WO2003032930A1 - Shampooing conditionneur - Google Patents

Shampooing conditionneur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003032930A1
WO2003032930A1 PCT/EP2002/011117 EP0211117W WO03032930A1 WO 2003032930 A1 WO2003032930 A1 WO 2003032930A1 EP 0211117 W EP0211117 W EP 0211117W WO 03032930 A1 WO03032930 A1 WO 03032930A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
acid
fatty
wax
alkyl
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PCT/EP2002/011117
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Claus Nieendick
Heike Kublik
Werner Seipel
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Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg
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Publication of WO2003032930A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003032930A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/445—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof aromatic, i.e. the carboxylic acid directly linked to the aromatic ring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the invention relates to conditioning shampoos containing surfactants, cation polymers and predispersed wax dispersions with defined particle sizes and to a process for the cold production of conditioning shampoos.
  • Conditioners in modern hair care and detergents are used to prevent and partially compensate for hair damage caused by increased environmental influences or frequent washing. They are intended to improve the combability, the shine and the feel of the hair.
  • Cationic surfactants preferably those of the esterquat type, which give the hair a pleasant soft feel and reduce the static charge between the fibers, or cationic polymers are frequently used for this purpose.
  • cationic surfactants and polymers already have very good application properties, there is a need in the market for a continuously improved performance profile. For this reason, the use of silicones and silicone derivatives for conditioning has also become established - as described in a representative manner in patent applications WO 97/14396, EP 555 690 A1 and EP 555691 A1.
  • EP 468 721 B1 discloses the combination of cationic polymers with silicones with a particle size of less than 2 ⁇ m in diameter with the aim of increasing the deposition of the silicone particles on the hair and reducing the immediate rinsing off of the particles. The particles must be small enough to ensure a stable suspension in the formulation.
  • EP 904 046 B1 describes conditioning agents in shampoos which consist of non-volatile silicones with an average particle size below 4 ⁇ m.
  • the object of the invention was to provide silicone-free shampoos which are characterized by improved conditioning properties, but which do not show a build-up effect of the conditioning agent due to repeated deposition after repeated washing.
  • the shampoo should have good foaming kinetics and foam stability, high physico-chemical stability and should be easy to manufacture.
  • the invention relates to silicone-free, conditioning shampoos containing
  • shampoos of the composition mentioned have a very good conditioning effect. They improve the combability, manageability and grip properties of washed hair without tending to build-up effects with frequent hair washing.
  • the wax dispersions as conditioning agents are deposited on the hair in sufficient quantities to develop their conditioning effect, but do not build up as a deposit with frequent hair washing.
  • the average particle size of the predispersed wax dispersions which shows an optimal conditioning effect for particle sizes between 0.1 and 4 ⁇ m, is essential for the balance between deposit and rinsing potential. The small particle size ensures good foaming kinetics and high foam stability.
  • the physico-chemical stability of the formulation which is significantly influenced by the particle size, is also optimal with this particle size. Furthermore, when using the predispersed wax dispersions, the manufacture of shampoos is quick and easy, even using the cold process possible. The conditioning effect is enhanced in a synergistic manner by the combination of cationic polymers with the predispersed wax dispersions.
  • Anionic and / or nonionic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants can be present as surfactants, the proportion of the detergents being from 3 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35 and in particular from 10 to 30% by weight.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, mono-ether sulfate sulfates, hydroxymethane sulfate sulfates
  • ether Fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters,
  • Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar oxides, sorbitan esters, sorbitan sorbitan. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • the surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), “Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylene amine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as, for example, Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as, for example, Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers e.g. Mirapol
  • Cation polymers are used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.02 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 2% by weight.
  • the average molecular weights of the cation polymers should be between 5000 and 1,000,000, preferably between 8,000 and 500,000 and particularly preferably between 10,000 and 400,000.
  • Cationic guar gum and / or quaternized ammonium salt polymers are particularly preferred as cation polymers.
  • the proportion of the wax bodies contained in the wax dispersions is 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight and particularly preferably 20 to 30% by weight, based on the predispersed wax dispersion, which in turn is present in the shampoos according to the invention in amounts of 0. 5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 9% by weight and particularly preferably in amounts of 4 to 8% by weight.
  • Possible wax bodies in the wax dispersions are: alkylene glycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, partial glycerides, esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers, fatty carbonates, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkylene glycol esters which form the preferred wax bodies are usually mono- and / or diesters of alkylene glycols which follow the formula (I)
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or R 1 CO
  • A is a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • n is a number of 1 to 5
  • typical examples are mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, as are: caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid , Capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elae
  • R 3 CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 4 represents hydrogen or an optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • B represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methylpropanolamine and dipropanolamine and their mixtures with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, oleostic acid, oleostic acid Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • the use of stearic acid ethanolamide is particularly preferred.
  • Partial glycerides represent mono and / or diesters of glycerol with linear, saturated and / or partially unsaturated fatty acids, for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, taig fatty acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and their technical mixtures. They follow the Formula (III), CH 2 0 (CH 2 CH 2 0) x -COR 5
  • R 5 CO is an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably a linear, saturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 and R 7 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 5 CO, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30
  • X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal with the proviso that at least one of the two radicals R 6 and R 7 represents hydrogen.
  • Typical examples are lauric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid diglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid triglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride,
  • Partial glycerides should, however, only be contained in the wax dispersions up to a maximum of 10% by weight based on the total proportion of the wax bodies, because in increasing amounts they increase the viscosity of the wax dispersions at elevated storage temperatures (35 to 45 ° C).
  • Further preferred wax groups are esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • suitable acid components of these esters are malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and in particular succinic acid and malic acid, citric acid and in particular tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.
  • Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenolyl alcohol, linoleolyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures.
  • the esters can be present as full or partial esters, preferably mono- and especially diesters of carboxylic or hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Typical examples are succinic acid mono- and -dilaurylester, succinic acid mono- and -dicetearlyester, succinic acid mono- and -distearyiester, tartaric acid mono- and -dilaurylester, tartaric acid mono- and dicocoalkyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and -dicetearyl ester, citric acid and mono-, , di and tricoco alkyl esters and mono-, di and tricetearyl citrates.
  • fatty alcohols can be used which follow the formula (IV) R 8 0H (IV)
  • R 8 represents a linear, optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkyl radical and / or acyl radical having 16 to 48, preferably 18 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • suitable alcohols are cetearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and oxidation products of long-chain paraffin.
  • Fat ketones which are considered as components preferably follow the formula (V),
  • R 9 and R 10 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • the ketones can be prepared by methods known in the art, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts.
  • the ketones can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, but the two radicals R 13 and R 14 preferably differ only by one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Fatty aldehydes suitable as wax bodies preferably correspond to the formula (VI)
  • R 11 CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 24 to 48, preferably 28 to 32, carbon atoms.
  • R 12 and R 13 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, provided that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms
  • fatty ethers of the type mentioned are usually obtained by acidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols.
  • Fat ethers with particularly advantageous pearlescent properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.
  • Fatty carbonates, preferably of the formula (VIII) are also suitable as components,
  • R 14 and R 15 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • the substances are obtained by transesterifying, for example, dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with the corresponding fatty alcohols in a manner known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates can be constructed symmetrically or asymmetrically. However, carbonates are preferably used in which R 14 and R 15 are identical and represent alkyl radicals having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Transesterification products of dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol in the form of their mono- and diesters or their technical mixtures are particularly preferred.
  • the epoxy ring opening products are known substances which are usually produced by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefin epoxides with aliphatic alcohols.
  • the reaction products preferably follow the formula (IX)
  • R 16 and R 17 represent hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of R 16 and R 17 is in the range from 10 to 20 and R 18 represents an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or the radical of a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • Typical examples are ring opening products of ⁇ -dodecenepoxide, ⁇ -hexadecenepoxide, ⁇ -octadecenepoxide, -eicosene epoxide, -docosenepoxide, i-dodecenepoxide, i-hexadecenepoxide, i-octadecenepoxide, i-eicosenepoxide and / or i-docoholalkanol epoxy with lauryl alcoholose epoxy with lauryl alcoholose epoxy with lauryl alcoholose epoxy with lauryl alcoholose epoxide , Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linoiyl alcohol, linolenyl
  • Ring opening products of hexa- and / or octadecene epoxides with fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • polyols are, for example, the following substances: glycerol; Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl giu
  • the particle sizes of the wax dispersions have a significant influence on the conditioning properties and the physico-chemical stability of the preparations.
  • they have to be average particle sizes in the dispersions of 0.1 to 4 ⁇ m, preferably 0.5 to 3 ⁇ m and particularly preferably 1 to 2.5 ⁇ m.
  • the conventional methods for dispersion production known to the person skilled in the art are selected.
  • the particle sizes can be set by varying the loading of the dispersions in high-pressure homogenizers.
  • wax bodies are to be selected which have a melting point or. Have melting range from 50 to 85 ° C, preferably from 55 to 70 ° C.
  • the particle sizes were determined using the Coulter LS 230 laser particle analyzer from Beckman Coulter.
  • the device also uses the PIDS (polarized intensity differential scattering) method to expand the measuring range to the submicron range.
  • the laser generates light with a wavelength of 750 nm, which is supplemented by the wavelengths 450, 600 and 900 nm using PIDS technology.
  • the 132 detectors have a total measuring range of 0.04 - 2000 ⁇ m, which is divided into 116 size classes.
  • the software evaluates either according to the Oberhofe diffraction theory or the scattered light theory according to Mie.
  • the average particle size data given relate to the Dso value of the volume distribution.
  • the measured samples were diluted by a factor of 100 by the sample feed module, with demineralized water serving as the dispersing medium.
  • the sample feed module ensures constant circulation of the dispersed sample through the measuring cell.
  • the circulating sample was subjected to an ultrasound treatment of 30 s. This was done by an ultrasound module from Beckman Coulter connected to the measuring device was carried out exclusively according to Mie scattered light theory using a refractive index of 1.47 for the dispersed medium.
  • the silicone-free conditioning shampoos according to the invention are in a two-stage
  • the wax dispersions are produced according to relevant processes, with the wax bodies usually melting and then cooling after one
  • the pre-dispersed wax dispersions can then in a second step by simple
  • Melting point of the wax body takes place in order not to change the particle sizes.
  • the mixing process should therefore take place at temperatures below 40 ° C., preferably below 30 ° C. and particularly preferably below 25 ° C.
  • Embodiments of the silicone-free, conditioning shampoos according to the invention contain:
  • the shampoos according to the invention preferably contain
  • the shampoo mentioned can contain, as further auxiliaries and additives, emulsifiers, consistency enhancers, thickeners, polymers, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, anti-dandruff agents, hydrotropes, film formers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the investment reaction is carried out.
  • Ci2 / 18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations,
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride,
  • sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesqui -tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Gare® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostear
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate
  • fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active Compounds understood which, in addition to a C ⁇ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S ⁇ 3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl
  • Bentonites such as e.g. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate.
  • Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-decomposed polyacrylamide and polyethylenethacrylate acrylate and with polyesters, non-crosslinked acrylamide and with polyesters, uncommonized acrylamide and with polyesters, uncommonized acrylamide and with polyesters, unemethylated acrylate and with Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers as well as optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.
  • Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Biogenic agents are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • biogenic active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudocleamides, extracts of essential oils, essential extracts such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (IH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoco ⁇ azol®, (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H -imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal , Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecy
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen, typical examples
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax), animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzyldiethyl ether, benzyl ethylatepylidyl ether, benzyl ethyl pentyl pentylate, benzyl ethyl pentyl pentylate, ethyl allyl pentyl pentate, eg the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, Vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, stemanis oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are Kochillerill A (Cl 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), Indigotin (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrene Blue RS ( Cl 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • composition of the wax dispersions - quantitative data based on active substance in% by weight
  • test is carried out on 20 test subjects with damaged hair with a single application of
  • Foaming power for pre-wash and main wash skin feel, combability, handle properties of wet hair, dry combability, handle properties of dry hair, shine, willingness to style
  • Foam capacity 50 1, 50 1, 35 1, 35 1, 50 1, 50 1, 75 1, 75 to pre-wash 0.61 0.61 0.49 0.49 0.61 0.61 0.44 0.44
  • Foam capacity 10 1, 10 1, 00 1, 00 1, 10 1, 10 1, 00 1, 00 against main wash 0.31 0.31 0.00 0.00 0.31 1.20 0.00 0.00

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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

Shampooings conditionneurs exempts de silicone, qui contiennent (a) 3 à 40 % en poids de tensioactifs anioniques et / ou non ioniques et / ou amphotères et / ou zwitterioniques, (b) 0,02 à 5 % en poids de polymère cationique de poids moléculaire moyen situé entre 5 000 et 1 000 000, (c) 0,5 à 10 % en poids d'une dispersion prédispersée à base de cire dont les particules possèdent des grandeurs moyennes de 0,1 à 4 mu m et une teneur en corps de cire de 10 à 40 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la dispersion prédispersée à base de cire, et (d) 20 à 90 % en poids d'eau, à condition que le total des quantités indiquées soit égal à 100 % en poids, compte tenu, éventuellement, de l'ajout de substances auxiliaires et d'additifs. Lesdites compositions rendent les cheveux doux au toucher, plus faciles à démêler et à coiffer et sont en outre faciles à produire lors d'un processus à froid.
PCT/EP2002/011117 2001-10-13 2002-10-04 Shampooing conditionneur WO2003032930A1 (fr)

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DE10150726A DE10150726A1 (de) 2001-10-13 2001-10-13 Konditionierendes Haarwaschmittel
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Cited By (4)

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WO2006018065A1 (fr) * 2004-08-17 2006-02-23 Unilever Plc Composition de soin capillaire
US9408785B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2016-08-09 L'oreal Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions
US10413496B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2019-09-17 L'oreal Aqueous wax dispersions
US10561596B2 (en) 2014-04-11 2020-02-18 L'oreal Compositions and dispersions containing particles comprising a polymer

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GB0315200D0 (en) * 2003-06-28 2003-08-06 Unilever Plc Hair cleansing compositions
JP5629427B2 (ja) * 2008-10-31 2014-11-19 コグニス・アイピー・マネージメント・ゲゼルシャフト・ミット・ベシュレンクテル・ハフツングＣｏｇｎｉｓ ＩＰ Ｍａｎａｇｅｍｅｎｔ ＧｍｂＨ 毛髪処理組成物
DE102010063059A1 (de) * 2010-12-14 2012-06-14 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarbehandlungsmittel enthaltend Dicocoyl Pentaerythrityl Distearyl Citrate
US10626294B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2020-04-21 L'oreal Aqueous wax dispersions containing volatile solvents
JP6377064B2 (ja) * 2012-10-15 2018-08-22 ロレアル 水性ワックス分散体およびそれらを含有するヘアスタイリング組成物

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EP0446094A1 (fr) * 1990-02-23 1991-09-11 L'oreal Compositions fluides contenant une microdispersion de cire et d'un tensio-actif cationique, leur preparation et leur utilisation
EP0639371A1 (fr) * 1993-08-20 1995-02-22 L'oreal Composition cosmétique à base de microdispersion de cire comprenant un composé organofluoré lipophile
US5476660A (en) * 1994-08-03 1995-12-19 Lever Brothers Company, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Deposition of materials to surfaces using zwitterionic carrier particles
US5496493A (en) * 1994-05-10 1996-03-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Ultra mild personal cleansing bar containing smaller-sized particulate wax
EP0908174A2 (fr) * 1997-09-18 1999-04-14 INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES INC. Compositions pour parfumer au moins un matériau parfumable et appareil pour évaluer la diffusion de parfum
JP2000086456A (ja) * 1998-09-09 2000-03-28 Shiseido Co Ltd 毛髪化粧料

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EP0446094A1 (fr) * 1990-02-23 1991-09-11 L'oreal Compositions fluides contenant une microdispersion de cire et d'un tensio-actif cationique, leur preparation et leur utilisation
EP0639371A1 (fr) * 1993-08-20 1995-02-22 L'oreal Composition cosmétique à base de microdispersion de cire comprenant un composé organofluoré lipophile
US5496493A (en) * 1994-05-10 1996-03-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Ultra mild personal cleansing bar containing smaller-sized particulate wax
US5476660A (en) * 1994-08-03 1995-12-19 Lever Brothers Company, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Deposition of materials to surfaces using zwitterionic carrier particles
EP0908174A2 (fr) * 1997-09-18 1999-04-14 INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES INC. Compositions pour parfumer au moins un matériau parfumable et appareil pour évaluer la diffusion de parfum
JP2000086456A (ja) * 1998-09-09 2000-03-28 Shiseido Co Ltd 毛髪化粧料

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006018065A1 (fr) * 2004-08-17 2006-02-23 Unilever Plc Composition de soin capillaire
US7871600B2 (en) 2004-08-17 2011-01-18 Conopco Inc. Hair care composition
US9408785B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2016-08-09 L'oreal Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions
US10413496B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2019-09-17 L'oreal Aqueous wax dispersions
US10888504B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2021-01-12 L'oreal Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions
US10561596B2 (en) 2014-04-11 2020-02-18 L'oreal Compositions and dispersions containing particles comprising a polymer

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