WO2006028308A1 - Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using gelling agent - Google Patents

Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using gelling agent Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006028308A1
WO2006028308A1 PCT/KR2004/002311 KR2004002311W WO2006028308A1 WO 2006028308 A1 WO2006028308 A1 WO 2006028308A1 KR 2004002311 W KR2004002311 W KR 2004002311W WO 2006028308 A1 WO2006028308 A1 WO 2006028308A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
water
cosmetic composition
oil
oil emulsion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/KR2004/002311
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French (fr)
Inventor
Byeong-Gyu Park
Jong-Sub Han
Cheon-Koo Lee
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LG H&H Co Ltd
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LG Household and Health Care Ltd
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Priority to PCT/KR2004/002311 priority Critical patent/WO2006028308A1/en
Publication of WO2006028308A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006028308A1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion.
  • solid cosmetic materials may be mainly divided into three groups: a
  • powdery cosmetic material in which pigment is solidified as a major component by an
  • emulsion in which pigment is emulsified using oily components such as wax, and aqueous components.
  • the cosmetic material in the form of emulsion gives the clear and moist feeling that cannot be given by the aqueous phase-free powdery cosmetic material and the cosmetic material composed only of the oily components, and also has a natural makeup effect due to the light makeup.
  • the cosmetic composition in the form of emulsion is mainly classified into two types of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion is hydrophilic, and has an advantage of
  • the water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion shows an excellent cosmetic endurance and water resistance, but has a disadvantage of imposing a stress on the skin due to its sticky, oily and waxy feeling. Also, it has a disadvantage of giving
  • the bad feeling such as a pasting property, a spread property and others.
  • the cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including a large amount of volatile silicon oil is developed. Alike the cosmetic
  • water-in-oil emulsion including the volatile silicon oil has an advantage that its long-term stability is poor since its components are contracted due to volatilization of
  • composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion is easily spread on the skin in its early
  • the cosmetic composition also has a disadvantage that it is
  • the cosmetic material in the form of emulsion has a disadvantage of giving a poor appearance and much discomfort upon its use because the sweating
  • the present invention is designed to solve the problems of the prior art, and therefore it is an object of the present invention to provide solid cosmetic composition
  • the present invention provides solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including 0.1 to 2 % by
  • an inorganic gelling agent 0.1 to 6 % by weight of an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components including volatile oil, 1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsif ⁇ er, 10 to 50 % by weight of pigment components
  • component 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention may be clearly phase-changed from the solid phase to the liquid phase, and from the liquid phase to the powder because the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent are used together to form a gel-emulsion structure for the cosmetic
  • the feeling is significantly improved by minimizing a content of the wax since
  • the gel-emulsion structure such as a solid matrix structure.
  • the gel-emulsion structure such as a solid matrix structure.
  • the sweating phenomenon arises due to difference of volume expansivity between wax and oil by change temperature. That is to say, the reduced
  • present invention may be applied to various products such as lipstick, eyeshadow, powder foundation, stick foundation and others.
  • Fig. Ia is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test on a commercially available liquid foundation
  • Fig. 1 b is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test on a commercially available powder foundation
  • Fig. Ic is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test
  • Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a test result of measuring dynamic friction
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 0.1 to 2 % by weight of an inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6 % by weight of an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components included in volatile oil, 1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsifier, 10 to 50 % by weight of pigment components, and 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • present invention maintains the solid phase more easily by means of interaction of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent included in the solid cosmetic
  • the content of the wax included in the cosmetic composition may be
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention including both of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling
  • agent has the organic/inorganic gel-emulsion structure which functions as a buffer.
  • the inorganic gelling agent included in the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention has an excellent sheer thinning effect.
  • the inorganic gelling agent for example the gelable hydrophilic and/or oleophilic clay-based inorganic gelling agent such as quaternium-18
  • magnesium aluminum silicate, stearalkonium bentonite and others may be used alone or in combination thereof. Considering the overall physical properties and feeling of the
  • the inorganic gelling agent of the present invention has a content of 0.1 to 2 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The sheer thinning
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 0.1 to 6 % by weight of the organic gelling agent, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • organic gelling agent for example sorbitan olivate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid
  • glycol ester glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, solbide fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, dextrin fatty acid ester, cyclopentasiloxane (&)dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone (&)dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone (&)dimethicone/phenylvinylmethicone crosspolymer, isodecan (&)vinyldimethicone/lauryldimethicone crosspolymer and others may be used alone or in combination thereof.
  • cyclopentasiloxane &)dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer
  • dimethicone &
  • phenyl trimethicone &)dimethicone/phenylvinylmethicone crosspol
  • sorbitan olivate 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, solbide fatty acid ester and sorbitan fatty acid ester; and sorbitan olivate and stearic acid octadecyl are most preferred.
  • the organic gelling agent including metals such as stearic acid aluminum, stearic acid magnesium may be also included in the organic gelling agent.
  • present invention includes 0.1 to 6 % by weight of the organic gelling agent. It its content is less than 0.1 % by weight, the stability of the composition is relatively
  • the sweating phenomenon may arise due to change of the outer temperature (especially, at high temperature). If its content exceeds 6 % by
  • the lower amount of the organic gelling agent is used compared to the inorganic gelling agent, the more deteriorated the stability of the composition is.
  • the more amount of the organic gelling agent is used, the more deteriorated the feeling is. Accordingly, content ratio (a:b) of the organic gelling agent (a) and the
  • invention preferably ranges from 0.5:1 to 60:1 and more preferably from 3:1 to 15:1, considering the stability and the feeling of the composition.
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
  • squalene capryliccapric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, butyleneglycol dicaprylatecaprate, hexyl laurate, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, liquid-phase
  • lanoline olive oil, avocado oil, Jojoba oil, macadamia oil and others may be used as the oil.
  • composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention allows the cosmetic materials to facilitate the phase change from the liquid phase to the powder after its application. That is to say, the solid-phase cosmetic composition of the
  • present invention is phase-changed into the liquid phase during its application, and then
  • phase change from the liquid phase to the powder is facilitated as the aqueous
  • silicon-based oil may also be used as the non-volatile oil.
  • silicon-based oil may also be used as the non-volatile oil.
  • volatile oil and cyclomethicone, which is a volatile and raw material odor-free cyclic silicon 4-mer to 6mer, is most preferably used.
  • the content of the non-volatile oil is more preferably lower than that of the volatile oil in the oil components including the volatile oil.
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes wax.
  • the wax is generally used to solidify the cosmetic materials or give a luster.
  • Vegetable wax such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice wax and others; animal wax such as Bees wax, lanoline and others; mineral wax such as
  • microcrystalline wax polyethylene wax and others may be used for this purpose.
  • the wax used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably
  • ester-based wax which is solid at 25 ° C, for example cerecine wax or
  • Candelilla wax may be also used.
  • the wax preferably has a content of 1.5 to 10 % by weight. If the content of the wax is less than 1.5 % by weight, then a level of solidification is relatively lower, and if it exceeds 10 % by weight, the pasting property may be deteriorated and the sweating phenomenon may arise since it is difficult to undergo the
  • solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
  • the present invention includes 1 to 5 % by weight of the emulsifier, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the ionic or non-ionic surfactant generally used in the cosmetic materials may be used for the emulsifier.
  • an anionic surfactant such as higher alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, higher fatty acid amid sulfonate, alkyl benzene sulfonate, N-acyl glutaminate, higher fatty acid ester sulfonate and others
  • a cationic surfactant such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, dialkyldimethyl ammonium salt, alkyl pyridinium salt, alkyldimethyl benzyl ammonium salt, alkylamine salt, polyamine fatty acid derivatives, amyl alcohol fatty acid derivatives and others; a
  • positive surfactant such as imidazole-based positive surfactant, betain-based positive
  • non-ionic surfactant such as sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerine poly glycerine fatty acids, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, glycerine alkyl
  • silicone polyoxyethylene glycerine fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, tetra
  • polyoxyethylene tetra polyoxypropylene ethylene diamine condensate and others may be
  • Polyoxy alkylene-modified silicone or alkylpolyoxy alkylene-positively modified silicone is most preferred, considering the feeling, the emulsion stability and so on of the cosmetic composition.
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 10 to 50 % by weight, and preferably 15 to 30 % by weight of
  • Clay mineral powder such as titanium dioxide, particulate titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,
  • titanium dioxide/zinc oxide complex titanium dioxide/zinc oxide complex, alumina, talc, mica, kaolin, barium silicate, zeolite,
  • the pigment powder is more preferably hydrogenated.
  • the surface of the pigment powder is treated with high-viscosity silicone, treated by reacting alkyl hydrogen polysiloxane, treated with a cationic, anionic or non-ionic surfactant, or surface-coated with wax, may be used as the hydrogenation, but not
  • present invention includes 5 to 40 % by weight, and preferably 10 to 25 % by weight of
  • the aqueous component based on the total weight of the composition.
  • component is a major component that gives the clear and moist feeling to the cosmetic
  • composition of the present invention composition of the present invention.
  • Polyol-based moisturizing agents such as betain,
  • butyleneglycol, polydric alcohol, sugar-protein complex, organic acid, organic salts, glycerine and propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol and others may be used alone or in combination thereof together with water.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative examples 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of components and their contents as listed in the following Table 1.
  • materials 1-9 were heated to 80-85 ° C and dissolved, and then materials
  • liquid phase to the powder the pasting property, the powdery feeling, and the overall satisfaction index were evaluated according to the following evaluation.
  • composition according to the present invention has the excellent feeling such as the
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention is a stable composition in which the sweating phenomenon is inhibited at high temperature due to
  • Lipstick was prepared on the basis of components and their contents as listed in
  • materials 10-13 were added thereto and homogeneously dispersed to obtain lipstick.
  • the lipstick prepared in the Example 4 was evaluated for the feeling and
  • Fig. Ib the commercially available powder foundation
  • Fig. Ic the cosmetic
  • the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention has the excellent finishing effect of the makeup nearly identical to the commercially available powder foundation.
  • the dynamic friction coefficient was measured by an in vitro method using
  • a PE film was firstly adhered to a backlight plate, and then 2 mg/cm 2 of
  • the cosmetic composition was applied to a path in which a cylindric probe moves. Then, another PE film was also adhered to the cylindric probe. The dynamic friction coefficients were measured with a load cell by reciprocating the cylindric probe at a rate
  • Fig. 2 As shown in Fig. 2, it was revealed that, in the case A, the dynamic friction coefficient was constantly maintained with the passage of time from the beginning when the stress is increased, while, in the case B, the initial dynamic friction coefficient was measured high, but the dynamic friction coefficient was significantly lowered as the force is increased, and then constantly maintained. From the fact that the initial dynamic friction coefficients was significantly lowered due to the sheer thinning effect of the gelling agent, it was seen that the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid
  • emulsion according to the present invention may be useful to show an excellent stability

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Abstract

Disclosed is solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 0.1 to 2 % by weight of an inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6 % by weight of an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components including volatile oil, 1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsifier, 10 to 50 % by weight of pigment components and component 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components, based on the total weight of the composition. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion shows an excellent stability to a sweating phenomenon, as well as an excellent overall satisfaction index for the feeling such as a moist feeling and a very light pasting property due to the easy phase change from a solid phase to a liquid phase during its application, and a finishing effect of the powdery makeup due to the rapid phase change from the liquid phase to powder after its application.

Description

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF WATER-IN-OIL
EMULSION USING GELLING AGENT
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion.
BACKGROUND ART
Generally, solid cosmetic materials may be mainly divided into three groups: a
powdery cosmetic material in which pigment is solidified as a major component by an
oil binder; a solid-oily cosmetic material in which pigment is dispersed using the major
component such as wax and oily petroleum; and a solid cosmetic material in the form of
emulsion in which pigment is emulsified using oily components such as wax, and aqueous components. The cosmetic material in the form of emulsion gives the clear and moist feeling that cannot be given by the aqueous phase-free powdery cosmetic material and the cosmetic material composed only of the oily components, and also has a natural makeup effect due to the light makeup. There are many attempts to develop the cosmetic material in the form of emulsion due to the aforementioned advantage.
For example, there has been conducted many studies that silicon wax was used
to prevent hardness change due to the aging, or shape change due to the temperature change (Japan Patent Application No. 2002-220321); hydrogenated Jojoba oil was used to improve soft feeling (Japan Patent Application No. 2002-53425); or hydrogenated
sieves are used together with spherical powder having a compensation effect on unevenness of the skin and an giving the excellent feeling (Japan Patent Application No. 2000-327575).
However, it was revealed from the studies that a feeling property by the phase
change from a solid phase to a liquid phase and from a liquid phase to powder, which is intrinsic to the solid cosmetic material in the form of emulsion, was not observed upon application of the products. That is to say, since only the property of each material is
used and modified to improve the stability or the overall feeling of the product, a large amount of wax should be used to secure the stability, such as to prevent the liquid phase
and the oily phase being separated and to maintain a solid form temporarily, but using a
large amount of wax eventually makes the feeling bad. Especially, the product
including a large amount of wax has problems that the overall feeling is so bad upon its
application to the skin, and the finishing effect of the makeup is poor after its
application since the phase change into the solid phase, the liquid phase and the powder are not progressed clearly, respectively. Meanwhile, the cosmetic composition in the form of emulsion is mainly classified into two types of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. The oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion is hydrophilic, and has an advantage of
giving moist and soft feeling, but also a disadvantage that its chemical endurance and water resistance are deteriorated, and its long-term stability is poor since its components are contracted due to volatilization of the aqueous components when they are exposed to the air. In order to solve the disadvantage, an oleophilic type of the water-in-oil (W/O)
emulsion has been developed. The water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion shows an excellent cosmetic endurance and water resistance, but has a disadvantage of imposing a stress on the skin due to its sticky, oily and waxy feeling. Also, it has a disadvantage of giving
the bad feeling such as a pasting property, a spread property and others.
In order to improve the feeling of such cosmetic composition in the form of
water-in-oil emulsion, the cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including a large amount of volatile silicon oil is developed. Alike the cosmetic
materials in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition in the form of
water-in-oil emulsion including the volatile silicon oil, however, has an advantage that its long-term stability is poor since its components are contracted due to volatilization of
the volatile silicon oil when they are exposed to the air. Also, the cosmetic
composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion is easily spread on the skin in its early
application, but volatilization of the silicon oil makes the feeling so tight before the
makeup is finished. And, the cosmetic composition also has a disadvantage that it is
difficult to paste all the face evenly because it is phase-changed into powder in the
region applied formerly during its application. In order to increase the long-term stability of the solid water-in-oil cosmetic materials including such volatile silicon oil, there is developed a container whose airtightness itself is improved to prevent the volatile silicon oil from being evaporated, as described in Japan Patent Publication No. 2002-342. In addition, the method for inhibiting evaporation of the volatile silicon oil itself included in the cosmetic materials
was developed, but its effect was shown to be insufficient.
Meanwhile, the cosmetic material in the form of emulsion has a disadvantage of giving a poor appearance and much discomfort upon its use because the sweating
phenomenon, in which oil of its contents is extruded out to the surface or extruded together with colorants, is generated due to the outer temperature change.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
The present invention is designed to solve the problems of the prior art, and therefore it is an object of the present invention to provide solid cosmetic composition
in the form of water-in-oil emulsion which shows an excellent stability to a sweating
phenomenon, as well as an excellent overall satisfaction index for the feeling such as a moist feeling and a very light pasting property due to the easy phase change from a solid
phase to a liquid phase during its application, and a finishing effect of the powdery
makeup due to the rapid phase change from the liquid phase to powder after its application.
In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including 0.1 to 2 % by
weight of an inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6 % by weight of an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components including volatile oil, 1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsifϊer, 10 to 50 % by weight of pigment components
and component 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components, based on the total weight of the composition.
The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention may be clearly phase-changed from the solid phase to the liquid phase, and from the liquid phase to the powder because the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent are used together to form a gel-emulsion structure for the cosmetic
materials in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using oil, pigment component, aqueous component, emulsifier and others. That is to say, the solid cosmetic composition in the
form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention has advantages that it is
convenient to carry and use it since it has a solid appearance before its use, and it shows
excellent moisture and pasting properties since the gel-emulsion structure is scattered
into a liquid phase during its use, and an excellent makeup effect since the makeup is
finished to be powdery without oily feeling due to volatilization of aqueous components, oil and others after its use.
The feeling is significantly improved by minimizing a content of the wax since
the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present
invention has the gel-emulsion structure such as a solid matrix structure. In addition,
the sweating phenomenon, which functions to deteriorate the stability of the cosmetic
materials, may be reduced to a minimum level by minimizing the content of the wax
used in the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention since the sweating phenomenon arises due to difference of volume expansivity between wax and oil by change temperature. That is to say, the reduced
sweating phenomenon means that the stability is very excellent.
The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention may be applied to various products such as lipstick, eyeshadow, powder foundation, stick foundation and others.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of preferred embodiments of the present invention will be more fully described in the following detailed description, taken accompanying drawings. In the drawings:
Fig. Ia is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test on a commercially available liquid foundation;
Fig. 1 b is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test on a commercially available powder foundation;
Fig. Ic is a photograph showing a test result of evaluating a makeup transfer test
on solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present
invention; and
Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a test result of measuring dynamic friction
coefficients of the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of
the present invention and the conventional cosmetic composition.
BEST MODES FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
of the present invention will be described in detail.
The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 0.1 to 2 % by weight of an inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6 % by weight of an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components included in volatile oil, 1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsifier, 10 to 50 % by weight of pigment components, and 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components, based on the total weight of the composition.
Since the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention maintains the solid phase more easily by means of interaction of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling agent included in the solid cosmetic
composition, the content of the wax included in the cosmetic composition may be
reduced for the purpose of maintaining the solid phase. As a result, a sheer thinning
effect, which very advantageously affects the feeling, is more significantly improved,
which is advantageous to improve the feeling. Also, the sweating phenomenon that oil
is extruded out due to change of the temperature (mainly, at high temperature) may be lowered since the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention including both of the inorganic gelling agent and the organic gelling
agent has the organic/inorganic gel-emulsion structure which functions as a buffer.
Therefore, its entire stability is improved. Also, its excellent touch feel and good
visual effect may be appealed to the consumers since the phase change from the solid
phase to the liquid phase is remarkably progressed by the organic/inorganic
gel-emulsion structure, as described above.
Preferably, the inorganic gelling agent included in the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention has an excellent sheer thinning effect. As the inorganic gelling agent, for example the gelable hydrophilic and/or oleophilic clay-based inorganic gelling agent such as quaternium-18
hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite,
magnesium aluminum silicate, stearalkonium bentonite and others may be used alone or in combination thereof. Considering the overall physical properties and feeling of the
cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is more preferred to use quaternium-18 hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite and quaternium-18 bentonite; and quaternium-18 hectorite and bentonite are most preferred. Preferably, the inorganic gelling agent of the present invention has a content of 0.1 to 2 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The sheer thinning
effect is relatively low if its content is less than 0.1 % by weight. That is to say, the
phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase is not relatively clearly progressed
upon its use, resulting in deterioration of the pasting property. If its content exceeds
2 % by weight, then fluidity is relatively reduced in manufacturing the cosmetic composition.
Also, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 0.1 to 6 % by weight of the organic gelling agent, based on the total weight of the composition.
As the organic gelling agent, for example sorbitan olivate, 12-hydroxy stearic
acid, hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene
glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, solbide fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, dextrin fatty acid ester, cyclopentasiloxane (&)dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone (&)dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone (&)dimethicone/phenylvinylmethicone crosspolymer, isodecan (&)vinyldimethicone/lauryldimethicone crosspolymer and others may be used alone or in combination thereof. Considering the overall physical properties and feeling of the
cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is more preferred to use sorbitan olivate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, solbide fatty acid ester and sorbitan fatty acid ester; and sorbitan olivate and stearic acid octadecyl are most preferred. The organic gelling agent including metals such as stearic acid aluminum, stearic acid magnesium may be also included in the organic gelling agent.
The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention includes 0.1 to 6 % by weight of the organic gelling agent. It its content is less than 0.1 % by weight, the stability of the composition is relatively
deteriorated. That is to say, the sweating phenomenon may arise due to change of the outer temperature (especially, at high temperature). If its content exceeds 6 % by
weight, a level of solidification is relatively strong. As s result, it is difficult to
undergo the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase, and therefore the pasting property is deteriorated when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.
For the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention, the lower amount of the organic gelling agent is used compared to the inorganic gelling agent, the more deteriorated the stability of the composition is. In the other hand, the more amount of the organic gelling agent is used, the more deteriorated the feeling is. Accordingly, content ratio (a:b) of the organic gelling agent (a) and the
inorganic gelling agent (b) included in the cosmetic composition of the present
invention preferably ranges from 0.5:1 to 60:1 and more preferably from 3:1 to 15:1, considering the stability and the feeling of the composition.
Meanwhile, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
of the present invention includes 10 to 60 % by weight of the oil components with the volatile oils, based on the total weight of the composition. Cetylethylhexanoate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, isocetylethylhexanoate, disstearylmalate, triethylhexanoin,
squalene, capryliccapric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, butyleneglycol dicaprylatecaprate, hexyl laurate, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, liquid-phase
lanoline, olive oil, avocado oil, Jojoba oil, macadamia oil and others may be used as the oil.
The volatile oil in the oil components included in the solid cosmetic
composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention allows the cosmetic materials to facilitate the phase change from the liquid phase to the powder after its application. That is to say, the solid-phase cosmetic composition of the
present invention is phase-changed into the liquid phase during its application, and then
the phase change from the liquid phase to the powder is facilitated as the aqueous
components and the volatile oils are volatilized rapidly. The facilitated phase change is advantageous since the additional finishing makeup such as powder, pact and others
are required. Accordingly, it is preferred to use the volatile oil alone, or in
combination with the non-volatile oil. And silicon-based oil may also be used as the
volatile oil, and cyclomethicone, which is a volatile and raw material odor-free cyclic silicon 4-mer to 6mer, is most preferably used.
The content of the non-volatile oil is more preferably lower than that of the volatile oil in the oil components including the volatile oil. The phase change from the
aforementioned liquid phase to the powder is relatively slow if the content of the non-volatile oil is higher than that of the volatile oil. Therefore, the feeling such as a powdery feeling is deteriorated.
Also, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes wax. The wax is generally used to solidify the cosmetic materials or give a luster. Vegetable wax such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice wax and others; animal wax such as Bees wax, lanoline and others; mineral wax such as
ozokerite, cerecine wax and others; and petroleum wax such as paraffin wax,
microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax and others may be used for this purpose.
The wax used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably
at least one ester-based wax which is solid at 25 °C, for example cerecine wax or
Candelilla wax may be also used.
In the solid cosmetic materials composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
of the present invention, the wax preferably has a content of 1.5 to 10 % by weight. If the content of the wax is less than 1.5 % by weight, then a level of solidification is relatively lower, and if it exceeds 10 % by weight, the pasting property may be deteriorated and the sweating phenomenon may arise since it is difficult to undergo the
phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase.
Also, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention includes 1 to 5 % by weight of the emulsifier, based on the total weight of the composition. The ionic or non-ionic surfactant generally used in the cosmetic materials may be used for the emulsifier. For example, an anionic surfactant such as higher alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, higher fatty acid amid sulfonate, alkyl benzene sulfonate, N-acyl glutaminate, higher fatty acid ester sulfonate and others; a cationic surfactant such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, dialkyldimethyl ammonium salt, alkyl pyridinium salt, alkyldimethyl benzyl ammonium salt, alkylamine salt, polyamine fatty acid derivatives, amyl alcohol fatty acid derivatives and others; a
positive surfactant such as imidazole-based positive surfactant, betain-based positive
surfactant and others; and a non-ionic surfactant such as sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerine poly glycerine fatty acids, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, glycerine alkyl
ether, polyoxy alkylene-modified silicone, alkylpolyoxy alkylene-positively modified
silicone, polyoxyethylene glycerine fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, tetra
polyoxyethylene tetra polyoxypropylene ethylene diamine condensate and others may be
used, but not limited thereto.
Polyoxy alkylene-modified silicone or alkylpolyoxy alkylene-positively modified silicone is most preferred, considering the feeling, the emulsion stability and so on of the cosmetic composition.
Also, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention includes 10 to 50 % by weight, and preferably 15 to 30 % by weight of
the pigment components, based on the total weight of the composition. Clay mineral powder such as titanium dioxide, particulate titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,
titanium dioxide/zinc oxide complex, alumina, talc, mica, kaolin, barium silicate, zeolite,
Muscovite, synthetic mica, magnesium carbonate and others; inorganic pigment such as
barium sulfate, iron titanate, titanium oxide-coated mica and others; and organic powder such as polystyrenepowder, polymethylmethacrylate powder, polyethylene powder, nylon powder, silicone powder and others may be used as the pigment components, but not limited thereto.
The pigment powder is more preferably hydrogenated. Various methods, in
which the surface of the pigment powder is treated with high-viscosity silicone, treated by reacting alkyl hydrogen polysiloxane, treated with a cationic, anionic or non-ionic surfactant, or surface-coated with wax, may be used as the hydrogenation, but not
limited thereto. Also, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the
present invention includes 5 to 40 % by weight, and preferably 10 to 25 % by weight of
the aqueous component, based on the total weight of the composition. The aqueous
component is a major component that gives the clear and moist feeling to the cosmetic
composition of the present invention. Polyol-based moisturizing agents such as betain,
butyleneglycol, polydric alcohol, sugar-protein complex, organic acid, organic salts, glycerine and propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol and others may be used alone or in combination thereof together with water.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail referring to
Examples and Comparative examples. However, it should be understood that other
equivalents and modifications of the Examples according to the present invention could
be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, but not
intended to limit the scope of the invention.
Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative examples 1 to 3
Compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative examples 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of components and their contents as listed in the following Table 1.
That is to say, materials 1-9 were heated to 80-85 °C and dissolved, and then materials
14-19, which are pigment components, were added thereto and emulsified, based on the
contents listed in the following Table 1. Materials 10-13 were then added thereto and
dispersed homogeneously. And then, the resultant mixture was defoamed, and then mixed with a material 20 and dissolved homogeneously. The resultant mixture was then filled into a molder, and cooled at room temperature to obtain solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion. Table 1
Figure imgf000015_0001
** PA: Proper amount
Hereinafter, the overall feeling and the stability were evaluated for the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion obtained in Examples 1 to 3
and Comparative examples 1 to 3. For evaluation of the stability, the sweating phenomenon by the temperature change was measured. Evaluation of Feeling
50 women aged 25-45 years old was divided into two groups. The cosmetic compositions prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative examples 1 to 3 were
distributed to each group, and applied to women's faces on both sides. And then, the
visual effect on the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid phase or from the
liquid phase to the powder, the pasting property, the powdery feeling, and the overall satisfaction index were evaluated according to the following evaluation.
The results measured for the aforementioned properties are presented as follows:
"Very good (©)" if at least 24 women decide that the feeling is excellent; "Good (O)"
if 18-23 women decide that the feeling is excellent; "Not good (Δ)" if 10-17 women
decide that the feeling is excellent; and "Bad (x)" if at most 10 women decide that the feeling is excellent.
Table 2
Example Comparative example
Item
1
Visual effect on
Δ Δ phase change
Pasting property X
Powdery feeling o O Δ Δ
Satisfaction index Δ As seen in the result of the Table 2, it was revealed that the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention has the excellent feeling such as the
visual effect on the phase change, the pasting property, the powdery feeling and the
overall satisfaction, compared to the Comparative examples.
Evaluation on generation of sweating phenomenon
In order to evaluate a level of a sweating phenomenon of the solid water-in-oil cosmetic compositions prepared according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative examples 1 to 3, the sweating phenomenon was observed for 24 hours under the
temperature conditions as listed in the following Table 3, and then evaluated in
accordance with the following standard of visual evaluations.
The sweating phenomenon was evaluated as follows: : "Very good (©)" if there
is no change in the skin surface; "Good (O)" if a light luster appears in the skin surface;
"Bad (Δ)" if fine oil is observed in the skin surface; and "Very bad (x)" if the skin
surface is covered with oil. Table 3
Example Comparative example
Item
1
50 °C o X X
45 °C o X X
37 °C Δ Δ
Room temperature O O
As seen from the result in the Table 3, it was confirmed that the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention is a stable composition in which the sweating phenomenon is inhibited at high temperature due to
the gelling effect of the inorganic and organic gelling agents. Example 4
Lipstick was prepared on the basis of components and their contents as listed in
the following Table 4. Materials 1-10 were homogeneously dissolved at 75-80°C .
Then, materials 10-13 were added thereto and homogeneously dispersed to obtain lipstick.
Table 4
Figure imgf000018_0001
The lipstick prepared in the Example 4 was evaluated for the feeling and
stability in accordance with the above-mentioned method. As a result, it was confirmed that the lipstick prepared according to the present invention has the excellent stability and the excellent feeling without causing the sweating phenomenon. Cosmetic transfer test
A finishing effect of the makeup was compared and measured by evaluating a
level of the cosmetic transfer of the commercially available liquid foundation and the commercially available powder foundation (LANCOME™, France), and the solid
cosmetic materials in the form of water-in-oil emulsion. The cosmetic transfer test was
conducted as follows. Samples were evenly applied on the skin, and then makeup region was covered with a tissue and the skin was pressured three times for 10 seconds
with 30gf/cm2 of a plumb. And then, the value difference (Δ L) was calculated by
measuring a level of the cosmetic materials transferred to the tissue using a color meter.
The results are photographed in Fig. Ia (the commercially available liquid foundation),
Fig. Ib (the commercially available powder foundation) and Fig. Ic (the cosmetic
composition prepared according to the present invention), respectively. The calculated value difference is listed in the following Table 5. Table 5
Figure imgf000019_0001
As listed in Table 5, the makeup transfer was compared using the value
difference (Δ L). As s result, it was shown that the solid cosmetic materials in the
form of water-in-oil emulsion have the very low value difference. It is meant that the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention has the excellent finishing effect of the makeup nearly identical to the commercially available powder foundation.
Measurement of Dynamic Friction Coefficient
The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion (B) of the
present invention prepared in the Example 1 , and the cosmetic composition (A) devoid
of the gelling agent prepared in the Comparative example 1 was measured for the dynamic friction coefficients.
The dynamic friction coefficient was measured by an in vitro method using
Vitrodyne. A PE film was firstly adhered to a backlight plate, and then 2 mg/cm2 of
the cosmetic composition was applied to a path in which a cylindric probe moves. Then, another PE film was also adhered to the cylindric probe. The dynamic friction coefficients were measured with a load cell by reciprocating the cylindric probe at a rate
of 3.5cm/s for 15 minutes. The force (150gf) pressed by the plumb was constantly
maintained during measurement of the dynamic friction coefficients. The result was
shown in Fig. 2. As shown in Fig. 2, it was revealed that, in the case A, the dynamic friction coefficient was constantly maintained with the passage of time from the beginning when the stress is increased, while, in the case B, the initial dynamic friction coefficient was measured high, but the dynamic friction coefficient was significantly lowered as the force is increased, and then constantly maintained. From the fact that the initial dynamic friction coefficients was significantly lowered due to the sheer thinning effect of the gelling agent, it was seen that the phase change from the solid phase to the liquid
phase was apparently progressed. INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY As described above, the solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil
emulsion according to the present invention may be useful to show an excellent stability
to a sweating phenomenon, and as an excellent overall satisfaction index for the feeling
such as a moist feeling and a very light pasting property due to the easy phase change
from a solid phase to a liquid phase during its application, and a finishing effect of the powdery makeup due to the rapid phase change from the liquid phase to powder after its
application, since it may form the inorganic/organic gel-emulsion structure.

Claims

What is claimed is:
1. Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion,
comprising 0.1 to 2 % by weight of an inorganic gelling agent, 0.1 to 6 % by weight of
an organic gelling agent, 10 to 60 % by weight of oil components including volatile oil,
1.5 to 10 % by weight of wax, 1 to 5 % by weight of an emulsifier, 10 to 50 % by
weight of pigment components, and 5 to 40 % by weight of aqueous components, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion according to the claim 1 ,
wherein content ratio (a:b) of the organic gelling agent (a) : the inorganic gelling
agent (b) ranges from 0.5 : 1 to 60 : 1.
3. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion according to the claim 1, wherein the inorganic gelling agent includes at least one selected from the group consisting of quaternium-18 hectorite, montmorillonite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite
and quaternium-18 bentonite.
4. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
according to the claim 1 , wherein the organic gelling agent includes at least one selected from the group consisting of sorbitan olivate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, stearic
acid octadecyl, ethylene glycol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, solbide fatty acid ester and sorbitan fatty acid ester.
5. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the claims 1 to 4,
wherein the oil components have lower content of the non-volatile oil than that of the volatile oil.
6. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion
according to any of the claims 1 to 4, wherein the wax is at least one ester-based wax in
the solid form at 25 °C .
7. The solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the claims 1 to 4, wherein the pigment components are hydrotreated.
PCT/KR2004/002311 2004-09-10 2004-09-10 Solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion using gelling agent Ceased WO2006028308A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

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Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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TWI693945B (en) * 2015-08-03 2020-05-21 日商資生堂股份有限公司 Water-in-oil emulsion solid cosmetic
US20200214948A1 (en) * 2018-02-07 2020-07-09 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Solid w/o cosmetic composition
WO2022270398A1 (en) * 2021-06-22 2022-12-29 株式会社 資生堂 Water-in-oil type emulsified solid cosmetic material
FR3147100A1 (en) * 2023-04-03 2024-10-04 Aycosmetic Conseil Oily phase comprising at least one UV filter
CN120694915A (en) * 2025-08-29 2025-09-26 山东新华莎罗雅生物技术有限公司 Skin-protection hand disinfectant and preparation method thereof

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US5948393A (en) * 1992-11-30 1999-09-07 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Make-up cosmetic composition
US5552136A (en) * 1994-05-25 1996-09-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Gel stick compositions comprising optically enriched gellants
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TWI693945B (en) * 2015-08-03 2020-05-21 日商資生堂股份有限公司 Water-in-oil emulsion solid cosmetic
US20200214948A1 (en) * 2018-02-07 2020-07-09 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Solid w/o cosmetic composition
US12220469B2 (en) * 2018-02-07 2025-02-11 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Solid W/O cosmetic composition
WO2022270398A1 (en) * 2021-06-22 2022-12-29 株式会社 資生堂 Water-in-oil type emulsified solid cosmetic material
FR3147100A1 (en) * 2023-04-03 2024-10-04 Aycosmetic Conseil Oily phase comprising at least one UV filter
CN120694915A (en) * 2025-08-29 2025-09-26 山东新华莎罗雅生物技术有限公司 Skin-protection hand disinfectant and preparation method thereof

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