WO2001045652A1

WO2001045652A1 - Use of nanoscale hair colorants

Info

Publication number: WO2001045652A1
Application number: PCT/EP2000/012651
Authority: WO
Inventors: Hermann Hensen; Anke Eggers; Jörg KAHRE; Axel Böttcher
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg
Priority date: 1999-12-22
Filing date: 2000-12-13
Publication date: 2001-06-28
Also published as: DE19961938A1

Abstract

The use of nanoscale hair colorants, with a particle diameter in the range of 10 to 500 nm for production of hair colorant preparations is disclosed.

Description

Use of nanoscale hair dyes

The invention is in the field of nanoparticles and relates to the use of nanoscale hair dyes for the production of hair dye preparations.

State of the art

Preparations which are used for dyeing and caring for the hair generally contain one or more surface-active substances, in particular based on anionic or amphoteric surfactants. The sole use of surfactants in hair dye preparations, e.g. Creams of the oil-in-water type, however, would dry out the hair, so that caring substances are usually added. However, there is still a need to provide hair dye preparations which provide even greater protection of the hair during dyeing and further counteract the damage to the hair structure by dyeing processes with good skin tolerance. These preparations should also be characterized by good stability even when stored at high temperatures.

The effect of hair colors is always related to the speed with which the compounds are incorporated or absorbed. There is still considerable room for improvement in the available state-of-the-art materials. The object of the invention was therefore to accelerate the absorption of hair colors in their application by providing new forms of offer. Furthermore, after use, they should damage the hair less but stabilize it and thus help maintain the hair structure. These forms of preparation should also have good dermatological compatibility and be characterized by good stability when stored at high temperatures.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of nanoscale hair dyes with particle diameters in the range from 10 to 500 nm for the production of hair dye preparations.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the absorption of hair dyes by the keratin fibrils of the hair can be significantly increased if they are in the form of nanoparticles, ie particles with a diameter in the range from 10 to 500, preferably 50 to 300 and in particular 100 to 150 nm available. Furthermore, the stability of lotions and creams as well as their consistency is significantly improved by the addition of nanoscale hair dyes. Lead beyond Ren such mixtures to a reduced damage to the hair structure and thus contribute to the maintenance of the hair structure.

hair dyes

Direct hair dyes, e.g. from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as e.g. under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Biue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9 R known compounds and 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2 , 3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, (N-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethyl) aminobenzene and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride. In addition, naturally occurring dyes such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, sapwood, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root can also be added to the emulsions.

In addition to direct drawing agents, oxidation dyes consisting of developer and coupler components can also be added to the emulsions. Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are examples of developer components used. Special representatives include p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino- pyrazolone-5 and 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1, 4-aminobenzene and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine. M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazones, m-aminophenols and pyridine derivatives are generally used as coupler components. Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1, 5-, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol , 2-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine and 2,6-diaminopyridine.

With regard to other dye components, reference is expressly made to the Colipa list, published by the Industry Association for Personal Care and Detergents, Frankfurt. An overview of suitable dyes can also be found in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. surfactants

The agents according to the invention can contain anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as preferred auxiliaries and additives. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymethyl sulfate ether sulfates, hydroxymethane sulfate ethers , mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid retauride, N-acylamino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates laspartate, acyl glutamates and acylations, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular vegetable Wheat-based products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. The proportion of surfactants in the compositions can be 0.1 to 10 and preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparations.

oil components

The agents according to the invention can contain preferred auxiliaries and additives from 0.5 to 25 and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight of oil body. As oil bodies, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, oleate Myristylisostearat, myristyl, oleate Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearyiisostearat, stearyl oleate, Stearyibehenat, Stearylerucat, isostearyl , isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, Oleyloieat, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl cylpalmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Cιo fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched en Cδ- C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Hydrocarbons such as squalane and squalene can also be used as the oil body.

Polymeric thickeners

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair dye preparations according to the invention further contain, as auxiliaries and additives, polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, Carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, further higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerols, esters of fatty acids such as polyols Pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride. The polymers can be used in amounts of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the preparations.

Manufacture of nanoparticles

A method for the production of nanoparticles by rapid relaxation of supercritical solutions (Rapid Expansion of Supercritical Solutions RESS) is, for example, from the article by S.Chihlar, M.Türk and K. Schaber in Proceedings World Congress on Particle Technology 3, Brigh- ton, known in 1998. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, nanoscale hair dye preparations are used, which are obtained by

(a) dissolving the starting materials in a suitable solvent under supercritical or near-critical conditions,

(b) the fluid mixture is expanded into a vacuum, gas or liquid via a nozzle, and

(c) the solvent evaporates at the same time.

In order to prevent the nanoparticles from caking again, it is advisable to dissolve the starting materials in the presence of suitable protective colloids or emulsifiers and / or to relax the critical solutions in aqueous and / or alcoholic solutions of the protective colloids or emulsifiers or in cosmetic oils, which in turn can contain dissolved emulsifiers and / or protective colloids. Suitable protective colloids are e.g. Gelatin, casein, gum arabic, lysalbic acid, starch and polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyalkylene glycols and polyacrylates. The preferred nanoscale hair dyes to be used are therefore those that are encased in a protective colloid and / or an emulsifier. The protective colloids or emulsifiers are usually used in amounts of 0.1 to 20, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the hair dyes.

Evaporation technology offers another suitable method for producing the nanoscale particles. Here, the starting materials are first dissolved in a suitable organic solvent (for example alkanes, vegetable oils, ethers, esters, ketones, acetals and the like). The solutions are then added to water or another non-solvent, optionally in the presence of a surface-active compound dissolved therein, so that the homogenization of the two immiscible solvents leads to precipitation of the nanoparticles, the organic solvent preferably evaporating. Instead of an aqueous solution, O / W emulsions or OΛV microemulsions can also be used. The emulsifiers and protective colloids already explained at the beginning can be used as surface-active compounds. Another possibility for producing nanoparticles is the so-called GAS process (Gas Anti Solvent Recrystallization). The process uses a highly compressed gas or supercritical fluid (eg carbon dioxide) as a non-solvent for the crystallization of solutes. The compressed gas phase is introduced into the primary solution of the starting materials and absorbed there, as a result of which the liquid volume increases, the solubility decreases and finely divided particles are separated out. The PCA method (Precipitation with a Compressed Fluid Anti-Solvent) is similarly suitable. Here the primary solution of the starting materials is introduced into a supercritical fluid, whereby finely divided droplets form in which diffusion processes take place, so that the finest particles are precipitated. In the PGSS process (Particles from Gas Saturated Solutions), the starting materials are melted by injecting gas (e.g. carbon dioxide or propane). print and temperature reach near or supercritical conditions. The gas phase dissolves in the solid and causes a lowering of the melting temperature, the viscosity and the surface tension. When expanding through a nozzle, cooling effects lead to the formation of very fine particles.

Industrial applicability

Compared to hair dye preparations of the prior art, the particular fine particle size of the particles results in increased stability and consistency of the preparations. The amount of hair dyes used is usually on the order of 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 3 and in particular 1 to 2% by weight, based on the preparations.

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

The hair dye preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W creams which, as additional auxiliaries and additives, contain co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, preservatives, Solubilizers, complexing agents, reducing agents, alkalizing agents, antioxidants, perfume oils and the like can contain.

The surfactants contained in the compositions can also serve as emulsifiers in the final preparations. In addition, other surfactants or co-emulsifiers can also be added to the hair dye preparations, such as:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group;

(2) C 12.18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimer isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; (8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside ) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,

(13) polyalkylene glycols and

(14) Glycerol carbonate.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12 / 18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Cβ-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Particularly preferred is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -Sθ3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 i8-acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaaminohydroxypropyldiethyientriamin (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described, for example, in FR 2252840 A and the latter in FR 2252840 A Polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C- 17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, Vinyiacetat / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxyproyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyimethacrylate / vinylcaprolactam and derivatized cell polymers as well as derivatized terpolymers.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkyl waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used as stabilizers. Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyiglucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine;

• Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thio dipropionate, distearyl thio propionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, Bu tioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, Vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Camosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajak- resin acid, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and their Derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbene and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and according to the invention suitable derivatives (salts, ^"esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these specified active ingredients.

EDTA, NTA, phosphonic acids, Triton B, turpinal and phenacetin can be used as complexing agents. Reducing agents such as ascorbic acid, sodium sulfate, sodium thiosulfate and the like may also be included. Ammonia, monoethanolamines, (L) - arginine, AMP etc. can be used as alkalizing agents.

Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexyl benzylatepylpropionate, allyl cyclohexyl propyl pionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances that work together generate an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandinol. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linolool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin amine oil, cycloaluminol oil, orange lanolin oil, orange lanolin oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscat Sage Oil, ß-Damascone, Geranium Oil Bourbon,

Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate are used alone or in mixtures.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be prepared in a manner known per se, ie for example by hot, cold, hot-hot / cold or PIT emulation. This is a purely mechanical process, there is no chemical reaction.

Examples

To produce the nanoscale hair dyes (Examples 1 to 3), carbon dioxide was first taken from a reservoir at a constant pressure of 60 bar and cleaned over a column with an activated carbon and a molecular sieve packing. After liquefaction, the CO2 was compressed to the desired supercritical pressure p using a diaphragm pump at a constant flow rate of 3.5 l / h. The solvent was then brought to the required temperature T1 in a preheater and passed into an extraction column (steel, 400 ml) which was loaded with the hair dyes. The resulting supercritical, i.e. The fluid mixture was sprayed through a laser-drawn nozzle (length 830 μm, diameter 45 μm) at a temperature T2 into a plexiglass expansion chamber which contained a 4% by weight aqueous solution of an emulsifier or protective colloid. The fluid medium evaporated and the dispersed nanoparticles enclosed in the protective colloid remained. The process conditions and the mean particle size range (determined photometrically by the 3-WEM method) are given in Table 1 below.

Table 1 Nanoparticles

Hair dye preparations were prepared which contained the nanoscale hair dyes 1 and 3 and the comparative mixture V1. After applying these hair dye creams, a thermal analysis of the human hair (Alkinco 6634) was carried out to examine the hair structure. With the help of dynamic differential calorimetry (HP-DSC; FJ Wortmann et al., J. Appl. Polym. Sei. 1993, 48, pp. 137ff.), The transformation point of the treated hair sample can be compared to an untreated hair sample (HP-DSC = 152.5 ° C) can be measured. The stability was determined visually after storage over a period of 4 weeks at 40 ° C. by observing the turbidity (+ = turbid; - = free of turbidity). The results are summarized in Table 2: Table 2

Effect of nanoscale O / W hair color creams on the hair and stability of the creams - quantities as% by weight

active substance

Claims

claims

1. Use of nanoscale hair dyes with particle diameters in the range from 10 to 500 nm for the production of hair dye preparations.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that direct dyes and / or oxidation dyes are used.

3. Use according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are also used.

4. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that oil components which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22- are also used. Fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Cιo fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of C∑-Ci ∑-Dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols, dialkyl ethers, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

5. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that polymeric thickeners are also used.

6. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that nanoscale hair dyes are used, which are obtained by

(b) the fluid mixture is expanded into a vacuum, gas or liquid via a nozzle, and (c) the solvent evaporates at the same time.

7. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that nanoparticles are used which are encased by a protective colloid.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that polyvinyl alcohol or polyethylene glycol is used as the protective colloid.

9. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that one uses the hair dyes in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% - based on the preparations.