WO2005087186A1

WO2005087186A1 - Method for styling hair by applying a cosmetic composition containing a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer and contacting the hair with a heating iron

Info

Publication number: WO2005087186A1
Application number: PCT/FR2005/000461
Authority: WO
Inventors: Estelle Mathonneau; Isabelle Rollat; Henri Samain
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2004-02-27
Filing date: 2005-02-25
Publication date: 2005-09-22

Abstract

A method for styling human hair, characterised in that it includes two main steps of applying a cosmetic composition containing a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer to the hair; and previously, simultaneously or subsequently applying a heating iron to the hair at a temperature of at least 80 °C, said polymer having a lower melting point than the temperature to which the iron is heated. The embodiment of the method shown in figures 1a and 1b uses tongs to style the hair: figure 1a shows the tongs in the open position and figure 1b shows the tongs in the closed position. Reference sign 1 denotes a lock of hair and reference sign 2 denotes the edges of the tongs contacting the lock of hair.

Description

PROCESS FOR SHAPING HUMAN HAIR BY APPLYING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CRYSTALLINE OR SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER AND BRINGING HAIR INTO CONTACT WITH A HEATING IRON

The subject of the present invention is a process for shaping human hair such that it comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer; and bringing the hair, sequentially or simultaneously, into contact with a heating iron capable of shaping the hair, brought to at least 80 ° C. The use of heating irons for shaping hair, such as straightening, curling or embossing irons, is known. The Applicant has also used these heating means in combination with compositions containing in particular polymers, this is in particular described in the French application for filing number FR 03 05636. There are also known styling products for fixing the hairstyle, forming in particular highlights, that is to say bundles of hair linked together. These styling products are generally gels, solutions or foams containing a fixing polymer. The drawback associated with this type of product lies in the fact that the holding of the hairstyle, and in particular of the highlights, is limited in time. If cosmetic compositions having a higher proportion of polymers are used, it is not always possible to improve the resistance of the hairstyle and if this is achieved, an extremely rigid hairstyle is obtained with stiff, brittle and therefore not very flexible strands. , not very malleable. In addition, the cosmetic feel of this type of product is particularly unattractive: the feel is sticky. There are also known permanent hair treatments. These treatments use a reducing agent and an agent oxidizing, and require a mechanical tensioning of the hair with the help of a winding material in order to confer a lasting shaping of the hair. Although they effectively make it possible to fix the hairstyle more durably than gels based on fixing polymers, these methods have the drawback of degrading the nature and the feel of the hair fiber. The object of the present invention is to provide a method of shaping the hair which makes it possible to fix the hairstyle, and in particular the highlights, in a lasting manner, even in wet weather; the hairstyle obtained according to this process being flexible, malleable and having a pleasant cosmetic feel, in particular not sticky. Advantageously and unexpectedly, the Applicant has just discovered that this problem can be resolved by the implementation of a process comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer; and bringing the hair, sequentially or simultaneously, into contact with a heating iron brought to a temperature greater than or equal to 80 ° C. so as to be capable of shaping the hair, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a temperature melting point below the heating temperature of the heating iron. According to the invention, the cosmetic composition containing a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer will be called "shaping composition" in the following text. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the shaping composition contains an aqueous phase. Advantageously, the shaping composition according to the invention contains a thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising fatty chains. This polymer allows a significant increase in the fixing power of the shaping composition, while surprisingly preventing the heating iron from sticking to the hair during its application. The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and cohesive deposit of the shaping composition on the hair: it makes it possible to avoid the formation of agglomerates of composition on the hair and in particular the formation of pilling. The method according to the invention is easy to implement: it allows an easy shaping of the desired hairstyle, and leads to a good level of fixing of the hair, in particular a good hold of the curls in the case of a crimping, which is maintained throughout the day or even over several days. The effect also has good resistance to moisture and water vapor and it is easily removed with shampoo. The hairstyle, and in particular the highlights, obtained by implementing the method according to the invention does not have a stiffened appearance, the hairstyle obtained is flexible and malleable (without helmet effect), its feel is pleasant, natural, in particular it is not sticky. This process also makes it possible to confer on the hair good cosmetic properties such as softness, easy disentangling, shine. Another advantage of the present invention is that the shaping composition does not stick to the iron and that its texture is pleasant. Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for implementing the method according to the invention. This cosmetic composition contains a physiologically acceptable medium, a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting temperature below the heating temperature of a heating iron, this heating temperature being greater than or equal to 80 ° C., a polymer comprising fatty chains, thickener of the physiologically acceptable medium. For a physiologically acceptable medium containing an aqueous phase, the thickening polymer is suitable for thickening this aqueous phase. Other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. A first object of the present application is therefore a method of shaping the hair. The process according to the invention is a process for shaping human hair, characterized in that it comprises the following two main stages: • applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer, • and after a possible pause time, bring the hair into contact with a heating iron, brought to a temperature greater than or equal to 80 ° C., • the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting point below the heating temperature of the iron. For the purposes of the present invention, "at least one" means one or more (and in particular 2, 3, 4 or more). In particular, the shaping composition may contain a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer with a melting temperature below the heating temperature of a heating iron, or several crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers, each with a melting temperature below the heating temperature of the heating iron. Advantageously, the shaping composition according to the invention contains an aqueous phase and one or more thickening polymers of the aqueous phase comprising fatty chains. According to a variant of the process according to the present application, the hair is brought into contact with a heating iron after partial or total drying of the hair. By “partial drying”, within the meaning of the present application, it is meant that 5 to 95% of the hair is dried. By “total drying”, within the meaning of the present application is meant that at least 95% of the hair is dried. By “hair shaping process”, is meant any process intended to modify the initial appearance of the hairstyle, it can therefore be a process of crimping or embossing the hair or even a process of hair straightening or straightening. A second object and of the present application is a cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, at the minus a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting temperature lower than the heating temperature of a heating iron, this heating temperature being higher or. equal to 80 ° C., at least one polymer comprising fatty chains, thickening physiologically acceptable medium. A physiologically acceptable, and more precisely cosmetic, medium is a compatible medium and non-toxic for human skin and hair, which can be applied daily. In particular, this cosmetic composition contains an aqueous phase; in this case the thickening polymer is a thickening polymer of aqueous phase. A third object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer and an iron heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 80 ° C. to obtain a flexible, lasting shaping. , and malleable of the hair, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting temperature lower than the heating temperature of the iron. When the cosmetic composition is applied to the hair before the step of applying the heating iron, a pause time of between 30 seconds and 10 minutes can be made between these two main steps. The hair contacting step can be carried out by means of any heating iron capable of shaping said hair. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “heating iron” will denote any device by means of which it is possible to give the hair a shape, either by pinching the locks of hair between two heating elements, or by winding the locks of hair around a heating element (generally cylindrical in shape). As heating iron which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of "straightening, curling, embossing irons". According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the heating iron is a straightening or embossing iron. These devices generally allow the hair to be heated to a temperature between 80 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 ° C to 230 ° C. The application of the heating means can be done by successive touches or by sliding the device along the hair. The step consisting in applying the cosmetic shaping composition is carried out by means of a composition comprising at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer, with a melting point below the heating temperature of the heating iron. By “polymer” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a compound comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. By "crystalline polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a polymer essentially consisting of crystallizable chains or blocks. By "semi-crystalline polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a polymer comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part in the skeleton. The crystalline and semi-crystalline polymers have a reversible first-order phase change temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). In the case of semi-crystalline polymers, the crystallizable part is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a block in the skeleton. By "crystallizable chain or sequence" is meant within the meaning of the invention a chain or sequence which, if it were alone would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is placed above above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral with respect to the polymer backbone. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. When the crystallizable part is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable sequence is of a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable part is a chain hanging from the skeleton, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By “organic compound” or “with organic structure”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound containing carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P, alone or in combination association. Advantageously, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention comprise a weight-average molecular mass Mp ranging from 5,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 1,000 to 800,000, preferably from 15 000 to 500

000. The crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer (s) used according to the invention are solids at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), the melting point of which is greater than or equal to 30 ° C , preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, and more preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 100 ° C, and in particular from 40 ° C to 80 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order state change temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). In particular, the method described in application EP 1 174 1 13 can be used. The melting point values correspond in particular to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S .C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by METTLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute. The melting point considered is then the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram. The crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer (s) used according to the invention preferably have a melting temperature higher than the temperature of the support intended to receive said shaping composition, here the hair. According to one embodiment of the invention, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer (s) used have a melting temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, in particular from 40 ° C to 100 ° C and better still from 40 to 80 ° C. Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 10% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains are homo or copolymers. The crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers which can be used according to the invention are block or multi-block copolymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers used according to the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form. The crystalline polymers which can be used according to the invention can be polyanilines, polyparaphenylene diamines, copolymers of 1, 2 bis (3,4-dicarboxyphenylthio) ethane dianhydride and m-phenylenediamine, poly (2,5dimethylbenzyl), polymeta- cyclophanes, polyethylenes such as P Epolene N-14® from Eastman Chemical Cie (with a melting point of 106 ° C.), Polyethylene Wax AC 617® from Honeywell (with a melting temperature of around 100 ° C). Preferably, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers used according to the invention are of synthetic origin. In addition, they do not have a polysaccharide backbone. Preferably, the polymers which can be used according to the invention are semi-crystalline polymers. The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, such as for example those in which the monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897. - polycondensates and in particular of the type polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in the document US -A-5 156 91 1, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document OA-01/19333, - and their mixtures. In the latter two cases, the side chain (s) or crystallizable blocks are hydrophobic.

A) Semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains Mention may in particular be made of those defined in documents US-A-5 1 56 91 1 and WO-A-01/19333.

They are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic crystallizable side chains. These homo- or co-polymers are of all kinds. They can result from: - the radical polymerization in particular of one or more monomers with a reactive double bond (s) or ethylenic towards a polymerization, namely with vinyl group, (meth) acrylic or allylic; - polycondensation of one or more monomers carrying co-reactive groups (carboxylic or sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as for example polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas, polyamides.

a) Generally, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers which can be used according to the invention come from monomer (s) with block (s) or crystallizable chain (s), used ) for the production of semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable chain (s) which can be represented by formula X:

- M - with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone | S representing a spacer SC representing a crystallizable group C The crystallizable "-SC" chains can be aliphatic or aromatic, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. “S” represents in particular a group (CH ₂ ) n or (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) n or (CH ₂ O), linear or branched or cyclic, with n integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably “S” is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different. When the crystallizable “-SC” chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl hydrocarbon chains with at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These are in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably they are C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl chains. preferably in C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ . When these are fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains, they contain at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated. As an example of homopolymers or semi-crystalline copolymers with crystallizable chain (s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the alkyl group C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates with a C _n -C ₁₅ perfluoro alkyl group, N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group with or without fluorine atom , vinyl esters with alkyl or perfluoro (alkyl) chains with the C ₁₄ alkyl group with (^ (with at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoro alkyl chain), vinyl ethers with alkyl or perfluoro (alkyl) chains with the C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl group and at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoro alkyl chain, the alpha-olefins

C _M to C ₂₄ such as for example octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, their mixtures. When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated chains as defined above, are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine, a di-isocyanate. When the objective polymers of the invention are copolymers, they contain, in addition, from 0 to 50% of groups Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization:) of Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two : When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying polyoxyalkylenated groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated), a hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, an N -alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an NN-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide such as for example NN-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinyl-pyrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least one carboxylic acid group such as (meth) acrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids or carrying an anhydride group of carboxylic acid such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof. When Y is a non-polar monomer, it can be an ester of the branched or cyclic linear (meth) acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted by a group alkyl Cι to _0, such as α- methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type vinyl unsaturation. By "alkyl" is meant within the meaning of the invention a group saturated in particular with C ₈ to C ₂₄ , unless expressly mentioned. β) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular of C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and their mixtures. B) Polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block It may be soluble or dispersible polymers in a liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting temperature. These polymers are in particular block copolymers formed from at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable. - One can use the polymers defined in patent US-A-5 156 91 1, - Block copolymers of olefin or of cycloolefin with crystallizable chain such as those resulting from the block polymerization of: -. Cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e. bicyclo (2,2,1) heptene-2), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethyl norbornene, 5-ethylidene-norbornene, 5-phenyl-norbonene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinyl norbornene, l, 4,5,8-dimethano- l, 2,3, 4,4a, 5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene or their mixtures, - with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene,

1-eicosene or their mixtures, - and in particular the copoly (ethylene / norbornene) blocks and the terpolymers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene-norbornene), blocks. One can also use those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 α-olefins in C ₂ -Cι ₆ and better in C -Cι ₂ such as those mentioned above and in particular the block bipolymers of ethylene and 1- octene. - The copolymers can be copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the rest of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers can, moreover, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which have both at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous block which is both hydrophobic and lipophilic, distributed sequentially; mention may, for example, be made of polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks:

- Sequence crystallizable by nature: a) polyester such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), b) polyolefin such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes. - Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as: amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefin) s such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene). As an example of such copolymers with crystallizable block and with amorphous block, mention may be made of:) poly (ε-caprolactone) -b- poly (butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly (ε-caprolactone) -block- polybutadiene copolymers "from S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-

3734 (1999). β) block copolymers poly (butyleneterephthalate) -b- poly (isoprene) hydrogenated block or multiblock, cited in the article "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al. , Polymer Bulletin, 34, 1 17-123 (1995). γ) poly (ethylene) -b- copoly (ethylene / propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene- (ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules , 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and "Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the System poly (ethylene) - poly (ethylene-propylene) "P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997). δ) block copolymers pol ^' y (ethylene) -b - poly (ethylethylene) cited in the general article "Cristallization in block copolymers" by IW Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol 148, 1 13 - 137 (1999). The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention can may or may not be crosslinked in part. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also be a physical crosslinking which may then be due to either establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer such as for example the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantity and carried by the polymer backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and amorphous blocks, carried by the polymer. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl (meth) acrylates, (C _n to C ₁₅ perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates, C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ N (meth) acrylamides with or without fluorine atom, vinyl esters with C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, ethers vinyl alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ alpha-olefins C ₁₄ -C _24, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one acid or ester or amide monocarboxylic acid C, C ₁₀ possibly fluorinated, which can be represented by the following formula

(I):

in which RI is H or CH ₃ , R represents an optionally fluorinated Cι-C ₁₀ alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR ₂ , where R ₂ represents an optionally fluorinated CC ₁₀ alkyl group. According to one embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymers used according to the present invention are copolymers comprising: (1) from 85 to 98% by weight of hydrophobic units and (2) from 2 to 15% by weight of hydrophilic units. The hydrophobic units are derived from α, β-ethylenic monomers with an n-alkyl side chain in Cι ₂ _ ₅ o preferably in Cι ₄ - ₂₄ forming crystalline homopolymers called in the Anglo Saxon literature "crystalline polymer side chain". They are in particular acrylates and methacrylates of n-alkyl in Cι ₂ - ₅₀ and preferably in Cι ₄ - ₂₄ . The hydrophilic units are preferably derived from C ₃ monocarboxylic acids. ₆ α, β-unsaturated, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or crotonic acid, of C ₄ unsaturated carboxylic acids. ₆ such as maleic acid and itaconic acid, or esters and amides with a Cι- alkyl chain and N-

(Cι_ ₄ alkyl) - (meth) acrylamides. It is also possible to use, as hydrophilic unit, hydroxyethyl methacrylate or vinylpyrrolidone. The carboxylic acid groups of hydrophilic units are preferably partially or totally neutralized with a base chosen, for example, from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine or triisopropanolamine. According to a particular mode of implementation, the semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the shaping composition according to the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from (meth) acrylates of Cι-saturated alkyl - C ₂₂ . As a particular example of semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the shaping composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure “Intelimer® polymers”, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25 ° C). They carry crystallizable side chains and have the formula

(I) previous. The semi-crystalline polymers may in particular be those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 13 of US Pat. No. 5 1,566,911 with groups - COOH, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and d 'C ₅ to C ₁₆ (meth) acrylic alkyl, more particularly from the copolymerization: • of acrylic acid, of hexadecylacrylate and of isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 weight ratio or • of acrylic acid and of pentadecylacrylate in a weight ratio 1/19 or • of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and ethacrylate in a weight ratio 2, 5 / 76.5 / 20 or • of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methacrylate in a weight ratio 5/85/10 or • acrylic acid and octadecylmethacrylate in a 2.5 / 97.5 weight ratio or • hexadecylacrylate, monomethyl ether of polyethylene glycol methacrylate with 8 ethylene glycol units, and acrylic acid, in a weight ratio of 8.5 / 1 / 0.5. Another type of semi-crystalline polymer which can be used is described in patent US5,880,204. These are semi-crystalline polymer particles comprising a semi-crystalline core (“core”) of formula CX ₂ CYA (preferably fluorinated compound) and an amorphous shell (“shell”) of formula CX ₂ CYB (composed of preferably fluorinated). These compounds are such that: a) the first semi-crystalline copolymer forming the core has at least two comonomer units of formula: CX ₂ CYA in which: each X is chosen independently of one another from H, Cl or F; Y represents H, Cl, F, O (CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ , (CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ , (OCZ ₂ CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ , or (O (CZ ₂ ) _n ) _n CZ ₃ in which n is from about 1 to about 12; Z is independently selected from H or F; A represents H, Cl or F; the first copolymer contains at least about 4% by weight of each of the comonomer units, and at least one of the units of the first comonomer contains a fluorine atom, and b) the second copolymer forming the amorphous envelope is the product of the reaction d an agent allowing crosslinking and at least two comonomer units of formula: CX ₂ CYB in which X and Y are as defined above, B represents H, Cl, F or -OCOR; in which R is a linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and at least one of the motifs of the second comonomer contains a fluorine atom. As semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of “core-shell” particles containing a partially or totally crystalline core, surrounded by an amorphous network, preferably crosslinked. These particles can be used alone or in combination with one of the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers described above. These particles are described in the articles: • Thermally-Induced (Re) shaping of Core-Shell Nanocrystalline Particles, Qi Zhang, Christopher G Clark, Min Wang, Edward E. Remsen and Karen Wooley, Nanoletters, vol.2 n ° 10, (2002), 1051 - 1054 • Shell Cross-Linked Nanoparticles Containing Hydrolytically Degradable, Crystalline Core Domains, Qi Zhang, Edward E. Remsen and Karen Wooley, J.Am. Chem. Soc, (2000) 122, 3642-365 1. It is also possible to use the polymer Structure "O" from National Starch such as that described in the document US-A-5,736,125 with a melting point of 44 ° C., as well as semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendant chains comprising fluorinated groups as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333. The crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers which can be used according to the invention can be used in the form of solids or dispersions. According to one embodiment, the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers are solid. They can then be brought to a temperature higher than their melting temperature in order to melt them and disperse them in the physiological medium of the composition of shaping, advantageously containing an oil. According to another embodiment of the invention, the polymers can be emulsified before introducing them into the shaping composition. This dissolution can be carried out as described in document WO 98/25710 from the company Landec. The crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer as defined above or the mixture of crystalline or semi-crystalline polymers is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 10% by weight , and even more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In order to facilitate the preparation of the shaping composition, it may contain a liquid fatty phase (at room temperature 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). This fatty phase can contain one or more non-polar oils or a mixture of non-polar oil (s) and polar oil (s). The apolar oils according to the invention are in particular silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, liquid at room temperature; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, liquids; linear or branched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, liquids, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® sold by Nippon Oil Fats, squalane; their mixtures. Preferably, the nonpolar oils used are nonpolar oils of the hydrocarbon type, liquids, of mineral or synthetic origin, chosen in particular from Parleam® oil (hydrogenated isoparaffin), isoparaffins, squalane and their mixtures. Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase contains at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of mineral or synthetic origin. By "hydrocarbon-based oil" is meant within the meaning of the invention oils containing mainly carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and in particular alkyl or alkenyl chains such as alkanes or alkenes but also oils with alkyl or alkenyl chains comprising one or more ether, ester, hydroxyl or carboxylic acid groups. It is possible to add to the nonpolar oils polar oils, the nonpolar oils serving in particular as co-solvent for polar oils. In particular, the polar oils of the invention are: hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have chain lengths. varied, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, banana , passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic oils of formula R ₅ COOR ₆ in which R ₅ represents the remainder of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₆ represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 atoms carbon such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate; - synthetic esters and ethers such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, malate di-isostearyl; and pentaerythritol esters; - C ₈ to C ₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol; - fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid; - their mixtures. The liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15%. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising fatty chains. The thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain according to the invention are preferably of the nonionic, anionic or cationic type. Among the thickening polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and of anionic type, there may be mentioned: - (I) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one allyl ether unit with fatty chain, more particularly those whose unit hydrophilic is constituted by an anionic ethylenically unsaturated monomer, more particularly still by a carboxylic acid vinyl and very particularly with an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and the fatty chain allyl ether unit of which corresponds to the monomer of formula (I). below: CH ₂ = CR 'CH ₂ OB _n R (I) in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. A unit of formula (I) more particularly preferred is a unit in which R ′ denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (C ₁₈ ). Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479. Among these anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain, the polymers formed are particularly preferred according to the invention. from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (lower) alkyl (meth) acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of allyl ether with a fatty chain of formula (I), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known polyethylene unsaturated copolymerizable copolymer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide. Among the latter, very particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS under the names SALCARE SC 80 and SALCARE SC90 which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10). - (H) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid. Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below: CH _p ^ C - C - CH (H) I II R ₁ o in which R _x denotes H or CH ₃ or CH ₅ , that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (Cι ₀ -C ₃₀ ) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:

in which R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH ₃ (methacrylate units), R ₃ denoting an alkyl radical in Cιo-C ₃₀ , and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . Alkyl esters (Cι ₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, acrylate isodecyl, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, i sodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain, use will be made more particularly of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ , R ₃ denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well known polyethylenic unsaturated copolymerizable monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene- bis-acrylamide. Among this type of anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain, use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of Cιo-C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate. (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in. Cιo-C ₃₀ (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among said polymers above, very particularly preferred, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI, Carbopol ^® Ultrez 20 or even ETD 2020 from the company NONEON and also the product sold by the company S .EPPIC under the name COATEX SX. - (III) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin / alkyl maleate such as the product (co-polymer maleic anhydride / α-C ₃₀ -C ₃ olefin / isopropyl maleate ) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

- (IV) the acrylic terpolymers c comprising: (a) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) about 20 to 80% by weight of an unsaturated monomer α, β- non-surfactant monoethylenic different from (a), (c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a surfactant monohydric with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173 109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl meta-isopropenyl terpolymer ethoxylated behenyl alcohol benzyl isocyanate (40OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion. - (V) copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of Cι-C ₄ alcohol. As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22 sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methacryl ate stearyl oxyalkylenated terpolymer. The thickening polymers with a fatty chain of nonionic type are preferably chosen from: - (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; by way of example, mention may be made of: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ , like the NATROSOL PLUS product

GRADE 330 CS (C _l6 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL, - those modified by polyalkylene glycol ether groups of alkyl phenol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM- 1500 - (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company

Amerchol.

- (2) hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products

RE210-18 (C _M alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.

- (3) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; By way of example, mention may be made of: - the products ANTARON V2 16 or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I. S .P. - ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I. S .P.

- (4) copolymers of methacrylates or of acrylates of Cι-C ₆ alkyls and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208. - (5) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. - (6) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

- (7) polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE. Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains being able to be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more several hanging chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The polyether polyurethanes can be multi-sequenced in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be in grafts or in a star. The nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 100O oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. By extension also appear among the nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds. As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyether polyurethanes which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or also Rheolates 208

, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company ROHM & HAAS [ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate)

(SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water

(26%)]. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T21 0 with a C 12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212 with a C 8 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, available at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX. One can also use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS. The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Balcke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993). The fatty chain thickening polymers of cationic type are preferably chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with non-cyclic amino side groups. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular., - quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. ci, - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. As examples of C ₈ -C ₃ fatty chain quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses, the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-1 8-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C alkyl ) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C 1 8 alkyl) sold by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C ₁₂ alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C ₈ alkyl) sold by the company CRODA.

Polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or not, have for example hydrophobic groups of the steareth 20 type (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)). As examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains, mention may be made of polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 offered by the company National Starch. Preferably, the thickening polymer is a copolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and of a C ₁₀ alkyl acrylate or methacrylate. ₃ o marketed for example by the company GOODRICH under the names Carbopol® 1342,

Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen® TRI or and Pemulen® TR2, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 or by the company NONEON under the name ETD 2020. The thickening polymer or mixtures of thickening polymer is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0, 1 to _3%> by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1 , 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one lower C 1 -C ₄ alcohol in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 8 to 20% "and even more preferably from 10 to 20 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. CC ₄ lower alcohols are for example chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers and their mixtures, preferably the alcohol used is ethanol. The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers other than the polymers used according to the invention. invention, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens, liquid or solid, solid compounds such as pigments, pearlescent or opacifying agents, dyes, agents sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, pH regulating agents, neutralizing agents, mineral and organic thickening agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, glycols, penetration agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, reducing or oxidizing agents, opacifying agents and preserving agents owers. The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the shaping composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition (s) envisaged. In particular, the process according to the present invention is carried out by means of a composition comprising: • from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer; ^" From 0.1 to 1.5% by weight of at least one thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising fatty chains; • from 0 to 30% by weight of at least one C alcohol,. ₄ ; • some water. The process described in the present application can also comprise a step of breaking the disulphide bonds of the hair by means of a denaturing agent in particular at a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 10%) of the weight of the total weight of the composition form, this agent possibly being a reducing agent or an alkaline agent, this step being optionally followed by rinsing, and can be followed by a possible fixing step with an oxidizing agent, this fixing step being followed by rinsing . The disulfide bond breaking step can be carried out as a pretreatment of the application of the shaping composition or after the application of iron. The advantage of associating the use of a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer with an iron in the presence of an agent allowing the rupture of the disulfide bonds is to be able to do without means of shaping under tension of the hair (curlers by example). The process advantageously comprises the following stages: - application of a reducing or alkaline agent to the hair then pause time from 1 to 30 minutes; then optional rinsing of the hair; monitoring of an implementation of the hair shaping process, namely application of the cosmetic composition (comprising a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer, then bringing the hair into contact with the heating iron); - then possible pause time from 1 5 to 30 minutes; - and finally, rinse the hair; or the application of an oxidizing fixative to the hair and rinsing of the latter after a pause time of 5 to 15 minutes. According to another variant of this process, the reducing or alkaline agent is applied at the same time as the cosmetic shaping composition. This variant then comprises the following stages: shaping of the hair according to the invention: application of the cosmetic composition to the hair comprising a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer and the reducing or alkaline agent, then bringing the hair into contact with a heating iron; - possible pause time of 5 to 30 minutes after removing the iron, - then either a hair rinse; or possibly a rinse then application of an oxidizing fixative on the hair and rinsing thereof, after a pause time of 5 to 15 minutes. The cosmetic composition brought into contact with the heating iron makes it possible to give the desired shape to the hair. The shape is maintained throughout the rinsing and fixing steps. This variant makes it possible to give the hairstyle various lasting shapes depending on the device used (straightening, notching, curling iron): these shapes being curls, notches (square, rectangular, triangular, etc.), shapes wavy .... As reducing agent, there may be mentioned, without this list being limiting, thiols such as thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiomalic acid, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, cysteine, N-glycyl-L-cysteine, L-cysteinylglycine and their esters and salts, thioglycerol, cysteamine and its C ₁ -C ₄ acyl derivatives, N-mesylcysteamine, N-acetylcysteine, N-mercaptoalkylamides of sugars such as N- (mercapto-2-ethyl) gluconamide, pantethine, N - (mercaptoalkyl) -ω-hydroxy alkylamides described in patent application EP-A-354,835, the N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4 butyramides described in patent application EP-A-368,763, the aminomercaptoalkylamides described in patent application EP-A-

432,000, derivatives of N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamic acids and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides described in patent application EP-A-465,342, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides described in application EP-A-514,282, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate and (2-hydroxy-1-methyl) ethyl thioglycolate described in patent application FR-A-2 679 448, the mercaptoalkylaminoamides described in patent application FR-A-2 692,481, the N-mercapto alkyl alkane diamides described in patent application EP-A-653,202: - hydrides such as sodium or potassium borohydride;

- sulfites or bisulfites of an alkali or alkaline earth metal;

- phosphorus derivatives such as phosphines or phosphites; etc. The preferred reducing agents are thioglycolic acid and cysteine or their derivatives. The reducing agent is preferably used in aqueous solution. The alkaline agent is preferably sodium hydroxide. When using a thiol such as for example thioglycolic acid, its concentration is generally between 0.05 and 1 M, the pH of the aqueous solution is preferably between 6.5 and 9, the contact time is generally between 1 and 15 minutes and preferably between 5 and 10 minutes. The pH is adjusted using an agent chosen, for example, from: ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1, 3-propanediamine, an alkali or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, an alkali hydroxide or even advantageously using a quaternary ammonium hydroxide. The appropriate medium is generally constituted by water or by a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent. Mention may be made, as organic solvent, of lower alcohols, hydroxylated or not, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30%> by weight approximately. According to one embodiment, the shaping composition has at least 10%) by weight of lower C alcohols] _. -C ₄ , hydroxylated or not. The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the present invention can be applied to the hair without particular utensils or using means commonly used in the styling field such as spray bottles, pump bottles, aerosol bottles. . According to a variant of the invention, the heating iron has a reservoir allowing the direct delivery of the composition to the fibers. The iron brought to at least 80 ° C. can be applied after applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; he can be applied once or several times successively according to the desired result: we note in particular that the passage of the hot iron several times allows to modulate the hairstyle, to give it a shape at first with a first passage of the hot iron and to give it a second shape by ironing the hot iron to give another shape to the hair. This process can be repeated several times (more than ten times) without having to readjust the cosmetic composition for shaping on the hair. Without wishing to be bound to a theory, it is believed that the heat source must make it possible to melt the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer so that it forms a film on the hair. Iron brought to a temperature of at least 80 ° C must allow the polymer melting temperature to be exceeded. Conventionally, this step is a step of crimping or embossing the hair or even straightening or straightening of the hair, it is implemented with an appropriate heating iron such as straightening, curling, curling or embossing irons. , these irons can be combined with different molds to print all types of shape patterns on the hair. So you can print relief shapes on the hairstyle, or

"Hollow", such as round or elliptical shapes (for example points or ovals), rectangular or hexagonal shapes (small squares, rectangles, hexagonal, triangles, ...), patterns imitating hairstyles such as braids, or any other pattern representing any form of object, image, etc. The method according to the invention can be explained by means of the figures which follow. Figures la and b show an implementation of the method according to the invention using a clamp to print a shape to the hair: Figure la is an open representation of the clamp and Figure lb is a closed representation of the clamp, the dimension 1 defines a lock of hair and dimension 2 defines the edges of the clip in contact with the lock of hair. The edges of the clamp can be flat, curved, round, polyhexagonal, they can be complementary or symmetrical. By edges of the clamp is meant the part in contact with the lock of hair. Reliefs can be arranged on one of the edges of the pliers or on both edges. The reliefs can be the same on both edges or they can be different. In addition, one of the edges may include reliefs and the other may be flat, curved, round, polyhexagonal, etc. Furthermore, one or both of the edges of the clamp may be provided with heating means. Figures 2 to 12 illustrate examples of pliers usable in the method according to the invention. These figures show pliers in profile view. Figure 2 shows flat shapes, Figure 3 shows symmetrical curved shapes, shape 4 shows complementary curved shapes, Figure 5 shows symmetrical triangular shapes, Figure 6 shows complementary triangular shapes, Figures 7, 9 and 1 1 have symmetrical poly hexagonal shapes, Figures 8, 10 and 12 show complementary polyhexagonal shapes. Figures 13, 14 and 15 show examples of shapes intended to be printed on the hair. These shapes can be flat, curved, polyhexagonal with square or rectangular notches, or with teeth such as triangles. The shape can be given by the shape of the iron or by a mold that is adapted on a clamp. Figures 13 a, b, c, d show shapes for printing square notches. Figure 13a is a top view and Figure 13b is a side view. Figure 13c shows a device whose 2 edges are intended to print square notches. Figure 13d shows a device whose top edge is flat and the bottom edge is intended to print square notches. Figures 14 a, b, c, d show shapes for printing triangular notches. Figure 14a is a top view and Figure 14b is a side view. Figure 14c shows a device whose 2 edges are intended to print triangular notches. FIG. 14d presents a device the top edge of which is flat and the bottom edge is intended for printing triangular notches. Figures 15 a, b, c, d show shapes for printing rounded notches. Figure 15a is a top view and Figure 15b is a side view. Figure 15c shows a device whose 2 edges are intended to print rounded notches. Figure 15d shows a device whose top edge is flat and the bottom edge is intended to print rounded notches. In FIGS. 13a, 14a and 15a, the rib 1 represents a length between 0.5 and 30cm, preferably between 2 and 15cm and the rib L represents a length between 2 and 30cm, preferably between 5 and 15 cm In FIGS. 13b, 14b and 15b the ribs al, bl and cl represent lengths between 0, 1 and 5 cm, preferably between 0, 1 and 1, 5 cm; the ribs a2, b2 and c2 represent lengths between 0, 1 and 10 cm, preferably between 0.5 and 5 cm; the ribs a3, b3 and c3 represent lengths between 0, 1 and 10 cm, preferably between 0.5 and 5 cm. The means for shaping the hair may also comprise an iron composed of a single element around which the lock of hair is wound. This element can have very different shapes: round, elliptical, polyhexagonal; it can be full or hollow, of regular or irregular sections, for example the section of said element may not be constant over its entire length. Figures 16a, 17a, 18a, 19a, 20a, 21a, 22a, 23a, 24a and 25a show element shapes usable for implementing the method according to the invention, the sections of which are shown respectively in Figures 16b , 17b, 18b, 19b, 20b, 21b, 22b, 23b,

24b, 25b. Figures 26 and 27 illustrate sections of shapes formed by combining several simple shapes. One variant of the invention consists in using the method of the invention to fix objects to the hair, in particular strips of paper or of fabrics, fibers of all types and in particular raj hair outs. These examples show that the choice of usable forms is unlimited. The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

The formulations of the following examples are prepared:

Example 1 The following solution of semi-crystalline polymer is prepared: • POLY ACRYLATE OF STEARYLE marketed under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 by the company Landec is melted at 80 ° C; A solution of ACRYLATES / C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE marketed under the name Carbopol Ultrez 20 by the company Noveon at 0.5% in water is prepared, • the ACRYLATES / C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE solution is heated to 80 ° C with stirring and the STEARYLE POLY ACRYLATE maintained at 80 ° C is added • the solution is then kept stirring for 15 minutes at 80 ° C then • keeps the solution stirred until cooling.

Solution A of semi-crystalline polymer is obtained, comprising by weight:

1 gram of formulation composition 1 is applied uniformly to a lock (2.5 grams) of European type hair and then a straightening iron is applied at 180 ° C. to this lock: the lock is passed several times between the two arms of the iron until the cosmetic composition on the wick is dry. It is found that the iron can be easily passed several times over the wick. The composition does not stick to the iron and forms a homogeneous deposit, which does not pilling. By using conventional compositions of the prior art, a net brake is generally obtained on the second or third pass over the lock, as well as a pilling effect. The lock treated with the composition of formulation 1 is solid and flexible, it is not rigid or brittle and does not "break" when handled. Its shaping is durable, even in a humid environment. It is also noted that by applying the composition of formulation 1 and a curling iron to the lock, the lock can be put in the form of an "English", the composition of formulation 1 makes it possible to shape the hairstyle, to give it a first form by applying the cosmetic composition by heating more while allowing to cool, then giving a second form by reapplying a heat source and allowing to cool again.

Example 2

The following solution B of semi-crystalline polymer is prepared: • the COPOLYMER METHACRYLIC ACID / OCTADECYL ACRYLATE (55/85) sold under the name STRUCTURE O is melted at 80 ° C; • hydrogenated isoparaffin (polyisobutene) marketed under the name Parleam by NOF Corporation is added to it, • an ACRYLATES / C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE solution marketed under the name Carbopol Ultrez 20 by the company Noveon is prepared at 0.5 % in water, • the solution of ACRYLATES / C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATE is heated to 80 ° C with stirring and the mixture ISOPARAFFINE (POLYISOBUTENE) HYDROGENEE and COPOLYMER METHACRYLIC ACID / OCTADECYLE ACRYLATE maintained at 80 ° C • the solution is then kept stirring for 15 minutes at 80 ° C. then • the solution is kept stirring until cooling. Solution B of semi-crystalline polymer is obtained comprising by weight:

1 gram of formulation composition 2 is applied uniformly to a lock (2.5 grams) of European type hair and then a straightening iron is applied at 200 ° C. to this lock: the lock is passed several times between the two arms of the iron until the cosmetic composition on the wick is dry. It is found that the iron can be easily passed several times over the wick. The deposit formed on the hair is non-sticky and homogeneous.

Example 3

Apply a solution of thioglycolic acid (1M, pH = 9, pH adjusted with ammonia). The thioglycolic acid is allowed to penetrate the core of the fiber for 5 minutes. The residual excess thioglycolic acid is sponged and possibly pre-dried. The cosmetic composition of formulation 1 is applied according to Example 1. A notching iron is heated to 180 ° C to form notches. Once the form given, the hair is gently rinsed in order to maintain the hair in the given form. Then applied a solution of hydrogen peroxide at 8 vol pH 3 (pH adjusted with critical acid), allowed to stand for 5 minutes. We rinse the hair. You get a hair with a shape (durable notches). The process steps were reproduced using a curling iron brought to 180 ° C in place of the pinking iron, and then a hair with long curly forms was obtained. Example 4 Formula 4 according to the invention Semi-crystalline polymer ¹⁾ 5.0% Perfume 0.4% N-propanol 1.0% Ethanol 20.0% Water 73.6% ¹⁾ : the semi-crystalline polymer used can be a Hexylacrylate / hexadecyl acrylate / acrylic acid emulsion copolymer as described in Examples 45 and 46 of WO 98/25710.

1 gram of composition of formula 4 can be applied uniformly to a lock (2.5 grams) of European type hair and then a straightening iron heated to 180 ° C. can be applied to this lock: the lock can be passed several times between both arms of the iron until the cosmetic composition on the wick is dry. The wick treated with the composition of formula 4 should be solid and flexible, not rigid or crumbly and not "break" when handled. By applying the composition of formula 4 and a heating iron of the curling iron type to the lock, the lock can be put in the form of an "English", the composition of formula 4 making it possible to model the hairstyle.

Claims

1. A method for shaping human hair, characterized in that it comprises the following two main stages: • applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer, • and, after a possible time pause, bring the hair into contact with a heating iron, brought to a temperature greater than or equal to 80 ° C, • the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting temperature lower than the heating temperature of the iron.

2. Hair shaping method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition contains an aqueous phase.

3. A method of shaping the hair according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises a step of breaking the disulfide bonds of the hair using a denaturing agent.

4. A method of shaping hair according to claim 3, characterized in that the denaturing agent is present at a concentration of 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

5. A method of shaping hair according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the denaturing agent is a reducing agent.

6. A method of shaping hair, according to claim 5, characterized in that the reducing agent is thioglycolic acid or cysteine, one of their salts or their esters.

7. A method of shaping hair according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the denaturing agent is an alkaline agent.

8. A method of shaping hair according to claim 7, characterized in that the alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide.

9. A method of shaping hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that it comprises, between the two main stages, a pause time of between 30 seconds and 10 minutes.

10. A method of shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that the step of bringing the hair into contact with a heating iron is carried out after partial or total drying of the hair.

1 1. Hair shaping method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following stages: - application of a reducing or alkaline agent to the hair then pause time from 1 to 30 minutes; then optional rinsing of the hair; followed by an application of the cosmetic composition comprising the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer, then contacting the hair with the heating iron; then possible break time of 15 to 30 minutes; and finally either a hair rinse; or the application of an oxidizing fixative to the hair and rinsing thereof, after a pause time of 5 to 15 minutes.

12. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: application of the cosmetic composition to the hair comprising a crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer and the reducing or alkaline agent, - then bringing the hair into contact with the heating iron; possible break time of 15 to 30 minutes after removing the iron, then either rinse the hair; possibly a rinse then application of an oxidizing fixative on the hair and rinsing thereof, after a pause time.

13. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, such that the step of bringing the hair into contact with a heating iron is carried out at a temperature between 80 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 ° C to 230 ° C.

14. A method of shaping hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the iron and an embossing or straightening iron.

15. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, such that the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer have a melting temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, better still from 40 ° C to 100 ° C and more better from 40 ° C to 80 ° C.

16. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 5,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 800,000 , preferably from 15,000 to 500,000.

17. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, - aliphatic or aromatic polyester polycondensates and copolyesters aliphatic / aromatic, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, - mixtures thereof.

18. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising from 50 to 100%> by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain (s).

19. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable chain (s) ( s) of formula X:

- M - with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone | S representing a spacer S C representing a crystallizable group I c and their mixtures, with “S-C” representing an alkyl chain with at least s 1 1 carbon atoms, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated.

20. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic, methacrylic acid , crotonic, itaconic, maleic, maleic anhydride and their mixtures.

21. Hair shaping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from ( meth) Cι ₄ -C ₂₄ saturated alkyl acrylates, Cπ-Cι perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates, Cι -C ₂₄ n-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with or without fluorine atom, vinyl esters with Cι ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers with C ₁₄ -C ₂ alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, Cι ₄ -C ₂₄ alpha-olefins, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, their mixtures.

22. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer (s) are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group C ₁₄ -C ₂ , or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

23. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer (s) are copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group in Cι ₄ -C ₂₄ with a monomer of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

24. A method of shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers comprise from 85% to 98% by weight of hydrophobic units chosen from derivatives of monomers α, β- ethylenics with a C ₁₂ -C 5 n-alkyl side chain, preferably C ₄ -C ₂₄ and from 2% to 15% of hydrophilic units derived from C ₃ -C ₆ α, β-unsaturated monocarboxylic acids or acids C ₄ unsaturated carboxylic acids. ₆ or esters or amides with a Cι alkyl chain. ₄ and the n- (Cι- ₄ alkyl) - (meth) acrylamides.

25. A method of shaping the hair according to claim 24, such that the hydrophobic units are chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₅₀ , preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ n-alkyl acrylates and n-alkyl methacrylates. C ₁₂ -C ₅₀ , preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ .

26 A method of shaping the hair according to claim 24 or 25, such that the hydrophilic units are chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, methacrylate hydroxyethyl, vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate.

27. A method of shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers comprise a semi-crystalline core of formula CX ₂ CYA and an amorphous envelope of formula CX ₂ CYB such as the first semi-Cree stallin copolymer forming the heart has at least two comonomer units of formula: CX ₂ CYA in which each X is chosen independently of one another from H, Cl or F; Y represents H, Cl, F , O (CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ ,

(CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ , (OCZ ₂ CZ ₂ ) _n CZ ₃ , or (O (CZ ₂ ) _n ) _n CZ ₃ in which n is from about 1 to about 12; Z is independently selected from H or F; A represents H, Cl or F; the first copolymer contains at least approximately 4% by weight of each of the comonomer units, and at least one of the units of the first comonomer contains a fluorine atom, and, the second amorphous copolymer forming the envelope is the reaction product of a crosslinking agent and at least two comonomer units of formula: CX ₂ CYB in which X and Y are as defined above, B represents H, Cl, F or - OCOR; wherein R is a linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and at least one of the units of the second comonomer contains a fluorine atom.

28. A method of shaping hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains a liquid fatty phase.

29. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer is in emulsion.

30. A method of shaping hair according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of crystalline (s) or semi-crystalline polymer (s) ranges from 0.005 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 10%.

3 1. A method of shaping hair, according to one of claims 2 to 30, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising ses fatty chains.

32. A method of shaping hair according to claim 3 1, such that the thickening polymer is a copolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and a C10-30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate.

33. A method of shaping the hair according to claim 3 1 or 32, such that the thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

34. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one lower alcohol (C ₁ -C ₄ in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30%) by weight, better still from 8 to 20% and even more preferably from 10 to 20%>.

35. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that the cosmetic composition comprises: • from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer; • from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight of at least one thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising fatty chains; • from 0 to 30% by weight of at least one C alcohol,. ₄ ; • some water.

36. Method for shaping the hair according to one of the preceding claims, such that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one adjuvant chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, nonionic polymers, additional anionic, cationic and amphoteric, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens, liquid or solid, solid compounds such as pigments, pearlescent or opacifying agents, dyes, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, pH regulating agents, agents neutralizers, mineral and organic thickening agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, solvents, penetration agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, oxidizing agents and reducing agents, clouding agents and preservatives.

37. Cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer having a melting temperature below the heating temperature of a heating iron, this heating temperature being greater than or equal to 80 ° C., at minus a thickening polymer of the physiologically acceptable medium comprising fatty chains.

38. Composition according to claim 37, characterized in that it contains an aqueous phase and that the thickener is a thickener of the aqueous phase.

39. Composition according to claim 37 or 38, characterized in that it contains a denaturing agent capable of breaking the disulfide bonds of the hair.

40. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the denaturing agent is present at a concentration of 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

41. Composition according to claim 39 or 40, characterized in that the denaturing agent is a reducing agent.

42. Composition according to claim 41, characterized in that the reducing agent is thio glycolic acid or cysteine or one of their salts or their esters.

43. Composition according to claim 39 or 40, characterized in that the denaturing agent is an alkaline agent.

44. A composition according to claim 43, characterized in that the alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide.

45. Compositi on according to one of claims 37 to 44, characterized in that the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

46. A composition according to one of claims 37 to 45 characterized in that the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, and more preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 100 ° C, and in particular from 40 ° C to 80 ° C.

47. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 46, characterized in that the crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer conforms to any one of claims 15 to 27.

48. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 47, characterized in that the concentration of crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer (s) ranges from 0.005 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%>, even more preferably from 0.1 to 10%>.

49. Compositi on according to one of claims 37 to 48, characterized in that the thickening polymer is a copolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and an acrylate or methacrylate of Cιo- ₃ o alkyl-

50. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 49, characterized in that the thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

51. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 50, characterized in that it comprises at least one lower alcohol in Cι -C in an amount ranging from 0, 1 to 30%) by weight, better still from 8 to 20% and even more preferably from 10 to 20%.

52. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 51, characterized in that it comprises a liquid fatty phase.

53. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 52, characterized in that it comprises: • from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer; • from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight of at least one thickening polymer of aqueous phase comprising fatty chains; • from 0 to 30% by weight of at least one C ₄ alcohol; • some water.

54. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least crystalline or semi-crystalline polymer and an iron heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 80 ° C to obtain flexible and malleable hair shaping.

55. Use according to claim 54, characterized in that the composition conforms to one of claims 37 to 53.