WO2005050150A1 - Procede de reconstitution d'une couleur cible - Google Patents

Procede de reconstitution d'une couleur cible Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005050150A1
WO2005050150A1 PCT/EP2004/012452 EP2004012452W WO2005050150A1 WO 2005050150 A1 WO2005050150 A1 WO 2005050150A1 EP 2004012452 W EP2004012452 W EP 2004012452W WO 2005050150 A1 WO2005050150 A1 WO 2005050150A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
color
textile
dyes
dye
mixture
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Application number
PCT/EP2004/012452
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English (en)
Inventor
Ingrid MÄGLI-SCHMITZ
Walter Vanerio
Original Assignee
Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc.
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Application filed by Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. filed Critical Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc.
Publication of WO2005050150A1 publication Critical patent/WO2005050150A1/fr

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    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01JMEASUREMENT OF INTENSITY, VELOCITY, SPECTRAL CONTENT, POLARISATION, PHASE OR PULSE CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRARED, VISIBLE OR ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT; COLORIMETRY; RADIATION PYROMETRY
    • G01J3/00Spectrometry; Spectrophotometry; Monochromators; Measuring colours
    • G01J3/46Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters
    • G01J3/52Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters using colour charts
    • G01J3/526Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters using colour charts for choosing a combination of different colours, e.g. to produce a pleasing effect for an observer
    • G01J3/528Measurement of colour; Colour measuring devices, e.g. colorimeters using colour charts for choosing a combination of different colours, e.g. to produce a pleasing effect for an observer using colour harmony theory

Definitions

  • the present invention deals with a process for matching a target color in accordance with the independent claim.
  • the target color desired by the designer of the brand owner may come from a variety of sources. Independent from the source of the target color, the target color is to be matched with a textile dye or with a mixture of textile dyes by determining the required amount of the respective textile dyes.
  • the color matching process is usually done by experts who are very familiar with textile dyeing, because this job requires substantial experience with textile dyes, since several requirements (such as fastness, metamerism, robustness in the production process, etc.) have to be taken into consideration during the color matching process.
  • the designer of the brand owner requires to get a physical sample representative of the matching color in order to verify whether the textile dye or mixture(s) of textile dyes determined is "sufficiently close" to the target color. For that reason, lab dyeing of a fabric sample is usually performed using the determined textile dye or mixture(s) of textile dyes, and the dyed fabric sample is then sent to the brand as the physical sample representing the matching color.
  • this object is achieved by a process as characterized by the features of the independent claim.
  • Advantageous embodiments of the process result from the features of the dependent claims.
  • the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of
  • an inkjet printer applying to a substrate by means of an inkjet printer a printing ink or a mixture of printing inks representative of the matching color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes so as to obtain a physical sample of the matching color, the inkjet printer using printing inks having the same chromophores as those contained in the textile dye or mixture of textile dyes or having different chrompohores giving identical hue
  • data representative of the target color to be matched are obtained (e.g. reflectance data, colorimetric data, other data clearly identifying the desired color). These data can be obtained in different ways, as will be specified in further detail below.
  • the data obtained are used to match the target color with a textile dye or with a mixture of textile dyes by determining the required amount of the respective textile dyes.
  • Each textile dye that is considered during matching the target color contains specific chromophores.
  • An inkjet printer is then used to apply a printing ink or a mixture of printing inks to a substrate, the printing ink or mixture of printing inks being representative of the matching color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes.
  • the inkjet printer uses printing inks having the same chromophores as those contained in the textile dye or mixture of textile dyes or having different chromophores giving identical hue.
  • the physical sample By using an inkjet printer and applying a printing ink or a mixture of printing inks to a substrate, the physical sample can be immediately produced without any significant delay once the textile dye or mixture of textile dye matching the target color has been determined.
  • the printing ink or mixture of printing inks applied to the physical sample has the same chromophores as those contained in the textile dye or mixture of textile dyes or has different chromophores giving identical hue. Therefore, the color of the physical sample truly represents the matching color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes.
  • the physical sample (the colored substrate) can be immediately forwarded to the brand owner for assessment.
  • the data representative of the target color are obtained by measuring a master having the target color.
  • This embodiment allows data representative of the target color to be obtained, even in cases where the target color is forwarded for matching merely by sending a physical sample having the target color.
  • the target color may nevertheless be measured (e.g. for verification purposes).
  • the target color is contained in a physical (i.e. printed) color catalogue comprising a selection of colors.
  • data representative of each color contained in the physical color catalogue are available. In this case it is not necessary to make a measurement of the target color (i.e. the master) contained in the physical color catalogue.
  • the data representative of the respective target color may be printed in the catalogue alongside the respective color patch, or may be available via communication networks (such as the Internet).
  • the physical color catalogue may in addition be a standard catalogue (such as RAL, etc.).
  • the data representative of the target color are obtained from a digital color catalogue.
  • a digital color catalogue is defined as any color catalogue that is available in digital form.
  • a digital color catalogue may be generated and stored on a CD, sent to the customer, and uploaded by the customer for color selection.
  • a digital color catalogue is intended to comprise a color catalogue that can be accessed via communication networks (such as the Internet), so that the various colors contained in the digital color catalogue may be displayed on a suitable display (such as a calibrated high color definition screen) for color selection.
  • the digital color catalogue may comprise only colors that fulfil the enduse performance standards (e.g. with respect to fastness, metamerism, robustness in the production process, etc.) required by the customer (e.g. brand owner). However, for each color contained in the digital color catalogue the data representative of the respective color must be available.
  • the substrate to which the printing inks are applied, in order to produce the physical sample is a textile substrate
  • the printing inks applied by the inkjet printer are textile printing inks. While it is possible to apply printing inks to a substrate other than textile (the essential requirement is that the color of the physical sample truly corresponds to the color of the determined dye or mixture of dyes matching the target color), application of textile printing inks to a textile is preferred, since in this case both the physical sample and the final product to be dyed are textile. The brand owner receiving the physical sample can then directly assess a dyed textile rather than a substrate other than textile (although the color of the substrate other than textile also truly corresponds to the color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes matching the target color).
  • the textile substrate to be dyed by means of the inkjet printer may be cotton.
  • Cotton is a substrate that is used very often and in cases where only cotton is used as the substrate, the expense is considerably lower, since the driver for the inkjet printer controlling the amount of which printing ink is to be used for dyeing the substrate, must only be able to calculate the necessary amounts of printing inks for one substrate, namely cotton.
  • the dyed cotton sample is a true representation of the color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes matching the target color, even if the final textile to be dyed is a textile other than cotton.
  • the textile dye or mixture of textile dyes matching the target color is determined using an expert system.
  • an expert system is known perse and is described, for example, in US-A-5,255,350 or in EP-A-0,527,108 or in EP-A-0,446,168 and is helpful in the determination of a textile dye or mixture of textile dyes matching the target color.
  • the step of analyzing the color of the physical sample representative of the matching color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes comprises measuring the physical sample in order to obtain data representative of the color of the physical sample. Measuring the physical sample truly representing the color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes matching the target color is an option for verification of the "closeness" of the color match at the location where the color matching job has been done. If a certain range of deviation from the target color has been specified by the customer (e.g. brand owner) as being acceptable, a verification whether or not the color matching the target color is within this range can be directly performed. In case the matching color is outside the allowed range, a rematch may be initiated prior to sending the physical sample to the customer.
  • the customer e.g. brand owner
  • a rematch is performed, preferably taking information about the amount and type of deviation of the color of the physical sample from the target color into account. Whether or not a color of a physical sample truly representing the color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes is "sufficiently close" to the target color is finally decided by the customer (e.g. brand owner). In many cases, information about the amount and type of deviation (e.g. a little brighter and a little more greener) of the matching color to the target color are communicated to the persons doing the color matching work. In this case, this information is taken into account when performing the rematch.
  • Fig. 1 shows a diagram representative of an embodiment of some essential parts of the process flow in accordance with the invention
  • Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a depth of shade plane in the FTa*b* colour space, being segmented into three triangular areas, points P1 to P5 being corner points of the triangular areas,
  • Fig. 3 is a diagram showing a depth of shade plane in the FTa*b* colour space, being segmented into twelve triangular areas, points P1 to P9 being the corner points of the triangular areas,
  • Fig. 4 shows the gridded segment having the corner points P2, P3 and P4 of Fig. 2,
  • Fig. 5 shows the gridded segment having the corner points P10, P5 and P8, wherein P5 and P8 correspond to the corresponding data of Fig. 3, and
  • Fig 6 shows the segment of Fig. 5 with a smaller number of grid points.
  • a target color - defined by the customer - must be specified. There are several possible sources of the target color.
  • the target color can come from something that is colored. That is to say, the customer may have forwarded a target color (e.g. a physical object) that has the target color. In this case, no data representative of the target color are available.
  • a target color e.g. a physical object
  • the target color may come from a physical color catalogue.
  • a physical color catalogue typically contains a large number (up to several thousands) of separate color patches, each having a different shade. Some of these color catalogues have gained the status of a standard (e.g. RAL, etc.).
  • data representative of the respective color are available. For example, these data may be available as the L*a*b*-data (CIELAB) representative of the respective color.
  • CIELAB L*a*b*-data
  • the data related to the color of a specific patch may be printed alongside the respective color patch. Alternatively, the data may be accessed via communication networks (such as the Internet). In case no data representative of the color of the respective color patches contained in the physical color catalogue are available, the physical color catalogue qualifies as "something that is colored" (see preceding paragraph).
  • the target color can come from a digital color catalogue.
  • a digital color catalogue is defined as any color catalogue that is available in digital form.
  • a digital color catalogue may be generated and stored on a CD, sent to the customer, and uploaded by the customer for color selection.
  • a digital color catalogue is meant to comprise a color catalogue that can be accessed via communication networks (such as the Internet), so that the various colors contained in the digital color catalogue may be displayed on a suitable display (such as a calibrated high color definition screen in order to provide the observer with a true impression of the respective color) for color selection.
  • the digital color catalogue usually comprises a large number (up to some thousands) of different colors.
  • each of the different colors must be available, but it is not mandatory that each of the different colors is associated with a textile dye or mixture of textile dyes that fulfils the enduse performance standards of the customer (such as regards fastness, metamerism, robustness in the production process, etc.).
  • a specific embodiment of a digital color catalogue is described in WO-A-2004/046670, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • the digital color catalogue described therein is generated such, that each of the colors contained in the digital color catalogue represents a textile dye or mixture of textile dyes that fulfils the enduse performance standards of the customer (e.g. with respect to fastness, metamerism, robustness in the production process, etc.). Accordingly, once the customer has selected one of the colors of the digital color catalogue as being the target color, then the target color automatically has a well-defined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes behind it. The generation of such a digital color catalogue will be explained in detail at the end of the specification.
  • a second step 2 the data representative of the target color must be obtained. This can be done, for example, with the aid of a spectrophotometer measuring the target color ("something that is colored", see above).
  • the output of the spectrophotometer is data representative of the target color, which data may be provided in form of reflectance values or the L*a*b*-data (CIELAB) or any other suitable data.
  • step 2 is only limited to take notice of the relevant data representative of the target color.
  • the data representative of the target color have been obtained (either by measurement or by taking notice of them), these data are forwarded to an expert system in a third step 3.
  • an expert system is available and known under the trademark COLPOCA® owned by applicants. While the data representative of the target color usually do not have a textile dye or mixture of textile dyes behind them, it is the task of the expert system (here: COLPOCA®) to determine a suitable textile dye or mixture of textile dyes that on one hand matches the target color as closely as possible and that on the other hand meets the enduse performance standards of the customer (e.g. with respect to fastness, metamerism, robustness in the production process, etc.). The expert system then determines one or more textile dyes or mixtures of textile dyes that best meets the above-mentioned requirements.
  • the color representative of each of the determined one or more textile dyes or mixtures of textile dyes is then in a fourth step 4 applied to a substrate by means of an ink-jet printer.
  • the substrate is preferably a textile fabric and more preferably a cotton fabric, as has already been mentioned above.
  • the result is, as can be seen from step 5, a fabric that is truly representative of the color of the respective textile dye or mixture of textile dyes.
  • the printing ink or mixture of printing inks used by the ink-jet printer has the same chromophores as has the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes or, alternatively, the printing ink or mixture of printing inks may have different chromophores which are giving identical hue as the afore-mentioned same chromophores. More preferably, the printing inks used are specific textile printing inks.
  • the type and/or amounts of the printing inks needed may also differ considerably in order to obtain a substrate forming a true representation of the color of the determined textile dye or mixture of textile dyes.
  • the expert system COLPOCA® determines the type and amount of printing inks to be used by the ink-jet printer.
  • COLPOCA® drives the ink-jet printer.
  • the driver may be part of the ink-jet printer and the amounts and types of printing inks needed are calculated by the driver which is part of the ink-jet printer.
  • the colored physical sample can be measured, for example by means of a spectrophotometer. Data representative of the color of the physical sample can thus be obtained. These data can be compared with the data of the target color. If the deviation of the color of the physical sample lies within a certain range, the physical sample may be sent to the customer for approval. If the color is outside that range, a rematch may be performed. This rematch may take the amount and type of the measured deviations into account during the rematching.
  • a rematch can be performed upon rejection of the physical sample by the customer as being "not sufficiently close” to the target color.
  • This rematch may take any information as to the type and amount of deviation into account that may be communicated by the customer (e.g. a little brighter, a little greener, etc.).
  • a further colored physical sample is produced with the aid of the ink-jet printer, and the thus produced colored physical sample is then again forwarded to the customer for approval until the color of the physical sample has been approved by the customer as being "sufficiently close” to the target color.
  • the reflectance curve can be produced arithmetically, starting from a recipe that has been optimised technically and in respect of the in-use fastness properties and using the stored data of calibration dyeings to calculate the associated reflectance curve.
  • the reflectance curve which is thus associated with an application-optimised dye recipe, can be visualised by means of a suitable medium, for example a calibrated colour screen, and in that manner can be used as a colour standard.
  • the procedure according to the invention accordingly differs fundamentally from the procedure customarily used in the dyeing industry, according to which the dye recipe is calculated for a predetermined, measured reflectance curve, for example the reflectance curve of a defined colour standard. In that procedure, the dye recipe is matched to the reflectance curve, which can result in the above-mentioned problems.
  • the digital colour catalogue is produced according to a method, which comprises a) drawing up a requirement profile for the desired dyeing, b) selecting a group of dyes that meet the requirement profile that has been drawn up, c) determining within the colour space the colour position of the said dyes for the desired dyeing, d) segmenting the colour space of the dyes within a depth of shade plane into triangular areas according to shade, wherein the corner points of the triangular areas correspond to the colour position of the dyes in question, and the said dyes define a range of shades delimited by the triangular areas, e) dividing the triangular areas within a depth of shade plane arithmetically into a grid in such a manner that the points of intersection of the grid are distributed evenly over the triangular areas, where the points of intersection of the grid correspond to a colour position and a reflectance curve calculated on the basis of a dye recipe is associated with each of those colour positions, and f) if desired visualising the reflectance curves associated with the colour positions by means
  • a requirement profile drawn up for the desired dyeing according to Step a) is understood to mean the definition of the properties or criteria that the dyed substrate is intended to fulfil.
  • properties or criteria are, for example, application-related properties, such as the in-use fastness properties, for example fastness to light, chlorine, rubbing, wetting, wet rubbing, washing, water, seawater or perspiration.
  • Suitable substrates are, for example, textile fibre materials, paper, plastics or metal. Further criteria in drawing up a requirement profile may also include the dyeing or printing process with which the desired dyeing is to be produced, the costs, for example of the dyes, or the pricing of the product.
  • dyeing is not limited to dyeings in the customary sense, but also includes customary printing processes.
  • the terms “dyeing” and “dyed substrate” accordingly include both customary dyeing processes and customary printing processes and the coloured objects or substrates produced by means of such processes, respectively.
  • a group of dyes is selected that meet the defined requirement profile and cover the colour space as well as possible.
  • a group of dyes is understood to mean, for example, three or more dyes.
  • the selected dyes should also be readily combinable with one another, for example when dyeing cotton they should exhibit similar exhaust behaviour.
  • the number of colours in the colour catalogue that can be derived arithmetically is thus dependent inter alia upon the location of the selected dyes in the colour space, that is to say the number increases with the size of the colour space covered by the selected dyes.
  • the selection of the dyes is advantageously made by a person skilled in the field of dyeing.
  • colour space can be used, for example, the known CIE Lab colour coordinate system, the lightness axis L* being replaced by the depth of shade characteristic FT.
  • the advantage of that procedure is that colour positions of identical depth of shade or of identical colour strength lie in one plane of the colour space.
  • the individual planes of the colour space are defined by the pairs of values a*, b*, which correspond to the values of the same name in the CIE Lab colour coordinate system.
  • the a*, b* value pairs characterise the hue and the colour saturation, which are known to the person skilled in the art from the field of colour communication or colorimetrics and constitute a measure of the shade.
  • colour saturation the specialist literature also uses the terms "chroma” or "colour brilliance”.
  • a suitable depth of shade characteristic FT is, for example, the standard depth, as described, for example, in P. Rabe and O. Koch, Melliand Textilberichte 38 (1957) pages 173 to 177.
  • the standard depth can be indicated not only in the known 2/1, 1/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12 and 1/25 depths, but also further sub-divided, for example in steps of 1/10 standard depth or smaller. Depth of shade characteristics are known to the person skilled in the art of textile dyeing.
  • the colour positions of the selected dyes must be determined according to Step c), preferably in the FTa*b* colour space, thus defining the colour space for the subsequent steps.
  • the colour positions of the dyes suitable for the desired dyeing are so selected that they lie on a plane of identical depth of shade, for example on a plane defined by the pairs of values a*, b*.
  • the colour positions are ascertained from calibration data. If the calibration data are not known, these must first be ascertained by measurement using a commercially available colorimetric apparatus, for example a commercially available spectral photometer.
  • the depth of shade characteristic FT can be ascertained, for example, from a standard depth colour chart.
  • a standard depth chart or a corresponding concentration curve is produced in a manner known perse for each of the selected dyes, for example for the five dyes indicated in Fig. 2 which follows.
  • the known depth of shade plane thus establishes the concentration of each dye to use for that depth of shade plane.
  • the planes of the FTa*b* colour space are segmented into triangular areas according to step d), the corner points of the triangular areas corresponding to the colour position of the dyes that were selected for the desired dyeing in accordance with the requirement profile.
  • the individual triangular areas of each depth of shade plane do not overlap.
  • Each colour position in the colour space is defined by a single dye recipe, which consists, for example, of one dye when the desired colour position corresponds to the FTa*b* data of a single dye, or the recipe is a mixture of, for example, two dyes when the desired colour position lies on the usually non- straight line connecting two dyes, or the recipe is a mixture of, for example, three dyes where the ratio of those three dyes corresponds to the point of intersection of a regular grid superimposed arithmetically over the triangular areas according to step e).
  • the dyes selected for the segmentation may themselves already be mixtures of dyes, for example a mixture of two or three dyes, that is to say, for example, that a corner point of the triangular area already corresponds to the colour position of a dye mixture. In that case also, the colour positions of the mixtures must first be ascertained from calibration data.
  • step e) colour positions for the selected dye combination are calculated for a defined depth of shade FT, which colour positions are spaced at regular intervals across the range of shades defined by the a*,b* value pairs, that is to say the depth of shade plane is divided into a grid. Each grid point corresponds to a specific concentration ratio between the selected dyes and thus to a specific dye recipe.
  • Fig. 2 shows the segmentation of the colour space in a depth of shade plane into three segments, the reference numerals P1 to P5 corresponding to the FTa*b* data of the selected dyes Yellow 1 (P1), Yellow 2 (P2), Red (P3), Blue 1 (P4) and Blue 2 (P5).
  • Fig. 3 is a further example of the segmentation of the colour space in a depth of shade plane into twelve segments, the reference numerals P1 to P9 corresponding to the FTa*b* data of the selected dyes Yellow 1 (P1), Yellow 2 (P2), Orange 1 (P3), Orange 2 (P4), Red 1 (P5), Red 2 (P6), Blue 1 (P7), Blue 2 (P8) and Blue 3 (P9).
  • the connecting lines shown in Figs. 2 and 3 are the result of mixing, in each case, two dyes in specific amounts at a predetermined depth of shade, the end points of the connecting lines corresponding to the colour positions of the selected dyes.
  • Fig. 4 shows a single segment. It is the triangular area produced by points P2, P3 and P4 in Fig. 2.
  • the connecting lines between points P2, P3 and P4 are the colour positions of each of the two-component mixtures.
  • the grid that has been superimposed over the entire triangular area defines colour positions of mixtures having different concentration ratios.
  • Points P2, P3 and P4 define the colour positions of the respective dyes in concentrations C 2 , C 3 and C 4 .
  • the grid is produced by interpolating series of mixtures between the single dyes in such a manner that the given spacing of the grid is obtained.
  • the conversion between K/S values and reflectance values is made using the customary procedure according to Kubelka-Munk, as indicated, for example, in Colour Physics for Industry, Ed. R. McDonald, Society of Dyers and Colourists (1987), Chapter 5, 116 ff. In that procedure, the reflectance spectrum and the concentrations of the dyes are stored for each calculated grid point.
  • Fig. 5 shows a different segment made up of the dyes P10, P5 and P8.
  • a grid was calculated in the same manner for the triangular area. Points P5 and P8 correspond to points P5 and P8 of Fig. 3.
  • the spacings between the grid points can be preselected. The smaller the spacings, the more colour positions can be determined within a triangular area.
  • the depth of shade plane defined by a triangular area corresponds, for example, to a trichromy at a depth of shade, the corner points of the triangular area corresponding to the colour positions selected for the trichromy. It is thus possible to regulate the number of colours per trichromy and thus also the number of colours in the catalogue.
  • Fig. 6 shows the same segment as Fig. 5, the difference being that the spacing between the grid points is twice as large and thus the number of colour positions determined is reduced
  • Figs. 2 to 6 show a plane of the FTa*b* colour space.
  • the depth of shade characteristic FT of those planes corresponds, for example, to a 2/3 standard depth.
  • the reflectance curve and the amounts of dye required to dye a specific substrate in that depth of shade are known.
  • the dye concentration depends, for example, on the dye itself, the depth of shade sought, the application procedure and the substrate to be dyed or printed.
  • the colour positions corresponding to the points of intersection of the grid are in each case associated with a reflectance curve.
  • Behind each reflectance curve lies a specific dye recipe, that is to say instructions for the dyer as to the ratio in which the dyes that are to be combined with one another are to be mixed in order to obtain a dyeing that corresponds to the reflectance spectrum ascertained and that meets the requirement profile defined in advance according to a).
  • the catalogue which meets the requirement profile defined in advance according to a) is made up of all the reflectance spectra calculated for all the segments in the given depths of shade.
  • the reflectance spectra ascertained do not, of course, give the observer any impression of colour.
  • Step f that is to say the implementation of an operation by means of which the reflectance curve is first brought into a format that enables the corresponding colour to be rendered visible using a suitable apparatus.
  • Suitable apparatuses for visualising the reflectance curves are, for example, a colour-calibrated screen, such as a cathode ray tube apparatus or a liquid crystal flat screen, a colour-calibrated projection apparatus or a colour-calibrated inkjet printer. It is preferred to use a colour-calibrated screen.
  • the calculated reflectance spectra are formatted in such a manner that they can be imported into a commercially available colour communication system, for example Colorite ImageMaster by Datacolor or Color Talk by GretagMacbeth.
  • a commercially available colour communication system for example Colorite ImageMaster by Datacolor or Color Talk by GretagMacbeth.
  • the spectra can be shown as real colours.
  • the user for example a colour designer, can then look for colours in the catalogue that come closest to his colour original, which may be an idea of a colour, and that meet the previously defined requirements, and obtains the associated reflectance curves which correspond to specific dye recipes.
  • the recipes obtained are used for dyeing.
  • the desired colour can be found easily by the person skilled in the art of dyeing by suitable adaptation of the dye recipe.
  • a computer is advantageously used.
  • the computer is also used to store and manage the data obtained.
  • the stored reflectance curves can be provided with a title that contains the dyes used, the substrate and process data and a serial code number.
  • the dye recipe associated with the reflectance curves can be recalculated or stored in a recipe data bank.
  • the described method is not limited to specific dyes or specific substrates.
  • Dyes of a wide variety of dye classes can be used, irrespective of whether they are water-soluble or disperse dyes. Preference is given to disperse dyes, acid dyes, metal complex dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes, sulfur dyes, direct dyes and pigments, and also to cationic dyes. Also suitable are natural dyes, developing dyes, such as naphthol dyes, and food dyes.
  • the described method is suitable for any desired substrate, that is to say the digital colour catalogue can be produced for dyeings on any desired substrates and, accordingly, the catalogue produced by the method according to the invention can be used for dyeing any desired substrates.
  • the desired dyeing according to a) is thus preferably a dyeing on leather or on textile fibre materials, for example silk, wool, polyamide fibres, polyurethane fibres, cellulosic fibre materials, such as cotton, linen and hemp, and viscose and cellulose, polyester fibres, polyacrylic fibres and mixtures of the fibre materials mentioned, for example mixtures of cotton and polyester fibres or polyamide fibres.
  • textile fibre materials for example silk, wool, polyamide fibres, polyurethane fibres, cellulosic fibre materials, such as cotton, linen and hemp, and viscose and cellulose, polyester fibres, polyacrylic fibres and mixtures of the fibre materials mentioned, for example mixtures of cotton and polyester fibres or polyamide fibres.
  • substrates are paper, films and metals, for example polymer-coated aluminium. Preference is given to leather and to textile fibre materials, especially to textile fibre materials.
  • the desribed method thus makes it possible to provide in a digital colour catalogue a large number of reflectance curves calculated on the basis of previously optimised dye recipes.
  • the number of reflectance curves and recipes is virtually unlimited since the corresponding data are produced arithmetically and not on the basis of dyeings.
  • the number of colours of a conventional colour catalogue can be exceeded in the manner according to the invention by a factor of from 10 to 20.
  • a further advantage is that the catalogue can be produced flexibly without difficulty for requirements that have been defined in advance, which is not possible with conventional colour catalogues.
  • Example 1 The following Examples serve to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope thereof.
  • Example 1 The following Examples serve to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope thereof.
  • the calibration data of the dyes are ascertained for the dyeing for which the colour catalogue is being produced.
  • a polyamide-6.6 fibre material Helanka tricot
  • the dyeings are measured by spectral photometry and the CIE Lab colour coordinates are determined.
  • the depths of shade for the individual dyeings are ascertained in known manner.
  • the depths of shade and the associated a* and b* data yield the colour position of the above- mentioned dyes in the FTa*b* colour space.
  • the colour space is then segmented within a depth of shade plane. Such segmentation is shown for a pale shade within a depth of shade plane in Fig. 2, where P1 corresponds to the colour position of the yellow dye of formula (101 ) for that dyeing; P2 corresponds to the colour position of the yellow dye of formula (102); P3 corresponds to the colour position of the red dye of formula (103); P4 corresponds to the colour position of the blue dye mixture of the dyes of formulae (104) and (105); and P5 corresponds to the colour position of the blue dye of formula (106).
  • the triangular area in that depth of shade plane is divided arithmetically into a grid.
  • the triangular area corresponds to the area having the corner points P2, P3 and P4.
  • the gridded triangular area is shown in Fig. 4.
  • Colour positions P2, P3 and P4 of the selected dyes in that depth of shade plane correspond to 0.13 % by weight of the yellow dye of formula (102) for P2, 0.173 % by weight of the red dye of formula (103) for P3 and 0.194 % by weight of the blue dye mixture of the dyes of formulae (104) and (105) for P4.
  • the individual grid points on the connecting lines and within the triangular area correspond to specific concentration ratios between the dyes of formulae (102), (103), (104) and (105), that is to say to a specific dye recipe, from which the corresponding reflectance curves are calculated.
  • the reflectance curves are stored in a data bank and formatted in such a manner that they can be imported into a commercially available colour communication system.
  • the stored data are rendered visible as colours using a calibrated colour screen.
  • a user is looking for a pale violet shade which he can use to dye polyamide-6.6 fibre material. He decides upon the shade denoted by Px in Fig. 4, which he locates quickly on the screen.
  • the dye recipe for the colour is recalculated by way of the corresponding reflectance curve and displayed.
  • the recipe is as follows: 0.0247 % by weight of the yellow dye of formula (102),
  • the dye recipe calculated is used to dye polyamide-6.6 fibre material in accordance with the exhaust dyeing process in a liquor ratio of 18:1.
  • the colour of the dyed fabric is identical in terms of shade, colour saturation and depth of shade to the shade from the catalogue that was determined arithmetically.
  • the calibration data of the dyes are ascertained for the dyeing for which the colour catalogue is being produced.
  • cotton tricot is dyed using the reactive dyes specified above in different concentrations in accordance with the exhaust process at 60°C in a liquor ratio of 10:1.
  • the dyeings are measured by spectral photometry and the CIE Lab colour coordinates are determined.
  • the depths of shade for the individual dyeings are ascertained in known manner.
  • the depths of shade and the associated a* and b* data yield the colour position of the dyes specified above in the FTa*b* colour space.
  • the colour space is then segmented within a depth of shade plane. Such segmentation is shown for a medium shade within a depth of shade plane in Fig. 3, where P1 corresponds to the colour position of the yellow dye of formula (107) for that dyeing; P2 corresponds to the colour position of the yellow dye of formula (109); P3 corresponds to the colour position of the orange dye mixture of the dyes of formulae (110), (111) and (112); P4 corresponds to the colour position of the orange dye of formula (113); P5 corresponds to the colour position of the red dye of formula (115); P6 corresponds to the colour position of the red dye of formula (114); P7 corresponds to the colour position of the blue dye of formula (116); P8 corresponds to the colour position of the blue dye of formula (117); and P9 corresponds to the colour position of the blue dye mixture of the dyes of formulae (117) and (118).
  • P1 corresponds to the colour position of the yellow dye of formula (107) for that dyeing
  • P2 corresponds to the colour position of the
  • the triangular area in that depth of shade plane is divided arithmetically into a grid.
  • the triangular area corresponds to the area having the corner points P10, P5 and P8.
  • the colour position P10 for the yellow dye of formula (108) is not shown in Fig. 3.
  • the gridded triangular area is shown in Fig. 5.
  • the colour positions P10, P5 and P8 of the selected dyes in that depth of shade plane correspond to 1.51 % by weight of the yellow dye of formula (108) for P10, 3.43 % by weight of the red dye of formula (115) for P5 and 2.84 % by weight of the blue dye of formula (117) for P8.
  • the individual grid points on the connecting lines and within the triangular area correspond to specific concentration ratios between the dyes of formulae (108), (115) and (117), that is to say to a specific dye recipe, from which the corresponding reflectance curves are calculated.
  • the reflectance curves are stored in a data bank and formatted in such a manner that they can be imported into a commercially available colour communication system.
  • the stored data are rendered visible as colours using a calibrated colour screen.
  • a user is looking for a dull orange shade which he can use to dye cotton tricot. He decides upon the shade denoted by Px in Fig. 5, which he locates quickly on the screen.
  • the dye recipe for the colour is recalculated by way of the corresponding reflectance curve and displayed. The recipe is as follows:
  • the dye recipe calculated is used to dye cotton tricot in accordance with the exhaust dyeing process in a liquor ratio of 10:1.
  • the colour of the dyed fabric is identical in terms of shade, colour saturation and depth of shade to the shade from the catalogue that was determined arithmetically.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Spectroscopy & Molecular Physics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Theoretical Computer Science (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Spectrometry And Color Measurement (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention porte sur un procédé de reconstitution d'une couleur cible comportant les étapes suivantes: (i) obtention de données représentatives de la couleur cible à reconstituer; (ii) mise en correspondance de la couleur cible avec une teinture textile ou un mélange de teintures textiles, en en déterminant les quantités respective requises; (iii) application à un substrat à l'aide d'une imprimante à jets d'encre, d'une encre ou d'un mélange d'encres équivalants à une teinture textile ou à un mélange de teintures textiles pour obtenir un échantillon physique de la couleur à reproduire, les encres d'impression présentant les mêmes chromophores que ceux des teintures textiles; et (iv) analyse de la couleur de l'échantillon physique pour déterminer si elle est suffisament proche de la couleur cible.
PCT/EP2004/012452 2003-11-10 2004-11-04 Procede de reconstitution d'une couleur cible WO2005050150A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP03405799 2003-11-10
EP03405799.2 2003-11-10

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2005050150A1 true WO2005050150A1 (fr) 2005-06-02

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2004/012452 WO2005050150A1 (fr) 2003-11-10 2004-11-04 Procede de reconstitution d'une couleur cible

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007102173A1 (fr) * 2006-03-09 2007-09-13 Ramesh Datla Générateur de cartes de coloris tridimensionnelles
US7370540B2 (en) 2005-06-17 2008-05-13 Jungheinrich Aktiengesellschaft Rotation angle sensor, in particular for an electrical steering system of an industrial truck
WO2009034401A1 (fr) * 2007-09-10 2009-03-19 Datla, Ramesh Nuances de couleur de concepteur par un utilitaire de simulation par ordinateur

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4029419A (en) * 1975-10-10 1977-06-14 International Business Machines Corporation Textile color analyzer calibration
US4522491A (en) * 1979-09-17 1985-06-11 Ingalls Marjorie D Method for reproducing one or more target colors on photographic paper or the like
WO2000044569A2 (fr) * 1999-01-29 2000-08-03 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Procede et appareil d'impression numerique
DE10113373A1 (de) * 2001-03-20 2002-10-24 Kbc Manufaktur Koechlin Baumga Verfahren zur Formulierung von Rezepten für den Textildruck

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4029419A (en) * 1975-10-10 1977-06-14 International Business Machines Corporation Textile color analyzer calibration
US4522491A (en) * 1979-09-17 1985-06-11 Ingalls Marjorie D Method for reproducing one or more target colors on photographic paper or the like
WO2000044569A2 (fr) * 1999-01-29 2000-08-03 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Procede et appareil d'impression numerique
DE10113373A1 (de) * 2001-03-20 2002-10-24 Kbc Manufaktur Koechlin Baumga Verfahren zur Formulierung von Rezepten für den Textildruck

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7370540B2 (en) 2005-06-17 2008-05-13 Jungheinrich Aktiengesellschaft Rotation angle sensor, in particular for an electrical steering system of an industrial truck
WO2007102173A1 (fr) * 2006-03-09 2007-09-13 Ramesh Datla Générateur de cartes de coloris tridimensionnelles
WO2009034401A1 (fr) * 2007-09-10 2009-03-19 Datla, Ramesh Nuances de couleur de concepteur par un utilitaire de simulation par ordinateur

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