KR102101885B1 - Method for preparing a powder composition enhancing formability - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition for makeup with improved moldability, and more specifically, to prepare a compressed powder composition with improved hardness while improving moldability by evaporating all of the used solvent after molding in a semi-wet state. It's about how.

Description

Method for preparing a powder composition enhancing formability

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition for makeup with improved moldability, and more specifically, to prepare a compressed powder composition with improved hardness while improving moldability by evaporating all of the used solvent after molding in a semi-wet state. It's about how.

Compressed powder forms the makeup cosmetics product line in the market such as powder pact and twin pact. Compressed powder, unlike powdered powder, requires stability in a molded state. That is, it is designed to withstand a certain physical impact or more in a compressed state because there should be no cracking due to external impact. In addition, unlike powdered powders, the amount of makeup tools, generally taken on puffs, should be constant, suitable for application, and designed to prevent powder from powdering when tapping compressed powder with puffs.

The general compressed powder composition designed in this way is a mixture of the cosmetic powder, which is the powder content, and a powder binder and an oil binder that aid in molding, and these components are crushed and compressed to form.

The oil binder is mainly used to increase the cohesiveness of the powder to help formability when compressing the powder, to prevent cracking against external impact, and to prevent the powder from flying when taking the compressed powder with a cosmetic tool. However, the use of an oil binder can reduce powderiness, but has the disadvantage of giving a heavy feeling when applied.

A wet molding method is a molding method intended to reduce the disadvantages of using such an oil binder. A slurry containing a volatile solvent is mixed with the powder content to form a slurry. After filling the contents of the slurry in a container, the solvent is extracted through compression and suction, and then dried to form a compressed powder. However, when a large amount of powder having a high oil absorption is contained, a large amount of binder is absorbed, and thus, when drying, the empty space in the powder particles increases, and the molded product shrinks after drying due to evaporation of the binder.

In general, compression moldability varies according to the type of powder, and also varies according to the type and size of the powder coating. The talc is plate-like and has no elasticity, and almost all types of talc can be molded. That is, talc that cannot be molded is only 10 µm or more. The reason that talc of 10 µm or more is poor in moldability is due to the size of the powder. The larger the size of the powder, the lower the compactness, so the moldability is poor. Therefore, talc of 10 µm or more is transparent and is good for use as a powder raw material, but the moldability of the compressed powder is poor, so it is limited to use.

Meanwhile, in order to improve the usability of the powder, a spherical powder or other plate-like powders such as mica and sericite may be included and used. However, mica and sericite have strong splitting in the shape of a plate, and because potassium ions impart elasticity between the plates, the powdering is severe, the drop stability is weak, or the moldability is poor. Further, in the case of spherical powders, nylon powder, PMMA powder and silica, compression molding is not possible. Therefore, in the case of a specific formulation, it is necessary to use spherical powder or mica as light quality and lightness are important quality factors, but in this case, it is difficult to realize molding stability, which is an important quality factor because of low hardness and poor formability. There is this.

Korean Patent Publication No. 2012-0119330

Thus, the present inventors do not have good moldability in the dry state of the powder, but when the powder is compressed and molded in a semi-wet state by using the wetness property, the moldability is improved while increasing the hardness. I discovered that it can.

Accordingly, the present invention aims to improve the molding stability of the compressed powder by molding in a semi-wet state.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is prepared by molding a powder composition made in a semi-wet state by adding a volatile solvent in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder composition, the compressed powder composition with improved hardness , And a method for manufacturing the same.

Compressed powder prepared according to the present invention is reduced in the amount of use of the oil binder is reduced when the application feeling is light, while the powderiness is reduced and the molding stability is improved to provide a product with improved usability.

The present invention improves the moldability even if the content of the oil binder is reduced by molding the powder in a semi-wet state, and the method for manufacturing the compressed powder cosmetic composition comprising the following steps: to provide:

1) grinding the powder contents;

2) adding the volatile solvent in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition to make the powder content semi-wet; And

3) Step of drying after molding.

Specifically, the compressed powder of the present invention is manufactured through the following process.

a) grinding

The compressed powder composition of the present invention is used by first crushing the powder content in which the cosmetic powder component and optionally the powder binder and / or oil binder are mixed.

Cosmetic powder used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used as a cosmetic powder in the cosmetic field, for example, at least one selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, nylon powder, iron oxide and pearl. Can be used. In addition, preferably, a powder coated with a polymer surface may be used, for example, HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer & Polymethyl Methacrylate, silica; softness It has high K value, which is easy to be pressed, whereas the recovery index (property to return to its shape after being pressed) is low, so it has good compression, good moldability), HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, silica (HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, silica) can be used. In the present invention, the powder is used in an amount of 60 to 95% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the powder content of the present invention may further use a powder binder and / or an oil binder. The powder binder is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in the cosmetic field, for example, acrylate-based polymers, stearate (aluminum, calcium, zinc, magnesium, etc.), acrylate-based polymers, ethylene / acrylic acid All powders classified as viscosity / hardness-increasing agents such as ethylene-based polymers including polymers and magnesium myristate can be used. Powder binder in the present invention is used in an amount of 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When used in less than 0.5% by weight, there is a powder blowing phenomenon, the effect of using a powder binder is insignificant, and when it exceeds 4% by weight, powder blowing improves and moldability increases, but a caking phenomenon occurs and the feeling of use becomes stiff, so it is formulated value. Will fall.

In addition, the oil binder is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in the cosmetic field, for example, hexyl laurate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisostearyl malate, butyl Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Triethylhexanoin, Dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, Capryl Ester-based oils such as Rick / Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, and Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate; Hydrocarbon-based oils such as polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and vegetable squalane; A mixture of one or two or more of silicone-based oils such as phenyl trimethicone and dimethicone may be used. In the present invention, the oil binder is used in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. When used in less than 1% by weight, there is a powder blowing phenomenon, the effect of using an oil binder is negligible, and when it exceeds 30% by weight, the surface gloss may be improved, but the formulation value is lowered due to caking phenomenon and stickiness. do.

b) Powder formation in semi-wet state

A volatile solvent is added to the pulverized powder content to make the powder content semi-wet.

The wet state is a state in which the powder becomes flowable when it exceeds the limit for absorption / absorption of the powder and contains more solvent than the absorption / absorption capacity. This is prepared by mixing the powder content and a binder containing a volatile solvent, but adding a binder until the powder content is in a slurry state. In the wet state, the binder is completely coated around the powder particles, so that a softer feeling of use can be expected compared to general molding. After filling a plate with a certain amount of the contents of the slurry in a wet state, the solvent is extracted through compression and suction, compressed, molded, and then dried. However, when a large amount of powder (for example, high oil absorption spheroid powder) is contained in a large amount, the binder is absorbed not only in the surface of the powder, but also in the empty space in the particle due to the porous structure of the powder, so that the general powder (talk, serie) Site), which absorbs more binders, thereby increasing the voids in the powder particles during drying, thereby limiting the hardness. In addition, there is also a disadvantage that the powder may shrink after molding by evaporating a large amount of binder.

A method to compensate for this is the semi-wet molding method. The semi-wet state is a state in which water / oil is contained by applying a solvent on the surface of the powder, and the dough is in an easy state, and when dry, it is hard, and after drying, clay is applied to a clay having a hard crystal. . The semi-wet molding method is a method in which the binder is used only in an amount that does not require a separate suction, that is, after adding moisture / oil to the extent that the powder can be aggregated, and then molding in a general powder molding method and then drying. . Since a small amount of the binder is added compared to the wet method, the shrinkage rate of the powder after molding is small and the hardness can be increased.

In the present invention, the volatile solvent is used in an amount in which the powder content is well kneaded in a dough state, and preferably used in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. do. If it is less than 5% by weight, it is not kneaded so that the powder is not well agglomerated. If it is more than 40% by weight, the powder is in a slush state more than the agglomeration, and rather is not kneaded, but becomes fluid. In addition, the content of the volatile solvent within the above range may be determined according to the type of powder used, and when a large amount of spherical powder with a high oil absorption is contained, a more volatile solvent may be included. On the other hand, a well-kneaded state is a limit line of a state that can be well kneaded and maintain its shape.

Further, the volatile solvent is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in the cosmetic field, for example, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, propylene glycol Cyclohexasiloxanes including alcohols such as propylene glycol, alcohols, cetyl alcohol, PEG-based alcohols, and hexyl alcohols, siloxane series, and trimethicone series Hydrocarbons such as (Cyclohexasiloxane), methyl trimethicone, octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, and isoparaffin Mixtures of one or two or more of silicone-based oils such as oils or alcohols may be used.

c) molding

After making it into a semi-wet state as above, the powder content is crushed again so that the volatile solvent is evenly mixed, and then the powder content is molded into a desired shape. The molding method is not particularly limited, and a general method used in the art may be used, for example, molding using a press machine.

According to the present invention, when a powder made in a semi-wet state using a solvent is molded, the powder is well agglomerated, thereby facilitating molding.

d) drying

By drying the powder after molding, the volatile solvent remaining in the powder contents is removed. Drying is performed at a temperature of 40 ° C to 70 ° C. When the temperature is less than 40 ° C, the drying efficiency decreases, and when it exceeds 70 ° C, the amount of volatile solvent rapidly increases, so that the balance between the surface and the inside is broken, resulting in powder blowing, which may adversely affect molding stability. .

As described above, when the used solvent is dried after molding, a compressed powder product having a light feeling of use can be obtained while maintaining the compressed form of the powder.

The compressed powder composition prepared according to the present invention has improved hardness than when molded by the use of an existing powder binder and / or an oil binder, and preferably produces a compressed powder composition having a hardness of 10 or more, preferably 30 or more. can do.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through Examples and Experimental Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto, and modifications, substitutions and insertions commonly known in the art may be performed, and the It is included in the scope of the present invention.

[Reference Example 1] Preparation of compressed powders of Examples 1 to 6

Compressed powders of Examples 1 to 6 were prepared with the composition shown in Table 1 below (content unit: wt%). Powder components including talc, sericite, silica or surface-treated silica, or calcium stearate were introduced into a Henschel mixer and uniformly mixed to prepare powder components. The volatile solvent was mixed with the powder component in an amount of 20% by weight, sprayed on the mixed powder contents and mixed once more uniformly. Example 1 is a coating treatment silica (HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, silica; Sunpu-170, Sunjin Chemical) of a commonly used method, and Example 2 is HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer & polymethyl It uses methacrylate and silica (EPU-2X, Sunjin Chemical). In addition, Examples 3 and 4 are prescribed by adjusting the raw material content of the silica used in Example 2. Example 5 used volatile silicone instead of ethanol, and Example 6 used uncoated silica.

After blending as described above, the contents made were press-molded, and then dried at about 50 ° C. for about 15 hours to volatilize the solvent contained in the cosmetic composition.

[Reference Example 2] Preparation of compressed powders of Comparative Examples 1 to 4

Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were prepared as follows (content unit: wt%). Powder components including talc, sericite, silica or surface-treated silica, or calcium stearate were introduced into a Henschel mixer and uniformly mixed to prepare powder components. The oils, which are binders commonly used in the mixer containing the powder component, were sprayed and mixed evenly once more. Comparative Example 1 does not contain any kind of binder or volatile solvent in the contents homogeneously mixed in a Henschel mixer, and Comparative Example 2 is HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer & polymethyl methacrylate, silica (EPU-) as a powder. 2X). In addition, Comparative Example 3 includes a powder binder, and Comparative Example 4 uses uncoated silica.

After mixing as described above, the contents were molded by press, and then dried at about 50 ° C for about 15 hours.

Example 1 Example 2 Example
3 Example
4 Example
5 Example
6 Comparative example
One Comparative example
2 Comparative example
3 Comparative example
4 SW-A (Talk) 50 50 60 30 50 50 70 60 58 60 Serisite S 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, silica 20 - - - - - 20 - - - HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer & polymethyl methacrylate, silica 20 10 40 20 - - 20 20 - Silica 20 20 EtOH 20 20 20 20 - 20 - - Calcium stearate 2 Cyclomethicone 20 Phenyl trimethicone 5.0 5.0 5.0 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 3.0 3.0 3.0 Distearyl Dimer Dilinoleate 2.0 2.0 2.0 all 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

-SW-A Talc: Asada Milling Co., Ltd. (Produce)

-Serisite S: Korean synthetic pearl

[Test Example 1] Evaluation of molding stability

The molding stability of the compressed powders of Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was evaluated. Specifically, the powder contents were molded into a dish using a general family molding method (compression through a molding machine), and then hardness was measured through a general rubber guided hardness tester (TECLOCK). The hardness was measured by the above method at 3 to 4 randomly selected points, and then an average value was obtained, and the measurement results are shown in Table 2 below.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example
5 Example
6 Comparative Example 1 Comparative example
2 Comparative example
3 Comparative example
4 Hardness 10 ~ 20 35 ~ 45 30 ~ 40 45 ~ 55 35 ~ 45 10 ~ 20 5 ~ 10 20 ~ 30 30 ~ 45 5 ~ 10 Powdered medium Ha medium Ha Ha medium Prize medium Ha Prize

<Floating index>

Phase: Powder is blown to the point where the molding collapses

Medium: moderately blown

Ha: Almost never

As shown in Table 2, in the case of Comparative Example 1, it was confirmed that the moldability was partially improved in the case of Example 1, which was molded after adding a volatile solvent, while molding was not carried out.

On the other hand, in the case of Example 2, which was replaced with a spherical powder having good moldability, EPU-2X, it was confirmed that the moldability was better, and powder blowing was also significantly reduced. In addition, it can be seen that as the content of EPU-2X increased, the moldability of the compressed powder became more excellent.

In addition, in the case of Comparative Example 2, which is a compressed powder prepared by using a powder binder and an oil binder, hardness and powderiness were decreased compared to Comparative Example 1, but hardness and powder were compared with Example 2 using the same amount of EPU-2X. Satisfactory results were not obtained in the degree of blowing.

[Test Example 2] Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetics by Panel

Table 3 after using the cosmetic compositions of Examples 2 to 5 and Comparative Example 3 measured to have a hardness of 30 or more in Test Example 1 in order to check the spreadability, uneven covering power, adhesion, moisture, and durability according to the present invention It was evaluated according to the criteria. The results are shown in Table 4 below as an average value.

Evaluation standard 5 Very good 4 Great 3 usually 2 Bad One Very bad

Item Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 3 Spreadability 4 3 5 4 2 Uneven covering power 4 3 5 4 3 Fit 3 3 3 3 4 An expressive expression 4 3 5 4 2 Transparent feeling 4 3 5 4 2 Moist 2 2 2 2 4 Persistence 4 4 4 4 3

Looking at Table 4, Comparative Example 3 was excellent in terms of adhesion and moistness, but was not good in spreadability and transparent use. On the other hand, in the case of the embodiment according to the present invention, the moisture is inferior to that of the comparative example, but it was found to be superior in spreadability, coverage, transparent feeling, and persistence, and in particular, in the case of Example 4 using a large amount of EPU-2X, spreadability and coverage , It was found to be very excellent in terms of transparent feeling.

Claims (8)

1) grinding the powder contents;
2) adding the volatile solvent in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder composition to make the powder content semi-wet; And
3) drying after molding;
It includes,
The powder content includes HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer & polymethyl methacrylate, silica, and does not include powder binder and oil binder.
Method for producing a compressed powder composition having a hardness of 30 or more. delete The method of claim 1, wherein the volatile solvent is ethanol, benzyl alcohol (benzyl alcohol), butyl alcohol (butyl alcohol), cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), propylene glycol (propylene glycol), cetyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol) , PEG-based alcohol, hexyl alcohol, cyclohexasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane And a method for preparing a compressed powder composition of at least one selected from the group consisting of isoparaffins. The method according to claim 1, wherein the powder is at least one selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, nylon powder, iron oxide and pearl. The method of claim 1, wherein the powder has a surface coated. delete The method of claim 1, wherein the drying is performed at a temperature of 40 ° C to 70 ° C. Claim 1, claim 3 to claim 5 and claim 7 comprising the HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer and polymethyl methacrylate, silica prepared by any one of the manufacturing method, the powder binder and the oil binder Compressed powder composition that does not contain a hardness of 30 or more.