WO2003002085A1

WO2003002085A1 - Use of purified, water-soluble xylans extracted from palmaria

Info

Publication number: WO2003002085A1
Application number: PCT/FR2002/002048
Authority: WO
Inventors: Claude Dal Farra; Nouha Domloge; Dominique Peyronel
Original assignee: Societe D'extraction Des Principes Actifs (Vincience Sa)
Priority date: 2001-06-27
Filing date: 2002-06-14
Publication date: 2003-01-09
Also published as: FR2826575A1; FR2826575B1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of an effective quantity of purified, water-soluble xylans extracted from Palmaria in a composition or for the preparation of one such composition. Said xylans or said composition is designed to: increase hydration and regeneration of the skin and hair; treat the cutaneous signs of ageing (of physiological and solar origin) in a curative and/or preventive manner; and nourish the skin and hair. The invention also relates to cosmetic methods used to treat signs of ageing and to hydrate and regenerate the skin and hair.

Description

USE OF PURIFIED WATER-SOLUBLE XYLANES, EXTRALTS OF

PALMARIA

The present invention relates to the use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended for:

- increase hydration and regeneration of the skin and hair,

- treat curatively and / or preventively the skin manifestations of aging (of physiological and solar origin),

- nourish the skin and hair.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic methods for treating the manifestations of aging, hydrating and regenerating the skin and the hair.

Since the mad cow crisis, a decade ago, the cosmetic industry has turned away from bovine active ingredients, but also more and more from all animal active ingredients. However, not long ago, they were the main source of cosmetic active ingredients due to the obvious similarity between many skin molecules and animal cells. Plant extracts, already widely used in the past, remain an important avenue of research, but new studies have emerged over the past ten years. Also, products from biotechnology and marine products have been extensively studied. Among the latter, a distinction can be made between fish extracts such as, for example, marine elastins and collagens, and extracts from marine algae such as, for example, alginates, carrageenans, mucopolysaccharides and trace elements. In general, these marine extracts are little purified.

One of the trends in modern cosmetics is to develop purified extracts, that is to say for which almost all of the active ingredients are defined. Few active ingredients extracted from macroalgae fall into this category.

We therefore see that there remains a need for a new, purified product, extracted from seaweed. However, the Applicant has found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from the alga Palmaria, has an action on the skin.

To the knowledge of the applicant, the use of purified water-soluble xylans, extracts of Palmaria, has never been described in the prior art in cosmetics.

Thus, the primary object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to increase hydration and regeneration of the skin and hair.

Thereafter, the term “purified water-soluble xylans, extracts of Palmaria,” must be understood by water-soluble xylans, extracts of the alga Palmaria palmata also called Dulce or Dulse. These xylans are presented in purified form, which means a purity greater than 90%.

Another subject of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to treat curatively and / or preventively the cutaneous manifestations of aging (of physiological and solar origin).

Subsequently, the term cutaneous manifestation of aging must be understood by a modification of the skin due to chronobiological or photo-induced aging such as, for example, fine lines and wrinkles, thin skin, slowing down of cell regeneration.

Another subject of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to nourish the skin and the hair. Also, the invention is characterized in that the purified water-soluble xylans, extracts of Palmaria are used in the form of powder or in solution in a solvent suitable for cosmetics.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the purified water-soluble xylans extracted from Palmaria are used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.002% to 1% of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a galleic form suitable for administration by the topical skin route, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, hair or hair. These compositions may in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair. .

These compositions can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam. They can also be in solid form, such as a stick or be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin.

These compositions comprise, in a known manner, the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, filters, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers. In all cases, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the properties sought in the invention. These adjuvants can, for example, correspond to 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the fatty phase may represent from 5 to 80% by weight and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition will be chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. For example, they can be used in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantities, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition considered.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment of the manifestations of aging, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition as defined above.

The invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for hydration and cell regeneration, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition as defined above.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and without limitation.

Example 1 Preparation of Purified Water Soluble Xylans Extracted from Palmaria

100 grams of Palmaria palmata (Dulce or Dulse) are crushed and then hydrolyzed in 1 liter of demineralized water with an enzymatic cocktail, at a temperature varying from 30 to

60 ° C during the 6 hours of the reaction, and at a pH initially acid then neutral.

The released xylans are then separated from proteins and other Palmaria compounds.

Then the product is deodorized and discolored with a mixture of active carbon before being sterilized by heating. The solution thus obtained contains approximately 20 grams per liter of water-soluble xylans and a purity of xylans greater than 90%. Example 2 Effects of the Xylans of Example 1 on the Synthesis of Fibronectin

Fibroblasts were cultured and then cultured in the 8-well labteks. At 50% confluence, concentrations of 0.5% to 3% of the xylan extract of Example 1 were applied to the cells for 24 hours. Then the cells were fixed with methanol. Immunolabelling was then carried out with a revelation of peroxidase (DAB), to demonstrate the synthesis of fibronectin.

An image analysis allowing quantification was finally carried out using Samba Technology software. From a concentration of 0.5% of the extract of Example 1, a clear and statistically very significant increase (Student's method) was observed. Therefore, Palmaria xylans stimulate the synthesis of fibronectin.

Example 3 - Effects of the xylans of Example 1 on cell regeneration

Fibroblasts were cultured and then cultured in the 8-well labteks. At 50% confluence, concentrations of 0.5% to 3% of the xylan extract of Example 1 were applied to the cells for 24 hours. Then the cells were fixed with methanol. Immunolabelling with the antibody Ki67 was then carried out with revelation with peroxidase (DAB), in order to demonstrate cell regeneration.

An image analysis allowing quantification was finally carried out using Samba Technology software.

From a concentration of 0.5% of the extract of Example 1, a clear and statistically very significant increase (Student's method) was observed.

Therefore, Palmaria xylans stimulate cell regeneration.

EXAMPLE 4 Effects of the Xylans of Example 1 on Skin Hydration

Skin samples of approximately 1 cm ² obtained after surgery are cultured in the 6-well dishes. The active ingredient is applied at concentrations of 1 to 3% delicately using a brush on the epidermis. After 24 hours, the skin samples are fixed in 9% salt formalin for 10 hours and then included in the paraffin in an automated manner. Sections of 2 to 3 μm are then made and then stained with hematoxylin-eosin-saffron. Observation of the sections under the microscope reveals that in the presence of the xylans extracted from Palmaria of Example 1, the stratum corneum is clearly better hydrated. So Palmaria xylans hydrate the skin.

Example 5 Preparation of Compositions

These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage by weight.

1-Oil in water emulsion

Oily phase: a Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00% Jojoba Oil 5.00% Vaseline Oil 5.00% Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%

Aqueous phase: a Glycerin 5.00% a Allantoin 0.10% a Xylans from Example 1 5.00% a Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and Cl 3-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7) 0.30% a Preservative 0.50% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100 %

2- Gel

a Carbopol Ultrez l0 (2% sol.) 25.00% a Triethanolamine 0.50% a Xylans of example 1 1.0% a Preservative 0.20% a EDTA (sequestering) 0.10% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100%

3- Lotion

a Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00% a Allantoin 0.30% a Glycerin 1.00% a Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00% a Xylans from Example 1 0.1% a Preservative 0.20% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100%

Claims

1. Use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to increase the hydration and the regeneration of the skin and the hair.

2. Use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracted from Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to treat curatively and / or preventively the cutaneous manifestations of aging (of physiological and solar origin).

3. Use in a composition or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of purified water-soluble xylans, extracts of Palmaria; the xylans or the composition being intended to nourish the skin and the hair.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purified water-soluble xylans extracted from Palmaria are used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.002% to 1% of the total weight of the composition.

5. Xylanes, as defined in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are used in the form of powder or in solution in a solvent suitable for cosmetics.

6. Cosmetic method for treating the manifestations of aging, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Cosmetic process for hydration and cell regeneration, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.