WO2003091371A1 - Novel polymeric surfactant and cosmetic material - Google Patents

Novel polymeric surfactant and cosmetic material Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003091371A1
WO2003091371A1 PCT/JP2002/004220 JP0204220W WO03091371A1 WO 2003091371 A1 WO2003091371 A1 WO 2003091371A1 JP 0204220 W JP0204220 W JP 0204220W WO 03091371 A1 WO03091371 A1 WO 03091371A1
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Prior art keywords
group
weight
cosmetic material
silicone oil
alcohol
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2002/004220
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Nariyoshi Koga
Naomichi Yamada
Yasumi Koinuma
Jean Rossow
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Nof Corporation
Ets B. Rossow Et Cie
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Application filed by Nof Corporation, Ets B. Rossow Et Cie filed Critical Nof Corporation
Priority to PCT/JP2002/004220 priority Critical patent/WO2003091371A1/en
Priority to JP2003587907A priority patent/JP4400215B2/en
Publication of WO2003091371A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003091371A1/en

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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L71/00Compositions of polyethers obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L71/02Polyalkylene oxides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G65/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G65/02Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule from cyclic ethers by opening of the heterocyclic ring
    • C08G65/26Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule from cyclic ethers by opening of the heterocyclic ring from cyclic ethers and other compounds
    • C08G65/2603Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule from cyclic ethers by opening of the heterocyclic ring from cyclic ethers and other compounds the other compounds containing oxygen
    • C08G65/2606Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule from cyclic ethers by opening of the heterocyclic ring from cyclic ethers and other compounds the other compounds containing oxygen containing hydroxyl groups
    • C08G65/2609Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule from cyclic ethers by opening of the heterocyclic ring from cyclic ethers and other compounds the other compounds containing oxygen containing hydroxyl groups containing aliphatic hydroxyl groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24Thermal properties
    • A61K2800/244Endothermic; Cooling; Cooling sensation
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G2650/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G2650/28Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming an ether link in the main chain of the macromolecule characterised by the polymer type
    • C08G2650/34Oligomeric, e.g. cyclic oligomeric

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a polymeric surfactant, and a cosmetic material using that polymeric surfactant. More specifically, it relates to a skin cosmetic material having a moisture-retaining effect and a favorable feeling in use. This invention also concerns a hair cosmetic material having an excellent hair-conditioning effect and an excellent performance in use.
  • humectants include glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, maltitol, urea, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid or sodium lactate, amino acid, chitosan, hydrolyzed collagen, and hydrolyzed wheat protein.
  • oily ingredients blended for providing emollient properties e.g., liquid paraffin or triglycerides
  • cyclic polysilicones which are less oily, are often used as a base agent for cosmetic materials.
  • cyclic polysilicones have poor compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients (e.g., surfactants), and the formulation is extremely difficult to prepare.
  • hair cosmetic materials important performance criteria include spreadability, smooth finger touch upon application, smooth finger touch after use, and a favorable feeling after drying.
  • alkylpolyalkylene glycol ether, silicone derivatives, and perfluoro polyether have been used as hair cosmetic materials having the conditioning function, but no satisfactory feeling in use or satisfactory feeling after use have yet been obtained.
  • an object of the invention to provide a skin cosmetic material capable of providing a sufficient moisture-retaining effect to skin, as well as a smooth feeling in use and a refreshed feeling after use. Furthermore, it is an object of the invention to provide a hair cosmetic material having excellent hair conditioning effect as well as an excellent performance in use.
  • a polymeric surfactant comprises a polyoxyalkylene branched alkyl ether having a following formula (1) :
  • X is hydrogen, hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group, acyloxy group, allyl group, or 0(C n H 2n O) z B group;
  • R is a hydrocarbon group having 8 to 200 carbon atoms and having two or more branched chains of at least 1 carbon atom; n is an integer of from 2 to 4; m is an integer of from 2 to 100; z is an integer of from 0 to 100;
  • A is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group
  • B is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group.
  • a cosmetic material includes at least one of the polymeric surfactants and an aqueous ingredient.
  • a cosmetic material includes at least one of the polymeric surfactants and an oily ingredient.
  • a cosmetic material includes 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant, 10 to 95% by weight of an oily ingredient, and 0.05 to 80% by weight of an aqueous ingredient.
  • the oily ingredient includes one or more oily ingredients, selected from the group consisting of isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, polyether modified silicone oil, polyoxyalkylene modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, cyclic polysilicone oil, modified silicone oil, and dimethyl silicone oil.
  • a hair cosmetic material including a surfactant of the invention is also provided.
  • a polymeric surfactant of the present invention has a following formula (1).
  • the R moiety is lipophilic and the 0(C n H 2n O) m A group is hydrophilic .
  • R is a hydrocarbon group with 8 to 200 carbon atoms having two or more branched chains of one or more carbon atoms.
  • the moisture-retaining effect is insufficient when the number of carbon atoms is less than 8, and the surfactant is difficult to handle when the number of carbon atoms exceeds 200.
  • the number of carbon atoms of the branched chain is preferably 1 to 3, since dispersability is worsened when it is 4 or more.
  • the number of the branched chains is preferably from 3 to 99, more preferably from 5 to 55. A feeling of lightness is impaired when the number of the branched chains is less than 2.
  • hydrocarbon groups suitable for R include isobutene homopolymers, copolymers of isobutene and n-butene, liquid copolymers of an olefin having 4 carbon atoms (such as isobutene and n-butene) with an olefin having 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms, and ⁇ -olefin oligomer- or propylene oligomer- derived moieties, all of which are unsaturated hydrocarbons having two or more branched chains in the molecule.
  • X is hydrogen, a hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group, acyloxy group, allyl group or 0(C n H 2n O) z B group.
  • the 0 (C n H 2n O) Z B group is suitable for improving the moisture-retaining effect .
  • n is suitably 2 to 4.
  • the hydrophilicity is poor when m is less than 2 and the lipophilicity is lowered when m exceeds 100.
  • Z is an integer of 0 to 100, more preferably, 0 to 50. If z exceeds 100, the lipophilicity is lowered.
  • A, B are hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group, independently.
  • a preferred hydrophilic moiety is a polymer in which n is 2 (polyoxyethylene) , 3 (polyoxypropylene) , or 4
  • n and m can be adjusted to provide the number of carbon atoms needed for the hydrophilicity or the lipophilicity, depending on the possible application of the aimed cosmetic material.
  • the polymeric surfactant according to the present invention can be produced by reacting an lipophilic group (such as isobutene homopolymer, copolymer of isobutene and n-butene, or a liquid copolymer of an olefin having 4 carbon atoms and an olefin having 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms ⁇ -olefin oligomer and propylene oligomer) with ethylene oxide, polyethylene glycol, propylene oxide, propylene glycol, butylene oxide, or butylene glycol.
  • an lipophilic group such as isobutene homopolymer, copolymer of isobutene and n-butene, or a liquid copolymer of an olefin having 4 carbon atoms and an olefin having 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms ⁇ -olefin oligomer and propylene oligomer
  • the surfactant can be produced by epoxidation of the starting olefin, hydrolysis, and addition of ethylene oxide or the like to the hydroxyl group in the olefin using an acid catalyst or a basic catalyst.
  • the aqueous ingredient of the present invention has a moisture-retaining function, and also functions as a dispersant for a pigment, if such a pigment is used, and as a binding agent.
  • aqueous ingredient examples include humectants such as alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol; polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 3-methyl-l, 3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerines, sorbitol, andmaltitol ; amino acids such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, L-arginine and trimethyl glycine; polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chitosan; mucosaccharides, 2-methacryloyl oxyethyl phosphorylcholine-containing polymer, water soluble polymers, urea, lactic acid or sodium lactate, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and cucumber extract. One or more of them may
  • the oily ingredient of the present invention provides adherence to skins, a moisture-retaining function, and protection effect for skins without impairing the feeling in use when used as cosmetic materials. Also, it can act as a solvent for other oily ingredients, such as solid waxes or high molecular weight silicones .
  • oily ingredient examples include such as beeswax, candelilla wax, vaseline, lanoline, ceresine, olive oil, squalane, mineral oils, natural animal and vegetable oils, essential oils, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba wax, liquid and/or solid wax-esters and their derivatives derived from animal, vegetable, or fish or synthetic oils, jojoba oil, monoglyceride, diglyceride, triglyceride, and higher alcohols; alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol and hexyldodecyl alcohol; diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin monostearate, polyglyceride fatty acid esters, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, liquidparaffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane,
  • oily ingredient of the present invention preferred to use one or more oily ingredients, such as, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, higher fatty acid modified silicone oil, dimethyl silicone oil , various modified silicone oils.
  • oily ingredients such as, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, higher fatty acid modified silicone oil, dimethyl silicone oil , various modified silicone oils.
  • the isoparaffinic hydrocarbons include, for example, isobutene homopolymer, copolymer of isobutene and n-butene, and a liquid copolymer of an olefin of 4 carbon atoms (such as isobutene or n-butene) and an olefin of 2, 3, or 5 carbon atoms.
  • the isoparaffinic hydrocarbons canbe used for cosmetic applications, and for that use, the isobutene homopolymer or copolymer of isobutene and n-butene with an iodine number reduced to 10 or less by hydrogenation is preferred.
  • ternary copolymer of isobutene, n-butene, and an olefin having carbon atoms other than four can be also used, thus a polynary copolymer also containing an olefin having carbon atoms other four can be used.
  • the cosmetic material of the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant and the aqueous ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant and 0.05 to 30% by weight of the aqueous ingredient. Further, it may contain 1 to 80% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic material according to the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant and the oily ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant and 5 to 95% by weight of the oily ingredient . Further, itmaycontain 5 to 90% by weight of water.
  • the polymeric surfactant is preferably from 0.5 to 501 based on the isoparaffinic hydrocarbon .
  • the cosmetic material according to the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant, the oily ingredient, and the aqueous ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant, 10 to 95% by weight of the oily ingredient, and 0.05 to 80% by weight of the aqueous ingredient. More preferably, the polymeric surfactant is from 0.5 to 30% of the cosmetic material. When the surfactant is less than 0.5%, the emulsifying effect for the oily ingredient and the aqueous ingredient is inadequate. When the surfactant is more than 50%, no additional effect can be obtained.
  • the oily ingredient is preferably from 10 to 95% and, more preferably, 30 to 85% by weight of the cosmetic material. When it is less than 10%, the skin coating is insufficient. When it is more than 95%, a sticky feeling develops .
  • the moisture-retaining cosmetic material for hair, skin, and nail careof the present invention may also include, in addition to the essential ingredients described above, body pigments, organic or inorganic pigments, and surface-treated product of such powders; UN-absorbent ; UV-scattering agent ; pharmaceutical ingredients such as but not limited to hair depilatory as well as proteins, glucids, lipids and their derivatives, dandruff remover, whitener, antiperspirant , hair growing agent, analgesic/anti-inflammatory agent and blood flow promoter; surfactants such as anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants; and other additives such as water, fatty acids or higher fatty acids and their derivatives, Garbet alcohols, dyes, aromatics, antiseptics, pH conditioners, thickeners, antioxidants, chelating agent and various kinds of organic and inorganic finely particulated powder in the form of liquid, cream, emulsion, gel, mousse
  • the moisture-retaining cosmetic material for hair, skin and nail care of the present invention is applicable, for example, to drugs, quasi-drugs, and cosmetic products.
  • the cosmetic material can be applied in the dosage form such as emulsion, cream, pack, massage material, cosmetic foundation and UV-ray protective agent.
  • the hair cosmetic material is useful for use in setting products, such as aerosol hair spray, pump type hair spray, foam hair spray, hair mist set lotion, hair styling and hair oil as well as conditioning products such as shampoo, rinse, permanent liquid and hair treatment in the form of powder, liquid, cream, emulsion, gel or mousse.
  • the cosmetic material according to the present invention may be produced by emulsifying or mixing with a stirrer that utilizes any possible principles, such as high pressure and ultrasonic.
  • the stirrer includes, but not limited to, a homogenizer, a homo-mixer, or a mill.
  • the polymeric surfactant according to the present invention is used not only for cosmetics for skin, hair or nail care but also for various fields in which the surfactant is required.
  • the surfactant is advantageously used for foaming agent, disfoaming agent, cleanser, dispersing agent, osmotic agent, smoothing agent , antistatic agent, lubricant, toner binder, rust inhibitor, remover, adhesive, plasticizer, etc.
  • Example 1 Method of preparing polymeric surfactant
  • the polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether had the structure of the formula (2) , which is a certain form of formula (1) :
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group with 16 carbon atoms having five methyl branches .
  • n is 2 and m+z is 18.
  • polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C24-10) ether was produced by using an isobutene oligomer having an iodine number 50 (polymerization degree 6, ten branched chains each of one or more carbon atoms in average) as the startingmaterial
  • polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C20-7) ether was produced by using an isobutene oligomer having an iodine number 57 (polymerization degree 5, seven branched chains having one or more carbon atoms in average) as the starting material
  • polyoxyethylene (16) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether and polyoxyethylene (24) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether were produced by changing the added mol number of
  • a liquid mixture prepared in the following formulation was shaken slightly. After slightly shaking an aqueous layer, the mixture was emulsified at HOOOrpm for 30 min using a homogenizer
  • a liquid emulsion including the surfactant according to the present invention was prepared in the following formulation and its dispersibility was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Surfactant in table 1 1 wt% Aqueous phase rpurified water 80 wt%
  • the surfactants and the oily ingredients were placed in a beaker in the formulation shown in Table 2 and dissolved and blended under heating at from 80 to 85°C. Then, the mixture was stirred with a stirrer at the rotation number of 300 rpm. Then purified water preheated to from 80 to 85°C was gradually added to form an emulsion, which was cooled to a room temperature . Then, aqueous ingredient was added and mixed sufficiently to obtain a test emulsion. The humectant was added and mixed thoroughly to obtain a test composition. The stability of the emulsion and the moisture-retaining property for the corneum layer and feeding in use of the test composition were evaluated.
  • the moisture-retaining property of the emulsion prepared in the Examples and the Comparative Examples were evaluated in an average of data in the following experiment by 10 subjects.
  • the experiment was conducted in a thermo and moisture stable chamber at a temperature of 20°C and humidity of 30% in order to keep the circumstances constant.
  • the water content of keratinous layer at the inner side of a forearm of each subject without applying a test composition was measured with an epidermal corneum water content measuring apparatus and the measured value was taken as an initial value.
  • a predetermined amount of the test composition was applied to the same region and corneum water content after 120 minutes was measured.
  • the moisture-retaining property was evaluated based on the increment for the corneum water content, which is corneum water content after the 120 min. /corneum water content before application (initial value) x 100(%)).
  • the evaluation standard is as follows: Evaluation standard
  • increment for corneum water content 10 to less than 30(%)
  • x increment for corneum water content ⁇ 10(%)
  • the feeling of the test composition after application was evaluated by 10 panelists.
  • Feeling in use of the composition was judged based on the number of panelists who felt sticky feeling in use by the following evaluation criteria.
  • the emulsions blended with the polymeric surfactant of the Examples had excellent stability and the moisture-retaining property and provided excellent feeling with less stickiness.
  • the moisture-retaining effect could be obtained, the feeling in use was impaired.
  • Example 4 Cold cream A trial cold cream blended with the polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 was prepared and evaluated.
  • the prepared cold cream was excellent in both the moisture-retaining property and the feeling in use.
  • Example 5 Lotion 1 A trial lotion blended with polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 was prepared and evaluated.
  • the lotion prepared according to the present invention had favorable spreadability and refreshing feeling upon application to the skin.
  • the lotion protected the skin for a long period of time and was not washed out easily, forexample, by water washing . Further, the skin cosmetic lotion was less adhesive to any object when it was touched with a lotion-coated hand.
  • Example 1 of the present invention A trial lotion blended with polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 of the present invention was prepared and evaluated.
  • dimethyl polysiloxane (trade name of products: KF 96, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co. , 10 cSt) , 5% by weight of olive oil and an appropriate amount of perfume were dissolved into 15% by weight of a light liquid isoparaffin and added to a solution formed by dissolving 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether in 10% by weight of 1,3-butylene glycol and emulsified and then the emulsion was added to 62% by weight of purified water to obtain a lotion.
  • dimethyl polysiloxane trade name of products: KF 96, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co. , 10 cSt
  • olive oil and an appropriate amount of perfume were dissolved into 15% by weight of a light liquid isoparaffin and added to a solution formed by dissolving 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether in 10% by weight of 1,3-butylene glyco
  • the lotion prepared according to the present invention showed favorable spreadability and had refreshing feeling upon application to the skin, protected the skin for a long period of time and was not washed out easily, forexample, by water washing . Further, it was a skin cosmetic material with less deposition to any object when touched by a lotion-coated hand.
  • Examples 7-1 to 3 Comparative Examples 7-1 to 2: Hair cream Hair creams as hair cosmetic material were prepared in the formulation of Table 3 and evaluated.
  • Hair conditioning was practiced by 10 subjects using the sample of the hair creams. Then, the subjects made sensory evaluation for stickiness, flexibility, and good combing property by themselves.
  • somewhat poor (4 or more and less than 6 of the persons answered that there was no stickiness)
  • x poor (less than 4 of the panelists answered that there was no stickiness) .
  • somewhat poor (4 or more and less than 6 of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness)
  • x poor (less than 4 of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness)
  • the moisture-retaining cosmetic material including the polymeric surfactant according to the present invention has moisture-retaining effect to the skin and provides excellent feeling inuse. Further, the cosmeticmaterial provides excellent feeling in use also to hair.

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Abstract

The present invention provides a polymeric surfactant comprising a polyoxyalkylene branched alkyl ether and a cosmetic material including such a polymeric surfactants. The cosmetic material has moisture-retaining effect and provides excellent feeling in use. The cosmetic material is preferably used for a skin cosmetic, a hair cosmetic, and a nail care cosmetic.

Description

P E S C I PT I O N
NOVEL POLYMERIC SURFACTANT AND COSMETIC MATERIAL
Field of the Invention
This invention relates to a polymeric surfactant, and a cosmetic material using that polymeric surfactant. More specifically, it relates to a skin cosmetic material having a moisture-retaining effect and a favorable feeling in use. This invention also concerns a hair cosmetic material having an excellent hair-conditioning effect and an excellent performance in use.
Background Art
Most skin troubles are attributed to the loss of the skin's elasticity and the loss of the skin' s moisture-retaining function . Such losses are caused by a reduction in water content of the skin keratin layer, which serves as a barrier membrane of living bodies. Humectants have been mixed in cosmetics to prevent such a reduction in water content . Examples of such humectants include glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, maltitol, urea, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid or sodium lactate, amino acid, chitosan, hydrolyzed collagen, and hydrolyzed wheat protein.
However, when a moisture-retaining ingredient is blended in an amount sufficient to obtain a moisture-retaining effect, the moisture-retaining ingredient gives a sticky feeling, rather than a moistened feeling. Therefore, it has been difficult to obtain cosmetic materials that provide a smooth feeling during use and that provide a refreshing feeling and moistening effect after use.
Further, oily ingredients blended for providing emollient properties (e.g., liquid paraffin or triglycerides) increase, rather than reduce, the sticky feeling caused by the humectants. Therefore, cyclic polysilicones, which are less oily, are often used as a base agent for cosmetic materials. However, cyclic polysilicones have poor compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients (e.g., surfactants), and the formulation is extremely difficult to prepare.
As for hair cosmetic materials, important performance criteria include spreadability, smooth finger touch upon application, smooth finger touch after use, and a favorable feeling after drying.
As disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-230614, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-230615, and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No.4-247014, alkylpolyalkylene glycol ether, silicone derivatives, and perfluoro polyether have been used as hair cosmetic materials having the conditioning function, but no satisfactory feeling in use or satisfactory feeling after use have yet been obtained.
It is, accordingly, an object of the invention to provide a skin cosmetic material capable of providing a sufficient moisture-retaining effect to skin, as well as a smooth feeling in use and a refreshed feeling after use. Furthermore, it is an object of the invention to provide a hair cosmetic material having excellent hair conditioning effect as well as an excellent performance in use.
Brief Summary of the Invention
The present inventors have made earnest studies for solving the above problems and have found a composition that includes a specific surfactant that has improved compatibility with the oily ingredients and the aqueous ingredients, and that is useful as an excellent cosmetic material for hair, skin, and nail care that satisfies the above demands. According to the invention, a polymeric surfactant comprises a polyoxyalkylene branched alkyl ether having a following formula (1) :
X-R-0(CnH2nO)mA (1) wherein
X is hydrogen, hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group, acyloxy group, allyl group, or 0(CnH2nO)zB group;
R is a hydrocarbon group having 8 to 200 carbon atoms and having two or more branched chains of at least 1 carbon atom; n is an integer of from 2 to 4; m is an integer of from 2 to 100; z is an integer of from 0 to 100;
A is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group; and
B is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group.
A cosmetic material includes at least one of the polymeric surfactants and an aqueous ingredient.
A cosmetic material includes at least one of the polymeric surfactants and an oily ingredient.
A cosmetic material includes 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant, 10 to 95% by weight of an oily ingredient, and 0.05 to 80% by weight of an aqueous ingredient.
The oily ingredient includes one or more oily ingredients, selected from the group consisting of isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, polyether modified silicone oil, polyoxyalkylene modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, cyclic polysilicone oil, modified silicone oil, and dimethyl silicone oil.
A hair cosmetic material including a surfactant of the invention is also provided.
Detailed Description of the Preferred Embodiments
The present invention is now described in details.
A polymeric surfactant of the present invention has a following formula (1).
X-R-0(CnH2nO)mA (1)
The R moiety is lipophilic and the 0(CnH2nO)mA group is hydrophilic .
R is a hydrocarbon group with 8 to 200 carbon atoms having two or more branched chains of one or more carbon atoms. The moisture-retaining effect is insufficient when the number of carbon atoms is less than 8, and the surfactant is difficult to handle when the number of carbon atoms exceeds 200. The number of carbon atoms of the branched chain is preferably 1 to 3, since dispersability is worsened when it is 4 or more. The number of the branched chains is preferably from 3 to 99, more preferably from 5 to 55. A feeling of lightness is impaired when the number of the branched chains is less than 2.
Examples of hydrocarbon groups suitable for R include isobutene homopolymers, copolymers of isobutene and n-butene, liquid copolymers of an olefin having 4 carbon atoms (such as isobutene and n-butene) with an olefin having 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms, and α-olefin oligomer- or propylene oligomer- derived moieties, all of which are unsaturated hydrocarbons having two or more branched chains in the molecule.
X is hydrogen, a hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group, acyloxy group, allyl group or 0(CnH2nO)zB group. Among them, the 0 (CnH2nO) ZB group is suitable for improving the moisture-retaining effect .
In the 0(CnH2nO)zA and 0 (CnH2nO) ZB groups as a hydrophilic moiety, n is suitably 2 to 4. Production of the surfactant becomes difficult when n is 4 or more, m is 2 to 100, preferably 4 to 50. The hydrophilicity is poor when m is less than 2 and the lipophilicity is lowered when m exceeds 100. Z is an integer of 0 to 100, more preferably, 0 to 50. If z exceeds 100, the lipophilicity is lowered.
A, B are hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group, independently.
A preferred hydrophilic moiety is a polymer in which n is 2 (polyoxyethylene) , 3 (polyoxypropylene) , or 4
(polyoxybutylene) , and the total of m and z is from 2 to 100.
The combination of n and m can be adjusted to provide the number of carbon atoms needed for the hydrophilicity or the lipophilicity, depending on the possible application of the aimed cosmetic material.
The polymeric surfactant according to the present invention can be produced by reacting an lipophilic group (such as isobutene homopolymer, copolymer of isobutene and n-butene, or a liquid copolymer of an olefin having 4 carbon atoms and an olefin having 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms α-olefin oligomer and propylene oligomer) with ethylene oxide, polyethylene glycol, propylene oxide, propylene glycol, butylene oxide, or butylene glycol.
More specifically, the surfactant can be produced by epoxidation of the starting olefin, hydrolysis, and addition of ethylene oxide or the like to the hydroxyl group in the olefin using an acid catalyst or a basic catalyst. The aqueous ingredient of the present invention has a moisture-retaining function, and also functions as a dispersant for a pigment, if such a pigment is used, and as a binding agent. Examples of aqueous ingredient include humectants such as alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol; polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 3-methyl-l, 3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerines, sorbitol, andmaltitol ; amino acids such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, L-arginine and trimethyl glycine; polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chitosan; mucosaccharides, 2-methacryloyl oxyethyl phosphorylcholine-containing polymer, water soluble polymers, urea, lactic acid or sodium lactate, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and cucumber extract. One or more of them may be blended for use. Particularly, trimethyl glycine, glycerin, sorbitol, and ethanol are preferred in view of the moisture-retaining effect and the feeling in use.
The oily ingredient of the present invention provides adherence to skins, a moisture-retaining function, and protection effect for skins without impairing the feeling in use when used as cosmetic materials. Also, it can act as a solvent for other oily ingredients, such as solid waxes or high molecular weight silicones .
Examples of the oily ingredient include such as beeswax, candelilla wax, vaseline, lanoline, ceresine, olive oil, squalane, mineral oils, natural animal and vegetable oils, essential oils, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba wax, liquid and/or solid wax-esters and their derivatives derived from animal, vegetable, or fish or synthetic oils, jojoba oil, monoglyceride, diglyceride, triglyceride, and higher alcohols; alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol and hexyldodecyl alcohol; diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin monostearate, polyglyceride fatty acid esters, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, liquidparaffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, higher fatty acid modified silicone oil, dimethyl silicone oil , various modified silicone oils . , ethers, LPG, fluorocarbons, N-methylpyrrolidone, furon, fluoro alcohol, and lipo-soluble polymers.
For the oily ingredient of the present invention preferred to use one or more oily ingredients, such as, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, higher fatty acid modified silicone oil, dimethyl silicone oil , various modified silicone oils.
The isoparaffinic hydrocarbons include, for example, isobutene homopolymer, copolymer of isobutene and n-butene, and a liquid copolymer of an olefin of 4 carbon atoms (such as isobutene or n-butene) and an olefin of 2, 3, or 5 carbon atoms. The isoparaffinic hydrocarbons canbe used for cosmetic applications, and for that use, the isobutene homopolymer or copolymer of isobutene and n-butene with an iodine number reduced to 10 or less by hydrogenation is preferred. Further, ternary copolymer of isobutene, n-butene, and an olefin having carbon atoms other than four can be also used, thus a polynary copolymer also containing an olefin having carbon atoms other four can be used.
The cosmetic material of the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant and the aqueous ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant and 0.05 to 30% by weight of the aqueous ingredient. Further, it may contain 1 to 80% by weight of water. The cosmetic material according to the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant and the oily ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant and 5 to 95% by weight of the oily ingredient . Further, itmaycontain 5 to 90% by weight of water. When the oily ingredient includes isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, the polymeric surfactant is preferably from 0.5 to 501 based on the isoparaffinic hydrocarbon .
The cosmetic material according to the present invention that includes the polymeric surfactant, the oily ingredient, and the aqueous ingredient preferably contains 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant, 10 to 95% by weight of the oily ingredient, and 0.05 to 80% by weight of the aqueous ingredient. More preferably, the polymeric surfactant is from 0.5 to 30% of the cosmetic material. When the surfactant is less than 0.5%, the emulsifying effect for the oily ingredient and the aqueous ingredient is inadequate. When the surfactant is more than 50%, no additional effect can be obtained. The oily ingredient is preferably from 10 to 95% and, more preferably, 30 to 85% by weight of the cosmetic material. When it is less than 10%, the skin coating is insufficient. When it is more than 95%, a sticky feeling develops .
The moisture-retaining cosmetic material for hair, skin, and nail careof the present invention may also include, in addition to the essential ingredients described above, body pigments, organic or inorganic pigments, and surface-treated product of such powders; UN-absorbent ; UV-scattering agent ; pharmaceutical ingredients such as but not limited to hair depilatory as well as proteins, glucids, lipids and their derivatives, dandruff remover, whitener, antiperspirant , hair growing agent, analgesic/anti-inflammatory agent and blood flow promoter; surfactants such as anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants; and other additives such as water, fatty acids or higher fatty acids and their derivatives, Garbet alcohols, dyes, aromatics, antiseptics, pH conditioners, thickeners, antioxidants, chelating agent and various kinds of organic and inorganic finely particulated powder in the form of liquid, cream, emulsion, gel, mousse or powder in such an appropriate amount not to impair the effect of the composition .
The moisture-retaining cosmetic material for hair, skin and nail care of the present invention is applicable, for example, to drugs, quasi-drugs, and cosmetic products. The cosmetic material can be applied in the dosage form such as emulsion, cream, pack, massage material, cosmetic foundation and UV-ray protective agent. The hair cosmetic material is useful for use in setting products, such as aerosol hair spray, pump type hair spray, foam hair spray, hair mist set lotion, hair styling and hair oil as well as conditioning products such as shampoo, rinse, permanent liquid and hair treatment in the form of powder, liquid, cream, emulsion, gel or mousse.
The cosmetic material according to the present invention may be produced by emulsifying or mixing with a stirrer that utilizes any possible principles, such as high pressure and ultrasonic. The stirrer includes, but not limited to, a homogenizer, a homo-mixer, or a mill.
The polymeric surfactant according to the present invention is used not only for cosmetics for skin, hair or nail care but also for various fields in which the surfactant is required. For example, the surfactant is advantageously used for foaming agent, disfoaming agent, cleanser, dispersing agent, osmotic agent, smoothing agent , antistatic agent, lubricant, toner binder, rust inhibitor, remover, adhesive, plasticizer, etc.
Examples Although this invention is explained more detail referring to Examples and Comparative Examples, the invention is not restricted to such examples. All the blended amounts in the Examples are expressed by weight%.
Example 1: Method of preparing polymeric surfactant
To a 500 ml SUS autoclave equipped with a stirrer, a reflux condenser, a thermometer, and an introduction line for ethylene oxide, was charged 50g of an isobutene oligomer having an iodine number 72 (having polymerization degree 4, five branched chains of one or more carbon atoms in average) . Then, under vigorous stirring, 100 g of previously prepared peracetic acid was added at 20°C or lower for one hour. Then, 1% by weight of sulfuric acid, based on the entire amount , was added and aged. After aging for 2 hours, the mixture was heated to 60°C and reacted for 10 hours. After cooling to 40°C immediately after the reaction, the lower layer of the aqueous acetic acid solution was removed from the resultant liquid mixture. 100 g of an aqueous 1% solution of sulfuric acid was added and reacted at 95°C for 10 hours . After cooling to 60°C immediately after the reaction, the lower layer of the aqueous sulfuric acid solution was removed by washing with water for neutralization. Then, residual water was removed by distillation under a reduced pressure. To the resultant compound in the autoclave was added 3 g of potassium hydroxide and the compound was directly warmed to 140°C, and 176 g of ethylene oxide (an amount corresponding 18 mol ethylene oxide to 1 mol isobutene oligomer) was continuously introduced to react . After completing the introduction ofl76gofethylene oxide for 2 hours, the reactant was aged for one hour. Pressure was removed and the contents were taken out of the autoclave, washed with water for neutralization, and dewatered to obtain 220 g polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether.
The polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether had the structure of the formula (2) , which is a certain form of formula (1) :
H(OCnH2n)zO-R-0(CnH2nO)mH (2) R represents a hydrocarbon group with 16 carbon atoms having five methyl branches . n is 2 and m+z is 18. In similar methods, polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C24-10) ether was produced by using an isobutene oligomer having an iodine number 50 (polymerization degree 6, ten branched chains each of one or more carbon atoms in average) as the startingmaterial, polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C20-7) ether was produced by using an isobutene oligomer having an iodine number 57 (polymerization degree 5, seven branched chains having one or more carbon atoms in average) as the starting material, and polyoxyethylene (16) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether and polyoxyethylene (24) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether were produced by changing the added mol number of ethylene oxide.
When the thus produced samples were analyzed on NMR, it was confirmed that they had predetermined number of branched carbon atoms and the added mol number of ethylene oxide and that they were aimed products.
Examples 2-1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 2-1 to 3: Emulsion 1
A liquid mixture prepared in the following formulation was shaken slightly. After slightly shaking an aqueous layer, the mixture was emulsified at HOOOrpm for 30 min using a homogenizer
(T-25 type, manufactured by IKA RABORTECHNIK) . Surfactants used in the Examples and the Comparative Examples are shown in Table 1. A homogeneous liquid of milky color was observed with naked eyes just after the emulsification. The stability after stationary standing for 24 hours was evaluated.
A liquid emulsion including the surfactant according to the present invention was prepared in the following formulation and its dispersibility was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
Formulation: Oily ingredient :isobutylene oligomer*1 1 wt% : dimethyl silicone*11 1 wt% : ethyl alcohol 2 wt% rpropylene glycol 15 wt%
Surfactant : surfactant in table 1 1 wt% Aqueous phase rpurified water 80 wt%
1 n=4, iodine number = 0.1 *12~ viscosity 2cst.
TABLE 1
Figure imgf000013_0001
*a POE (20) hardened castor oil (trade name of HCO-20, manufactured by
Nippon Surfactant Industry Co.)
*b Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (trade name of Nonion P213, manufactured by NOF CORPORATION)
*c Polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (trade name of Nonion K204, manufactured by NOF CORPORATION)
(Evaluation)
O : stably dispersed x : separated in two layers The results show that a more stable emulsion can be prepared by using the polymeric surfactant according to the present invention compared with the existing surfactant.
Examples 3-1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 3-1 to 3: Emulsion 2
The surfactants and the oily ingredients were placed in a beaker in the formulation shown in Table 2 and dissolved and blended under heating at from 80 to 85°C. Then, the mixture was stirred with a stirrer at the rotation number of 300 rpm. Then purified water preheated to from 80 to 85°C was gradually added to form an emulsion, which was cooled to a room temperature . Then, aqueous ingredient was added and mixed sufficiently to obtain a test emulsion. The humectant was added and mixed thoroughly to obtain a test composition. The stability of the emulsion and the moisture-retaining property for the corneum layer and feeding in use of the test composition were evaluated.
(Stability) Emulsified state after leaving for three days at 25°C was evaluated by visual observation.
(Evaluation for moisture-retaining property)
The moisture-retaining property of the emulsion prepared in the Examples and the Comparative Examples were evaluated in an average of data in the following experiment by 10 subjects. The experiment was conducted in a thermo and moisture stable chamber at a temperature of 20°C and humidity of 30% in order to keep the circumstances constant. At first, the water content of keratinous layer at the inner side of a forearm of each subject without applying a test composition was measured with an epidermal corneum water content measuring apparatus and the measured value was taken as an initial value. A predetermined amount of the test composition was applied to the same region and corneum water content after 120 minutes was measured. The moisture-retaining property was evaluated based on the increment for the corneum water content, which is corneum water content after the 120 min. /corneum water content before application (initial value) x 100(%)). The evaluation standard is as follows: Evaluation standard
O : increment for corneum water content > 30(%)
Δ : increment for corneum water content 10 to less than 30(%) x : increment for corneum water content < 10(%)
(Evaluation for feeling in use)
For feeling in use, the feeling of the test composition after application was evaluated by 10 panelists. Feeling in use of the composition was judged based on the number of panelists who felt sticky feeling in use by the following evaluation criteria.
Evaluation standard:
OO : less than 2 panelists felt sticky
O : 2 to less than 5 panelists felt sticky
Δ : 5 or more and less than 8 panelists felt sticky x : 8 or more persons felt sticky
o ^_^
O
CM o a ϋ
(^v c
GO o — < < cc
( ) a) c rr _c c o
C3 > o <u
>. _. o _)
_.
-> o E c
E c ϋ o ϋ
E o o
E ϋ ϋ ro m
_ _
•* n σ> en en o ^ o
E » !- c (- ra c α>
o c o ω o —
' — r >. it- o
" x o
E o
(/) ϋ
<a o
Figure imgf000016_0001
* * * As apparent from Table 2 above, the emulsions blended with the polymeric surfactant of the Examples had excellent stability and the moisture-retaining property and provided excellent feeling with less stickiness. In the Comparative Examples, although the moisture-retaining effect could be obtained, the feeling in use was impaired.
Example 4 : Cold cream A trial cold cream blended with the polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 was prepared and evaluated.
3% by weight of polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether, 34% by weight of purified polyisobutene (trade name of products: Parleam 6, manufactured by Nippon Oil and Fats Co.), 10% by weight of beeswax, 6% by weight of cetyl alcohol, 4.6% by weight of lanoline, 5% by weight of isopropyl myristate, 3% by weight of monoglyceride, 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (trade name of Nonion LT22, manufactured by Nippon Oil and Fats Co. ) , 4% by weight of propylene glycol, 0.1% by weight of potassium hydroxide, 0.5% by weight of perfume and corrosion inhibitor, and 26.8% by weight of water were blended and emulsified to prepared a cold cream.
The prepared cold cream was excellent in both the moisture-retaining property and the feeling in use.
Example 5: Lotion 1 A trial lotion blended with polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 was prepared and evaluated.
10% by weight of liquid isoparaffin, 5% by weight of polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether, 60% by weight of cyclic polysilicone (trade name of KF994, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co.), 20% by weight of dimethyl polysiloxane (trade name of KF96L, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co., 5 cst/25°C ) , and 5% by weight of methylphenyl polysiloxane (trade name of KF56, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co. ) was stirred and dissolved at 70 to 80°C and then cooled down to prepare a lotion .
The lotion prepared according to the present invention had favorable spreadability and refreshing feeling upon application to the skin. The lotion protected the skin for a long period of time and was not washed out easily, forexample, by water washing . Further, the skin cosmetic lotion was less adhesive to any object when it was touched with a lotion-coated hand.
Example 6: Lotion 2
A trial lotion blended with polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether prepared in Example 1 of the present invention was prepared and evaluated.
5% by weight of dimethyl polysiloxane (trade name of products: KF 96, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co. , 10 cSt) , 5% by weight of olive oil and an appropriate amount of perfume were dissolved into 15% by weight of a light liquid isoparaffin and added to a solution formed by dissolving 3% by weight of polyoxyethylene (18) branched alkyl (C16-5) ether in 10% by weight of 1,3-butylene glycol and emulsified and then the emulsion was added to 62% by weight of purified water to obtain a lotion.
The lotion prepared according to the present invention showed favorable spreadability and had refreshing feeling upon application to the skin, protected the skin for a long period of time and was not washed out easily, forexample, by water washing . Further, it was a skin cosmetic material with less deposition to any object when touched by a lotion-coated hand. Examples 7-1 to 3, Comparative Examples 7-1 to 2: Hair cream Hair creams as hair cosmetic material were prepared in the formulation of Table 3 and evaluated.
(Function test)
Hair conditioning was practiced by 10 subjects using the sample of the hair creams. Then, the subjects made sensory evaluation for stickiness, flexibility, and good combing property by themselves.
(1) Evaluation standard for stickiness:
OO : excellent (8 or more of the panelists answered that there was no stickiness), O : good (6 or more and less than 8 of the persons answered that there was no stickiness),
Δ : somewhat poor (4 or more and less than 6 of the persons answered that there was no stickiness), x : poor (less than 4 of the panelists answered that there was no stickiness) .
(2) Evaluation standard for flexibility:
OO : excellent (8 or more of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness), O : good (6 or more and less than 8 of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness),
Δ : somewhat poor (4 or more and less than 6 of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness) , x : poor (less than 4 of the panelists answered that there was no stiffness)
(3) Evaluation for combing:
OO : excellent (8 or more of the panelists answered that combing was good) , O : good (6 or more and less than 8 of the panelists answered that combing was good) ,
Δ : somewhat poor (4 or more and less than 6 of the panelists answered that combing was good) , x : poor (less than 4 of the panelists answered that combing was good)
(4) Scalp stimulation:
O : none (8 or more of the panelists answered that there was no stimulation) , x : some stimulation (4 or more and less than 8 of the panelists answered that there was some sense of uncomfortable at scalps)
TABLE 3
Figure imgf000020_0001
*a Liquid isoparaffin (trade name of parleam 4, manufactured by NOF CORPORATION)
*b Dimethyl silicone (trade name of KF96L, manufactured by Shinetsu Silicone Co. )
*c POE (80) hardened castor oil (trade name of Uniox HC-60, manufactured by NOF CORPORATION) In summary, the moisture-retaining cosmetic material including the polymeric surfactant according to the present invention has moisture-retaining effect to the skin and provides excellent feeling inuse. Further, the cosmeticmaterial provides excellent feeling in use also to hair.

Claims

Claims :
1 . A polymeric surfactant compri ses a polyoxyal kylene branched al kyl ether having a fol lowing formula ( 1 ) :
X-R-0 ( CnH2nO) mA ( 1 ) wherein
X is hydrogen, hydroxyl group, amino group, carboxyl group, acyloxy group, allyl group, or 0(CnH2nO)zB group; R is a hydrocarbon group having 8 to 200 carbon atoms and having two or more branched chains of at least 1 carbon atom; n is an integer of from 2 to 4; m is an integer of from 2 to 100; z is an integer of from 0 to 100; A is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group; and
B is hydrogen, methyl group, ethyl group, or allyl group.
2. A cosmeticmaterial comprising at least one or more polymeric surfactants of claim 1 and an aqueous ingredient.
3. A cosmeticmaterial comprising at least one or more polymeric surfactants of claim 1 and an oily ingredient.
4. A cosmetic material comprising 0.5 to 50% by weight of the polymeric surfactant of claim 1, 10 to 95% by weight of an oily ingredient, and 0.05 to 80% by weight of an aqueous ingredient.
5. A cosmetic material of claim 3 or 4, wherein the oily ingredient includes one or more oily ingredients selected from beeswax, candelilla wax, vaseline, lanoline, ceresine, olive oil, squalane, mineral oils, natural animal and vegetable oils, essential oils, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba wax, liquid and/or solid wax-esters and their derivatives derived from animal, vegetable, or fish or synthetic oils, jojoba oil, monoglyceride, diglyceride, triglyceride, and higher alcohols; alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol and hexyldodecyl alcohol; diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin monostearate, polyglyceride fatty acid esters, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, cyclic polysilicones, tetramethyl tetrahydrogen cyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified silicone oil, methylphenyl silicone oil, amino silicone oil, higher fatty acid modified silicone oil, dimethyl silicone oil, various modified silicone oils., ethers, LPG, fluorocarbons,
N-methylpyrrolidone, furon, fluoro alcohol, and lipo-soluble polymers .
6. A hair cosmetic material comprising a surfactant of claim 1.
PCT/JP2002/004220 2002-04-26 2002-04-26 Novel polymeric surfactant and cosmetic material WO2003091371A1 (en)

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