WO2001058418A2 - Compositions antisolaires - Google Patents

Compositions antisolaires Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001058418A2
WO2001058418A2 PCT/EP2001/000987 EP0100987W WO0158418A2 WO 2001058418 A2 WO2001058418 A2 WO 2001058418A2 EP 0100987 W EP0100987 W EP 0100987W WO 0158418 A2 WO0158418 A2 WO 0158418A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
acids
derivatives
compounds
oil
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PCT/EP2001/000987
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2001058418A3 (fr
Inventor
Gilles Pauly
Hans-Udo KRÄCHTER
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Cognis France, S.A.
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Priority to AU2001237356A priority Critical patent/AU2001237356A1/en
Publication of WO2001058418A2 publication Critical patent/WO2001058418A2/fr
Publication of WO2001058418A3 publication Critical patent/WO2001058418A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics, especially sun cosmetics, and relates to new preparations containing nucleic compounds and special hydroxycarboxylic acids and their use for the production of sunscreens.
  • the pigmentation of normal skin leads to the formation of melanins under the influence of solar radiation. Irradiation with long-wave UV-A light causes the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis to darken without any damaging consequences, while the short-wave UV-B radiation causes the formation of new melanin. Before the protective pigment can be formed, however, the skin is exposed to the unfiltered radiation, which, depending on the duration of exposure, can lead to reddening of the skin (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) or even burns.
  • the stress on the organism associated with such skin lesions for example in connection with the release of histamines, can additionally lead to headache, weariness, fever, cardiovascular disorders and the like.
  • Preparations which allow the incorporation of large quantities of UV light protection filters without phase separation or sedimentation taking place during storage continue to be of particular interest.
  • a formulation produced by the phase inversion temperature method, as described, for example, in European patent application EP 0066144 A1 (L'Oreal) tends to be used when incorporating larger quantities of titanium dioxide very quickly to remove the dispersed solid.
  • Another problem is that many UV light protection filters can interact with the other components of the formulation, which leads to a chemical reaction and also to a decrease in shelf life.
  • the consumer desires transparent formulations which are highly compatible with skin cosmetics even with very sensitive skin.
  • the complex object of the invention was therefore to provide sunscreens which are distinguished by an improved sun protection effect and at the same time have particular phase stability, storage stability, transparency and compatibility with sensitive skin.
  • the invention relates to new sunscreens containing
  • the preparations according to the invention contain water-soluble vitamins and / or their derivatives as further component c).
  • water-soluble vitamins are understood to mean thiamine chloride HCI (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), pyridoxine HCI (vitamin B6), pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, folic acid, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide or pantothenic acid, preferably pyridoxine HCI (vitamin B6), pyridoxamine, pyridoxal and especially pyridoxine HCI (vitamin B6).
  • the nuclein compounds which can be considered as component (a) can be ribonuclein compounds and / or deoxyribonuclein compounds.
  • the substances are preferably selected from the group formed by nucleic acids, salts of the nucleic acids, nucleotides, salts of the nucleotides and nucleosides.
  • the nucleic acids and / or nucleotides are in the form of their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and / or glucammonium salts and especially in the form of their salts or complexes with basic proteids, peptides and / or contain amino acids.
  • the basic proteids that act as counterions are, for example, histones or microproteins with a molecular weight in the range from 11,000 to 24,000, which, due to their content of basic amino acids of the arginine and lysine type, make up up to 25% of the aminated residues of these molecules , react strongly basic.
  • Preferred histones are those of the types H1, H2a, H3 and H4, which are found in particular in the sperm of certain fish, in leucocytes, in the thymus and very generally in all cell nuclei. Also suitable are globins whose molecular weight is in the range from 15,000 to 70,000 and which are rich in basic amino acids of the histidine and lysine type.
  • the nucleic acids can also be in the form of their complex salts with basic amino acids, which are preferably L-histidine, L-arginine, L-lysine, L-hydroxylysine and / or L-ornithine and peptides of these amino acids.
  • the nucleic compounds are furthermore preferably in combination with amino acids; these amino acids are preferably L-phenylalanine and / or L-tyrosine.
  • the nuclein compounds are present as mononucleotides, i.e. as fragments of the corresponding nucleic acids, which show a strong UV absorption capacity at wavelengths of 250 to 280 nm.
  • Preferred nucleotides are the following:
  • nucleic compounds are preferably present in the form of their salts with bases, which makes it possible to set optimum pH values in the order of 5.8 to 8 in the final formulations.
  • the nuclein compounds are in the form of nucleosides, adenosine, cytidine, guanosine, inosine, uridine and xanthosine being of particular importance.
  • the advantage of these substances is, for example, that most of the time they provide pH values that are directly compatible with the physiology of the skin cells, i.e. they do not require the formation of salts, complexes or biochemical combinations with proteids, basic amino acids, peptides and the like.
  • ⁇ -Hydroxycarboxylic acids are well-known cosmetic ingredients, which preferably have 3 to 6 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and especially citric acid.
  • the acids can be used as such or in the form of their derivatives, for example as salts, especially alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and / or glucammononium salts, as esters, especially with carboxylic acids with 1 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and as amides, preferably the nucleic compounds and the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives in the final preparations in a total amount of 0.05 to 10, preferably 0 , 05 to 1 and in particular 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-% - based on the final preparations - present.
  • the sunscreens contain, as optional component (d), UV or IR light protection factors and / or antioxidants.
  • UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, as organic or liquid substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet or infrared rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; > Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-n ⁇ ethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);
  • Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as DL-camosin, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids , Carotenes (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low v tolerable dosages (e.g.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g.
  • Another object of the invention relates to the use of mixtures consisting of
  • Binary mixtures can contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 90:10 to 10:90, preferably 75:25 to 25:75 and in particular 60:40 to 40:60. If ternary mixtures of components a), b) and d) are used, the components are preferably present in the following weight ratios:
  • the proportion of the mixtures in the agents mentioned is generally in the range from 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 and in particular 1 to 3% by weight, the amount of water and 100% remaining usual auxiliaries and additives is formed.
  • the sunscreens according to the invention can be present, for example, as creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers Contain swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • surfactants mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight, typical examples of Anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerin ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerin ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymischulfate sulfate, ether ether sulfate sulfates, hydroxymisch sulfate ether sulfate and dialkyl
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or alkyl, fatty acid amide, glucoramic acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid derivatives, glucoric acid acid derivatives, glucoronic acid derivatives, glucoric acid acid derivatives, glucoramic acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid derivatives, in particular, glucoric acid silicate (glucoric acid-derived), glucoric acid-
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ - olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, ammonium phoacetale and / or protein fatty acid condensates , the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • oil body fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ - olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglu
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of C18-C38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols cf.
  • dioctyl malates esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-C ⁇ o fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Cis fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ⁇ -C ⁇ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of Be nzo acid
  • Finsoiv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicontypes etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, e.g. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicon methicontypes etc.
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons e.g. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside residue it applies that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bound to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isosteannklarediglycerid, Olchuremonoglycerid, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklaremonoglycerid, linoleic acid diglyceride, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, erucic acid diglyceride, rid Weinchuremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglyce-, Malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Gera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Is
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or ⁇ Acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium gly
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / i ⁇ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (woliwax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g.
  • natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, bee
  • Montanester waxes Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithin those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
  • Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially steak rinklamonoglycerid; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (eg Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucoside
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used as stabilizers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®IJGrünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isoboronyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their crosslinked polyesters and their esters, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate-copolymers lat, Octylacryiamid / methyl methacrylate / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2 Hydroxyproyl- methacrylate copolymers, poly viny on Ipyrroli, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolact
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • Biogenic agents are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and
  • Biogenic active substances are to be understood as meaning, for example, tocopherol, tocopheroiacetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed.
  • deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as. B.
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. For example, they contain a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless as the main ingredient Fragrances known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • non-aqueous solvents such as ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with amino acids such as glycine.
  • conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Examples of such oil-soluble auxiliaries are:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (IH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4- dichlorophenyl) r-2 - '(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethyleneglycolsorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate , Sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethyiolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepyl propionate, allyl cyclohexyl propylateionate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavender oil , Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, Allylamylglycolat, Cyclovertal, Lavandinöl, Muscatel Sage Oil, ß-
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • Photonyl®LS is a product of Laboratoires Serobi unanimous and is a composition consisting of the following components: arginine, disodium adenosine triphosphate, mannitol, pyridoxine HCI, RNA, histidine HCI, L-phenylalanine and L-tyrosine.

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Abstract

Nouvelles compositions antisolaires qui contiennent (a) des liaisons nucléiques et (b) des acides α-hydroxycarboxyliques et/ou leurs dérivés.
PCT/EP2001/000987 2000-02-09 2001-01-31 Compositions antisolaires WO2001058418A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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AU2001237356A AU2001237356A1 (en) 2000-02-09 2001-01-31 Sunscreening agent

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FR0001603 2000-02-09
FR0001603A FR2804602B1 (fr) 2000-02-09 2000-02-09 Preparations cosmetiques

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WO2001058418A2 true WO2001058418A2 (fr) 2001-08-16
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002007681A2 (fr) * 2000-07-21 2002-01-31 Lyles Mark B Formulations d'ecrans solaires contenant des acides nucleiques

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FR2324293A1 (fr) * 1975-04-29 1977-04-15 Orlane Produit cosmetique stimulant le metabolisme de la peau et procede de preparation dudit produit cosmetique
WO1996001617A1 (fr) * 1994-07-08 1996-01-25 Apogen Filtres d'acides nucleiques
WO1998005910A1 (fr) * 1996-08-02 1998-02-12 Bosch-Siemens Hausgeräte Gmbh Dispositif de stockage
FR2770777A1 (fr) * 1997-11-10 1999-05-14 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Composition synergique associant de l'acs et/ou de l'adn a de l'hydroxyproline ainsi que leurs applications en nutritherapie et en cosmetologie

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JPS59134706A (ja) * 1983-01-19 1984-08-02 Kobayashi Kooc:Kk 化粧料
JPS6064907A (ja) * 1983-09-17 1985-04-13 Risuburan Prod:Kk 水性ゲル状化粧料
JPS60252405A (ja) * 1984-05-02 1985-12-13 Kobayashi Kooc:Kk 化粧料
JP3434333B2 (ja) * 1993-11-08 2003-08-04 株式会社ノエビア 皮膚外用剤
JPH10279485A (ja) * 1997-04-01 1998-10-20 Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd:The 組成物

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FR2324293A1 (fr) * 1975-04-29 1977-04-15 Orlane Produit cosmetique stimulant le metabolisme de la peau et procede de preparation dudit produit cosmetique
WO1996001617A1 (fr) * 1994-07-08 1996-01-25 Apogen Filtres d'acides nucleiques
WO1998005910A1 (fr) * 1996-08-02 1998-02-12 Bosch-Siemens Hausgeräte Gmbh Dispositif de stockage
FR2770777A1 (fr) * 1997-11-10 1999-05-14 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Composition synergique associant de l'acs et/ou de l'adn a de l'hydroxyproline ainsi que leurs applications en nutritherapie et en cosmetologie

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DATABASE CHEMABS [Online] CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS SERVICE, COLUMBUS, OHIO, US; retrieved from STN Database accession no. 1985:476081 XP002151332 & JP 60 064907 A (LISBURN PRODUCTS) 13. April 1985 (1985-04-13) *
DATABASE WPI Derwent Publications Ltd., London, GB; AN 1984227814 XP002151334 & JP 59 134706 A (KOBAYASHI KOSE), 2. August 1984 (1984-08-02) *
DATABASE WPI Derwent Publications Ltd., London, GB; AN 1995220742 XP002151333 & JP 07 133217 A (NOEVIR), 23. Mai 1995 (1995-05-23) *
DATABASE WPI Derwent Publications Ltd., London, GB; AN 1999005165 XP002151335 & JP 10 279485 A (NISSHIN OIL MILLS), 2. Oktober 1998 (1998-10-02) *
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002007681A2 (fr) * 2000-07-21 2002-01-31 Lyles Mark B Formulations d'ecrans solaires contenant des acides nucleiques
WO2002007681A3 (fr) * 2000-07-21 2002-06-20 Mark B Lyles Formulations d'ecrans solaires contenant des acides nucleiques
US6890912B2 (en) 2000-07-21 2005-05-10 Mark B. Lyles Sunscreen formulations containing nucleic acids

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FR2804602B1 (fr) 2004-11-19
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FR2804602A1 (fr) 2001-08-10

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