NLE. This

liquid crystal shapes a lamella that appears transparent or bluish. As shown

in Fig. 1 , liquid crystal is coated with NLE on the surface of the cosmetic

powder.

The weight ratio of the matrix layers and powder is preferably in the

range of 0.5:99.5 to 30:70, and more preferably in the range of 1 :99 to 15:85.

A weight ratio of under 0.5:99.5 could bring about insufficient skincare

effects, while a weight ratio of over 30:70 not only cause bad agreeability in

use but is also uneconomical because skincare effects may not be

significantly improved in proportion to the increased amount of both

materials.

Preferable examples of the cosmetic powder employed for coating in

the present invention include at least one material selected from the group

consisting of talc, mica, sericite, phlogopite, barium sulfate, kaolin, platy

alumina, boron nitride, titaniuim dioxide coated on mica , fluorine apatite,

hydroxyapatite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, titanium dioxide,

iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, and silica.

The skin-active material supported inside NLE or contained between

the layers and the structures of the lamella liquid crystal is advantageously

at least one material selected from the group consisting of collagen, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, arbutin, oil soluble extract of

Glycyrrhiza uralensis, extract of Mori Cortex Radicis , vitamin A and a

derivative thereof, vitamin B and a derivative thereof, vitamin C and a

derivative thereof, vitamin E and a derivative thereof, nicotinamide and a

derivative thereof, serina-4(14),7(11)-diene-8-on(AT-1), 5,15-diacetyl-3-

benzoyllathyrol, tripeptide, resveratrol, jasmonate, methyljasmonate,

oligopeptide and a derivative thereof, and polyphenol and a derivative

thereof. This active material is preferably included in an amount of 0.001 to

10 parts by weight, and more preferably 0.05 to 5 parts by weight with

respect to 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic powder. The amount of the

active material can be regulated within the above weight ratio range

depending on the properties of included materials and the degree of desired

effects. However, an amount of the active material of under 0.001 parts by

weight does not result in sufficient skincare effects, while an amount of over

10 parts by weight can result in poor economy because the skincare effects

do not increase in proportion to the increased amount of the active material.

The self-assembly ampholytic material being capable of comprising

NLE and lamella liquid crystal is preferably at least one material selected

from the group consisting of an amino acid-based surfactant, a lecithin-

based surfactant, phospholipids, ceramide, and cholesterol.

As to the amino acid-based surfactant, an acylated amino acid-

based surfactant is most comprehensively used at present. More specifically, advantageous is at least one material selected from the group consisting of

N-acyl lysine salt wherein an alkyl group with 12 to 24 carbons is combined

with lysine, and one of hydrogen, sodium, and potassium is substituted in

the end of the carbonyl group, N-acyl glutamate wherein an alkyl group

with 12 to 24 carbons is combined with glutamic acid, and one of hydrogen,

sodium, and potassium is substituted in the end of the carbonyl group; and

N-acyl alaninate wherein an alkyl group with 12 to 24 carbons is combined

with alanine, and one of hydrogen, sodium, and potassium is substituted in

the end of the carbonyl group.

As to the lecithin-based surfactant, advantageous is at least one

material selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated yolk lecithin,

hydrogenated soy bean lecithin, and synthetic lecithin.

As to the phospholipids, advantageous is at least one material

selected from the group consisting of glycerophospholipids, sphingolipids,

sphingoglycolipids, sphingophospholipids, phosphatidylcholine,

phosphatidylinositol, and phosphatidylmyelin.

As to the ceramide, advantageous is at least one material selected

from the group consisting of acyl ceramide, hydroxy ceramide, and synthetic

ceramide.

As to the cholesterol, advantageous is at least one material selected

from the group consisting of cholesterol, cholesterol ester, and

ethyleneoxide-added cholesterol with the added ethyleneoxide mole number Of 10 tO 30.

These self-assembly ampholytic materialampholytic material can be

used alone or as a mixture with other materials to facilitate the formation of

NLE.

The amount of the self-assembly ampholytic materialampholytic

material is advantageously in the range of 0.05 to 10 parts by weight with

respect to 100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder. The amount of the self-

assembly ampholytic material can be regulated within the above range

depending on the HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value and the

packing parameter on the interface, advantageously accomplishing the

intended purpose. An amount of under 0.05 parts by weight may not

achieve sufficient skincare effects while an amount of over 10 parts by

weight is not economical because skincare effects may hardly increase in

proportion to the increased amount of self-assembly ampholytic material.

The higher alcohol or fatty acid cannot form NLE alone, but co-works

with self-assembly ampholytic material, assisting the formation of NLE by

improving the packing density and the packing property of the membrane

materials of NLE. The higher alcohol or fatty acid working as a kind of an

assistant for NLE formation is advantageously at least one material selected

from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, lauroyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,

stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, batyl

alcohol, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid. The amount of the higher alcohol or fatty

acid is advantageously in the range of 0.05 to 5 parts by weight with respect

to 100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder. An amount of under 0.05 parts

by weight cannot achieve sufficient skincare effects, while an amount of

over 5 parts by weight can hardly increase skincare effects in proportion of

the increased amount.

The polyhydric alcohol facilitates NLE formation by actively

dissolving and swelling higher alcohol or fatty acid and self-assembly

ampholytic material. It is advantageously at least one material selected from

the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,

1 ,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, trimethylene

glycol, pentamethylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, hexylene glycol, octylene

glycol and glycerin. The amount of polyhydric alcohol with respect to the

cosmetic powder is advantageously in the range of 0.1 to 10 parts by weight

with respect to 100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder. An amount of under

0.1 parts by weight may not bring about sufficient skincare effects, while an

amount of over 10 parts by weight is not economically advantageous

because skincare effects hardly increase in proportion to its increased

amount.

The present invention also provides a method of preparing the

cosmetic powder including the following steps: preparing a dispersed

solution by adding a water-dispersed solution of self-assembly ampholytic material and a skin-active material into higher alcohol or fatty acid, and

polyhydric alcohol melted with heat; preparing a coating solution by applying

shear force to the dispersed solution while heating it; coating matrix layers

to be absorbed on the surface of powder by carefully adding a metal salt

solution after dispersing powder in the coating solution, or by slowly adding

the coating solution after adding a metal salt solution into the water phase

dispersed with powder; and obtaining cosmetic powder coated with matrix

layers by washing, filtering, and drying the coated powder prepared in the

previous step after setting it aside for a time until the coated powder sinks

down into sediment and removing the supernatant solution therefrom.

A method of preparing cosmetic powder in the present invention is

now described in more detail. Cosmetic powder of the present invention is

prepared through the following steps. First, a dispersed solution is prepared

by adding a water-dispersed solution of self-assembly ampholytic material

and skin-active material to a higher alcohol or fatty acid, and polyhydric

alcohol dissolved with heat. The polyhydric alcohol facilitates NLE formation

and actively dissolves the higher alcohol or fatty acid.

The aforementioned self-assembly ampholytic material, skin-active

material, higher alcohol or fatty acid, and polyhydric alcohol used here is the

same as described above.

A coating solution is prepared by applying shear force to the

dispersed solution while heating it. Here, the heating temperature is advantageously in the range of 60

to 90 °C , considering the melting point of the self-assembly ampholytic

material and higher alcohol or fatty acid. If the temperature is under 6O⁰C , a

solid material like fatty acid is difficult to dissolve, causing insufficient

formation of the liposome and emulsion and the like. On the contrary, when

the temperature is over 90^°C , a material with low safety against heat could

be denaturalized, and it is also uneconomical.

As to a dispersing device, advantageously used is a homogenizer or

a sonicator producing shear force at dispersion. The amount of time for the

dispersion is advantageously in the range of 1 to 30 minutes, and more

advantageously 1 to 10 minutes.

In addition, the dispersing solution can be additionally passed

through a microfludizer one to three times more after applying shear force.

After powder is dispersed in the aforementioned coating solution, the

matrix layers is absorbed and coated on the surface of powder by carefully

adding a metal salt solution after dispersing powder in the coating solution,

or by slowly adding the coating solution after adding a metal salt solution

into the water phase dispersed with powder. The metal salt solution includes

counter ions regulating the zeta potential of the electric surface charge of

NLE and lamella liquid crystal.

The surface charge of self-assembly ampholytic material plays an

important role in coating matrix layers including NLE and lamella liquid crystal on the surface of cosmetic powder. In general, the stability of colloid

in the dispersed system depends on its potential energy represented by the

sum of repulsion and attraction. That is, the colloid is either maintained

stably or is coagulated down to sediment, depending on the balance

between repulsion and attraction among particles.

Based on this theoretical background, the present inventor found

that NLE and lamella liquid crystal can be actively coated on the surface of

cosmetic powder by regulating the interactions among colloid particles in the

disperse system of NLE, lamella liquid crystal, and cosmetic powder. In

other words, the interactions among colloid particles are also formed among

powder-powder, NLE-NLE, lamella liquid crystal-lamella liquid crystal,

powder-NLE, powder- lamella liquid crystal, and NLE- lamella liquid crystal.

The interaction required for coating is attraction rather than repulsion among

particles.

Considering that it is advantageous for small colloids to move toward

larger ones in the coating process and that the diameter of powder particle

is relatively larger and heavier than that of NLE and lamella liquid crystal,

the interaction among powder particles can be ignored. In addition, the

interaction among the same colloids such as NLE-NLE and lamella liquid

crystal-lamella liquid crystal can also be ignored. The coagulations formed

with these particles should be more spontaneously oriented and absorbed in

the cosmetic powder, finally being coated, because the size of these coagulations is still relatively smaller than that of powder particles even

though much the attraction among colloids is fortified and the other

interaction, repulsion, is diminished. Therefore, the present invention

focused more attention to the interaction between powder-NLE and powder-

lamella liquid crystal and could successfully accomplish coating of the

powder with NLE and lamella liquid crystal by decreasing the repulsion and

increasing the attraction between them.

Matrix layers including NLE and lamella liquid crystal on the surface

of powder can advantageously be coated by carefully adding and titrating an

polyvalent metal salt aqueous solution and by precisely manipulating the

zeta potential in the dispersed system. The polyvalent metal salt aqueous

solution is appropriate because some materials of self-assembly ampholytic

material are replaced with sodium (Na) and potassium (K). The addition of a

metal salt aqueous solution can also help powder coated on the surface by

decreasing the solubility of self-assembly ampholytic material replaced with

a monovalent alkali metal. Here, the polyvalent metal salt is advantageously

at least one selected from the group consisting of magnesium chloride

(MgCI₂), magnesium sulfate (MgSO₄), zinc chloride (ZnCI₂), zinc sulfate

(ZnSO₄), calcium chloride (CaCI₂), calcium sulfate (CaSO₄), aluminum

chloride (AICI₃), and aluminum sulfate (AI₂(SO₄)₃). The amount of the metal

salt is advantageously in the range of 0.01 to 2 g, and more advantageously

in the range of 0.05 to 1 g with respect to 10O g of powder. An amount of under 0.01 g may not sufficiently neutralize the surface charge of self-

assembly ampholytic material, while an amount of over 2 g can make the

coagulation among particles difficult due to the relatively too strong electric

repulsion, eventually impeding the coating.

The careful addition of a metal salt aqueous solution and

manipulation of zeta potential leads the dispersed system of powder-NLE-

lamella liquid crystal to be oriented toward the surface of cosmetic powder

and absorbed in it, reducing the repulsion among NLE's and also among

lamella liquid crystals, and increasing the attraction between NLE and

powder and between lamella liquid crystal and powder. Here, NLE and

lamella liquid crystal are absorbed and coated in a pattern on the surface of

powders. Then, the powders coated with NLE and lamella liquid crystal are

flocculated and slowly sink down, and later, an interfacial separation

happens between water and cosmetic powers coated with matrix layers

including NLE and lamella liquid crystal.

Powder coated with matrix layers including NLE and lamella liquid

crystal in the present invention is obtained by setting aside the

aforementioned solution including the coated powder for a time after the

interfacial separation is complete, by washing and filtering the sediments

after removing the supernatant solution from them, and by drying them at

low or high pressure, depending on the properties of included materials.

The present invention also provides the cosmetic powder prepared in the aforementioned method.

The cosmetic powder of the present invention makes it possible to

compound NLE and lamella liquid crystal into make-up cosmetic

compositions as skincare products which basically exist in liquid phrase.

The cosmetic powder coated with matrix layers including NLE and

lamella liquid crystal is advantageously compounded in an amount of 0.1 to

30 parts by weight, and more advantageously 0.5 to 20 parts by weight with

respect to 100 parts by weight of a total make-up cosmetic composition. An

amount of under 0.1 parts by weight cannot achieve the intended effects

due to its insufficient amount. On the contrary, a ratio of over 30 parts by

weight is not economical, because it could be excessive regarding every

type and state of make-up cosmetics.

However, the cosmetic powder coated with NLE and lamella liquid

crystal can be applied to various types of make-up cosmetics manufactured

by using dried powder or pulverulent body as a main component. Especially,

it can be appropriately applied to powder-based products commonly using

cosmetic powder, various types of foundations, lip make-up like lipstick, and

eye make-up like mascara, and more specifically, to cake-type foundation,

powder foundation, compact foundation, liquid foundation, control base,

skin-cover, eye-shadow, Cheek color, lipstick, mascara, and eyebrow pencil.

Cosmetic powder coated with NLE and lamella liquid crystal can not

only endow the same skin treatment effects with make-up cosmetics as with skincare products due to the even emission of active components which is

included in NLE, but can also contribute to obtaining a make-up cosmetic

composition with high skin compatibility and low sensitivity of NLE and,

excellent skin softness and moisture effects due to the bound water

combined in lamella liquid crystal.

The make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention can be

prepared by precisely manipulating the physicochemical properties of NLE

to be oriented toward and absorbed in cosmetic powder and by variously

treating them to be coated on the surface of cosmetic powder, forming

matrix layers including NLE and lamella liquid crystal which render NLE

excluding water to exist stably in a water phase. Therefore, the make-up

cosmetic composition of the present invention includes a component known

as most difficult to be applied to make-up cosmetics.

The following examples and experimental examples illustrate the

present invention in further detail. However, it is understood that the present

invention is not limited by these examples and experimental examples.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Lecithin at 2 parts by weight and arbutin at 0.2 parts by weight with

respect to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by weight were dissolved in 100 m-C

of distilled water, heated to the temperature of 65 ^°C, and dispersed for 3

minutes with sonicator. On the other hand, stearyl alcohol at 0.3 parts by weight was mixed and dissolved in 1 ,3-butylene glycol at 2 parts by weight

with heat of up to 70 ^°C , and the resulting solution was dispersed in the

water phase of the lecithin and arbutin solution with heat of up to 75 ^°C .

Talc at 95.5 parts by weight was put into 900 m£ of distilled water,

and sufficiently dispersed and agitated together. Then, 10 m£ of a 5%

magnesium chloride (MgC^) solution was added to this talc mixture and

agitated together at a ambient temperature.

Next, the coating solution comprising NLE and lamella liquid crystal

which include lecithin, arbutin, stearyl alcohol, and 1 ,3-butylene glycol,

which had been kept at the temperature of 7O⁰C , was gradually added into

this talc and slowly agitated together for 10 minutes so that NLE and lamella

liquid crystal could be sufficiently absorbed on the surface of the talc. Then,

the whole mixture solution was set aside for a time until the sediment sank

to the bottom. After removing the supernatant solution from it, the sediment

was washed twice with distilled water to remove metal salt ions remaining in

the water phase, then dehydrated and dried in vacuum, finally obtaining a

resulting cosmetic powder.

Example 2

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that sericite instead of talc, monosodium stearoyl glutamic acid

instead of lecithin, and collagen instead of arbutin were used.

Example 3 Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that mica instead of talc, retinylpalmitate instead of arbutin and

propylene glycol instead of 1 ,3-butylene glycol, were used.

Example 4

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except for the use of vitamin E acetate instead of arbutin.

Example 5

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that titanium dioxide (TiO₂) instead of talc and vitamin E acetate

instead of arbutin were used.

Example 6

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that mica instead of talc and vitamin E acetate instead of arbutin

were used.

Example 7

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that iron oxide red instead of talc and vitamin E acetate instead of

arbutin were used.

Example 8

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that iron oxide yellow instead of talc and vitamin E acetate instead

of arbutin were used. Example 9

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that iron oxide black instead of talc and vitamin E acetate instead

of arbutin were used.

Example 10

Cosmetic powder was prepared by the same method as in Example

1 except that silica instead of talc and vitamin E acetate instead of arbutin

were used.

Example 11

Phosphatidylcholine at 1.5 parts by weight and nicotinamide at 0.3

parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by weight were dissolved in

100 M of distilled water, heated to 65⁰C , and dispersed for 3 minutes with

sonicator. Cetylalcohol at 0.2 parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100

parts by weight were mixed in 2,3-butylene glycol at 1.5 parts by weight and

dissolved therein with heat of up to 70 ^°C . Then, the dissolved solution was

dispersed in the water phase of the aforementioned phosphatidylcholine

and nicotinamide solution, while heating it to the temperature of 75^°C .

Silica at 96.5 parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by

weight were put into 900 mi, of distilled water, and sufficiently dispersed and

agitated together. Then, 10 m£ of 5% ZnCI₂ aqueous solution was added

thereto, and agitated together at a ambient temperature.

The coating solution comprising NLE and lamella liquid crystal which include phosphatidyl choline, nicotinamide, cetyl alcohol, and 2,3-butylene

glycol, which had been kept at the temperature of 70 "C , was gradually

added to the silica and slowly agitated together so that NLE and lamella

liquid crystal could be sufficiently absorbed on the surface of the silica for 10

minutes. Next, the whole mixture solution was set aside for a time until the

sediment sank. After removing supernatant solution therefrom, the sediment

was washed twice with distilled water to remove metal salt ions remaining in

the water phase, then dehydrated and dried in vacuum, finally obtaining

resulting cosmetic powder.

Example 12

Glycerophospholipid at 2.0 parts by weight and 5,15-deacetyl-3-

benzoyllathyrol at 0.05 parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by

weight were dissolved in 100 m£ of distilled water, heated to 65^°C , and

dispersed for 3 minutes with a homogenizer. Stearic acid at 0.5 parts by

weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by weight were mixed in glycerin at

2.0 parts by weight and dissolved therein with heat of up to 70°C . Then, the

dissolved solution was dispersed in the water phase of the above

glycerophospholipid and 5,15-deacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol solution, heating

up to 75^°C , and passed through a microfludizer three times.

Barium sulfate at 95.45 parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100

parts by weight were put into 900 mϋ of distilled water, and sufficiently

dispersed and agitated together. Then, 10 mϋ of a 5% CaSO₄ solution was added to the aforementioned Barium sulfate mixture and agitated together

at a ambient temperature.

Next, the coating solution comprising NLE and lamella liquid crystal

which include glycerophospholipid, 5,15-deacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol, stearic

acid, and glycerin, which had been kept at the temperature of 70 ^°C , was

gradually added into barium sulfate, and slowly agitated together for 10

minutes so that NLE and lamella liquid crystal could be sufficiently absorbed

on the surface of the barium sulfate (BaSO₄). Then, the whole mixture

solution was set aside for a time until the sediment sank. After removing the

supernatant solution therefrom, the sediment waswashed twice with distilled

water to remove metal salt ions remaining in the water phase, then

dehydrated and dried in vacuum, finally obtaining the resulting cosmetic

powder.

Example 13

Polyoxyethylenecholesterylether at 3.0 parts by weight and

tripeptide at 1.0 part by weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by weight

were dissolved in 100 mi of distilled water, heated to 65⁰C , and dispersed

for 3 minutes with a homogenizer. Behenyl alcohol at 0.1 part by weight to

cosmetic powder at 100 parts by weight was mixed in hexylene glycol at 1.5

parts by weight and dissolved therein with heat of up to 70⁰C . Then, this

dissolved solution was dispersed in the water phase of the aforementioned

polyoxyethylenecholesterylether and tripeptide solution, while heating up to 75 "C .

Kaolin at 94.4 parts by weight to cosmetic powder at 100 parts by

weight were put into 900 rd of distilled water, and sufficiently dispersed and

agitated together. Then, 10 ml of a 5% Ab(SO₄J₃ solution was added to the

aforementioned kaolin mixture and agitated together at a ambient

temperature.

Next, the coating solution comprising NLE which included

polyoxyethylenecholesterylether, tripeptide, behenyl alcohol, and hexylene

glycol and lamella liquid crystal, which had been kept at the temperature of

70⁰C , was gradually added into kaolin mixture, and slowly agitated together

for 10 minute so that NLE and lamella liquid crystal could be sufficiently

absorbed on the surface of the kaolin. Then, the whole mixture solution was

set aside for a time until the sediment sank. After removing the supernatant

solution therefrom, the sediment was washed twice with distilled water to

remove metal salt ions remaining in the water phase, then dehydrated and

dried in vacuum, finally obtaining the cosmetic powder.

Experimental Example 1

The cosmetic powders prepared according to Examples 1 , 2, and 3

were observed at 100,000 times magnifications under a Scanning Electron

Microscope (SEM, Jeol, Japan). The pictures taken with the SEM are

illustrated in Figs. 2, 3, and 4.

As shown in Figs. 2 to 4, the cosmetic powder turned out clearly coated on its surface with about 10-30 nm of NLE particles as well as

lamella liquid crystals consecutively linked between NLE particles.

Experimental Example 2

The difference between cosmetic powder coated on the surface with

NLE containing vitamin E acetate and lamella liquid crystal (Example 4) and

talc before coating (Control) was measured by a DRIFT UV-VIS

spectrometer (JASCO, Japan), within the wavelength range of

200nm~900nm.

Fig. 5 is a graph illustrating the absorbance of vitamin E acetate

measured by a DRIFT UV-VIS spectrometer (JASCO, Japan), within the

wavelength range of 200nm~900nm. Fig. 6 is the DRIFT UV-VIS

spectrograph of cosmetic powder (Example 4) and talc before coating

(Control).

The absorption peak of vitamin E acetate itself was found in the

wavelength range of 210 nm to 285 nm (marked with a sign T), shown in

Fig. 5. However, the spectroscopic spectrum of talc before coating (Control)

was found at the bottom of Fig. 6. On the contrary, cosmetic powder coated

on the surface with NLE containing vitamin E acetate and lamella liquid

crystal (Example 4 ) was clearly found at the top of Fig. 6, proving the

existence of vitamin E acetate (marked with a sign T) in the wavelength

range of 210 nm to 285 nm.

Preparation Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 1. Preparation of cake-type foundation

Each cake-type foundation was prepared by compounding cosmetic

powder prepared according to the Example 4 with general talc in the

aforementioned method in the following weight ratios (unit: parts by weight)

given in Table 1.

Table 1

2. Evaluation of make-up effects

20 women of age 20 to 40 were impaneled to test and compare the

make-up effects of each cake-type foundation prepared according to

Preparation Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

The panel members were asked to apply each cake-type foundation

on both of their cheeks after basic care with skincare products, and to then

evaluate and compare skin compatibility, moisture, softness, agreeability of

use, natural lightening, adherence to skin, and durability. The measurement

scale used in this test was as follows: 5: very good, 4: good, 3: average, 2:

bad, 1 : very bad. Then, the mean of the 20 panel members was calculated

and is given in Table 2.

Table 2

As shown in Table 2, the cake-type foundation of Preparation

Example 1 of the present invention proved to have better properties than

those of Comparative Example 1 in every evaluation category.

Preparation Example 2 and Comparative Example 2

1. Preparation of liquid foundation

Each liquid foundation was prepared by combining cosmetic powder

prepared according to Examples 5 to 9 with the following components given

in Table 3 in the following weight ratios (unit: parts by weight), also given in

the same table, in the aforementioned method.

Table 3

2. Evaluation of make-up effects

20 women of age 20 to 40 were impaneled to test and compare the

make-up effects of each liquid foundation prepared according to Preparation

Example 2 and Comparative Example 2. The panel members were asked to apply each liquid foundation on

both of their cheeks after basic care of their skin with skincare products, and

then to evaluate and compare its skin compatibility, moisture, softness,

agreeability of use, natural lightening, adherence to skin, and durability. The

measurement scale used in this test was as follows: 5: very good, 4: good,

3: average, 2: bad, 1 : very bad. Then, the mean of the 20 panel members

was calculated and is given in Table 4.

Table 4

As shown in Table 4, the liquid foundation of Preparation Example 2

in the present invention proved to have better properties than that of

Comparative Example 2 in every evaluation category.

Preparation Example 3 and Comparative Example 3

1. Preparation of a lipstick

Each lipstick was prepared by combining cosmetic powder prepared

according to Examples 5 to 8 with the components given in the following

Table 5 in the weight ratio (unit: parts by weight) also given in the same table in the aforementioned method.

Table 5

2. Evaluation of make-up effects

20 women of age of 20 to 40 were impaneled to test and compare

the make-up effects of each lipstick prepared according to Preparation

Example 3 and Comparative Example 3.

The panel members were asked to separately apply each lipstick to

the left and right side of their lips after basic care of their skin with Skincare

products, and then to evaluate and compare its adherence to skin,

moisture/softness, and agreeability of use. The measurement scale used in

this test was as follows: 5: very good, 4: good, 3: average, 2: bad, 1 : very

bad. Then, the mean of the 20 panel members was calculated and is given

in the following Table 6.

Table 6

As shown in Table 6, the lipstick of Preparation Example 3 in the

present invention proved to have better properties than that of Comparative

Example 3 in every evaluation category.

Preparation Example 4 and Comparative Example 4

1. Preparation of mascara

Each mascara was prepared by combining cosmetic powder

prepared according to Examples 9 to 10 with the following components

given in Table 7 in the following weight ratio (unit: parts by weight) also

given in the same table in the aforementioned method.

Table 7

2. Evaluation of make-up effects

20 women of age 20 to 40 were impaneled to test and compare the

make-up effects of both of the mascaras prepared according to Preparation

Example 4 and Comparative Example 4.

The panel members were asked to separately apply mascara to the

eyelashes of each of their eyes, and then to evaluate and compare its

volume, applicability, and durability. The measurement scale used in this

test was as follows: 5: very good, 4: good, 3: average, 2: bad, 1 : very bad. Then, the mean of the 20 panel members was calculated and is given in the

following Table 8.

Table 8

As shown in Table 8, the mascara of Preparation Example 4 in the

present invention proved to have better properties than that of Comparative

Example 4 in every evaluation category.

The cosmetic powder of the present invention is characterized that

lamella liquid crystal in helping stabilize NLEs in water phase like water, can

be coated on the surface of the powder with NLE. Therefore, the present

invention can provide a cosmetic powder coated with NLE and lamella liquid

crystal not only endowing the same skin treatment effects with make-up

cosmetics as with skincare products due to the even emission of active

components belonging to NLE, but also contributing to obtaining a make-up

cosmetic composition high skin compatibility and low sensitivity of NLE and

lamella liquid crystal, and with excellent skin softness and moisture effects

due to the bound water combined in lamella liquid crystal. In addition, the present invention can provide a make-up cosmetic composition having an

excellent applicability and adherence to skin due to the matrix layer coated

on the surface of the powder.

While the present invention has been described in detail with

reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art will

appreciate that various modifications and substitutions can be made thereto

without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as set

forth in the appended claims.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. A cosmetic powder comprising:

powder, and

matrix layers coated on the surface of the powder,

wherein the matrix layers comprise nano-sized liposome and

emulsion (NLE) and lamella liquid crystal.

2. The cosmetic powder of claim 1 , wherein the nano-sized liposome

and emulsion (NLE), and lamella liquid crystal comprise a skin-active

material, self-assembly ampholytic material, higher alcohol or fatty acid, and

polyhydric alcohol.

3. The cosmetic powder of claim 1 , wherein a weight ratio of the

matrix layers and the powder is in the range of 0.5:99.5 to 30:70.

4. The cosmetic powder of claim 1 , wherein the powder is at least

one material selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite,

phlogopite, barium sulfate, kaolin, platy alumina, boron nitride, titanium

dioxide coated on mica, fluorine apatite, hydroxyapatite, magnesium

carbonate, calcium carbonate, titanium dioxide, iron oxide red, iron oxide

yellow, iron oxide black, and silica.

5. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein the skin active material

is at least one material selected the group consisting of collagen; hyaluronic

acid; sodium hyaluronate; arbutin; oil soluble extract of glycyrrhiza uralensis;

extract of Mori Cortex Radicis; vitamin A and a derivative thereof; vitamin B

and a derivative thereof; vitamin C and a derivative thereof; vitamin E and a

derivative thereof; nicotinamide and a derivative thereof; serina-4(14),7(11)-

diene-8-on(AT-1); 5,15-diacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol; tripeptide; resveratrol;

jasmonate; methyljasmonate; oligopeptide and a derivative thereof; and

polyphenol and a derivative thereof.

6. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein an amount of the skin

active material is in the range of 0.001 to 10 parts by weight with respect to

100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder.

7. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein the self-assembly

ampholytic material is at least one material selected from the group

consisting of an amino acid-based surfactant, a lecithin-based surfactant,

phospholipids, ceramide, and cholesterol.

8. The cosmetic powder of claim 7, wherein the amino acid-based

surfactant is at least one material selected from the group consisting of N-

acyl lysine salt wherein an alkyl group with 12 to 24 carbons is combined with lysine and one of hydrogen, sodium, and potassium is substituted in the

end of a carbonyl group; N-acyl glutamate wherein an alkyl group with 12

to 24 carbons is combined with glutamic acid and one of hydrogen, sodium,

and potassium is substituted in the end of a carbonyl group; and N-acyl

alaninate wherein an alkyl group with 12 to 24 carbons is combined with

alanine and one of hydrogen, sodium, and potassium is substituted in the

end of a carbonyl group.

9. The cosmetic powder of claim 7, wherein the lecithin-based

surfactant is at least one material selected from the group consisting of

hydrogenated yolk lecithin, hydrogenated soy bean lecithin, and synthetic

lecithin.

10. The cosmetic powder of claim 7, wherein the phospholipids is at

least one material selected from the group consisting of

glycerophospholipids, sphingolipids, sphingoglycolipid,

sphingophospholipids, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, and

phosphatidylmyelin.

11. The cosmetic powder of claim 7, wherein the ceramide is at least

one material selected from the group consisting of acyl ceramide, hydroxy

ceramide, and synthetic ceramide.

12. The cosmetic powder of claim 7, wherein the cholesterol is at

least one material selected from the group consisting of cholesterol,

cholesterol ester, and ethyleneoxide-added cholesterol with the added

ethyleneoxide mole number of 10 to 30.

13. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein an amount of the self-

assembly ampholytic material is advantageously in the range of 0.05 to 10

parts by weight with respect to 100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder.

14. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein the higher alcohol or

fatty acid is at least one material selected from the group consisting of

myristyl alcohol, lauroyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl

alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, lauric acid,

myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, and

behenic acid.

15. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein an amount of the

higher alcohol or fatty acid is in the range of 0.05 to 5 parts by weight with

respect to 100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder.

16. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein the polyhydric alcohol

is at least one material selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, 1 ,2-butyleneglycol, 1 ,3-butyleneglycol,

2,3-butyleneglycol, trimethyleneglycol, pentamethyleneglycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-

diol, hexyleneglycol, octyleneglycol, and glycerin.

17. The cosmetic powder of claim 2, wherein an amount of

polyhydric alcohol with respect to the cosmetic powder is in the range of 0.1

to 10 parts by weight with respect to100 parts by weight of cosmetic powder.

18. A method of preparing a cosmetic powder comprising:

a) preparing a dispersed solution by adding a water-dispersed

solution of self-assembly ampholytic material and a skin-active material into

higher alcohol or fatty acid, and polyhydric alcohol melted with heat;

b) preparing a coating solution by applying shear force to the

dispersed solution in the step a) while heating it

c) coating matrix layers to be absorbed on the surface of powder by

carefully adding a metal salt solution after dispersing powder in the coating

solution or by slowly adding the coating solution after adding a metal salt

solution into the water phase dispersed with powder; and

d) obtaining cosmetic powder coated with matrix layers by washing,

filtering, and drying the coated powder prepared in the previous step after

setting it aside for a time until the coated powder sinks down into sediment

and removing the supernatant solution therefrom.

19. The method of preparing a cosmetic powder of claim 18, wherein

the shearing in the step b) is performed while heating in the range of 60 to

90⁰C .

20. The method of preparing a cosmetic powder of claim 18, wherein

the shearing in the step b) is performed using a homogenizer or a sonicator.

21. The method of preparing a cosmetic powder of claim 18, further

comprising passing through a microfludizer after applying shear force.

22. The method of preparing a cosmetic powder of claim 18, wherein

the metal salt is at least one selected from the group consisting of

magnesium chloride (MgCb), magnesium sulfate (MgSO-O, ^z'nc chloride

(ZnCk), zinc sulfate (ZnSO₄), calcium chloride (CaCb), calcium sulfate

(CaSO₄), aluminum chloride (AICI₃), and aluminum sulfate (AI₂(SO₄)3).

23. The method of preparing a cosmetic powder of claim 18, wherein

an amount of the metal salt is in the range of 0.01 to 2 g with respect to 100

g of powder.

24. A make-up cosmetic composition comprising the cosmetic

powder of claim 1.

25. The make-up cosmetic composition of claim 24, comprising 0.1

to 30 parts by weight of cosmetic powder with respect to100 parts by weight

of a total make-up cosmetic composition.

26. The make-up cosmetic composition of claim 24, wherein the

composition is formulated in a form of powder foundations, emulsion type

foundations, a lip make-up, or eye make-up cosmetics.