WO2006013412A1 - Composition cosmétique comportant une cire polaire et un trisiloxane alkyle - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comportant une cire polaire et un trisiloxane alkyle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006013412A1
WO2006013412A1 PCT/IB2005/002020 IB2005002020W WO2006013412A1 WO 2006013412 A1 WO2006013412 A1 WO 2006013412A1 IB 2005002020 W IB2005002020 W IB 2005002020W WO 2006013412 A1 WO2006013412 A1 WO 2006013412A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
volatile
wax
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PCT/IB2005/002020
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English (en)
Inventor
Pascal Arnaud
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR0451691A external-priority patent/FR2873582B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2006013412A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006013412A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/027—Fibers; Fibrils
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising an apolar wax and an alkyltrisiloxane
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up especially the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising at least one apolar wax and at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil.
  • the compositions according to the invention may constitute a makeup product for the face, the body and/or the lips especially having nontherapeutic care and/or treatment properties.
  • these products simultaneously contain waxy compounds and oily volatile compounds. It is known that the waxy compounds generally serve to obtain a suitable consistency and that the oily volatile compounds are often used to adjust the hold properties, in particular of makeup and/or of texture, especially during the application of the product.
  • waxy compounds conventionally used, mention may be made of apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, and in particular polyethylene waxes in the field of lipsticks and foundations, especially in stick form.
  • the oily volatile compounds generally used in cosmetic products are especially cyclic silicones and hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular isododecane, which especially give a pleasant feel and good staying power.
  • Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms often have a tendency to limit the crystallization of waxes, in particular apolar waxes, especially on account of their very high affinity for said waxes. This may result in stability problems and also a loss of the desired mechanical properties, in particular in the case of lipsticks or foundations.
  • isododecane it is common for isododecane to at least partially "destructure" apolar waxes, which may result in softening and problems of stability and/or storage of the cosmetic product.
  • Document FR 2 749 505 describes a transfer-resistant makeup or care composition, which is especially anhydrous and in stick form, containing alkyl siloxanes with a chain length (R) of between 3 and 10 carbons.
  • Document FR 2 757 380 describes a makeup or care composition containing a combination of a silicone elastomer with a fatty phase.
  • Document JP 03-264 510 describes a cosmetic composition comprising a particular mixture of three types of siloxane.
  • WO 03/042221 describes the use of certain volatile linear alkylsiloxanes as volatile compounds in a cosmetic composition.
  • US 6 350 440 discloses a mixture of linear organosiloxanes with a particular evaporation profile. None of the documents discloses a composition containing the combination of at least one apolar wax with at least one volatile alkylsiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) defined below, especially with an alkyl group R containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the inventors have thus discovered that the specific combination of at least one particular volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil with at least one apolar wax makes it possible to obtain compositions for which the stability and/or storage properties of the cosmetic product are improved.
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one apolar wax and at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • R represents an alkyl group containing 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of a mixture of at least one apolar wax and of at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below: (I)
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising at least the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers.
  • volatile oil means an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 '3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mmHg).
  • the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I) covers the case in which it is a mixture of several oils of formula (I).
  • apolar wax covers the case in which it is a mixture of several apolar waxes.
  • keratin fibers especially means the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
  • skin makeup especially covers makeup for the body, the hands, the neck or the face. Volatile alkyl silicones
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I).
  • volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) mention may be made of:
  • R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
  • R may be linear or branched. For example, it may be an n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl or n-pentyl group.
  • the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) may be prepared according to known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which
  • R represents an ethyl group. According. to one aspect of the invention, this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents a butyl group.
  • this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I) other than 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents an ethyl group and of a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents a butyl group.
  • this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, especially from 1% to 65% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to its total weight.
  • Apolar wax m the context of the present invention, a wax may be defined as being solid at room temperature (25 0 C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, as having a melting point of greater than 30°C, which may be up to 200°C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and as having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
  • apolar wax means waxes consisting solely of molecules comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, in other words comprising no hetero atoms.
  • paraffin waxes examples include paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, ceresin and synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene wax, propylene wax and ethylene/propylene copolymers thereof, or alternatively Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the synthetic apolar waxes are most particularly suitable.
  • the apolar wax(es) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, especially from 3% to 30% by weight and in particular from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • - synthetic apolar waxes polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes
  • - synthetic apolar waxes polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes
  • 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane as a mixture with 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-hepta- methyltrisiloxane.
  • compositions comprising these combinations obviously form part of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention may be in liquid, pasty, solid, mousse or spray form. It may be an emulsion, especially a direct or inverse emulsion, or alternatively an anhydrous composition. It may also be in a two-phase form.
  • the composition according to the invention may be used for making up and/or caring for human skin, lips and/or keratin fibers.
  • the composition thus finds a particular application as a body or facial care composition; a body or facial cleansing composition such as a shower gel, a bath gel or a makeup remover; a body or facial makeup composition such as a foundation, a lipstick, a lipcare product, a nail varnish, a nailcare product, a mascara or an eyeliner; a fragrancing composition; a hair composition such as a hair dye composition or a composition for permanently reshaping the hair; an antisun composition; a deodorant composition; a hair cleansing or haircare composition such as a shampoo or a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, a rinse-out composition to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving or relaxing the hair, or alternatively between the two steps of a permanent-waving or hair-relaxing operation; a hair composition for holding the hairstyle, such as a
  • the composition is in the form of lipsticks or complexion products, especially such as a foundation, or of a mascara.
  • the composition according to the invention may be applied uniformly or nonuniformly to the surface of the eyelashes, as a single coat or in the form of several superimposed coats.
  • the composition according to the invention may then be more particularly intended for a mascara product comprising a reservoir, containing at least said mascara composition, and a system for applying said composition to keratin fibers, for instance the eyelashes.
  • this composition is in the form of a product cast as a stick or a dish, for instance lipsticks or lip balms, cast foundations, concealer products, complexion "correctors” and/or “enhancers” and eyeshadows or makeup rouges.
  • the term "cast composition” is intended to mean any cosmetic composition not having the capacity to flow under the action of its own weight, as opposed to “fluid” compositions.
  • compositions may, where appropriate, have a pasty appearance at room temperature (25°C).
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a melting point or a thermal transition temperature such as a softening point of greater than 25°C, which may especially range from 25 to 85°C, or even from 30 to 60°C and in particular from 30 to 45°C, and/or a hardness that may range from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa and especially from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.
  • compositions according to this preferred aspect of the invention i.e. of cast type, have improved hardnesses, especially when they are in stick form. This advantage is especially noted when the isododecane is at least partially, or even totally, replaced with a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I).
  • Example 1 especially illustrates this improvement in hardness in the case of replacement of isododecane with l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-ethyltrisiloxane.
  • physiologically acceptable medium denotes a nontoxic medium that may be applied to the skin, especially of the body, the hands, the neck or the face, the lips and/or keratin fibers, of human beings.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied and also to the aspect in which the composition is intended to be packaged.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one volatile oil not in accordance with formula (I).
  • cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils or volatile nonsilicone oils, chosen especially from hydrocarbon-based or fluoro volatile oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils mention may be made especially of those with a viscosity ⁇ 6 centistokes (6xlO ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 or 2 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta- methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl- trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the noncyclic volatile silicone oils may also be chosen from linear or branched volatile silicone oils.
  • the cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils not in accordance with formula (I) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 79.9% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 64% by weight and in particular ranging from 0.1% to 49% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for instance isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® and Permethyl ® , and branched C 8 -C 16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillate, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt ® by the company Shell, may be used.
  • the nonsilicone volatile oil and in particular the hydrocarbon-based oil, may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 79.9% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 64% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 49% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the volatile oil(s) not in accordance with formula (I) may be present in a content of less than or equal to 79.9% by weight, especially 64% by weight and in particular 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the latter case, it may be said that the composition is free of volatile oil not in accordance with formula (I).
  • the composition comprises only one or more volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil(s) of formula (I) as volatile oil(s).
  • the composition of the present invention is free of cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils not in accordance with formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of these cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of cyclic volatile silicone oil, especially octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular octamethylcyclotetra ⁇ siloxane, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of such cyclic silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of nonsilicone volatile oils, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of these nonsilicone volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the mixture of volatile oils, or volatile fatty phase, in the composition according to the invention has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil(s) evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 1.7 to 370 mg/cm 2 , especially from 2 to 70 mg/cm 2 and in particular from 2 to 30 mg/cm 2 .
  • the evaporation profile is measured according to the following protocol: 15 g of oil or of the mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystal ⁇ lizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance located in a chamber of about 0.3 m 3 with a regulated temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity).
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, ventilation being provided by means of a ventilator (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, operating at 2700 rpm) arranged vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the solvent, the vanes being directed toward the crystallizing dish and 20 cm away from the base of the crystallizing dish.
  • a ventilator Paperst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, operating at 2700 rpm
  • the mass of oil(s) remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals, and in particular every 30 minutes.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed as mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm ) and per unit of time (minutes).
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • This nonvolatile oil may in particular be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils.
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, and more generally on the keratin material, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10- 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil,
  • oils of animal origin for instance mink oil, turtle oil or perhydrosqualene
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; - synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl
  • esters for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and
  • esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate;
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
  • . - C 8 -C 26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
  • the nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl- siloxysilicates.
  • PDMS nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms
  • the composition is free of nonvolatile oil, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of nonvolatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nonvolatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, especially ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight and in particular ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise, in particular when it is a lipstick or a foundation, in addition to the apolar wax, at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, which may be chosen from polar waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums, and mixtures thereof.
  • This solid fatty substance may be present in a content varying from 0.01% to 60%, especially from 0.1% to 50% and in particular from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty substance that is pasty at room temperature.
  • the term "pasty fatty substance” means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 0 C and preferably 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises) and preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
  • a person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement on the pasty compound tested.
  • these fatty substances can be hydrocarbon-based compounds optionally of polymeric type; they may also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone compounds, hi the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups) are preferably used, in majority proportion.
  • hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups
  • lanolins and lanolin derivatives for instance acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, with a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s and preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point of from 30 to 55 0 C, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used, for instance triisostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, for instance triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • Triglycerides of plant origin include hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as "Thixinr ® " from Rheox.
  • silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those with pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • stearyl dimethicones especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty fatty substance may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polar wax.
  • polar wax means a wax comprising in its composition molecules whose chemical structure contains one or more hetero atoms. This may be a hydrocarbon- based, fluoro and/or silicone wax and may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. It may be chosen, for example, from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar wax may be present in the form of a wax(es)-in-water emulsion.
  • the polar wax may then be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 30% by weight and especially from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water.
  • the water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as eau de Vittel, eau de Lucas or eau de La Roche Posay and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are water-miscible
  • primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and C 1 to C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or of mono-, di- or
  • Methylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may be an anhydrous composition, i.e. a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise, in particular when it is a lipstick or a foundation, an additional particulate phase, which may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 40% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pigments and/or nacres and/or additional fillers used in cosmetic compositions may especially comprise pigments and/or nacres and/or additional fillers used in cosmetic compositions.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or nonlamellar particles.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent particles, produced especially by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized.
  • the pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight and especially from 0.02% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively the diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-
  • DPP diketo pyrrolopyrroles
  • the nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01% to
  • the nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the additional fillers may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.02% to 30% by weight and more particularly 0.02% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • spherical fillers for instance talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ® ) powders (Orgasol ® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ® ), . starch, boron nitride, polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ®
  • the composition may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight and especially ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any ingredient conventionally used in the fields under consideration and more especially in cosmetics and dermatology.
  • ingredients may be chosen especially from polymers, especially film- forming polymers and fixing polymers; surfactants; hair conditioning agents; opacifiers; fragrances; thickeners; gelling agents; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums; preserving agents; antioxidants; cosmetic active agents; sunscreens; pH stabilizers; vitamins; moisturizers; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; self-tanning compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may be obtained according to the preparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • Example 1 Measurements of hardness of wax/volatile compound binary systems
  • the binary systems have the following general composition (mass %):
  • the volatile compound is either l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-ethyltrisiloxane
  • compositions were manufactured according to the following general procedure:
  • the volatile compound is added, and the mixture is then homogenized with magnetic stirring at this temperature. After 15 minutes, the mixture is poured at 9O 0 C into dishes that are at room temperature. The mixture is left to cool for 6 minutes at room temperature and then for 20 minutes at -4°C.
  • the hardnesses are measured at 20°C using a TA-XT2 texture analyzer sold by the company Rheo.
  • the hardness is likened to the maximum force (in newtons) measured during the penetration of a stainless-steel cylinder 5 mm in diameter to a depth of 0.3 mm and at a speed of 0.1 mm/second into the composition.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour maquiller et/ou traiter la peau, les lèvres et/ou les fibres de kératine, comportant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins une cire polaire et au moins une huile de trisiloxane alkyle linéaire volatile correspondant à la formule générale (I), dans laquelle R représente un groupe alkyle contenant 2, 3, 4 ou 5 atomes de carbone, éventuellement remplacés par un ou plusieurs atomes de fluor ou de chlore. La présente invention concerne également le procédé cosmétique correspondant.
PCT/IB2005/002020 2004-07-28 2005-07-15 Composition cosmétique comportant une cire polaire et un trisiloxane alkyle WO2006013412A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0451691 2004-07-28
FR0451691A FR2873582B1 (fr) 2004-07-28 2004-07-28 Composition cosmetique comportant au moins une cire apolaire et au moins une huile alkyltrisiloxane volatile
US59812004P 2004-08-03 2004-08-03
US60/598,120 2004-08-03

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2006013412A1 true WO2006013412A1 (fr) 2006-02-09

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006082102A2 (fr) * 2005-02-04 2006-08-10 Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics Gmbh & Co. Kg Preparation, notamment preparation cosmetique, production et utilisation de ladite preparation
FR2889952A1 (fr) * 2005-07-22 2007-03-02 Oreal Procede de revetement des cils
WO2016191919A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 L'oreal Composition solide d'eau dans silicone avec effet de libération d'eau
WO2018098822A1 (fr) * 2016-12-02 2018-06-07 L'oreal Procédé et kit pour modifier la forme de fibres de kératine humaines

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2749505A1 (fr) * 1996-06-07 1997-12-12 Oreal Composition de maquillage ou de soin sans transfert a alkylpolysiloxane
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2749505A1 (fr) * 1996-06-07 1997-12-12 Oreal Composition de maquillage ou de soin sans transfert a alkylpolysiloxane
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006082102A2 (fr) * 2005-02-04 2006-08-10 Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics Gmbh & Co. Kg Preparation, notamment preparation cosmetique, production et utilisation de ladite preparation
WO2006082102A3 (fr) * 2005-02-04 2007-01-18 Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics Gmbh Preparation, notamment preparation cosmetique, production et utilisation de ladite preparation
FR2889952A1 (fr) * 2005-07-22 2007-03-02 Oreal Procede de revetement des cils
US8460645B2 (en) 2005-07-22 2013-06-11 L'oreal S.A. Process for coating eyelashes
WO2016191919A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 L'oreal Composition solide d'eau dans silicone avec effet de libération d'eau
CN107847421A (zh) * 2015-05-29 2018-03-27 莱雅公司 具有水释放效果的固体硅酮包水组合物
KR20200036054A (ko) * 2015-05-29 2020-04-06 로레알 수분 방출 효과를 갖는 고형의 실리콘유중 수형 조성물
KR102216527B1 (ko) 2015-05-29 2021-02-18 로레알 수분 방출 효과를 갖는 고형의 실리콘유중 수형 조성물
WO2018098822A1 (fr) * 2016-12-02 2018-06-07 L'oreal Procédé et kit pour modifier la forme de fibres de kératine humaines

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