WO2002094212A1

WO2002094212A1 - Cosmetic uses of 3-beta-acetoxy-7-oxo dhea

Info

Publication number: WO2002094212A1
Application number: PCT/FR2002/001498
Authority: WO
Inventors: Elisabeth Picard-Lesboueyries; Béatrice Renault; Véronique Burnier; Roland Roguet; Guy Courchay
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2001-05-18
Filing date: 2002-04-30
Publication date: 2002-11-28
Also published as: FR2824737A1

Abstract

The invention concerns the cosmetic use of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA for improving the aspect of keratinous materials, except for treatment of wrinkles and fine lines, dry skin and dermatitis. Said use is, in particular, designed to prevent or treat loss of skin firmness and/or dull complexion and/or pore dilation and/or disorders of skin or hair pigmentation and/or hyperseborrhea and/or defects related to hyperseborrhea and/or sensitive skin and/or baldness. The invention also concerns a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA associated with at least another compound.

Description

Cosmetic uses of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA to improve the appearance of keratin materials, with the exception of the treatment of wrinkles and fine lines, dry skin and dermatitis. This use is intended in particular to prevent or treat the loss of firmness of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of the pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or the hair and / or hyperseborrhea and / or imperfections linked to hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or hair loss and / or canities. It also relates to a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA in combination with at least one other compound.

DHEA, or dehydroepiandrosterone, is a natural steroid produced primarily by the adrenal cortex. Exogenous DHEA, administered topically or orally, is known for its ability to promote keratinization of the epidermis (JP-07 196 467) and to treat dry skin by increasing endogenous production and sebum secretion and by strengthening thus the barrier effect of the skin (US Pat. No. 4,496,556). The use of DHEA to remedy atrophy of the dermis by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue has also been described in patent US Pat. No. 5,843,932. Finally, the Applicant has demonstrated the ability of DHEA to fight against the papery appearance of the skin (FR 00/00349), to modulate the pigmentation of the skin and hair (FR 99/12773) and to fight against atrophy of the epidermis (FR 00/06154). These properties of DHEA make it a candidate of choice as an anti-aging active.

However, for regulatory reasons, the hormonal nature of DHEA currently prohibits its use for the manufacture of cosmetic products in certain countries, and there therefore remains the need to have DHEA analogs having properties as interesting as DHEA itself. -same, but having no hormonal effects.

However, it appeared to the Applicant that 3-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA or Δ5-androstene-3β-acetoxy-7,17-dione could meet this need. This compound has already been described as being effective in modulating the immune system (US-5,292,730; US-5,585,371; US-5,641,766), the treatment of Alzheimer's disease (US-5,707,983) and the treatment of HIV syndrome (US -5,885,977) and to promote weight loss (US-5,296,481; US-5,807,848).

Document WO 99/25333 also mentions the use, in particular topical use, of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA in the prophylactic and curative treatment of lupus erythematosus, which is a disorder of the immune system capable of affecting several organs and manifested, in the skin, by a transverse redness of the face and / or by scaly erythema plaques disseminated on the body.

However, to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been proposed to use 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA for cosmetic purposes.

The present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA to improve the appearance of keratin materials, with the exception of the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, dry skin and dermatitis, in particular for prevent or treat loss of firmness of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or hyperseborrhea and / or blemishes related to hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or hair loss and / or canities.

3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA can for example be prepared according to the process described in patents US-5,869,709 and US-6, 111,118.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA and at least one compound chosen from: a desquamating agent, a hydrating agent, a depigmenting or pro -pigmenting agent, an anti-glycation agent, a NO-synthase inhibitor, a 5α-reductase inhibitor, a lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitor, an agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, an agent stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, a muscle relaxant, an antimicrobial agent, a tensor agent and an anti-pollution or anti-radical agent.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA and at least one given UV filter, chosen from certain UVA and / or UVB filters and / or at least one pigment inorganic possibly coated.

Although it can be administered orally, the composition according to the invention is preferably suitable for topical application to keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibers (hair and eyelashes) and nails.

In all cases, the composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of DHEA derivative, sufficient to obtain the desired effect, and a physiologically acceptable medium.

To give an order of magnitude, the composition according to the invention may contain from 0.00001% to 10% by weight of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, however, this composition will contain from 0.001% to 5% by weight of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The above composition can be used for cosmetic purposes, to improve the appearance of keratin materials.

This composition can thus be used to prevent or treat fine lines and / or wrinkles and / or loss of firmness, tone and / or elasticity of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or drying of the skin and / or hyperseborrhea and / or the imperfections linked to hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or the fall of hair and / or canities.

We will now detail the various compounds which may be introduced into the composition according to the invention. 1- desquamating and moisturizing agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

- Either directly on flaking by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol;

- or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of the corneodesmosomes, the glycosidases, the stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of agents chelating mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2 hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

By "hydrating agent" is meant

- either a compound acting on the barrier function, in order to maintain the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. Mention may be made of ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, giycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum and lanolin;

- or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as threalose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, lactate of sodium, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and N-α-benzoyl-L-arginine;

- or a compound activating the sebaceous glands such as steroid derivatives (including DHEA) and vitamin D and its derivatives.

These compounds can represent from 0.001% to 30%, and preferably from 0.01 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention comprising the scaling and moisturizing agents mentioned above is advantageously intended for the prevention or treatment of drying of the skin and in particular of xerosis.

2- depigmenting or pro-pigmenting agent

Depigmenting agents capable of being incorporated into the composition according to the present invention include, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in applications EP-895,779 and EP-524,109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, as well as its salts and esters; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; and plant extracts, in particular licorice, mulberry and skullcap, without this list being exhaustive.

As a pro-pigmenting agent, mention may be made of the extract of pimprenelle (Sanguisorba officinalis) sold by the company Maruzen and the extracts of chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium).

The composition according to the present invention comprising the depigmenting agents mentioned above is advantageously intended for the prevention or treatment of hyperpigmentations, in particular pigment spots associated with aging of the skin. For its part, the composition containing the pro-pigmenting agents mentioned above is preferably intended for the treatment of canities.

3- Anti-glvcation agent

By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound preventing and / or reducing the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermis proteins such as collagen.

Examples of anti-glycation agents are plant extracts from the Ericaceae family, such as a bilberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium); ergothionein and its derivatives; and hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene. These anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 99/16166, FR 00/08158, FR 99/09267 and FR 99/16168, respectively. Resveratrol is particularly preferred for use in this invention.

The composition according to the invention comprising an anti-glycation agent as defined above can advantageously be used to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular to prevent or treat the loss of tone and / or elasticity of the skin. skin.

4- NO-synthase inhibitor

Examples of NO synthase inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include in particular a plant extract of the species Vitis vinifera which is in particular marketed by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidins from extra grapes, or also by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect ^® , or finally by the company Hansen under the name Grape extract; a plant extract of the species Olea europaea which is preferably obtained from olive leaves and is in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT ; and an extract of a plant of the Gingko biloba species which is preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract. The composition according to the invention comprising an NO-synthase inhibitor as defined above can advantageously be used to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging and / or sensitive skin.

5. 5α-reductase inhibitor

When the composition according to the invention comprises a 5α-reductase inhibitor, this can in particular be chosen from:

- retinoids, and in particular retinol;

- sulfur and sulfur derivatives;

- zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate;

- selenium chloride; - vitamin B6 or pyridoxine;

- the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 ^® ;

- an extract of Laminaria saccharina sold in particular by the company SECMA under the trade name Phlorogine ^® ;

- an extract of Spiraea ulmaria sold in particular by the company SILAB under the trade name Sebonormine ^® ;

- plant extracts of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by the company MARUZEN;

- an extract from Serenoa repens marketed in particular by the company EUROMED;

- extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; - plant extracts containing sapogenins and in particular Dioscorea extracts rich in diosgenin or hecogenin; and

- extracts of Eugenia caryophyllata containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside.

The 5α-reductase inhibitor represents, for example, from 0.001% to 10%, and preferably from 0.01 to 5%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention. When it contains such a compound, it is particularly well suited for preventing or treating seborrhea and / or hirsutism and / or androgen-dependent alopecia.

6. Ivsyl inhibitor and or prolyl hydroxylase

Preferred examples of lysyl and / or propyl hydroxylase inhibitors which can be used in the composition according to the present invention are 2,4-diamino-pyrimidine 3-oxide or 2,4-DPO described in patent application WO 96/09048 and 2,4-diamino-6-piperidino pyrimidine 3-oxide or "Minoxidil" described in patents US-4, 139,619 and US-4,596,812.

These compounds are for example present in the composition according to the invention up to 0.001 to 5% by weight and, better still, up to 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition containing the lysyl inhibitor and / or prolyl hydroxylase and the DHEA derivative according to the invention is advantageously used for the prevention or treatment of alopecia.

7. Agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation

Among the active ingredients stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis, there may be mentioned those which act:

- either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica; asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide sold by the company SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Phytokine®; and plant hormones such as auxins.

- or on the synthesis of elastin, such as the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the extract of alga Macrocystis pyrifera sold by the company SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®;

- Either on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk by lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by the company BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica sold by the company ALBAN MULLER under the trade name HSP3®; and the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®;

- either on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the zooplankton extract Salina sold by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G®; the yeast extract available in particular from the company ALBAN MULLER under the trade name Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide sold by the company SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil®;

- or on inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly MMP 1, 2, 3, 9. Mention may be made of: retinoids and derivatives, isoflavonoids, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, malt extract sold by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift®; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (marketed for example by the company ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon or sage;

- Either on the inhibition of serine proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G. Mention may be made of: the peptide extract of legume seeds (Pisum sativum) sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and pseudodipeptides.

Among the active ingredients stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrine and keratins, there may be mentioned in particular the lupine extract marketed by the company SILAB under the trade name Structurine®; the beech bud extract Fagus sylvatica sold by the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name Gatuline®; and the zooplankton extract Salina sold by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G®. The composition according to the invention containing one or more of the above compounds is particularly suitable for use in the prevention or treatment of the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

8. Agent stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes

The agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts which can be used in the composition according to the invention can for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted in particular from soya (for example a soya extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or marketed by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate; walnut cake extracts sold by the company GATTEFOSSE; and extracts of Solanum tuberosum sold by the company SEDERMA.

Agents which stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; the lupine extract sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Photopréventine®; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfate marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name Phytocohesine®; and the corn extract sold by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®.

The composition according to the invention comprising these compounds is preferably intended to be used to prevent or treat the skin signs of aging. 9. Muscle relaxant

The muscle relaxants usable in the composition according to the invention include calcium channel blockers such as alverine and its salts, chlorine channel openers such as Diazepam, and catecholamine and acetylcholine inhibitors such as hexapeptide argireline R marketed by the company ILIPOTEC.

The composition according to the invention comprising these compounds is preferably intended to be used to prevent or treat the cutaneous signs of aging and in particular wrinkles.

10. Anti-microbial agent

The antimicrobial agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide , phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid , phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4'- trichloro-2 ' -hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglyci ne, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent WO9318743, farnesol, phytosphingosines and their mixtures.

Preferred antimicrobial agents are triclosan, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, caprylyl glycol, farnesol and azelaic acid.

By way of example, the antimicrobial agent can be used in the composition according to the invention in an amount representing from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, of the total weight of the composition. The composition containing 3-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA and the antimicrobial agent is particularly suitable for use in the treatment of oily skin prone to acne, acne, or dandruff of the scalp.

11. Tensing agent

By "tightening agent" is meant a compound capable of exerting traction on the skin, which has the effect of temporarily blurring irregularities in the surface of the skin, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Among the tensing agents which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular:

(1) polyurethane latexes or acrylic-silicone latexes, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a grafted polydimethyl siloxane propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio ( methacrylic polyacid), or alternatively a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic polyacid). Such grafted silicone polymers are in particular sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO21,

(2) vegetable soy or wheat proteins, and / or

(3) sodium and magnesium silicates. (Laponites).

The compositions according to the invention comprising the above tensing agents are advantageously intended for the treatment of skin signs of aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines.

12. Anti-pollution or anti-radical agent

The expression "anti-pollution agent" means any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel. By "anti-radical agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping free radicals. As ozone trapping agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, in particular green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenol acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; derivatives of sulfur amino acids, in particular S-carboxymethylcysteine; ergothioneine; N-acetylcysteine; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or one of its salts, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosinetriphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and RNA hydrolysis marketed by Serobiological Laboratories under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F®, the water-soluble fraction of corn sold by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®, the mixture of fumitory extract and lemon extract marketed under the name Unicotrozon C-49® by the company Induchem, and the mixture of ginseng and apple extracts , peach, wheat and barley sold by PROVITAL under the trade name Pronalen Bioprotect®.

As trapping agents for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; extracts of tea, in particular green tea, extracts of water hyacinth or eichomia crassipes; and the water-soluble fraction of corn sold by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®.

Finally, as heavy metal trapping agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic, and N, N'-bis- ( 3,4,5- trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or one of its salts, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, in particular green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid; sulfur amino acids such as cysteine; extracts of water hyacinth (Eichomia crassipes); and the fraction water-soluble corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®.

The anti-free radical agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention include, in addition to certain anti-pollution agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; co-enzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; lignans; and melatonin.

The compositions according to the invention comprising the above anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents are advantageously intended for the prevention or treatment of the skin signs of aging, in particular wrinkles and the loss of firmness and elasticity skin. They are alternatively intended for the prevention or treatment of dull complexion.

13. UVA and or UVB filter and inorganic pigments possibly coated

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more UV filters capable of filtering UVA and / or UVB radiation.

As compounds capable of filtering UVA radiation, there may be mentioned in particular: (1) benzophenone derivatives, for example:

- 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1);

- 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetra-hydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2);

- 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3), available from the company BASF under the trade name UVINUL M40; - 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid (benzophenone-4) and its sulfonate form (benzophenone-5), available from the company BASF under the trade name UVINUL MS40;

- 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-6);

- 5-chloro-2-hydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-7); - 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-8);

- the disodium salt of the 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-benzophenone-5,5'-disulfonic acid (benzophenone-9);

- 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl-benzophenone (benzophenone-10); - benzophenone-11;

- 2-hydroxy-4- (octyloxy) benzophenone (benzophenone-12), benzophenones 3 and 5 being preferred;

(2) triazine derivatives, and in particular 2,4-bis {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxy-phenyl) -1,3 , 5-triazine available from the company CIBA GEIGY under the trade name TINOSORB S and 2,2'-methylenebis- [6- (2H benzotriazol-2-yl) 4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol] available from the company CIBA GEIGY under the trade name TINOSORB M;

(3) 1,4-benzene acid [di (3-methylidenecampho-10-sulfonic acid)], optionally in partially or completely neutralized form, and (4) mixtures thereof.

As compound capable of filtering UVB radiation, there may be mentioned in particular: (1) derivatives of salicylic acid, in particular homomenthyl salicylate and octyl salicylate; (2) cinnamic acid derivatives, in particular 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available from the company GIVAUDAN under the trade name Parsol MCX;

(3) derivatives of liquid β, β'-diphenylacrylate, in particular 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-α, β 'diphenylacrylate, or octocrylene, available from the company BASF under the trade name UVINUL N539;

(4) p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives;

(5) 4-methyl benzylidene camphor available from the company MERCK, under the trade name EUSOLEX 6300;

(6) 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid sold under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232" by the company MERCK

(7) derivatives of 1, 3,5-triazine, in particular:

- 2,4,6-tris [p- (2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3,5-triazine, available from the company BASF under the trade name UVINUL T150, and - compound corresponding to the following formula (II): O

II

in which R 'denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R denotes a tert-butyl radical, available from the company SIGMA 3V under the trade name UVASORB HEB; (8) their mixtures.

As a compound capable of filtering UVA and UVB radiation, mention may in particular be made of the benzotriazole silicone corresponding to the following general formula (III):

This benzotriazole silicone, as well as its method of preparation, are described in particular in application FR-A-2 642 968. As inorganic pigments optionally coated, there may be mentioned nanopigments of titanium oxide, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium optionally coated with alumina and / or aluminum stearate.

In addition to the compound or compounds described above, the composition according to the invention generally contains an effective amount of 3-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA, sufficient to obtain the desired effect. It thus contains, for example, from 0.00001% to 10% by weight of said 3-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition, and, better still, from 0.001% to 5% by weight of said 3 -acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It can be used for cosmetic purposes, to improve the appearance of keratin materials, in particular to prevent or treat fine lines and / or wrinkles and / or loss of firmness, tone and / or elasticity of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or drying of the skin and / or hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or hair loss and / or canities.

The composition according to the invention is preferably suitable for topical application to keratin materials such as the skin, the hair or the nails. It can be in all dosage forms normally used for this type of application, in particular in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a silicone emulsion , a microemulsion or nanoemulsion, an aqueous or oily gel or a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product.

This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. or a gel. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol, patch or powder. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a skin makeup product. It can alternatively be in the form of a shampoo or conditioner. In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, pigments, absorbents of odor and coloring matter. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase. These adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be such that they do not harm the advantageous properties of the DHEA derivative according to the invention.

When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The fats, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are preferably present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As fats which can be used in the invention, oils and in particular mineral oils (petroleum jelly oil), oils of vegetable origin (avocado oil, soybean oil), oils of animal origin (lanolin) can be used. ), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, waxes and gums and in particular silicone gums can also be used as fats.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60, for example; and their mixtures. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids and hydrophobic silica.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be adapted for oral administration. In this case, it can be in the form of syrups, suspensions, solutions, emulsions, granules, capsules, soft capsules or tablets, for example.

The daily doses of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA administered orally can for example go up to 200 mg / day. They can be administered in a single dose or in several doses, the dose per dose can be for example between 25 and 50 mg.

The present invention finally relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, with the exception of the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, dry skin and dermatitis, comprising oral administration or topical application to the skin, hair, eyelashes or nails of a composition containing 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA in a physiologically acceptable medium.

It relates more particularly to a cosmetic treatment process for the loss of firmness of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of the pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or hyperseborrhea and / or imperfections related to hyyerpersborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or hair loss and / or canities, including oral administration or application topically on the skin or hair of a composition containing 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA in a physiologically acceptable medium.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the quantities are indicated in percentage by weight. EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Moisturizing Cream

Phase A

Acrylate / C ₁₀ - ₃₀ acrylate copolymer 0.5%

Water 12%

Phase B Polyisobutene hydrogenated 5% 3β-acetoxy -7-oxo DHEA 0.5% Cyclohexasiloxane 6%

Phase C Triethanolamine 1%

Glycerin 6%

EDTA 0.2%

Preservatives 0.5%

Glycine 2% Polyacrylamide and C ₁₃ - ₁₄ isoparaffin and laureth-7 1%

Water qs 00%

This composition can be prepared in the following manner. The polymer of phase A is dispersed in water at 40 ° C. The constituents of phase B are heated to 70 ° C until complete dissolution, then the temperature is reduced to 40 ° C. The constituents of phase C are mixed at 50 ° C. Phase B is then introduced into phase A at 40 ° C with stirring, then phase C is added to them.

The above composition makes it possible to rehydrate and smooth dry skin.

EXAMPLE 2 Moisturizing Cream

The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art. Phase A

100% QSP demineralized water

Preservatives 0.5%

Carbomer 0.4% Glycerin 7%

Phase B1

Oxyethylenated sorbitan stearate (200 EO) 0.9%

Phase B2 PEG-100 stearate and 2.1% glyceryl stearate

Isononyl isononanoate 10%

Vaseline 2%

Octyldodecanol 10%

3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 0.2% Butylhydroxytoluene 0.1%

1% UV filter

Ceramides 0.5%

Phase C Water 2%

Triethanolamine 0.5% Urea 1%

This cream can be used in the care of dry skin.

EXAMPLE 3 Anti-Aging Cream

Phase A Copolymer acrylate / C ₁₀ - ₃ o acrylate 0.5%

Water 12%

Phase B

5% hydrogenated polyisobutene 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 0.5%

Cyclohexasiloxane 5%

Octyl methoxycinnamate 1%

Phase C

Triethanolamine 1%

Glycerin 6%

Preservatives 0.5%

Polyacrylamide and C ₁₃ - ₁₄ isoparaffin and laureth-7 1%

Water qs p 100%

This cream can be used in mono- or bi-daily applications to treat the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.

EXAMPLE 4 Anti-Aging Cream

The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art.

Phase A

100% QSP demineralized water

Preservatives 0.5%

Carbomer 0.4% Glycerin 7%

Phase B1

Oxyethylenated sorbitan stearate (200 EO) 0.9% Step 82

PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate 2.1% Isononyl isononanoate 10% Octyldodecanol 10% 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 0.2% Butylhydroxytoluene 0.1% UV filter 1%

Phase C Water 2%

0.5% triethanolamine

Centella Asiatica extract 1%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide (Matrixyl® from SEDERMA) 0.1%

This cream is useful as a firming day cream.

Example 5: Cleansing gel for oily skin

The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for the skilled person

Lauryl phosphate 6.5%

Decyl glucoside 16.25%

Polyquaternium-7 5.7%

Oxyethylenated pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (150 EO) 0.5%

Glycerin 3.5%

Sorbitol 3.5%

Potassium hydroxide 1.7%

0.2% Hydroxypropylcellulose

0.05% disodium EDTA

0.1% sodium chloride

3β-acetoxy -7-oxo DHEA 0.1%

Preservatives 0.3%

100% QSP water This gel helps regulate sebum secretions and reduce skin imperfections.

Example 6: Anti-stain patch

A patch is prepared comprising the following composition:

Water 40% Alcohol QSP

Glycerin 7%

3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 0.5%

Polyvinyl alcohol 5%

Kojic acid 0.5%

This patch can be applied to the hands and décolleté to blur pigment spots, especially age spots.

EXAMPLE 7 Anti-Hair Loss Lotion

The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

Water 25% Glycerin 7%

3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 0.5%

100% QSP alcohol

This lotion is effective in preventing hair loss. EXAMPLE 8 Anti-Aging Food Supplement

Soft capsules having the following composition are prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art:

Hydrogenated soybean oil 40 mg

Wheat oil 95 mg

Soy lecithin 20 mg

Natural tocopherols 5 mg Ascorbic acid 30 mg

Soy extract available under the name Novasoy® from the company AMD (corresponding to approximately 50 mg of isoflavones) 120 mg

3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA 50 mg

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA to improve the appearance of keratin materials, with the exception of the treatment of wrinkles and fine lines, dry skin and dermatitis.

2. Cosmetic use of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA to prevent or treat loss of skin firmness and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of pores and / or skin pigmentation disorders or hair and / or hyperseborrhea and / or imperfections related to hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or hair loss and / or canities.

3. Cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA and at least one compound chosen from: a desquamating agent, a moisturizing agent, a depigmenting or pro-pigmenting agent, an anti- glycation, an inhibitor of NO synthase, an inhibitor of 5α-reductase, an inhibitor of lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase, an agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, an agent stimulating proliferation and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, a muscle relaxant, an antimicrobial agent, a tightening agent, and an anti-pollution or anti-radical agent.

4. Cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA and at least one inorganic pigment optionally coated and / or at least one UV filter chosen from:

(a) a benzophenone derivative;

(b) a triazine derivative;

(c) benzene acid 1, 4 [di (3-methylidenecampho 10-sulfonic)], optionally in partially or completely neutralized form; (e) a salicylic acid derivative;

(f) a cinnamic acid derivative;

(g) a derivative of liquid β, β'-diphenylacrylate; (h) a derivative of p-aminobenzoic acid; (i) 4-methyl benzylidene camphor; 0) 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid; (k) a 1,3,5-triazine derivative;

(I) a benzotriazole silicone of formula

5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that it is suitable for topical application to keratin materials.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the keratin materials are chosen from: the skin, the hair, the eyelashes and the nails.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that it contains from 0.00001% to 10% by weight of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition .

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that it contains from 0.001% to 5% by weight of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it is suitable for oral administration.

10. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 3 to 9 for improving the appearance of keratin materials.

11. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 3 to 9 for preventing or treating wrinkles and fine lines and / or loss of firmness, tone and / or elasticity of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of the pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or drying of the skin and / or hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or loss hair and / or canities.

12. Cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, with the exception of the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, dry skin and dermatitis, comprising oral administration or topical application to the skin, hair, eyelashes or the nails of a composition containing 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA in a physiologically acceptable medium.

13. Cosmetic treatment method for loss of firmness of the skin and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of the pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair and / or hyperseborrhea and / or sensitive skin and / or dandruff and / or hair loss and / or canities, comprising oral administration or topical application to the skin or hair of a composition containing 3β- acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA in a physiologically acceptable medium.